What are the trends for the future and what influences the world of jewelry? Paola De Luca, founder, creative director and analyst of Trendvision Jewellery & Forecasting, explained this to the diamond bible, Rappaport. The company she runs is specialized in monitoring products in the sector and has an international network of professionals in New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong. Among other things, it also conducts research for the Vicenza Fair.
The trend magician speaks. «Obviously, a crystal ball does not exist», explains the trend specialist, «but our job consists of evaluating the social and cultural changes taking place in the world, which are manifested in photography, in Hollywood films, on the catwalks of Paris, London and New York, in exhibitions and shows. Not only that, we also produce collections for various brands ourselves. Despite this, we have a different vision because, in fact, we do not think only in terms of carats and price, as jewelers do, who tend to be disconnected from the rest of the world”, says De Luca. The expert refers to an attitude of rejection of the sector to the word fashion, because it is associated with something ephemeral, compared to the concept of “a diamond is forever”, or of gold as something solid and long-lasting. “It is a different mentality and a misunderstanding: fashion refers to a predominant trend in the market, which is a reflection of contemporary lifestyle. Consequently, it would be a mistake not to consider changes in consumer tastes”. Does this also apply to jewelry?
The reality is sometimes difficult to decipher. For example, there do not seem to have been very significant changes in engagement rings. “This is not the case: design trends vary from minimalist to Art Deco, to vintage, to floral to rough or bi-color diamonds. The brilliant cut is always at the top of the preferences, followed by the oval, emerald and cushion. There is also the halo phenomenon, which includes up to three round diamonds in a single setting”, says Paola De Luca. “But be careful: it is not enough to propose an excellent diamond, design has a strong influence and trends change as quickly as magazine covers, which is why celebrities and fashion are influencing the main producers”, continues the analyst.
First trend: more diamonds for everyone. Trendvision sees great potential in diamonds, so much so that some producers are pushing the concept of ready-to-wear diamond jewelry. In short, from a jewel to be worn only on important evenings, the diamond could become a stone combined with simpler and less expensive bijoux. “In reality, there is a very minimalist approach to meet the current needs of the market with accessible products: very small jewels, therefore with less gold. This opens up the possibility of adding diamonds and precious stones”.
Second trend: long live lightness. But there is not only a general diffusion of diamonds in the near future. «Fluid lines inspired by air or water in gold and diamond settings are also very popular: the goal is to create a very light design», explains the expert. Thanks also to technology: «Of course, laser design allows for the creation of very light products, with an extremely romantic feel, which we have already started to see two seasons ago. The next step will be to add layers with alternative materials to gold or inlaid with semi-precious stones».
Third trend: the great mix. From the network of professionals with whom the manager works, other stylistic trends emerge: stones of different sizes put together, the hammered technique inspired by ancient cultures, and custom-made or handmade jewelry. Which are grafted with local traditions: «The challenge for Europeans, and in particular for Italy, is to create an authentically local product, but with international appeal. It is important not to confuse accessibility with cheapness: the price should be proportionate to the intrinsic value of the piece and reflect the added value of the design».
Fourth trend: customization. A design influenced by the great sale and demand of fancy diamonds and the increase in popularity of colored gems. To those who fear competition between them, De Luca responds as follows: «I don’t think there is competition between them. There are many types and colors of diamonds, which make diamonds extremely convenient and accessible. Rather, it is a question of design: diamonds can be used to highlight the beauty of a precious stone, of different materials and the challenge is to create a luxury product that tells a story, beyond the price of the diamond or gold. There are customized bijoux more attractive than a jewel.
