Gioielli, Jewelry, Joaillerie, Joyas, Jewelen

Anello trilogy di De Beers

Tiffany ring, mystery setting and trilogy

in da sapere




The three techniques of jewelry that you absolutely must know if you do not want to make bad figures. The first is … ♦

There are jewels that have marked an era. Which have been copied, imitated, and made famous by famous people. In short, milestones in the history of jewelry that you absolutely must know. They are those jewels that have been made with a technique or a form that you must know, if you do not want to make fools. We have selected three of the many jewelery stages.

1 The Tiffany frame

Invented in 1866 by Charles Tiffany and his team of gemologists, it soon became an industrial standard for engagement rings: six platinum spikes (claws) that like claws sprout from the base of the ring and support it in an almost invisible way. to reflect the maximum of light. The traditional alternative, which is still used, is the ring with four jaws. The six brands, however, can be smaller and thinner, so as to bring out the stone and lock it more accurately. Simple, but brilliant.

Disegno montatura Tiffany anello con diamante
Disegno montatura Tiffany anello con diamante
Anello con solitario montato a griffe Tiffany
Anello con solitario montato a griffe Tiffany

2 The invisible mystery setting

Patented by Van Cleef & Arperls in 1933, it consists of cutting small parallel grooves along the stone belts downwards and placing them one by one on a gold or platinum net. In practice, it is the gem itself to be inserted into this structure and to hold the nearby stone, with an interlocking game that can be worth even 300 hours of work for a pin. The system is mainly used for rubies and sapphires, while the emerald with its inclusions makes this operation rather risky because it could disintegrate if cut badly. Only in 1990 was this setting developed for diamonds. But today’s advanced techniques with software modeling make this process economically prohibitive, not only for the cost of labor, but also for excessive waste material. Despite this, the mystery setting style is still used by masters of jewelry, such as Jar.

Bracciale con rubini e diamanti con tecnica mystery setting di Van Cleef & Arpels
Bracciale con rubini e diamanti con tecnica mystery setting di Van Cleef & Arpels

Spilla Van Cleef & Arpels, zaffiri Mistery setting e pavé di diamanti rotondi

3 The Trilogy ring

In this case it is not a patent or a special technique, but one of the most successful marketing campaigns in the industry: the three diamonds mounted on jaws or set on a faith were certainly not new, but in 1990 De Beers proposed with an advertising campaign created by the American agency JW Thompson. The slogan was: “present, past, future”, declined in about 2000 advertising films and remained in the minds of consumers, so much so that all the jewelers of the wedding segment were pushed to keep a similar model in their catalog.

Anello trilogy di De Beers
Anello trilogy di De Beers

Anello trilogy in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello trilogy in oro bianco e diamanti di Damiani







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