A small museum to house a large collection: it is the Domus Bulgari inaugurated in via Condotti in Rome. And for the occasion the maison has become the subject of a «short» by the Oscar-winning director Paolo Sorrentino. On the second floor of the historic store there is the installation, Roman Heritage, which houses the history of the brand with jewels that belonged to the stars or unique «pieces» of high jewelry. From the sautoir with a 50-carat sapphire by Elizabeth Taylor, a gift from Richard Burton for the actress’s 40th birthday, to the ruby and diamond brooches from the 1950s that belonged to Anna Magnani, up to the jewels worn by Ingrid Bergman, Anita Eckberg, Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren. Among all the objects on display, the 1970s sautoir stands out with three coins from the Roman era (54-68 AD) in silver, gold and bronze depicting the effigy of the emperor Nero. Bulgari’s connection with the Eternal City is reflected in many other creations, for example the 1990s necklace covered in emeralds, amethysts, sapphires and diamonds is inspired by the plan of Castel Sant’Angelo. And, again, in a diamond necklace there is ideally the vault of the Pantheon, while the Appian Way, paved with rubies, amethysts and aquamarines, shines in the Sassi bracelet. Period photos and sketches frame the walls. For Paolo Bulgari this is the realization of a long-cherished dream and also a source of pride: «Being able to celebrate in this space a 130-year-long history made of Art, Beauty and Italian excellence».
Bulgari in the spotlight, also for the newspaper La Stampa, which published a long interview with the CEO of Bulgari (which is now part of the French group LVMH), Jean-Christophe Babin. Here is the interview by Michela Tamburrino.
A small piece of history of the purest caliber that, for Bulgari, can only be brilliant. Welcome to the temple of luxury, erected in the eternal image of a Maison on which the sun never sets. It is only right then that it is celebrated in a museum, in the heart of Rome, in the heart of the store on Via Condotti, where it all began and which turned the heads of princes and divas. Among precious marbles and rooms of shared memory, the recovered jewels stand out, those of the epic: the brooches of Anna Magnani, the necklace that Burton gave to Liz Taylor. The Domus space, muffled, is intended to enhance the Heritage Collection of the house thanks also to the extraordinary inventiveness and meticulous historical research of the architect Peter Marino. Freeze frame and here is the visionary nightmare of Oscar winner Paolo Sorrentino, who tells in a thrilling short film, «The Dream», the mysterious Bulgari, with lost souls ready to meet again in the rooms of the store, nocturnal journeys to the afterlife with Valeria Golino in the guise of Beatrice. This too is a Great Beauty, the CEO of the Maison Jean-Christophe Babin might say and certainly thinks so.
Your great beauty on display. Why?
«It is the first permanent museum in the temple of Bulgari. Being able to add the museum aspect to the commercial brand. After having accumulated 130 years of history, we liked a different interpretation. So today’s creations can be admired better. By understanding the past, you can enjoy the contemporary more. Roots are important».
But where is luxury going today?
«It goes where it is appreciated in its values of authenticity and uniqueness with a particular savoir faire. If a brand is ancient, it will last for a long time. You spend more confidently if you have a perception of solidity. If you perceive eternity. A Bulgari piece will still be in fashion in twenty years. It is a further affirmation of our strategy».
But in a moment of crisis does everything change?
«Today we live in an uncertain world that is difficult to read. We navigate like on a ship in the fog. The important thing is to never forget the direction taken and the objective you want to reach. Maybe you slow down, you will struggle, to avoid the storm you will take different paths, but in the end you have to get where you have to».
Is this your strategy?
«The strength of our brand is here. We don’t know anything about 2015, but we are certain that we will invest more than we did in 2013 and 2014. The luxury of jewelry has a long time frame».
How do you build customer loyalty?
«By daring, always. The customer buys a few times in life and if you are too fearful you risk missing the opportunity that may never come again. Once you lose a buyer, it’s forever. In luxury, purchasing cycles are slow, a brand must be the first that comes to mind, it must generate a spontaneous category-brand association. With a network of global boutiques, they can find us everywhere: three hundred stores, fifty in airports and advertising that covers the entire year, no longer at Christmas as it used to happen years ago. Before, 30% of the turnover was made in six weeks. Now everything is more normal. We don’t sell panettone”.
At the Paris Biennale you presented a necklace worth 17 million euros. Does your typical customer only belong to this range of possibilities?
“No, on the contrary. The bulk of the products sold are between 1,000 and 6,000 euros. We must never forget that among our customers there are people who appreciate craftsmanship and who perhaps saved a year to make that purchase. And they are the customers I prefer because they add an emotional value to the expense and will always be loyal to you”.
Are you talking about jewelry and not accessories like bags and belts?
“Of course. The price of the bags is higher than average, we aim at the high end of the market, we want to be “the cream” and give the possibility of bringing something exclusive».
Has the integration with the LVMH group created major changes?
«The group acquired Bulgari shares and gave Bulgari ample freedom of action, it brought us very useful synergies to obtain better positions. We are a highly integrated company, a company under Italian law with Italian plants. All our product is made in Italy and in Switzerland as regards watches, the design is Italian. We have the manufacturing and skills to be able to produce it in its entirety, that is to say we have no external suppliers. Together we are only stronger. If I want to have a 200 square meter space in a mall I can ask for it alone but if with the group we ask for 2000, my 200 will be at better conditions. It’s a question of common sense and cost advantages, by aggregating we form a critical mass. But I am free to decide as I see fit».
