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Expert advice for buying diamonds

Published on March 31, 2024

Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires: which is their value? How to recognize them? Some people buy them to make up for something, someone to love, for others is a safe haven investment. Whatever the motivation, the opinion of an expert is crucial. Mainly because when it comes to diamonds, there are parameters which are a kind of list of basis for the listing, but for colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires the matter is not simple. What to be careful and what criteria adopted for the selection, is explained by Pio Visconti, Italian Gemological Institute lecturer, consultant of many regional entity and owner of the Gemological Centre based in Valenza. The proof that it is a famous gemologist, lies in the fact that his skill is cited as a guarantee in the auction catalogs, in case of its certification of the jewel. «How to evaluate a stone? If you were to buy a Rolex goes from the authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?», says in this interview with Gioiellis.com .

Pio Visconti in tenuta da golf — Pio Visconti in golf attire

Question. Which among the famous four C carat, color, clarity and cut, it is more important when choosing a diamond?Answer. The criterion that must prevail, in my opinion, is cut. Of course weight, color and clarity are important, but because spending a stone IF 40 points and 70 points maybe a Vs2 is quite similar, the fact remains that when the diamond is set must shine on the frame, it must be a mountain of light, as the ancients said, and this can only be achieved with a good cut.

Fedi eternity in diamanti — Eternity wedding rings in diamonds

Q. But those who are not in the industry how can recognize a good job? They only rely on their aesthetic sense?

A. In the certificate are visible the numbers that refer to the values of the upper part, for example 57 %, and the height of the crown 14%. To the customer does not say anything and that is why beside is written the analyst’s judgment: excellent, good, average, as proportions or as accuracy. Ultimately, I’d recommend a diamond cut-out great, because the other criteria are linked to the price.

Q. What do you do if the certificate does not exist?

A. I do have a question: if you were to buy a Rolex goes from authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?

Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi — Legends of Africa ring with white diamonds and emeralds

Q. Many well-known brands are keen to highlight the exclusive use of certified diamonds, but there is the risk of receiving the certificate of another gem?

A. Anything can happen, but ruining his reputation for a non-transparent behavior for little gems of value is not worth it, especially since it takes very little to turn into a business catastrophe. In cases of very rare stones, the diamond is sealed with his certificate inside, even in the last decade is increasingly the request of engraving the certificate number on the girdle of the stone itself.

Q. The race to the certification also depends on the remarkable technological developments in producing synthetic diamonds that are derived from carbon yes, but made in a laboratory, and on the increasing of the number of natural stones modified by man to make them look more beautiful. The Gemological Institute of America (Gia), has even developed a 3D software to mask false. Does it work?

A. It is one more tool, but alone is not enough. The job of the gemologist is to identify the authenticity of the stone with a suitable instrumentation. In addition, there is a price list of the maximum for each of the 4 C, but the precise value is determined by supply and demand. Traders can even evaluate the stone without even seeing her, precisely because the certificate is authentic. Things however, is terribly complicated with colored stones: no certifying agency in the world is able to identify parameters in a serious manner that may suggest the value of an emerald, a ruby and a sapphire. And for precious stones is even worse.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show — Examination of a diamond jewel

Q. It is said that the origin of the gems will determine the quality. It is true that the Burmese rubies are the most beautiful, as well as Colombian emeralds need to be?

A. It is a simplification: it is known that a Burmese ruby usually has the characteristics of exceptional color because it is bright red, shiny, without saturation of dark tone or purple, almost the shade of the Ferrari cars to be understood. This does not mean that similar stones can not be found even in deposits of other countries, but they are certainly rarer. For example, those thai have excellent transparency, but also a purplish tinge, or a very small saturation blue. The same applies to emeralds: some exemplar, magnificent for color and transparency, the typical characteristics of beryl Colombians, were discovered in Brazil. Sapphires of Kasmhir are of a incomparable blue, but rare, while those of Ceylon are lighter but warmer tinge and, yet, those of Siam are of a very intense shade.

D. If the origin does not guarantee the quality, what about the cut?

A. The colored stones have most complicated crystal systems than diamonds, what matters is a good symmetry and uniformity color view from above, because you will never get this profile. For this reason, a cut not perfectly centered is acceptable in emeralds, rubies and sapphires. On the contrary, it is unacceptable in a diamond.

Q. And it always comes back to cutting …

A. Make the most of both the weight and the color of the gem depends on the skill of the cutter: Australian sapphires are very dark with a greenish overtones and therefore unloved, they are usually sliced thin enough to avoid accentuating the gloom. Instead, those from Ceylon with very nice shades, but not so intense, have a much larger pavilion to enhance the color.

Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms — 6.41 carat unheated pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby set in an 18k yellow and white gold ring surrounded by diamonds, designed by Forms

Q. But then the criterion of choice for these stones is the color?

A. Yes, it must be as pure as possible, reflect the idea of green or red or blue we have. Obviously, I do not see inclusions with the naked eye, maybe you can help me with a diopter glasses or two, because imperfections will lower the value. And if you happen to want to do some shopping while traveling, before you buy a stone better go before a certifying agency of the place.

Anello Margot con zaffiro taglio pera e diamanti — Margot ring with pear-cut sapphire and diamonds

Q. What are the most common counterfeits and the most economically harmful? We often hear about emeralds “No Oil ” as a sign of authenticity. Is also true for rubies and sapphires?

A. Of all the treatments mentioned is that most harmless and also the oldest: Plinius mentions in his writings that make for the most beautiful emeralds was enough to soak them in the oil. The micro-fractures resin impregnated: yes those who are serious. For sapphires the most resounding method is thermo-diffusion, which tinged with blue a natural corundum completely colorless and reduces the value one-tenth. The outcome? A gem from 70 euro including treatment, may also be assessed 1,200 Euros. While the roots of ruby, so named because opaque, are rubies of very low quality, that with a very sophisticated technique, receive infiltration glass. Are generally lead to increase the effect, in order to make the rubies completely transparent. So, a 4 -carat stone of the cost to trade effortlessly exceed 100 dollars, has the same appearance of one evaluated a 5 thousand dollars.

Q. So the certification agency guarantees the authenticity and origin of the product?

A. Yes, it checks whether it is natural or synthetic , in the first case, it has undergone treatment. Thanks to the inclusions, which are the traces of the rock in which the rock was formed, it is possible to trace the geographical area. Value there is a very wide gap related to trade, fashion, personal perception.

Pietre di colore: zaffiro, rubino, rubellite e zaffiro giallo — Color stones: sapphire, ruby, rubellite and yellow sapphire

The crown jewels of Holland

Published on March 18, 2024

Even the royals of Holland can boast a good number of important jewels. Here are what are ♦

Years ago, Maxima from the Netherlands was included among the 100 most influential people in the world by Time magazine for her social commitment. And she really seems like a lucky woman: she married a prince, she became queen, after Beatrice of Holland abdicated in favor of her son Willem-Alexander in 2013. Maxima Zorreguieta Cerruti, born in Argentina, also had access to one of the richest jewelery collections in Europe. It is a heritage accumulated over the centuries and kept intact thanks to a brilliant solution: that of bringing together the most important pieces in a foundation. And if the female members of the family can use them based on their dynastic role, some of these very precious jewels are reserved exclusively for the reigning queen or consort. Just like Queen Máxima, who one year after her coronation demonstrated great skill in modifying and wearing them. Because these are tiaras that can be dismantled and reassembled like necklaces and bracelets and vice versa. Here’s how, starting from the diamond-sapphire tiara worn on the day of the coronation.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara e gli orecchini della parure di zaffiri — Maxima of Holland with the tiara and earrings of the sapphire set

Sapphire Parure. Made in 1881 for Queen Emma, the tiara, which is part of the Sapphire Parure, has 655 South African round brilliant cut diamonds with a total of 242 carat and 33 sapphires of Cashmere 155 carats. One cushion cut sapphire surrounded by two smaller sapphires and five diamonds on each side is the central element, that can also be worn separately as a brooch. To make it lighter than the new queen has eliminates the three diamonds set in the shape of lilies on the top and replaces them with a single large diamond. The choker of this parure was worn as a tiara adding on top five elements each constituted by one central sapphire surrounded by diamonds in a diamond-shaped set.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la collana della parure di zaffiri indossata come tiara — Maxima of Holland with the sapphire set necklace worn as a tiara

Diamond tiara .It’s a Queen Emma wedding gift from the in 1879, and it was originally topped by three star of diamonds 12-pointed. Now it is composed of three central diamonds that can be replaced by rubies.

Dettaglio della tiara con 34 diamanti taglio rosa — Detail of the tiara with 34 rose-cut diamonds

Rose-cut diamond tiara Tiara formed by a row of 34 large diamonds embedded on the plaque of platinum (chaton) a very popular fashion in the mid-nineteenth century, which can be used as a tiara or necklace.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di 34 diamanti taglio rosa — Maxima of Holland with the tiara of 34 rose-cut diamonds

Tiara of antiques pearls Belonged to the Grand Duchess Ana Pavlovna of Russia, wife of William II of the Netherlands, is made up of diamonds and seven pear-shaped pearls that appears to date back to 1600.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara delle perle antiche — Maxima of Holland with the tiara of ancient pearls

Tiara of daisies Transformed several times, initially had on top five pearls round each surrounded by ten diamonds brilliant cut, in order to form a daisy, in fact. In 2002, in lieu of flowers the stars were included handed down by Queen Emma, the second wife of William III. The star-shaped jewelry were popular in the late nineteenth century, and it was Sissi Empress Elisabeth of Austria to bring it to its success using them as barrettes in her hair.

La tiara delle margherite — The daisy tiara

Tiara Mellerio is part of a parure consisting of a necklace, a bracelet and a brooch with rubies and diamonds in large quantities: 385 gems in the tiara, necklace in 425 and 135 in the cuff.

La tiara Mellerio con bracciali e orecchini — The Mellerio tiara with bracelets and earrings

Wurttenberg Tiara is a tiara with an intricate design of diamonds and pearls forming swirls and lilies, surmounted by two rows of pearl teardrop-shaped, six at the bottom and five in the top, both of which are removable and are therefore four possible versions : with or without beads, with the first or second row. It has always been the favorite of the former Queen Beatrix, who since her wedding day worn it in all official occasions.

Dettaglio della tiara Wurttenberg — Detail of the Wurttenberg tiara

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di tre diamanti centrali sostituibili con i rubini — Maxima of Holland with the tiara of three central diamonds replaceable with rubies

Dettaglio della tiara delle margherite-stelle — Detail of the daisy-star tiara

La tiara dele perle antiche senza perle — The antique pearl tiara without pearls

All about ruby

Published on July 12, 2023

Rubies are one of the most loved gemstones for centuries and are the gem of the month of July. But few know its true characteristics. Here is a quick guide to know all about rubies ♦

Bright, red, expensive: the rubies are one of the four minerals classified as gems, along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds. Beware, though: they are very rare. They are often used other gems like ruby red but usually of lesser value. Have you ever wondered why it is called ruby? Simple: the name of the stone comes from the Latin word ruber, red. Want to know all about rubies?

Anello in oro bianco con rubino non scaldato taglio smeraldo di 6,54 carati — Ring in white gold with an unheated emerald cut ruby of 6.54 carats

What are. Dispelling a myth: not all rubies are just red. The color varies from red to deep pink. According to science, the rubies are a variety of corundum, a mineral composed of aluminum oxide. But from a chemical point of view the color red is induced by the presence in its interior of chromium. From a mineral point of view, the ruby is a relative of another precious stone: the sapphire, that is also a corundum. So much so that sometimes it is difficult to determine whether a gem is a ruby or sapphire. For example, a ruby with a color not too strong sometime is classified as a pink sapphire. The rubies are used in jewelry, but not limited to: the stones are very rare, almost like a diamond.

Rubino sangue di piccione, non scaldato — Pigeon blood ruby, unheated

Look inside. Within a ruby you can find an asterism: this is a point bright three-or six-point or star that is caused by inclusions of rutile. This type of rubies is cutted into cabochons to display the effect of light. The asterisms are visible properly with a single source of light: they give a sense of motion and are much appreciated.

I riflessi del rubino — The reflections of the ruby

The provenance is important. The rubies are found in many parts of the world, but those of Mogok Valley, Myanmar (Burma) are the most prized for their intense red color. Rubies are also found in Thailand, Cambodia, India, Afghanistan and Pakistan. In Sri Lanka are usually light pink (pink sapphires are often classified). Small deposits of rubies are also found in Tanzania, Madagascar, Vietnam, Nepal, Tajikistan, and even in the United States. Today, however, Africa is the main source of rubies. An estimated 80% of the rubies come from Mozambique, mainly from the Gemfields mine. But other companies are also active, such as Fura Gems, which began auctioning gems in the last year, along with a third competitor, Gem Rock, which will soon enter the ruby auction market. However, Africa, as a source, has traditionally been despised by industry, especially for rubies: the most valuable gems, in fact, are those from Burma. But with Burmese rubies in short supply, African rubies from Mozambique, Madagascar and Tanzania are on the rise. Therefore, it is better not to focus on the origin: it is better to judge the value of the stone itself, whatever the origin.

Anello La Reine in platino, rubino, diamanti — La Reine ring in platinum, ruby, diamonds

How are. Weight, color and quality of the stone determines its value. First of all the color is important: those with a very intense and brilliant red are the most wanted. Their color is described as “pigeon’s blood”. Rarely rubies can also change color or submit an effect “cat’s eye”. It is also important to their degrees of clarity: a ruby without inclusions are very rare, especially over a certain size. A 10-carat ruby without any needle-like rutile inclusions (also called silk) may indicate that the stone has been treated, or is exceptional.

L'Anfiteatro, anello by Picchiotti con rubino di oltre 8 carati, diamanti, platino — L’Anfiteatro, ring by Picchiotti with ruby over 8 carats, diamonds, platinum

Treated or natural? Because the imperfections are common in virtually all rubies, they are used by gemologists to tell if a stone has been treated or is a synthetic ruby. The treatment, in most cases consists in heating the raw stone before it is cut. In fact, almost all rubies today are treated in some way, usually by using the thermal method. For this rare untreated rubies and good quality can reach very high prices.

Estrazione di un rubino in Groenlandia — Extraction of a ruby in Greenland

Anello con rubino sangue di piccione — Pigeon blood ruby ring

Zorab, diamanti bianchi e neri, rubini — Zorab, ring with black and white diamonds, rubies

Anello in platino e diamanti con rubino birmano antico di 4,34 — Ring in platinum and diamonds with an antique Burmese ruby of 4.34 carats

Collana di perle naturali con rubini della Birmania e diamanti bianchi — Natural pearl necklace with Burmese rubies and white diamonds

Andreoli hero of two worlds

Published on February 23, 2023

Showroom

Anello in oro con zaffiri rosa e ametista

From the sale of carpets in India,to Valenza, till up to the headquarters in Rockefeller Center in New York, so here is the high jewelry by Andreoli.
The work in Valenza, the success in the US. Andreoli is an American brand of haute joaillerie that started its journey in Italy in 1945, when the Hadjibay family has established itself in the trade of precious stones (we have also spoken here). Since 1970, the company has evolved and keeps the design and realization of pieces of fine jewelery in Valenza, Italy, while the market on which it operates is the American one. Seen the origins, not surprising that the protagonists of the collections are large stones, like brilliant diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires, as well as pearls, coral and turquoise. Not only that: in addition to gold Andreoli uses also platinum and titanium to create even impressive jewels, such as the large necklace with over 850 carats of rubies and 20 grams of beads. It must not be easy to wear in casual manner. The helm of the company is governed now by Caroline Hadjibay, who took the baton from Jack Hadjibay patriarch from his headquarters in Rockefeller Center in New York.

Spilla a forma di rosa composta con 65,41 carati di zaffiri, oro e titanio — Spilla composta con 65,41 carati di zaffiri, oro e titanio

And to say that the history of the family started by Abraham Hadjibay, in India, where he sold the best Persian carpets. But we must add that Abraham’s father had sold gems to the czar of Russia. Abraham Hadjibay has focused from carpets to jewelery, the trade in precious stones. The son, Jack Hadjibay, then continued the business. The activity of the brand Andreoli, however, originated in Valenza, Italy, where it was founded in 1845. In 1920 Andreoli has launched her prêt-à-porter collection and immediately achieved success around the world. The two stories together have led to what is now one of the most famous brand of high jewelery.

Bracciale in oro bianco con diamanti e rubini

Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo con turchesi e diamanti — Orecchini in oro giallo con turchesi e diamanti

Spilla a forma di rindine con diamanti bianchi e neri — Spilla con diamanti bianchi e neri

Anello in oro, argento, diamanti, peridoto

A buckle for Vendorafa

Published on November 6, 2022

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Bracciale della collezione Buckle in oro, diamanti, rubini

Among the great inventions of humanity we can count inventions such as the wheel, vaccines or nuclear energy. But without forgetting the buckle. Adjusting the width of a pair of trousers or a skirt is no less important than many other things and, Vendorafa Lombardi thought, is an invention that must be celebrated. The result is the Buckle collection, in gold, diamonds and rubies. The shape of rings, earrings and bracelets recalls, in a graceful and stylized way, the idea of two elements that are joined, in this case by a small diamond ring.

Orecchini della collezione Buckle in oro, diamanti, rubini

The Buckle collection is not the only novelty of the company from Valenza (Italy), which also participated in the last competition of the Couture Design Awards in Las Vegas with a bracelet that garnered many compliments. The Magnolia bracelet, entirely handmade, is composed of a voluptuous surface in fluted and hammered gold, with a diamond pavé edge and a band of small emeralds. The gold used by the company is 100% responsible.

Bracciale Magnolia in oro giallo martellato, diamanti, smeraldi

Orecchini della collezione Pebbles in oro, occhio di tigre, diamanti

Anello della collezione Pebbles in oro giallo, madreperla e diamanti

Anello della collezione Buckle in oro, diamanti, rubini

Tiffany ring, mystery setting and trilogy

Published on September 17, 2022

Campus

The three techniques of jewelry that you absolutely must know if you do not want to make bad figures. The first is … ♦

There are jewels that have marked an era. Which have been copied, imitated, and made famous by famous people. In short, milestones in the history of jewelry that you absolutely must know. They are those jewels that have been made with a technique or a form that you must know, if you do not want to make fools. We have selected three of the many jewelery stages.

1 The Tiffany frame

Invented in 1866 by Charles Tiffany and his team of gemologists, it soon became an industrial standard for engagement rings: six platinum spikes (claws) that like claws sprout from the base of the ring and support it in an almost invisible way. to reflect the maximum of light. The traditional alternative, which is still used, is the ring with four jaws. The six brands, however, can be smaller and thinner, so as to bring out the stone and lock it more accurately. Simple, but brilliant.

Disegno montatura Tiffany anello con diamante

Anello con solitario montato a griffe Tiffany

2 The invisible mystery setting

Patented by Van Cleef & Arperls in 1933, it consists of cutting small parallel grooves along the stone belts downwards and placing them one by one on a gold or platinum net. In practice, it is the gem itself to be inserted into this structure and to hold the nearby stone, with an interlocking game that can be worth even 300 hours of work for a pin. The system is mainly used for rubies and sapphires, while the emerald with its inclusions makes this operation rather risky because it could disintegrate if cut badly. Only in 1990 was this setting developed for diamonds. But today’s advanced techniques with software modeling make this process economically prohibitive, not only for the cost of labor, but also for excessive waste material. Despite this, the mystery setting style is still used by masters of jewelry, such as Jar.

Bracciale con rubini e diamanti con tecnica mystery setting di Van Cleef & Arpels

Spilla Van Cleef & Arpels, zaffiri Mistery setting e pavé di diamanti rotondi

3 The Trilogy ring

In this case it is not a patent or a special technique, but one of the most successful marketing campaigns in the industry: the three diamonds mounted on jaws or set on a faith were certainly not new, but in 1990 De Beers proposed with an advertising campaign created by the American agency JW Thompson. The slogan was: “present, past, future”, declined in about 2000 advertising films and remained in the minds of consumers, so much so that all the jewelers of the wedding segment were pushed to keep a similar model in their catalog.

Anello trilogy in oro bianco e diamanti di Damiani

Little H’s sandwich pearls

Published on July 9, 2022

COLLANE/perle/Rings

Pearls that hide rubies or emeralds: the jewels of Little H are really different from the others ♦ ︎
The cult of pearls originated in Japan, but not all Japanese consider pearls as an untouchable symbol of the perfection of nature. Pearls can be used, worked, opened, excavated, modified: and that’s what Hisano Shepherd does. Born in Japan, but growing up between Tokyo and Los Angeles, where she resides today, the designer began designing jewelry as a girl. “My grandmother took me to the Takarazuka theater, a female theatrical group and wore her most precious jewels. In particular, I remember his emerald engagement ring and cocktail rings with opals”, says Hisano Shepherd.

Orecchini con perle barocche in cui sono incastonati semi di perle

His contact with jewelry began with the study of goldsmithing techniques during high school and then with specializations between Los Angeles and New York. She then started to practice in a repair and polishing workshop for a fashion jewelry producer, until she focused his creative path and founded his Maison, Little H. Today she works mainly with pearls, round or baroque. But in an absolutely original way: the spherical fruit of the oysters is worked up to house rubies, sapphires and emeralds. They are sea pearls or freshwater pearls, perfectly round or with irregular volume, white or colored. And maybe split in half. A collection, for example, is called Pearl Geode, for which it has also filed a patent application.

Anello con perla Edison lavanda e tormaline

Orecchini pendenti con tormaline a spirale e geode di agata

The marine treasures of Shagreen et Tortoise

Published on April 8, 2022

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Bracciale in vermeil, prehnite e conchiglia

The new creations by Shagreen et Tortoise, the Parisian Maison of the designer Marie-Hélène Loubrielle: shells with precious stones become refined jewels ♦

With flippers and swimming mask looking for Shagreen et Tortoise jewelry, a collection of rings made by shells setting on gold corals and claws shaped, embellished with drop and faceted cut carnelian, ruby, garnet, amethyst, rose quartz, green tourmaline. The designer is Marie-Hélène Loubrielle, a French cosmopolitan born in Paris, grew up in New York, Sao Paulo and Singapore, influenced by the style of the great American jewelry designer like Seamann Schepps and Verdura, and fascinated by Brazilian gems and Asian exotic materials.

The perfect design of a shingle urchin, brought back from Comoros, was the driving force to try to make it a jewel embedding a star ruby cabochon. Hence the idea of a collection of one of a kind pieces and the name of the brand, two materials widely used in jewelry in the early twentieth century: Shagreen is the skin shark or race skin, used for grinding hard materials such as ivory and ebony, and turtle. The tortoises are fortunately protected but as proofs Loubrielle, colors and shapes of shells are much as beautiful.

Collier in vermeil, onice verde e conchiglia

The new jewelry by Vania Leles

Published on August 26, 2021

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Orecchini floreali in oro rosa, titanio, rubini del Mozambico

The new jewels by Vania Leles, with the most precious African gems ♦

The legacy of Africa seen through the eyes of a former model of the great jewelery brands who has learned to love precious stones: we have already talked about Vania Leles. The model, now a designer, continues her mission to enhance the precious fruits that come from the African land. The result is high-end fine jewelry. Vania Leles prefers single-colored jewels: all rubies, or all emeralds, all diamonds.

Also read: Vania Leles rubies

Bracciale in oro bianco con diamanti e smeraldi dello Zambia

Descending from the catwalk and leaving the photographic studios, Vania entered the halls of the Gemological Institute of America (Gia), where she learned the secrets of precious stones. After graduating, the designer moved to London and worked for Graff Diamonds, De Beers and Sotheby’s Jewelery Department, where she oversaw the auctions of some of the most prestigious pieces of the century, such as the jewels of the Duchess of Windsor and the Graff Pink, one of the most expensive jewels ever sold at auction. Finally, in 2011 she decided to found her jewelery brand, using high quality diamonds that come from countries without conflict. Vania Leles was one of the designers included in Sotheby’s selection, on show and sale in New York, entitled Brilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance.

Orecchini Kilimanjaro in oro bianco, titanio, diamanti bianchi

Anello Kilimanjaro in oro bianco, titanio, diamanti bianchi

Orecchini Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e neri

Anello in oro rosa, diamanti e rubini del Mozambico, rubellite

How to choose a ruby according to Picchiotti

Published on July 17, 2021

news

What should you know before buying a jewel with rubies? The answer is not just by any gemologist, but one of the most exclusive Italian jewelers: Picchiotti. The Piedmontese Maison, in fact, has added a blog to its website https://www.picchiotti.it/blog/ which offers interesting information for jewelry lovers and buyers.

“One of the first decisions to make or questions to ask when buying a ruby is natural (unheated) or heated. Rubies are usually heat treated to create a deeper, redder hue, ”Picchiotti’s blog reads. “Unheated rubies are rarer and more expensive than heated ones. The rarity of unheated rubies can skyrocket the price. According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), ruby can get the highest price per carat of any colored gem. Recent auctions reveal the volatility of how insane prices can be, especially for untreated and unheated rubies from 5 carats and up. Earlier this year, Sotheby’s sold a 3.11-karat ruby ring for around $ 225K and a natural ruby pendant necklace for nearly $ 630K! ”

Octagonal ruby (3.01 ct) buff-topped rubie ( 1.26 ct) and diamond (2.17 ct) ring set in white gold

The blog therefore recommends asking the jewelry retailer right away if the stone is heated or not. Ruby heat treatments are permanent: “so if you can’t afford the very rare unheated stones, you can rest assured that a treated ruby will keep its beauty and color in the long term. Unheated rubies are also a good investment as they are more likely to hold their value over time ”.

Orecchini con diamanti e rubini by Picchiotti

For me, rubies emanate a romantic energy, a passion that has always attracted me. The perfection of the deeply beautiful color, the rarity of truly fine quality specimens and the lasting intrinsic value are all qualities that, for me, distinguish rubies. The ruby is a treasure in a class of its own, second to none!
Giuseppe Picchiotti, founder of the brand

Orecchini in titanio, diamanti, rubini by Picchiotti

The Dionea Orcini’s mysteries

Published on April 14, 2021

Showroom/Rings

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con tsavoriti e topazio blu London

The precious mysteries of Dionea Orcini, from Bologna to Miami and Jaipur ♦

Do you like mysteries, the charm of the gothic, ghosts, spirits, the zodiac signs? Do you do yoga, try a shudder to think of the wisdom of ancient writings, ayurvedic mysteries, etc.? If you are not a fan of all these topos that fascinate so many others, you can still appreciate the Dionea Orcini jewelry. They are dedicated to that mysterious world for some, imaginative for others. “The collections of Dionea Orcini reveal the mysteries of a world shrouded in secrets”, it is its very definition.

Between magic and magic potions for the unknown, in any case, the jewels of the designers have been worn by a long line of celebrities. Dionea Orcini currriculum is very varied. She has a degree in Fashion Design, she studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Bologna, then continued with internships and Costumes at the University of Arts in Prague, to conclude the Architecture Interior studies of UCLA in Los Angeles. He learned the art of jewelry at MJS School in Miami, under the supervision of Marc Thurn, German master jeweler. He studied gemology at the GIA in New York and also Vedic gemology in Jaipur, India. With this background, it is not surprising that his collections are dedicated to Semiramide, like to Middle Ages, but also to the Marquis de Sade. Although the latter, in fact, he had a way of living a little ‘further away from the peaks of Eastern philosophy.

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati e pavé di rubini

Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con simbolo Fleur de Lys, zaffiri blu e lapislazzuli

Collana regolabile in filo di seta con citrino e pavé di arabeschi i -oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti

Doppio anello in oro rosa 18 carati con diamanti bianchi, grigi e neri

Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti bianchi, agata rossa e onice nero

Collana con perle barocche di Tahiti nere con cordino di seta, oro bianco 18 carati, rubini

Hydrangeas and poppies with Stenzhorn

Published on November 26, 2020

Rings/bracciale/COLLANE

Hydrangeas and poppies: it is difficult for these two different flowers to be united in the same bouquet, together with the daisies. The German Maison Stenzhorn, however, unites them in two different lines that are made with the same elements: white gold, diamonds and rubies or sapphires. For this reason, even if the shape of the jewels is necessarily very different, the mini collections, which are part of the Floral collection, are similar in inspiration. Both, in fact, are composed of three jewels: necklace, earrings and ring.

Collana Hortensia in oro bianco, diamanti e rubini

Both collections, Hortensia and Poppy, are part of the company’s high jewelery proposals: they are elaborate jewels, made with care and, of course, sold at a price that reflects the quality of the materials used as well as the not simple workmanship. Poppy earrings, for example, cost 72,000 euros. For the necklaces the price goes up. But those who want to wear a jewel composed of diamonds and rubies that form flower crowns, probably do not have a too meager bank account in the first place.

Orecchini Papavero con diamanti e zaffiri

Orecchini Papavero con diamanti e rubini

Orecchini Hortensia con diamanti e rubini

Collana Margherita con diamanti e rubini

Berr & Partners, the passion of gems

Published on October 29, 2020

Showroom

Uno dei pezzi storici della Maison: anello Orbis Lacteus in oro bianco diamanti e grande tormalina Paraiba

The jewels for maharajas by Berr & Partners, Maison of Geneva that focuses on the exceptional quality of the stones ♦ ︎

If you love gemstones, colored ones, intense and deep colors, then you also love Elke Berr. Or, rather, Berr & Partners, a brand based in Geneva, which was founded in 1986 by two gemologists, Elke Berr Berr and Thomas and that has as its objective the purchase and resale of natural, exceptional stones of the highest quality. But not only. It was inevitable that the market experience of the stones, combined with the refined atmosphere in Geneva, turn into jewelry collections that bring to the fore the gems.

And more, the Elke Berr has the privilege of having access to one of the most celebrated mines in the world, that of Mogok in Burma, one of the most famous for the quality of its precious minerals.

Anello con raro zaffiro blu non riscaldato taglio cuscino di 12 carati

At 17, the gemologist was already in Sri Lanka in search of precious gems. It goes without saying that the Maison attaches to its curriculum the recognition of the most prestigious gemological institutes, which guarantee the quality of its proposals, which are also sold as an investment. So if you want to feel like a maharaja you know where to go.

Anello con smeraldo colombiano di 8,39 carati

Anello vintage in oro giallo, con montato uno smeraldo colombiano di 10,37 carati

Anello Bolla, in oro bianco, cristallo di rocca da 28,82 carati e diamanti

Acrymis, anello in oro bianco e tormalina Paraiba con taglio a goccia

Vania Leles, the African soul of gems

Published on October 14, 2020

Showroom/Rings

Girocollo in oro giallo e diamanti della collezione Sahara

Rubies, emeralds, diamonds: these are the colors of Africa for Vania Leles, which uses gems of origin that are responsible for high-class jewelery signed VanLeles ♦

Africa for Vania Leles, born in Guinea-Bissau, means two things: pride and precious stones, with which she also realizes collections of fine jewelry. Also for this reason, for example, a couple of years ago, she created a collection of six high-jewelery pieces with emeralds and diamonds from Zambia from the Gemfields mines, which boasts a process of ethical acquisition of stones. The collection pays tribute to Dido Elizabeth Belle, who was born in slavery in the West Indies in 1761, but was liberated and raised in London, and for Sarah Forbes Bonetta, who was presented as a “gift” to Queen Victoria in 1850 and later grown up as the queen’s goddaughter. In short, stories of slavery of other times. But that Vania, of dark skin, wanted to remember. The latest collection, instead, is called Sahara: dedicated to the desert, it is made of gold and diamonds.

Fortunately, the designer had a different story: she was a model for Saint Laurent. But then she decided that jewels were more interesting than life on the catwalk and she studied at the Gemological Institute of America and then worked for Graff and De Beers. How to say that it started from above. Having learned her trade, she opened an atelier in New Bond Street, London. Her jewels are top top top, as you can see from the images on this page. Lavinia Andorno

Orecchini della collezione Sahara in oro giallo e diamanti

New color signs by Salvini

Published on October 27, 2019

Rings/Showroom/COLLANE

Collane con croci della collezione I Segni

New jewels for Salvini’s I Segni collection with emeralds, sapphires and rubies ♦

When a jewel likes it it is a sign that its shape is appreciated. When then the signs are many, it is obvious that the appreciation is repeated. As in the I Segni collection by Salvini, which is periodically re-proposed with variations. After the pink gold and mother-of-pearl version, Salvini presented a new series of jewels in addition to those in the collection.

The protagonists, this time, are the precious stones: rubies, emeralds and sapphires, which are added to white gold and diamonds. The new jewels include rings and necklaces with a cross-shaped pendant. At the moment, the heart, butterfly and four-leaf clover, which are present in the jewels of the rest of the collection and also give the name to the line, are therefore signs indicating love or luck. The I Segni collection is a continuation of the maison, which is part of the Damiani group, and which over the years has become an icon of Italian jewelry. Lavinia Andorno

Anelli in oro bianco, smeraldi e diamanti

Anelli in oro bianco, zaffiri e diamanti

Hedy Martinelli, knit diamonds

Published on July 26, 2019

Showroom

Orecchini con maglia in argento e diamanti brown

New unique pieces signed by the Roman designer Hedy Martinelli, with the ancient technique of steel mesh, gold and diamonds ♦

Iron and steel with platinum and diamonds? Yes, she can: Hedy Martinelli, coming from a tradition started by his maternal grandmother, brings in fine jewelery a breath of avant-garde with metallic fabrics that seem crushes armour of medieval knights in tourney and match them with diamonds paved of various sizes. Result? Spiral shaped earrings that dangle form iron strips, and, despite the material, have a light appearance. There is a bracelet composed of many, large and small, thin strands of tubogas steel, interspersed with thick circles in precious metals and diamonds, and the draped knit and diamonds cuff.

Bracciale con maglia placcata oro e diamanti

It occurs in the production, each jewel is a unique piece forged and handmade, the burnished finish and colors with coral, pink and blue sapphires, gold nuggets and cabochon rubies.

Bracciale con maglia in argento e diamanti

Anello con zaffiri briolette su oro annerito

Anello con maglia in argento annerito e diamanti

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New petals for Van Cleef & Arpels

Published on May 4, 2019

COLLANE/Orecchini/Showroom

Orecchini Folie des Prés in oro rosa, rubini, diamanti

New great jewels in the traditional Folie des Prés collection by Van Cleef & Arpels ♦ ︎

Van Cleef & Arpels also is blooming in spring. Or rather, it flourishes again. Because the Folie des Prés fine jewelry collection has been a classic for years now. But, just like in spring, new colors bloom in the collection. This year, for example, the Maison in Paris has launched a collection of spectacular jewels centered on equally spectacular rubies.
So in the Folie des Prés collection here are a pair of earrings with rubies paired with rose gold and diamonds. The stones have different cuts, which are used to compose the flower petals.

But it is not the only novelty. The collection also includes a watch-bracelet with a 23 mm white gold case, trimmed with round diamonds. The bezel is in white gold with round and marquise-cut diamonds, round pink sapphires and teardrop mauve sapphires, while the dial is in white mother-of-pearl. Also, in this case, the stones are used to compose elegant colored flowers, thanks to round pink marquise sapphires and mauve teardrop sapphires. The clasp is in white gold. The hour of spring has arrived. Giulia Netrese

Bracciale Folie des Prés in oro rosa, rubini, diamanti

Van Cleef & Arpels, orologio con diamanti, zaffiri rosa e malva

Bracciale in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri

Collier in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri rosa e malva

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri rosa e malva

The magic of Chopard

Published on January 29, 2019

Rings/alta gioielleria/Showroom

Anelli della collezione Magical Setting di Chopard

By a magic in the setting technique, it’s born a high-jewelry collection Magical Setting by Chopard ♦

Inventing something new is difficult, but good designers often succeed. Even more difficult, however, is to innovate the technique, especially if the one in use has been tested for decades or even centuries. It seems, however, that Chopard was able to invent something new in the goldsmith’s technique. A spell defines her as Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director. In fact, the innovative embedding technique, developed thanks to the work of Chopard master craftsmen, has been called Magical Setting.

Caroline Scheufele wanted to make the light of the gems more intense, enhancing the presence and personality of the jewel by making the embedding disappear.

It was not easy, it seems, because the technique of setting stones is an immutable tradition. Until now. At the end of many efforts, however, here is Magical Setting, which immediately turns into a collection of fine jewelry. In fact the stones seem to be free from the bond of the metal, which is just mentioned. The effect is remarkable. The jewels use diamonds, or diamonds with blue sapphires from Sri Lanka, rubies from Mozambique or emeralds from Colombia. The cluster revolves around a single important stone completely surrounded by gems of unusual size, which give the classic design an unexpected touch of bold modernity. And as for gold, Chopard emphasizes the selection of stones not only for quality, but also for the socially sustainable origin. It is not a minor detail. Giulia Netrese

Stenzhorn with feathers

Published on November 26, 2018

Rings/Showroom

The Persuasion collection by the German Maison Stenzhorn is inspired by the feathers of bird-of-paradise ♦︎

How you can persuade her of your love? Animals have their methods, for example, they show colored feathers or sing songs of love. Men use more or less the same methods (ok, without feathers), but with the addition of jewels.

From this consideration the Persuasion collection of Stenzhorn was born, a great Maison of German jewelry.

To inspire the collection, in particular, is been the courtship ritual of the birds of paradise. The elaborate ritual and the colored feather wheel of the bird of paradise has been studied, analyzed and admired. The Persuasion collection is characterized by a whirling fan of feathers at the center of each piece. They are rippled waves that start from the central stone, set in white or pink gold, with pavé diamonds. Other versions of the jewels alternate diamonds with sapphires, rubies and tsavorites, with a touch of color that would also appeal to the vainest peacocks. Giulia Netrese

Orecchini con diamanti, collezione Persuasion

Orecchini con diamanti e tsavoriti, collezione Persuasion di Stenzhorn

Nanis in red and black

Published on September 25, 2018

Rings/bracciale/Showroom/COLLANE

Dancing in the Rain Reverse, anello con rubino e diamanti

Nanis extends the Dancing in the Rain Reverse collection and introduces red and black, rubies and diamonds ♦ ︎

Red and black is the title of a novel that the French writer Stendhal wrote in the first half of the nineteenth century. But it is also the new contrast that is added to the Dancing in the Rain Reverse collection by Nanis. The peculiarity of the collection and of the new pieces, presented at VicenzaOro September, as the name suggests, is the possibility of using jewels, pendant for necklace, earrings or ring in two different ways.

The rotation of the surface shows the hidden back face, which takes the place of the first one.

Obviously the two surfaces of the jewel are different: the pieces that are added now show, for example, on one side a ruby surrounded by small brilliant cut diamonds. Turning the jewel on the two pins that fix it, for example to the band of the ring, one discovers the other face, made with a pavé of diamonds that fade from white to black. The combination is also used for the conclusion of the bracelets, but in this case red and black face each other.
At VicenzaOro Nanis also showed the new exhibition concept. The corners will be characterized by the extreme elasticity of the system and the immediate recognition of the brand. The basic display elements will be of two types: vertically developing display cabinets and lower counters, both with removable, transparent drawers surmounted by an important glass case with independent LED lighting. A large texture composed of quadrangular elements takes up the design of the exhibition floors, flips it over the walls and acts as a backdrop to the exhibition. The central element that draws the background wall bears the Nanis logo – Italian Contemporary Luxury Factory.

Nanis, collezione Dancing in the Rain Reverse

Lato B dell'anello, con diamanti bianchi e neri — Lato B dell’anello, con diamanti bianchi e neri

Bracciale con diamanti bianchi e neri, rubino

Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e neri, rubino

Anello Reverse in oro 18kt con doublette con Madreperla e Topazio Blu London

Bracciale Reverse in oro 18kt con doublette con Madreperla e Topazio Blu London

Anello Reverse in oro 18kt con doublette con Labradorite Verde e Cristallo di Rocca

Collane in oro e pietre naturali della collezione Dancing Reverse