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How to recognize the facets of a brilliant diamond

A quick guide to learning and recognizing the facets of a brilliant cut diamond

The brilliant cut diamond, round, is the most requested especially for the rings, but there are several aspects that it is good to know before buying one, or to learn more about what you already have. If you are interested in knowing how they are cut and what are the different points of a brilliant cut diamond, that is the classic round-shaped gem, you can first of all consider the ability to reflect light.

1 diamante taglio brillante
Brilliant cut diamond

A diamond must be perfectly cut to be able to fully reflect the rays of light that hit it. If a diamond is not cut symmetrically, for example, its brightness will also be altered. This is why the arrangement of the facets is important, and consequently how the light is reflected inside the stone. It is the reason why diamonds are cut in a precise way, which has evolved over time. The most common cut, the brilliant, that is, circular in shape, was codified only in the last century.

Diamond map
Diamond map

So a perfectly cut diamond will reflect better and be more beautiful. If you show that you know the most desired stone in the world well, you will make a great impression with your friends and, perhaps, you will be able to impress the jeweler who wants to sell you a ring. Who knows I won’t give you a discount …

Solitario con diamante taglio brillante e corona di piccoli diamanti
Solitaire with a brilliant cut diamond and a crown of small diamonds

Facets These are the flat surfaces that form the exterior of the diamond after cutting. Each facet is angled, shaped and cut to produce a particular lighting effect. Objective: to better reflect the internal crystalline structure of the diamond. Each type of cut (bright, cushion, pear and so on) produces different reflections. The refraction inside the diamond itself increases the shine and reflections in output towards the surface of the diamond.

Girdle It is the name for the widest part of the diamond, its circumference. That’s where the belt is measured. The common practice today involves also faceting the belt itself, even if the resulting surfaces are not included in the final count of the diamond facets.

Anello con diamante De Beers
De Beers diamond ring

Depth It is the height of the entire diamond. It is measured from the table to the lower tip (the culet). The depth of the diamond helps to set the ratios for cutting the gem. A diamond too deep in relation to its size will have a reflection that tends to be dark. On the contrary, a diamond that is too shallow will not be very bright.

Table. It is the widest facet of the diamond. It is located in the upper part of the diamond, and serves as the main point of entry and dispersion (fire) of light. But, of course, it must have the right proportions to capture the maximum light, but without reducing the surface of the lateral facets.

Il diamante da 102 carati taglio brillante
102 carat brilliant cut diamond

Diameter. The measure of the width of the diamond at its widest point (belt). Of course the diameter must be proportionate to the size of the stone.

Crown. The crown refers to the part of the diamond above the belt. It is the section of the diamond that goes from the widest point to the table.

Anello trilogy, oro bianco e diamanti taglio brillante
Trilogy ring, white gold and three brilliant cut diamonds

Pavilion. The pavilion is the counterpart of the crown, that is, the lower part of the diamond. The area that goes from the belt, or wider section, of the diamond to the bottom (or culet) is defined as the pavilion.

Culet. It is the bottom of the diamond, the smallest facet. The culet has a huge effect on the rest of the diamond: correctly cut, this part of the stone allows the light that has entered to exit effectively through the surface (the table) and dazzle with its reflections. A too large cut culet can cause a negative effect: if it reflects too much light it can have the effect of having a hole inside it. The culet, on the other hand, must be quite small. But it is not uncommon for a diamond not to have a pinnacle entirely.

Anello in platino punzonato Bulgari con un diamante old cut centrale di circa 3 carati, contornato da diamanti taglio brillante e baguette per altri circa 3 carati,
Ring in Bulgari hallmarked platinum with a central old cut diamond of approximately 3 carats, surrounded by brilliant and baguette cut diamonds for another approximately 3 carats
Anello di fidanzamento Venus in oro giallo e diamante sintetico taglio brillante
Alessa, Venus engagement ring in yellow gold and brilliant cut synthetic diamond
Anello Maglia, ispirato alle reti dei pescatori. Diamante a taglio brillante (1,01 carati EVS1), 104 diamanti (1,16 carati), oro grigio perla
Mesh ring, inspired by fishermen’s nets. Brilliant-cut diamond (1.01 carat EVS1), 104 diamonds (1.16 carat), pearl gray gold
Anello trilogy, oro bianco e diamanti taglio brillante
Trilogy ring, white gold and brilliant cut diamonds
Diamond map
Diamond map
tiffany
Sketch of Tiffany ring setting with diamond
Il diamante rosso De Young con taglio a brillante
The De Young Red Diamond
Orecchini con un diamante taglio circolare, del peso di circa 22,60 e 22,31 carati, e diamanti a forma di scudo, montati in platino. Stima: 7-10 milioni dollari
Earrings with a circular cut diamond, weighing approximately 22.60 and 22.31 carats, and shield-shaped diamonds, set in platinum

Short guide to diamonds

Do you know how to distinguish diamonds? What are the four Cs? How are the diamonds evaluated? Here is a quick guide to solve any doubts about diamonds ♦

Diamonds are the most precious stones. But how much are the diamonds of a ring, earrings or necklace really worth? They are all the same? How to recognize and judge them? Gioiellis.com helps you with this exclusive guide, which you can print and save. With a premise: understanding does not mean being able to make an assessment yourself. For a safe and definitive evaluation of a diamond it is better to contact an expert who can view the stone directly.

The Rock, diamante a forma di pera da 228,31 carati
The Rock, 228.31 carat pear-shaped diamond

WHAT IS A DIAMOND?
The substance is one of the many forms in which carbon can occur. In scientific terms, the diamond is constituted by a crystalline lattice of carbon atoms arranged according to an octahedral structure. The name derives from the ancient Greek ἀδάμας, that is, adámas, which means indestructible, just or even immutable.
Diamonds are the deepest material of our planet that has ever reached the earth’s surface and are considered an open window inside the Earth. A material that can not be obtained by any other means. Far beyond their economic value, they have a higher scientific value, because they are able to tell many things about the evolution of the Earth.

Diamanti grezzi
Rough diamonds

THE ORIGIN
The existing diamonds for 94% were formed between 1 and 3 billion years ago at depths between 150 and 200 kilometers, where the very pure carbon, subjected to enormous pressure, generated these stones of great charm. The remaining 6% of diamonds is even more interesting and originates in the “transition zone of the Earth”, between 660 and 2,900 kilometers of depth. They are called super-deep diamonds.

Medaglione Ellesmere, composto da 478 diamanti
Ellesmere medallion, composed of 478 diamonds by De Beers

FEATURES
The diamond is the prince of jewels thanks to the dispersion of white light in the colors of the spectrum, one of its main characteristics. The hardness of the diamond is its other peculiarity, which makes it useful for many industrial applications. Today the global production of rough diamonds is estimated at around 130 million carats (26 tons) per year, of which 92% is cut and polished in India, mostly in the city of Surat. After the first processing, about 85% of rough diamonds, 50% of cut diamonds, and 40% of those for industry are traded on the market in Antwerp, Belgium. The reason is that in the late Quattrocento in Antwerp a new technique was introduced to polish and give shape to the gems. There are more than 12 thousand cutters and polishers at work in the diamond district.

Diamanti
Round cut diamonds

SHORT HISTORY
Diamonds have been known for hundreds of years and have been used as decorative elements since ancient times: the first references have been registered in India. Today the most common use of diamond in jewelry is for the engagement ring, but few know that it is a fairly recent convention, which became popular in the first half of the twentieth century thanks to an advertising campaign by De Beers, the company leader in the diamond trade. More generally, however, diamond rings have been used at least since the fifteenth century to symbolize a commitment.

Anello Dôme di Buccellati, con diamante taglio smeraldo
Dôme ring by Buccellati, with emerald-cut diamond

THE EVALUATION
Diamonds are not all the same. To evaluate them they are classified according to four «C», taking into account the English language: carat (carat), cut (cut), color (color) and clarity. But there are also other characteristics: for example, the presence or absence of fluorescence, which can influence the choice in use for a piece of jewelry and value.

carati
The size of the carats (in proportion)

CARAT
Carat weight measures the mass of a diamond. One carat is 200 milligrams. The price per carat increases with weight, since the larger diamonds are rarer and more in demand as precious stones. In contrast, the value does not increase linearly in the same way with the dimension. For example, a diamond of 0.99 carats can have a much lower price (always per carat) than a 1.01 carat analogue: the difference is caused by the difference in demand.

I gradi di trasparenza del diamante
The degrees of transparency of the diamond

CLARITY
Clarity measures the internal defects of a diamond, called inclusions. Inclusions may consist of crystals of a foreign material, or structural imperfections, such as small cracks or, finally, as a whitish halo. The number, size, color, relative position, orientation and visibility of inclusions can affect the relative clarity of a diamond. The Gemological Institute of America (Gia) and other organizations have developed systems to define the degree of clarity, starting from inclusions that are visible to a professional with a diamond observed at ten magnifications. Only about 20% of all the diamonds extracted have a sufficiently high clarity score for use in jewelry. The other 80% is relegated to industrial use. Of that first 20%, a significant share contains one or more visible inclusions. Stones that do not have a visible inclusion are known as “eye-clean”, clean to the eye, and are obviously the favorite pieces. Attention, sometimes inclusions are hidden under the frame of a piece of jewelry: to find out, you should deconstruct the jewel to examine it. Most of the inclusions present in a diamond, in any case, do not affect the structural integrity of the gem. However, the so-called “clouds” of large dimensions can affect the ability of a diamond to transmit and diffuse light. And large cracks near the surface increase the possibility of a fracture.

Le sfumature del diamante
The nuances of the diamond

COLOR
What is the best color for a diamond? Simple: what is not there. In fact, the most precious variety of diamonds is totally colorless. Also in this case there is a classification, which should be certified by those who sell the jewel: the totally colorless diamond, therefore of the best quality, is classified as D. The next grade, certified with the letter E, has an almost invisible trace of color , which can only be observed by experts in a classification laboratory. The scale continues: even the F diamonds are almost transparent. The stones that, instead, show very small traces of color are classified as G or H. Again: the slightly colored ones are classified as I or J K and up to Z, with a bright yellow coloring. The latter, even if they are at the end of the scale, are however quite rare and therefore very appreciated. Diamonds with unusual coloring are sometimes labeled as fancy (fantasy). Some, like the pink ones, are very rare. The color of a diamond can be caused by chemical impurities and / or structural defects in the crystal lattice. Depending on the shade and the intensity, the color of a diamond can diminish or increase its value. For example, intense blue diamonds (like the one baptized by Hope) are remarkably precious. However, these are exceptional pieces. Most diamonds used as gems are fundamentally transparent, with a small tinge, or white diamonds. The most common impurity, nitrogen, replaces a small percentage of carbon atoms in the diamond structure and causes a yellowish or brownish color.

I tipi di taglio del diamante
Some diamond cuts

CUT
The cut of a diamond describes the way in which a diamond was formed and refined by its rough stone shape. In fact, it describes the processing quality and the angles to which it is cut and is often confused with the concept of form. The cut is not accidental: there are mathematical guidelines for determining angles and length ratios in order to reflect the maximum amount of light. The techniques for cutting diamonds have developed over hundreds of years. But the best results were obtained in 1919 by the mathematician and passionate of gems Marcel Tolkowsky: it is he who developed the brilliant, round cut, calculating the ideal shape to diffuse the light. The brilliant has 57 faces (polished), of which 33 on the crown (the upper part) and 24 on the pavilion (the lower half). The belt is the thin central part. The function of the crown is to refract light in the colors of the iris, while the function of the pavilion is to reflect light through the top of the diamond. The culet is instead the smallest surface in the lower part of the diamond: it should be of a negligible diameter, to avoid the loss of light from the bottom.

Il diamante battuto da Sotheby's per 13,8 milioni di dollari
Oval diamond sold at Sotheby’s for 13.8 million dollars

VALUE
If you want to be updated on the market price of diamonds you can follow the Rapaport Diamond Report (in English), which is published every week by Martin Rapaport, CEO of the Rapaport Group, in New York: it is considered the de facto reference point of the retail price. In the wholesale diamond trade, the term carats is often used to define a sale or purchase. For example, a buyer can place an order for 100 carats (20 g) of 0.5 carats (100 mg), with certain characteristics. In this case the Total carat weight (T.c.w.), ie the total carat weight is used to describe the total mass of diamonds or precious stones in a piece of jewelry. The “solitaire” diamonds for earrings, for example, are usually expressed in Tcw, indicating the mass of diamonds in both earrings and not of every single diamond. Tcw is also widely used for diamond necklaces, bracelets and other jewelry. A quick indication: look at the overall diameter. Typically a 1.0 carat round brilliant (200 mg) should have a diameter of about 6.5 mm. Mathematically, the diameter in millimeters of a round brilliant should correspond to about 6.5 times the cubic root of carat weight, of 11.1 times the cubic root of weight grams, or 1.4 times the cubic root of weight point. In short, to evaluate the true value it takes very precise instruments and a good eye.

Modella con collana composta da 374 diamanti bianchi e gialli
Graff, model with a necklace made up of 374 white and yellow diamonds

How to choose a real pearl necklace

Do you want to buy a real pearl necklace? Do you want to add a natural pearl necklace to your drawer because you are missing this indispensable jewel? Good idea. But you have to be careful because pearls are not all the same. Read what the differences are and how to choose a natural pearl necklace.

Collana di perle naturali, diamanti e rubini
Necklace of natural pearls, diamonds and rubies

You may have noticed that there are a lot of jewels around that are very cheap and use pearls, especially for necklaces. They are certainly not real pearls, but synthetic pearls, imitations created in a fake pearl factory. If you want a necklace of real, natural pearls, you have to spend a little more. But it’s worth it, because a pearl necklace is a classic piece of jewelry that has two advantages: it can be worn with virtually any outfit and on any occasion. And, moreover, it will maintain or increase in value over time.

Collana in oro 18 carati con diamanti colorati e perle barocche multicolori
18k gold necklace with colored diamonds and multicolored baroque pearls

If you are looking for a natural pearl necklace, however, you will have to choose between two different types of pearls: cultured and natural ones. What is the difference? We explain it immediately.
Let’s start by saying, however, that both types of pearls, cultured and natural, are authentic pearls.

A cultured pearl is a pearl through and through. In fact, it is formed inside an oyster or a mollusk just like non-cultured pearls. The difference is that in cultured pearls the pearly spheres that will end up on your necklace are the result of human action. In the large farms in which they are immersed, tiny irritating elements or tiny beads are inserted into the shells around which a larger pearl is then formed. This system was born in Japan at the end of the nineteenth century and was invented by Kokichi Mikimoto, who then patented this process. It’s a big job: for example, a jeweler and pearl producer like Autore, in Australia, gets around 350,000 pearls from his aquatic farms every year.

Una farm per la coltivazione delle perle
A farm for pearl cultivation

Cultured pearls have another advantage: the control of producers allows you to have oysters that produce very quickly and with greater consistency. They are high quality authentic pearls, with a large variety of colors and sizes, and are sold at a moderate price (but don’t think they are cheap).

Cultivating pearls, either in salt water or in fresh water, also allows you to obtain different sizes and colors more easily. In fact, there are many shades that pearls can have. In addition to the white ones, there are golden, purple, blue and pink pearls. Furthermore, they can have different sizes and volumes in addition to the classic sphere.
All about pearls 

Perle sulla spiaggia
Pearls on the beach

Natural pearls, on the other hand, are defined in this way because they are formed without human intervention. It is the case that pushes a grain of sand or an impurity around which the mother of pearl is formed inside the oyster or mollusk. Obviously, it is a rather rare event. Also, the pearl is formed over a longer time than cultured pearls. For this reason, natural pearls cost much more than cultured ones. The large number of ships and pollution have increased the difficulty in identifying a mollusk with a natural pearl: only one shell out of thousands contains a pearl that was formed in nature. A strand of natural South Sea pearls, for example, can cost as much as 100,000 euros or dollars. And the fact that natural pearls are increasingly rare suggests that they will cost more and more.

Collana di Cartier con perle naturali
Cartier necklace with natural pearls

Bottom line: both cultured pearls and natural pearls are authentic pearls. But all pearls, both cultured and natural, can be very different. It is therefore important to buy a pearl necklace from a trusted seller, preferably with a guarantee certificate from a gemological laboratory or institute.

Collana di perle naturali grigie e diamanti
Necklace of natural gray pearls and diamonds

How to spend a little for a diamond ring

How to spend as little as possible on a diamond ring?

If you want to buy a ring, here are the tips not to spend too much and choose well. When you give at her an engagement ring or, in any case, an important jewel to your partner, girlfriend or wife, you don’t have to be stingy. A jewel lasts over time and is something that she will often look at, and think of you every time (or almost) she wears it. In short, it is better to put your hand in your wallet and choose well. Also, keep in mind that you are going to give (or buy) a precious object: it is a small investment that could become useful in case of difficulty. It will be easier to sell a ring with a beautiful diamond, of good workmanship, rather than a ring of a few euros or dollars.

Anello e orecchino della collezione Diva di Leo Pizzo
Ring and earring from the Diva collection by Leo Pizzo

This, however, does not mean being silly. A purchase can be done intelligently, because you have to spend your money well. So here is some advice on choosing a ring: how to get the most out of your budget and spend as little as possible. That is, spending the right amount without throwing money away. Because there are aspects that you need to consider when buying a diamond ring (but it also applies to another type of jewel). Here are three things to keep in mind.

Crieri, Firmamento collecction worn
Crieri, Firmamento collecction worn

1 The choice of metal. The classic 18-karat white, yellow or rose gold is the most used metal for rings. But if you want to spend less, well polished silver is a good alternative. Of course, bear in mind that it will need maintenance: it must be cleaned often, because it tarnishes more easily and tends to oxidize. And when it turns black or green, silver doesn’t make a good impression. An alternative is to choose a gold ring, but with a lower number of carats: you can go down to 9 carats, the minimum to still be considered gold. The price, in this case, is significantly lower. But it is still gold, even if in a smaller percentage than, for example, 18 carats. 9-karat gold is 37.5% pure gold and 62.5% other metals, such as silver or copper. An 18-karat gold ring, on the other hand, is 75% pure gold. But be careful: in reality, for a diamond ring, the cost of gold affects the total price relatively little, what really costs a lot is the weight of the stone. Another alternative to spend even less is to look for a designer ring that combines a precious stone with an inexpensive metal, such as steel. But in this case the design has to be really special.

Anello con solitario di Conte Diamonds
Conte Diamonds solitaire ring

2 The diamonds that cost less. Let’s say it right away: you shouldn’t choose poor quality stones. A certificate from a gemological institute, which is usually issued for stones weighing more than 0.3 carats, is a guarantee. Also remember the classifications of diamonds to choose well (you can find them here). But it is possible, however, to look for diamonds that are less expensive than others. For example, the brilliant cut (round) is the most used for solitaire rings, the classic engagement rings. However, it is also considered the most expensive cut. A diamond with a less frequent cut could save you up to 20% of the price compared to the brilliant. Two tips: the cushion cut or the Asscher cut yield a lot compared to the carat weight and are more convenient. Cuts such as marquise, oval or emerald can also be less expensive, always considering in proportion to the carat weight. Another tip: choose a weight that is not a simple number. For example, a 0.44 carat diamond will be a little cheaper than a 0.50 carat stone and will have the same effect on the eye.

Ring by Giorgio Visconti
Ring by Giorgio Visconti

3 The color of money. Money has a color when it comes to diamonds. If you want to spend a lot, choose colored stones: yellow, pink diamonds, up to red and blue ones if you have a bank account with nine zeros. Colored diamonds, so-called fancy, are impressive, but they are very expensive. But the colorless ones are also very expensive, especially brilliant cuts, if they are of good quality. However, there are diamonds that cost less than others. For example, the brown, champagne, gray, black ones (the heated ones, we explain it here). Their cost is up to 40% lower than the more transparent and colorless white diamonds. Also in this case, however, take into account the famous «4 Cs»: in addition to the color, the degree of clarity and the type of cut chosen also count. Again: if you want a colorless diamond at all costs, you can choose those classified as color G or H. Compared to those D, E or F, those G and H cost less and used on a jewel they are indistinguishable from those who are not a expert gemologist.

Anelli indossati con diamanti by Messika
Rings worn with diamonds by Messika

The 10 rules for buying a jewel on the internet

Do you want to buy a jewel on the internet? Know that you are not alone. In 2020, web searches involving jewelry increased by 28% and online jewelry sales are expected to steadily increase. But is it safe to buy jewelry on the internet? What are the dangers? How to defend yourself from scams?

Unfortunately, even if most of the people who buy jewelry on the internet have no problems, the scam is always lurking. But, thankfully, it’s not that hard to avoid getting cheated. Just follow the rules and do a few small checks before typing in your credit card number.

Acquisti su internet
Shopping on the internet

What are the dangers when buying a jewel on the internet? In 2019, for example, in the US, the FBI received an average of 1,300 reports of online theft per day (not just about jewelry, of course), for a total of $ 3.5 billion illegally stolen. The worst scam is to buy a fake jewel, perhaps a ring with the brand of a famous Maison. Or, simply, with diamonds that are not diamonds. Or diamonds born in the laboratory and not natural. Or, again, gold jewelry that turns out to be simply covered with a thin plating. Finally, the most frequent disappointment is that of finding a jewel that does not correspond to the idea suggested by the site (or the jeweler) who sold it. For example, with tiny stones, less brilliant than those in the photograph and, above all, of Lilliputian dimensions.

Shopping online in tutta comodità
Online shopping in complete convenience

So why do internet jewelry purchases keep increasing? The dangers listed are possibilities, but fortunately they are not the rule. In addition, it is very convenient to receive a ring at home (when you are not mistaken in choosing the size). For many people it is not easy to approach a jewelry store for the embarrassment of having to admit the availability of a limited budget. Or because, simply, the desired jewelry brand is not available in physical stores in your city or locality. So, don’t worry too much: following the rules for buying jewelry on the internet can make you have the advantages of online shopping without running any dangers.

Lavoro di hacking
Hacking job

1 Check who the seller is
A well-known brand will surely avoid selling pits. And it does not need to be one of the largest companies in the world, as long as the brand is large enough and well known in the area in which it operates: a company is unlikely to risk losing its credibility. But it is also important to check that the site on which you are about to make a purchase is a reliable one, that of the brand of jewelery you want to purchase or a reliable online shopping site, Luisaviaroma, Modus Operandi, or a well-known jewelery company and, above all , which really exists. To avoid unpleasant surprises, check that you are not a victim of phishing.

Meglio un controllo attento
Better to check carefully

2 Beware of mistakes
It seems trivial to say, but one of the dangers involved is to misspell the company name in the browser’s address bar. If you google Tiffany, you can be sure that the search engine will show you the right link. But if, by mistake, you write Tifany (for example) in the address bar, you can run the risk of ending up on a site that mimics the famous jewelry brand. Or, even worse, on a site built to resemble the authentic one in every way. Obviously to take possession of your data.

Non sbagliate a digitare il nome
Don’t misspell the name

3 Find out the identity of the company
If you buy a jewel from a company in your country, it will be easy to check on their website what the name of the company behind the brand is. The name of the jewelry brand, in fact, does not always correspond to that of the company that produces them. A quick web search by typing the name of the company can confirm that the company really exists, the address, the name of the owner. All information that is an extra guarantee. And if you want to be even safer, make a phone call to the company.

Controllate le «impronte digitali» dell'azienda
Check the company’s “digital footprints”

4 Beware of easy lucky
Before making a purchase, compare similar jewelry from different companies. Carats of gold, the weight of the stones, the quality of diamonds: these are all elements that affect the price of a jewel. When you have an idea of ​​how much the jewel you want to buy can cost, you can discard incredible discounts, unmissable offers, stratospheric discounts that are about to expire on sites other than those of a well-known manufacturer. It is probably fraud.

Diffidate dei colpi di fortuna
Be wary of lucky breaks

5 Avoid public wi-fi networks
You are at the airport and you have boring hours in front of you waiting to board the plane. To distract yourself, decide to go shopping with your smartphone. Mistaken. If you use public wi-fi networks, the danger is around the corner. There may be a cybercriminal around you just waiting for some gullible to enter your credit card number. The public networks, in fact, are very convenient, but also at risk if you venture into shopping. Fortunately, however, there is a remedy: use a VPN: a virtual private network makes your connection impenetrable. It is a service that can be purchased for a few euros or dollars a month.

Courtesy: comparitech.com
Courtesy: comparitech.com

6 Beware of passwords
It seems incredible, but even for 2020 the most widespread password worldwide is 123456. An invitation to dinner for those who want to steal your data. Use passwords that are difficult to guess, with a mix of lowercase and uppercase numbers, letters, and symbols. Avoid birth dates and names of children and partners. Think of a movie, place or book that is important to you and start from that. Don’t use the same password for different sites.

File che contiene alcune password criptate
File containing some encrypted passwords

7 Pay attention to the abbreviation at the top left
E-commerce sites, as well as banks or where money passes, must have the web address preceded by https: //. These letters indicate that the site is protected with SSL (secure socket layer) encryption. If an e-commerce site starts with http only, it means that it is not secure and is probably very suspicious.

Shopping con lo smartphone
Shopping with smartphone

8 Credit card is better
A credit card does not allow the seller to directly access the money in your bank account. Additionally, most credit cards offer refund liability in the event of fraud. Therefore, a credit card is better than a debit card (such as an ATM).

Carte di credito
Credit cards

9 Consider a virtual credit card
To purchase a jewel, you can use a virtual credit card, basically a temporary card number that is linked to the real credit card account. In this way, in the event of data theft, the damage will be limited.

Shopping online
Shopping online

10 Size matters
One of the biggest disappointments is to receive a jewel that turns out to be much smaller than expected. Yet on the site it looked so big … Before buying a jewel, check the dimensions described carefully and try to compare them to a jewel you already own. You will realize the differences and avoid bad surprises.

Shopping da Tiffany
Shopping at Tiffany’s

Expert advice for buying diamonds

Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires: which is their value? How to recognize them? Some people buy them to make up for something, someone to love, for others is a safe haven investment. Whatever the motivation, the opinion of an expert is crucial. Mainly because when it comes to diamonds, there are parameters which are a kind of list of basis for the listing, but for colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires the matter is not simple. What to be careful and what criteria adopted for the selection, is explained by Pio Visconti, Italian Gemological Institute lecturer, consultant of many regional entity and owner of the Gemological Centre based in Valenza. The proof that it is a famous gemologist, lies in the fact that his skill is cited as a guarantee in the auction catalogs, in case of its certification of the jewel. «How to evaluate a stone? If you were to buy a Rolex goes from the authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?», says in this interview with Gioiellis.com .

Pio Visconti in tenuta da golf
Pio Visconti in golf attire

Question. Which among the famous four C carat, color, clarity and  cut, it is more important when choosing a diamond?Answer. The criterion that must prevail, in my opinion, is cut. Of course weight, color and clarity are important, but because spending a stone IF 40 points and 70 points maybe a Vs2 is quite similar, the fact remains that when the diamond is set must shine on the frame, it must be a mountain of light, as the ancients said, and this can only be achieved with a good cut.

Fedi eternity in diamanti
Eternity wedding rings in diamonds

Q. But those who are not in the industry how can recognize a good job? They only rely on their aesthetic sense?

A. In the certificate are visible the numbers that refer to the values ​​of the upper part, for example 57 %, and the height of the crown 14%. To the customer does not say anything and that is why beside is written the analyst’s judgment: excellent, good, average, as proportions or as accuracy. Ultimately, I’d recommend a diamond cut-out great, because the other criteria are linked to the price.

Q. What do you do if the certificate does not exist?

A. I do have a question: if you were to buy a Rolex goes from authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?

Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi
Legends of Africa ring with white diamonds and emeralds

Q. Many well-known brands are keen to highlight the exclusive use of certified diamonds, but there is the risk of receiving the certificate of another gem?

A. Anything can happen, but ruining his reputation for a non-transparent behavior for little gems of value is not worth it, especially since it takes very little to turn into a business catastrophe. In cases of very rare stones, the diamond is sealed with his certificate inside, even in the last decade is increasingly the request of  engraving the certificate number on the girdle of the stone itself.

Q. The race to the certification also depends on the remarkable technological developments in producing synthetic diamonds that are derived from carbon yes, but made ​​in a laboratory, and on the increasing of the number of natural stones modified by man to make them look more beautiful. The Gemological Institute of America (Gia), has even developed a 3D software to mask false. Does it work?

A. It is one more tool, but alone is not enough. The job of the gemologist is to identify the authenticity of the stone with a suitable instrumentation. In addition, there is a price list of the maximum for each of the 4 C, but the precise value is determined by supply and demand. Traders can even evaluate the stone without even seeing her, precisely because the certificate is authentic. Things however, is terribly complicated with colored stones: no certifying agency in the world is able to identify parameters in a serious manner that may suggest the value of an emerald, a ruby and a sapphire. And for precious stones is even worse.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show
Examination of a diamond jewel

Q. It is said that the origin of the gems will determine the quality. It is true that the Burmese rubies are the most beautiful, as well as Colombian emeralds need to be?

A. It is a simplification: it is known that a Burmese ruby ​​usually has the characteristics of exceptional color because it is bright red, shiny, without saturation of dark tone or purple, almost the shade of the Ferrari cars to be understood. This does not mean that similar stones can not be found even in deposits of other countries, but they are certainly rarer. For example, those thai have excellent transparency, but also a purplish tinge, or a very small saturation blue. The same applies to emeralds: some exemplar, magnificent for color and transparency, the typical characteristics of beryl Colombians, were discovered in Brazil. Sapphires of Kasmhir are of a incomparable blue, but rare, while those of Ceylon are lighter but warmer tinge and, yet, those of Siam are of a very intense shade.

D. If the origin does not guarantee the quality, what about the cut?

A. The colored stones have most complicated crystal systems than diamonds, what matters is a good symmetry and uniformity color view from above, because you will never get this profile. For this reason, a cut not perfectly centered is acceptable in emeralds, rubies and sapphires. On the contrary, it is unacceptable in a diamond.

Q. And it always comes back to cutting …

A. Make the most of both the weight and the color of the gem depends on the skill of the cutter: Australian sapphires are very dark with a greenish overtones and therefore unloved, they are usually sliced ​​thin enough to avoid accentuating the gloom. Instead, those from Ceylon with very nice shades, but not so intense, have a much larger pavilion to enhance the color.

Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms
6.41 carat unheated pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby set in an 18k yellow and white gold ring surrounded by diamonds, designed by Forms

Q. But then the criterion of choice for these stones is the color?

A. Yes, it must be as pure as possible, reflect the idea of ​​green or red or blue we have. Obviously, I do not see inclusions with the naked eye, maybe you can help me with a diopter glasses or two, because imperfections will lower the value. And if you happen to want to do some shopping while traveling, before you buy a stone better go before a certifying agency of the place.

Anello Margot con zaffiro taglio pera e diamanti
Margot ring with pear-cut sapphire and diamonds

Q. What are the most common counterfeits and the most economically harmful? We often hear about emeralds “No Oil ” as a sign of authenticity. Is also true for rubies and sapphires?

A. Of all the treatments mentioned is that most harmless and also the oldest: Plinius mentions in his writings that make for the most beautiful emeralds was enough to soak them in the oil. The micro-fractures resin impregnated: yes those who are serious. For sapphires the most resounding method is thermo-diffusion, which tinged with blue a natural corundum completely colorless and reduces the value one-tenth. The outcome? A gem from 70 euro including treatment, may also be assessed 1,200 Euros. While the roots of ruby, so named because opaque, are rubies of very low quality, that with a very sophisticated technique, receive infiltration glass. Are generally lead to increase the effect, in order to make the rubies completely transparent. So, a 4 -carat stone of the cost to trade effortlessly exceed 100 dollars, has the same appearance of one evaluated a 5 thousand dollars.

Q. So the certification agency guarantees the authenticity and origin of the product?

A. Yes, it checks whether it is natural or synthetic , in the first case, it has undergone treatment. Thanks to the inclusions, which are the traces of the rock in which the rock was formed, it is possible to trace the geographical area. Value there is a very wide gap related to trade, fashion, personal perception.

Pietre di colore: zaffiro, rubino, rubellite e zaffiro giallo
Color stones: sapphire, ruby, rubellite and yellow sapphire

How to evaluate the pavé of your jewels

Can you realy judge the pavé of your jewel? Pavé is the most used technique in jewelry, but few really know how it is made. Read how to evaluate the pavé stones on your jewels ♦

There are jewellery composed of gems so close to each other that it seems a continuous surface: is the effect of a pavé done perfectly, which transforms a flower, an insect or any shape in an object of unique harmony. The outcome is the result of many hours of work and great skills. Of course, recognize the best one is not difficult, just a certain sensitivity, but understand why it is so special makes the experience even more satisfying. Here a few examples of fine jewelry to get to know this technique: basically learn a bit more also helps to make better choices and make an informed purchase.

Plumettes, bracciale in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti by Dior
Plumettes, white gold and diamond pavé bracelet by Dior

The technique

Conical holes are dug in the metal where insert the stones, that are subsequently blocked (set) with tiny balls obtained engraving with a chisel (scorper) the excavated material on the sides of the stone. It is clear that it is a job, the one done handmade by the jewel setter, very neatly. The shortest distance between stones requires greater skill and care, which increase the cost of production. Vice versa wider spaces filled with these tiny balls indicate the opposite. But not only: the throng around the stone often provides an effect of overall confusion that the experts define by the word dirty.

Michele della Valle, spilla con pavé di zaffiri La Rose de Bourbon
Michele della Valle, La Rose de Bourbon sapphire pavé brooch

The Tubetto collection by De Grisogono is a textbook example: the blacks diamond of the ring below, although of different dimension, are all on the same level. It is the ability of the stone setter to ensure that larger gems not protrude too much and small ones remain in evidence, and that requires the groove depth must be calculated to the nearest millimeter, operation even more difficult when they are of different sizes. Moreover, the tiny balls that hold the stones are nearly invisible in pictures like this where the object is much zoomed.

Anello Tubetto con diamanti neri della ormai scomparsa Maison svizzera de Grisogono
Tubetto ring with black diamonds from the now closed Swiss Maison de Grisogono

Here two more examples of admirable invisible setting, the Camaleonte by Vhernier and the American flag earrings by Michele della Valle. Getting this kind of quality is much more difficult with colorless diamonds on white gold, because with colored stones, if the base is good, you can improve the pavé by coloring the metal. Furthermore, in these two cases the pavé is continuous, does not have metal slabs that circumscribe it, but wraps the setting. Detail which increases the difficulty and the execution time.

Vhernier, spilla Camaleonte con pavé di diamanti bianchi, sugilite, giada nera, opale arlecchino, cristallo di rocca
Vhernier, Chameleon brooch with pavé white diamonds, sugilite, black jade, harlequin opal, rock crystal
Michele della Valle, orecchini american flag con zaffiri, spinelli e diamanti
Michele della Valle, American flag earrings with sapphires, spinels and diamonds

Below is interesting to note the elegance of details: the tiny balls are in yellow or black gold depending on the color of the stones; in the second image instead, a mixed technique: the points on plate (cylinders applied on the metal instead of balls engraved with chisel) in the center and pavé on the sides.

De Grisogono dettaglio ciondolo
De Grisogono, detail of a pendant

Other examples of high all Italian handicraft: Drapes ring by Palmiero with stones of equal size despite the drape, and the Pom Pom bracelet by Pomellato.

Palmiero anelli Drapes
Palmiero, Drapes rings
Pomellato, bracciale PomPom
Pomellato, PomPom bracelet

Finally, always from Pomellato an example of pavé of line Sabbia, where seems that in the design phase at computer the space required to place the stones and tiny balls are pointed out without having to perform by hand  to get this precise effect. Monica Battistoni

Pomellato, anello Sabbia
Pomellato, Sabbia ring

How to choose the jewelry box

How to choose the right jewelry box for you? If you have not yet purchased a jewelery box, a container designed specifically for rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings, read what are the aspects to pay attention to. Because a jewelry box not only allows you to better keep the jewels, but it is also an aid for their choice when it is time to wear them. Here, then, how to choose the most suitable jewelry box for you.

Porta gioielli in legno di Seya
Seya wooden jewelry holder

The material. Most jewelry boxes are made of plastic or other synthetic material. However, they are not necessarily the most suitable for you. For sure they are the ones that cost less, but also consider choosing a wooden jewelry box. They are harder to find and even more expensive, but they have some advantages. The first is to be aesthetically pleasing. After all, a jewelry box will almost always be placed on a piece of furniture and, therefore, clearly visible in the house. In addition, wood can be especially useful in slightly humid environments, because it absorbs and keeps the jewels drier. On the other hand, consider that plastic jewelry boxes are probably more comfortable, because they contain compartments and moving parts that can better adapt to the type and quantity of jewelry you have to store. There are also jewelry boxes covered in leather, a real luxury.

Porta gioielli di E-manis
Jewelry holder by E-Manis

The interior. The simplest jewelry boxes are basically small parallelepipeds that contain drawers and compartments in which to put the jewels. Ok, but not all jewels are the same. For example, for rings there are drawers with slots in which to put the jewel. The bracelets, on the other hand, need more space, like necklaces. The earrings should not touch too much to prevent them from getting tangled or scratched. So, before choosing a jewelry box, take note of how it is structured inside and see if it is suitable for the number and type of jewelry you own (and for those that still have to give you).

Jewelbox
Travel jewelbox

The coating. The inside of the drawers of a jewelry box is usually covered with a fabric. Caution: The lining should be soft, yet strong enough not to cause lint or fray. However, nothing prevents you from storing your jewels in the small bags used in jewelry.

Portagioie di Forrica
Forrica jewelry box

Style. There are a myriad of jewelery boxes on the market. It is up to you to choose the one that best suits not only the jewelry you own, but also the furnishings of your home. Jewelery boxes with many drawers, which develop vertically must not cover mirrors, paintings, framed photographs or anything else. Those that look more like a briefcase and are not very tall, on the other hand, will have to have the right place to be placed without taking up too much space on the furniture.

Portagioie di Songmics con serratura
Songmics lockable jewelry box

Safety. Let’s face it: a jewelry box is the most comfortable object in this world but, of course, it will also be the first thing a thief will take with him or empty if he visits your home. On the other hand, even keeping the jewels in a drawer or in the back of the wardrobe will only postpone the theft for a few minutes. How then? One option is to buy a travel jewelry box: in this case you can take it with you on vacation (but beware of thefts in the hotel). But the only real solution is to equip the entire house with a powerful anti-theft system. And if you have a particularly precious piece of jewelry, put it in a safe (if it is sturdy enough) or in a bank safe. If, then, you live with other people who are not your partner, consider choosing a jewelry box with a lock. Just in case.

La cassaforte per gioielli Baron
The Baron jewelry safe

How to clean silver jewelry

How to remove the patina that tarnish your silver jewelry and black that is formed on the surface with four quick moves.

Your silver jewelry that they have become blacks? Here’s how to make shiny and beautiful your silver jewelry. It is not difficult, just follow the instructions of this tutorial, which can also be used for other items made with white metal. First, because we see the jewels are ruined: the fogging occurs when the surface of the jewel silver is combined with sulfur, a substance that can be contained in the air (in particular, where there is more pollution) and transforms the metal into sulphide silver, which has the black color. But fortunately to eliminate fogging and black it is not difficult.

1 Hot Water

Cup of hot water, but not too much
Cup of hot water, but not too much

The first thing to do to clean the blackened silver is pour two cups of hot water, but not boiling, in a bowl. The water should cover the jewel (or jewels) completely.

2 Pour salt

 Spoon of salt
Spoon of salt

Pour in the water a tablespoon of coarse salt. The salt acts as a mild cleanser that removes oxidation without the risks a silver abrasion. Stir gently until the salt is dissolved completely. The amount of water must be proportionate to the number of jewels to clean. This method of cleaning is very delicate, but if the jewelry there are very expensive stones (even if it is difficult with the silver), it is preferable to bring the jewel from a professional, you never know. Alternative: Instead of salt you can use baking soda.

3 Aluminium sheet

Aluminium sheet
Aluminium sheet

Here comes the best part: after adding salt, you must put into the water a aluminum foil cut in strips, of those that are used in the kitchen to store food. The combination of salt and aluminum reacts tarnishing of silver and creates a bright shiny surface. This is because the silver sulfide reacts with the aluminum placed in a saline solution. The chemical reaction which takes place converts the silver sulphide in pure silver. You must control before the water is still hot. Leave to soak the jewelry for about 5 minutes. If silver is very tarnished you can repeat the process until the metal back perfectly bright.

4 Rinse the jewelry

Do not forget the last thing to do: move the jewelry under cold running water to remove the salt. Finally, dry the jewelry with a soft cloth or microfiber towel.

Pulizia dell'argento con un foglio di alluminio
Cleaning silver with aluminum foil
Un bracciale in argento che si è ossidato
An oxidized silver bracelet

Who certifies diamonds

When you buy a diamond jewel of a certain size and weight it is almost mandatory to request a certificate attesting to the quality and characteristics of the stone. The same goes for jewelry with colored gemstones, such as rubies, emeralds or sapphires. In short, when the expense for a jewel is high, you need to be sure of what you buy. Be careful, though. Not all gemological institutes that issue certificates are the same. And not all certificates are equally trusted. For less valuable stones this is a minor problem, because a certification will not significantly change the reliability of the analysis. But for larger gems, relying on a certificate that has prestige on the market is essential when selling the jewel.

Selezione dei diamanti nel laboratorio di Antwerp (Anversa)
Selection of diamonds in the Tiffany laboratory in Antwerp

Gemology, the study of precious stones, is a field that requires precision, expertise and attention to detail. When it comes to grading diamonds, some gemological institutes stand out for their comprehensive training, cutting-edge research and global recognition. Below are some of the top gemological institutes renowned for their expertise in diamond grading. Their certificates are recognized and reliable. The most famous of all is the GIA, but it is not the only one. Certificates, of course, come at a cost. The most expensive are those of GIA, followed by HRD Antwerp. However, they are also the institutes considered most stringent in controlling the quality of diamonds and, therefore, most esteemed.

Who certifies diamonds

Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
Founded in 1931, the GIA is one of the most respected gemological institutes in the world. It is the most famous. Its certificates are considered the best for both colorless and fancy (colored) diamonds.
• GIA offers a comprehensive diamond grading course covering the 4Cs (color, clarity, cut and carat weight), fluorescence and other essentials.
• Its laboratory services are highly regarded and provide diamond grading reports recognized throughout the world.
• GIA graduates often hold prestigious positions in the diamond industry, demonstrating the institution’s credibility.

Gia
Gia

Antwerp World Diamond Center (AWDC) – HRD Antwerp
• HRD Antwerp, a subsidiary of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre, is a leading authority in diamond certification and research.
• The institute offers a range of diamond grading courses, including tailor-made programs for professionals and enthusiasts.
• HRD Antwerp’s laboratory services are renowned for their accuracy and adherence to rigorous classification standards.
• With its roots in the diamond capital of the world, HRD Antwerp is respected for its expertise and contribution to the diamond industry.
Hrd Antwerp
Hrd Antwerp

International Gemological Institute (IGI)
• Founded in 1975, IGI is one of the largest independent gemological institutes, with offices around the world, for example in Antwerp.
• IGI offers courses in diamond grading, gemology and jewelry design, aimed at both enthusiasts and professionals.
• Known for its accurate and reliable diamond certifications, IGI is trusted by both jewelers and consumers.
• Its research initiatives contribute to advancements in diamond identification and grading technology.

Igi
Igi

European Gemological Laboratory (EGL)
• With laboratories in various countries, EGL has been a major player in diamond grading since its inception in the 1970s in Belgium.
• EGL offers comprehensive diamond grading courses, focusing on both theoretical knowledge and practical skills.
• Although grading standards may vary slightly from other institutes, EGL certified diamonds are widely accepted in the industry.
• EGL’s reputation for consistent and thorough grading makes it the preferred choice for diamond certification.
Egl
Egl

The best gemology institutes for colored stones

In addition to diamonds, gemological institutes specializing in colored stones such as rubies, emeralds and sapphires play a crucial role in the identification, classification and certification of these precious gems. Here are some of the best institutes renowned for their expertise in classifying colored stones:

Swiss Gemological Institute (SSEF)
• Founded in 1974, SSEF is a respected authority in gemological research and certification.
• SSEF offers specialized courses in the analysis of colored gemstones, focusing on treatments, origin determination and quality assessment.
• The institute’s state-of-the-art laboratory uses advanced techniques such as spectroscopy and inclusion analysis for precise evaluation of gemstones.
• SSEF’s expertise in colored gemstones extends to both traditional varieties and rare collectible specimens.

Ssef
Ssef

Gübelin Gem Laboratory
• Founded in 1923, Gübelin Gem Lab is a renowned authority in the analysis and certification of colored gemstones.
• Gübelin offers specialized courses in the identification of colored gemstones, covering factors such as color, clarity and determining origin.
• The institute’s cutting-edge technology, including spectroscopy and microscopy, allows for accurate characterization of gemstones.
• Gübelin’s research in gemology contributes to scientific understanding and advances in the analysis of colored stones.
Gübelin
Gübelin

GRS (Gem Research Swisslab)
It is an internationally renowned Swiss gemological institute, specializing in the evaluation and certification of precious stones.
• It was founded in 1996 by Dr. Adolf Peretti and Dr. Lore Kiefert.
• The company has earned a reputation for excellence in gemological analysis services.
• GRS is known for its expertise in dealing with a wide range of gemstones, including colored and rare stones.
• Offers certification, identification, evaluation and consultancy services for natural, synthetic and treated gems.
• Their working methodology is based on a combination of cutting-edge technologies and traditional skills, ensuring accurate and reliable results. GRS is a valuable resource for dealers, collectors, and jewelry enthusiasts who seek authenticity and quality in their gemstones.
Grs
Grs

Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS)
• Based in Thailand, AIGS is a leading gemological institute specializing in colored gemstones.
• AIGS offers comprehensive gemology courses, including modules dedicated to rubies, emeralds, sapphires and other colored stones.
• Known for its hands-on approach to gemstone identification, AIGS provides students with practical skills essential to the industry.
• AIGS certified gemstones are highly appreciated in the global market for their accurate grading and detailed reporting.
Aigs
Aigs

Gemological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A)
• Founded in 1908, Gem-A is one of the oldest gemological institutes, with a rich history in gemstone education and research.
• Gem-A offers gemology courses covering a wide range of topics, including identifying and grading colored gemstones.
• The institute’s Gemology Diploma program offers comprehensive training in gemstone analysis, preparing students for a career in the gem and jewelry industry.
• Gem-A’s commitment to excellence and academic rigor has earned it global recognition as the leading authority in gemological education.
Gem-A
Gem-A

In conclusion, these gemological institutes stand out for their expertise, credibility and contributions to the field of gemology. Be it the grading of diamonds or the identification of colored stones, these institutions play a vital role in maintaining standards and advancing knowledge in the gem and jewelry industry.
Anello con brillante indossato
Ring with diamond worn by Conte Diamonds

The 10 most worn rings

Which ring to choose? Each shape of this jewel has its own meaning and its own name. Read what are the 10 kind of rings most worn and what they symbolize ♦

There are many types of rings: there are not only those for engagement or marriage. The shape of a ring also depends on which finger of the hand to wear it or on which occasion is more appropriate, because many types of rings also have a symbolic meaning. Not surprisingly, jewelers offer their rings with a precise definition, such as eternity, trilogy, solitaire, cocktail … Here are the 10 most requested ring models and what the different shapes of this jewel mean.

Anello in oro rosa con calcedonio della Namibia
Rose gold ring with Namibian chalcedony

1 Solitaire. It is the most popular and popular engagement ring: it has a diamond mounted on its own, with no other stones around it, on a metal band. Symbolic meaning: one diamond, one love. The stem can be in gold, most of the time white, or platinum, very rarely in silver or titanium. The solitaire ring symbolizes the commitment of a woman who agrees to marry the man who gives her the jewel. But, worn over time, it remains the sign of exclusive love. The solitaire can also be worn after marriage, together with the wedding band.

Tiffany Harmony, anello solitaire
Tiffany Harmony, solitaire ring

2 Eternity. Ring with a metal band (usually white gold) and a continuous line of gems (usually diamonds, but they are also offered with different stones, such as emeralds, rubies or sapphires). As the name indicates, eternity symbolizes love that never ends. It is a ring often given by a husband to his wife on an anniversary, usually after ten years of marriage. If the diamonds set do not follow the entire circumference, but only a part (also to make it more comfortable to wear), it is also defined as half-eternity. But in this case the concept is the same: eternal love (and even a minor expense).

Anello Live Diamond con diamanti prodotti in laboratorio
Live Diamond eternity ring with laboratory-produced diamonds

3 Wedding ring. It is the classic wedding ring, the most used. It is characterized by a usually smooth metal, most often yellow gold. The width is variable, it depends on your tastes. The ring offers the possibility to engrave the wedding date or the name of the wife or husband inside. Introduced by the ancient Romans, the wedding ring symbolizes the commitment made to marriage. The wedding ring is generally worn on the left hand on the ring finger, while in Central-Eastern Europe, and also in the Iberian Peninsula (except Catalonia), it is used to put it on the right.

Read also On which finger to wear the ring

Anello di Damiani con piccolo diamante all'interno
Damiani ring with small diamond inside

4 Toi et Moi. It is a ring with two similar, but not necessarily the same, stones set facing each other. A contrast, but also a union of two different personalities, which complement each other. It is a ring that symbolizes a close relationship between two people. Giving this ring as a gift is a bit like saying: always carry me with you. It is also a ring that allows designers and jewelers to test their imagination: rings of this type can be made with two simple stones, or with the choice of bold combinations.

Anello in oro bianco toi et moi con diamanti
Toi et moi white gold ring with diamonds by Shay

5 Phalanx ring. This ring has a smaller diameter than a normal ring: in fact, it is worn on the first or second phalanx of the finger. Used in antiquity, it is back in fashion now. But you need to pay attention to the size: it must be the right size so as not to risk losing it. It is usually very thin, light, often made of metal only, without stones.

Anelli firmati Ella
Rings signed Ella

6 Trinity. Ring designed by Cartier in 1924 and heavily imitated. It consists of three different metal bands of different colors and with different symbologies: pink gold indicates love, yellow gold is chosen as a sign of fidelity (because it recalls the wedding ring) and, finally, white gold signals friendship. The three metal bands intersect to form a single ring. Much appreciated especially by young people. It is also proposed with some variations, for example, with the use of stones set in the metal.

Trinity ring di Cartier
Trinity ring by Cartier

7 Trilogy. Not to be confused with the trinity ring. The trilogy ring indicates a metal band with three stones mounted, usually diamonds. It looks like a solitaire ring, but multiplied by three. The meaning? Well, if you search on Google you will find quite a few. But the real thing is: my dear, I can’t spend on one large diamond ring, but with three small ones I get (almost) the same effect. And that’s right.

Anello trilogy di Recarlo
Recarlo trilogy ring

8 Ring with secret. In fashion in the Middle Ages (they were also used to hide poison), they are now small and complex works of art. This type of ring came back into fashion in the Victorian era, because the secret compartment could be used to hold a message, a small portrait of the lover, or a symbol. It sounds unbelievable, but at that time there were no messages on Whastapp. They are bulky rings and the secret compartment today often reserves surprises.

Anelo con segreto di Theo Fennel
Ring with secret by Theo Fennel

9 Cocktail ring. Born during the years of Prohibition in the United States, these were worn by women at banned alcohol-based parties. Large, showy, with colored stones, they are afternoon or early evening rings. They symbolize, as the name indicates, the desire to have fun and a little to transgress. Given the size and bright colors, however, they are not easy to match with the dress.

Read also The secrets of the cocktail ring

Jacob, anello cocktail
Jacob, cocktail ring

10 Halo. The name indicates a ring with a diamond or other central stone and a crown of smaller gems around it. It is a gimmick of jewelry designers that serves to increase the visual impact of the stones, without having to resort to a larger and more expensive gem. It is a type of setting widely used for both demanding and less expensive rings.

Blue NIle, halo ring
Blue Nile, halo ring

All About Platinum

Want to buy a platinum ring? Here is what you need to know about platinum, one of the most precious metals used in jewelry, particularly for rings. And so, it’s better gold or platinum? ♦

“Do you prefer gold or platinum?”. It is one of the classic questions that usually hear who goes by the jeweler to buy a ring, in particular for the engagement or marriage. Who is not an expert you end up choosing the least expensive metal: gold. But to know the characteristics of what is the most rare and noble material, platinum, could lead to making a different choice.

Bracciale stile art déco in platino, diamanti e onice
Neil Lane, art deco style bracelet in platinum, diamonds and onyx

Features. The name platinum is derived from the Spanish word platina, which is literally translated into “little silver.” It’s very rare. And so it is also much more expensive than gold. It comes together with nickel and copper minerals, mainly in South Africa, where it is concentrated 80% of world production. Platinum is one of less alterable metals: has outstanding corrosion resistance, even at high temperatures, and is therefore considered a noble metal.

La corona realizzata per la regina Elisabetta , moglie del re Giorgio VI, la Regina madre: ha la cornice in platino
The crown made for Queen Elizabeth, wife of King George VI, the Queen Mother: it has a platinum frame

Platinum and jewelry. Platinum is used in jewelry for its lasting and elegance. It is soft, pliable and easy to work, but it is also strong and durable. For this, for example, it is very appreciated in jewelry to containing precious stones: the jaws platinum are more secure than those in gold. Also, the color goes well with the purity of diamonds. It’s often used in alloys with other metals, such as iridium, osmium, palladium, rhodium and ruthenium, but in this case should be reported. If you buy a platinum jewel beware that has the symbol ‘Plat’: means that platinum is a purity of 95%.

History. Platinum was already known by the ancient Egyptians: historians have established that a priestess commissioned a craftsman platinum hieroglyphics on her sarcophagus. And today, after 2500, the designs are perfectly intact. Even King Louis XVI (end of 1700) loved the platinum jewelry. And some of the most famous diamonds in the world were placed in a platinum structure, such as the Hope diamond.

Chaumet, tiara in platino e diamanti
Chaumet, tiara in platinum and diamonds

How do you clean platinum? Although platinum is a particularly resistant metal, it is necessary to provide for cleaning from time to time. The best method is always to dip the ring or bracelet in a bowl with hot, but not boiling water, in which you have melted a few drops of neutral liquid soap. After leaving the jewel to soak for ten minutes, rinse, and then gently rub (especially if there are also stones) with a toothbrush with soft bristles. Then, dry with a microfibre cloth: cotton or wool can leave residues attached to the jewel if it is not perfectly smooth. Another method is to soak the platinum jewel in a container of water with the addition of sodium bicarbonate. After a few minutes, pour half a glass of vinegar: for the reaction, water will start producing bubbles. After 10 minutes rinse the jewel in cold water.

Anello solitario in platino e diamante con il Tiffany Setting
Platinum and diamond solitaire ring with the Tiffany Setting
Cartier, solitario in Platino e diamanti
Cartier, solitaire in platinum and diamonds
Luois Vuitton: fede in platino della collezione Empreinte, ispirata ai chiodi dei bauli con solitario incastonato. Prezzo 1890 euro
Louis Vuitton: platinum wedding ring from the Empreinte collection, inspired by trunk nails with a solitaire set
Bracciale di platino con diamanti e rubini venduto per 149mila dollari
Bracelet with diamonds and rubies
Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds circa 1950

How much are black pearls worth?

The precious black pearls: have you heard of them? Read how to recognize them and how much they are worth ♦

To indicate something of value is said to be as precious as a pearl. But if the pearl is black, the value increases. In fact, not all pearls are white: the black ones (also known as Tahitian pearls) are very valuable. Actually they are not really black, but only darker in color, tending to gray. They are the fruits of the oyster Pinctada margaritifera (also called the Tahitian black pearl oyster), a mollusk that lives Indo-Pacific Ocean at the latitude of the Tropics.

Collana con perla di Tahiti e diamanti
Necklace with Tahitian pearl and diamonds

Black pearls are found in many shades, metal color, many shades of gray (who knows, maybe 50 …), but also green peacock (they are considered particularly valuable), or to purple, like eggplant, and brown dark. The color depends on the minerals that the clam has ingested contained in the plankton, the food of oysters. In the cultivation of pearls, however, they are using dye or irradiation to improve or change their color. But do not expect to identify them: it is difficult to pick a natural pearl from a treated. As for gems, pearls also have values ​​(and costs) different.

The name of these pearls is, of course, linked to the place where they are grown, ie mainly around the islands of French Polynesia, near Tahiti.

Yoko London, Aurora necklace
Yoko London, Aurora necklace

The value of pearls in jewelry is determined by a combination of brightness, color, size, lack of surface defects and symmetry. A perfectly round bead is considered more precious, while elongated drop-shaped pearls are often used in pendants. Another aspect to consider is the shine, which is an important element of differentiation of the quality of the pearl.

Anello della collezione Bubble con perle di Tahiti
Assael, ring from the Bubble collection with Tahitian pearls

So, how much are Tahitian black pearls worth? As we said, it really depends on the size and quality. Also, there are pearls out there that are simply colored black. A not too long necklace with a string of real black pearls can have a value ranging from a few hundred euros or dollars, if made up of smaller and lower quality ones, up to a few tens of thousands of euros/dollars if the pearls have a good sheen, are natural and have a regular spherical shape.

If you have jewels with pearls of this color, treat them with care: pearls are delicate and can deteriorate if not treated well. In any case, if you want to know how to clean jewels with pearls, we advise you to read the article we have already published and which explains in detail what you need to do to keep jewels with pearls clean, but without damaging them.

Collana di perle di Tahiti, oro giallo, lapislazzuli
Tahitian pearl necklace, yellow gold, lapis lazuli

How to distinguish a black Tahitian pearl from an imitation, fake? In fact, online there are extraordinary offers of jewelry with low price Tahitian pearls. These are most likely colored freshwater pearls. Unfortunately, from the images on the web it is not easy to distinguish real Tahitian pearls from imitations. Colored pearls, however, usually have a uniform hue, while real pearls tend to have color variations on the surface. Furthermore, often the color used to make the pearls black is concentrated more near the small hole where the thread that binds the pearls passes. Then, look with a loupe if the hole in the pearl looks darker than the rest.

Tahitian pearls are judged based on a strict classification. Here it is:

1 Shape: if is more round on a regular basis, plus the pearl is appreciated.

Perle nere
Black pearls

2 Size: bigger is better.

Necklace with Tahitian pearls
Necklace with Tahitian pearls

3 Surface: it is preferred that very smooth, with no flaws.

Collana con perle di Tahiti e chiusura in oro
Necklace with Tahitian pearls and gold clasp

4 Luster: if he shines the most valuable.

Anello con perla nera di Tahiti e diamanti
Ring with black Tahitian pearl with violet hue and diamonds

5 Nacre: more the pearl is thicker, it will last over time.

Anello in argento con perla tahitiana
Silver ring with Tahitian pearl

6 Color: the most popular colors are peacock green, or shades tending to blue, pink, gold, silver, purple eggplant.

Anello Dawn, in oro nero, diamanti, perle di Tahiti, granati e citrini
Dawn ring, in black gold, diamonds, Tahitian pearls, garnets and citrines

How to combine jewels with face and skin

How to match jewelry, skin color and face shape? Here are some tips ♦

The key to the success of each look is the combination. And this also applies to jewelry: they are not neutral accessories, but must be chosen based on the dress, the occasion, the shape of the face and also the color of the skin. In short, the choice must be considered following some simple principles, for example the shape of the oval and another aspect, which is underestimated by many, the correspondence between stones and metals and the tone of your face. It is not true that yellow gold is always good: in many cases it is white or pink gold that enhances your body more.

Bracciale e collana indossati
Giovanni Raspini, silver bracelet and necklace worn

How to discover your hue: just bring a sheet of white paper (which is really white, not ivory) close to the make-up face and look carefully in the mirror at the nuances that are reflected on the paper. If it is the white of the paper it becomes slightly pink, your face has a cold tinge, while if you see a shadow with a yellow accent, the shade is warmer. Obviously there are many nuances between the two extremes. Be careful, though: you have to do this experiment using natural light (no incandescent, neon or led lamps). Not only that: the natural light, that of the sun or the sky, must not be that of the morning at dawn or in the evening just before sunset, when the sun’s rays color nature with a particularly warm shade.

Prima regola: verificate il vero colore della vostra pelle
First rule: check the true color of your skin

Gold or silver: for leathers with a colder or neutral shade, it is better to choose silver, platinum or white gold. If, on the other hand, the hue is warmer, the yellow and pink gold will stand out more, but also the bronze, the golden brass and the copper. Of course, there are also skin colors that are somewhere in between: in this case what matters is balance. But, be careful: we must not exaggerate: those with very brown, olive skin must not cover themselves with yellow gold like a Christmas tree. In summary: the metal of the jewels should be chosen in harmony with the color of the skin: who has a very light shade can choose white metals, who has a Mediterranean or dark color, will appear better with metals that have more intense shades.

Metallo bianco e pelle chiara
White metal and light skin

Stones and complementary colors: the cool shades of the skin combine well especially with white pearls and diamonds. So no color? Don’t worry, you can also wear pink, blue, red and magenta stones. The warmer tones go well with coral and earth colors, therefore brown, green, peach yellow, orange and all shades of turquoise. Attention, these are general rules: the possible combinations are really many also because there are other aspects to be taken into account such as the combination of skin, eye and hair color. In addition, the shape of the face also counts for earrings and necklaces. Not to mention that a beautiful jewel can always be worn if you like, regardless of these aspects.

Gioielli di corallo rosa di Rajola indossati dalla modella Federica Calemme
Rajola pink coral jewelery worn by model Federica Calemme

Match the jewels to the shape of the face

Heart shape: if your face is round, with a thinner chin, that is, it has a heart shape, it is better to opt for not too large hanging earrings to avoid the effect of enlarging the face. A choker necklace, on the other hand, is the most suitable accessory to soften the tip of the chin.

Collana indossata di Evanueva
Evanueva necklace worn

Round or square face: oval or geometric pendant earrings, such as rectangles, can lengthen the lines of the face and offer a sweeter symmetry. For necklaces, it is preferable to choose long ones, also in this case to streamline the shape of the face, if it develops too wide.

Orecchini con diamanti e smeraldi di Chopard indossati da Julienne Moore
Chopard diamond and emerald earrings worn by Julienne Moore

Rectangular face: the lobe earrings can give an extra touch and soften the lines of the face, without creating an imbalance. Hoop earrings are also fine, especially if they are small. As for necklaces, if the neck is beautiful and long, a choker will be fine.

Orecchini punto luce indossati
Worn stud earrings

Oval face: the choice of earrings is quite intuitive: they must not be too long and it is even better if they have a geometric shape, which contrasts with the regularity of your face. You don’t need to sweeten it, but to add a breaking element. For necklaces you have ample freedom of choice, even if a long neck will be balanced with a choker.

Orecchini della collezione Eyes, indossati di Cora Sheibani
Earrings from the Eyes collection, worn by Cora Sheibani

Come vendere i vostri gioielli

Four tips before knocking at a jeweler’s door or trying to sell a jewel. It is not easy to conclude a good deal ♦

Is It A Good Time To Sell Jewelry? It depends. Wholesale diamond prices, for example, have dropped a lot compared to 2015. By contrast, the value of gold has returned to rise. But when you sell a jewel, the quality of the assembled stones comes into play, along with the design and the brand. A jewel of an established Maison takes the lead in evaluations, and for this reason many jewelers who easily accept necklaces, rings and bracelets that have the brand of famous jewelers. But if the stones used are of high quality, it is also possible for a jeweler to buy the jewel only to remove the precious stones to be fitted with a more modern design. But be careful: selling the grandma’s brilliant ring is not easy. At least: it is not easy to get a unique price. While gold has certain quotes, the diamonds have a number of aspects in the evaluation (How choose a Diamond)  that make it susceptible to different proposals regarding the price. Apart from this consideration, there are four aspects to consider.

Spilla con diamanti e perle
Brooch with diamonds and pearls

1. Think what you really have. Just because Grandma said his old diamond ring was precious (a gift from his beloved grandpa) does not mean that he really is. The sentimental value is one thing, the true is another. So, before running from the first jeweler, better to have a precise picture of its quality and genuineness. If it is a diamond of a certain size and weight, it is worth referring to a qualified expert who can give an impartial opinion of the characteristics and conditions of the stone. And also to highlight the positive attributes that could affect its value. But first get to know the cost of the exam: it must be worth it. Often a pawn shop offers a similar service.

Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds from around 1950

2. Get ready for a realistic price. Dreaming is beautiful, but we have to deal with reality. We said that the market is at a favorable time for the sale, but it depends very much on the type of stone mounted on the jewel. To get an idea, have a look at sales on eBay. Finally, before turning to a seller, think that you will buy only if you are convinced of a good deal, not for a favor.

Bracciale a forma di cigno bianco, con diamanti
White swan-shaped bracelet with diamonds

3. Consider selling options. Those who buy your jewel have two options: sell the piece to another industry or the public. Also consider taking the opportunity to contact a jewelery manufacturer: probably the price you can check will not be the best, but in return, the sale is very fast. But be careful to call on operators who have all legal permissions and a clear curriculum. Investigations on many gold shopping shops are showing that it is easy to come across dealers of dubious honesty. A brief survey on Google can be of help. By the way, there is also a site specializing in private online shopping (www.idonowidont.com). The mechanism offers a guarantee to seller and buyer (of course you pay a commission), but be careful: it is in English and there may be some customs problems.

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo e oro bianco
Ring with emerald cut diamond and white gold

4. Are you emotionally ready to sell? The hardest thing is not to come up with a good price, but be sure you want to sell a jewel that is usually part of your story as well. It tends to add an emotional value to a diamond on the engagement ring, and the disappointment on real market value can be a shock.

Anello in oro giallo con diamanti
Yellow gold ring with diamonds

5. Consider the auctions. If you have a jewel of a certain value, an interesting way is to propose it in an auction. In addition to the giants Sotheby’s and Christie’s, each country has auction houses that periodically organize auction sales. If the jewelry has an interesting shape, a price could be higher than that of a simple sale in jewelry. Federico Graglia

Un'asta condotta da David Bennett (Sotheby's)
An auction conducted by David Bennett (Sotheby’s)

How to choose an engagement ring

How to choose an engagement ring? We have asked several people, men and women.

Once upon a time, engagement rings were only made of yellow gold. It is the most traditional gold, the one that signals the value of the metal. Today, however, a yellow gold engagement ring has a slightly vintage feel, even if it always remains a classic. Someone prefers it this way, precisely because of its taste of a jewel from other times, but with a value that will remain intact for the future as well. In this case, however, it is better to choose a simple design, perhaps with a small diamond set.

Yellow gold. Once the engagement rings were made in yellow gold. It is the more traditional gold, which indicates that the value of the metal. Today, however, an engagement ring in yellow gold has a vintage feel. Some people prefer it so, just for its flavor jewel of other times. In this case , however, better to choose a simple design, perhaps with a small diamond.

Anello indossato della collezione Motion
Ring worn from PdPaola’s Motion collection

White gold. Beware: in reality there is the white gold. It is, you know, gold mixed with some metal without color, such as silver, nickel, manganese and/or (more rarely) palladium. Beware, then by those who proposed a ring in “pure white gold”. It is often coated with rhodium to give it a patina whiter and a brilliant finish. This type of ring after a few years it should be dipped again in a solution in order to maintain its white color and luster and replace the rhodium plating, otherwise it will return to the color of its main ingredient: yellow gold. It’s a hassle, but in reality the process is relatively inexpensive, and many jewelers offer this service for free.

Anello con diamante a taglio marquise
White gold ring with marquise cut diamond

Red and rose gold. The red gold is a alloy with copper. It’s not used traditional for engagement rings, less than complicated processes that combine white gold or yellow. An engagement ring in red gold, which is very fashionable for other types of jewelry, it is considered a bit too bling, inelegant. Of course, the design of the ring counts for a lot in the final judgment.

Anello doppio in oro rosa e diamanti indossato
Piaget, double ring in rose gold and diamonds worn

Platinum. This means that it has a natural white color, although slightly greyish. To be sold as a platinum ring should be composed of at least 90-95 per cent with this metal. Over time the color of the platinum does not tend to yellow, as for the white gold. But loses its glossy finish: some like it because that, by contrast, makes the diamond even more sparkling. Platinum, in any case, can be professionally polished to restore its original splendor, a process that is comparable in terms of cost of care for the white gold. In general, the color of white gold and platinum are similar, but not exactly the same thing: try to put a ring type on the same hand and you will see. White gold is more silvery, while platinum is more gray. The white diamonds beautifully complement them both, but beware: if your engagement ring is platinum, do not add a wedding band in white gold. Remain coordinated with the metal selected the first time is a better idea.

Anello in platino, morganite, diamanti
Platinum, morganite, diamond ring by Tomasz Donocik

The price. The biggest advantage of white gold than platinum is definitely the cost. Platinum is more expensive because it is more rare than gold. Every year there are only extracted 160 tons of platinum against 1,500 tons of gold. In addition, platinum is denser than the yellow metal: the same size ring will weigh significantly more platinum than gold (and precious metals are valued by weight). Broadly speaking, a gem in white gold costs about half an equivalent in platinum. So if you like the white and want to save, choose the gold.

Gioielleria Rocca a Bologna, ingresso
Rocca jewelry store in Bologna, entrance

Which gold to choose. Most of the engagement rings in gold are a 14 or 18 carat , usually marked with the initials 14k or 18k . The letter k means carat. The 14k gold is only 58.3 percent pure. The one on the 18k is 75 percent pure. The greater the amount karat, the purer the gold, but it is also less resistant. The gold in its purest form, in fact, is at 24k, but that state is too soft to use for jewelry complex: it deforms. Must be alloyed with other metals in order to harden and become resistant. To reinforce the gold is usually used in alloys nickel, but sometimes causes allergy. Platinum, however, is a strong metal, stronger and heavier than gold. Among other things, the platinum is more pure and is considered hypoallergenic. You can, however, also find white gold without nickel.

Mariah Carey con l'anello di alta gioielleria in oro bianco e diamanti. Photo: Koto Bolofo
Mariah Carey with the high jewelry ring in white gold and diamonds by Chopard. Photo: Koto Bolofo

Symbols. Gold historically indicates wealth, wisdom, and divine power. Remember the golden rules of the Bible? Or, the golden age or the golden years, which signify good times. And the 50th wedding anniversary is said to be one of the golden wedding. Gold is also considered by many as the traditional metal for wedding rings and engagement rings. Since it does not oxidize over time, helps to symbolize the pair of eternal harmony. Yet now it is platinum that seems to be the new symbol of wealth and prestige. Think of the “platinum credit card” which often has better benefits and privileges that the “credit card of gold.”  The choice is yours.

Anello con diamante a cuore indossato
Worn heart diamond ring

How narrows or widens a ring

You can tighten a ring, or enlarge it: read when and how you can do it ♦

What to do when the favorite ring has become too narrow or too wide? You can ask at the goldsmith to return the gold eliminated in this operation? Because the cost is so different between one ring and another? Here are six questions and six answers.

1 How do you enlarge a ring?

The goldsmith opens the circumference with a saw very thin. Then he picks up (if it has to tighten) or add a piece of metal similar to that of the ring. With pliers, joins the two pieces. At this point welding the ring and then proceeds with different polishing phase with brushes previously immersed in three different abrasive pastes, up to obtain the desired surface.

Anello da allargare
Ring to enlarge

2 It should be every time added another gold to enlarge a ring?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. If the ring has only need to widen up to less than a quarter of its original size and the metal is often, the jeweler may be able to modify your ring working on a mandrel and using the hammer to jeweler. But it is not likely to occur. Usually the ring is expanded with the addition of a small piece of gold or platinum. The ring is then welded again and polished.

Anello da stringere
Ring to tighten

3 How do you resize more little?

To resize a ring, a small section of the circular band is removed. Then the ring is shaped again and then welded. If there are stones on display, they must be tightened again in the griffe. There is a limit: if the stones can not be tightened there is the risk to falling out from the metal support.

Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili
Cazzaniga Nobili goldsmith workshop

4 You may retrieve the gold deleted when you resize a ring?

The amount of gold that is removed in the reduction process is usually so small that it wouldn’t make sense for a refund. Also, sometimes the ring must be polished and the gold is transformed into a fine powder which is sucked. The reduction of a ring requires a lot of skill: the milligrams of gold to the jeweler who remain, are largely discounted by the price of his labor.

Decisamente da stringere
Definitely to tighten

5 Why is it more expensive to widen or tighten some rings than others?

The cost of labor depends very much on the amount of work and by the size of the ring, on the weight and type of metal. To work the platinum is more expensive than gold, because it takes more heat and more attention. It is usually more expensive also work on rings with stones, that need special care. For example, only diamond, sapphire, ruby can withstand the heat of a welding flame. Other gems or should be removed from the ring, or require the use of a laser, because if they are heated, they burn and are hopelessly ruined. The more work and equipment needed for these rings raise the cost of the operation.

Controllate le misure della dita
Check your finger size

6 The size of the finger is different from store to store. Why?

Rings and fingers are measured with spindles. Between one and the other can be a different calibration and, therefore, may be a different measure of the circumference. The variation is usually between 1/4 and 1/2 of the size. In addition, the fingers can also change size depending on weather conditions (shaking with the cold, the heat swell), or due to the condition of health, or weight, and even the time of day.

What are rose cut diamonds?

The rose cut diamonds is back in fashion. But this type of cutting of the most famous stone in the world has pros and cons. Here is what you need to know before buying a jewel with a rose cut diamond. And, above all, learn about this ancient cut of the most precious and beloved stone. The first question is: what are rose-cut diamonds? If you have any doubts, know that this shape does not actually imitate the appearance of the flower.

Anello con cluster di diamanti rose-cut
Ring with rose-cut diamond cluster

How to recognize the rose cut. The rose cut is a type of diamond processing that was used in the past, in particular in the Georgian era, that is the period of the history of England that goes from the reign of George I to that of George IV, between 1714 and 1830 Rose cut diamonds are often confused with round or round cut diamonds, but the difference is notable. Rose-cut diamonds have a rounded top, but a flat base. The top of the stone features different triangular facets than brilliant cut diamonds. Brilliant cut diamonds have become popular since the late 1800s and manage to make the diamond appear much more sparkling thanks to 57-58 facets. Rose-cut diamonds, on the other hand, have a maximum of 24 facets. Brilliant cut diamonds have a pointed bottom that reflects more light. Rose-cut diamonds, on the other hand, can be brighter, albeit less sparkling.

Anello con diamanti per 15 carati
Sutra Jewels, 15 carat diamond ring, rose cut

The advantage. Rose-cut diamonds weigh less than brilliant-cut ones, as they are less thick (they don’t have a pointed underside). For this reason, for the same carats (i.e. the weight of a stone) they will have a larger surface. In short, they are larger for the same weight. A 1-carat brilliant-cut diamond measures 6.5 millimeters when viewed from above, while a rose-cut diamond of the same weight measures approximately 7.5 millimeters. Not only that: rose cut diamonds can have many different shapes: round, oval, pear, kite, hexagon, square, or they can also be cut into random and irregular shapes. In fact, we must not confuse the cut with the shape of the diamond, which refers to the outline of the stone (rectangular, round, pear-shaped). The cut, on the other hand, refers to aspects such as proportion, facets and polishing.

Anello di alta gioielleria con smeraldi per 6 carati, e diamante rose-cut al centro
High jewelry ring with 6 carats of emeralds and a rose-cut diamond in the center

The classification. Rose-cut diamonds follow the usual classification of other diamonds: the color ranges from D (completely colorless) to Z (brown or yellow shade). Since they sparkle less, rose-cut diamonds are also often used in more accentuated colors such as gray, champagne, dull white, black and yellow. Clarity is also classified as for other diamonds.

La differenza tra un taglio rosa e un taglio brillante
The difference between a pink cut and a brilliant cut

Is it worth buying a rose-cut diamond? Often rose-cut diamonds are offered as a rarity, or as a stylistic choice of the jeweler. It is undoubtedly an easier cut to make and, therefore, faster and less expensive. In India, the rose cut is part of tradition and is still widely used. There are other brands, such as 64Facets of New York that mainly use rose-cut diamonds. Before buying a jewel with rose cut diamonds, however, it is good to evaluate the aesthetic result. The best thing is to compare a jewel with rose cut diamonds to one with more modern cut stones, to see the difference with your own eyes.

Anello con diamante taglio brillante al centro e taglio rosa ai lati by 64Facets
Ring with brilliant cut diamond in the center and rose cut on the sides by 64Facets

Adjustable necklaces

Adjustable necklaces, necklaces with a knot, necklaces with the string: this is why to choose this type of jewel ♦

Almost always long and thin, sometimes very precious, necklaces of this type are back in fashion. But, in reality, has it ever been forgotten? In any case, it is good news for those who love sexy jewelry, as its shape highlights the contour of the body with a drape delicately resting on the décolleté. Adjustable necklaces have an obvious advantage: they adapt to the surface and size of the wearer’s body. Not only. An adjustable necklace also changes shape and can be worn in different ways depending on the clothing and circumstance.

Also read: how to choose the necklace

Collana Aria indossata
Nanis, Aria adjustable necklace worn

Of course, it depends on how it is worn because originally they were nothing more than a long thread of gold or pearls, more or less thick and broad, without any closure, to be turned several times around the neck, or to be knotted simply or with an adjustable clip to be placed at a strategic point. Like the vintage Cartier jewel, dated 1965, made with flat round links and a drop-shaped clasp, or the long double string of Chanel eighties beads.

Collana con pendente cone inserto in pelle
Necklace with pendant with leather insert by 12PM

You need to be careful when choosing the adjustable necklace. At the time of purchase it is best to check whether the mechanism that allows you to vary the length of the necklace is really efficient and, above all, does not appear to be too delicate: it would be disappointing to have to take the necklace to the jeweler to have the locking system repaired.
Collana indossata Magnetica System
Extendable Magnetica System necklace worn by Breil

Another important aspect is to use the adjustable necklace appropriately. A jewel of this type is interesting precisely because it adapts to the body and dress, but before choosing the length of the necklace, do several tests in front of the mirror, to establish what the right size really is: after all, you have chosen a jewel of this type precisely because of this.

Collana in diamanti e smeraldi, indossata a Baselworld
Jacob & Co diamond and emerald necklace, worn

The models of the past perfectly coexist next to the new millennium versions with revisited iconic logos and motifs, while one of the most luxurious places belongs to Bulgari with its famous snake in diamonds, turquoise emeralds, presented at the 2012 Biennale of Antiquarians. , shows how this type of necklace has never completely disappeared, but certainly now, especially overseas, it is a must have. Here is a selection of the most interesting pieces.

Collana in oro bianco e giallo con diamanti e smeraldi
Antonini, white and yellow gold necklace with diamonds and emeralds
Collana della collezione Zyp
Tirisi, necklace from the Zyp collection
Cartier, collier a forma di coccodrillo in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi
Cartier, crocodile-shaped necklace in white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Collana Marble Marquetry con diamanti e zaffiri
Harry Winston, Marble Marquetry necklace with diamonds and sapphires
Salvini, collana regolabile della collezione Daphne
Salvini, adjustable necklace from the Daphne collection
Autore, Best in Pearls con una collana di perle dei Mari del Sud
Autore,Best in Pearls with a necklace of South Sea pearls
Pendente con smeraldo colombiano del peso di circa 16 ct montato su collana in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti taglio brillante del peso totale di circa 6,10 carati. Lunghezza collana 44 cm (chiusura regolabile)
Pendant with Colombian emerald weighing approximately 16 ct mounted on an 18k white gold necklace with brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 6.10 carats in total. Necklace length 44 cm (adjustable closure)

Chains and gourmettes

Can you distinguish between different types of chains? Not all jewelry chains are created equal. Here’s how to choose a chain.

The most used chain for bracelets is the gourmette. But do you know what a gourmette is? Here’s what you need to know about one of the most used jewelry chains.

There is chain and chain: in love it is a feared and desired bond, in jewelry one of the most used forms for bracelets and necklaces. But beware: they are not all the same. One of the most used forms is the gourmette: for example, Pomellato, Roberto Coin and many others brands dedicated collections to this type of chain, but all jewelers have chains of this type in their catalog. The curb chain has an ancient origin. The most ancient example ever discovered of gourmette dates back to 2500 BC and was made with a technique called fox tail, which is still very current.

Gourmette e1565356458849
Gourmette or grumetta braided oval links often diamond-cut so as to lay them flat along the surface

But what is the characteristic of a gourmette? Compared to a normal chain, changes a little the shape. For gourmette, in fact, we mean a jewelery chain that has flattened rings with smooth sides. In some cases the surfaces can also be different: for example, on one side of the chain the metal can be shiny and smooth, on the other side more rough and opaque. But there is no precise rule.

Bracciale e anello in oro bianco e diamanti
Roberto Coin, bracelet and ring in white gold and diamonds

Often the chains have a small tag engraved with a name, usually that of the person wearing the jewel. In other cases, instead, a date is engraved, for example, that of birth. But the tag is not necessary for a wide chain bracelet or necklace. The gourmettes are often in silver or white gold. The most conspicuous yellow gold is less used (but much appreciated by rappers, for example). The curb chain is mainly used to make bracelets. But for some time there have been those who have decided that it can be worn very well as a necklace: this was also chosen in this case by many artists of the musical world.

Madonna con grande catena al collo
Madonna with large chain around her neck

How to choose a chain

Chains are not all the same. And not just because of their size or the style with which the different rings are made. Before buying a chain, pay attention to the quality of the jewel. The shirt must be soft, pleasant to wear. It must be as flexible as possible, without joints that get stuck if they need to be bent. Above all, a chain must not have protruding points that can attach to your dress (or perhaps to that of others). Some chains are designed to be combined with pendants: an idea that must also be comfortable once the bracelet or necklace is worn.

Gioielli a forma di catena della linea Fraleoni Rainbow
Chain-shaped jewelery from the Fraleoni Rainbow line

How to clean a chain?

Simple: like all the other jewels, that is with water, a couple of drops of liquid soap and a soft bristle toothbrush. Leave to soak in a bowl for about ten minutes and then rub with the toothbrush, then rinse. Be careful, however, that the chain is not plated or gilded with a galvanic bath. In this case there is a risk of damaging the surface: better to rinse the jewel without the risk of scratching it.

Gourmette di Cartier in or giallo
Gourmette by Cartier in yellow gold
Kim Kardashian con maxi catena
Kim Kardashian with maxi gourmette chain
Gourmette di Pomellato
Gourmette by Pomellato
Lily Collins contagiata dalla maxi catena mania
Lily Collins with the maxi chain mania
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