Vacheron Constantin is the oldest watch manufacturer in the world: it was founded in 1755, obviously in Switzerland. But that doesn’t mean he gives up on opening up new challenges. At Watch and Wonders 2023 in Geneva, the Maison presented its first sports watch with a retrograde date display. In other words, instead of traveling a 360-degree circle, a hand moves in a narrower arc, numbering from 1 to 31. Another distinctive point is the technical complexity in a sporty-chic style.
The in-house caliber 2460 R31L/2 has precision moon phases, which only require a one-day correction every 122 years, presumably when the watch will be from another owner. The retrograde indication is a function that is part of Vacheron Constantin’s heritage, but is used for the first time in the Overseas line. However, the new model retains the characteristics that characterize the collection: hexagonal bezel evoking the Maltese cross, fluted crown, polished and satin finishes, translucent lacquered dial, luminescent hour markers and hands, to which it associates the retrograde date and precision moonphase .
The Overseas collection continues the design history, with new calibres, of the original model born in 1996. The idea is to combine Haute Horlogerie and casual elegance. Over the years, the different versions of the Overseas have kept hexagonal bezels, in-house self-winding movements and interchangeable bracelet-straps. All features present in the new Overseas model with retrograde date and moon phases. At the heart of the 41 mm diameter steel case is the Manufacture caliber 2460 R31L/2, which for the first time in this collection combines a retrograde date and a highly precise moonphase. The blue lacquered dial creates a play of light thanks to the rehaut, the outer part on which numbers and additional scales such as the tachymeter scales are engraved, with a velvety finish and sunray satin center. The complications are legible with great clarity.
It took several months of aesthetic research to combine a precision moon phase and a retrograde date in a sporty yet elegant case, while ensuring high legibility and balance. The first step was to integrate the retrograde date, the Maison’s signature, into a sports-inspired watch.
The self-winding Manufacture caliber 2460 R31L/2 has a 40-hour power reserve. The movement, which has 275 components, can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case back. In particular, the pearly surface of the plate and the 22-karat gold oscillating weight adorned with a stylized wind rose recalling the themes of travel and exploration. The phases of the moon are visible through an aperture at 6 o’clock, with a graduated scale from 0 to 29½, which serves to count the days since the last new moon. This complication, known as the age of the moon, corresponds to the rotation of our satellite around the Earth, which takes 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes.
A retrograde date indication with a central hand occupies the top of the dial. To ensure optimal use, all functions are set via the crown: winding, date correction, moon phase and time adjustment. The timepiece is delivered on a steel bracelet accompanied by two calfskin and blue rubber straps.
Like other fashion brands, Alviero Martini 1A Classe also produces jewelery and watches under license. The new timepiece collection is called Capoverde, like the islands in the Atlantic Ocean, and includes six models, faithful to the brand’s inspiration, travel.
The watches have a 36 mm round steel case, with a rounded bezel framing a silver dial engraved with the Geo Map, the geographic area which is the hallmark of Alviero Martini 1A Classe.
The hands are in the shape of a leaf, the indexes are located at 3, 6 and 9, with the 1C monogram at 12. Three models in the Capoverde collection offer a leather strap with the Geo Map print and a customized pin buckle with logo 1st Class in the same color as the case. The model with the steel case and buckle has a bright brown leather strap (price: 139 euros). The version with steel case and buckle with yellow gold IP treatment (price: 149 euros) also has a leather strap with brown Geo Map print, while the version with steel case and rose gold IP treatment chooses a delicate beige nuance for the leather strap (149 euros).
There are three models with rice grain bracelets, all with folding clasp. This includes a total silver model with steel case and strap (159 euros), a two-tone version where the rigor of steel is combined with the elegant central links, bezel, crown, indexes and hands in steel with IP treatment yellow gold (169 euros) and a refined version where the steel becomes delicate thanks to the pink gold IP treatment for the central links, the bezel, the crown, the indexes and the hands (169 euros). All the watches in the Capoverde collection have a quartz movement and are waterproof to 30 metres.
Technical information
Case: steel, 36 mm with transparent outer rim
Movement: 2 spheres quartz
Dial: silver with logo engraving
Bracelet: in leather with print and buckle with personalized pin; in rice grain steel: steel color, steel with yellow gold IP finish and steel with rose gold IP, folding clasp
Water resistance: 3 atm / 30 meters
Price: 139 euro steel case leather strap; 149 euro steel case leather strap with IP finish; 159 euros steel case and steel strap, 169 euros steel case and strap with IP finishes.
Tissot doubles with Chemin des Tourelles
Tissot has launched a new series of the Chemin des Tourelles collection: they are watch models that reflect the philosophy of the classic collection, but with a renewed design. Among the new features are the sapphire crystal dome, sunray dial and updated movement. The watch, which is at the heart of the Tissot range, has a 42mm round steel case, classic display and mechanical movements. The dial has elegant baton hour markers and a compact date window above the 6 o’clock position. The display and transparent caseback are housed under a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal dome with an anti-reflective coating, combining style and robustness.
To launch the new Chemin des Tourelles collection, the Swiss Maison has also planned an advertising campaign with graphic and captivating images, in which the duality imprinted in the new series of timepieces is present. Because the collection is black and white, men and women, large and small, shiny and brushed, classic and modern, tangible even if beautifully elusive. Tissot’s idea, expressed through the communication campaign, is of a versatile watch to be worn all day long, conceived not as an occasional accessory, but as an element that can become familiar, while standing out from the crowd.
Moreover, during the campaign, quickly deciphered details appear that refer to Tissot, a Swiss watch brand founded 170 years ago. The campaign contains shades of red, the signature color of the brand, which is part of the Swatch group.
Three years ago he had launched the ring with the most diamonds in the world. Today the Indian Renani Jewels replicates the watch that has the largest number of diamonds set. The timepiece has been certified by the Guinness World Record, set with 17,524 hand-cut natural diamonds. The watch also has a name: Srinika, inspired by ancient Indian mythology. Srinika means flower, which is in the heart of god Vishnu, it also means Goddess Lakshmi, the Supreme Goddess of good fortune.
Every single diamond used is natural, EF color and VVS-VS clarity. It is also enhanced with a solitaire single diamond weighing 0.72 carats, D color and VVS clarity. Furthermore, the watch and the maxi bracelet contain 113 natural blue sapphires. The watch weighs 373.030 grams and contains 54.70 carats of diamonds. The price is on request. The Guinness ring (Read also The record ring with 12,638 diamonds) was instead made with 12,638 diamonds.
The hours for her with Darling by Breil
Breil, an Italian brand of the Binda group, offers a series of small-sized watches, suitable for a female audience. They are the ones from the Darling collection, with a retro looking look. The watches have round steel cases with a diameter of 18 millimeters, a bezel worked with a geometric pattern that reflects light and creates three-dimensionality. The crown is knurled, the dials have a minimal design with a sunray effect, while the indexes to indicate the hours are in the shape of a stick. At 12 o’clock is the Breil logo.
The watches adopt a soft Milanese mesh for the steel bracelet with a sliding clasp that is easily adjustable to the size of the wrist. The collection offers three color variants: case and bracelet in steel and silver dial, in steel with IP light gold finish and in IP rose steel, with ruby red dial. In each model, the indexes and hands are in nuances with the color of the steel. The watches in the Darling collection mount a VX00 Time Module two-hand quartz movement and are water resistant to 30 metres.
Technical specifications
Darlings
Case 18 mm TW1934 steel / TW1935 light gold IP steel / TW1936 pink IP steel
Sunray dial with applied indexes
Milanese mesh bracelet
VX00 Time Module movement
Waterproof, 3 ATM
Price, €135 TW1934 / €140 TW1935 / €140 TW1936
Arnold & Son’s Globetrotter goes platinum
The globetrotting watch is even more precious. Arnold & Son, a Swiss watchmaker with roots in London (in 1764) has coated its Globetrotter in 950 platinum, a noble metal that recalls the era of great explorations, when John Arnold’s chronometers were essential for travellers. In the centre, the Globetrotter Platinum, produced in just 28 pieces, features a dome depicting the northern hemisphere, supported by a large transversal bridge in 18-karat gold. Depending on which side it is viewed from, it is bevelled, polished, and satin-finished. Globetrotter has a ruby in the center which holds the universal time axis.
The watch maintains an essential design, with faceted indexes on two levels, made of 18-karat gold with Super-LumiNova coating. The lower part of the dial, which surrounds the globe, is mother-of-pearl with blue undertones. The world time ring is made of transparent sapphire. Local time is read through the red hands pointing to the hour markers, while for world time reading an imaginary longitude is visually traced from the ruby on the central bridge to the 24-hour ring.
Under a big bridge
The cross bridge of the Globetrotter Platinum is a carved 18-karat gold. It is made with a single piece, with an extraordinary perforation. It features smooth flat sections, satin sides, and wide bevels. The quality and type of finishes are the classic ones of Arnold & Son caliber components. However, an exceptional level of accuracy was used given the large size of the bridge.
Above the equator, the land surface of America, Eurasia and Africa is depicted in minute detail. It is a single element, with a rhodium-plated and polished finish. The reliefs of the mountain ranges are matted. The oceans are hand painted with several layers of lacquer, whose blue pigments enriched with mother-of-pearl powder give them intense depth and luminosity. The ribs, with a lighter shade and with Super-LumiNova, glow at night and further accentuate the relief of this miniature handcrafted work.
Inside, the Globetrotter Platinum has the Maison’s automatic caliber A&S6022. Like all Arnold & Son movements, it was entirely developed, manufactured, decorated, assembled, adjusted and cased within the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture. In addition to being openworked, the 22-karat gold oscillating weight is guilloché decorated with a Clous de Paris motif. The A&S6022 caliber is also decorated with the traditional motifs of haute horlogerie: pearlescent plate, Côtes de Genève sunburst bridges, satin-brushed wheels, chamfered and polished screws. The specific finishes consist of a NAC treatment. This type of plating uses precious metals similar to platinum. It gives a high-quality anthracite appearance that matches perfectly, due to its tone and nature, the 950 platinum case of the Globetrotter Platinum.
Technical specifications
Functions hours, minutes, world time (24-hour ring)
Movement
Caliber A&S6022, mechanical with automatic winding
Stones 29
Diameter 39.00mm
6.55mm thick
Power reserve 45 hours
Frequency 4 Hz / 28.800 halt/h
Plate decoration: pearly and with NAC treatment
bridges: Côtes de Genève sunburst, bevelled and polished, with NAC treatment
wheels: circular satin and rhodium-plated
screws: chamfered and mirror polished
Oscillating weight: rhodium-plated 22-carat gold, “clous de Paris” guilloché
Mother-of-pearl dial with blue hues, with rhodium-plated 18-karat gold three-dimensional indexes embellished with Super-LumiNova
Sapphire crystal 24-hour ring with hour decal
Dome Earth Continents: Rhodium plated and polished with matte mountain range details
oceans: hand painted, blue lacquer and mother of pearl powder
ribs: hand-painted, blue lacquer and mother-of-pearl powder embellished with Super-
LumiNova
bridge: rhodium-plated 18-karat gold, polished and satin-finished on the sides
Earnings
Material Pt 950 platinum
Diameter 45.00mm
Domed sapphire crystal, with anti-reflection treatment on both sides
Sapphire crystal case back, with anti-reflection treatment
Waterproof 30 meters /100 feet
Strap
Blue alligator leather material, raspberry pink alligator leather lining, hand-stitched
Folding clasp, Pt 950 platinum and titanium
Retail price in Switzerland CHF 64,900 incl. VAT (subject to change)
U-Boat with three new Darkmoon models
U-Boat anticipates the news scheduled for the Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva. The Italian company presents three new Darkmoon models, declined with a satin-finish steel case and black PVD treatment, in a reduced size of 40 mm and with new color variants. Furthermore, the Tuscan brand has prepared a 40mm version, but with a bronze-colored case with IP Bronze treatment. The Darkmoon watch series is characterized by the special oil bath in the case, which envelops the movement and creates a visual illusion effect of the absence of glass, as well as an amplified three-dimensional view thanks to the compensation bubble free to float on the dial.
The first model among the novelties is the 40mm version, in the two types of case, with red glass and black dial, which was initially presented in the 44mm size. This is flanked by two models with sunray dials characterized by nuances of green and coral red respectively, which from the center fade towards a solid black in contrast with spheres, numbers and indexes treated in beige luminava with black vulcanized rubber strap. Finally, still measuring 40 mm, the watch has a bronze-colored case and a full black dial, again with numbers, index and hands in contrasting beige color, also treated with luminova, and a dark brown calfskin strap with lasered and aged with traditional Tuscan tanning techniques.
It’s rabbit time for Ulysse Nardin
It’s rabbit time, given that 2023 according to the Chinese horoscope is this animal linked to the zodiac. Tradition also wants it to be the luckiest animal in the Asian country’s special astrological zoo. Surely the collectors who will be able to get the new Ulysse Nardin watch can be lucky: the Classic Rabbit has a design that enhances the refined enamelling techniques, such as champlevé and cloisonné.
The Classico Rabbit 40 mm is produced in a limited series of 88 pieces. Inside is the automatic caliber UN-815 equipped with a 42-hour power reserve. The case back is in sapphire crystal and the black strap is in alligator leather, closed by a rose gold buckle. The case is in 5N rose gold, polished, waterproof up to 50 meters. The aspect that immediately strikes you, however, is immediately the glazing used. Ulysse Nardin is among the few Maisons that can master this delicate technique and stands out thanks to the expertise of Donzé Cadrans’ atelier, where the tradition of enamelling techniques has been perpetuated over time.
The process consists of applying a series of enamelling techniques to watches, including Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé and Flinqué. All the glazing processes, similar to each other but at the same time unique, are done by hand and require great skill and precision. The complexity and meticulous details of the scenes painted with great likelihood, combined with the effect that the enamelling allows to give to the whole, explain why the timepieces that use these techniques have been highly sought after by collectors for centuries.
The champlevé technique involves engraving the dial by creating individual alveoli, which are filled with enamel. The colors come from a mix of different metal oxides. The dial is fired until the enamel melts, then smoothed and polished when it cools. The final phase, the most delicate, involves enriching the motif by chiselling metal elements on the surface.
The cloisonné technique brings back to life a very ancient method that dates back to the Middle Ages, when it was widely used under the Byzantine Empire and in the West as early as the 4th century. This method consists in creating cells using a very thin gold wire to deposit the enamel with the utmost precision. For the bending of the gold wire alone, up to 15 hours of work are required for each dial.
Triangle hours with Guess
The Californian fashion brand Guess has long since extended its design touch to the world of watches as well. Now Guess Watches presents a new line of watches, Fame, specifically designed for the female wrist. The line consists of two quartz models, which play on the shape of the triangle, which characterizes the Guess logo. The case has the shape of an inverted triangle, quite original, surrounded by small crystals that surround the bezel. On the dial, with a transparent border with a tone-on-tone internal triangle, the hour, minute and second hands slide by. The Guess logo is located at 12 o’clock.
The timepieces are offered in a version with a stainless steel case and bracelet and a steel-colored dial (189 euros) or in stainless steel with a yellow gold IP finish like the dial (209 euros). The watches are paired with a mesh bracelet with a snap closure.
Technical information:
– Movement: 3 spheres quartz
– Case: Stainless Steel, 34mm, Inverted Triangle Shape
– Dial: steel color or IP yellow gold
– Bracelet: stainless steel, mesh
– Waterproof: 10m
Tempo by Pilo & Co with Swarovski crystals
The Tempo collection by Pilo & Co Genève features watches with black or colored straps, available in different materials and finishes. They are automatic watches that reveal their mechanism in a play of transparencies, which lets you see the inner workings under the dial and case back. Swiss Made mechanical watches with automatic winding, in fact, have the mechanism visible both on the front and on the back. The watch case is in steel, closed by a border with Swarowski stones, while the dial is guarded by sapphire crystal. The strap is genuine leather. The watch is water resistant up to 30 meters.
Pilo & Co Genève is an independent brand created in 2001 in Geneva in the Saint-Gervais district, one of the historic cradles of Swiss watchmaking. The company has chosen this place wrapped in a strong historical charge. It is here that it all began and today Pilo & Co Genève creates, like the cabinotiers, watches that are part of the original spirit of the factory: independence from big companies, the virtue of quality and an artistic and jewelery dimension.
Breil debuts in smartwatches
Breil also turns to smartwatches. The Binda group brand enters the segment of watches with digital functions with a model that is part of the Breil Tribe collection, the company’s youngest nuance. The SBT-1 Breil Tribe model is a timepiece available in different colours: the easy pin system allows you to easily interchange the two straps with which it is sold. The smartwatch software system is compatible with iOS (iPhone) and Android systems. Not only that: the watches are programmed to monitor ten different sports, such as climbing, badminton, basketball, soccer, walking, cycling, running, spinning, treadmill and yoga.
The SBT-1 Breil Tribe model is proposed as unisex with a rectangular metal alloy case, with rounded corners and dimensions of 36 x 44 mm. The color variants for the cases are three: Ip rose, silver and Ip black combined. Each one has two straps made of silicone. The watches come with three pre-set dials: a timepiece-only version, with a very essential BT textured background. The second version is only time, in which the details of the Arabic numerals appear on the indexes, as well as the Breil logo at 12 o’clock and lime green details. The third option is the multifunction which features three counters and a sports-style minute track in gray and red. An app also allows you to download other dial variants.
The 1.69” displays have a resolution of 240×280 pixels, a full touch screen and Bluetooth 5.0 connectivity. The battery guarantees a duration of 6-10 days. Smart watches manage various functions, such as call or message notifications, music control, remote photo taking, alarm clock, mobile phone finder, weather forecast, connected GPS, calorie counter and pedometer, heart rate monitoring, blood pressure monitoring and blood oxygenation, sleep quality monitoring, body temperature measurement, menstrual cycle monitoring, sedentary reminder. Price: 119.90 euros.
Technical specifications
Metal case 36X44 mm
3 pre-set customized Breil Tribe dials, with the possibility of downloading other dials online
Battery life 6-10 days
1.69 inch display, 240×280 pixel full touch screen resolution
Function of Call/Message Notifications, Music control, Remote photo taking, Alarm clock, Phone finder, Weather forecast, Connected GPS, Calorie counter and pedometer, Heart rate monitoring, Blood pressure and oxygen monitoring, Sleep quality monitoring, Heart rate measurement body temperature, menstrual cycle monitoring, sedentary reminder
Silicone strap with “BT” pattern and ardillon buckle. Second interchangeable silicone strap with pin buckle.
Valentine’s time for Daniel Wellington
Watches to give for the feast of love. The Daniel Wellington brand offers them, from 18 January to 14 February, in a special box for Valentine’s Day: the box is pink, with a drawn heart. Daniel Wellington is the brand founded by the Swede Filip Tysander, who adopted the name of an impeccable British traveller, met by chance. A man who had a particular fondness for his vintage watches with old Nato (nylon) straps marked by time. Over time, the brand has developed and expanded its offering.
For Valentine’s Day, for example, Daniel Wellington presents new watches that join its flagship Classic, Petite and Quadro collections. Among the novelties, the 5-piece link watch for women, with a simple white dial, in white or pink mother-of-pearl, with the addition of crystals and with a yellow gold, rose gold or two-tone bracelet. The watch can be combined with a Classic bracelet or a set of crystal earrings.
For men, on the other hand, the brand offers new 40 mm Classic watches available with dials in different colors and genuine Italian leather or metal mesh straps.
Breil’s Rays with Bow Shot
Bow Shot, watches for those who don’t want to compromise. Breil watches with a strong character, as is the nature of the Binda group brand. The Bow Shot chronographs have a 43-millimeter steel case decorated with a fluted matte-finish lacquered bezel, which is also the identifying element of the collection. The black dial, with its sunburst texture, takes up the motif of the bezel and punctuates the background. The essential minute track, in white, is followed by indexes with luminous.
At twelve o’clock the Breil logo and the 12 in large Arabic numeral, which becomes an aesthetic but also functional element of the dial. Between 4 and 5 o’clock, between the chrono counters, the date window also appears. The collection consists of three chronographs, in three different colors: bilux steel, bilux IP gold steel and bilux IP rose steel. Every steel detail on the dial picks up on the colors of the case and bracelet in shades, as well as the crown and the chrono buttons.
The steel bracelets are three-link satin-finished in the center and polished at the ends with a push-button deployant clasp. The timepieces are equipped with a Tmi VD53 quartz chronograph movement and are waterproof up to 5 atmospheres.
Technical specifications
Bow Shot Chronograph
43 mm case in bilux steel (TW1980) bilux steel IP gold (TW1981), bilux steel IP rose (TW1982)
Black sunburst dial, luminescent applied hour markers
Three link bracelet in bilux steel with satin central section
TMI VD53 quartz chronograph movement
Screw back
Waterproof, 5 ATM
Prices: 235 euros (TW1980), 259 euros (TW1981), 259 euros (TW1982)
Vo Vintage program
The stopwatch has already started to count down. And timepieces are the protagonists of Vo Vintage, the appointment introduced three years ago by Ieg as an experiment and which has proved to be a valid contribution to Vicenzaoro. So from 20 to 23 January Vo Vintage will be staged for the fourth edition, one day more than the previous ones. The event is always scheduled in the foyer on the first floor of the fair and is aimed at watch enthusiasts, collectors and traders. Unlike Vicenzaoro, in fact, in this case the entrance is open to the public and not only to operators.
35 brands and dealers will be present at Vo Vintage, including Vintage Watches by Stefano Mazzariol, Tempus by Elvio Piva, Goldfingers by Roberto Verde and Vintage Watches and Cars by Andrea Foffi, who returns to Vicenza also as a collector with the second part of the Magister Speedmaster Exhibition (the first at Vicenzaoro September 2022) dedicated to the most famous Omega watch models from his private collection. Representing vintage jewelery are also Art Deco’ Bijoux, Montegrandi Gioielli, Micol, Gioielleria Faelutti and I Santi Medici. Also present with a selection of ten exhibitors is the Watch Passion association, which brings together and promotes the best watch dealers.
Saturday 21 January
The event dedicated to watches (but also to vintage jewellery), has a series of meetings on its agenda. Saturday 21 January Jacopo Spangaro, organizer of The One auction-event and owner of the Spangaro watch shop in Udine, Antonio Follari and Giancarlo Befera, collectors and members of the L’Orologio Club, moderated by Dody Giussani, will talk about What characteristics a collector. The latest trends on the high-end international market will be addressed by Stefano Mazzariol, founder and CEO of Vintage Watches, Elvio Piva, founder and CEO of Tempus Padova, and Roberto Verde, president of the Watch Passion association, in a meeting moderated by Michele Mengoli and Jacopo Giudici , respectively director and founder and publisher of Watch Insanity. Also on Saturday 21 January, the talk is scheduled with speeches by Franco Armentano, founder of DHM, Fabio Bertini, manager of F.lli Pisa in Milan and Michele Corvo, owner of Corvo & C and GMT Italia.
On Saturday 21 January, in the Collecting out of the box talk curated by Andrea Casalegno, watch lover, consultant and signature of IamCasa on Instagram, he will discuss with three young influencers how the way of collecting has changed and the growing role of social networks: Alessandro Fanciulli, collector and hunter of valuable pieces, Joël Laplace, collector and assistant manager at the Zenith Heritage Department, and Lorenzo Maillard, collector and content specialist at Watches and Culture, the cultural hub of FHH.
Sunday 22 January
Bruno Bergamaschi (aka Giorgione), one of the most recognized watchmaking experts in Italy, founder of Watchouse and ambassador of Vicenzaoro for the passion and culture of watchmaking, will instead be among the protagonists of the meeting on Sunday 22 January on the theme Defending passion for counterfeiting and theft, together with Mario Peserico, president of Assorologi, and Lorenzo Lucchinelli, founder of Ipsum – Identity for luxury goods.
With Italian Watch Spotter, space is given to collections from the 1990s and 2000s and to contemporary designs that evoke vintage. For technical training, the appreciated course held by Professor Ugo Pancani, of the Genevan FHH – Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and member of the GPHG Academy, returns on Sunday 22 January. Sunday 22 January will be the turn of Vintage Game Changers, with another key voice that has changed the rules of the game in the field of collecting: Jasper Lijfering, owner and CEO of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, one of the most prestigious vintage watch boutiques luxury, with an online offer of high-end pieces for collectors from all over the world.
Tiffany diamond car-watches
There are not only wristwatches. Tiffany, for example, has unveiled a new series of mechanical table clocks, inspired by its tradition of manufacturing trophies for car races and its traditional experience of collaboration with the Swiss watch industry. Time for Speed table clocks are made of aluminum, finished in the color of the Maison, the classic Tiffany Blue. The design of the watches is instead inspired by that of 1950s racing cars. The Maison presented a standard edition and two limited editions of these table clocks: one limited edition available exclusively at the Japanese stores Tiffany & Co., the other for the rest of the world. The limited edition table clocks available globally are decorated with 316 diamonds, totaling over 19 carats. Each wheel has a single diamond of approximately one carat at its center. The limited edition available only in Japan instead includes 192 diamonds including a pavé in the center of each wheel.
The watches have characteristics that can entice collectors. The tires of each watch-car, which weighs around 4 kilos, are made of resistant rubber, while the rims have polished steel spokes. The T&Co logo is stamped on the radiator on each watch. In place of the driver, a small glass dome in the shape of a helmet allows a glimpse of the mechanism inside. A large number 5 is instead positioned on the hood: it is a reference to the Tiffany & Co. flagship on Fifth Avenue, in New York. The hours and minutes are positioned on the left side of the machine and are visible through a brushed steel opening that makes them look like racing numbers. Time is marked by turning the three-spoke steering wheel counterclockwise. Finally, the movement is recharged by sliding the machine backwards on a flat surface.
In a world of color, black and white becomes an author’s style. And it is these two shades that characterize the new Aikon Master Grand Date Black from the Swiss Maison Maurice Lacroix. The timepiece relies on the proven mechanics of the Masterpiece collection. The new model also uses Aikon’s urban design. The result is a high price-performance ratio. The Aikon Master Grand Date was presented in 2021: it is a watch that combines the mechanics of the Masterpiece collection with the urban design of the Aikon. The new version, the Aikon Master Grand Date Black, comes with a large 45 mm stainless steel case coated with black DLC treatment.
The look is sober, with dark color tones. The display reveals the movement of various components and the dial is made of vertically brushed black DLC. Hours and minutes are displayed on an off-centre dial embellished with Clous de Paris decorations, while the indication of the seconds is positioned on a small display next to it. The heart of the watch is made up of a self-winding manufacture movement, the ML331 calibre, which bears witness to the Maison’s watchmaking know-how.
At 10 o’clock, a complex mechanism with two discs offers a date indication in a large format, to ensure maximum legibility. As with the other models in the Aikon collection, the case dispenses with conventional lugs and integrates the strap within the housing, providing comfort to the wearer. Maurice Lacroix has chosen to equip the model with a new type of rubber strap, with the brand name in relief, and a second strap in synthetic leather with a fabric effect with the brand’s M logo. The model is also equipped with the Maison’s Easy Strap Exchange System, which facilitates strap changes.
Shocking colors with X Man 3.0 by Hip Hop Watches
The watches for the Z generation of Hip Hop Watches (a brand of the Binda group) expand to include new timepieces from the X Man 3.0 collection. The watches have cases measuring 42 millimeters in diameter and focus on the brightly colored dial, in contrast with the straps in sober tones. Like all Hip Hop watches, the X Man 3.0 models are also separable: each model consists of a strap and a case that can be separated from each other and allow the latter to be mounted on straps of different colors that can be purchased separately.
The watches of the Hip Hop X Man 3.0 collection are made with a polycarbonate case with a matching bezel and crown. The colors of the cases are combined with bright shades of the dials: the orange case is juxtaposed with light blue (denim blue strap), the purple case with orange (navy blue strap) and the light blue case with yellow (delft blue strap). The Arabic numerals mark the main hours (12, 3, 6, 9) alongside elongated hour markers that pick up on the colors of the dial and strap together. At 3 o’clock the date window. The Luminous coating lights up the dials in the dark while maintaining perfect legibility of the indications. At 12 o’clock the Hip Hop logo. The movement of the watches is Tmi VJ42 quartz with three spheres and date. The timepieces are waterproof up to 50 meters.
How to recognize a fake watch
The temptation to buy a branded watch at a ridiculous price is strong. When visiting countries such as China, but also in many Western countries, albeit to varying degrees, offers of prestigious timepieces costing a few hundred (sometimes tens) of euros, dollars or pounds are not uncommon. Indeed, there are those who actively seek these opportunities. Even if he knows very well that they are fakes. And buying them is not a good idea. According to the watchmaking platform, Watchfinder, the number of fake pieces on the market continues to increase. The British company specializing in the safe buying and selling of watches estimates that over 40 million counterfeit watches are sold worldwide every year and more than 80% of these replicas are almost impossible to identify at a glance. There are those who, therefore, think of buying an original watch and instead find a copy in their hands. And it becomes a problem when he decides to resell it.
How to recognize a fake watch?
The premise is that you must know the original specimen very well or, better yet, have one available to compare. The differences are often tiny, like a screw gap, a microscopic burr, different materials and poor quality. An original watch features accurate details, the logo exactly reproduced, clear writing and with the right font, precise engravings. You have to look carefully at the dial, the case back, the crown and the bracelet, to find out if there are any imperfections. Even materials and colors have always been very indicative of both the quality of a product and its originality. Furthermore, a check of the technical characteristics is essential: in fact, fakes rarely have the same characteristics as the originals. These are details that, however, are not always easy to identify. Also because today the advances in technology help forgers, who have reached a very high level of skill and make timepieces that are increasingly similar to the originals. There is also another aspect to check: the guarantee, signed and stamped by the authorized dealer, and the serial number, essential for certifying the originality of the timepiece.
The watches with the most fakes
Among the most imitated models are the Rolex Submariner, Daytona, Oyster Perpetual and Datejust, but also the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Nautilus by Patek Philippe. Over the years, the demand for these timepieces has reached such a level that, in the hope of reducing waiting times, many look for shortcuts in non-certified platforms, capable of putting buyers and sellers in direct contact. However, virtual bargaining often turns into a real scam because counterfeiters can publish their advertisements without requiring precise proof of authenticity.
Spectacular winter solstice with Piaget
The solstice is, in astronomy, the moment when the Earth reaches the point of maximum or minimum declination with respect to the Sun. In the course of a year the solstice occurs twice: when the Sun reaches the maximum value of positive declination in June and marks the onset of the northern summer or southern winter, and negative in December. Coinciding with this phenomenon, 2022 also exceptionally recorded Piaget‘s Solstice. And of course this high jewelery series is presented to coincide with the astronomical solstice.
A portion of jewels was in fact shown in June (see also: Piaget celebrates a luxurious Solstice) while the second tranche arrived in December. These are sumptuous jewels, which celebrate the solstice with the launch of the luminous reflections of the gems, with marquise-cut diamonds combined with others in the shape of a brilliant or baguette. The collection also includes two watch-bracelets, high jewelery also capable of marking time and surprising thanks to two ruby red gems floating in a sea of diamonds. Piaget’s gemology team devoted months of research to craft the Blazing Swing and Everlasting Night watches using diamonds contrasted with red rubies, blue sapphires or emeralds, while their respective dials were set with snow and black opal. The Exalting Dance articulated necklace, on the other hand, is arranged around a pair of deep blue aquamarines and a swirling swirl of diamonds that offer a spectacular glow.
The Solstice line also includes the diamond earrings from the Exalting Dance set, made with an intricate puzzle of brilliant, marquise and baguette cut diamonds. They are a special piece not only for their elaborate design, but also because they bear witness to the refined craftsmanship of the Piaget workshops.
In Vicenzaoro hands on the Time
To say that Vicenzaoro wants to transform itself into a new Baselworld would be wrong. But it is certain that the company organizing the most important jewelry event, Italian Exhibition Group, is thinking of expanding the business space. This is indicated by the decision to create a new area, called Time with not excessive originality, dedicated to watchmaking. To tell the truth, Vicenzaoro had already added a mezzanine to the space reserved for jewelry for a couple of years, where Vo Vintage was held, a space for watchmaking open to the public, with most of them a few vintage jewelry dealers.
After this taste, therefore, the new community dedicated to contemporary watchmaking and its supply chain is enriched, but in a B2B version. The debut is scheduled at the same time as Vicenzaoro, from 20 to 24 January 2023, again in the premises of Fiera Vicenza. The main buyers and operators of international and Italian distribution will be present, a selection of brands such as Edox, U-Boat, GaGà Milano, Locman, independent brands, a collective of Swiss brands curated by Swiss Creative Lab and a selection of Italian and micro-brands. high potential start-up by Watches of Italy. The Time space will also host after-sales components, accessories, tools and services companies, such as Oisa 1937 and Bergeon. VO Vintage, however, does not retire and is always open to the public.
In short, Ieg wants to create a high-level event dedicated to watchmaking. To convince operators, the company recalls that in the last edition of Vicenzaoro, in September, arrivals from abroad recorded an increase of 10% compared to 2019 and represent more than half of the total attendance (51%), with buyers from 124 countries.