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All About Platinum

Want to buy a platinum ring? Here is what you need to know about platinum, one of the most precious metals used in jewelry, particularly for rings. And so, it’s better gold or platinum? ♦

“Do you prefer gold or platinum?”. It is one of the classic questions that usually hear who goes by the jeweler to buy a ring, in particular for the engagement or marriage. Who is not an expert you end up choosing the least expensive metal: gold. But to know the characteristics of what is the most rare and noble material, platinum, could lead to making a different choice.

Bracciale stile art déco in platino, diamanti e onice
Neil Lane, art deco style bracelet in platinum, diamonds and onyx

Features. The name platinum is derived from the Spanish word platina, which is literally translated into “little silver.” It’s very rare. And so it is also much more expensive than gold. It comes together with nickel and copper minerals, mainly in South Africa, where it is concentrated 80% of world production. Platinum is one of less alterable metals: has outstanding corrosion resistance, even at high temperatures, and is therefore considered a noble metal.

La corona realizzata per la regina Elisabetta , moglie del re Giorgio VI, la Regina madre: ha la cornice in platino
The crown made for Queen Elizabeth, wife of King George VI, the Queen Mother: it has a platinum frame

Platinum and jewelry. Platinum is used in jewelry for its lasting and elegance. It is soft, pliable and easy to work, but it is also strong and durable. For this, for example, it is very appreciated in jewelry to containing precious stones: the jaws platinum are more secure than those in gold. Also, the color goes well with the purity of diamonds. It’s often used in alloys with other metals, such as iridium, osmium, palladium, rhodium and ruthenium, but in this case should be reported. If you buy a platinum jewel beware that has the symbol ‘Plat’: means that platinum is a purity of 95%.

History. Platinum was already known by the ancient Egyptians: historians have established that a priestess commissioned a craftsman platinum hieroglyphics on her sarcophagus. And today, after 2500, the designs are perfectly intact. Even King Louis XVI (end of 1700) loved the platinum jewelry. And some of the most famous diamonds in the world were placed in a platinum structure, such as the Hope diamond.

Chaumet, tiara in platino e diamanti
Chaumet, tiara in platinum and diamonds

How do you clean platinum? Although platinum is a particularly resistant metal, it is necessary to provide for cleaning from time to time. The best method is always to dip the ring or bracelet in a bowl with hot, but not boiling water, in which you have melted a few drops of neutral liquid soap. After leaving the jewel to soak for ten minutes, rinse, and then gently rub (especially if there are also stones) with a toothbrush with soft bristles. Then, dry with a microfibre cloth: cotton or wool can leave residues attached to the jewel if it is not perfectly smooth. Another method is to soak the platinum jewel in a container of water with the addition of sodium bicarbonate. After a few minutes, pour half a glass of vinegar: for the reaction, water will start producing bubbles. After 10 minutes rinse the jewel in cold water.

Anello solitario in platino e diamante con il Tiffany Setting
Platinum and diamond solitaire ring with the Tiffany Setting
Cartier, solitario in Platino e diamanti
Cartier, solitaire in platinum and diamonds
Luois Vuitton: fede in platino della collezione Empreinte, ispirata ai chiodi dei bauli con solitario incastonato. Prezzo 1890 euro
Louis Vuitton: platinum wedding ring from the Empreinte collection, inspired by trunk nails with a solitaire set
Bracciale di platino con diamanti e rubini venduto per 149mila dollari
Bracelet with diamonds and rubies
Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds circa 1950

How much are black pearls worth?

The precious black pearls: have you heard of them? Read how to recognize them and how much they are worth ♦

To indicate something of value is said to be as precious as a pearl. But if the pearl is black, the value increases. In fact, not all pearls are white: the black ones (also known as Tahitian pearls) are very valuable. Actually they are not really black, but only darker in color, tending to gray. They are the fruits of the oyster Pinctada margaritifera (also called the Tahitian black pearl oyster), a mollusk that lives Indo-Pacific Ocean at the latitude of the Tropics.

Collana con perla di Tahiti e diamanti
Necklace with Tahitian pearl and diamonds

Black pearls are found in many shades, metal color, many shades of gray (who knows, maybe 50 …), but also green peacock (they are considered particularly valuable), or to purple, like eggplant, and brown dark. The color depends on the minerals that the clam has ingested contained in the plankton, the food of oysters. In the cultivation of pearls, however, they are using dye or irradiation to improve or change their color. But do not expect to identify them: it is difficult to pick a natural pearl from a treated. As for gems, pearls also have values ​​(and costs) different.

The name of these pearls is, of course, linked to the place where they are grown, ie mainly around the islands of French Polynesia, near Tahiti.

Yoko London, Aurora necklace
Yoko London, Aurora necklace

The value of pearls in jewelry is determined by a combination of brightness, color, size, lack of surface defects and symmetry. A perfectly round bead is considered more precious, while elongated drop-shaped pearls are often used in pendants. Another aspect to consider is the shine, which is an important element of differentiation of the quality of the pearl.

Anello della collezione Bubble con perle di Tahiti
Assael, ring from the Bubble collection with Tahitian pearls

So, how much are Tahitian black pearls worth? As we said, it really depends on the size and quality. Also, there are pearls out there that are simply colored black. A not too long necklace with a string of real black pearls can have a value ranging from a few hundred euros or dollars, if made up of smaller and lower quality ones, up to a few tens of thousands of euros/dollars if the pearls have a good sheen, are natural and have a regular spherical shape.

If you have jewels with pearls of this color, treat them with care: pearls are delicate and can deteriorate if not treated well. In any case, if you want to know how to clean jewels with pearls, we advise you to read the article we have already published and which explains in detail what you need to do to keep jewels with pearls clean, but without damaging them.

Collana di perle di Tahiti, oro giallo, lapislazzuli
Tahitian pearl necklace, yellow gold, lapis lazuli

How to distinguish a black Tahitian pearl from an imitation, fake? In fact, online there are extraordinary offers of jewelry with low price Tahitian pearls. These are most likely colored freshwater pearls. Unfortunately, from the images on the web it is not easy to distinguish real Tahitian pearls from imitations. Colored pearls, however, usually have a uniform hue, while real pearls tend to have color variations on the surface. Furthermore, often the color used to make the pearls black is concentrated more near the small hole where the thread that binds the pearls passes. Then, look with a loupe if the hole in the pearl looks darker than the rest.

Tahitian pearls are judged based on a strict classification. Here it is:

1 Shape: if is more round on a regular basis, plus the pearl is appreciated.

Perle nere
Black pearls

2 Size: bigger is better.

Necklace with Tahitian pearls
Necklace with Tahitian pearls

3 Surface: it is preferred that very smooth, with no flaws.

Collana con perle di Tahiti e chiusura in oro
Necklace with Tahitian pearls and gold clasp

4 Luster: if he shines the most valuable.

Anello con perla nera di Tahiti e diamanti
Ring with black Tahitian pearl with violet hue and diamonds

5 Nacre: more the pearl is thicker, it will last over time.

Anello in argento con perla tahitiana
Silver ring with Tahitian pearl

6 Color: the most popular colors are peacock green, or shades tending to blue, pink, gold, silver, purple eggplant.

Anello Dawn, in oro nero, diamanti, perle di Tahiti, granati e citrini
Dawn ring, in black gold, diamonds, Tahitian pearls, garnets and citrines

How to combine jewels with face and skin

How to match jewelry, skin color and face shape? Here are some tips ♦

The key to the success of each look is the combination. And this also applies to jewelry: they are not neutral accessories, but must be chosen based on the dress, the occasion, the shape of the face and also the color of the skin. In short, the choice must be considered following some simple principles, for example the shape of the oval and another aspect, which is underestimated by many, the correspondence between stones and metals and the tone of your face. It is not true that yellow gold is always good: in many cases it is white or pink gold that enhances your body more.

Bracciale e collana indossati
Giovanni Raspini, silver bracelet and necklace worn

How to discover your hue: just bring a sheet of white paper (which is really white, not ivory) close to the make-up face and look carefully in the mirror at the nuances that are reflected on the paper. If it is the white of the paper it becomes slightly pink, your face has a cold tinge, while if you see a shadow with a yellow accent, the shade is warmer. Obviously there are many nuances between the two extremes. Be careful, though: you have to do this experiment using natural light (no incandescent, neon or led lamps). Not only that: the natural light, that of the sun or the sky, must not be that of the morning at dawn or in the evening just before sunset, when the sun’s rays color nature with a particularly warm shade.

Prima regola: verificate il vero colore della vostra pelle
First rule: check the true color of your skin

Gold or silver: for leathers with a colder or neutral shade, it is better to choose silver, platinum or white gold. If, on the other hand, the hue is warmer, the yellow and pink gold will stand out more, but also the bronze, the golden brass and the copper. Of course, there are also skin colors that are somewhere in between: in this case what matters is balance. But, be careful: we must not exaggerate: those with very brown, olive skin must not cover themselves with yellow gold like a Christmas tree. In summary: the metal of the jewels should be chosen in harmony with the color of the skin: who has a very light shade can choose white metals, who has a Mediterranean or dark color, will appear better with metals that have more intense shades.

Metallo bianco e pelle chiara
White metal and light skin

Stones and complementary colors: the cool shades of the skin combine well especially with white pearls and diamonds. So no color? Don’t worry, you can also wear pink, blue, red and magenta stones. The warmer tones go well with coral and earth colors, therefore brown, green, peach yellow, orange and all shades of turquoise. Attention, these are general rules: the possible combinations are really many also because there are other aspects to be taken into account such as the combination of skin, eye and hair color. In addition, the shape of the face also counts for earrings and necklaces. Not to mention that a beautiful jewel can always be worn if you like, regardless of these aspects.

Gioielli di corallo rosa di Rajola indossati dalla modella Federica Calemme
Rajola pink coral jewelery worn by model Federica Calemme

Match the jewels to the shape of the face

Heart shape: if your face is round, with a thinner chin, that is, it has a heart shape, it is better to opt for not too large hanging earrings to avoid the effect of enlarging the face. A choker necklace, on the other hand, is the most suitable accessory to soften the tip of the chin.

Collana indossata di Evanueva
Evanueva necklace worn

Round or square face: oval or geometric pendant earrings, such as rectangles, can lengthen the lines of the face and offer a sweeter symmetry. For necklaces, it is preferable to choose long ones, also in this case to streamline the shape of the face, if it develops too wide.

Orecchini con diamanti e smeraldi di Chopard indossati da Julienne Moore
Chopard diamond and emerald earrings worn by Julienne Moore

Rectangular face: the lobe earrings can give an extra touch and soften the lines of the face, without creating an imbalance. Hoop earrings are also fine, especially if they are small. As for necklaces, if the neck is beautiful and long, a choker will be fine.

Orecchini punto luce indossati
Worn stud earrings

Oval face: the choice of earrings is quite intuitive: they must not be too long and it is even better if they have a geometric shape, which contrasts with the regularity of your face. You don’t need to sweeten it, but to add a breaking element. For necklaces you have ample freedom of choice, even if a long neck will be balanced with a choker.

Orecchini della collezione Eyes, indossati di Cora Sheibani
Earrings from the Eyes collection, worn by Cora Sheibani

Come vendere i vostri gioielli

Four tips before knocking at a jeweler’s door or trying to sell a jewel. It is not easy to conclude a good deal ♦

Is It A Good Time To Sell Jewelry? It depends. Wholesale diamond prices, for example, have dropped a lot compared to 2015. By contrast, the value of gold has returned to rise. But when you sell a jewel, the quality of the assembled stones comes into play, along with the design and the brand. A jewel of an established Maison takes the lead in evaluations, and for this reason many jewelers who easily accept necklaces, rings and bracelets that have the brand of famous jewelers. But if the stones used are of high quality, it is also possible for a jeweler to buy the jewel only to remove the precious stones to be fitted with a more modern design. But be careful: selling the grandma’s brilliant ring is not easy. At least: it is not easy to get a unique price. While gold has certain quotes, the diamonds have a number of aspects in the evaluation (How choose a Diamond)  that make it susceptible to different proposals regarding the price. Apart from this consideration, there are four aspects to consider.

Spilla con diamanti e perle
Brooch with diamonds and pearls

1. Think what you really have. Just because Grandma said his old diamond ring was precious (a gift from his beloved grandpa) does not mean that he really is. The sentimental value is one thing, the true is another. So, before running from the first jeweler, better to have a precise picture of its quality and genuineness. If it is a diamond of a certain size and weight, it is worth referring to a qualified expert who can give an impartial opinion of the characteristics and conditions of the stone. And also to highlight the positive attributes that could affect its value. But first get to know the cost of the exam: it must be worth it. Often a pawn shop offers a similar service.

Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds from around 1950

2. Get ready for a realistic price. Dreaming is beautiful, but we have to deal with reality. We said that the market is at a favorable time for the sale, but it depends very much on the type of stone mounted on the jewel. To get an idea, have a look at sales on eBay. Finally, before turning to a seller, think that you will buy only if you are convinced of a good deal, not for a favor.

Bracciale a forma di cigno bianco, con diamanti
White swan-shaped bracelet with diamonds

3. Consider selling options. Those who buy your jewel have two options: sell the piece to another industry or the public. Also consider taking the opportunity to contact a jewelery manufacturer: probably the price you can check will not be the best, but in return, the sale is very fast. But be careful to call on operators who have all legal permissions and a clear curriculum. Investigations on many gold shopping shops are showing that it is easy to come across dealers of dubious honesty. A brief survey on Google can be of help. By the way, there is also a site specializing in private online shopping (www.idonowidont.com). The mechanism offers a guarantee to seller and buyer (of course you pay a commission), but be careful: it is in English and there may be some customs problems.

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo e oro bianco
Ring with emerald cut diamond and white gold

4. Are you emotionally ready to sell? The hardest thing is not to come up with a good price, but be sure you want to sell a jewel that is usually part of your story as well. It tends to add an emotional value to a diamond on the engagement ring, and the disappointment on real market value can be a shock.

Anello in oro giallo con diamanti
Yellow gold ring with diamonds

5. Consider the auctions. If you have a jewel of a certain value, an interesting way is to propose it in an auction. In addition to the giants Sotheby’s and Christie’s, each country has auction houses that periodically organize auction sales. If the jewelry has an interesting shape, a price could be higher than that of a simple sale in jewelry. Federico Graglia

Un'asta condotta da David Bennett (Sotheby's)
An auction conducted by David Bennett (Sotheby’s)

How to choose an engagement ring

How to choose an engagement ring? We have asked several people, men and women.

Once upon a time, engagement rings were only made of yellow gold. It is the most traditional gold, the one that signals the value of the metal. Today, however, a yellow gold engagement ring has a slightly vintage feel, even if it always remains a classic. Someone prefers it this way, precisely because of its taste of a jewel from other times, but with a value that will remain intact for the future as well. In this case, however, it is better to choose a simple design, perhaps with a small diamond set.

Yellow gold. Once the engagement rings were made in yellow gold. It is the more traditional gold, which indicates that the value of the metal. Today, however, an engagement ring in yellow gold has a vintage feel. Some people prefer it so, just for its flavor jewel of other times. In this case , however, better to choose a simple design, perhaps with a small diamond.

Anello indossato della collezione Motion
Ring worn from PdPaola’s Motion collection

White gold. Beware: in reality there is the white gold. It is, you know, gold mixed with some metal without color, such as silver, nickel, manganese and/or (more rarely) palladium. Beware, then by those who proposed a ring in “pure white gold”. It is often coated with rhodium to give it a patina whiter and a brilliant finish. This type of ring after a few years it should be dipped again in a solution in order to maintain its white color and luster and replace the rhodium plating, otherwise it will return to the color of its main ingredient: yellow gold. It’s a hassle, but in reality the process is relatively inexpensive, and many jewelers offer this service for free.

Anello con diamante a taglio marquise
White gold ring with marquise cut diamond

Red and rose gold. The red gold is a alloy with copper. It’s not used traditional for engagement rings, less than complicated processes that combine white gold or yellow. An engagement ring in red gold, which is very fashionable for other types of jewelry, it is considered a bit too bling, inelegant. Of course, the design of the ring counts for a lot in the final judgment.

Anello doppio in oro rosa e diamanti indossato
Piaget, double ring in rose gold and diamonds worn

Platinum. This means that it has a natural white color, although slightly greyish. To be sold as a platinum ring should be composed of at least 90-95 per cent with this metal. Over time the color of the platinum does not tend to yellow, as for the white gold. But loses its glossy finish: some like it because that, by contrast, makes the diamond even more sparkling. Platinum, in any case, can be professionally polished to restore its original splendor, a process that is comparable in terms of cost of care for the white gold. In general, the color of white gold and platinum are similar, but not exactly the same thing: try to put a ring type on the same hand and you will see. White gold is more silvery, while platinum is more gray. The white diamonds beautifully complement them both, but beware: if your engagement ring is platinum, do not add a wedding band in white gold. Remain coordinated with the metal selected the first time is a better idea.

Anello in platino, morganite, diamanti
Platinum, morganite, diamond ring by Tomasz Donocik

The price. The biggest advantage of white gold than platinum is definitely the cost. Platinum is more expensive because it is more rare than gold. Every year there are only extracted 160 tons of platinum against 1,500 tons of gold. In addition, platinum is denser than the yellow metal: the same size ring will weigh significantly more platinum than gold (and precious metals are valued by weight). Broadly speaking, a gem in white gold costs about half an equivalent in platinum. So if you like the white and want to save, choose the gold.

Gioielleria Rocca a Bologna, ingresso
Rocca jewelry store in Bologna, entrance

Which gold to choose. Most of the engagement rings in gold are a 14 or 18 carat , usually marked with the initials 14k or 18k . The letter k means carat. The 14k gold is only 58.3 percent pure. The one on the 18k is 75 percent pure. The greater the amount karat, the purer the gold, but it is also less resistant. The gold in its purest form, in fact, is at 24k, but that state is too soft to use for jewelry complex: it deforms. Must be alloyed with other metals in order to harden and become resistant. To reinforce the gold is usually used in alloys nickel, but sometimes causes allergy. Platinum, however, is a strong metal, stronger and heavier than gold. Among other things, the platinum is more pure and is considered hypoallergenic. You can, however, also find white gold without nickel.

Mariah Carey con l'anello di alta gioielleria in oro bianco e diamanti. Photo: Koto Bolofo
Mariah Carey with the high jewelry ring in white gold and diamonds by Chopard. Photo: Koto Bolofo

Symbols. Gold historically indicates wealth, wisdom, and divine power. Remember the golden rules of the Bible? Or, the golden age or the golden years, which signify good times. And the 50th wedding anniversary is said to be one of the golden wedding. Gold is also considered by many as the traditional metal for wedding rings and engagement rings. Since it does not oxidize over time, helps to symbolize the pair of eternal harmony. Yet now it is platinum that seems to be the new symbol of wealth and prestige. Think of the “platinum credit card” which often has better benefits and privileges that the “credit card of gold.”  The choice is yours.

Anello con diamante a cuore indossato
Worn heart diamond ring

How narrows or widens a ring

You can tighten a ring, or enlarge it: read when and how you can do it ♦

What to do when the favorite ring has become too narrow or too wide? You can ask at the goldsmith to return the gold eliminated in this operation? Because the cost is so different between one ring and another? Here are six questions and six answers.

1 How do you enlarge a ring?

The goldsmith opens the circumference with a saw very thin. Then he picks up (if it has to tighten) or add a piece of metal similar to that of the ring. With pliers, joins the two pieces. At this point welding the ring and then proceeds with different polishing phase with brushes previously immersed in three different abrasive pastes, up to obtain the desired surface.

Anello da allargare
Ring to enlarge

2 It should be every time added another gold to enlarge a ring?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. If the ring has only need to widen up to less than a quarter of its original size and the metal is often, the jeweler may be able to modify your ring working on a mandrel and using the hammer to jeweler. But it is not likely to occur. Usually the ring is expanded with the addition of a small piece of gold or platinum. The ring is then welded again and polished.

Anello da stringere
Ring to tighten

3 How do you resize more little?

To resize a ring, a small section of the circular band is removed. Then the ring is shaped again and then welded. If there are stones on display, they must be tightened again in the griffe. There is a limit: if the stones can not be tightened there is the risk to falling out from the metal support.

Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili
Cazzaniga Nobili goldsmith workshop

4 You may retrieve the gold deleted when you resize a ring?

The amount of gold that is removed in the reduction process is usually so small that it wouldn’t make sense for a refund. Also, sometimes the ring must be polished and the gold is transformed into a fine powder which is sucked. The reduction of a ring requires a lot of skill: the milligrams of gold to the jeweler who remain, are largely discounted by the price of his labor.

Decisamente da stringere
Definitely to tighten

5 Why is it more expensive to widen or tighten some rings than others?

The cost of labor depends very much on the amount of work and by the size of the ring, on the weight and type of metal. To work the platinum is more expensive than gold, because it takes more heat and more attention. It is usually more expensive also work on rings with stones, that need special care. For example, only diamond, sapphire, ruby can withstand the heat of a welding flame. Other gems or should be removed from the ring, or require the use of a laser, because if they are heated, they burn and are hopelessly ruined. The more work and equipment needed for these rings raise the cost of the operation.

Controllate le misure della dita
Check your finger size

6 The size of the finger is different from store to store. Why?

Rings and fingers are measured with spindles. Between one and the other can be a different calibration and, therefore, may be a different measure of the circumference. The variation is usually between 1/4 and 1/2 of the size. In addition, the fingers can also change size depending on weather conditions (shaking with the cold, the heat swell), or due to the condition of health, or weight, and even the time of day.

What are rose cut diamonds?

The rose cut diamonds is back in fashion. But this type of cutting of the most famous stone in the world has pros and cons. Here is what you need to know before buying a jewel with a rose cut diamond. And, above all, learn about this ancient cut of the most precious and beloved stone. The first question is: what are rose-cut diamonds? If you have any doubts, know that this shape does not actually imitate the appearance of the flower.

Anello con cluster di diamanti rose-cut
Ring with rose-cut diamond cluster

How to recognize the rose cut. The rose cut is a type of diamond processing that was used in the past, in particular in the Georgian era, that is the period of the history of England that goes from the reign of George I to that of George IV, between 1714 and 1830 Rose cut diamonds are often confused with round or round cut diamonds, but the difference is notable. Rose-cut diamonds have a rounded top, but a flat base. The top of the stone features different triangular facets than brilliant cut diamonds. Brilliant cut diamonds have become popular since the late 1800s and manage to make the diamond appear much more sparkling thanks to 57-58 facets. Rose-cut diamonds, on the other hand, have a maximum of 24 facets. Brilliant cut diamonds have a pointed bottom that reflects more light. Rose-cut diamonds, on the other hand, can be brighter, albeit less sparkling.

Anello con diamanti per 15 carati
Sutra Jewels, 15 carat diamond ring, rose cut

The advantage. Rose-cut diamonds weigh less than brilliant-cut ones, as they are less thick (they don’t have a pointed underside). For this reason, for the same carats (i.e. the weight of a stone) they will have a larger surface. In short, they are larger for the same weight. A 1-carat brilliant-cut diamond measures 6.5 millimeters when viewed from above, while a rose-cut diamond of the same weight measures approximately 7.5 millimeters. Not only that: rose cut diamonds can have many different shapes: round, oval, pear, kite, hexagon, square, or they can also be cut into random and irregular shapes. In fact, we must not confuse the cut with the shape of the diamond, which refers to the outline of the stone (rectangular, round, pear-shaped). The cut, on the other hand, refers to aspects such as proportion, facets and polishing.

Anello di alta gioielleria con smeraldi per 6 carati, e diamante rose-cut al centro
High jewelry ring with 6 carats of emeralds and a rose-cut diamond in the center

The classification. Rose-cut diamonds follow the usual classification of other diamonds: the color ranges from D (completely colorless) to Z (brown or yellow shade). Since they sparkle less, rose-cut diamonds are also often used in more accentuated colors such as gray, champagne, dull white, black and yellow. Clarity is also classified as for other diamonds.

La differenza tra un taglio rosa e un taglio brillante
The difference between a pink cut and a brilliant cut

Is it worth buying a rose-cut diamond? Often rose-cut diamonds are offered as a rarity, or as a stylistic choice of the jeweler. It is undoubtedly an easier cut to make and, therefore, faster and less expensive. In India, the rose cut is part of tradition and is still widely used. There are other brands, such as 64Facets of New York that mainly use rose-cut diamonds. Before buying a jewel with rose cut diamonds, however, it is good to evaluate the aesthetic result. The best thing is to compare a jewel with rose cut diamonds to one with more modern cut stones, to see the difference with your own eyes.

Anello con diamante taglio brillante al centro e taglio rosa ai lati by 64Facets
Ring with brilliant cut diamond in the center and rose cut on the sides by 64Facets

Adjustable necklaces

Adjustable necklaces, necklaces with a knot, necklaces with the string: this is why to choose this type of jewel ♦

Almost always long and thin, sometimes very precious, necklaces of this type are back in fashion. But, in reality, has it ever been forgotten? In any case, it is good news for those who love sexy jewelry, as its shape highlights the contour of the body with a drape delicately resting on the décolleté. Adjustable necklaces have an obvious advantage: they adapt to the surface and size of the wearer’s body. Not only. An adjustable necklace also changes shape and can be worn in different ways depending on the clothing and circumstance.

Also read: how to choose the necklace

Collana Aria indossata
Nanis, Aria adjustable necklace worn

Of course, it depends on how it is worn because originally they were nothing more than a long thread of gold or pearls, more or less thick and broad, without any closure, to be turned several times around the neck, or to be knotted simply or with an adjustable clip to be placed at a strategic point. Like the vintage Cartier jewel, dated 1965, made with flat round links and a drop-shaped clasp, or the long double string of Chanel eighties beads.

Collana con pendente cone inserto in pelle
Necklace with pendant with leather insert by 12PM

You need to be careful when choosing the adjustable necklace. At the time of purchase it is best to check whether the mechanism that allows you to vary the length of the necklace is really efficient and, above all, does not appear to be too delicate: it would be disappointing to have to take the necklace to the jeweler to have the locking system repaired.
Collana indossata Magnetica System
Extendable Magnetica System necklace worn by Breil

Another important aspect is to use the adjustable necklace appropriately. A jewel of this type is interesting precisely because it adapts to the body and dress, but before choosing the length of the necklace, do several tests in front of the mirror, to establish what the right size really is: after all, you have chosen a jewel of this type precisely because of this.

Collana in diamanti e smeraldi, indossata a Baselworld
Jacob & Co diamond and emerald necklace, worn

The models of the past perfectly coexist next to the new millennium versions with revisited iconic logos and motifs, while one of the most luxurious places belongs to Bulgari with its famous snake in diamonds, turquoise emeralds, presented at the 2012 Biennale of Antiquarians. , shows how this type of necklace has never completely disappeared, but certainly now, especially overseas, it is a must have. Here is a selection of the most interesting pieces.

Collana in oro bianco e giallo con diamanti e smeraldi
Antonini, white and yellow gold necklace with diamonds and emeralds
Collana della collezione Zyp
Tirisi, necklace from the Zyp collection
Cartier, collier a forma di coccodrillo in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi
Cartier, crocodile-shaped necklace in white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Collana Marble Marquetry con diamanti e zaffiri
Harry Winston, Marble Marquetry necklace with diamonds and sapphires
Salvini, collana regolabile della collezione Daphne
Salvini, adjustable necklace from the Daphne collection
Autore, Best in Pearls con una collana di perle dei Mari del Sud
Autore,Best in Pearls with a necklace of South Sea pearls
Pendente con smeraldo colombiano del peso di circa 16 ct montato su collana in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti taglio brillante del peso totale di circa 6,10 carati. Lunghezza collana 44 cm (chiusura regolabile)
Pendant with Colombian emerald weighing approximately 16 ct mounted on an 18k white gold necklace with brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 6.10 carats in total. Necklace length 44 cm (adjustable closure)

Chains and gourmettes

Can you distinguish between different types of chains? Not all jewelry chains are created equal. Here’s how to choose a chain.

The most used chain for bracelets is the gourmette. But do you know what a gourmette is? Here’s what you need to know about one of the most used jewelry chains.

There is chain and chain: in love it is a feared and desired bond, in jewelry one of the most used forms for bracelets and necklaces. But beware: they are not all the same. One of the most used forms is the gourmette: for example, Pomellato, Roberto Coin and many others brands dedicated collections to this type of chain, but all jewelers have chains of this type in their catalog. The curb chain has an ancient origin. The most ancient example ever discovered of gourmette dates back to 2500 BC and was made with a technique called fox tail, which is still very current.

Gourmette e1565356458849
Gourmette or grumetta braided oval links often diamond-cut so as to lay them flat along the surface

But what is the characteristic of a gourmette? Compared to a normal chain, changes a little the shape. For gourmette, in fact, we mean a jewelery chain that has flattened rings with smooth sides. In some cases the surfaces can also be different: for example, on one side of the chain the metal can be shiny and smooth, on the other side more rough and opaque. But there is no precise rule.

Bracciale e anello in oro bianco e diamanti
Roberto Coin, bracelet and ring in white gold and diamonds

Often the chains have a small tag engraved with a name, usually that of the person wearing the jewel. In other cases, instead, a date is engraved, for example, that of birth. But the tag is not necessary for a wide chain bracelet or necklace. The gourmettes are often in silver or white gold. The most conspicuous yellow gold is less used (but much appreciated by rappers, for example). The curb chain is mainly used to make bracelets. But for some time there have been those who have decided that it can be worn very well as a necklace: this was also chosen in this case by many artists of the musical world.

Madonna con grande catena al collo
Madonna with large chain around her neck

How to choose a chain

Chains are not all the same. And not just because of their size or the style with which the different rings are made. Before buying a chain, pay attention to the quality of the jewel. The shirt must be soft, pleasant to wear. It must be as flexible as possible, without joints that get stuck if they need to be bent. Above all, a chain must not have protruding points that can attach to your dress (or perhaps to that of others). Some chains are designed to be combined with pendants: an idea that must also be comfortable once the bracelet or necklace is worn.

Gioielli a forma di catena della linea Fraleoni Rainbow
Chain-shaped jewelery from the Fraleoni Rainbow line

How to clean a chain?

Simple: like all the other jewels, that is with water, a couple of drops of liquid soap and a soft bristle toothbrush. Leave to soak in a bowl for about ten minutes and then rub with the toothbrush, then rinse. Be careful, however, that the chain is not plated or gilded with a galvanic bath. In this case there is a risk of damaging the surface: better to rinse the jewel without the risk of scratching it.

Gourmette di Cartier in or giallo
Gourmette by Cartier in yellow gold
Kim Kardashian con maxi catena
Kim Kardashian with maxi gourmette chain
Gourmette di Pomellato
Gourmette by Pomellato
Lily Collins contagiata dalla maxi catena mania
Lily Collins with the maxi chain mania

How to lengthen a necklace

If the necklace is too short for you the only solution is to lengthen it. Yes, but how to lengthen a necklace? The simplest answer is: add other elements, for example pearls if it is a necklace of this type. But who ever has unused pearls at home? In short, lengthening a necklace is not a simple problem. There are, however, some not too complicated solutions that you can adopt to lengthen your necklace. You can try some yourself if you feel confident enough, or you can suggest them to your jeweler, who will do them for you. Here are some.

Collana di PdPaola
Necklace worn by PdPaola

1 Tie knots
If the necklace is too short and is made of pearls, a solution could be to knot the thread that runs along the necklace between one sphere and another. The knot, which must be small, will space the pearls a little apart. In this way the necklace lengthens, even if only slightly. Sometimes it is just what is enough to make the jewel more pleasant and, above all, suitable for your body size. Furthermore, a knot between one pearl and another also has an additional advantage: it makes the necklace more secure. If it breaks, the pearls will not be lost.

Collana e orecchini con cascata di perle indossati
Necklace and earrings with cascade of pearls worn

2 Add pearls
This tip is perfect for a pearl necklace, but it’s also good for other types of necklaces. It involves adding small cultured pearls, which have a very affordable cost, between one pearl and another. But pearls can also be added inside a chain by alternating gold and small white spheres.

Collana Jardin de Peggy in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Jardin de Peggy necklace in 14k gold and freshwater pearls by Sophie Bille Brahe

3 Golden Spheres
A solution similar to the one just described is the addition of gold spheres, which can lengthen practically any type of necklace. However, choose gold of the same color as the one already present, be it white, yellow or pink. You can opt for small grains not too different from a grain of rice, or light spheres (which are usually empty inside) of larger diameter: it depends on the type of necklace. The same remedy is obviously suitable for silver necklaces, but in this case you can choose elements of the same metal.

Collana con pietre colorate e croce
Necklace with colored stones and cross by Elena Braccini

4 A chain
If the necklace to be lengthened is made of precious or, more easily, semi-precious stones (for example, turquoise, lapis lazuli, tourmaline), you can add a small gold chain in the section of the jewel that is located on the back surface of the neck. In this way the necklace is significantly lengthened without losing the original aesthetic appearance.

Collana multicolor
Multicolor necklace by Coeur de Lion

5 More gems
If you have the financial means and the necklace is made up of stones, you can choose to add the same type of gems, although in many cases it will not be so easy to find the same shade of color. Or you can choose to alternate the existing gems with others of a different colour, playing on strong color combinations, such as green and red, or on nuances of the same shade, as in the case of yellow and orange, or blue and blue gems. Or, again, with enamel elements. A jeweler will easily be able to satisfy you: but ask for a quote first so as not to have any surprises on the final cost.

Collana con ametista
Necklace with amethysts of different sizes by Andrea Fohrman

All about garnet

Garnet is one of the most used stones in jewelry. But can you distinguish it? Here’s what you need to know about the garnet, stone of the month of January, which actually brings together many different types ♦

It’s easy to say garnet. Actually this stone is classified in different ways and confused with other with the same color. It’s an old habit: in the past the only criteria to describe a stone was, in a generic way, the color. So all the red gems were recognized as rubies, from the Latin meaning of rubeus: red, in fact. No wonder, then, that for 700 years the central stone of the crown of England, 170 carats, has been called “the Black Prince’s Ruby,” despite being a magnificent spinel, which is not a garnet stone but it’s looks like. Even some varieties of garnet in the past have been mistakenly categorized as rubies. The matter is further complicated, however, because not only it has many colors such as purple, brown, orange, yellow and green, but it is often sold under the trade name and not the scientific one. So, nature abounds colored gemstones and yet it was not always easy to catalog them. How to distinguish and choose them? Here you have a little guide.

Pendente in oro giallo, con granati mandarino, diamanti e smalto
Yellow gold pendant, with mandarin garnets, diamonds and enamel

Rhodolite

It is a variety of garnet. From the geological point of view, the stone is made 55% of pyrope and 37% of the almandine. The garnet differs from ruby not only for its composition, but also how it behaves under the light: from a natural ruby emerge a double rainbow with various shades of red and blue, while the rhodolite is even more brilliant and alive, and will show only a rainbow with green and yellow. Caution: rhodolite can be synthesized in the laboratory, but it is one of the few stones to never be treated artificially. Its name derives from the greek rhodo (pink) and lithos (stone) and was coined by George Frederick Kunz for its resemblance to the flower color of the rhododendron mountain.

Color: compared to the other red garnets is slightly lighter and that’s why is confused with ruby, but has some hues of purple and purpura. No coincidence that the most popular colors are red-purple and raspberry discovery in 1987, the hue of the fruit.

Sources : was discovered in North Carolina, but the major deposits are in Sri Lanka, Tanzania, where in the Kangala region was identified the Raspberry variety and in the one pale purple in Umba valley, Zimbabwe and Brazil. From the Orissa Indian region and only from there comes the grape garnet with the same colour of a good amethyst.

Anello con rodolite e zaffiri blu
Ring with rhodolite and blue sapphires

Almandine garnet

The presence of metals such as manganese and calcium gives the garnet many colors, but when the component is predominant almandine, appearance is dark red, sometimes brownish. And this is the best known variety, with the name of the Mozambique garnet, named by the East African country of origin. Cited in Greek mythology, praised in the Jewish and Muslim tradition and used by the Vikings for the funeral ornaments, is rather hard and with a high refractive index. Sometimes is called Oriental Garnet.

Sources: Mozambique, India and Brazil.

Naomi Sarna, anello con granato almandino intagliato
Naomi Sarna, carved almandine garnet ring

Spessartite

The name comes from Spessart, Bavarian village where it was discovered the mid-nineteenth century. Initially little used in jewelry because it is very rare, after the discovery of another field in Namibia, its spread has grown tremendously, because it is the variety of garnet that has the highest refractive index after diamond. Feature that makes it one of the most versatile gems.

Colour: from manganese derives its characteristic orange primary color while the presence of iron gives the red shades and turns it to orange red, golden orange, orange yellow or dark red. The Mandarin Garnet is the most valuable variety of Spessartine, discovered in Kunene, Namibia.

Vhernier, spessartite al centro del collier Orange Velvet
Vhernier, Spessartite in the center of the Orange Velvet necklace

Sources: if the Spessart mine is now exhausted, Namibia continues to be the reference point along with Nigeria, while other deposits are in Australia, Brazil, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Tanzania and Zambia.

Tsavorite

It is the trade name of Garnet Grossularia Green, coined in 1974 by British geologist Campbell R. Bridges and Henry B. Platt, two consultants of Tiffany, in honor of the Tsavo National Park in Kenya, the place of discovery.

Selim Mouzannar, orecchini con tsavoriti, avorio, smalto, diamanti
Selim Mouzannar, earrings with tsavorite garnets, ivory, enamel, diamonds

Colour: owes its color to the presence of vanadium and chromium in small part, the same elements that give the emerald its colors. If a larger amount of vanadium accentuates the green Tsavorite, a yellowish tinge instead indicates the presence of iron. The green runs from vivid and clear to deep and velvety and, like all garnets, has a beautiful sheen, thanks to the high refractive index. Compared to emerald but has fewer inclusions and can also be flawless to the naked eye.

Sources: more rare emerald it has two major mining sites, the Scorpion mine near the Tsavo National Park in Kenya and the Merelani hills in Arusha region in Tanziana. And a small field in the province of Tulear in Madagascar.

Demantoid Garnet

A variety of Andradite Garnet, discovered in the Urals in 1849, has an exceptional brightness and its name was borrowed from German Demant because as diamond-like sparkle. Passion jeweler Carl Faberge, who just could it inserted in its creation and contributed to his legendary reputation, was coveted by many even by the head of Tiffany gemologist, George Frederick Kunz, who went to Russia with the aim to buy all specimens on the market. The Soviet revolution it blocked the mire and marketing, but many years later, in 1991, thanks to the filming of the activities mineriarie in the Urals and the discovery of other deposits in Namibia, came to the fore.

Una varietà verde della andradite, minerale che è uno delle più preziose varietà del granato Demantoide
A green variety of andradite, a mineral which is one of the most precious types of Demantoid garnet

Colour: depending on the amount of chromium and iron, varies from deep green to yellowish green to yellow or olive green. In practice, the greater the presence of iron is more yellow the stone. And although green forest is the reference tone, in the case of the Demantoid what really counts is the fire, that the variety and intensity of the play of colors when it reflects the light.

Sources: the Urals come specimens of intense green color with a peculiarity, the inclusions ponytail, that make them special, while the stones of Namibia are clearer and without inclusions.

Valuation: garnet is a type II gem, which may contain a few minor inclusions visible to the naked eye, which are tolerable if they compromise the beauty of the stone. However, there are examples impeccable in darker shades, whatever the color and smaller.

Anello con granato mandarino e zaffiri rosa
Ring with mandarin garnet and pink sapphires
Bracciale in oro bianco, diamanti e granato
Bracelet in white gold, diamonds and garnet
Pendente Demeter con granato mandarino e diamanti
Demeter pendant with mandarin garnet and diamonds
Anello in oro giallo con granato mandarino e smalto nero
Yellow gold ring with mandarin garnet and black enamel
Anello con tsavorite al centro, opale di fuoco, ametista, apatite, zaffiro
Ring with tsavorite in the center, fire opal, amethyst, apatite, sapphire
Anello con spessartite abochon di 32 carati, diamanti, zaffiri rosa, topazio imperiale, acquamarina, labradorite, andalusite
Ring with 32-carat cabochon famartite, diamonds, pink sapphires, imperial topaz, aquamarine, labradorite, andalusite

How to distinguish between real and synthetic diamond?

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Attention: the number of synthetic diamonds is increasing, which are now even produced by De Beers. Do you know how to recognize laboratory-created diamonds? The first thing to know is…  ♦

How do you know if the diamond in your ring is synthetic? Is it possible to find out if a diamond is real or fake? The answer is: it depends. The difference is not visible to the naked eye, but only with sophisticated instruments. Naturally, a diamond is considered fake only if its origin is not declared. Synthetic diamonds, if they are officially declared as such, cannot be considered fake. Lastly, diamond giant De Beers has also entered the scene, producing synthetic diamonds with a laboratory in Great Britain for jewelery under the Lightbox brand.

Orecchini lab-grown di Lightbox
Lab-grown earrings by Lightbox

The misunderstanding between real and synthetic, however, is a problem for traders: in fact, in case of doubt, for large stones traders turn to gemological institutes. But if the certifications are dubious, large jewelers do not use smaller stones, under 1 carat, to avoid the risk of compromising their reputation. Alberto Osimo, diamond wholesaler and president of the Geci (Gemological Education Certification Institute) of one of the main gem laboratories in Italy, stated this some time ago: «Currently there is only one machine, the Diamond view, produced by Dtc, the Diamond trading company, able to carry out this analysis, which however takes ten minutes and is uneconomical in the case of diamonds of one hundredth of a carat. In fact, it is not convenient to certify and check a stone worth just a few euros when the procedure could cost up to 80 euros per piece.” However, other systems subsequently proposed to analyze diamonds also require long and expensive procedures.
By Ethereal Green Diamond, 34,59 ct. Photo: Johnny (Chak Wan) Leung
By Ethereal Green Diamond, 34,59 ct. Lab-grown diamond. Photo: Johnny (Chak Wan) Leung

A partial solution to the problem comes from another machine created by the Swiss institute Ssef and capable of analyzing even 4 thousand stones in a single hour. So everything is fine? In part: the device only identifies the molecular structure of the object, i.e. it divides them according to type. And, fortunately, only one of these categories is artificially replicable. In short: a synthetic diamond can only be identified with expensive machines and complicated procedures.
Expertise in un laboratorio Tiffany
Expertise in a Tiffany laboratory

But it’s not just synthetic diamonds. Alongside the natural diamond, there are laboratory-created stones on the market, such as cubic zirconia and synthetic moissanite. Which are certified and sold as extremely cheaper alternatives to diamonds which are the result of the thousand-year-old work of the earth.

So, how do you know if your diamond is real or fake?

1 A real diamond is certified. Therefore, a diamond jewel must also have the certificate attesting its purity, color and carats.

2 You can purchase a device to test yourself. A device such as the Professional Diamond Selector I. It is a probe or thermal conductivity meter and can be found on sale on Amazon for a few dollars, serves to distinguish real diamonds from other simulated stones. For example, it finds out whether the stone is, in fact, a crystal or a cubic zirconia. However, he will not be able to find out if the diamond was created in a laboratory.

3 Other tests that you can do at home: drop the diamond into a glass full of water (but this presupposes that it is separated from the jewel). If the gemstone sinks it is a real diamond. If it floats on the surface of the water or just below it, it is false.

4 Breath test: fog the diamond with your breath, as if cleaning the lenses of your glasses. If the water vapor dissolves immediately from the surface, the diamond is more likely to be authentic. Needless to say, it’s a very crude method…

5 Take a magnifying glass. If you see the tiny abbreviation CZ on the stone it means that it is cubic zirconia.

6 A test for strong hearts: heat your diamond on a flame for 40 seconds. Then throw it in a glass of cold water: if it’s real it won’t break. But if it’s a crystal…  We don’t recommend it, if you want to try it’s your risk.

Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio
Control of CVD plasma reactor producing diamonds in De Beers laboratory

The jewels suitable for New Year’s Eve

What to wear for the evening of the last day of the year? Here are jewelry ideas that you will find in some cases at the last minute.

You’ve found the shoes and the dress, to decide what to wear on New Year’s Eve, all that’s missing is the jewelry. But be careful, if you like celebrating the last day of the year so much, you should know that the date is not the same everywhere in the world. If in most Western countries and Japan the last day of the year is December 31, in other parts of the world this date falls on completely different days. Some examples: for certain Orthodox Churches and Eastern Catholic Churches, the beginning of the year (for religious ceremonies) is celebrated on the day corresponding to Gregorian January 14.

Collana di perle by Coscia
Pearl necklace by Coscia

Chinese New Year is celebrated in correspondence with the new moon which falls between January 21 and February 20 (in 2023, for example, it is Sunday January 22). The Islamic New Year, on the contrary, corresponds, compared to the Gregorian calendar, to approximately one month late every three years. So if you want, you can celebrate them all…

Pandora, gioielli della collezione Moments indossati
Pandora, jewels from the Moments collection worn

In short, the most important night of the year, how to choose jewelry? A flashy and colorful necklace will help reinvent a little black dress or a dress already worn before. Or lace, stars, moons on gold and silver, embellished with diamonds or zircons make any look sparkling. If, on the other hand, it is the dress that is flashy, button earrings, a sterling silver bracelet or long thin gold necklaces will give the perfect finishing touch. In short, the important thing is that they shine to celebrate until the early hours of the New Year, but also that they are in balance with the dress.

Madalina Ghenea con una collier della colelzione Vulcania, alta gioielleria Damiani
Madalina Ghenea with a necklace from the Vulcania collection, Damiani high jewelry

There are certainly three guide colors for the night of December 31: black, white and red. For a party that starts strictly after 9 p.m., a black dress is perfect. And with a dark color the ideal is to prefer the classic: the red of rubies, or of a stone of the same shade (there are also cheap ones) and the sparkling white of diamonds or, if in the drawer you Don’t have any such as precious jewelry, white silver or synthetic stones, like cubic zirconia. They just need to shine to the toast.

Collezione Amuleti by Nanis
Amulets Collection by Nanis
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti di Leo Pizzo
Ring in white gold and diamonds by Leo Pizzo
Anello e bracciale di Giselle Effting
Ring and bracelet by Giselle Effting

Jewels and amulets

The jewels in the shape of an amulet or talisman. But you can wear them even if you are not superstitious ♦

Did our primitive ancestors first make jewelry as an ornament, or as talismans and amulets? The answer will never be known. Certainly, however, the superstitious function of jewels is evidenced by archaeological findings. But this capacity is also reaffirmed, a few thousand years later, by those who think they will be lucky if they wear a necklace pendant that has an eye-shaped shape.

Pendente-talismano di de Beers, in oro bianco e diamanti
Talisman-pendant by de Beers, in white gold and diamonds

Because, in fact, magical jewels, which should avoid unfortunate events or, on the contrary, favor a good fortune, are still bought. Talisman jewels often have the shape of symbols, to which is attributed a value and a magical power of help and propitiation or protection. At the same time, the particular shape of a pendant should (for those who are convinced of it) propitiate lucky events, such as winning the lottery or winning love.

Collana talismano
Talisman necklace by Kristen Malan

The difference. By the way, it is better to clarify the difference: usually talismans are equated with amulets. In reality they are objects created with two different functions. The amulets have (for those who believe in it) the ability to remove or cancel a magical evil influence. Talismans, instead, are objects that have the ability to make something positive happen. In short, an amulet should prevent negativity, while a talisman propitiate a positivity.

talismano in cristallo di rocca e smalto Wartski 1
Wartski, carved rock crystal and enamel hand-shaped talisman

Talismans and amulets are objects that even today’s jewelers like, often offering jewels that have the function of an amulet or talisman as well as an ornament to wear. In fact, nothing prevents you from wearing a necklace or ring with superstitious symbols even if you don’t believe in those ancient superstitions. Here are some.

Amuleto indossato
Worn amulet

Eye of Allah. In Turkish it is called Nazar Bonjuk, while in English it is Evil Eye. It is one of the most famous amulets against the evil eye. It is widely used for bracelets, earrings and necklaces. Once upon a time, children were attached to their clothes with a safety pin. It is one of the most used symbols by jewelers.

Occhio anti malocchio, con smalto e diamanti. Prezzo: 6800 dollari
Aaron Basha, hex eye, with enamel and diamonds

Hand of Fatima or Miriam. Also called Hamsa (which means five in the Arabic language) or Khamsa, it is an amulet shaped like a palm of a hand popular throughout the Middle East and North Africa, but now widespread also in the West, often used also to make jewelry or hang at home as good luck. For the Jews it is the hand of Miriam.

Anello con ciondolo mano di Fatima
Swarovski, ring with hand of Fatima pendant

Horn. It is a widespread amulet in Italy, especially in the South, as a lucky charm. Made in coral, often with the addition of diamonds, it was also used as a model by the great Maison of jewelry.

Amuleto a forma di corno in corallo e pietre semi preziose
Horn-shaped amulet in coral and semi-precious stones

Skull. According to the different cultures, the symbol of the skull serves to inspire fear, remove the danger of death or protect it from danger.

Anello della collezione Flora con teschio, oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri
Gucci, ring from the Flora collection with skull, white gold, diamonds and sapphires

Crucifix. For those who follow the Christian religion it is the most important spiritual symbol. But even if some wear it to witness their belonging to the cult, others consider it an object capable of giving protection to the person. In short, a symbol with magical powers.

Croce scomponibile Belle Epoque
Damiani, Belle Epoque decomposable cross

Zodiac signs. Libra, Leo, Sagittarius … Whoever wears the symbols of his zodiac sign not only wants to communicate his belonging to a certain period of the year, but he also expects a beneficial power.

David Yurman, pinky ring in oro con iniziali o segno zodiacale
David Yurman, gold pinky ring with initials or zodiac sign
Amuleto con giada nera, bronzo e laccio in pelle
Black Jade, Bronze, and Leather Cord Amulet by Lisa Eisner
Ciondolo amuleto con cristallo di rocca intagliato e diamanti
Temple St. Clair amulet pendant with carved rock crystal and diamonds
Bracciale in oro rosa con smeraldi e quarzo al centro
Rose gold bracelet with emeralds and quartz in the centre
Bracciale in cuoio con mano di Fatima in oro e zaffiri
Pippo Perez, leather bracelet with hand of Fatima in gold and pink sapphires
Thomas Sabo, mano di Fatima in oro rosa 18 carati e zircone
Thomas Sabo, hand of Fatima in 18k rose gold and cubic zirconia

Rivière jewelery guide

Rivière and Triple X: Two terms that are sometimes used in jewelery. You want to know what Rivière and Triple X mean? Read here ♦

Some time ago, in New York, in a Bonhams auction, a 51 diamond rivière necklace, rated triple X-cut, was sold for $ 1.2 million. It was been the jewel that has reached the highest price. Each diamond of the necklace was accompanied by a certificate from the Gemological Institute of America. The diamonds in question weigh over 70 carats: in the necklace are joined by a 2.04-carat heart-shaped clip. The stones are mounted in platinum. But do you know what the rivière and triple X definitions mean?

Collana rivière di diamanti di metà XIX secolo
Mid-19th century diamond rivière necklace

Rivière. The term rivière derives from the French word that means river. In jewelry, it indicates a row of stones that are the same size or scale, that is, from larger to gradually smaller. It is also a way to make the most of the stones of different sizes and order them in a geometric pattern. It is a set often used for diamond necklaces, more rarely with other stones. Very fashionable in England during the Georgian period, rivière style necklaces are still popular today.

Collana rivière in stile art déco in oro bianco, tormalina, malachite, onice e diamanti
Boucheron, art deco rivière necklace in white gold, tourmaline, malachite, onyx and diamonds

Rivière necklaces are usually designed without ornaments, to enhance the stones used. But in some cases these necklaces hide a small ring that allow you to add a pendant. There is also a practical reason when it comes to necklaces with stones of different sizes: enhancing the larger ones, placing them on the front of the necklace, makes the jewel more slender. The perspective effect of the stones that become smaller when they approach the nape of the neck also makes the necklace more slender. Finally, it is difficult for a jeweler to have so many stones of the same size and quality. This solves the problem.

Nicole Kidman con una collana rivière in un'immagine di qualche anno fa
Nicole Kidman with a rivière necklace in an image from a few years ago

Triple X. Also known as Triple Ex, it is an informal denomination, mostly in the commerce sector, which means a diamond that has excellent chiselling, symmetry and cutting. The definition is only intended for brilliant cutting diamonds.

Nicole Kidman con una collana rivière in un'immagine di qualche anno fa
Nicole Kidman con una collana rivière in un’immagine di qualche anno fa

Tripla X. Conosciuta anche come «Triple Ex», è una denominazione informale, per lo più nel settore del commercio, che significa un diamante che ha ottima cesellatura, simmetria e taglio. La definizione è destinata solo ai diamanti taglio brillante.

La collana rivière appartenuta a Zsa Zsa Gabor. Stima: 1,2-1,5 milioni di dollari
The rivière necklace that belonged to Zsa Zsa Gabor
Bonhams Riviere necklace
The rivière necklace sold at Bonham’s for $1.2 million
Collana rivière a tre fili
hree-strand rivière necklace
collana cartier
Rivière necklace by Cartier. Sold for $2.8 million

Holydays in red with coral

What jewels to wear for holidays? Red is the color of winter holidays and is also the color of coral, which can give an extra touch of liveliness ♦

Winter holidays are colored red, like coral. For this reason, jewels with this material can be an excellent choice to wear for the winter holidays, together with gold and the green color. In fact, shades of red generally go well with an elegant dress and are in line with the Christmas atmosphere. Another advantage is that red coral jewelry is quite easy to find. But be careful: choose those that can prove to be sustainable from an environmental point of view. Many jewelers, who have understood that they cannot risk compromising coral colonies already put to the test by rising temperatures, can show certificates proving the sustainable origin of the coral used for the jewellery.

Anello in oro con corallo rosso e diamanti
Ciaravolo, gold ring with red coral and diamonds

Furthermore, if you have jewels like the ones we publish on this page, be careful not to ruin them. Coral is a natural material, beautiful but also delicate. Coral jewelery must be treated with great care. Coral, like pearls, is a product of animal origin (it is composed of micro organisms) and is not a gemstone or mineral. The tiny corals live in the sea and over the years form calcareous skeletons. This is why you need to be careful. Here you will find the right suggestions to best preserve coral.

Anello con corallo rosso e tsavoriti
Alex Ball, ring with red coral and tsavorites

How to clean coral. It should be cleaned with a soft damp cloth and rinsed with warm soapy water, then dried carefully. But it should not be placed in an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner, nor subjected to a bath in water. If the jewel is dusty, you can also remove the dust using a can of compressed air, of the kind used to clean the inside of computers.
Sautoir di corallo rosso e diamanti
Chantecler, red coral and diamond sautoir

Anello della collezione Riviera in oro bianco, diamanti, corallo
Avakian, ring from the Riviera collection in white gold, diamonds, coral
Orecchini in corallo rosso Cavolfiore
Cassandra Goad, red coral and gold Cauliflower earrings
Bracciale con corallo intrecciato
Eredi Jovon, bracelet with woven coral
Bracciale in argento 925 con sfere in pietra naturale e corallo mediterraneo. Prezzo: 63,35 euro
Salvatore Collaro, 925 silver bracelet with natural stone and Mediterranean coral spheres

4 things to know before giving away a jewel

Four tips from an expert for those who want to give a jewel. Read and above all, do not forget them ♦

How to choose a jewel as a gift? A question that creates some concern. Help arrives from Angelina Chen, head of online sales of Christie’s Jewellery, which published some considerations and four tips. Better to read them and follow them. Better to read and follow them. and if you want to know even more, you can read What to give a woman? and, in particular, how to decide which ring to give. Because jewels cost money and often also become an investment: before purchasing them, therefore, you need to choose them carefully. So, if you intend to give a jewel as a gift, read these tips first.
Un pacchetto regalo

1 Find the color. According to Angelina Chen, a good idea is to observe which are the favorite colors of the clothes of the person who will receive the gift, the clothes she wears most often. A suggestion, therefore, is to look for a jewel that has that color as its hue. For example, for those who love blue you can choose sapphires, but also simple turquoise, those who love green can opt for emeralds, tsavorites or tourmalines of that shade. When in doubt, there is always the color that is always in fashion: that of white diamonds, that is, colorless.

Granato spessartite by Nomad's
Spessartite garnet by Nomad’s

2 Choose the style. There are those who love modern style and jewelry with a contemporary design and those who prefer traditional shapes: the classic solitaire ring, the necklace with a string of pearls, a simple gold bracelet. So, before choosing, take a good look at the aesthetic inclinations of those who will receive your gift: are you a conservative and traditionalist woman in terms of clothes, or do you change often to stay on the wave of fashion? In any case, the precious jewels, created by a great brand, survive historical eras and fashions and therefore are a little safer. With a less expensive jewel, however, you cannot go wrong: it must be consistent with the style of the jewelry and clothes worn.

Serafino Consoli, bracciali e anelli
Serafino Consoli, bracciali e anelli

3 Beware of collections. There are women who love a kind of jewel and want to wear it always, with small variations. For example, a white gold ring with a diamond, or a simple earring made of the same materials. But also different pieces of the same collection: for example, you can give a ring and, if the jewel has been really appreciated (you have to be sure), you can continue with a bracelet or a necklace from the same collection. If a woman has a certain number of similar jewels in her drawer, she is likely not to disdain to receive another one, obviously with some variations on the theme.

Collana di Hermès indossata
Collana di Hermès indossata

4 Look for the missing pieces. A brilliant idea (in the true sense of the word) is to integrate a series of jewels with the missing piece. For example, someone with a lot of white gold jewelry might want a rose gold piece to add to their collection. Those who have a lot of earrings probably want to increase the number of rings, and so on. The same goes for jewels of the same series of the same brand.

Collana in diamanti e smeraldi, indossata a Baselworld
Collana in diamanti e smeraldi di Jacob & Co, indossata







How to behave in a jewelry store

Do you want to buy a jewel? Know that jewelers judge your behavior and may be more or less available. Here’s what not to do when you enter a jewelery store ♦

What a jeweler thinks of you when you go into his store? You must know it: it’s important. Often between customer and jeweler there is a relationship that lasts for years: the engagement ring, the watch as a gift, the necklace for wedding anniversary… But, as with all businesses, even a good relationship may fall apart. A jewelry salesman does his job, and you have to do yours. So, you must remind what the jeweler wants from you. These six points summarize what is expected from you.

La boutique Repossi, a Parigi
The Repossi boutique, in Paris

1 Even if the jeweler has a friendly relationship with you, do not forget it’s anyway a commercial activity. At the end of the day the jeweler look at what he earned. So, do not take the jeweler for a consultant or expert to consult casually. Many, for example, get into a store to ask for a value on a jewel that, maybe, they want to sell. It is not an attitude pleasing to the jeweler, unless he sold you that piece. Bring into the store a ring or a necklace purchased elsewhere may be fine once, if you are regular customers, but no more. Probably your jeweler has a same item you are asking to evaluate: showing a competitor’s product may irritate him.

Non sottovalutate l'esperienza
Don’t underestimate the experience

2 The jeweler seeks to identify customer’s financial resources and on this basis propose rings, necklaces or earrings that can satisfy the needs. If he is a good professional, he’ll be able to offer a good price too. In return, however, he expects loyalty from the customer. It may be benefit for both parties.

L'interno di Harry Winston, a New York
The interior of Harry Winston, New York

3 Certainly, those who buy a jewel is not a jeweler or a gemologist. But jewelers are bothered by the complete ignorance on the subject. They will be ready to explain the characteristics of an object that you like and why its price. In return they expect the customer to understand why a piece of jewelry is more expensive than another, or more simple differences between different diamonds (of course, reading here helps you ). Then, if the client has some knowledge of basic the jeweler is more positive and, perhaps, more flexible about the price.

Tiffany, a New York
Tiffany, New York

4 Regarding the price: when you look at a price tag, keep in mind how much it costs to set a warehouse, buy gold, precious stones, conceive original jewelry, charge the craftsmen for manufacturing. Manage a jewelry store, especially small ones, is a substantial investment in terms of capital equipment, that it is there in the form of rings and necklaces. The jeweler expects you to realize that keeping a store of precious is not how to run a bakery.

collana
Necklace for sale

5 Before getting into a jewelry store is good to be clear how much you are willing to spend. An uncertain idea about financial resources makes difficult for the jeweler, determine what is the most suitable product for you. In any case, aimless expect high quality jewelry on a budget too low.

gioiel-1
A look at the window

6 The jewels are delicate and wear and tear. Necklaces, rings and bracelets needs regular maintenance and cleaning. Most jewelers cleans what you bought in their store for free. Others even offer a warranty on their products. But you must not believe that the jewels can last forever. It is not said. Household chores or every day life can ruin your jewels. And even a diamond, in certain conditions, may deteriorate. Do not blame your jeweler.

Gioielleria a Shanghai
Jewelry store in Shanghai

What jewelry to wear at Christmas

Which jewels to wear on Christmas Day or on Christmas Eve? Here are 5 things to know. The first is … ♦ ︎

Jewels for Christmas. Jewels for the day after Christmas. Jewels for the day before Christmas. And then comes the last day of the year, to celebrate possibly with new jewels. What to wear during the flurry of days in which there are dinners, toasts, meetings with relatives and friends, not counting the opportunities related to their work in the company, office, professional studio?

Collana con perle by Coscia
Pearl necklace by Coscia

1 The three colors of the parties

No surprise: the colors of winter festivals are red, gold and silver. The important thing is that they shine: no fogged silver, the gold is better yellow or white. And red is not must be just a ruby or coral: there are fun and much cheaper jewels that fit well.

Nanis, collezione Dancing in the Rain
Nanis, Dancing in the Rain collection

2 You are not the tree

The risk is to exaggerate. Taken from the euphoria of the holiday period, there are women who exaggerate and decorate themselves like the Christmas fir tree, but without lights flashing. The advice, in these cases, is always the same: better a single jewel of quality, that stands out, that many, small and cheap. At least for holidays you can wear those jewels that, perhaps, during the rest of the year are considered too important.

Uno special piece di Ole Lynggaard: choker Shooting Stars in oro giallo e rosa 18 carati
A special piece by Ole Lynggaard: Shooting Stars choker in 18k yellow and rose gold

3 Christmas lunch

The jewels are not only designed to be worn in the evening: even in the middle of the day they are pleasant to observe. But, of course, you do not need a diamond necklace to sit down at the table with your family members: gold earrings, or a simple and elegant necklace are enough.

Roberto Coin, Rosemin Manji indossa la collezione Sauvage Privé
Roberto Coin, Rosemin Manji wear the Sauvage Privé collection

4 The eve dinner

For the Christmas Eve, a dark-colored dress is often worn. In this case, yellow or white gold, but also a silver jewel as long as bright and design, is fine. If, on the other hand, you have chosen a more lively dress, perhaps on red, choose not too large earrings and opt for a generously sized or particularly colored ring. In particular, if the atmosphere is more like a party than a dinner for a few close friends, you can opt for a cocktail ring, possibly with a predominant red hue.

Tamara Comolli, anello della collezione Curriculum Vitae, oro rosa 18 carati, 12 diamanti bianchi
Tamara Comolli, ring from the Curriculum Vitae collection, 18k rose gold, 12 white diamonds

5 Toast with jewels

During the Christmas season there are not only family dinners, but also toast with friends or work colleagues. In this case it is not necessary to show off the most precious jewels. On the contrary, it is advisable to exaggerate: you could arouse envy, a negative and dangerous feeling, or be out of tune with the rest of the company. So, for these occasions, the jewels must be carefully considered: the right way between jewels and expensive pieces is better.

Collezione Tiffany T
Tiffany T Collection
Collana indossata di Evanueva
Necklace worn by Evanueva
Girocollo con smeraldi e diamanti, indossato
Choker with emeralds and diamonds, worn. Courtesy Bulgari
Collezione Venezia di Leo Pizzo, indossato
Venice collection by Leo Pizzo, worn
Gioielli per Natale Pandora
Jewelry for Christmas Pandora

What are bridge jewelry?

Do you know what bridge jewelry is? This name has been used to indicate a large part of jewelry. If you don’t know what bridge jewels are, then, here’s an opportunity to learn it.

Bracciale fiorito Pandora Garden
Pandora Garden Blumenarmband

Of course, as with all categories, there are nuances. In some cases there are jewels that can be defined differently, a bit like hair color: there are those who are not blonde or even brunette, but somewhere in between. But this does not mean that jewels have long been divided into categories: high jewelery, jewelery, bridge, fashion, to which is added costume jewelery. As it is clear following this cataloging, jewels defined as bridges are halfway between high-end ones and those much more related to fashion.

Collana con pendente ad anelli
Necklace with ring pendant by Morellato

The jewels defined as bridge, in short, is a category that bridges the gap between low-end costume jewelery and high-end jewelery. Bridge jewelry is made with metal such as silver, 9 karat gold, vermeil (gold plated silver). They can be enriched with crystals or with the least expensive semi precious stones or even with synthetic stones and small cultured pearls. In large part this type of jewel is very popular and is represented by major brands, such as Pandora, Thomas Sabo or Morellato, but also individual Maison such as Monica Vinader, Giovanni Raspini or John Hardy, to name a few. And, of course, there are also small artisans who offer bridge jewels.

Cara Delevigne con bracciale di Monica Vinader
Cara Delevingne with Monica Vinader bracelet

According to a survey conducted a few years ago of about 120 jewelers in the United States, the percentage of bridge jewelry in overall sales has remained the same or has increased over time. Nearly half (48%) of jewelers said their bridge jewelry sales have remained pretty much the same as the percentage of overall sales in recent years, while another 43% said they have increased.

Bracciale in argento con acquamarina e cianite, catena soft flex
John Hardy, silver bracelet with aquamarine and kyanite, soft flex chain

Why have bridge-type jewels been successful? The factors that convinced the buyers are two: the very low price, also because it is not particularly sensitive to fluctuations in gold prices, and a design that in many cases has nothing to envy to that of more expensive jewelry. In any case, there are also notable differences between bridge jewels.

Orecchini piccoli della collezione Nautilus
Small earrings from the Nautilus collection by Giovanni Raspini
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