The historic Van Cleef & Arpels collection is updated with the addition of a special enamel.
Alhambra, a name derived from the Arabic al-Ḥamra’, meaning “the Red,” is the color of the stone and earth walls at sunset of the monumental complex and fortified citadel of Islamic origin in Granada, Andalusia, Spain. It is also the name of a jewelry collection presented in 1968 by Van Cleef & Arpels. Perhaps, however, it was named after the nickname of the dynasty’s founder, “The Red.” The collection has undergone several updates over time. However, its distinctive design, inspired by the shape of a four-leaf clover, has remained intact. The jewelry in this collection uses semi-precious stones such as onyx and carnelian, as well as mother-of-pearl, guilloché gold, and Sèvres porcelain.
The new version adds enamel to a new set of five new Vintage Alhambra and Magic Alhambra creations: a necklace, a pendant necklace, a bracelet, and a pair of earrings. The enamel colors the quatrefoil elements, which are framed by small gold beads. A gold chain runs between them. This shade of red is achieved through a process inspired by the rouge à l’or technique, which dates back to the 17th century. The color is generated not by pigments, but by tiny gold particles in the material. Van Cleef & Arpels explains that obtaining the ideal shade is particularly complex: the result depends on the shape and size of the particles, as well as their concentration. The Van Cleef & Arpels enameling atelier has dedicated several years of research and development to perfecting and perfecting the process.
Paired with yellow gold, including in the guilloché finish (a mechanical and manual decorative engraving technique that creates repetitive and complex geometric patterns), enamel reveals a translucent material, characterized by tiny bubbles, giving each design uniqueness. The material is also distinguished by its ability to reflect light, which the maison believes is superior to that of emerald, giving it a unique brilliance. The designs feature a curved surface designed to enhance their brilliance and generate iridescent reflections.
