In the first half of December, in Paris, Christie’s presented the sales of Joaillerie Paris, with almost 250 lots. The auction was successful: against an overall estimate of 5.2 million euros, jewels worth almost 8.2 million were sold. There were three key themes of the jewels on sale, which included the major brands of the Place Vendôme Maisons: bestiary and totem animals, flowers as an inexhaustible source of inspiration and precious pearls as an invitation to travel. The piece that achieved the highest price was a 6.57 carat round brilliant diamond ring, D color, IF clarity in 18k white gold. It was sold for 352,800 euros.
A pair of earrings by Vam Cleef &n Arpels with cushion and oval antique-cut rubies, round, pear-shaped and marquise-cut diamonds, platinum and 18-carat white gold was sold for 100,800 euros. Suzanne Belperron signed broche with pear-cut sapphires, old-cut diamonds, 18k yellow gold, circa 1955-1970, found a buyer for 22,680 euros. A Van Cleef & Arpels brooch with round and pear-shaped, pear-shaped, marquise, round emeralds and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum and 18-karat white gold sold for 151,200 euros.
A ruby shines with Pandolfini
The late autumn auctions of Pandolfini jewels and watches in Florence, held in the historic Palazzo Ramirez Montalvo, closed with a total hammer price of 3.4 million euros. There are two catalogues, with over 350 lots of jewelery and watches. During the first day, dedicated to jewels, an openwork band ring in yellow gold and diamonds with an oval-cut Burmese ruby was sold for 182,700 euros, which more than doubled its high estimate of 80,000 euros.
In a moment of global political uncertainty like the one we are experiencing today, luxury objects remain highly coveted, safe haven assets in which to continue investing.
Cesare Bianchi, head of the Jewelery and Watches department
Among the colored stones at auction that particularly attracted the attention of foreign collectors, a ring with a round-cut Burmese sapphire and diamonds reached 57,960 euros. And a Tulle bracelet by Buccellati in woven mesh in silver and gold found a buyer for 78,120 euros. Excellent performances also for the solitaire ring with old-cut diamond, sold for 60,480 euros, which is accompanied by the Panther-shaped bracelet from Frascarolo sold for 17,640 euros. Clocks also attracted attention on November 30th. It was the sporty and steel models that attracted the most interest, with particular reference to the most recent Rolex models. A steel and gold Rolex Daytona from 1990 sold for 30,240 euros. While a Patek Philippe Nautilus with a monobloc steel case exceeded expectations, reaching 88,200 euros. The Cartier Tank Cintree from the 1920s with a rectangular case reached 40,320 euros.
Diamonds and colors in Christie’s Magnificent Jewels
Christie’s pre-Christmas Magnificent Jewels are back. During the same period as the live sale, which will take place at Rockefeller Center in New York City on December 6, is the Jewels Online sale, which will be open for bidding from November 28 to December 8. The period for selling and purchasing jewelery is the most favorable of the year. Furthermore, Magnificent Jewels is the last live auction of the year.
At the center of the catalogue, the offer of white and colored diamonds stands out. In particular, the California Sunset Diamonds, with a rare pair of vivid yellow-orange fancy diamonds of 12.20 and 11.96 carats (estimate $7,000,000–12,000,000). Other notable lots include an 8.91-carat Kashmir sapphire ring by Tiffany & Co. (700,000 – 1,000,000), a 7.31-carat Burmese Ruby and Diamond ring (1,000,000 – 2,000,000) and a Colombian emerald ring of 9.13 carats (200,000 – 300,000).
In addition to precious stones, which are a coveted investment asset, the sale features designer jewelry from manufacturers such as Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Graff, Harry Winston, Jean Schlumberger, Oscar Heyman & Brothers, René Boivin, Tiffany & Co. , Van Cleef & Arpels and Verdura.
Additionally, the Magnificent Jewels auction will feature pieces from the Adolphus Andrews, Jr. and Emily Taylor Andrews Collection, the Margaret Thompson Biddle Collection, the Ivan and Genevieve Reitman Collection, the Julian and Josephine Robertson Collection and property of a Palm Beach’s illustrious collection, including a 42.97-carat Graff diamond ring (est. $500,000 – $700,000).
The sale includes a Reclining Lion brooch by René Boivin (est. 300,000 – 500,000) from the collection of Julian and Josephine Robertson. The lion is one of the House’s most recognizable motifs: the brooch is set with diamonds of various shapes in multicolored hues and an emerald mane and, according to Christie’s, represents an opportunity for collectors to acquire an extremely rare and important example of this iconic design.
Additionally, the sale will showcase signed jewels from the Margaret Thompson Biddle collection, which includes a Cartier emerald, diamond and ruby brooch with cut emeralds, cabochon rubies and diamonds circa 1945 (200,000-300,000) and an Art Deco Chaumet tiara (50,000 – 70,000). Another highlight comes from the Ivan & Genevieve Reitman: A Life in Pictures collection, a 12.03-carat deep yellow diamond ring (100,000-150,000) and a 9.37-carat diamond ring (250,000-$350,000).
The highlights of the collection will be in Hong Kong from November 23rd to 27th. The sales will be on display in New York from December 1st to December 5th.
Rare Kashmir sapphire for Dorotheum
A rare Kashmir sapphire of 13,963 carats, estimated at between 200,000 and 400,000 euros. It is the star of the next Dorotheum jewelery auction scheduled for November 30, 2023. The gem is part of that small number of sapphires mined for a few years at the end of the 19th century in the Kishtwar district, India, at an altitude of 5000 metres. Soon the sapphire mines ran out. Kashmir sapphires are also particularly sought after for this reason: in addition to their exceptional quality, with a special shade of blue, they are the rarest in the world.
Furthermore, the sapphire up for auction at Dorotheum is particularly heavy: almost 14 carats. Set in a bracelet, it comes from the ownership of a family of high European nobility and is now being offered at auction for the first time. The appraisal carried out by the Swiss Gemological Institute in 2023 qualifies the color of the stone offered as blue of strong saturation. Its transparency is particularly impressive thanks to the simplicity of the cabochon cut. The auction also includes a wide selection of solitaires with high-carat diamonds and colored stones, for a total of 238 selected jewels, with jewels from brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Chopard.
Also interesting is the watch auction on 1 December 2023, in which over 300 pieces can be purchased. The standout timepiece of the auction is the Il Destriero Scafusia by IWC: an extremely rare and refined wristwatch with perpetual calendar and moon phase, double chronograph, minute repeater and tourbillon, with a gold case, estimated at between 60,000 and 90,000 euros . This flagship of the wristwatch auction was produced in 1993 to mark IWC’s 125th anniversary in a limited edition of 125 pieces.
Sold out for Habsburg jewels
The Habsburg court still arouses great fascination. Thus, after weeks of touring around the world, Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection has arrived at auction at Sotheby’s Geneva. Result: 100% of lots sold, with over 82% above the high estimate. The collection brought in over 9.6 million Swiss francs, exceeding its estimate by more than three times.
The extraordinary collection included 207 lots of jewels spanning two centuries of European and noble history, which appeared at auction for the first time. Sotheby’s collaborated with Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH to bring this collection to auction.
Rediscovered earlier this year in a German bank safe, the most important and largest collection of Viennese imperial and royal jewels ever put up for auction boasted provenance from all the most important European royal houses linked to the Austrian dynasty of Habsburg, offering an extraordinary journey through the jewels of the lives of Central Europe’s most influential ruling families during the 19th and early 20th centuries.
The top lot was Biedermann’s Devant-de-Corsage with the spectacular natural pearl and diamond, which reached 1 million francs (against a high estimate of 450,000). The unsigned mid-19th century garnet parure comprising a tiara, necklace and three stud earrings, after a flurry of bidding, sold for 88,900 crabs (over 25 times its high estimate).
The auction was also a celebration of the two best Austrian jewelers of the 19th century, Emil Biedermann and Köchert, who produced jewelery mainly for the court. Köchert still trades today. With the reemergence of the collection after decades safely hidden, the magnificence of their exquisitely crafted creations was on display during this sale, capturing the interest of dozens of bidders and winning many lots.
The Bleu Royal diamond sold for 44 million
Record for Bleu Royal, a diamond which was sold for 44 million dollars at Christie’s in Geneva and thus becomes the most expensive jewel sold at auction in 2023. The bidding lasted 7 minutes, after which the diamond entered another private collection, for the first time after 40 years. The Magnificent Jewels auction totaled $77.7 million (72.5 million euros) and welcomed bidders from 37 countries, selling 9.3% by lot and 98% by value. And overall, Christie’s Autumn Luxury Week totaled $139.9 million.
Other successful jewels were an 8.77-carat modified brilliant-cut rectangular fancy intense pink diamond, sold for 5.2 million dollars, a 21.88-carat cushion-cut Burmese ruby sold for 2.6 million, a brilliant cut heart diamond, color F, worth 55.75 carats, found a buyer at 2.6 million, while another brilliant cut heart diamond, color D, weighing 30.02 carats, was sold for 1.7 million.
The watches also did well, totaling 62 million dollars (57.7 million euros) with 94% of lots sold in both sales. Eight watches have sold over 1 million francs and two watches have sold over 5 million francs. In this case the top pieces were La Grande & Petite Sonnerie No.1 by Philippe Dufour, made in two and a half years, for 5.7 million dollars, the Rolex ref. 1675 GMT Master worn by Marlon Brando in the film Apocalypse Now and personalized by Brando by hand engraving his name on the case back, sold for 5.1 million. The George Daniels Anniversary No. 00 in platinum, which sold for 2 million, commemorates the 35th anniversary of Daniels’ invention of the coaxial escapement.
There are jewels that remain forever matched to those who wore them. This is the case of the choker that Audrey Hepburn sported in the final scene in the film Roman Holiday, one of the films that suggested to the world that Italians live la dolce vita (it’s not like that, but never mind). In any case, the pearl and sapphire necklace that the British actress wore on the set of William Wyler’s film (it was 1953) was auctioned online by Christie’s in the sale that lasts until November 16th.
The necklace is signed by Moric Fürst, a jeweler of Austro-Hungarian origin, but who moved to Turin (Italy) in 1850, and then opened jewelry stores in Rome, Genoa and Milan. After the war, Fürst was appreciated by royal families and Hollywood celebrities. In the film Audrey Hepburn played the part of a princess. Christie’s online auction includes another 272 lots, with jewels from famous houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Boucheron, precious stones and gold nuggets.
Jewelry and watches with FaraoneCasa d’Aste
The now traditional end-of-year auction organized by Faraone Casa d’Aste, an expression of the Milanese jewelery company, is back. For November 27, this year at the Portrait Milano hotel, 307 lots of jewelery and watches from brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Bulgari, David Webb, Frascarolo, as well as luxury bags will be on sale. Participation is also possible in streaming mode, through the dedicated Myfaraone App, via telephone or through written offers.
The session dedicated to jewelery presents a selection of lots signed David Webb from a private collection and composed of various rings, in yellow gold decorated with diamonds and enamel, and a sautoir. It is flanked by a series of precious pieces by Bulgari, among which stand out a Tubogas bracelet from the Monete collection, late 1980s, with Gallia Massalia silver coins, a Pyramid pendant in topaz with necklace, earrings from the Nuvola collection, various rings and an open bangle in yellow gold and steel.
Other jewels from Maison such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, Cartier, Pomellato, Sabbadini and Faraone. Niche jewels are those of a Parure Frascarolo set in yellow gold, enamel and diamonds with an animalier theme, composed of a sautoir, bracelet convertible into a brooch or pendant, lighter and lipstick holder. Among the other jewels in the auction, a GIA-certified 6.79-carat Fancy Yellow emerald-cut diamond ring and a 4.23-carat oval-cut diamond ring stand out.
The top lots for watches will be Rolex and Patek Philippe. Like the Daytona Cosmograph Big Red 6263 latest reference with Valijoux 727 manual winding movement, silver dial, steel case and oyster bracelet, screw pushers and additional original steel bezel, which allows whoever owns it to transform it into a 6265 model; complete with box and guarantee and in the hands of the same owner since 1986. There are two Patek Philippe: one is the Ellipse ref:3598, rare in this more oval shape of the 18k yellow gold case, with crocodile strap and original gold pin buckle, with ultra plat 16250 movement, the thinnest ever made by the Swiss Maison complete with original case. The other is a Golden Ellipse ref 3585 with a more square shape, with an 18k yellow gold case. Also under the Patek Philippe brand, for sale is a Gondolo ref 5009, like the previous ones in perfect condition, with box and papers, yellow gold case, crocodile strap and original pin buckle. The selection of watches also continues with a rare Vacheron Constantin Malte Hispahan collection in 18k yellow gold with a full diamond bracelet, complete with original box and archive extract.
The Blue Royal diamond at Christie’s
It has a French name and certainly blue blood: the Bleu Royal diamond will be the highlight of the next Magnificent Jewels auction on November 7 at Christie’s in Geneva. It is a big diamond for being among the few with the color of the sea: it weighs 17.61 carats and is the largest Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Blue gem ever to appear for sale in the history of auctions. The gem has been cut and polished into a perfectly symmetrical pear shape. The diamond, which boasts an intense, vivid blue color and impeccable clarity, is among the rarest ever found. The estimate is between 35 and 50 million dollars. Bleu Royal has been part of an important private collection for 50 years now and it is the first time that the stone, set in a ring, will be put up for sale at auction.
This is a true miracle of nature. Throughout our 257-year history, Christie’s has had the privilege of offering the world’s rarest gems at auction, and Bleu Royal continues this tradition. We are proud to offer collectors the opportunity to own a diamond fit for a king.
Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewelery at Christie’s
Driven by collector demand and an increasingly limited supply, prices for high-quality colored diamonds have increased exponentially in recent years. In auction rooms, Fancy Vivid Blue diamonds over 10 carats are virtually unknown: in over 250 years of auction history at Christie’s, only three of these stones have ever appeared for sale:
• The 10.95-carat Bulgari Blue sold for $15.7 million in New York in October 2010
• The 13.22-carat Winston Blue, sold for $23.8 million in Geneva in May 2014
• The 14.62-carat Oppenheimer Blue, sold for $57.5 million in Geneva in May 2016
The Magnificent Jewels at Sotheby’s in Geneva
Sotheby’s successfully closed the sale of Fine Jewels & Watches in Milan, exceeding the high pre-auction estimate (2.3-3.6 million) and reaching 4 million, the second highest total for a sale of this type at Sotheby’s Italy. More than two-thirds of the lots sold at prices above the highest estimates, with bidders from 36 countries across Europe, Asia, the United States, South America and the Middle East, in particular from Italy, the United States, Hong Kong, the United Kingdom, China and France. The top lot was a 9.38-carat diamond ring by Sabbadini from 1970, which sold for 190,500 euros (high estimate of 80,000).
The auction house is now preparing for the sale of Magnificent Jewels in Geneva (8 November), preceded by the Noble Jewels on 6-7 November The piece with the highest estimate is a fancy deep yellow diamond ring, called The Love Stone, prong set weighing 103.62 carats. The estimate comes to 6.6 million Swiss francs. An emerald and diamond necklace with an asymmetrical design, composed of two rows of alternating brilliant-cut diamonds, emeralds and step-cut diamonds, with terminals in trilliant-cut diamonds measuring approximately 440 millimeters in length, sees a maximum estimate of 2.54 million francs Swiss. Another necklace by Adler, with Paraíba tourmaline and diamonds, called La Laguna Blu, is also very popular.
Bolaffi auction with 726 jewels
Quality jewels at auction in Turin. The Bolaffi headquarters will host the first major autumn sale in Italy on Thursday 12 and 13 October, in person but also online. Also because there are many lots for sale: 726, including rare and antique jewels from an important Lombard collection and private contributions, as well as creations by designers who have marked the history of Italian fashion, such as Missoni, Versace, Lancetti and Roberta of Camerino.
In the first session, among the top lots stand out the pendant earrings in diamonds and natural pearls by Bulgari (lot 386), which start from a starting price of 25,000 euros. From the same maison, a rare pair of 18K yellow gold bracelets with wavy linear elements (lot 385) and a precious rose gold watch bracelet, with fan-shaped links adorned with diamonds. Also up for auction are jewels by Buccellati, Cartier, Pomellato, Van Cleef & Arpels as well as several lots of diamonds of various carats and cuts.
Among the ancient jewels, two eighteenth-century devant de corsage stand out: one made of yellow gold and emeralds (lot 276), the other in embossed yellow gold and adorned with rose-cut diamonds (lot 277) similar to the one preserved at the Metropolitan in New York. Also up for auction is a precious archaeological style choker, with semiprecious stone carvings (lot 85) and a diamond and pink conch pearl brooch (lot 94). Also of interest are the sapphire and diamond clip earrings from the 1940s (lot 97) and the unheated diamond and blue sapphire bracelet from Sri Lanka (lot 98). The second part of the auction takes place online on Friday 13th and is made up of 340 lots of vintage jewels ranging from the 19th and 20th centuries.
The lots will be exhibited to the public on Tuesday 3 and Wednesday 4 October 2023 (10-13/14-18) at the Sala Bolaffi (Turin, V.Cavour 17) and from Saturday 7 to Wednesday 11 October 2023 (10-18) at ‘Hotel Four Seasons (Milan, V. Gesù 6).
Habsburg jewels up for auction with Sotheby’s
For lovers of jewels belonging to royal families, November 6 and 7 presents a great opportunity: Sotheby’s is auctioning in Geneva a private collection of jewels from royal houses linked to the Austrian Habsburg dynasty. The auction is entitled Vienna 1900: an imperial and royal collection and precedes the classic Magnificent Jewels sale scheduled for November 8th. The blue-blooded collection includes more than 200 jewels which, according to what has been disclosed, were recently rediscovered hidden in a bank vault. A somewhat mysterious origin, in short. In any case, according to Sotheby’s the sale represents the most impressive set of Viennese royal jewels ever offered at auction.
This collection is undoubtedly the most important auction of Noble Jewels after the historic auction of the Royal Jewels of the Bourbon-Parma Family, held by Sotheby’s in Geneva four years ago. The collection is truly exceptional and boasts a unique combination of magnificent ceremonial court jewelry worn by women of Europe’s elite and royal families, as well as a major assemblage of men’s dress accessories, watches, cigarette cases and objets de vertu.
Andres White Correal, Vice President and Senior Director of Jewelery at Sotheby’s
The collection on sale also has historical importance: it also testifies to the jewelry trends and styles embodied by the Houses of Habsburg, Bourbon-Parma, Bourbon-Two Sicilies and Saxe-Coburg-Gotha. The auction catalog lists jewels from the collections of Archduchess Margherita Sofia of Austria (1870-1902), Archduchess Maria Immacolata of Austria-Tuscany (1878-1968), Archduchess Maria Teresa of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927), Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria (1861-1948), and Princess Maria Luisa of Bourbon-Parma (1870-1899). The centerpiece appears to be a bodice ornament that belonged to Archduchess Maria Theresa of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927), in natural pearls and diamonds, received as a wedding gift in 1865. Also on sale are pieces such as the Pearl Tiara natural and diamond stars created by Viennese court jeweler Köchert and a suite of three diamond stars that can be worn as brooches, hairpins or on a tiara frame.
As always, the Artcurial auction house organizes auctions in the middle of summer. And, as always, they are aimed at those who frequent the Côte d’Azur. In the Principality of Monaco, at the Hotel Hermitage in Montecarlo, auctions of watches and jewelery are scheduled from 16 to 19 July, as well as Hermès Vintage, and sculpture. Each sale will be preceded by an exhibition open to the general public.
The Horlogerie de Collection auction will feature iconic pieces and particularly rare vintage watches. The catalog includes a Panda version of the famous Rolex Daytona, with a cream dial and black counters, a vintage piece from 1968, ref. 6239, in excellent condition, today almost impossible to find on the market. Also on sale is a Speedmaster model by Omega made especially for the Raid, the elite unit of the French police. This edition was designed in 2018 by the Parisian watchmaker Antoine de Macedo in collaboration with Omega. In 2021, again at an Artcurial auction, a similar watch was sold in favor of police orphans for the sum of 70,000 euros. Also for watches there is a brand like Jaeger LeCoultre and his Reverso, the company’s best-seller for over 90 years, which is part of a private collection, belonging to a fan of the genre. The collection includes ten original Reversos, such as a rare enamelled model, created by Jaeger LeCoultre in 2003 in collaboration with the Portuguese artist José de Guimarães.
A second piece, produced in 1996 in a limited edition of 25, features an enamelled miniature of a painting inspired by the Czech painter Alfons Mucha. It is estimated at 12,000-18,000 euros. A Rolex/Comex Submariner ref. 16610 supplied to Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise de Marseille will likely be one of the most sought after dive watches of the sale. It is an interesting piece for any professional watch enthusiast.
For jewels, the catalog includes pieces from important jewelery houses such as Piaget, Chopard and Van Cleef & Arpels. Under the lens, jewels such as the Mauboussin Art Déco brooch in platinum, gold, carved emeralds and diamonds from 1930 (20,000-30,000 euros), or a platinum ring with a pear-cut diamond of 8.44 carats, certified Lfg, Color I, VVS2 purity, no fluorescence, type IIa (60,000-80,000 euros). Van Cleef & Arpels, on the other hand, presents, among other things, a platinum ribbon bracelet with sapphires and diamonds, around 1925 (25,000-30,000 euros).
For history buffs, but above all for British royals, Christie’s is on sale on 6 and 7 July in Bayreuth (Germany) a series of pieces that belonged to George III, King of Great Britain and Ireland between the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (1738-1820 ). Objects in silver and gold are on sale (201 lots in total), but also from a pendant containing a rare medallion commissioned by his wife, Queen Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz (1744-1818) married at 17, as a gift to friends who had remained faithful during King George III’s illness. Medallion made to celebrate the recovery of the king in 1789. Although, in reality, recovery was only a hope. The story of George William Frederick of Hanover, king from October 25, 1760 has been quite difficult.
Of German origin, he was also Duke of Brunswick-Lüneburg and Elector of Hanover. He was the third ruler of Great Britain of the House of Hanover, but the first to be born in England and to use English as his mother tongue. The problem is that in 1765 he started showing signs of insanity, which got worse over time. Perhaps a consequence of porphyria, a hereditary blood disease Or, according to others, the king fell ill eating sauerkraut cooked in lead pots, a poisonous metal. More recent analyzes have found a high concentration of arsenic on samples of the king’s hair. In any case, the king’s eldest son, George Augustus Frederick, Prince of Wales, ruled as regent for seven years from 1811 until his father’s death.
The locket, however, follows an announcement from Queen Charlotte that the king had recovered. Announcement greeted with celebrations and Parliament congratulating the King on 10 March, the date commemorated on the medallion. The medallion was presented by Queen Charlotte on 19 March 1789. It was later surmounted by an enamelled crown, encrusted with diamonds, rubies and emeralds.
Christie’s sells magnificent jewels for 62 million
The magnificent jewels of Christie’s in June totaled over 62 million dollars in New York. A result that the auction house considers exceptional. The sales concern The Magnificent Jewels of Anne Eisenhower, the collection of the woman who died in July 2022 and defined as a collector, philanthropist and icon of refinement, in addition to the usual appointment with the Magnificent Jewels. The two sales totaled precisely $62,252,390 and were sold at 117% by lower estimate of the range and 97% by value.
Anne Eisenhower’s Magnificent Jewels totaled $11.5 million, at 141% from its lowest estimate and 100% by value. The sale included a series of jewels from the most important houses. The top lot was the Jarretière ruby and diamond bracelet, purchased by Marlene Dietrich in 1937 and manufactured by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet realized a price tag of 4.5 million.
The Magnificent Jewels sale featured a mix of jewels from private collections, along with designer pieces from Cartier, Chaumet, Harry Winston, Jar, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, and Verdura. The auction totaled 50.7 million. The jewels sold at 112% by their lowest estimate and 96% by value. The top lot of the sale was The Light of Peace, which made 13.6 million.
A $25 million blue diamond. This is what an anonymous buyer paid over the phone for the Bulgari Laguna Blu, auctioned by Sotheby’s in Geneva. The sale of Magnificent Jewels totaled $85 million, the highest value since May 2018 at the Geneva Jewelery Sales. The 11.16-carat fancy-vivid blue diamond is now the largest blue diamond in a Bulgari jewel and the most valuable Bulgari gem ever offered for sale.
Created in 1970 by Bulgari as a ring, when Bulgari was emerging as the most influential and innovative Italian high jewelery house, diamond is a rarity: it is an 11.16-carat Fancy Vivid blue, among the rarest gems in the world, it is a Bulgari signed jewel, and is unmodified, meaning that its current cut, produced in 1970, could be further enhanced by modern cutting methods to unleash its full potential as a gem.
It has been a privilege to witness the glamorous and exciting journey of the Bulgari Blue Lagoon over the past few months, knowing it was first created in 1970, up until its most recent appearance at the Met Gala where it dazzled on the red carpet, set in a Bulgari custom made necklace worn by Priyanka Chopra Jones. So, it is a special moment to see the journey of this extraordinary gem take yet another new turn, this evening in our auction room, into the hands of its first new owner in over 50 years. The Blue Lagoon sale surpasses the outstanding performance of our Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale which saw exceptional colored gemstones, particularly emeralds and yellow diamonds, surpass their high estimates, so spectacularly. There is no doubt that the Fine jewelry of the highest quality can still fetch sky-high prices.
Olivier Wagner, Head of Jewellery, Sotheby’s Geneva
Sotheby’s Geneva’s auction saw over half (53.4%) of all lots sold above the high estimate and virtually all lots sold fetched prices within or above the estimates (97%).
The Bulgari Laguna Blu was auctioned last in the second session of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, following a series of spectacular sales of designer jewelery and exceptional gemstones. After a four-minute bidding battle between three telephone bidders and one bidder in the room, he finally found a buyer over the phone.
Colored gemstones, and especially colored designer jewelry, had a stellar night with nearly a quarter of all lots selling above already high estimates, led by sales of yellow ruby, emerald, sapphire and diamond jewelry and rose. For example, a Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Diamond ring was sold for $11.7 million, purchased by Diacore. The same company was awarded another Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond ring, for 1.3 million.
A super diamond for peace at Christie’s auction
In times when cannons sound instead of words, invoking peace is salutary. Even through a diamond. The Light of Peace Diamond, (estimate: $10-15 million) is a D-color, internally flawless, type IIa, pear-shaped brilliant cut diamond weighing 126.76 carats. The gem is the star of the Magnificent Jewels auction organized by Christie’s on June 7 in New York. The auction also includes jewels from private collections signed by Cartier, Chaumet, Harry Winston, Jar, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Verdura. The complete selection will be displayed before the sale as part of Christie’s New York Luxury Week from June 2 to June 6.
The Light of Peace Diamond, which is offered without reserve, was formerly known as the Zale Light of Peace, owned by Texan jewelers Zale Corporation of Dallas. The Zales family chose this name along with a fund for peace support missions alongside philanthropic donations. A portion of the proceeds from the sale will be donated by the current owners to the United States for UNHCR, the United Nations Refugee Agency.
More diamonds
In addition to the pacifist gem, the auction includes other diamonds, including a 3.10-carat fancy vivid blue diamond ring (estimate 4,200,000-5,200,000), a 50.40-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond pendant ( 700,000-1,200,000), and an elegant ring with a deep pink diamond weighing 4.01 carats (1,500,000-2,500,000). The colored gemstones are represented by a magnificent 71.27 carat Royal Blue Burmese sapphire set in a diamond pendant (3,000,000-5,000,000), a pair of Harry Winston emerald and diamond drop earrings (500,000- 700,000) and a Burmese ruby of 10.17 carats (400,000-600,000).
The sale features highlights from the collection of Adolphus Andrews, Jr. and Emily Taylor Andrews. The collection is rich in its variety, with an emphasis on color and original design, including an iconic mystery-set sapphire and diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels (250,000-350,000), reflecting the ingenious setting style of the Parisian house. Also featured in the sale is a selection of jewelry formerly from the collection of Betsey Cushing Whitney, the New York philanthropist and socialite known for her exceptional style and taste in her. Offered is a Van Cleef & Arpels Ruby, Emerald and Diamond Necklace and Earrings Set, circa 1970 (400,000-600,000).
Rothschilds and Greta Garbo
Also among the jewels for sale is an impressive Art Deco Chaumet emerald and diamond necklace (2,000,000-3,000,000) of the Rothschild family, including the late Baroness Edouard de Rothschild, the late Jacqueline de Rothschild Piatigorsky and the late Jephta Drachman (née Piatigorsky). The necklace was made especially for the family in 1930 and is well documented in the Chaumet archives.
On the other hand, seven jewels by Jar that have never before appeared at auction belong to an American collector. Unpublished such as Salvador Dalí’s Étoile De Mer brooch (1,000,000-1,500,000) from an important private collection and previously from the collection of Rebekah Harkness, recently exhibited at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City in 2021 and a Van Cleef & Arpels diamond ring (50,000-70,000) and a Van Cleef & Arpels diamond flower brooch (10,000-15,000) formerly from the collection of Greta Garbo.
The Christie’s auction will also include The Magnificent Jewels of Anne Eisenhower. The top lot of the sale is the iconic Jarretière ruby and diamond bracelet, purchased by Marlene Dietrich in 1937 from Van Cleef & Arpels (2,500,000-4,500,000). Additional highlights include a variety of magnificent jewels, including a rare Art Deco Diamond and Multi-Gem Moonlight Rose bracelet, by Tiffany & Co (500,000-700,000), an Art Deco Diamond Bangle by Cartier (150,000–250,000) as well as an important D-color diamond ring of 20.54 carats (1,200,000–1,800,000).
Up for auction at Christie’s 25 creations by Jar
The Jewels of a Legend, Jar: born in New York City in 1943, Joel Arthur Rosenthal graduated from Harvard with degrees in art history and philosophy before moving to Paris. And become a jewel artist. And Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction scheduled in Geneva on May 17 will offer the largest collection of Jar jewels ever to be auctioned. After working with Bulgari in New York, Jar returned to Paris, opening her own jewelry store with his partner, Pierre Jeannet, in 1977.
Jar produces at 7 Place Vendôme, Paris, only about 70 pieces a year, highly sought after by collectors, movie stars and lovers of original jewellery. Christie’s is offering 25 Jar creations, which will become the American designer’s largest collection ever to appear at auction, with pieces spanning 40 years of creativity. The collection has been built up over the last 15 years by a leading art and jewelery collector, who encountered Jar’s art twenty years ago during the major exhibition The Jewels of Jar, Paris which took place in London between 2002 and 2003 at Somerset House. Five years later the collector was able to acquire a first piece of jewelery from the master jeweler and after 15 years of collecting he decided to sell.
Joel Arthur Rosenthal pairs unusual gemstones with nontraditional materials. The quality of his work is reminiscent of 18th and 19th century jewelry. In 2013, Jar was the first living gem artist to be honored with a retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
Among the pieces on sale is a camellia brooch, which has become a signature design of Jar and embodies the extraordinary attention to detail, which pushes the boundaries between jewelery and sculpture, Also on sale are 15 pairs of earrings, including a third it is also inspired by nature, such as a pair of Geranium earrings in carved nephrite jade and diamonds or the iconic and delicate diamond ivy leaves earrings designed in 1991.
The large collections that belonged to wealthy owners, now disappeared, are one of the sources of jewelry auctions. Like the one scheduled for 10 and 12 May in Geneva under the banner of Christie’s. For sale is jewelry that belonged to Heidi Horten (1941-2022). Austrian billionaire and art collector, Heidi Horten was the wife (32 years younger) of Helmut Horten, founding founder of the German department store company of the same name. In May 2020, Forbes estimated her net worth at $3.0 billion. No wonder art and jewelery were Mrs. Horten’s passions.
Witness the pre-sale estimate of the collection: over 150 million. It is the largest and most valuable collection ever to be auctioned. Proceeds will help finance the Heidi Horten Estate foundation, established in 2020 to support the museum of modern and contemporary art she founded in Vienna, The Heidi Horten Collection, as well as medical research and other philanthropic endeavors.
The World of Heidi Horten is the collection of a lifetime. From Bulgari to Van Cleef & Arpels, from a small personal keepsake to the Briolette of India, this is a collector’s dream. Building on extraordinary early pieces she acquired in the 1970s and 1980s, Ms. Horten has continued to grow and curate her sophisticated collection, eloquently combining vintage and modern designs from the world’s leading jewelery houses that today represent some of the finest examples never to come to the market.
Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewelery at Christie
But let’s talk about the jewels. The most valuable pieces reported by Christie’s include Harry Winston’s 90-carat diamond Briolette of India necklace, originally sold by Cartier in 1909, a three-strand natural pearl necklace, also by Harry Winston, highlighted by a pink diamond clasp in the shape of a cushion of 11 carats (estimate 7-10 million dollars). Another top piece is the 25-carat Sunrise Ruby and Diamond ring by Cartier, pigeon’s blood color and exceptionally pure (estimate 15-20 million dollars). Also by the American jeweler are an exceptional diamond bracelet (estimate 5-7 million dollars) and The Great Mughal Emerald Pendant Necklace, again by Harry Winston (estimate 500,000-700,000 dollars).
Also noteworthy is a very important selection of Bulgari creations from the 1970s to today, which retraces more than fifty years of craftsmanship of the Italian Maison.
This is a historic moment for Christie’s, for the privilege of offering one of the world’s finest and most important jewelry collections from Europe. Furthermore, witnessing a philanthropic effort of this magnitude is as rare as it is extraordinary. Today, with the establishment of the Heidi Horten Foundation, the late Ms. Horten has created an important framework to ensure the functioning of her museum for decades to come, ensuring the enjoyment of the arts for aficionados around the world.
Anthea Peers, President Christie’s EMEA
Christie’s will present 400 of the 700 jewels in two live auctions at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva during Luxury Week this spring, as well as an online sale in May, followed by another online sale in November 2023. Part 1 of the The auction series will begin on Wednesday, May 10, followed by a live auction of Part II on Friday, May 12, 2023. The first online sale will open on May 3, running through May 15, followed by a second online sale in November offering the remaining jewels of the collection.
Diamonds and jewels up for auction with Bolaffi
About 500 lots with jewels from the nineteenth century to the present day and very diversified auction bases. This is what is included in the catalog of the spring auction of jewelery by Aste Bolaffi on March 28, scheduled in Milan, at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (via Andegari 9), while on March 29 it will be in live internet mode on the Aste Bolaffi. www.astebolaffi The sale is preceded by the exhibition open to the public from Friday 24 March until the day of the auction (Sunday excluded) at the Bolaffi headquarters (via Manzoni 7).
The selection of diamonds includes the top lots of the sale, including an unmounted 9-carat diamond, F color, VVS2 clarity, accompanied by a Gia certificate (lot 298, starting price 260,000 euros) and a diamond necklace of 36 total carats of exceptional color and purity (lot 297, base 65,000 euros). Also in the catalog are Tiffany, Bulgari, Cartier and Pomellato jewels and an interesting collection by Orisa Torino from the 1940s to the 1960s.