Van Cleef & Arpels Archives

Van Cleef & Arpels, Belle de Jour

Published on August 15, 2023

Showroom

In the history of jewelry there is also a special necklace that has a special story: it’s called Belle de Jour and was made by Van Cleef & Arpels. It is an ad hoc creation. That is, it’s a custom-made necklace for a wealthy client. The name is not known. But for half a century, from 1930, it was admired solely and exclusively by its anonymous owner. Then, a few years ago, the client granted Van Cleef & Arples permission to reproduce it. And here it is in all its beauty.

Collana Belle de Jour indossata — Belle de Jour necklace worn

The necklace is one of 11 pieces in the Tresors Reveles collection, all created from sketches made in the house’s archives dating from 1920 to 1960. The jewel is extraordinary: it forms a drape that can also be worn on the shoulders. It is made of white gold, with over 100 carats of diamonds in various cuts, and interrupted with turquoise cabochons. The necklace can also be transformed into two bracelets, earrings or it can become a belt.

There is, however, one aspect that is less known. The secret history of the necklace. The name, Belle de Jour, refers to the novel written in 1929 by Joseph Kessel. Belle de Jour, Beautiful by day, then also became a film directed by Luis Buñuel in 1967, starring Catherine Deneuve. It is the story of a society woman who is a prostitute for three hours during the day. And she does it for herself, not to satisfy her desire for her or for money, but her existential restlessness, for a psychological discomfort. In short, the novel, and the film, are not a classic erotic novel, but also a journey into the psychological implications of the sexuality and loneliness of Séverine, the protagonist, who meets her clients every afternoon from 2 to 5 pm. At the time the book caused a scandal and, perhaps, also explains why in 1930 the client (and the recipient of the gift) remained anonymous. Maybe today belle de jour would be called escort and would like to let it be known, who knows…

Bozzetto della collana Belle de Jour — Sketch of the Belle de Jour necklace

Catherine Deneuve nel film Bella di Giorno — Catherine Deneuve in the movie Belle de Jour

Barbie’s jewels

Published on August 11, 2023

Showroom

Do you like pink? Do you want to wear pink jewelry? Are you looking for a pink necklace? Or a bracelet? Or … Here are many ideas ♦

There are many reasons to wear pink jewelry, Barbie’s favorite color. The first is that it is the light version of marsala, announced color of the year, according to Pantone. In addition, it is definitely more suited to this season; the second reason is that its tone, even the one tinged with gray tinge, embellishes any type of skin. And This alone would be enough to convince anyone. But there is another side to act as an incentive and comes from English: think pink!It means thinking positive. And indeed a beautiful bright pink is a burst of energy, a stimulus to good mood. So, although many of the color names have lost their multiplicity of meanings, even in some languages in common phrases characterize specific moods. So, ring, earrings or bracelet have also colored stones, faceted or cabochon, translucent or opaque. Provided that they are pink.

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri rosa — Nigaam, anello in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri rosa

And more, pink is a positive color. It takes its name from the fragrant flower of the same name. But perhaps you don’t know that it was born quite recently: the name rose was used for the first time to indicate a shade of color only at the end of the 17th century. In the West (especially Europe and the United States), pink is the color associated with concepts of charm, kindness, sensitivity, tenderness, sweetness, childhood, femininity and romance. If the hue is very light, it is associated with chastity and innocence. On the contrary, a bright pink suggests eroticism and seduction.

Petit Joli, anello in oro rosa, calcedonio e diamanti — Petit Joli, anello in oro rosa, calcedonio rosa e diamanti by Pasquale Bruni

The history of pink
One could write a history of the color pink. But, undoubtedly, the maximum popularity reached it in the mid-eighteenth century, when pastel colors became very fashionable in all the courts of Europe. The pink color in particular was highly appreciated by Madame de Pompadour (1721-1764), lover of King Louis XV of France, who often wore clothes that combined blue and pink. Not only that: she had a particular shade of pink created especially for her by the Sevres porcelain factory, apparently with small additions of blue, black and yellow.

Pink stones
But let’s talk about jewelry: in addition to pink gold, you have a wide choice of stones that have shades of rose. The most precious, and most expensive, is undoubtedly the diamond. Diamonds with pink shades are buyed for millions of dollars during the auctions. But luckily there are many other stones that also have this color tone in their repertoire: quartz, sapphire, mystic topaz, rhodolite garnet, morganite, kunzite, Malaya garnet, tourmaline, spinel, opal, zircon, pink pearl, moonstone , coral, smithsonite, pezzottaite, rhodochrosite and rhodonite. You only have the problem of choosing one.

Matilde de Bounvilles

Tiffany, anello Sugar Stacks di Paloma Picasso in oro rosa 18 carati con pavé di zaffiri rosa.

Tamara Comolli, braccialetto Mikado Romance in oro rosa con quarzi, e morganite rosa.

Vhernier, orecchini Eclisse in oro bianco con rhodonite, cristallo di rocca, madreperla e diamanti

Collezione Millebolle, anello in oro rosa, diamanti grigi, rodolite. Anello oro rosa, diamanti grigi, quarzo rosa — Minù, collezione Millebolle, anello in oro rosa, diamanti grigi, rodolite.
Anello oro rosa, diamanti grigi, quarzo rosa

Anello con diamante rosa di 8,42 carati, fancy rosa intenso, taglio brillante, ma «modificato rettangolare», chiarezza VVS1. AI lati due diamanti baguette

Alessio Boschi, collezione Naturalia anello Peony con morganite centrale

Van Cleef & Arpels, orecchini Papillons in oro rosa con zaffiri rosa e diamanti

Etho Maria, bracciale La Serpentine in oro rosa con zaffiri rosa e diamanti brown

Anello Thalessa, in oro rosa 18 carati, tormalina, zaffiri, tormalina bicolore — Daniela Villegas, anello Thalessa, in oro rosa 18 carati, tormalina, zaffiri, tormalina bicolore

Brumani, Baobab collection Rosé, anello con diamanti, quarzo e tormaline brasiliane rosa

Irene Neuwirth, orecchini a forma di rosa in opale inciso, rhodocrosite tagliata a goccia e diamanti.

Olive — Larkspur & Hawk, collana con topazi rosa sfaccettati

Yoko London, anello con perla barocca rosa e pavé di diamanti

Chantecler, orecchini Capri in oro rosa con ametista, fosfosiderite, zaffiri rosa e diamanti

Marie-Hélène de Taillac, orecchini in oro giallo con due tipi di quarzi rosa da 45 carati complessivi e due spinelli rosa più scuro

Sutra, anello in oro rosa con diamanti e spinelli rosa e viola

Brumani, Baobab collection Rosé, orecchini con diamanti, quarzo e tormaline brasiliane rosa

Jewels in the shape of a lily of the valley

Published on August 2, 2023

Showroom

Spilla a forma di foglia e fiori di mughetto

Lily of the valley, herbaceous plant (Convallaria maialis) of the Convallariacee family. But above all, one of the fragrant flowers of May. And it is no coincidence that the delicate thrush has inspired many jewelers. Here, then, are some jewels that are inspired by lily of the valley: a flower that has unexpected aphrodisiac properties. Yet it is also a flower often associated with marriage ceremonies, because for some it is a symbol of purity and chastity.

Fulco Verdura, spilla in ogiallo e bianco con — Fulco Verdura, spilla in oro giallo e bianco con perle

In fact, when we talk about flowers in jewelry and not only, and we immediately think of roses. But lily of the valley also inspired beautiful objects. In pagan times this flower symbolized happiness and for this reason it was considered a lucky charm, while in the Middle Ages the lily of the valley was also used as an amulet, associated with the celebration of May, the beginning of the month of engagement. But the result of a study conducted some time ago by the University Hospital of Padua is perhaps more surprising: it seems that men, who would have a greater olfactory capacity than the female category, are able to recognize an organic chemical, called bourgeonal, if emanating from women’s skin. And this fragrance, very similar to that of lily of the valley, is one of the factors triggering male attraction.

And it is precisely in the Victorian era, with the tradition of sentimental jewels, that the flower becomes one of the most represented motifs with a meaning linked to its era, namely romanticism. Since then more or less all the great jewelers have ventured into the theme and have created more or less realistic brooches, earrings and necklaces inspired by the forest flower. Here is a selection of the most beautiful pieces that all women would like to bring even in December, without being superstitious or looking for a boyfriend. Monica Battistoni

Ed è proprio in epoca vittoriana, con la tradizione dei gioielli sentimentali, che il fiore diventa uno dei motivi più rappresentati con un significato però legato alla sua epoca, ossia il romanticismo. Da allora più o meno tutti i grandi gioiellieri si sono cimentati nel tema e hanno creato spille, orecchini e collane più o meno realistiche ispirate al fiore di bosco. Ecco una selezione dei pezzi più belli che tutte le donne vorrebbero portare anche a dicembre, senza essere superstiziose o in cerca di fidanzato. Monica Battistoni

Cartier, spilla anni 50 in platino, diamanti taglio baguette e perle

Spilla epoca Edoardiana in platino, oro giallo , diamanti e perle

DellaValle — Michele della Valle, collana con diamanti taglio rotondo e tsavoriti

Suzanne Syz, orecchini in oro bianco e giallo con 18 perle Akoya, 554 zaffiri viola, 152 granati verdi, 330 diamanti e 356 smeraldi

Tiffany, spilla in platino, diamanti e perle

Tiffany, spilla in oro giallo e opale nero

Lalique, orecchini in oro bianco con 76 diamanti, 6 zaffiri gialli, 6 zaffiri rosa, 6 zaffiri arancio, 6 quarzi rosa

Van Cleef & Arpels, bracciale in oro con zaffiri, diamanti e tsavoriti

Myths: the Zip Van Cleef & Arpels

Published on April 1, 2023

news

One of the myths in the history of jewelry is the Zip necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels. Do you know it? Here is a brief history of a milestone in luxury ♦

There are myths that never fade. One of them is the Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace. If you don’t know this jewel, read this article and look at the pictures: it is, in fact, one of the milestones of jewelry. It has now turned 84, yet it is still a miracle of the goldsmith’s technique and is still inimitable. Moreover, it also has a noble history: the idea of a jewel in the shape of a zip zipper is attributed to the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, American wife of King Edward VIII of England, who abdicated to be able to marry her (she was divorced) . According to this version, in 1938 the Duchess, a great lover of jewelry, suggested the idea of a necklace with a hinge to Renée Puissant, daughter of Alfred Van Cleef and artistic director of the Maison. Undoubtedly an original idea.

Collana-bracciale Zip di Van Cleef & Arpels

Making the necklace that opens with a zip system, however, was not easy. To make a jewel like this in a workmanlike manner, it takes from 400 to 1,200 hours and, above all, a great craftsmanship. To tell the truth, the one created by Van Cleef & Arpels and which became famous was not the first hinge: the designer Elsa Schiaparelli, a high jewelery genius, had thought of it before, but without reaching that level of complexity and luxury.

Il duca di Windsor, ex re Edoardo VIII, assieme a Wallis Simpson

In addition to the difficulty in making a jewel that opens and closes, it must be added that there is also another aspect to complicate the creation: the necklace is transformable. The closure, in fact, flows up and down, like the zip of a dress: in this way it allows the necklace to shorten or widen. Not only that, it can be transformed into a bracelet. Zip necklaces are made with different materials: in yellow or white gold, with precious stones, diamonds. They are still one of the Maison’s most fascinating jewels. Alessia Mongrando

Una celebre immagine della duchessa di Windsor firmata da Cecil Beaton

The jewels of Marlene Dietrich and Anne Eisenhower at Christie’s

Published on March 18, 2023

news

Bracciale con diamanti e rubini di Van Cleef & Arpels

The jewels that belonged to famous people have an extra charm. And the auction of Magnificent Jewels by Christie’s scheduled for June 7 can boast two famous names in its catalogue. The first is that of Anne Eisenhower, collector, philanthropist, and descendant of one of the most eminent American families: just think that her grandfather, General Dwight D. Eisenhower, was president of the United States. Anne Eisenhower died on July 30, 2022 and her jewels are now for sale. The other celebrity is Marlene Dietrich, a German naturalized American actress and singer, an icon of cinema in the first half of the twentieth century. And the most precious jewel in the collection really belonged to the legendary Merlene: a bracelet of rubies and Jarretière diamonds, purchased by the actress in 1937 from Van Cleef & Arpels. Marlene Dietrich wore it in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1950 thriller Stage Fright and it was purchased by Anne Eisenhower in 1992 (estimate $2,500,000-4,500,000).

Il retro del bracciale tempestato di diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels

Other highlights from the sale include Tiffany & Co’s rare Art Deco Moonlight Rose diamond and gemstone bracelet (estimate $500,000-700,000), an Art Deco diamond bracelet by Cartier ($150,000-250,000), and a statement ring with 20.54 carats (1,200,000-1,800,000) D-color diamonds.
Christie’s has planned a global tour ahead of the auction, which will begin in Los Angeles and continue in Paris, Geneva and Hong Kong. The complete collection will be sold live and online during Christie’s Luxury Week in New York on June 7th.

From Marlene Dietrich to President Dwight D. Eisenhower, the Anne Eisenhower Collection traces the history of the past century through a single collector’s brilliant passion for fine jewelry. Anne Eisenhower had a keen eye for the finest examples of the jeweler’s craft and her collection tells the fascinating and intertwining stories of patrons and collectors. Christie’s looks forward to sharing the experience of these superb objects as they embark on a global tour, culminating in our Rockefeller galleries in June.
Marc Porter, president of Christie’s Americas

The live sale will take place on June 7 with additional jewels offered from Ms. Eisenhower’s collection to be featured in Christie’s Jewels Online open for bidding on May 30 and close on June 8.

Collana di Cartier Waterfall con diamanti e zaffiri

Christie’s is truly honored to have been entrusted with the magnificent jewels of Anne Eisenhower, a woman who led an extraordinary life of taste, style and philanthropy while remaining true to her values. From the exquisite designs of Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels to important gemstones, this auction presents a unique opportunity for collectors to obtain a jewel that has been carefully acquired over a period of 40 years by a true artist of the taste.
Daphne Lingon, Head of Jewelry Department, Christie’s Americas

Anello con diamanti di colore D da 20,54 carati

Una spilla della serie Panthère di Cartier con diamanti gialli, onice e smeraldi

Bracciale di diamanti art déco di Cartier

Orecchini con diamanti e rubini di Van Cleef & Arpels

Collana con diamanti e smeraldo di Van Cleef & Arpels

The jewels of Tefaf Maastricht

Published on March 7, 2023

news

Anna Hu, bracciale Enchanted Lily, con un peridoto da 53,92 carati, gemme colorate, diamanti

In Maastricht (Netherlands) Tefaf is back (11-19 March) and, alongside antiques and works of art from the 270 exhibitors, it also presents, as always, extraordinary high jewellery. On display are vintage designer jewels, but also new ones, signed by Maisons that choose Tefaf to showcase their new creations, such as the German Hemmerle, Boghossian, Otto Jakob, but there are also jewelery brands such as van Cleef & Arpels .

Collana in oro, smeraldi, zaffiri e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels

Among the new jewels present, new pieces presented by the artist-designer Anna Hu should not be forgotten, such as the Enchanted Lily Bangle bracelet, centered by a 53.92-carat peridot with colored gems, diamonds and gems. But even vintage jewelry has a special charm. For example, the heritage necklace and clip pendant by Van Cleef & Arpels created in 1971 in yellow gold, with 13 engraved emeralds for approximately 35.52 carats, 14 Burmese sapphires also engraved for approximately 32.17 carats and diamonds.

Fabergé, spilla in oro, diamanti e crisopraso

Another piece out of the ordinary is the brooch with a chrysoprase in the center signed by Fabergé: it has an extraordinary provenance, which includes three European royal families, Danish, Greek and Russian imperial. Last note: last year at Tefaf (which was held in June due to covid) a sensational, incredible robbery took place, with the theft of a necklace worth 27 million euros. But it seems that no one has been put off by this precedent.

Boghossian, orecchini con conch pearl, diamanti gialli e zaffiri rosa

Hemmerle, anello con diamante brillante di 5,68 carati e diamanti reverse per 2,5 carati

All about amethyst

Published on February 11, 2023

Anello Aurora in oro, ametista, rodolite di Shaun Leane

The stone of February is the amethyst. But this gem also it like in the other 11 months of the year. Discover the qualities of the amethyst in this article ♦
Has always been considered a sort of talisman: Sumerians and Babylonians and Egyptians wore amulets made with amethyst for protection, and for the ancient Chinese was a material with which to store spices, healing balms and ointments. In nature this variety of quartz is found inside of stony masses and quarries, geodes, crystals containing groupings. One of the most famous is the one discovered in Brazil in the area of Rio Grande Sol, 30 meters long and 15 meters completely covered with amethyst crystals width, so large that it must be dug in the ground. Amethyst is also the stone of February.

Anello della collezione Tiple-Trêfle. Oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, ametista, zaffiri — Isabelle Langlois, anello della collezione Tiple-Trêfle. Oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, ametista, zaffiri

The color range. It is truly remarkable, ranging from light pink to deep purple with many intermediate shades, as the example lavender or lilac, christened Rose de France, or the darkest shade almost bluish shades from red or pink typical of the stones from Russia , whose mines are now exhausted. Then there are amethysts Uruguay and Arizona with a deep blue-purple, the Zambian light purple. All owe their color to iron impurities. Some are two-tone, gold and purple, are called ametryne, and consist of quartz citrine and amethyst. Others, are green and are baptized prisiolite.

Orecchini con ametista e diamanti by Michele della Valle

Origin. There are many mineral sources, practically in almost all over the world, but the most important producers are Brazil, Uruguay, Madagascar and Zambia. A good quality stones are also found in the United States, South Korea and Austria.

Anello Sissi con agata intagliata e ametista — Anello Sissi di Sanalitro con agata intagliata e ametista

Rating. Until the 18th century it was considered a precious gem as much as a diamond, a sapphire, an emerald or a ruby. The most valuable specimens came from the Ural Mountains of Russia, but the discovery of large deposits in Brazil and other countries has largely decreased the price. Currently the main evaluation criterion is the color: the more intense and more uniform the quality. Attention to the nuances, must be neither brown nor gray.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, ametista e agata di Voga Gioielli

Purity. It is a gem of type II, so it can have slight inclusions visible to the naked eye but if its dark color hides, it becomes more difficult in the pink variety, lavender or green. It is often found in large, it can be up to 20 carats, and is almost always natural because the heat treatment and thus the cost of such a convenient stone does not make sense.

Anello in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti

Collana vinage in oro e argento con ametista

The jewels dedicated to Christmas

Published on December 22, 2022

Showroom

Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti di Lydia Courteille

The jewels dedicated to Christmas: to wear every year for at least ten days

There are jewels that can only be worn at Christmas, immediately before or immediately after. Of course, in spring it is not forbidden to choose a necklace that has as a pendant Santa Claus, but you could be mistaken for a dormouse that has just woken up from hibernation. The Christmas theme, with stars, poinsettia (the plant commonly called Christmas Star), snowflakes or packages that symbolize the gifts, is quite common. But, before buying a jewel dedicated to the most celebrated festival in the West, think about it: you can wear it only for a dozen days a year.

Any case, there are many Maison, even high-end jewelry, that have dedicated some pieces to Christmas.

Orecchini della collezione Rose de Noël di Van Cleef & Arpels

For example, the Rose de Noël series by Van Cleef & Arpels. Or the Christmas tree with Mikimoto pearl. Tiffany, instead, proposes a pendant in the shape of a gift bag, in the classic blue color of the Maison. But perhaps the most refined of all is the London ring Garrard, in rose gold and diamonds, shaped like a bow. Years ago Oscar Herman instead dedicated a platinum brooch with diamonds to Santa Claus, while Chanel proposed a comet-shaped necklace.

Spilla albero di Natale di Mikimoto, in oro e perla Akoya

Ciondolo Tiffany (320 euro) — Ciondolo Tiffany

Collana Stella cometa di Chanel, oro bianco e diamanti

Anello di Garrard in oro rosa e diamanti

Oscar Heyman, Babbo Natale, spilla in platino con 133 diamanti, 68 rubini

Spilla Stella di Natale, con 24 rubini baguette, 75 rubini squadrati, 35 diamanti, — Oscar Heyman, spilla Stella di Natale, con 24 rubini baguette, 75 rubini squadrati, 35 diamanti

Online jewels between Panthère and Serpenti

Published on November 30, 2022

news

Anello Panthère di Cartier in oro bianco, diamanti e uno zaffiro rosa

Online jewelry auctions have become a real revolution for fans of the genre. In fact, they allow you to be present virtually from all over the world, and this will also be the case for the new online auction at Christie’s. The Jewels Online are on sale until December 8, with a selection that includes jewels of various kinds, from ancient to contemporary, as well as diamonds and colored stones. The catalog includes jewels from Maisons and designers such as Belperron, Boucheron, Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Harry Winston, Hermès, Oscar Heyman & Brothers, Raymond Yard, Taffin, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Verdura.

Bulgari, bracciale Serpenti in oro bianco e diamanti

Over half of the sale is offered without reserve and will be on display during Christie’s Luxury Week at the Rockefeller Center galleries in New York City December 2-5. The highest expectations are for an unmounted D-color diamond weighing a hefty 50.06 carats (estimate $2-4 million). Among the jewels are a Panthère ring by Cartier with colored sapphires, multiple gems and diamonds (estimate 40,000-60,000), and the Taj Mahal earrings with diamonds (20,000-30,000) by the same Maison. Another collector’s item is a Serpenti bracelet with Bulgari diamonds (40,000-60,000). The sale also features pieces from private collections, including those of Susan Lasker Brody, the David and Laura Finn Collection, owned by Virginia Kraft-Payson and Bourne Strassburger.

Orecchini Taj Mahal di Cartier in oro bianco e diamanti

Anello eternity in oro bianco e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels

Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels a forma di leopardo

LOT 61 Van Cleef Arpels Onyx and Diamond Pendant and Necklace — Collana di Van Cleef & Arpels in oro, diamanti, onice

LOT 63 Van Cleef Arpels Lapis Lazuli and Gold Vintage Alhambra Necklace — Collana Alhambra di Van Cleef & Arpels in oro e lapislazzuli

Anello di Harry Winston con rubino e diamanti

Blue diamonds and Evita’s jewels at Christie’s

Published on November 20, 2022

news

Diamante taglio smeraldo Fancy Vivid Yellow, Internally Flawless di 13,75 carati di de Beers

It’s not just the 13.15-carat pink diamond estimated at up to $35 million at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction at Rockefeller Center on Dec. 6. Together with the ring with the diamond, the auction house will offer jewels signed by Bulgari, Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and other Maisons. In addition to the aforementioned pink diamond, the largest fancy blue diamond ever to appear at auction, weighing 31.62 carats, set in a pendant surrounded by diamonds, will also be on sale. The diamond is estimated at between 10 and 15 million dollars. Another top jewel is the diamond necklace with an exceptional 86.64 carat (estimated 5-7 million) D-color pear-cut diamond as a pendant. The 1948 Cartier-mounted diamond Palm-Tree brooch (estimate 500,000-700,000) also stands out. The brooch was part of Margaret Thompson Biddle’s collection and features a 13.30-carat circular brilliant-cut diamond.

Ciondolo con diamante blu di 31,62 carati

Also among the magnificent jewels are a 2.21 carat (1,200,000-1,800,000) fancy deep blue brilliant cut oval colored diamond ring, a Diamond Torque bangle, set with an internally flawless heart-shaped diamond D color of 50.05 carats (3,700,000-4,500,000), and The De Beers Yellow, an exceptional Fancy Vivid Yellow, Internally Flawless emerald-cut diamond of 13.75 carats (1,100,000–1,800,000).

Collana di diamanti con un eccezionale diamante taglio pera di colore D da 86,64 carati

Alongside these six-figure pieces, the auction includes a selection of iconic jewels by Van Cleef and Arpels. An exceptional lot is the Bouquet brooch with retro sapphire, colored sapphire and ruby which was part of the collection of Argentine first lady Evita Perón (60,000-80,000). The use of materials and the overall scale of the brooch is an homage to the retro period. Since it was purchased at an auction from Evita’s personal collection in 1957, it has remained in private hands and has never been worn. Additional Van Cleef & Arpels highlights include the Hawaii Jewelery Suite with Rubies, Sapphires and Diamonds (100,000-150,000) and two examples of the house’s iconic setting technique, the Mystery-Set Flower Brooch with Rubies and Emeralds (400,000 -600,000) and Mystery-Set flower earrings with rubies and diamonds (120,000-180,000). Finally, noteworthy is the Panthère de Cartier bracelet with aquamarine, diamonds and multiple gems, set with a 71.45-carat (200,000-400,000 carat) cabochon aquamarine.
The sale will be on view in New York from December 2-5.

Bracciale Panthère di Cartier con con acquamarina cabochon da 71,45 carati

Spilla di diamanti Palm-Tree montata da Cartier del 1948

Bracciale rigido Diamond Torque, incastonato con un diamante a forma di cuore internamente impeccabile di colore D di 50,05 carati

Spilla Bouquet con zaffiro retrò, zaffiro colorato e rubino appartenuta a Evita Peron — Spilla Bouquet di Van Cleef & Arpels con zaffiro retrò, zaffiro colorato e rubino appartenuta a Evita Peron

Van Cleef & Arpels story on show in London

Published on October 2, 2022

news

The long history of Van Cleef & Arpels began in 1896, although the actual foundation dates back to 1906. The Maison’s initiative in Paris is due to the Dutch diamond cutter Alfred Van Cleef and his father-in-law, Salomon Arpels. A lot of time has passed since then, but Van Cleef & Arpels remains one of the most famous jewelry brands in the world, also thanks to the fact that it was chosen by celebrities as royalty such as Grace Kelly, the Princess of Wales, Ava Gardner, Farah Pahlavi, Eva Perón, Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Windsor (to whom the idea of the zip necklace is attributed) or Queen Nazli of Egypt. The jewels of the jewelry company, which is now part of the Swiss Richemont group, are often in the shape of flowers, animals, dancers.

La collana Zip, uno dei gioielli più famosi di Van Cleef & Arpels

And the historical jewels, which are now part of the Maison’s collection and private collections, are exhibited at the Design Museum in London until 20 October. The exhibition, entitled The Art of Movement, includes a hundred jewels and emphasizes the lightness and dynamism of the special pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels. The path is divided into four themes: Living Nature, Dance, Elegance and Abstract Movements. There are also sketches and drawings that tell the birth of the Maison’s jewels.

Ballerina, clip del 1952 — Ballerina, clip con turchesi e rubini del 1952

Schlumberger and Tiffany online with Christie’s

Published on September 22, 2022

news

Spilla di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro con citrino e diamanti

For fans of vintage jewelry, but not limited to, the online jewelry auction organized until 30 September by Christie’s is an opportunity to secure collector’s items. The entire catalog includes 240 lots, including 18 pieces designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. The famous designer has created many jewels that have made history, starting with the Bird on a Rock series of brooches, which in this case are with amethyst, diamonds and rubies or with citrine. Also from Schlumberger are on sale a flaming star-shaped brooch in gold and diamonds, and a brooch in the shape of a dromedary. The auction catalog includes a pair of aquamarine and tsavorite Hemmerle earrings.

Spilla a forma di dromedario di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro, con zaffiri rosa, lapislazzuli, diamanti

Other interesting pieces are signed by famous Maison, such as Cartier with a brooch in diamonds and onyx in the shape of parrots, in addition to the classic panthère, but also jewels by Bulgari, Boucheron, Buccellati, Jar, Oscar Heyman, Seaman Schepps, Taffin and Van Cleef & Arpels. More than half of the lots are offered unreservedly, an aspect appreciated by collectors and buyers.

Orecchini con acquamarina e tsavoriti di Hammerle

Spilla a forma di pappagalli in oro, platino, diamanti, onice, di Cartier

Classica Panthèere in oro, diamanti, platino, onice, smeraldi di Cartier

Bracciale con topazi, tormalina rosa, ametista, citrini, peridoto di Bulgari

Spilla a forma di stella fiammeggiante in oro 18 carati e diamanti, Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany — Spilla a forma di stella fiammeggiante in oro 18 carati e platino, con diamanti, Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany

Spilla di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro e platino, rubini, diamanti

All the Camilla jewelry

Published on September 9, 2022

Collana e orecchini di Van Cleef & Arpels

The future queen of England is Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall and wife of king Charles III. You want to know what are her jewels?

What is the collection of jewels of the new Queen of England, Camilla Duchess of Cornwall? To show the Crown Jewels, and to estimate the value, was time ago the British newspaper Daily Mail. According to a survey of the newspaper, Camilla has accumulated, 12 years after the marriage with king Charles, a considerable collection of beautiful jewelery. For example, a magnificent necklace of diamonds and rubies, which should be a gift from the king of Saudi Arabia, Abdullah, died in January 2015. The series is combined with a bracelet and earrings. A particularly eye-catching piece of jewelry, but brought tastefully, has underlined the British newspaper.

La duchessa di Cornovaglia con la preziosa collana di diamanti e rubini

Much of the jewelry are gifts, in particular of Arab sheiks. After a two-day tour in Saudi in 2006, for example, here is a 37 rubies necklace and as many diamonds, with an estimated value of nearly 1 million euro. Two years later came a set of jewels with rubies and sapphires: necklace, earrings and bracelet. Another bracelet is a tribute by the Emir of Bahrain, while a necklace, brooch and belt are the kind of the present ruler of Kuwait.

Camilla con collana di perle e fermaglio appartenuto alla bisnonna, Alice Keppel

Obviously, you must add those of the same Charles, in addition to those of the family. The Duchess, apparently, is particularly fond of his collection of pearl choker (it also owns half a dozen). Curious coincidence: the staples of the necklaces are made with precious and semi-precious belonged to her great-grandmother, Alice Keppel, the last and most famous mistress of King Edward VII. When you say keep family traditions … Anyway, Charles was always amused by the connection between Camilla and the mistress of his great-great-grandfather. So much so that, with the help of jeweler Wartski, the prince was looking to buy jewelry collection that belonged to Alice Keppel. For example, with 120 thousand euros for a tiara of diamonds and rubies that was the great-grandmother of Camilla, acquired at the time by Edward VII in Paris.

La spilla appartenuta alla regina Vittoria. Al centro il numero 60 in caratteri slavi

Charles, in any case, has bought a pink topaz by Sotheby’s, to be transformed into a clasp for a pearl necklace with three wires. He then donated the earrings Alhambra, symbol of luck, a brooch in the shape of a dancer, and one with the silhouette of dragonfly, all of Van Cleef & Arpels. The inspiration for the dancer is the result of collaboration between the jeweler Claude Arpels and choreographer George Balanchine. The ruby, which symbolizes passionate love, is said to be the favorite stone of Camilla, also because it is not associated with Diana, who preferred sapphires. Camilla has another series (as well as donated by King Abdullah) of rubies and sapphires, worth 3.5 million euro. A pin with emerald drop, which was a favorite jewelry of Princess Diana, is composed of a circle of diamonds with the insignia of three feathers of the Prince of Wales, as a pendant emerald cabochon. Remains a doubt: it was just the pendant of a necklace of Diana, it has reappeared in the form of a brooch on the lapel of the Duchess?

Due collane di diamanti, con zaffiri e smeraldi

In 2006 Camilla has also received a necklace decorated with sapphires and emeralds, valued at more than 1 million euro. The Snake Necklace is a gift of Charles in 2001, four years before their marriage: it consists of round diamonds and emerald cut, in a platinum setting. Then there is the engagement ring by 250 thousand euro: belonged to Carlo’s grandmother, Queen Elizabeth. This ring with diamonds, art deco, it was estimated 250 thousand euro.
The brooch Ladies of North Wales is another element of the collection that belonged to the Queen Mother. The brooch of Hesse diamonds, diamonds and sapphires, has a long history: it was given to Queen Victoria from grandchildren Hesse, Germany, for her Diamond Jubilee.

Camilla chose to wear for his 60th birthday the diamond necklace worn by the Queen Mother for the coronation of her husband, in 1937. A necklace commissioned in 1858 by Queen Victoria using two insignia of the Order of the Garter and the hilt of a sword. The original series included 28 stones, and is estimated to be worth around 7 million Euros.

Camilla con collana di perle e grande smeraldo

Camilla indossa uno dei chocker di perle

Camilla con una delle spille della sua collezione

Due tra le preziose collane della collezione di Camilla

How to recognize Art Deco jewelry

Published on August 22, 2022

Campus

Bracciale Art Déco con diamanti e rubini di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1940

Art Deco style jewels were the protagonists of the 1920s and 1930s, but have been rediscovered by the great Maison. Can you recognize an Art Deco ring or necklace? Here is a quick guide to the Roaring Twenties ♦ jewelry

Jewelry that was fashionable a century ago is still in fashion today. Jewelry at that time was sparkling, decadent and at the same time poignant. The geometric designs, the accent on clear shapes, often flat colors, with an architectural and classic style at the same time, have made Art Déco jewels timeless pieces. And not only do they like the original ones, made in those years by the great Maison, but that style is continually a source of inspiration for contemporary designers.

Bracciale stile art déco in platino, diamanti e onice — Neil Lane, bracciale stile art déco in platino, diamanti e onice

Mix of shapes
Like a sparkling cocktail, the jewels of the twenties were an intoxicating mixture of inspirations and influences. A bridge between the stylization of the Ballets Russes that excited Paris and the emotion of the Jazz Age: speed, race, the rhythm of the machine, Cubism, African art, oriental exoticism. These influences have also reverberated on the creations of luxury and design. A style that ended up going down in history as Art Deco, after 1925 Paris ExpositionInternationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The role of Cartier This style has a slow evolution. He had also been training for the work of Cartier, who around 1910 began to have a greater stylization of the floral motifs, with compositions composed of small carved gems. Like the series known as Tutti-frutti, a riot of emeralds, pearls, rubies and sapphires. Now these jewels are among the most sought after, thanks to the most typical features of Cartier’s Art Deco pieces. Perhaps not everyone knows, among other things, that the idea of this design was influenced by Indian jewelry, thanks to Cartier’s relations with a maharajah who arrived in Paris to make the traditional jewels of his country, but revisited in a modern style. The combination of blue and green, based on traditional Indian enamel work, and techniques such as jewelry-sculpture, played a vital role in the development of Cartier’s Art Deco jewelry.

Il collier art déco di Jean Fouquet con acquamarina e lacca

Even today this style like it
An All-Fruit bracelet from Cartier was sold for $ 1.4 million from Sotheby. But the most famous example of the style is the Collier Hindou, created by Cartier in 1936 for Daisy Fellowes, heiress of the Singer sewing machine company and obsessive jewelry collector. In Van Cleef & Arpels the same Daisy Fellowes in 1926 and 1928 commissioned a pair of Indian-inspired bracelets (or anklets): they were conceived as a deep band of diamonds arranged in a geometric pattern, reminiscent of a Persian rug, with a luxuriant fringe of emerald drops.

Cartier, bracciale Tutti i fruttiCartier, bracciale Tutti i frutti

New cuts and exoticism
In this period the stones were often cut into small squares or oblong rectangles, combined with an elegant design, with moldings, roundings or cabochons. As in the famous bracelets with an Egyptian style frieze by Arpels, in which the scenes are drawn with impeccable cut colored gems. Even Cartier was not immune to the Egyptian vein, which was part of the climate of exoticism that has expanded to the Persian, Chinese and Japanese designs, which began in the early twentieth century. In some cases the Cartier jewels have even used, incorporating them, fragments of antiquities from the past, such as Egyptian scarabs or amulets. From this exoticism also come the bold combinations of colors, which are a surprising feature of Art Deco jewelry: the mix of blue and green, sapphires with emeralds, turquoise with lapis, the contrast of coral and onyx, or coral with emeralds, diamonds and onyx.

Live the monochrome
In the mid-1920s a change of pace, an alternative mood, with monochromatic colors and black and white compositions, arrived instead. In 1925 Tiffany proposed a ring with an onyx surface, in black segments, and diamonds. A scheme that was favored by the great talent of the designer Suzanne Belperron, in her work with Bernard Herz. The Belperron synthesized in a certain sense the new woman of the years between 1920 and 1930. Her jewels, like all the most beautiful Art Deco pieces, were beyond the fashion of the moment, which had adopted appropriate shapes to the new silhouette feminine, that is, less designed clothes for the “curve to them” of the Edwardian woman. In those years the clothes are instead proposed with a streamlined line, with a cylindrical, tubular, short, sleeveless shape. Maybe with fringes, beads or sequins for the dance, while the hairstyles go to the garçonne, with the short haircut, which brings out long earrings.

Spilla di diamanti e rubino, Van Cleef & Arpels , 1937

Change the horizon
The design of the twentieth-thirties jewel was generally vertical. The pins had long pins, the jabot or double-headed cliquet, worn perhaps in a corner of the unusual dress, on the belt, on the cloche hats, near the neckline. And the necklaces were generally sautoir, that is, long and loose strands of beads, often with a sensual bow at the end. For the great heiresses and worldly like Daisy Fellowes, Mrs. Harrison Williams or Barbara Hutton, these fabulously modern and daring jewels were part of their personality. Yet, those who were then daring designs, have become classics. Giulia Netrese

Spilla art déco del 1925 con lapislazzuli, corallo, giada, onice, diamanti

Cartier, Art Déco. Bracciale Tutti Frutti con diamanti, smeraldi, rubini, zaffiri

Bracciale Art Dèco di Cartier, 1922. Corallo, onice, diamanti

Anello Art Deco con rubino e diamanti, circa 1930. Prezzo: 10.500 sterline — Anello Art Deco con rubino e diamanti, circa 1930

Cartier, orecchini di diamanti tagliati a smeraldo e smeraldi a goccia, 1934

Moi & Toi, story of a mythic ring

Published on July 23, 2022

Showroom/Rings

Moi et Toi, a shape of ring that is timeless. Like love. Here are some of the most fascinating rings Moi et Toi ♦

Two diamonds are better than one, especially in a ring. Who could argue otherwise? And not to copy a famous advertisement for De Beers, but because the ring style Toi et Moi, which has existed for centuries, with two stones on the ends that touch, exactly opposite, is the symbol of the union. Napoleon had engraved in 1796 on the shank of the engagement ring for his future wife Josephine, “You and me (toi et moi in French) , forever.” Hence the name, and the growing popularity of this type of setting, which reached its peak between the 19th and the 20th century.

Perhaps because it traced the romantic fashion of courting chair or sofa tete-a-tete with two seats positioned in S, so as to be able to speak, looking at each other in front. In reality, it has never gone out of fashion: John Kennedy gave a crossover Van Cleef & Arpels engagement ring to Jacqueline, with an emerald and a colorless diamond princess cut. Even the Queen of Denmark Margret had received one with two colorless diamonds six carat square cut, also made by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1967.

Anello Moi et Toi di Margaret di Danimarca

The jewelery brand continues to offer this style in the collection Snowflake flower shaped. And it is this detail that distinguishes the contemporary pieces: there is limited to offering stones proportions similar perhaps with contrasting colors, but they are decorative elements confront one another. Of course, when it comes to exceptional stones symmetry is fundamental to enhance their beauty. For example, in some specimens of Bulgari, that sometimes you can find in the jewelry auctions or those sold by Graff, Harry Winston, Alexander Reza, Messika or Picchiotti. Here a selection of the most beautiful and precious you can in the rooms for important customers of jewelers.

Anello Toi & Moi in oro bianco e smalto nero con zaffiro rosa, smeraldo colombiano, diamanti — Nikos Koulis, anello Toi & Moi in oro bianco e smalto nero con zaffiro rosa, smeraldo colombiano, diamanti

Lavorazione di un anello Toi & Moi by Messika

Anello Toi et Moi in diamanti bianchi e fancy yellow — Picchiotti, anello Toi et Moi in diamanti bianchi e fancy yellow

Anello toi et moi in oro, 1939 — Verdura, anello toi et moi in oro, 1939

Anello Toi et Moi di Bulgari, con diamante e smeraldo

Collezione Timeless Wonderss. Anello Toi e Moi, in oro bianco, diamanti, tormaline Paraiba e rubellite del Mozambico — Vania Leles, aollezione Timeless Wonderss. Anello Toi e Moi, in oro bianco, diamanti, tormaline Paraiba e rubellite del Mozambico

Messika, anello Toi et Moi Poires con due diamanti a goccia da 7 carati uno incolore e l’altro rosa

Graff Diamonds, anello con diamante Fancy Brown Orange Internally Flawless da 5,01 carati e un diamante Fancy Vivid Orange Yellow da 5,05 carati entrambi a forma di pera, con pavé di diamanti incolore sul gambo

De Beers, collezione Aria anello Toi et Moi con due diamanti taglio brillante e strati spirale di pavé su oro bianco

Giampiero Bodino, anello colllezione I tesori del mare in oro rosa, corallo e perle nere Tahiti coltivate

Boucheron, anello Toi et Moi collezione Serpent Bohème in oro bianco e 16 diamanti taglio rotondo. Prezzo: 7.600 euro

Taffin, James de Givanchy per Sotheby’s Diamonds anello in oro rosa e bianco con due diamanti taglio goccia e diamanti taglio rotondo rosa e incolore

PasqualeBruni1 — Pasquale Bruni, collezione Bon Ton anello Toi et Moi in oro rosa, calcedonio in due tonalità e diamanti taglio brillante

Chopard, anello Toi et Moi edizione limitata in oro bianco con due diamanti taglio cuore di da 3,03 e 3,01 carati circondati da pavé di diamanti

Picchiotti1 — Picchiotti, anello collezione La Marquise con due diamanti incolore taglio marchesa circondati da rubini taglio baguette

Alexandre Reza, anello con due diamanti taglio pera, uno incolore da 5,42 carati e l’altro Fancy Vivid azzurro da 5, 02 carati venduto in un’asta di Christie’s

The legendary diamond of Van Cleef & Arpels

Published on July 15, 2022

COLLANE/alta gioielleria/bracciale/Showroom/Rings

Anello com diamante taglio ovale di 18,32 carati, assieme a rubini con tecnica Mystery Setting

Imagine buying a huge 910-carat diamond, the fifth largest in the world, for $ 40 million. And then, after admiring it, imagine making it into small pieces. Let’s say, 82 parts. This is what Van Cleef & Arpels chose. The great Parisian Maison in 2018 bought Lesotho Legend, big rough diamond. The stone, in addition to being gigantic in size, is also of the highest quality in color and clarity, aspects that further increase its value.

Lesotho Legend, grande diamante grezzo di 910 carati

But such a diamond can only be exhibited in a museum. Or transformed into a collection: Legend of Diamonds, which Van Cleef & Arpels presented during Couture Week in Paris. However, deciding to split such a large diamond is not easy. The subdivision work lasted for years, as did the composition of the large collection, which also houses other precious stones, such as rubies and emeralds. Van Cleef & Arpels is also famous for its incredible setting technique, which can make the metal that fixes the gems disappear. Technique that has been used extensively for the Legend of Diamonds collection.

Anello con diamante taglio pera, smeraldi e zaffiri incastonati con la tecnica mystery setting

The result is a series of jewels that manage to balance opulence and sobriety thanks to the Mystery Setting. There are earrings and necklaces in art deco style, with lots of diamonds (not only those obtained from Lesotho Legend) together with colored stones, which form precise geometries, where the imagination is at the service of an impeccable processing technique. Or rings that feature an oval diamond over 18 carats, such as Couture Mystérieuse. In addition, as it seems to be mandatory this year, some pieces, in particular the necklaces, can also be disassembled, with pendants that detach to turn into brooches.

Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti ispirati a un motivo anni Venti

Collana Atours Mystérieux trasformabile con diamanti e rubini. La pietra centrale è di 79,35 carati

Bracciale Floraison de Diamants in stile art déco. Diamanti montati su platino

Collana Chevron Mysterieux con diamanti e smeraldi. Il pendente si può staccare

The jewelers that close in Russia

Published on March 9, 2022

news

The real drama is that of human lives lost in vain, of overwhelmed lives, of lives that will never be the same. But the war in Ukraine also causes a smaller, much smaller, but not irrelevant, drama related to jobs, in the West and in Russia, which will be lost to a stupid aggression. Both Russians and Westerners are dealing with the inevitable sanctions announced in time, before the invasion, which will have an impact on the accounts of companies, for example those of jewelry, as well as on the people who work there. The collapse of the ruble and the blocking of the credit card service, in fact, led many jewelry companies to suspend their business. Maybe they will close completely or reopen, if it all ends, but who knows when.

At the time of writing this short article, the last Western brand to close the boutique in Moscow was Swarovski, while Tiffany was among the first to lower the shutter, along with Vuitton. Others have already done so, others will follow. The list of Western Maisons that have opened a boutique in Moscow, St. Petersburg or other Russian cities is long. In Moscow, for example, they have a boutique Chopard, Van Cleef & Arpels, Akillis, Piaget, De Beers, H. Stern, Stephen Webster, Carrera y Carrera, Mauboussin, Mont-Blanc, Dior, Chaumet, Pandora, Frey Wille, Cartier , Trollbeads, Vuitton, Thomas Sabo, Bulgari, Pomellato, Adamas, Damiani, Buccellati. Other brands, such as Pasquale Bruni or Alcozer, are distributed in non-owned jewelers, or in airport duty free shops.

According to an analysis concerning Italian jewelery conducted by ICE (the state body for exports) in general, the Russian buyer is oriented towards medium or medium-high level jewelery. Also according to the analysis, the daily use of rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces, especially in the capital and large cities, is now seen as a form of accessory to one’s image, not necessarily combined with luxury clothing or for events special. The favorite items of Russian women are rings, chains and earrings; men prefer chains and bracelets, while brooches and necklaces are bought by a minority of the female population, while typically male jewelry such as cufflinks and tie pins are in low demand. In recent years, however, silver jewelery has been more successful than gold, due to the unfavorable ruble-euro exchange rate. Italy (2019 data) exports about 77 million jewels to Russia, about 22 million France, the United States 21 million and the United Kingdom 23 million. However, the one who exports the most to Russia is China with over 88 million.

Van Cleef & Arpels story in Milan

Published on December 3, 2021

news

Collana e bracciale Zip degli anni Cinquanta

There are milestones in the history of art, such as Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, or in architecture, such as the Parthenon in Athens. But there are milestones in jewelry too. Some of these landmarks were created by Van Cleef & Arpels. An example is the Zip necklace, the result of an exceptional goldsmith technique and an uncommon idea of an uncommon person like the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, who in 1938 would have suggested this zip-shaped necklace to Renée Puissant. daughter of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef. A difficult task: the designer only managed to make it in 1950.

This and other creations of the Parisian Maison are now on display, until January 9, 2022, in the Van Cleef & Arpels boutique in via Monte Napoleone 10, in Milan. The exhibition of collectible jewelry is called Creations beyond time and includes 32 pieces of fine jewelry and watches with a high artistic content. The jewels span a period from the Thirties to the Seventies and are part of the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection. Pieces that are accompanied by 67 others created more recently, as well as archival documents that testify to the great sources of inspiration of the Maison: couture, nature, distant cultures, dance and love. The lower floor of the Milanese boutique was set up ad hoc to offer a thematic itinerary, also with creations never exhibited before in Italy.

Collana e bracciale Corde, in oro con dettagli in diamanti

Another example of a jewel that marked an era is the Corde necklace, inspired by the world of Parisian couture. In the 1940s the Corde collection was known for its flexibility and ease of combinations. The intertwined gold created knots and trimming motifs while the ropes were adapted to clips, earrings and secret watches. Thanks to the particular closure, the 1947 Corde necklace (on display for the first time in Italy) can be worn at the desired length. Its aesthetic inspired the Liane collection, in which the height of the pompoms can be adjusted thanks to the clasp.

The Paillettes motif, created by Van Cleef & Arpels towards the end of the Thirties, is reinterpreted today with the Bouton d’or collection: necklaces, rings, bracelets and earrings with feminine combinations and always new colors such as the rose gold set, white gold and diamonds on show in Milan, with a play between concave and convex gold elements, which adds volume and dynamism to the creation.

Una versione contemporanea della collana Corde, con chiusura regolabile in diamanti e ametista

Among the memorable jewels of Van Cleef & Arpels there is also the Couscous necklace, created in 1948, probably following a trip by the Arpels brothers to Morocco. The Arpels family has transformed these grains into a distinctive aesthetic, thus evolving the technique used to decorate the edges of jewels. Still used today in the Maison’s workshops, this craftsmanship inspired the Perlée collection, for example with the transformable Perlée couleurs pendant, the Perlée clovers and Perlée diamants bracelets, with the Perlée Signature and Perlée diamants pavé rings. The different types of gold enhance the sparkle of the gold pearls, the same used for the Couscous necklace, which features the Bagatelle floral motif (reference to the Jardins de Bagatelle in Boulogne, near Paris) in the colors of the French flag.

Flowers have always been one of the sources of inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels. The Marguerite brooch is from 1907, while in 1925 it was the turn of the Fleurs enlacées, roses rouges et blanches bracelet: jewels that won the Grand Prix at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes de Paris. Over the years, the Maison has represented many floral styles, such as the Two Clovers ring from 1950, the Trifogli brooch from 1952 and the Fiore earrings from 1955. And today with the Folie des Prés collection.

Flowers are also the basis of the Rose de Noël collection which, like its homonymous flower (hellebore), opens in winter just in time for the winter holidays. The exhibition includes a pair of historic Rose de Noël earrings in green agate from 1977 and more recent ones in gray mother-of-pearl and onyx.

The seventies are the era of Entre les Doigts rings, invented by Van Cleef & Arpels: another milestone in jewelry. The latest Entre les Doigts from the Two Butterfly collection are exhibited at the Milan exhibition, which allow the grace and beauty of flying butterflies to rest on the fingers with elegant wings in ornamental stones or mother-of-pearl and diamonds, and from the floral themed collections Frivole, Lotus, Cosmos and Socrates.

Toujours sur le thème végétal, le trèfle à quatre feuilles, symbole de chance, est le motif qui a inspiré la collection Alhambra, à partir de 1968. Une collection porte-bonheur, étant donné qu’elle est toujours proposée aujourd’hui. En revanche, « pour avoir de la chance, il faut croire à la chance », disait Jacques Arpels, le neveu d’Estelle Arpels. Des célébrités comme Françoise Hardy, Romy Schneider portaient des bijoux de la collection, tandis que la princesse Grace de Monaco aimait superposer plus de motifs en pierres ornementales.

En 1954, Van Cleef & Arpels crée une collection La Boutique, également portée par la Princesse Grace de Monaco, la Princesse Soraya d’Iran ou Hélène Beaumont. La collection comprend des figures de mammifères, d’oiseaux et de papillons, aux tonalités ludiques, bienveillantes et poétiques, expression des années 60. Les miniatures représentent l’adieu au formalisme dans le port de bijoux de soirée pour un style non conventionnel. Comme pour les broches Petit Oiseau de 1961, les broches Tigre de 1968 et Girafe de 1972. En parallèle, les pin’s de la collection contemporaine Lucky Animals renouvellent le bestiaire traditionnel de la Maison.

Pour la première fois en Italie, le collier en or jaune et améthyste de 1971 est exposé. Le style révèle des influences indiennes, qui se dissolvent dans l’écho des colliers Art Déco des années 1920, qui comportent, comme ici, des pendentifs. glands, pampille.

Collana in stile indiano con ametiste e diamanti, assieme a una clutch interamente in oro con chiusura in diamanti

Les bracelets Ludo (surnom de Louis Arpels) font également partie de la collection de bijoux présents dans l’exposition milanaise, comprenant géométries et styles graphiques, pierres précieuses et souvenirs Art Déco. En plus des trois pièces historiques Ludo, avec un tricotage spécial, un bracelet et un éclat de montre, qui ne dévoile le cadran qu’après avoir tourné le motif lapis lazuli ou corail.

Nées en 1935, les montres Cadenas ont permis aux femmes de regarder l’heure en toute discrétion, dans le plein respect des conventions sociales. Wallis, la duchesse de Windsor susmentionnée, en possédait un en platine et en diamants. Les exemplaires contemporains présentés sont en or et diamants.

Bracciali della collezione Ludo in maglia d'oro e rubini con chiusura in diamanti — Bracciali della collezione Ludo in maglia d’oro e rubini con chiusura in diamanti

L’un des jalons signés par Van Cleef & Arpels concerne la technique Serti Mystérieux. Breveté par la Maison en 1933, il représente encore aujourd’hui un véritable défi pour la joaillerie. La micro-mosaïque de pierres précieuses est soutenue par des pistes invisibles, qui obligent les maîtres lapidaires à intervenir sur chaque pierre. Le niveau de virtuosité augmente dans le cas des surfaces courbes. Ce procédé complexe a récemment évolué grâce au raffinement du Serti Mystérieux Navette, qui permet de reproduire la vitalité des plumes ou des pétales, et du Serti Mystérieux Vitrail, qui embellit les deux faces d’une même création. Exposée à Milan, la bague Céroessa en or blanc et or rose avec rubis sertis en corolle Serti Mystérieux taille chamois autour d’un diamant de 10,16 carats dialogue avec la bague Entre ouverte de 1956, dans laquelle le rubis invisible serti d’un le diamant se dévoile au centre d’anneaux d’or jaune et de platine.

Boutique Van Cleef & Arpels via Monte Napoleone, 10
20121 Milan
Jusqu’au 9 janvier 2022
Du lundi au samedi de 10h30 à 19h,
dimanche de 11 à 19

La locandina della mostra «Creazioni oltre il tempo»

In Wonderland with Mimi So

Published on November 20, 2021

Showroom/Rings/COLLANE

Anello Wonderland in oro e diamanti con pappagallino africano

Mimi So, designer of New York, surprises with high quality jewelry inspired by unusual subjects ♦ ︎

Oriental charm, but American accent: Mimi So was born and raised in New York. She is one of those designers who started out with an advantage: she saw precious stones in her parents’ workshop at an early age. Daughter of immigrants from China and Hong Kong. She is the youngest of three brothers. Her parents struggled after emigrating to the United States, but eventually opened three jewelers in Manhattan’s Chinatown. The designer started working in her parents’ shop when she was eight, becoming a third-generation jeweler. Then, she graduated from Parson’s School of Design and started working in an advertising agency. But she returned to the family business, managing one of the stores and creating jewelry for the customers. Mimi opened her boutique on the corner of 5th Avenue and 47th Street in Manhattan’s Diamond District in 1998.

It is not surprising, therefore, that after his studies, Mimi chose to launch the brand with her name. And she wins. So much so that in 2007 Johann Rupert, then president of the Richemont group (in which there are brands like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Giampiero Bodino) proposed to buy the majority stake in Mimi So. Nothing to do, the designer decided to remain independent and, on balance, did not make a mistake. Her jewels, which often reach four-figure figures, are appreciated and sought after.

Orecchini a bottone in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti neri e rubini

Modern and classic at the same time, the style of Mimi So uses colored stones, the designer’s passion, together with unconventional sources of inspiration, like for the collection dedicated to Alice in Wonderland. To give for every day of non-birthday.

Orecchini in oro bianco e nero, con diamanti, zaffiri rosa e opale acqua

Anello in oro bianco e giallo, con diamanti e opale intagliato a forma di coniglio

Orecchini Phoenix in oro giallo e diamanti

Anello con fiocco in oro bianco e diamanti

Gems and high jewelery by Van Cleef & Arpels in Paris

Published on June 17, 2021

news

Collana in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1929

The exhibitions are back, even those of jewels. A special exhibition is the one organized in Paris in collaboration with Van Cleef & Arpels. It is Gems, a path that allows visitors to directly connect the world of mineralogy with that of jewelry. Before being set on rings, necklaces and earrings, gems are simply minerals found deep in the earth, where they have been buried for millions of years. Van Cleef & Arpels shows how stones can be reborn to new life when they are transformed into works of art: the exhibition includes over 500 minerals, gems and art objects from the collections of the Natural History Museum in Paris and more than 200 gems and jewelry creations of the French Maison.

The pieces of high jewelry that can be admired are many, such as the Bird of Paradise clip created in 1942 and made of yellow gold, platinum, rubies, sapphires and diamonds. Or the emerald and diamond necklace composed by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1922. And, again, the most recent 1976 necklace made with carved tourmalines, amethysts and diamonds. But the list of jewelery masterpieces selected by Lise Macdonald, director of heritage and exhibitions at Van Cleef & Arpels is long. For lovers of gems, but also for mineralogy enthusiasts, it is a party not to be missed.

Collana in oro giallo con tormaline intagliate, ametiste e diamanti, 1976

Clip Fucsia con diamanti e rubini con la tecnica serti mysterieux

Clip Bird of Paradise in oro giallo, platino, rubini, zaffiri, diamanti, 1942