Elizabeth Taylor Archives

Diamonds and beautiful jewels at auction with Christie’s

Published on March 25, 2021

Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on April 13th and simultaneous online jewelry sale from April 8th to 20th. For fans of great jewels, the season of the most important auctions officially opens. Christie’s sale includes a significant selection of colorless diamonds, colored diamonds and precious stones, along with jewelery by Belperron, Bulgari, Cartier, Graff, Harry Winston, Hemmerle, Jar, Lacloche, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels. The sale will offer 217 lots, with estimates ranging from $ 10,000 to $ 2.5 million.

The April 13 auction is led by The Perfect Palette, a trio of colored diamonds offered as separate lots, which include a 2.13-carat fancy vivid blue diamond ring (estimate 2,000,000-3,000,000); a 2.34-carat fancy vivid orange diamond ring (estimate 1,500,000-2,500,000); and an elegant ring with bright purple-pink diamonds of 2.17 carats (estimate 1,500,000-2,500,000). Additional significant colored diamonds include a 6.56 carat fancy deep orange pink diamond; a 25.55 carat fancy vivid yellow diamond ring and an elegant 3.02 carat vivid purplish pink diamond ring offered without reserve.

Anello con diamante taglio a pera di 38 carati

There is no shortage of colorless diamonds, guided by a ring with a 38.04 carat stone, color D, impeccable clarity, Type IIa (estimate 2,500,000-3,500,000); an emerald-cut diamond of 14.50 carats, color D, clarity IF, type IIa and the Buhl-Mann diamond ring of 19.47 carats. The colored gemstones are also strongly represented by an exquisite Burmese ruby ring by F.J. Cooper, an important jeweler from Philadelphia (estimate 1,200,000-2,200,000) and a ring with Colombian emeralds from Cartier. Additionally, there are 12 separate lots with unmounted stone clusters that include diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds with estimates ranging from $ 2,000 to $ 30,000, all offered without reserve.

Collana in oro, diamanti e rubini di Van Cleef & Arpels

The private collections within the sale offer designer pieces from Belperron, Bvlgari, Cartier, David Webb, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels and Verdura that incorporate the highest quality gemstones with a refined design. The Estate of Jacqueline Leeds contains over 38 jewels in live and online sales and features a pear-cut brilliant diamond of 16.48 carats, J color, VS2 clarity and a suite of Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond jewelry. A Midwestern collector’s property contains eight jewels and three of which are from Jar, including a pair of sapphires, pink sapphires, and diamond earrings.

The sale also includes a Serpenti wristwatch with diamonds and Bvlgari onyx that pays homage to Elizabeth Taylor, famous actress and renowned jewelry collector. The elegant timepiece was donated by Bulgari with proceeds destined for the Elizabeth Taylor Aids Foundation. Working tirelessly on the AIDS crisis in the 1980s, the actress (who passed away in 2011) founded the Elizabeth Taylor Aids Foundation in 1991 to achieve her vision of a virus-free world. Proceeds from the lot will then go to the Elizabeth Taylor Aids Foundation.

Anello con diamanti di Jar a forma di cristallo di neve

Bracciale con ametiste di Suzanne Belperron

The jewels of Hollywood stars revealed in a book

Published on December 9, 2019

news

What jewels have the historic Hollywood stars bought and donated? Journalist Beth Bernstein is one of the lucky few who works with what is her passion: jewelry. Beth Bernstein, an American, is also a consultant and expert on the world of gems and jewelry design. And in many years of career he has collected not only images and accumulated experience, but also a series of stories, between the anecdote and the biographical note that he decided to tell in a book, published some time ago.

The volume is titled: If These Jewels Could Talk: The Legends Behind Celebrity Gems. You read in English and are passionate about jewelry, and so it is an unmissable book that contains juicy anecdotes related to jewelry. The book is now on Amazon for € 49.30, is published by Antique Collectors Club and has 254 pages, with illustrations.

Elizabeth Taylor con collana e pendente di rubini e diamanti firmata Van Cleef & Arpels

Here is an anecdote: while Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were shooting a movie in Rome, the actress suspected that the partner had a flirtation with Sophia Loren. Furthermore, Liz had to undergo urgent appendicitis surgery. Burton then presented himself with a pendant in the shape of a heart, with pavé diamonds, by Van Cleef & Arpels, which soon became one of his favorite pieces, because he was given so much love by Richard.

In the movie High Society, Bing Crosby watches an engagement ring of his ex-wife (on screen) Grace Kelly. “It’s a beautiful stone, Sam,” he says to her fiancé, John Lund. “Do you have a solitaire mine, George?” The ring you see in the film has mounted a 10.47 carat emerald cut diamond by Cartier and it is the engagement ring given to Grace Kelly by Prince Rainier III (we talked about it here). But what most people don’t know about this ring is that it was the second engagement ring for the prince. The first was a ruby with diamonds, but the prince discovered that it would not be enough to win Grace’s heart. Federico Graglia

L'anello di fidanzamento di Grace Kelly con diamante da 10,47 carati — L’anello di fidanzamento di Grace Kelly con diamante da 10,47 carati

The heart of Bulgari in Moscow

Published on September 11, 2018

news

Sotuar Bulgari in oro, grande smeraldo, rubini, diamanti, 1970. Collezione Heritage Bulgari

Bulgari’s historical jewels in a major exhibition organized in the heart of the Kremlin ♦ ︎

The jewels return to the Kremlin. But they are not those of the tsars. For the first time in Russia, the Moscow Museums host a retrospective exhibition featuring Bulgari’s high-end works. The exhibition was curated by Lucia Boscaini, Brand and Heritage Curator of the Maison.

On show (7 September 2018-13 January 2019) there are over 400 unique high-end pieces from the Bulgari Heritage Collection, as well as those from private collections all over the world.

Curiously, one of the main themes of the exhibition is the reflection of the ideas of femininity in the works of Bulgari. Perhaps the women who wore Bulgari are more aware of their gender? Who knows. The theme, the organizers explain, is explored through the collection created by the jewelry house in several decades of the last century, when the destruction of stereotypes about the traditional role of women in society was reflected in jewelry and other arts.
With roots in the nineteenth century, when it was founded by Sotirio Bulgari, since 1920 the Roman maison has created exclusive jewels and watches in the art deco style and started using large round diamonds. In the following decades, the style of jewelry changed with the lifestyle of women. But it is in the fifties and sixties that the great jewels of Bulgari have become an international myth, thanks to the use of large colored stones.

The brand’s history is closely linked to legendary women like Anna Magnani, Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Ingrid Bergman, Gina Lollobrigida, Monica Vitti and Sophia Loren.

But the myth is also to collections of wristwatches such as those of the Serpenti line, developed by Bulgari since the mid-forties. to the tubogas technique embellished with enamels, stones, opaque and polished gold, using Greek coins, Roman coins and shutters of colossal historical value. the exhibited pieces range from the late nineteenth century until the nineties. Federico Graglia

Collana in oro con perle, diamanti, zaffiri, rubini

Bulgari, bracciale orologio Serpenti in oro, platino, rubini e diamanti

La collana indossata da Elizabeth Taylor, ora esposta alla retrospettiva Bulgari a Mosca, presenta 16 smeraldi colombiani ottagonali a gradini, ciascuno circondato da diamanti, con un pendente con smeraldo 23,44 carati che era stato una spilla

The 5 most expensive engagement rings ever

Published on April 30, 2018

Rings

Grace Kelly e il classico anello Cartier

Engagement rings: here are the five most expensive ever celebrity gifts like Paris Hilton, Beyoncé or Grace Kelly. The one with the highest price is … ♦

What have been the five top engagement rings so far? There is no official ranking. There are even cases like that of Paris Hilton, who lost the $ 2 million engagement ring (the latest in a series) that was given to her by her fiancé and promised husband, Chris Zylka. In any case, it is possible to identify the engagement rings that have been awarded and have set a hammer price at a public auction. In short, on many rings given to actresses or famous women you can make assumptions. On these, instead, there is a certainty. So, here are the most expensive engagement rings.

What are the five top engagement rings of the world? You can establish a ranking considering the hammer price at auction or at shop. In this case, here are the winners.

L'anello Trombino con diamante Blu di Bulgari — The Trombino ring with blue diamond by Bulgari

The ring more expensive is signed Bulgari. On 24 April 2013, the «Trombino ring» was sold in London by auction house Bonhams to 7.9 million euro, equivalent to 9.5 million dollars. It is a ring with a 15.30 carats blue diamond. The diamond is cut to cushion within a pavé brilliant-cut diamonds and baguette cut diamonds. Blue diamonds are extremely rare. Over the last ten years, only thirty blue diamonds over five carats were beaten at auction in the world. Few if we compare with the tens of thousands of colorless diamonds sold in the same period. The blue color of the diamond is caused by trace of boron, that makes diamonds semi-conductors of electricity: the blue color is intensified when the diamond is hot. Not only: these diamonds can also become phosphorescent exposed to short wave UV light and project a red glow for a few seconds. The diamond is mounted in a ring Trombino created by Bulgari in the mid-1960s. The ring was bought by Laurence Graff, of Graff Diamonds.

Elizabeth Taylor con l'anello di fidanzamento — Elizabeth Taylor with engagement ring

Diamond ring by 33.19 carat Krupp and Taylor-Burton, sold for $ 8.8 million. The ring was given to Elizabeth Taylor by Richard Burton. The diamonds, Asscher-cut, has long been worn by Elizabeth Taylor, before being sold at auction by Christie’s in 2011 for a price of $ 8.8 million. Originally the ring was owned by the German actress Vera Krupp, wife of industrialist Alfred Krupp.

Beyoncé con l'anello da 5 milioni di dollari — Beyoncé with the $5 million ring

In third place is the Beyoncé’s 18-carat diamond ring valued at $ 5,000,000, a gift from rapper Jay Z. The ring is signed Lorraine Schwartz and features a diamond-cut emerald. The diamond, colorless, is recognized to be one of the best in the world.

Paris Hilton con l'anello porta jella — Paris Hilton with bad luck ring

In fourth place is the ring of Paris Hilton, with a 24-carat diamond worth $ 4.7 million. The heiress-starlet has received the ring from the young greek namesake Paris Latsis. Their happiness was ended rapidly, but the 24-carat diamond with an emerald-cut mounted on a white gold band retains its charm. Paris Hilton, however, do not have it anymore: after breaking the engagement, the ring was sold at auction to raise funds for the victims of Hurricane Katrina. But for nearly half of its original price.

Grace Kelly con l'anello di diamanti taglio smeraldo — Grace Kelly with the emerald cut diamond ring

In fifth place the Grace Kelly’s Cartier ring , a 10:47 carat diamond, worth 4.06 million dollars, fruit of love of Prince Rainier III of Monaco. This also has an emerald cut diamond, and is known to be one of the best among those produced by Cartier. But if inflation is taken into account, the cost today would exceed 44 million.

Un momento dell'asta di Christie's — Christie’s auction

Liz Taylor’s jewels come back at Christie’s auction

Published on April 11, 2017

news

Christie’s unveils new exceptional jewelry in the auction catalog of 17 May in Geneva ♦
In Geneva, on 17 May, Christie’s will auction a 92 carat exceptional diamond-shaped heart, perfect. We’ve talked about here.
But that day will be for sale also many other interesting jewelry. In addition to those already anticipated in this article, there are others that the auction house has anticipated. Among them, there are some that belonged to Liz Taylor. In December 2011, Christie’s has already put on sale the collection of Elizabeth Taylor with these earrings and bracelet burmese rubies and diamonds signed Cartier. The jewels were part of the parure of jewels given to Elizabeth Taylor in August 1957 by her then husband, Mike Todd. Now are back on sale. The actress was famous for his passion for jewelry. But he was not the only woman with this enjoyable hobby. At the auction in Geneva, for example, you are selling the collection of an anonymous “elegant lady”, who apparently does not like the fame. The collection, however, is really top level. It includes a diamond necklace by Chopard, with a shaped D color diamond weight of approximately 56.03 carats pear (has a rating of up to US $ 7 million), in addition to exceptional jewelry created by Graff, De Grisogono and David Morris.
The space of the virtuous
For those who love the high jewelry, high design, there is a piece signed Jar (Joel Arthur Rosenthal) mysterious as creative maestro of jewelry. American by birth, Parisian by adoption, is considered a creative worship. Her earrings with diamonds are a delicious candy for collectors. An other talented designers is the Indian Viren Bhagat, who from Mumbai produces no more than 60 pieces a year. In the auction there will be a pair of her earrings with diamonds and rubies.
Cartier view from Éric Nussbaum
It has been recognized as one of the most eminent experts of Cartier and was hailed by his peers as “Eye”, an homage to the virtuoso level of its taste and refinement. And now the pieces of the vast collection owned by the expert, who died in 2003, are to be auctioned. It’s an interesting occasion: suffice it to say that the Nussbaum collection consists of over 1,600 jewelry and objects.
The charm of the sixties
The jewelry in Italy has experienced a moment of glory in the sixties. At the «dolce vita» of the jewel it is dedicated to a Christie’s auction section. From Buccellati to Villa or Bulgari, will be offered 40 jewels of that magical time. Federico Graglia

Liz Taylor con gli orecchini in rubini e diamanti di Cartier

La parure di orecchini e bracciale di Cartier appartenuti a Liz Taylor

Spilla di Boucheron con diamanti e rubini birmani

Anello con smeraldo colombiano di 13,16 carati

Anello con zaffiro, smeraldi e rubini birmani di Bulgari

Orecchini con diamanti e rubini birmani di Viren Bhagat

Pendente con diamante a pera da 56 carati. Stima: 5-7 milioni di dollari

A selfie with Bulgari (at Harrods)

Published on October 17, 2015

news

Bulgari for a month is the star at Harrods, the most famous and elegant department store in London. The exhibition dedicated to the Italian brand, which is went under the banner of the LVMH group, will celebrate the great jewels that have stayed on the skin of great actresses such as Elizabeth Taylor, Gina Lollobrigida, Ingrid Bergman and Anita Ekberg. Vintage images will be used to describe the historical period, the Sixties, in which Bulgari has become a brand coveted by the star system of cinema. Not only: Bulgari has also prepared some limited edition pieces designed exclusively for Harrods. In addition, if you go in the British capital and want to take this opportunity to buy a jewel of Italian Maison, you can also enjoy a private lounge, where customers can book an appointment to try a few pieces of fine jewelry. The salon offers a dressing table with a special camera that allows customers to get a kind of selfie while wearing virtually the pieces of jewelry chosen. In short, you can preview the effect of a jewel worn. A professional photographer will be available in the lounge for shoot the customers with their jewelry. But, however, is better to fix an appointment before: in the case, send an email to bulgari@harrods.com, or try calling the 0207 893 8508 in London. Federico Graglia

Liz Taylor con la collana di diamanti e smeraldi

Collana di diaman ti e smeraldi di Bulgari appartenuta a Liz Taylor

Gina Lollobrigida con diadema firmato Bulgari

Ingrid Bergman nel film «La Vendetta della Signora», 1963. Indossa una parure di Bulgari

Harrods, il più esclusivo magazzino londinese

The 90 years of David Webb

Published on July 20, 2015

news

David Webb celebrates the 90th anniversary of the birth of its founder. And it is to celebrate the anniversary posted on Instagram the birthday cake cutting. Note the big bracelet that encircling the wrist that is about to cut the cake: it is so exaggerated that it seems the result of a hard work with Photoshop. In any case, the jewelry of New York (if you are into Big Apple, the boutique is at 942 Madison Avenue), continues to be one of the brand of choice for stars like Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Garner, Beyoncé and Eva Mendes, as well as in the past was a favorite of Elizabeth Taylor, Barbara Streisand or Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. David Webb (1925-1975) was born in Asheville, North Carolina, in 1925. He was a self-taught designer: among his most famous works are the dragon bracelets, brooches with the Maltese cross and jewelry with animal motifs. In 1964 the Duke of Windsor bought a bracelet for his wife. Webb died of pancreatic cancer in 1975. But the jewelry brand continues to produce pieces of high-class, after being purchased by Mark Emanuel, Sima Ghadamian and Robert Sadian in 2010. Federico Graglia

Spilla a forma di ragno con diamanti e kunzite

Spilla di oro e diamanti Flat Scrool, 1972

Bracciale con catene in oro, con smalto e rubino

Bracciale Pussy cat, diamanti, smalto, oro e smeraldo

Anello con due serpenti, oro e zaffiri tagliati a pera

Suzanne Syz for few

Published on June 13, 2015

Showroom

Collana Extravaganza, in oro bianco, 133 perle, 25 diamanti

Suzanne Syz has a surname of relief in Geneva, where he resides. But not only because it is the same name of a famous Swiss bank of investment. According to what she told herself to Forbes magazine, 15 years ago he had the privilege of being at the table with Elizabeth Taylor. It’s not every day and not at all. The fact is that the actress has admired a necklace of turquoise that Suzanne had created for herself. And he wanted to buy it. “I did not know how much to charge,” Suzanne told in New York, to Anthony DeMarco, an jewelry expert . The episode also marked the launch of the professional designer and his Swiss boutique, which produces only 50 pieces per year. Needless to say, his creations have become very, very sought after by connoisseurs and even wealthy enthusiasts.
The jewels of Suzanne have stories to tell and are affected, from a stylistic point of view, by the Eighties that she has lived in New York, in contact with artists such as Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Julian Schnabel, Francesco Clemente and Jeff Koons. It is now ready to present, in London, the new pieces, which uses a lot of titanium (she likes a jewelry light, wearable, comfortable) and many colors. The gems used ranging from green-blue paraiba Mozambique to red spinels, cut pear, green emeralds traditional blue sapphires. But even very tiny pearls. Cosimo Muzzano

Anello Ali Baba's Trove. Con tourmaline paraiba del Mozambico da 55 carati, diamanti, titanio — Anello Ali Baba’s Trove. Con tourmaline paraiba del Mozambico da 55 carati, diamanti, titanio

Midsummer Night: collana in platino con zaffiri antichi cabochon

Brezza estiva: collana in oro bianco, 16 elementi turchese, tormalina, zaffiri, diamanti

Orecchini Shanghai Lilly. Titanio, giada lavanda, diamanti, zaffiri viola

Anello con grande zaffiro, titanio, diamanti

Orecchini Lily of the Valley. In Oro bianco 16 peele Akoya, 544 zaffiri viola, 152 granati verdi, 330 diamanti, 36 smeraldi

Orecchini Coast to Coast. Oro giallo, titanio, con 449 diamanti

Bracciale in zirconio, con 10 zaffiri naturali, un diamante rosa

Braccialetto Vita Savers. Oro bianco, titanio, con 560 diamanti

Bracciale Estate Symphony. Oro rosa e bianco, con 42 zaffiri molticolor, diamanti rosa

Orecchini Foglie di autunno. Oro giallo, due smeraldi, diamanti brown, zaffiri gialli, diamanti bianchi

Video: the Bulgari Snakes

Published on January 6, 2015

jewelstube

Bracciale di Bulgari della collezione Serpenti. Oro rosa e diamanti

There are few collections that live years, very few ones that remain current after a couple of decades, rare ones that look new after age 70: it’s the case of the Bulgari Snakes. Founded in 1940, bracelets and watches in the shape of a snake of Roman fashion house have become one of the most emblematic of Bulgari. For this, the brand which is now under the banner of the French group LVMH, never tires of repurposing. The animal that is the symbol of sin has also become the symbol of beauty and sex appeal. Not least, the snake was also a symbol adopted by the ancient Egyptians, as the Romans and the Greeks. No coincidence that the founder, Sotirio Bulgari, was a native of Greece. Collection jewels Snakes worn by Elizabeth Taylor during the filming of Cleopatra, in 1962, but also by Marisa Berenson and Diana Vreeland, have reinforced the myth of this collection, which has become a perpetuum mobile, something that does not end while is renewing . Now the Snakes of Bulgari are celebrated in a movie that highlights all their complex refinement. F.G.

A Roma una Domus per Bulgari

Published on October 28, 2014

news

Un piccolo museo per ospitare una grande collezione: è la Domus Bulgari inaugurata in via Condotti a Roma. E per l’occasione la maison è diventata soggetto di un «corto» del regista premio Oscar Paolo Sorrentino. Al secondo piano dello storico negozio c’è l’allestimento, Roman Heritage, che ospita la storia del marchio con gioielli appartenuti alle star o «pezzi» unici di alta gioielleria. Dal sautoir con zaffiro da 50 carati di Elizabeth Taylor, regalo di Richard Burton per i 40 anni dell’attrice, alle spille in rubini e diamanti degli anni Cinquanta appartenute ad Anna Magnani, fino ai gioielli indossati da Ingrid Bergman, Anita Eckberg, Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren. Tra tutti gli oggetti espostiì spicca il sautoir anni Settanta con tre monete di epoca Romana (54-68 D.C.) in argento, oro e bronzo raffiguranti l’effigie dell’imperatore Nerone. Un legame quello di Bulgari con la Città Eterna che si riflette in molte altre creazioni, per esempio la collana anni Novanta rivestita di smeraldi ametiste, zaffiri e diamanti si ispira alla pianta di Castel S. Angelo. E, ancora, in un collier di diamanti c’è idealmente la volta del Pantheon, mentre la via Appia, lastricata di rubini, ametiste e acquemarine, splende nel bracciale Sassi. Foto e bozzetti d’epoca fanno da cornice alle pareti. Per Paolo Bulgari questa è la realizzazione di un sogno coltivato da tempo e anche un motivo di orgoglio:« Poter celebrare in questo spazio una storia lunga 130 anni fatta di Arte, Bellezza ed eccellenza italiana». M.d.B.

Il soutire di Eliz esposti alla Domus Bulgari. Foto dal sito Facebook di Bulgari — Alcuni dei gioielli esposti alla Domus Bulgari. Foto dal sito Facebook di Bulgari

Bulgari in primo piano, anche per il quotidiano La Stampa, che ha pubblicato una lunga intervista al ceo di Bulgari (che ora fa parte del gruppo francese Lvmh), Jean-Christophe Babin. Ecco l’intervista di Michela Tamburrino.

Un piccolo pezzo di storia a caratura purissima che, per Bulgari, può essere solo brillante. Benvenuti nel tempio del lusso, eretto a immagine sempiterna di una Maison sulla quale mai tramonta il sole. Giusto allora che si celebri in un museo, nel cuore di Roma, nel cuore del negozio in via Condotti, nel quale tutto nacque e che ha fatto girare la testa a principi e dive. Tra marmi pregiati e salette della memoria condivisa, svettano i gioielli recuperati, quelli dell’epopea: le spille di Anna Magnani, la collana che Burton regalò a Liz Taylor. Lo spazio Domus, ovattato, è destinato alla valorizzazione della Heritage Collection della casa grazie anche alla straordinaria inventiva e certosina ricerca storica dell’architetto Peter Marino. Fermo immagine ed ecco l’incubo visionario del premio Oscar Paolo Sorrentino, che racconta in un corto da brivido, «The Dream» il Bulgari misterioso, con anime perse pronte a ritrovarsi nelle stanze del negozio, tragitti notturni dell’aldilà con Valeria Golino in veste di Beatrice. È anche questa una Grande Bellezza potrebbe dire e certamente pensa il Ceo della Maison Jean-Christophe Babin.

Interno e bozzetti Domus Bulgari. Foto dal sito Facebook di Bulgari

La vostra grande bellezza in mostra. Perché?

«È il primo museo fisso nel tempio di Bulgari. Poter aggiungere al marchio commerciale anche l’aspetto museale. Ci piaceva, dopo aver accumulato 130 anni di storia, una chiave di lettura diversa. Così le creazioni di oggi si possono ammirare meglio. Comprendendo il passato si gusta di più il contemporaneo. Le radici sono importanti».

Ma oggi il lusso dove va?

«Va dove lo si apprezza nei suoi valori di autenticità e di unicità con un savoir faire particolare. Se un marchio è antico durerà ancora a lungo. Si spende con più sicurezza se si ha la percezione della solidità. Se si percepisce l’eternità. Un pezzo Bulgari tra vent’anni andrà sempre di moda. È un’affermazione ulteriore della nostra strategia».

Ma in un momento di crisi tutto cambia?

«Oggi viviamo in un mondo incerto dalla difficile lettura. Navighiamo come su una nave nella nebbia. L’importante è non dimenticare mai la direzione presa e l’obiettivo che si vuole raggiungere. Magari rallenti, farai fatica, per evitare la tempesta prenderai vie diverse, ma alla fine bisogna arrivare lì dove si deve».

È la vostra strategia?

«La forza del nostro marchio è qui. Non sappiamo nulla del 2015, ma siamo certi che investiremo più di quanto fatto nel 2013 e nel 2014. Il lusso della gioielleria ha tempi lunghi».

Come si fidelizza il cliente?

«Osando, sempre. Il cliente compra poche volte nella vita e se sei troppo timoroso rischi di perdere l’opportunità che potrebbe non ripresentarsi mai più. Perso un acquirente è per sempre. Nel lusso i cicli d’acquisto sono lenti, un marchio deve essere il primo che ti viene in mente, deve generare un’associazione spontanea categoria-marca. Con una rete di boutiques mondiali ci trovano ovunque: trecento negozi, cinquanta negli aeroporti e una pubblicità che copre tutto l’arco dell’anno, non più sotto Natale come accadeva anni fa. Prima si faceva il 30% del fatturato in sei settimane. Ora tutto è più normale. Non vendiamo panettoni».

Alla Biennale di Parigi avete presentato una collana da 17 milioni di euro. Il vostro cliente tipo appartiene solo a questa fascia di possibilità?

«No, anzi. Il grosso dei prodotti venduti si aggira tra i 1.000 e i 6.000 euro. Non bisogna mai dimenticare che tra la nostra clientela c’è gente che apprezza l’artigianalità e che magari ha risparmiato un anno per fare quell’acquisto. Ed è il cliente che io prediligo perché aggiunge un valore emozionale alla spesa e ti sarà sempre fedele».

Lei parla di gioielli non di accessori come borse e cinte?

«Certo. Il prezzo delle borse invece è superiore alla media, miriamo alla parte alta del mercato, vogliamo essere “la creme” e dare la possibilità di portare qualcosa di esclusivo».

L’integrazione con il gruppo Lvmh ha creato dei grandi cambiamenti?

«Il gruppo ha acquisito azioni Bulgari e ha lasciato a Bulgari ampia libertà d’azione, ci ha portato sinergie utilissime per ottenere posizioni migliori. Siamo un’azienda fortemente integrata, una società di diritto italiano con impianti italiani. Tutto il nostro prodotto è realizzato in Italia e in Svizzera per quanto riguarda gli orologi, il design è italiano. Possediamo manifatture e competenze per poterlo produrre in toto, vale a dire che non abbiamo fornitori esterni. Insieme siamo solo più forti. Se voglio avere uno spazio da 200 metri quadrati in una mall posso chiederlo da solo ma se con il gruppo ne chiediamo 2000 i miei 200 li otterrò a condizioni migliori. Questione di buon senso e di vantaggi di costo, aggregandoci formiamo massa critica. Ma sono libero di decidere come meglio credo».

Anche di fare acquisizioni, anche di aggregare altri marchi del lusso?

«Certo ma non è nella nostra strategia. Lvmh è a capo a 60 aziende di moda e di orologi perciò Bulgari non ha interesse ad acquisire altri marchi. Il nostro scopo principale è alimentare la nostra fama, diventare sempre più mitici. Il management deve pensare solo Bulgari come gioielli, orologi e tutto il resto. Nel ranking mondiale siamo al quindicesimo posto, siamo nella top ten dei profumi e se guardiamo al segmento di prezzo, sopra i 2.000 euro siamo nella top five».

Una mitologia che si amplifica anche attraverso il segmento alberghiero.

«Gli alberghi sono molto importanti, sono l’espressione massima della nostra filosofia. Ne abbiamo annunciati tre, altri tre li abbiamo aperti, l’ultimo a Pechino. Cinque li inaugureremo nel 2020 oltre ai 20 store aperti nelle città che hanno un grande impatto multiculturale nel mondo, vale a dire, località turistiche che incidono».

Quali sono allora le città sulle quali puntare in un futuro prossimo?

«Se parliamo di flussi, non bisogna mai dimenticare le città simbolo che sono Parigi, Milano, Londra, New York, Tokyo, Shanghai alle quali vorrei aggiungere Pechino, Dubai, San Paolo e Sydney. Ripeto, il lusso è un business a circolo lento».

Il riferimento a Pechino non è casuale.

«È un segno importante di come Bulgari si sta rafforzando. L’albergo ne è la prova del nove. Un lusso a 360 gradi è l’interpretazione integrale del brand che non è solo oggetto ma stile e filosofia di vita».

Interno Domus Bulgari. Foto dal sito Facebook di Bulgari

In Rome a “Domus” for Bulgari

A small museum to host a big collection: is the Domus Bulgari opened in Via Condotti in Rome. For the occasion, the brand has been the subject of a “short” of the Oscar-winning director Paolo Sorrentino. On the second floor of the historic shop there is the installation set up, Roman Heritage, that hosts to the brand’s history with jewelry that belonged to the stars, or “pieces” of unique high jewelry. From the sapphire sautoir with 50-carat of Elizabeth Taylor, a Richard Burton gift for the 40th anniversary of the actress, to the rubies and diamonds brooches belonged to Anna Magnani, to the jewelry worn by Ingrid Bergman, Anita Ekberg, Gina Lollobrigida Sophia Loren. Of all the objects espostiì stands out sautoir Seventies with three coins of the Roman period (54-68 AD) in silver, gold and bronze depicting Emperor Nero. The bond between Bulgari and the Eternal City is reflected in many other creations, such as the necklace coated with emeralds amethysts, sapphires and diamonds, inspired by the plan of Castel Sant’Angelo. And, again, in a diamond necklace is ideally the Pantheon’s vault, while the Appian Way, paved with rubies, amethysts and aquamarines, shining in the bracelet Sassi. Vintage photos and sketches are alla round the museum. To Paolo Bulgari this is the fulfilment of a long held and also a source of pride: «Being able to celebrate in this space without a history of 130 years of Art, Beauty and Italian excellence».

A Rome une “Domus” pour Bulgari

Un petit musée pour accueillir une grande collection: est la Domus Bulgari ouvert dans la Via Condotti à Rome. Pour l’occasion, la marque a fait l’objet d’un court-métrage par le réalisateur oscarisé Paolo Sorrentino. Au deuxième étage de la boutique historique il ya l’installation, Roman Heritage, qui héberge l’histoire de la marque avec des bijoux ayant appartenu à des stars, ou « pièces » uniques de haute joaillerie. Du sautoir de saphir de 50 carats d’Elizabeth Taylor, un cadeau par Richard Burton pour le 40e anniversaire de l’actrice, à les broches de rubis et diamants appartenaient à Anna Magnani, à les bijoux portés par Ingrid Bergman, Anita Ekberg, Gina Lollobrigida Sophia Loren. De tous les objets espostiì se démarque une sautoir avec trois monnaies de l’époque romaine (54-68 AD) en argent, or et bronze représentant l’empereur Néron. Le lien entre Bulgari et la Ville éternelle se reflète dans beaucoup d’autres créations, comme le collier enduit d’émeraudes améthystes, saphirs et diamants, inspiré par le plan de Castel Sant’Angelo. Et, encore, dans un collier de diamants est idéalement la voûte de la Panthéon, tandis que la Via Appia, pavée de rubis, des améthystes et des aigues-marines, brille dans le bracelet Sassi. Photos et croquis vintage sont tout autour du musée. Pour Paolo Bulgari cette est l’accomplissement d’une longue tenue et aussi une source de fierté: «Le fait de pouvoir célébrer dans cet espace sans une histoire de 130 ans d’art, la beauté et l’excellence italienne».

In Rom ein “Domus” für Bulgari
Ein kleines Museum, eine große Sammlung veranstalten: die Domus Bulgari eröffnete in der Via Condotti in Rom. Zu diesem Anlass hat sich die Marke, die Gegenstand einer “kurzen” des Oscar-prämierten Regisseurs Paolo Sorrentino. Auf der zweiten Etage des historischen Shop gibt es die Installation einrichten, römische Erbe, die an der Geschichte der Marke mit Schmuck, der zu den Sternen, oder “Stücke” der einzigartige High Schmuck gehörte hostet. Von dem Saphir sautoir mit 50-Karat Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton ein Geschenk für den 40. Geburtstag der Schauspielerin, den Rubinen und Diamanten Broschen gehörte Anna Magnani, zum Schmuck von Ingrid Bergman, Anita Ekberg, Gina Lollobrigida Sophia Loren getragen . Von all den Objekten espostiì abhebt sautoir Seventies mit drei Münzen aus der Römerzeit (54-68 AD) in Silber, Gold und Bronze Darstellung Kaiser Nero. Die Bindung zwischen Bulgari und der Ewigen Stadt ist in vielen anderen Kreationen, wie die Halskette mit Smaragden Amethyste, Saphire und Diamanten beschichtet, inspiriert von dem Plan der Engelsburg nieder. Und wieder in einem Diamant-Halskette ist im Idealfall die Pantheon Gewölbe, während der Via Appia, gepflastert mit Rubinen, Amethysten und Aquamarine, glänzend in das Armband Sassi. Weinlese-Fotos und Skizzen sind alla Runde des Museums. Paolo Bulgari dies ist die Erfüllung eines lang gehegten und auch eine Quelle des Stolzes: «Die Möglichkeit, in diesem Raum ohne eine Geschichte von 130 Jahren Kunst, Schönheit und italienische Exzellenz feiern».

В Риме в “Domus” для Bulgari

Небольшой музей, чтобы провести большую коллекцию: является Domus Bulgari открылся в Виа Кондотти в Риме. По этому случаю, бренд был предметом «короткой» оскароносного режиссера Паоло Соррентино. На втором этаже исторического магазина есть установка, Роман наследия, на котором размещена историю бренда с драгоценностями, который принадлежал к звездам, или “кусков” уникальной высокой ювелирных изделий. Из сапфира sautoir с 50-каратного Elizabeth Taylor, в подарок Richard Burton на 40-летия актрисы, на броши рубинами и бриллиантами пятидесятых принадлежал Anna Magnani, в ювелирные изделия носили Ingrid Bergman, Anita Ekberg, Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren. Из всех объектов espostiì выделяется sautoir Семидесяти трех монет римского периода (54-68 г. н.э.) в серебро, золото и бронзу с изображением императора Нерона. Связь между Bulgari и Вечного города отражается и во многих других творений, таких как ожерелья, покрытой изумрудами аметистами, сапфирами и бриллиантами, вдохновленный плана замка Сант-Анджело. И, опять же, в бриллиантовое колье идеально свод Пантеона, в то время Аппиевой дороге, вымощенной рубинами, аметистами и аквамарины, сияющий в браслет Сасси. Винтажные фотографии и эскизы по всему музею. Для Paolo Bulgari это выполнение тех пор состоялось, а также является источником гордости: «Находясь в состоянии праздновать в этом пространстве без истории 130 лет искусства, красоты и итальянского совершенства».

En Roma una “Domus” para Bulgari

Un pequeño museo para alojar una gran colección: es la Domus Bulgari abrió en Via Condotti en Roma. Para la ocasión, la marca ha sido objeto de un “corto”, de el director ganador del Oscar, Paolo Sorrentino. En el segundo piso de la histórica tienda se encuentra la instalación, Roman Heritage, que aloja la historia de la marca con joyas que pertenecieron a las estrellas, o “piezas” única de alta joyería. Desde el sautoir de zafiro con 50 quilates de Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton un regalo para el 40 aniversario de la actriz, a los rubíes y diamantes broches pertenecido a Anna Magnani, para la joyería usada por Ingrid Bergman, Anita Ekberg, Gina Lollobrigida Sophia Loren . De todos los objetos espostiì destaca setenta Sautoir con tres monedas de la época romana (54-68 dC), en plata, oro y bronce que representa el emperador Nerón. El vínculo entre Bulgari y la Ciudad Eterna se refleja en muchas otras creaciones, como el collar de esmeraldas recubierto con amatistas, zafiros y diamantes, inspirado en el plan de Castel Sant’Angelo. Y, de nuevo, en un collar de diamantes, ideal bóveda del Panteón, mientras que la Vía Apia, pavimentada con rubíes, amatistas y aguamarinas, brilla en la pulsera de Sassi. Fotos y dibujos vintage son alla por el museo. Para Paolo Bulgari esto es el cumplimiento de una larga data y también una fuente de orgullo: «Ser capaz de celebrar en este espacio sin una historia de 130 años de arte, belleza y excelencia italiana».