In Geneva, the birthplace of Maiso, Roger Dubuis presents a new creation: the Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar. It is a watch that links up with the timepiece that Roger Dubuis launched in 1996. The new model is distinguished by an exclusive biretrograde counter. The calendar is made from traditional materials, in a classic and refined size, and is certified by the Poinçon de Genève, a guarantee of excellence in the sector.
Roger Dubuis created examples of haute horlogerie that were marked by a marked expressiveness. This approach is reflected in the dial with biretrograde indication, an element particularly appreciated by the founder. Of the many projects developed during his career, this is the one that fascinated him the most, as it gave him the opportunity to show off the ingenious mechanics of watches, while stimulating his creativity. Having developed, simplified and modernised the retrograde system with the talented watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht in the late 1980s, Monsieur Roger Dubuis took advantage of the patent when he opened his eponymous Maison in 1995.
To underline its expressive aspect, the patent was presented in the form of a bi-retrograde indication on the dial of the first watch, combined with a chronograph. The bi-retrograde system is equipped with a complex harmonic mechanism composed of cams, pinions, pawls and springs, which allows the calendar hands to advance along the semi-circular scales and quickly return to their starting position at the end of their cycle, starting the journey all over again. Just like those that appeared in 1996, the scales are wide on the outside and narrow towards the centre, tracing an expressive curve and fostering a sense of suspension.
The new Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar is 40 mm thick, with a slim case crafted from 18K rose gold with a mother-of-pearl dial. In the early 2000s, Roger Dubuis was among the first master watchmakers to use these precious materials to craft men’s watches, making them the symbol of the Maison’s sophisticated and bold spirit. In particular, mother-of-pearl has a spectacular iridescence that captures the eye. The whole thing is completed by a brown 3D calfskin strap with an interchangeable rose gold folding clasp.
This timepiece also features a symmetrical dial inspired by the 1996 models, with biretrograde scales balanced laterally, and a small seconds counter positioned at 6 o’clock, perfectly aligned with the stamped detail at 12 o’clock. This last element bears the Biretrogade Calendar inscription, in the Maison’s historic font, along with the Poinçon de Genève symbol as it appeared on the Much More Biretrograde Calendar timepiece from the early 2000s, a further subtle tribute to the Maison’s 30th anniversary.
Caliber and caseback
Behind the aesthetics of the Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar is the RD840 caliber. This automatic movement, designed to have a 60-hour power reserve, reveals, through the sapphire crystal caseback, an oscillating weight inspired by the one first created by the Maison in 1996, now revisited in a modern key. Here too, you can admire the inner workings of the watch and get a genuine idea of the meticulous details certified by the Poinçon de Genève. For Monsieur Roger Dubuis, the Poinçon de Genève was a true philosophy capable of developing an approach to watchmaking that went beyond the simple measurement of time, a theory of aesthetics and performance capable of precisely determining the level of quality of craftsmanship.
To comply with the standard, each component of the RD840 calibre has been decorated and polished by hand, ensuring an impeccable appearance. Finally, one of the rings beneath the sapphire crystal features one of their catchy phrases. Done in a classic cursive style, it had already graced the oscillating weight of some of the Maison’s historic timepieces, representing another direct allusion to the thirtieth anniversary. «C’est une montre actuelle, inspirée mais pas soumise au passé, qui se projette dans un futur qui nous appartient» (It is a current watch, inspired but not subjected to the past, which projects itself into a future that belongs to us).
