Jewelry, fashion and environmental awareness: Robert Buchbauer, great-great grandson of the founder of Swarovky, on the occasion of the opening of the new flagship store in Milan, tells Corriere della Sera about the diversification strategy of the group he manages. Here is the interview By Enrica Roddolo.
«Swaroski is now in the hands of the fourth and fifth generation and the fact that it has remained a family business is the best guarantee of our commitment to perpetuating the fantastic pioneering spirit of the origins. In all respects it is part of our DNA, crystal has always been in my life», explains Robert Buchbauer to Corriere. Yes, he really grew up on «bread and crystal»: great-great grandson of Daniel Swarovski, the founder (in 1895)) of the Wattens dynasty in Austrian Tyrol, he is CEO of the consumer goods business (90% of turnover) and sits on the Swarovski executive committee. Buchbauer is the advocate of the road that is bringing the “swan” from Tyrol to the world of jewelry, with gems and precious metals. There are about a hundred heirs to this family business worth 2.33 billion euros, but the heart of the business is in the hands of just a handful. Who meet in family councils, for strategic decisions.
Mr Buchbauer, jewelry but also fashion. Is it the crystal trend that is crossing fashion that has helped “the swan” to diversify, or vice versa?
“Trends come and go, and just as it is necessary to support them in a timely manner, it is then necessary to know how to go beyond them. In any case, many collaborations, since the 1920s with Chanel, Schiapparelli and then Dior, have never stopped”.
Marilyn Monroe was also dressed in Swarovski crystals, while she sang Happy Birthday for J.F. Kennedy (1962). How have you maintained the uniqueness of your crystals when low-cost copies are the order of the day?
«If you look closely at the copy it is easy to discover how an imitation is only capable of capturing a style, not quality or finishing. And this is where our know-how makes the difference. Those who enter one of our 2,480 stores know that they will find quality pieces, even if they range from accessible prices to more exclusive objects. Obviously, we are committed to pursuing counterfeiting attempts that represent a threat to the seriousness of the group or a potential damage to our brand reputation.
And what surprises does the new flagship in Milan have in store?
«The Crystal Forest architecture offers a memorable shopping experience. In addition, the Milan store bears witness to Swaroski’s “sustainable” commitment. We did the first experiment in Dam Square in Amsterdam. The store has had the Led (Leadership in energy and environmental design) Platinum certification, it is the first Platinum certified jewelry store in Europe».
