orologi Archives | gioiellis.com

Three new Patrimony from Vacheron Constantin

Published on April 10, 2024

News from Watches and Wonders, the Geneva show that brings together 54 high-end watchmaking brands. In the Swiss city Vacheron Constantin presented new versions of the Patrimony line, launched just 20 years ago. There are three models, with a new antique silver-coloured soleil dial, straps in new shades, a customizable case back and a diameter of just 39 mm for the manual winding models.

Patrimony con cassa in oro rosa e cinturino azzurro — Patrimony with rose gold case and light blue strap

Two hand-wound models in white gold or rose gold feature an antique silver-colored dial, a closed caseback that offers the possibility of personalized engravings and two new shades for the strap, light blue or olive green. The third model is in white gold with moon phases and retrograde calendar, antique silver dial and olive green alligator leather strap.

Quadrante color argento antico e cinturino in pelle di alligatore verde oliva — Antique silver dial and olive green alligator leather strap

The aesthetics of the Patrimony line is taken up by the typical convex dial, whose sunray finish surface adds the new antique silver tone, which gives a retro note. In the case is the manually wound caliber 1440, developed and produced by Vacheron Constantin with a thickness of just 2.6 mm. It features a 42-hour power reserve.

Attraverso il fondello in vetro zaffiro, il calibro di manifattura mostra l'emblema della Maison — Through the sapphire crystal caseback, the manufacture caliber displays the Maison’s emblem

The version with moon phases and retrograde calendar features a white gold case with a diameter of 42.5 mm with a new dial colour, while inside is the self-winding caliber 2460 R31L. There are two complications: the indication of the moon phases in a window at 6 o’clock, which is graduated to precisely correspond to the lunar cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes, and only requires correction every 122 years. The second consists of the retrograde calendar placed in the upper part of the dial: a technical and stylistic signature of Vacheron Constantin. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, the manufacture caliber displays the Maison’s emblem: a Maltese cross whose shape inspired that of the gold skeletonized oscillating weight.

Il calibro 1440 a carica manuale sviluppato e prodotto da Vacheron Constantin — The hand-wound caliber 1440 developed and produced by Vacheron Constantin

The new vintage chronograph from Angelus

Published on April 1, 2024

Orologi

Angelus Swiss watches have marked the history of hands. The company, founded in 1881 by brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz, now presents new timepieces from the La Fabrique, Instrument de Vitesse collection. They are watches that nod to classic racing chronometers, with a design inspired by the dashboard of a vintage GT. The chronograph that seems designed like the dashboard of a vintage English car, or an Italian sports car. The minimal and vintage style are synchronized: the watch has a simple seconds hand and measures a maximum time of one minute. Instrument de Vitesse targets lovers of watchmaking history and culture.

Cinturino in pelle di vitello caramello e quadrante nero ebano — Caramel calfskin strap and ebony black dial

The watch has a steel case measuring 39 millimeters in diameter, the hand-wound manufacture caliber of 4.20 millimeters has made it possible to obtain a total thickness of less than 10 millimetres. A version with an ivory white or ebony black dial is offered, in two limited editions of 25 pieces each.

Quadrante nero, di notte — Black dial, at night

A tachymetric scale marks the external surface of the dial, graduated from 60 to 500 and with a base of 1,000 (generally one kilometre), while the crown also becomes the only button on the watch, which activates the central seconds hand. The La Fabrique collection is designed to revive the classics of the Maison. Instrument de Vitesse is offered in two versions. The first, with a caramel calfskin strap, features an ebony black dial. The rhodium-plated, white and imposing applied Arabic numerals stand out. The second version is presented on a midnight blue nubuck strap. The ivory white dial is punctuated by black-rimmed indexes, which offer an incredible three-dimensionality to the Arabic numerals. The hour and minute hands are, like the indexes, embellished with luminescent material. Inside, the A5000 chronograph movement is the already proven Angelus one.

Cinturino in nabuk blu notte e quadrante bianco avorio — Midnight blue nubuck strap and ivory white dial

Homage to black by Baume & Mercier

Published on February 29, 2024

Orologi

Baume & Mercier presents the second timepiece created from one of the works of the French painter Pierre Soulages, who passed away on 26 October 2022. This new original creation, the result of an extraordinary collaboration with the painter and the Soulages museum in Rodez, pays homage to him by embodying, with strength and beauty, the intense legacy he left behind. The Hampton Polyptyque Edition-Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary model is inspired by a painting from the Outrenoirs series, titled Peinture 324 x 362 cm, 1986, Polyptyque I Edition.

Just over a year ago Baume & Mercier chose to contact the Soulages museum, an international point of reference for the work of Pierre Soulages. In 2005, the artist donated a collection of 250 works and 250 documents to the Communauté d’agglomération du Grand Rodez. The museum was created precisely to accommodate this donation: it is an extension of the painter’s atelier and an expression of the legacy of the Aveyron, to which he was so attached.

In spring 2021, Pierre Soulages and his wife Colette invited the Baume & Mercier team to their villa in Sète, who were immediately fascinated by the artist’s simplicity and availability. Soulages arouses immediate empathy beyond the talent that distinguishes him. The curator of the museum was also present at the meeting and all participants were warmly welcomed. Pierre Soulages suggested a display of the time as invisible as possible and proves to be an available and generous guide in the horological interpretation of his pictorial universe. The painting that inspired the clock face is taken from this series. Peinture 324 x 362 cm, 1986, Polyptyque I is an oil on canvas measuring 324 x 362 cm, a gigantic polyptych composed of four overlapping elements measuring 81 x 362 cm, exhibited at the Soulages museum in Rodez.

Hampton Polyptyque Edition-Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary

The Hampton Collection
Heir to a model from the Maison dating back to the 1960s and inspired by the Art Deco of the 1920s, the watch is a significant homage to art and has embodied, since its launch in 1994, the watch of form par excellence dear to Baume & Mercier . The sober and minimalist design elegantly enhances the work depicted in the smallest details, acting as a frame for the vertical and horizontal overlays that make up the painting and decorate the dial.

From the exploration of black to the transposition of light, the challenge involves great technical and aesthetic complexity, which required innovative 3D printing technologies. The miniaturization of a work of such considerable dimensions, which consists in reproducing a 324 x 362 cm painting on a 48.11 x 31 mm case with a thickness of 10 mm, requires a level of skill and technique that makes the particularly exciting project for the Baume & Mercier teams. The use of laser-cut brass and stones from the Levant has created a widespread matt finish. The use of an electroplating process made it possible to color the dial with electrolysis on a thickness of 0.2 microns. Furthermore, a semi-matt protective lacquer with a thickness of 10 microns was used. Thanks to these materials and processes it was possible to free the volume, shape the material and sublimate the alternation of shadow and light.
The dial of the Hampton Polyptyque Edition – Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary watch is a black composition that recalls the texture of the painting, in which vertical and oblique traces alternate, and gives strength to all the visual variations of the work. The hour and minute hands, also black, end with 750/1000 rose gold hemispheres, a choice by the artist who expresses his creative strength and figurative vision of time.

la cassa in acciaio-DLC è stata microsabbiata e poi trattata con la deposizione Pacvd — The steel-DLC case was micro-sandblasted and then treated with Pacvd deposition

Rectangular in shape, the DLC-steel case was micro-sandblasted and then treated with Pacvd deposition (plasma-assisted chemical vapor deposition) of a layer of hydrogenated amorphous carbon ions 2 microns thick, to give it a hardness of 6,000 Vickers. It is protected by a scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal that has been treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides. The Baume & Mercier signature is made through a metallization process under sapphire crystal. Above the caseback, also protected by sapphire crystal and secured with four screws, the words Hommage à Pierre Soulages n° xxx/328 are engraved.

Il quadrante dell’orologio Hampton Polyptyque Edition – Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary è una composizione di colore nero che riprende la trama del dipinto — The dial of the Hampton Polyptyque Edition – Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary watch is a black composition that reflects the texture of the painting

A Swiss self-winding mechanical movement (ETA 2892) powers this timepiece with refined finishes, such as the bridge with perlage decoration. Visible through the transparent case back, the black oscillating weight is decorated with Côtes de Genève motifs. In addition to displaying hours and minutes, the watch offers a power reserve of 42 hours and a water resistance of up to 5 ATM (approximately 50 m). The watch is completed by a cellulose strap, internally lined with apple fibre.

Pierre Soulages, Peinture 324 x 362 cm, 1986, Polyptyque I Edition

Jewelry watches from Hublot

Published on January 31, 2024

Orologi

Watchmaking and jewellery: Hublot has created the Spirit of Big Bang Jewellery, watches with stones and rainbow shades, alongside the gold classics. A total of six 32mm cases. They are made of white gold, King Gold (18-carat alloy developed by the Maison, hotter than 5N gold) or stainless steel. In these variations, Hublot combines its innovative and atypical approach with the feminine. The clock is entirely covered in stones. The timepiece also has six H-shaped titanium screws, the self-winding manufacture movement, the unique sandwich case construction that allows for countless combinations and materials, the comfortable interchangeable bracelets with deployment clasp.

Hublot, the watchmaking brand of the LVMH group, also presents MP-10 Tourbillon Linear Weight, the new Manufacture Pieces number 10: it has no dial, no hands, no oscillating weight. The display proceeds by rollers, has a circular power reserve and a self-winding inclined tourbillon with two linear masses. The watch immediately stands out: it features beveled corners and avant-garde design. The mechanism is protected by a curved sapphire crystal of unusual complexity. Form and substance merge. Mechanical power and aesthetics are one. The new MP-10 Tourbillon Linear Weight is a collector’s watch for those who want a timepiece out of the ordinary.

Hublot_Mp-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System_910.Nx.0001.Rx-Pf-Hr-W-3d-Original — Hublot Mp 10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System

Hublot also presented Big Bang Unico Green, a new version of its Saxem, a material that has greater resistance and brightness than sapphire glass, with which it shares some characteristics. Sapphire is composed of aluminum oxide, to which metal oxides are added for pigmentation. In contrast, Saxem’s color is created with the addition of rare earth elements. Sapphire has a trigonal (three-surface) structure, while Saxem is cubic (four-surface). Hublot has also decided to integrate manufacturing into its production process and the research and development department plays a fundamental operational role. This philosophy has been applied for over 15 years, from the inauguration of the Nyon Manufacture in 2009 until today.

For those who love pop colors, here is a skeletonized tourbillon resulting from the collaboration between Hublot and the sculptor Richard Orlinski. The timepiece boasts a five-day power reserve. the French artist is a successful artist, while the Swiss brand has been among the most innovative in watchmaking for over 20 years. Two models: one yellow and one blue. The color expands across all the components, starting from the case to the strap, passing through the bezel, hands and indexes. The beating heart of this model is the HUB6021 manually wound movement, among the most loved by fans of the brand. Its components, including the crown and the six H-shaped screws positioned on the bezel, appear to be suspended in midair on black skeletonized bridges made with the PVD technique. Positioned between 8 and 9 o’clock, the charge indicator shows the 5 days of reserve. At 6 o’clock, however, the tourbillon allows time to flow undisturbed. Thanks to the sapphire crystal covering the front and back of the case, the Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski reflects light from any angle.

Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski

The Vo Vintage program

Published on January 14, 2024

Orologi

Together with Vicenzaoro January, Vo Vintage returns (19-22 January), an event open to the public dedicated to vintage watches and jewellery. Instead, Time takes place inside Vicenzaoro: also in this case it is about watchmaking, but it is reserved for operators.
Vo Vintage brings together retailers and enthusiasts, but also offers a series of updating opportunities in which dealers, associations, brands and enthusiast forums such as Watchhouse participate. For the first time, the event also includes an in-depth look at the world of vintage jewelery in a meeting with Manuel Menini, collector and founder of Vincent Vintage Bijoux in Milan and Federica Frosini, director of VO+ Jewelery Magazine. The link between watchmaking and jewelery will be at the center of the talk with Carlotta Parmegiani, PR & events specialist Monaco Legend Group, and Laura Inghirami, founder & creative director Donna Jewel and Andrea Casalegno. The Milanese goldsmith art between luxury, fashion, history and art will be the focus of the Gem Talk with Paola Venturelli, scientific director of the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation, and Loredana Prosperi, director of IGI, Italian Gemological Institute. Finally, Stones and diamonds, between collecting and vintage is the theme of the talk moderated by Paolo Gobbi with Paolo Paolillo, administrator of Paolillo 1880, Andrea Falcioni, administrator of DiamonDiamonD, and Claudia Gobbi, designer and teacher of jewelery illustration.

Espositori a Vo Vintage 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Exhibitors at Vo Vintage 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For watchmaking, however, a meeting is planned with Giulio Papi, one of the most important collectors and historians of timepieces, who will talk about the ultra complication of Audemars Piguet (Saturday 20 January), with Michele Mengoli and Jacopo Giudici, respectively director and founder of Watch Insanity, Enrico Zazzali, editor of Revolution Italia, and watchmaker Massimiliano Barricelli.

Immagini di orologi a Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Images of watches at Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com

At Vo Vintage, EveryWatch will be presented, a platform for aspiring collectors and veterans of hands, with Giovanni Prigigallo, co-founder & head of business development EveryWatch. Vintage watchmaking is at the center of a focus with Bruno Bergamaschi (Giorgione), Micol Bozino, watch editor, and Stefano Mazzariol, writer, dealer and expert on vintage Rolexes. The fake industry will instead be the topic addressed by Ugo Pancani, professor of mechanical and electronic watchmaking and trainer of the Fondation de la Haute Horologerie, together with Carlo Maria Ceppi, Panerai heritage curator, and Paolo Della Giorgia, legal expert and auditor.

Un'immagine di Vo Vintage 2021 — An image from Vo Vintage

The market trends will be presented in a talk with Elvio Piva, Tempus Orologi of Padua, Roberto Verde, Goldfingers Orologi of Verona, Stefano Mazzariol, Vintage Watches of Livorno and Maurizio De Angelis, Deangelis Fine Watches of Milan and Forte dei Marmi. Locman, a Made in Italy brand, will be the protagonist of the meeting dedicated to its brand on Friday 19 January, with a talk in which it will present the latest news and to discuss the role of Italian watchmaking with Marco Mantovani, president of Locman, Admiral Lorenzano Di Renzo, commander of the Naval Academy of Livorno, Alessandro Cicognani, licensing and corporate partnership director of Ducati, Alessia Crivelli, general director of Crivelli Gioielli, and Sandro Fratini, owner of the L’O brand. Angelic Belvedere. Another meeting, however, has as its theme The Rome of watchmaking is increasingly vintage, with interventions by Paolo Gobbi, journalist and director of Handmade magazine, watch-expert for Il Messaggero and Esquire, and Alessandro Salvatore, director of The Loft/ Hausmann & Co.

Orologi a Vo Vintage — Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com

It’s India time for Swiss watches

Published on November 3, 2023

Orologi

The purchase of watches is increasing in India

India, a country with punctual growth like a Swiss watch. This is what emerges from a report by the consultancy giant Deloitte. According to the analysis entitled Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2023, the Swiss watch industry sets new export records and confirms its significant transformation. After a strong 2022, with watch exports rising to an unprecedented level of almost 25 billion Swiss francs, strong growth continued in the first eight months of this year. Despite the boom in e-commerce, 62% of brands expect in-store sales to dominate over the next five years and plan to expand their retail operations. And in this panorama, India is the market with strong potential for the coming years. In the first eight months of 2023, the subcontinent recorded an above-average increase in sales of 18% and is expected to enter the top ten Swiss export markets within a decade.

Gioielli di Salvini, Bulgari, orologio Rolex — Jewelery by Salvini, Bulgari, Rolex watch

Exports
Switzerland’s top ten export markets continued their growth trajectory in the first eight months of 2023. The United States, however, remained the most important market for Swiss watches, with exports reaching almost 2.7 billion Swiss francs and an increase of almost 10% compared to 2022.
China also saw similar growth of 9.3% over the same period, but exports are still 7.5% below 2021 levels. Watch industry executives have mixed views on China, with forecasts of growth and decline equally divided. Of the 75 executives surveyed, nearly four in ten said that lost sales volumes due to reduced travel by Asian consumers had impacted their business over the past 12 months.

Advertising di Cristiano Ronaldo per Tag Heuer — Advertising by Cristiano Ronaldo for Tag Heuer

2024
When asked about the outlook for the next 12 months, the majority of Swiss watch industry executives considered the outlook optimistic for both the Swiss economy (60%) and its main export markets (59%). However, compared to economic forecasts, the industry is less confident about its prospects than it was a year ago. Only half of participants reported feeling positive (compared to 57% in 2022), while a quarter responded feeling negative. Most executives cited geopolitical uncertainty (84%), followed by inflation and the cost of living crisis (both at 69%) as the main reasons for this sentiment. For the following year, top managers consider the shortage of qualified personnel as an important risk factor. Furthermore, suppliers have stated that they want to increase both production capacity and the number of employees in Switzerland.

Orologi Hublot. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Hublot watches. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Analog and digital
Direct, in-person contact between watch brands and their end consumers through physical stores, pop-up outlets and watch fairs remains key. Consumers mainly buy watches in stores to touch, test and try them on (52%), while 43% prefer contact with sales staff. In particular, the relational element and human contact are relevant for European consumers: Switzerland (51%), France (49%), Italy and Germany (both 48%). Most brands and retailers (62%) agree that offline sales will continue to outpace online sales over the next five years, with differences by price segment. In general, the more expensive the watch, the more likely the customer is to purchase it offline. Most brands invest in growing their retail space, whether in flagship stores or multi-brand outlets.

Revenge of the fairs
In a digitalized world, watch fairs still remain extremely important: nine out of ten executives consider them crucial for connecting with potential customers and expanding their audience base. «The electrifying atmosphere of watch fairs and auctions, and the experience of the spirit of the brand in-store, cannot be replicated in the digital space. However, with personalized recommendations and instant purchases via connected apps and mobile payment options, social selling will become a key sub-channel for the industry. Already well established in Asia, social commerce transforms screen time into a rewarding and shoppable experience,” says Karine Szegedi, Consumer and Fashion & Luxury sector leader at Deloitte Switzerland.

Aumenta la disponibilità economica degli indiani — The economic availability of Indians increases

India on the rise
Executives overwhelmingly identify India as the next major growth market for the watch industry, with the country becoming the most cited answer to this question for the first time. In the first eight months of 2023, India recorded healthy growth in exports, with the value reaching 133.7 million Swiss francs, an increase of 18.5% compared to the same period last year and a increase of almost 60% compared to the first eight months of 2021.
Consumer responses provide some insight into why. Of those surveyed, 94% of participants in India were more likely to wear a watch, a percentage that was only matched by the United Arab Emirates. While current statistics place India only 22nd in the world for Swiss watch exports in terms of value, the industry believes this will change. «India is a fascinating market. The consumer base is not only large, but is also increasingly affluent and appreciates luxury, qualities that are attracting the attention of the industry. By 2028, we expect export sales of Swiss watches to India to reach over 400 million Swiss francs. And we believe that India will enter the top 10 Swiss export markets within a decade,” explains Szegedi.

Alta orologeria Piaget — Piaget fine watchmaking

The hour of sustainability
As in previous years, sustainability remains crucial to the watch industry, but the motivation has changed, adds Szegedi: «The survey reveals a crucial shift. Sustainability has moved from a consumer-driven demand to an industry-driven mission. Over two-thirds of participants indicate that sustainability is part of their business strategy, and they are investing in areas such as circularity or governance structures.” For brands, certified ethical gold (86%), recycled materials (76%) and leather alternatives (74%) will play a very important or important role in the next five years. 34% would choose a watch produced by a brand focused on sustainability, while only 25% would prefer a brand that focuses on its image.

A new Bucintoro sets sail with Venezianico

Published on October 26, 2023

Orologi

The Bucintoro was the state galley of the Doges of the Republic of Venice, on which they embarked every year on Ascension Day to celebrate the rite of the marriage of the Sea. But Bucintoro is also the name of a watch model by Venezianico, an Italian watchmaking brand inspired by the atmosphere of the magical city on the water: the logo, for example, is inspired by the cross placed on the top of the Clock Tower in Piazza San Marco. Now Venezianico presents the evolution of the chronograph inspired by the iconic vessel of the Doges.

The image of the vessel is engraved on the case back, to underline the choice to combine tradition and innovation, like a caliber of extreme precision. The 42mm case, thinner than the previous version, features new proportions, which enhance the elegance of the watch, with a thickness of just 11.7mm. Added to this is the complex sapphire crystal with a double convexity of 1.9mm, which contributes to making the new Bucintoro more harmonious and comfortable on the wrist.

The watch is available in two color schemes: Panda and Reverse Panda. In the first version there is a white dial with black counters and tachymeter ring. In the second, the dial is black, with silver counters and a black tachymeter ring. Inside is the NE88 movement, the most modern chronograph caliber from Seiko, with three counters measuring minutes, seconds and chronograph hours which, in addition to precision, is equipped with a column wheel and vertical coupling, an exclusive feature of Seiko’s chronographs. high range.

Bucintoro Reverse Panda, quadrante — Bucintoro Reverse Panda, clock dial

Two models are equipped with the Canova steel bracelet, while two others wear Italian-crafted leather straps. Furthermore, a rubber strap can be purchased separately, for a sportier version. Price: 1595 euros.

Bucintoro specifications

Case material: 316l steel
Dimensions: ø42 mm, from handle to handle 49.00 mm
Movement: Seiko ne88, automatic
Functions: chronograph
Features: column wheel, vertical clutch
Glass: double-domed sapphire crystal
Luminous pigment: bgw9 Super-Luminova
Bezel: 316L stainless steel
Water resistance: 10atm (=100 meters)
Strap: real leather, handmade in Italy
Bracelet: Canova

Classic Fusion High Jewellery, hours with diamonds

Published on October 20, 2023

Orologi

High Jewelery that Tells the Hours: The Classic Fusion High Jewelery 2023 from Hublot is a white gold watch set with 431 baguette-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 14.6 carats. The model sits alongside famous jewel watches, such as the Big Bang, the Spirit of Big Bang and the Square Bang Unico. The Classic Fusion High Jewelery 42 mm combines sophisticated gem-setting techniques with watchmaking skill, with a design that symbolized its birth in 1980.

L'orologio in oro bianco con 431 diamanti taglio baguette, per un totale di circa 14,6 carati — The white gold watch with 431 baguette-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 14.6 carats

Precious stones adorn the case, bezel, dial and clasp. The 241 diamonds on the dial required 120 hours of work, the equivalent of three weeks of full-time work. Another 60 diamonds are set around the bezel. The 42 mm case houses 94 baguette-cut diamonds and houses the HUB1710 caliber, observable from the back of the watch through the sapphire crystal. The automatic movement oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 changes per hour), offering a power reserve of 50 hours.

Cinturino in caucciù nero strutturato a righe e alligatore, chiusura déployante impreziosita da 36 diamanti taglio baguette. — Structured black rubber strap with stripes and alligator, folding clasp embellished with 36 baguette-cut diamonds

This luminous model aims to pay homage to Hublot’s tradition by fusing the artistic creativity of jewelery and the mastery of fine watchmaking: the result is a work of art that is both a watch and a jewel.
Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot

The watchmaking of this caliber is perfect in every single detail: even the striped and alligator textured black rubber strap boasts a folding clasp embellished with 36 baguette-cut diamonds. In all, the setting of the 431 diamonds required over 200 hours of work and makes this extraordinary creation the perfect fusion of fine watchmaking and artisanal jewellery.

Cassa da 42 mm, con 94 diamanti taglio baguette. Racchiude il calibro HUB1710, — 42 mm case, set with 94 baguette-cut diamonds. It houses the HUB1710 caliber

It’s WatchTime New York time

Published on October 7, 2023

news

Luxury watches in New York. WatchTime New York returns from 20 to 22 October 2023, with an event dedicated to enthusiasts. At Gotham Hall, Midtown Manhattan, it will be time for new and rare watches from more than 30 leading brands. The three-day WatchTime New York also includes engaging talks and round tables. The event kicks off with an exclusive VIP cocktail party and show on Friday 20 October, followed by two days of scheduled panels, CEO roundtables and brand presentations from Saturday 21 October until Sunday 22 October.

New York watch brands participating in WatchTime 2023 include Armin Strom, Arnold & Son, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Bovet, Breguet, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Chopard, Chronoswiss, Cyrus, Czapek, Frederique Constant, G- Shock, Gerald Charles, Glashütte Original, Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie, HYT, Laurent Ferrier, Louis Erard, MB&F, Moritz Grossmann, Norqain, Oris, Parmigiani Fleurier, Perrelet, Piaget, RGM, Roger Dubuis, Speake-Marin, Voutilainen and Zeitwinkel.

WatchTime New York
Gotham Hall, 1356 Broadway, New York, NY 10018
20-22 October 2023
• FRIDAY 20 OCTOBER: Exclusive cocktail party and watch show.
• SATURDAY OCTOBER 21: Full day show with scheduled panels, CEO roundtables and presentations.
• SUNDAY 22 OCTOBER: Full day show with panels and presentations throughout the day.
Tickets available now at Watchtime Events
• VIP All-Access Tickets ($189): Ticket includes exclusive access to the entire weekend event, including Friday’s VIP opening night cocktail party and Saturday and Sunday drop-offs
• Day tickets for Saturday or Sunday ($39 per day)
Industry panels will be presented Saturday and Sunday at 12pm and 2pm. Engaging 2023 WatchTime New York panel topics include:
• Watch brand collaborations: moderated by Jeff Kingston;
• Return of the Dress Watch: Moderated by Jeff Kingston;
• Time for Sustainability: Moderated by WatchTime Editor-in-Chief Roger Ruegger;
• A New Day – Trends in Collecting for Men and Women: Moderated by Bilal Khan (Senior Editor) and Sara Orlando (Editor) of WatchTime.
WatchTime New York 2023 is proudly presented in collaboration with Wempe.

Piaget luxury returns with Limelight Gala

Published on September 21, 2023

Orologi

A great classic of haute horlogerie returns, a small jewel that also marks the hours: Piaget Limelight Gala. Piaget also defines this model as more of a jewel than a watch. Launched in 1969, the 21st Century Collection is a historic collection. According to enthusiasts, it marked the convergence between watchmaking and jewelry, thanks to the development of the 9P in 1957, a hand-wound mechanical movement just 2 millimeters thick. The dials of wristwatches and Swinging Sautoirs were covered with brightly colored ornamental stones (malachite, opal, lapis lazuli, tiger’s eye) and paired with textured solid gold bracelets. In 1973, just four years after the iconic 21st Century Collection, Piaget gave shape to the collection that would later become the Limelight Gala.

The watch is recognizable by its generous curves and asymmetrical bezel lugs, set with precious stones, with one side extending upwards and the other downwards. The name Limelight Gala, however, dates back to its debut in 1973. The collection was given this name only retrospectively, given its extraordinary history. From the moment it was created, the watch has been seen worn at receptions, parties, balls, dinners and galas on the wrists of famous women and men, such as Cary Grant, Sammy Davis Jr., Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy, Ursula Andress and Andy Warhol.

Piaget Limelight Gala in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri, pietre semi preziose — Piaget Limelight Gala in white gold, diamonds, sapphires, semi-precious stones

Limelight Gala still retains its charm even in 2023. It is made with gold threads woven into a Milanese mesh, ensuring a smooth finish and second-skin feel. It is sculpted, sometimes like a chain, sometimes like the finest flowing fabric. There’s still an explosion of color on the dial, while the bezel is generously wrapped in perfectly matched stones. Malachite, lapis lazuli, or kaleidoscopic opal are finished with white diamonds. Enamel and sapphires shine in shades of blue and green. The fantasy of the design also emerges in the double rows of stones in a scale of rainbow shades or adorned with flamboyant marquise-cut diamonds.

Pubblicità del 1969 — Advertisement from 1969

Piaget Limelight Gala in oro e diamanti bianchi — Piaget Limelight Gala in gold and white diamonds

Vacheron Constantin celebrates Darwin

Published on September 18, 2023

Orologi

Nature’s hour strikes with Vacheron Constantin. But not only. Because the four Métiers d’Art limited editions are inspired by the scientific epic of the naturalists who embarked on the Beagle, the English brig that hosted Charles Darwin, who wrote The Voyage of the Beagle, at the beginning of 1830. A journey that changed the history of science and nature. The series comprises four horological tableaus, at the crossroads of science and art, miniature engraving and enamel masterpieces powered by the in-house caliber 1120 AT/1 with satellite wandering hours.

Le quattro edizioni limitate Métiers d'Art — The four limited editions Métiers d’Art

This series is the sequel to the 1994 Mercator timepiece (homage to the mathematician, cartographer and geographer Gerardus Mercator), the Métiers d’Art Homage to the Great Explorers series, the last examples of which were presented in 2021, and the Métiers d’Art series les Aérostiers of 2018, created to commemorate the conquest of the skies. During the adventurous journey around the world, between 1831 and 1836, naturalists were able to observe fabulous plants
bright-leafed tropical plants, colorful birds of paradise, exotic butterflies, groves of flowering trees and fruit trees and a fascinating variety of animals.

La lavorazione con lo smalto — Working with enamel

To create these new limited editions made up of ten pieces, Vacheron Constantin has chosen to combine two métiers: the master engraver, who creates the curves and depth effects of the decoration with precision to the tenth of a millimetre, and the master enameler, who uses fire and pigments. Four days of work are needed to bring to life the scenes that animate the 41 mm diameter white or rose gold case, whose silhouette, characterized by a very thin bezel and screwed lugs, is inspired by the watches produced by Vacheron Constantin over the years Eighties and nineties of the last century.

Il calibro 1120 AT1 è visibile attraverso il fondello in vetro zaffiro

On the watches the ship is depicted returning to Europe, skirting the African coast near the Cape of Good Hope: the passage has been used by navigators since the end of the 15th century, and is visible in the enamel miniature of the maritime scene presented in the lower part of the dial. A landscape recalls that observed by naturalists when they stopped at the Cape of Good Hope. The delicate plumage of birds perched among the leaves is coordinated with the languid silhouette of an iguana: a naturalistic scene to be observed at the heart of the 41 mm diameter rose gold case. The caliber 1120 AT/1 is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. The strap is made of green Mississipiensis alligator leather and a rose gold folding clasp.

Disegno preparatorio — Preparatory drawing

Métiers d’Art Homage to naturalist explorers
References 7500U/000G-B991: Cape Verde – 1
7500U/000R-B992: Strait of Magellan – 2
Caliber 1120 AT/1
Developed and produced by Vacheron Constantin
Automatic mechanical
22 carat gold oscillating weight with tapisserie decoration
28mm (12 lines ó) in diameter, 5.45mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)
205 components
36 rubies
Timepieces certified by the Hallmark of Geneva
Continuous display of hours and minutes
White gold/rose gold case
41mm in diameter, 11.68mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Waterproofness tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approximately 30 metres)
White gold dial, on two levels, miniature on Grand Feu enamel
Hand engraved with gold application
Strap Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator lining, hand stitched,
stitched, large square scales
Pin buckle in white gold/rose gold
Polished half Maltese cross
Limited series consisting of ten timepieces per reference.
Models available exclusively in Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

Uccelli appollaiati tra le foglie sul quadrante dell'orologio — Birds perched among the leaves on the clock face

By Baume & Mercier a Riviera with perpetual calendar

Published on September 14, 2023

Orologi

The Riviera watch by Baume & Mercier turns 50. After the relaunch in 2021 with a fifth generation, the symbolic timepiece of the Maison arrived in two years with different versions (three hands, diving, chronograph, moon phase, GMT) proposed in different sizes (from 33 to 43 mm in diameter), always with 12-sided bezel. Baume & Mercier now presents a Riviera in a 40 mm diameter steel version in a limited edition of 50 pieces, equipped with a manufacture watchmaking complication considered among the most valuable of all: the perpetual calendar. A movement known for its performance and one of the most fascinating watchmaking complications, this Riviera Perpetual Calendar translates the modern and recognizable vision of the Maison’s savoir-faire.

The 50th anniversary marks half a century since the debut, in 1973, of the Baume & Mercier model: the Riviera. The steel case and twelve-sided bezel represent a different style from that of classic watchmaking. The watch appeals to those looking for casual originality and sporty elegance. At the time, the so-called classic watches were almost all made of gold, while Baume & Mercier chose steel, for a sporty and elegant style. That the name Riviera evokes the nautical activities of the French Riviera and its social life.

L'orologio ha una riserva di carica di 120 ore — The watch has a power reserve of 120 hours

The model is the result of the work of watch designer Jean-Claude Gueit, a contemporary of Gérald Genta. Considered the first sporty-chic watch with a universal vocation, the Riviera has always challenged preconceptions. And with the Perpetual Calendar version, Baumatic indicates that fine watchmaking can marry style and informality. The new model has a steel case measuring 40 mm in diameter and just 11.8 mm thick. It is equipped with a Baumatic manufacture movement with Dubois-Dépraz module, five-day power reserve and the finest watchmaking finishes: bridges with perlage decoration, sandblasted mainplate finished with colimaçon motifs, golden oscillating weight perfectly matched to the color of the dial and perforated with Côtes de Genève decorations with colimaçon finish, exclusive Baume & Mercier engraving.

In 2023 for its 50th anniversary, the Maison reinterprets the Riviera Baumatic model with the launch of the Riviera 50th Anniversary Special Edition, limited to 273 pieces. The special edition stands out for discreet details, such as the date 1973 placed like a secret signature on the transparent blue sapphire crystal dial, the Maison’s Phi logo on the counterweight of the second hand and a blue ring in the center of the case that gives even more refinement to the timepiece.

La data 1973 apposta come una firma segreta — The date 1973 affixed as a secret signature

The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal is subjected to an anti-reflective treatment on both sides and the bezel, in polished and sunray-brushed stainless steel, is secured by four polished screws. Each example also has a special engraving with the Limited Edition numbering. The flagship model of the collection, the Riviera Perpetual Calendar Baumatic recalls the historic timepiece from 1985, characterized then by a complete calendar with indication of the date, day, month and moon phases. While inspired by the past, it looks decisively to the future: the great harmony of the dial harks back to the golden times of the history of watchmaking. The golden color with a vertical satin finish and diamond edge around the counters, to underline the functions of the dial with vintage accents, creates a direct relationship between yesterday and today, laying the foundations for the future. The indexes are riveted and rhodium-plated. The skeletonized hour and minute hands, also rhodium-plated, are stylishly paired with a blued steel hand with a counterweight in the shape of the Phi symbol and polished and blued steel subdial hands. The moon phase disc is shiny gold and blue. Accompanied by a reworked three-row integrated steel bracelet with decorative bevels on the central link, this model is equipped with the exclusive and highly reliable strap interchangeability system that allows you to change style in a few seconds without special tools.

Ogni esemplare ha anche un’incisione speciale con la numerazione della Limited Edition — Each example also has a special engraving with the Limited Edition numbering

Riviera 10742
AUTOMATIC WATCH, PERPETUAL CALENDAR – 40 MM
MOVEMENT
Swiss Made
Automatic winding
Frequency 28800.0vph/4.0hz
Power reserve: 120 hours
Rubies 21
EARNINGS
Dodecagonal shape
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness 11.84 mm
Steel, satin polished
Closed caseback, Chassé
CLOCK FACE
Hands Grey, Dauphine
BRACELET
Polished satin steel
WATERPROOF
50 meters
PRICE
€19,500

Two new colors for the Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80

Published on September 12, 2023

Orologi

Tissot offers new versions of the PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 collection. The two new models are available in Ice Blue and Total Gold colors. The PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 Ice Blue offers a honeycomb dial. Each watch is equipped with a Powermatic 80 automatic movement, which offers an 80-hour power reserve. This component is enclosed in a 35 mm steel body, with polished and satin finishes. The dials, with the characteristic honeycomb pattern, distinguish these automatic models, marking a significant differentiation from the quartz versions and adding an unmistakable sophistication.

The watches also feature a date display at the 3 o’clock position, housed in a bevelled, applied window, highlighting the meticulous attention to detail. The indices, as well as the hour and minute baton hands, are coated with Super-LumiNova, a brand under which non-radioactive and non-toxic photoluminescent or afterglow pigments based on strontium aluminate are marketed to illuminate the signs on the dials in the dark , ensuring visibility even in low light conditions. The bezel is in polished steel, the crown engraved, the sapphire crystal. The watch is waterproof up to 100 meters (10 atmospheres).

The PRX Digital model, however, is offered in three different variants, including one entirely with a gold PVD surface and a steel option with a black or silver dial. All models are available in 35mm and 40mm diameters. The watch is equipped with a Swiss Made DGT-2040 digital quartz movement and a mirrored sapphire crystal that gives it a retro-futuristic appeal.

Tissot PRX Digital Pvd indossato — Tissot PRX Digital Pvd worn

Watches and Wonders date set

Published on August 31, 2023

Orologi

Watches and Wonders Geneva has set the event date for 2024. Watches and Wonders is an event dedicated to fine watchmaking, but which has also attracted part of the jewelery world (a not too happy relationship, however). After the first edition in 2022, an event that replaced the Sihh, Salon international de la haute horlogerie, Rolex, Richemont and Patek Philippe created the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF), a non-profit foundation based in Geneva . The organizers have chosen a program divided into two parts for the Show, which is also open to the general public.

The next edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva will be held from 9 to 15 April 2024 again at the Halles de Palexpo in Geneva. The general public will be able to attend the event during a long three-day weekend, from Saturday to Monday inclusive, while the press and industry visitors will have access to the Show throughout the week. The program will once again be divided into two parts: Palexpo and In the City, with an evening event on Thursday 11 April in the heart of the city. The aim is to involve Genevans and local operators even more in this great watchmaking event.

The brands participating in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 will be announced at a later date, along with the full programme. Meanwhile, the Show opens its doors to the Shanghai edition (13 to 17 September 2023) with, for the first time, two days dedicated to the general public. Visitors will be able to access the collections and latest watches from the 14 exhibiting Maisons, as well as numerous workshops, conferences and a tailor-made programme. Also in this case the first three days will still be reserved for professionals, retailers and the press, by invitation only. The Auditorium programme, conferences and panels, will be broadcast live and replayed online via WeChat, the Chinese social messaging platform. The Show will host visitors on two floors: the 14 exhibiting brands will all be grouped on the ground floor, while the first floor will offer a cultural and educational space.

The time of watches with VO’Clock Privé

Published on July 28, 2023

Orologi

Together with Vicenzaoro (September 8-12) the time of watches returns. The idea of combining the large jewelery fair with a space for timepieces was confirmed by Ieg, the company that organizes the event. VO’Clock Privé (September 8-10), dedicated to watchmaking culture, is back. Unlike Vicenzaoro, VO’Clock Privé is open to all the public, experts and collectors. As in previous editions, exhibitors will be in the foyer on the first floor of the fairgrounds. The appointment alternates with the VO Vintage format, declined on the vintage watch. Within Vicenzaoro, Time is also confirmed, an area dedicated to watchmaking, but reserved (like the rest of Vicenzaoro) for operators.

Orologi a VO’Clock Privé — Watches at VO’Clock Privé. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The September edition of VO’Clock Privé offers itself as a platform for sharing and learning in the world of timepieces, through comparison and exchange between amateurs, experts and professionals in the sector. In addition to the exhibitors, there will be speeches by Tudor in conversation with Ander Ugarte, Head of Design of the house, talks by Zenith and Hublot, appointments with opinion leaders, collectors and watchmaking personalities such as Beppe Ambrosini and Bruno Bergamaschi (Giorgione). Also on the agenda is the event Italian watchmaking and its future hosted by Ugo Pancani, trainer of the Genevan FHH, with Sandro Fratini, Auro Montanari, Marco Mantovani. Technical sessions of the Zenith Watch Clinic under the guidance of expert watchmakers will serve to reveal the secrets of haute horlogerie.

Ingresso al foyer. Copyrigt: gioiellis.com — Entrance to the foyer. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The educational program offers tools and preparation for understanding the secrets and facets of watchmaking. Among the most awaited events, the official courses of the authoritative Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva stand out, among these the Watch Essential Course, open to enthusiasts of all levels who want a solid and complete knowledge base, also useful for embarking on a career in the haute horlogerie, and a new in-depth course on one of the most fascinating complications: Tourbillons.

Expertise su un orologio a VO Vintage — Expertise on a watch at VO Vintage

The prestigious Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (Ahci) was present with a selection of eight master watchmakers: Andersen Genève, Ludovic Ballouard, Sinclair Harding, Vincent Calabrese, Stefan Kudoke, Matthias Naeschke, Meccaniche Orologi Milano and the applicant Marc&Darnò. Furthermore, haute horlogerie with the mechanical and artistic marvels of Luca Soprana, Romeo Ferraris and A.Favre & Fils and emerging brands with a high creative content such as Kross Studio.

The opportunities for enthusiasts to meet and try the most interesting watchmaking proposals multiply with the participation of many other brands, including Norqain, Speake Marin and Frederique Constant. The offer is completed by additional timepiece models presented by the top official dealers of the major brands with the most sought-after specimens by the public and connoisseurs.

Orologi nell'area Time di Vicenzaoro — Watches in the Vicenzaoro Time area

In Italy, the watch market is worth 2 billion euros (2022), up 9% on 2021. According to data from Assorologi and GfK, the watches purchased by the Italian consumer decreased in quantity by 5.6% compared to 2021, while they grew in value by 3.9%. The watchmaking channel, regardless of the nationality of the buyer, recorded a market of 4.3 million pieces (down by 5.8% on 2021) for a value of 1.3 billion euros (+6.5%).

Lavoro su orologi d'epoca a Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Work on period pieces at Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Watches and Wonders 2024 date set

Published on July 11, 2023

Orologi

The next edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva will be held from 9 to 15 April 2024, again in the Halles del Palexpo which is located near the international airport of the city. New for next year: the general public will be able to attend the event over a long 3-day weekend, from Saturday to Monday inclusive. Visitors from the press and industry will have access to the show throughout the week. Watches and Wonders (formerly Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) is a trade show for the international watch and jewelery industry. It is organized by the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation and major brands of haute horlogerie participate in it, such as Cartier, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tag Heuer, Piaget.

This year the event achieved a record of around 43,000 unique visitors who attended the seven-day event, almost double the number in 2022. The 2024 edition intends to build on the success of 2023, further raising the profile of Geneva as an international watchmaking destination. The program will again be developed in two parts, Palexpo and In the City, with an evening event on Thursday 11 April in the heart of the city. The aim is to involve Genevans and local actors even more in the event. The brands taking part in Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 will be announced at a later date, together with the full programme.

Goodbye battery for Breil’s Manta 1970 Solar chronographs

Published on July 9, 2023

Orologi

Watches that are not afraid of the heat. They are the Breil Manta 1970 Solar chronographs. The Manta watch collection now features a solar-powered calibre. The new Manta 1970 Solar chronograph collection focuses on the characteristics that have distinguished the watches in this collection for half a century, associating a distinctive design with a VR42 solar calibre. The light (solar or artificial) recharges the watch which therefore becomes more sustainable, since it avoids the need to change the battery.

Cassa d’acciaio di 44 mm di diametro con lunetta zigrinata, graduata e girevole unidirezionale blu e rosso — Steel case measuring 44 mm in diameter with blue and red fluted, graduated and unidirectional rotating bezel

The chronographs of the Manta 1970 collection have a 44 mm diameter steel case with a fluted, graduated and unidirectional rotating bezel available in black (TW2009), blue and red (TW2010) and blue (TW2008) with silver details, a black (TW2009) or blue (TW2010, TW2008) dial. The model with a blue dial and bezel is on sale exclusively on the Milanese company’s website.

On the dial the hours are marked by silver applied indexes, the luminescent hour and minute hands are accompanied by a red seconds hand. The chrono counters, with CD pattern, are placed at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The counter at 6 o’clock also houses the power reserve indication (L, M, H) and the word solar. At 12 o’clock the Breil logo. Among the functions, the date with magnifying glass finds space between 4 and 5 o’clock. The watches are equipped with seven-link steel bracelets with a bilux finish and a safety clasp. They have a screw-down case back and crown to guarantee water resistance up to 20 atmospheres.

L'orologio ha un datario con lente, contatori crono e indicatore della riserva di carica — The watch has a loupe date window, chrono counters and power reserve indicator

CHRONOFRAFO MANTA 1970 SOLAR Technical specifications
Case: round 44 mm in steel with screw-down crown
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating black (TW2009), blue and red (TW2010)
and blue (TW2008) with silver scale
Dial: black (TW2009) or blue (TW2010, TW2008) silver indexes,
date window with lens, chrono counters and power reserve indicator
Glass: mineral
Bracelet: 7-link bilux steel with safety clasp
Movement: Solar VR42
Case back: screw
Water resistance: 20ATM
Price: 279 Euros

Jewelery and collectible watches in Montecarlo with Artcurial

Published on July 4, 2023

news

As always, the Artcurial auction house organizes auctions in the middle of summer. And, as always, they are aimed at those who frequent the Côte d’Azur. In the Principality of Monaco, at the Hotel Hermitage in Montecarlo, auctions of watches and jewelery are scheduled from 16 to 19 July, as well as Hermès Vintage, and sculpture. Each sale will be preceded by an exhibition open to the general public.

Jaeger LeCoultre, Reverso smaltato in collaborazione con l'artista portoghese José de Guimarães — Jaeger LeCoultre, Reverso enamelled in collaboration with the Portuguese artist José de Guimarães

The Horlogerie de Collection auction will feature iconic pieces and particularly rare vintage watches. The catalog includes a Panda version of the famous Rolex Daytona, with a cream dial and black counters, a vintage piece from 1968, ref. 6239, in excellent condition, today almost impossible to find on the market. Also on sale is a Speedmaster model by Omega made especially for the Raid, the elite unit of the French police. This edition was designed in 2018 by the Parisian watchmaker Antoine de Macedo in collaboration with Omega. In 2021, again at an Artcurial auction, a similar watch was sold in favor of police orphans for the sum of 70,000 euros. Also for watches there is a brand like Jaeger LeCoultre and his Reverso, the company’s best-seller for over 90 years, which is part of a private collection, belonging to a fan of the genre. The collection includes ten original Reversos, such as a rare enamelled model, created by Jaeger LeCoultre in 2003 in collaboration with the Portuguese artist José de Guimarães.

FP JOURNE, Tourbillon Souverain - 2007, Orologio da polso in platino con secondi morti, tourbillon e riserva di carica — Fp Journe, Tourbillon Souverain – 2007, Platinum wristwatch with dead seconds, tourbillon and power reserve

A second piece, produced in 1996 in a limited edition of 25, features an enamelled miniature of a painting inspired by the Czech painter Alfons Mucha. It is estimated at 12,000-18,000 euros. A Rolex/Comex Submariner ref. 16610 supplied to Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise de Marseille will likely be one of the most sought after dive watches of the sale. It is an interesting piece for any professional watch enthusiast.

Van Cleef & Arpels, bracciale art déco a nastro in platino con zaffiri e diamanti, 1925 circa — Van Cleef & Arpels art deco ribbon bracelet in platinum with sapphires and diamonds, circa 1925

For jewels, the catalog includes pieces from important jewelery houses such as Piaget, Chopard and Van Cleef & Arpels. Under the lens, jewels such as the Mauboussin Art Déco brooch in platinum, gold, carved emeralds and diamonds from 1930 (20,000-30,000 euros), or a platinum ring with a pear-cut diamond of 8.44 carats, certified Lfg, Color I, VVS2 purity, no fluorescence, type IIa (60,000-80,000 euros). Van Cleef & Arpels, on the other hand, presents, among other things, a platinum ribbon bracelet with sapphires and diamonds, around 1925 (25,000-30,000 euros).

Anello in platino con diamante taglio a pera — Pear cut diamond ring in platinum

Orologio pendente Cartier in oro giallo e diamanti — Cartier pendant watch in yellow gold and diamonds

Hublot in tourbillon version for Only Watch

Published on July 2, 2023

Orologi

Hublot Mp 15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch

The floral arrangement is at the heart of the work of the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, who has been Hublot’s Friend of the Brand since 2020. The timepieces resulting from this collaboration have always been produced in limited editions and now there is a new creation, even more exclusive, given that it is a single copy. The watch is also unique in its structure. What distinguishes the MP-15 from any other piece created by the manufacture in its more than forty years of experience is the central tourbillon. The watch is part of the Only Watch 2023 collection. It will go on sale in September.

L'orologio è in acciaio inox lucido, con 444 pietre colorate — The watch is in polished stainless steel, with 444 colored stones

Only Watch was born in 2005 and our manufacture was founded just four years later, in 2009. We belong to the same generation. We have grown rapidly and set new standards in our respective sectors: Hublot in fine watchmaking and Only Watch in philanthropy. When Luc Pettavino, founder of Only Watch, needs us, we are there. Hublot has never shirked its moral and social obligations, and never will.
Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot

Only Watch is the initiative created in 2005 by Luc Pettavino, under the high patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco. A collection of watches from different brands is being auctioned to raise funds for Duchenne muscular dystrophy research.

Il meccanismo tourbillon dell'orologio — The tourbillon mechanism of the watch

Hublot’s first central tourbillon
The idea of the new watch is to physically bring haute horlogerie back to center stage, but also to show that the tourbillon at the heart of the watch represents both the heart of the person who buys it at the auction in support of Duchenne dystrophy research.

When designing this watch, Takashi Murakami explicitly requested the integration of a central tourbillon. A challenge in itself, because it would have been Hublot’s very first central tourbillon, but also because it becomes very complicated to indicate the hours and minutes that vie for the same central position.
In this design, it was necessary to rotate the pinion and the hour wheel around the tourbillon holder, creating a coaxial structure. This was made possible by the central flying tourbillon which appears to be suspended in mid-air, with two hands passing under the cage to indicate the hours and minutes.

Il motivo fiore di Takashi Murakami — Takashi Murakami’s flower motif

These hands gravitate towards 12 luminescent indexes that recall the colors of the 2023 edition of the Hublot for Only Watch, maintaining the same proportions required by the design, so loved by Murakami and which the Hublot Research and Development department had to follow to the letter. Thanks to the two barrels, the manual movement offers a power reserve of 150 hours (almost a whole week), a very rare feature for this type of construction. These generously proportioned barrels, mounted in series, but in a single plane: they are visible through the all-sapphire caseback.

Outside, the 12 petals are embellished with 444 colored stones. As in a real flower, the petals are angled towards the center of the movement. The clear and decisive color demarcations are representative of the Only Watch 2023. The idea was not to offer the traditional gradient effect of the rainbow, but rather to play with the luminosity of the tones and the brilliance of the stones,

MP-15 TAKASHI MURAKAMI TOURBILLON ONLY WATCH
EARNINGS
MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch
915.JX.4802.RT.1198.OWM23
Polished sapphire crystal
Polished titanium screws
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 13.4mm
Water resistance: 30m
Polished sapphire crystal
Polished stainless steel, with 444 colored stones
Black plated applique elements with colored SuperLuminova
HUB9015
Manual winding central tourbillon
Frequency (Hz): 3 Hz (21’600 alternations/hour)
Power reserve: Approximately 150 hours
Number of components: 236
Rubies: 25
Transparent decorated rubber
with Takashi Murakami flower motif
Deployant buckle in titanium and sapphire crystal

Il tourbillon centrale è a carica manuale — The central tourbillon is manually wound

New Big Bang for Hublot

Published on June 14, 2023

Orologi

Magic Gold è in edizione limitata di 200 esemplari

Hublot presents the Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold. The watch was presented in 2011 and combines 24-karat gold with high-tech materials. It is patented, unalterable and unscratchable. The watch has a 44 mm case, sandwich construction, large pushers, bezel with six non-aligned visible screws, case and pusher protections, skeletonized dial, rubber strap interchangeable using the exclusive One Click system. The dial summarizes the repertoire of the Big Bang model: Arabic numerals, skeletonized Big Bang hands, which hover over the new in-house chronograph movement, the Unico 2 with automatic winding.

Dettaglio del Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold — Detail of the Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold

Magic Gold is in a limited edition of 200 pieces. Its shades are reproduced on the indexes, counters and hands, in satin-finished and micro-blasted 3N gold. The contrast is even greater with the other components of the case: black titanium and rubber pushers, caps, screws and strap. It’s super tough. Gold on average has a hardness of 400 Vickers, hardened steel 600 Vickers, while Magic Gold reaches 1000 Vickers. The result is obtained by infiltrating liquid gold at very high pressure into cold-pressed boron carbide components: the result is a unique material in the world, made up of gold and ceramic, scratchable only by diamond.

The Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold is powered by the new Unico 2 (HUB 1280) in-house movement. Thinner, more precise and more innovative than the Unico 1, its successor offers 72 hours of power reserve and two years of warranty, or three with registration of a Hublotista account. The Unico 2 is equipped with a gentler and more silent winding system: the chronograph does not click when started, it no longer trembles, thanks to an unprecedented engagement mechanism and it is also more resistant to shocks. It also retains all the aesthetic characteristics of its predecessor, so prized by collectors: openwork design with the Hublot H.

Il quadrante presenta numeri arabi, lancette Big Bang scheletrate — The dial features Arabic numerals, skeletonized Big Bang hands

1 2 Next