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Adjustable necklaces

Published on January 17, 2024

Collana Serpenti con ametista, smeraldi, turchesi e diamanti

Adjustable necklaces, necklaces with a knot, necklaces with the string: this is why to choose this type of jewel ♦

Almost always long and thin, sometimes very precious, necklaces of this type are back in fashion. But, in reality, has it ever been forgotten? In any case, it is good news for those who love sexy jewelry, as its shape highlights the contour of the body with a drape delicately resting on the décolleté. Adjustable necklaces have an obvious advantage: they adapt to the surface and size of the wearer’s body. Not only. An adjustable necklace also changes shape and can be worn in different ways depending on the clothing and circumstance.

Also read: how to choose the necklace

Collana Aria indossata — Nanis, Aria adjustable necklace worn

Of course, it depends on how it is worn because originally they were nothing more than a long thread of gold or pearls, more or less thick and broad, without any closure, to be turned several times around the neck, or to be knotted simply or with an adjustable clip to be placed at a strategic point. Like the vintage Cartier jewel, dated 1965, made with flat round links and a drop-shaped clasp, or the long double string of Chanel eighties beads.

Collana con pendente cone inserto in pelle — Necklace with pendant with leather insert by 12PM

You need to be careful when choosing the adjustable necklace. At the time of purchase it is best to check whether the mechanism that allows you to vary the length of the necklace is really efficient and, above all, does not appear to be too delicate: it would be disappointing to have to take the necklace to the jeweler to have the locking system repaired.

Collana indossata Magnetica System — Extendable Magnetica System necklace worn by Breil

Another important aspect is to use the adjustable necklace appropriately. A jewel of this type is interesting precisely because it adapts to the body and dress, but before choosing the length of the necklace, do several tests in front of the mirror, to establish what the right size really is: after all, you have chosen a jewel of this type precisely because of this.

Collana in diamanti e smeraldi, indossata a Baselworld — Jacob & Co diamond and emerald necklace, worn

The models of the past perfectly coexist next to the new millennium versions with revisited iconic logos and motifs, while one of the most luxurious places belongs to Bulgari with its famous snake in diamonds, turquoise emeralds, presented at the 2012 Biennale of Antiquarians. , shows how this type of necklace has never completely disappeared, but certainly now, especially overseas, it is a must have. Here is a selection of the most interesting pieces.

Collana in oro bianco e giallo con diamanti e smeraldi — Antonini, white and yellow gold necklace with diamonds and emeralds

Collana della collezione Zyp — Tirisi, necklace from the Zyp collection

Cartier, collier a forma di coccodrillo in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi — Cartier, crocodile-shaped necklace in white gold, diamonds and emeralds

Collana Marble Marquetry con diamanti e zaffiri — Harry Winston, Marble Marquetry necklace with diamonds and sapphires

Salvini, collana regolabile della collezione Daphne — Salvini, adjustable necklace from the Daphne collection

Autore, Best in Pearls con una collana di perle dei Mari del Sud — Autore,Best in Pearls with a necklace of South Sea pearls

Pendente con smeraldo colombiano del peso di circa 16 ct montato su collana in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti taglio brillante del peso totale di circa 6,10 carati. Lunghezza collana 44 cm (chiusura regolabile) — Pendant with Colombian emerald weighing approximately 16 ct mounted on an 18k white gold necklace with brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 6.10 carats in total. Necklace length 44 cm (adjustable closure)

Chains and gourmettes

Published on January 12, 2024

Campus

Can you distinguish between different types of chains? Not all jewelry chains are created equal. Here’s how to choose a chain.

The most used chain for bracelets is the gourmette. But do you know what a gourmette is? Here’s what you need to know about one of the most used jewelry chains.

There is chain and chain: in love it is a feared and desired bond, in jewelry one of the most used forms for bracelets and necklaces. But beware: they are not all the same. One of the most used forms is the gourmette: for example, Pomellato, Roberto Coin and many others brands dedicated collections to this type of chain, but all jewelers have chains of this type in their catalog. The curb chain has an ancient origin. The most ancient example ever discovered of gourmette dates back to 2500 BC and was made with a technique called fox tail, which is still very current.

Gourmette e1565356458849 — Gourmette or grumetta braided oval links often diamond-cut so as to lay them flat along the surface

But what is the characteristic of a gourmette? Compared to a normal chain, changes a little the shape. For gourmette, in fact, we mean a jewelery chain that has flattened rings with smooth sides. In some cases the surfaces can also be different: for example, on one side of the chain the metal can be shiny and smooth, on the other side more rough and opaque. But there is no precise rule.

Bracciale e anello in oro bianco e diamanti — Roberto Coin, bracelet and ring in white gold and diamonds

Often the chains have a small tag engraved with a name, usually that of the person wearing the jewel. In other cases, instead, a date is engraved, for example, that of birth. But the tag is not necessary for a wide chain bracelet or necklace. The gourmettes are often in silver or white gold. The most conspicuous yellow gold is less used (but much appreciated by rappers, for example). The curb chain is mainly used to make bracelets. But for some time there have been those who have decided that it can be worn very well as a necklace: this was also chosen in this case by many artists of the musical world.

Madonna con grande catena al collo — Madonna with large chain around her neck

How to choose a chain

Chains are not all the same. And not just because of their size or the style with which the different rings are made. Before buying a chain, pay attention to the quality of the jewel. The shirt must be soft, pleasant to wear. It must be as flexible as possible, without joints that get stuck if they need to be bent. Above all, a chain must not have protruding points that can attach to your dress (or perhaps to that of others). Some chains are designed to be combined with pendants: an idea that must also be comfortable once the bracelet or necklace is worn.

Gioielli a forma di catena della linea Fraleoni Rainbow — Chain-shaped jewelery from the Fraleoni Rainbow line

How to clean a chain?

Simple: like all the other jewels, that is with water, a couple of drops of liquid soap and a soft bristle toothbrush. Leave to soak in a bowl for about ten minutes and then rub with the toothbrush, then rinse. Be careful, however, that the chain is not plated or gilded with a galvanic bath. In this case there is a risk of damaging the surface: better to rinse the jewel without the risk of scratching it.

Gourmette di Cartier in or giallo — Gourmette by Cartier in yellow gold

Kim Kardashian con maxi catena — Kim Kardashian with maxi gourmette chain

Gourmette di Pomellato — Gourmette by Pomellato

Lily Collins contagiata dalla maxi catena mania — Lily Collins with the maxi chain mania

How to lengthen a necklace

Published on January 9, 2024

Campus

If the necklace is too short for you the only solution is to lengthen it. Yes, but how to lengthen a necklace? The simplest answer is: add other elements, for example pearls if it is a necklace of this type. But who ever has unused pearls at home? In short, lengthening a necklace is not a simple problem. There are, however, some not too complicated solutions that you can adopt to lengthen your necklace. You can try some yourself if you feel confident enough, or you can suggest them to your jeweler, who will do them for you. Here are some.

Collana di PdPaola — Necklace worn by PdPaola

1 Tie knots
If the necklace is too short and is made of pearls, a solution could be to knot the thread that runs along the necklace between one sphere and another. The knot, which must be small, will space the pearls a little apart. In this way the necklace lengthens, even if only slightly. Sometimes it is just what is enough to make the jewel more pleasant and, above all, suitable for your body size. Furthermore, a knot between one pearl and another also has an additional advantage: it makes the necklace more secure. If it breaks, the pearls will not be lost.

Collana e orecchini con cascata di perle indossati — Necklace and earrings with cascade of pearls worn

2 Add pearls
This tip is perfect for a pearl necklace, but it’s also good for other types of necklaces. It involves adding small cultured pearls, which have a very affordable cost, between one pearl and another. But pearls can also be added inside a chain by alternating gold and small white spheres.

Collana Jardin de Peggy in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce — Jardin de Peggy necklace in 14k gold and freshwater pearls by Sophie Bille Brahe

3 Golden Spheres
A solution similar to the one just described is the addition of gold spheres, which can lengthen practically any type of necklace. However, choose gold of the same color as the one already present, be it white, yellow or pink. You can opt for small grains not too different from a grain of rice, or light spheres (which are usually empty inside) of larger diameter: it depends on the type of necklace. The same remedy is obviously suitable for silver necklaces, but in this case you can choose elements of the same metal.

Collana con pietre colorate e croce — Necklace with colored stones and cross by Elena Braccini

4 A chain
If the necklace to be lengthened is made of precious or, more easily, semi-precious stones (for example, turquoise, lapis lazuli, tourmaline), you can add a small gold chain in the section of the jewel that is located on the back surface of the neck. In this way the necklace is significantly lengthened without losing the original aesthetic appearance.

Collana multicolor — Multicolor necklace by Coeur de Lion

5 More gems
If you have the financial means and the necklace is made up of stones, you can choose to add the same type of gems, although in many cases it will not be so easy to find the same shade of color. Or you can choose to alternate the existing gems with others of a different colour, playing on strong color combinations, such as green and red, or on nuances of the same shade, as in the case of yellow and orange, or blue and blue gems. Or, again, with enamel elements. A jeweler will easily be able to satisfy you: but ask for a quote first so as not to have any surprises on the final cost.

Collana con ametista — Necklace with amethysts of different sizes by Andrea Fohrman

All about garnet

Published on January 6, 2024

Campus

Garnet is one of the most used stones in jewelry. But can you distinguish it? Here’s what you need to know about the garnet, stone of the month of January, which actually brings together many different types ♦

It’s easy to say garnet. Actually this stone is classified in different ways and confused with other with the same color. It’s an old habit: in the past the only criteria to describe a stone was, in a generic way, the color. So all the red gems were recognized as rubies, from the Latin meaning of rubeus: red, in fact. No wonder, then, that for 700 years the central stone of the crown of England, 170 carats, has been called “the Black Prince’s Ruby,” despite being a magnificent spinel, which is not a garnet stone but it’s looks like. Even some varieties of garnet in the past have been mistakenly categorized as rubies. The matter is further complicated, however, because not only it has many colors such as purple, brown, orange, yellow and green, but it is often sold under the trade name and not the scientific one. So, nature abounds colored gemstones and yet it was not always easy to catalog them. How to distinguish and choose them? Here you have a little guide.

Pendente in oro giallo, con granati mandarino, diamanti e smalto — Yellow gold pendant, with mandarin garnets, diamonds and enamel

Rhodolite

It is a variety of garnet. From the geological point of view, the stone is made 55% of pyrope and 37% of the almandine. The garnet differs from ruby not only for its composition, but also how it behaves under the light: from a natural ruby emerge a double rainbow with various shades of red and blue, while the rhodolite is even more brilliant and alive, and will show only a rainbow with green and yellow. Caution: rhodolite can be synthesized in the laboratory, but it is one of the few stones to never be treated artificially. Its name derives from the greek rhodo (pink) and lithos (stone) and was coined by George Frederick Kunz for its resemblance to the flower color of the rhododendron mountain.

Color: compared to the other red garnets is slightly lighter and that’s why is confused with ruby, but has some hues of purple and purpura. No coincidence that the most popular colors are red-purple and raspberry discovery in 1987, the hue of the fruit.

Sources : was discovered in North Carolina, but the major deposits are in Sri Lanka, Tanzania, where in the Kangala region was identified the Raspberry variety and in the one pale purple in Umba valley, Zimbabwe and Brazil. From the Orissa Indian region and only from there comes the grape garnet with the same colour of a good amethyst.

Anello con rodolite e zaffiri blu — Ring with rhodolite and blue sapphires

Almandine garnet

The presence of metals such as manganese and calcium gives the garnet many colors, but when the component is predominant almandine, appearance is dark red, sometimes brownish. And this is the best known variety, with the name of the Mozambique garnet, named by the East African country of origin. Cited in Greek mythology, praised in the Jewish and Muslim tradition and used by the Vikings for the funeral ornaments, is rather hard and with a high refractive index. Sometimes is called Oriental Garnet.

Sources: Mozambique, India and Brazil.

Naomi Sarna, anello con granato almandino intagliato — Naomi Sarna, carved almandine garnet ring

Spessartite

The name comes from Spessart, Bavarian village where it was discovered the mid-nineteenth century. Initially little used in jewelry because it is very rare, after the discovery of another field in Namibia, its spread has grown tremendously, because it is the variety of garnet that has the highest refractive index after diamond. Feature that makes it one of the most versatile gems.

Colour: from manganese derives its characteristic orange primary color while the presence of iron gives the red shades and turns it to orange red, golden orange, orange yellow or dark red. The Mandarin Garnet is the most valuable variety of Spessartine, discovered in Kunene, Namibia.

Vhernier, spessartite al centro del collier Orange Velvet — Vhernier, Spessartite in the center of the Orange Velvet necklace

Sources: if the Spessart mine is now exhausted, Namibia continues to be the reference point along with Nigeria, while other deposits are in Australia, Brazil, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Tanzania and Zambia.

Tsavorite

It is the trade name of Garnet Grossularia Green, coined in 1974 by British geologist Campbell R. Bridges and Henry B. Platt, two consultants of Tiffany, in honor of the Tsavo National Park in Kenya, the place of discovery.

Selim Mouzannar, orecchini con tsavoriti, avorio, smalto, diamanti — Selim Mouzannar, earrings with tsavorite garnets, ivory, enamel, diamonds

Colour: owes its color to the presence of vanadium and chromium in small part, the same elements that give the emerald its colors. If a larger amount of vanadium accentuates the green Tsavorite, a yellowish tinge instead indicates the presence of iron. The green runs from vivid and clear to deep and velvety and, like all garnets, has a beautiful sheen, thanks to the high refractive index. Compared to emerald but has fewer inclusions and can also be flawless to the naked eye.

Sources: more rare emerald it has two major mining sites, the Scorpion mine near the Tsavo National Park in Kenya and the Merelani hills in Arusha region in Tanziana. And a small field in the province of Tulear in Madagascar.

Demantoid Garnet

A variety of Andradite Garnet, discovered in the Urals in 1849, has an exceptional brightness and its name was borrowed from German Demant because as diamond-like sparkle. Passion jeweler Carl Faberge, who just could it inserted in its creation and contributed to his legendary reputation, was coveted by many even by the head of Tiffany gemologist, George Frederick Kunz, who went to Russia with the aim to buy all specimens on the market. The Soviet revolution it blocked the mire and marketing, but many years later, in 1991, thanks to the filming of the activities mineriarie in the Urals and the discovery of other deposits in Namibia, came to the fore.

Una varietà verde della andradite, minerale che è uno delle più preziose varietà del granato Demantoide — A green variety of andradite, a mineral which is one of the most precious types of Demantoid garnet

Colour: depending on the amount of chromium and iron, varies from deep green to yellowish green to yellow or olive green. In practice, the greater the presence of iron is more yellow the stone. And although green forest is the reference tone, in the case of the Demantoid what really counts is the fire, that the variety and intensity of the play of colors when it reflects the light.

Sources: the Urals come specimens of intense green color with a peculiarity, the inclusions ponytail, that make them special, while the stones of Namibia are clearer and without inclusions.

Valuation: garnet is a type II gem, which may contain a few minor inclusions visible to the naked eye, which are tolerable if they compromise the beauty of the stone. However, there are examples impeccable in darker shades, whatever the color and smaller.

Anello con granato mandarino e zaffiri rosa — Ring with mandarin garnet and pink sapphires

Bracciale in oro bianco, diamanti e granato — Bracelet in white gold, diamonds and garnet

Pendente Demeter con granato mandarino e diamanti — Demeter pendant with mandarin garnet and diamonds

Anello in oro giallo con granato mandarino e smalto nero — Yellow gold ring with mandarin garnet and black enamel

Anello con tsavorite al centro, opale di fuoco, ametista, apatite, zaffiro — Ring with tsavorite in the center, fire opal, amethyst, apatite, sapphire

Anello con spessartite abochon di 32 carati, diamanti, zaffiri rosa, topazio imperiale, acquamarina, labradorite, andalusite — Ring with 32-carat cabochon famartite, diamonds, pink sapphires, imperial topaz, aquamarine, labradorite, andalusite

How to distinguish between real and synthetic diamond?

Published on January 3, 2024

Campus/Diamanti

Mr Big regala l'anello con diamante nero a Carrie Bradshaw in «Sex and the City»

Attention: the number of synthetic diamonds is increasing, which are now even produced by De Beers. Do you know how to recognize laboratory-created diamonds? The first thing to know is… ♦

How do you know if the diamond in your ring is synthetic? Is it possible to find out if a diamond is real or fake? The answer is: it depends. The difference is not visible to the naked eye, but only with sophisticated instruments. Naturally, a diamond is considered fake only if its origin is not declared. Synthetic diamonds, if they are officially declared as such, cannot be considered fake. Lastly, diamond giant De Beers has also entered the scene, producing synthetic diamonds with a laboratory in Great Britain for jewelery under the Lightbox brand.

Orecchini lab-grown di Lightbox — Lab-grown earrings by Lightbox

The misunderstanding between real and synthetic, however, is a problem for traders: in fact, in case of doubt, for large stones traders turn to gemological institutes. But if the certifications are dubious, large jewelers do not use smaller stones, under 1 carat, to avoid the risk of compromising their reputation. Alberto Osimo, diamond wholesaler and president of the Geci (Gemological Education Certification Institute) of one of the main gem laboratories in Italy, stated this some time ago: «Currently there is only one machine, the Diamond view, produced by Dtc, the Diamond trading company, able to carry out this analysis, which however takes ten minutes and is uneconomical in the case of diamonds of one hundredth of a carat. In fact, it is not convenient to certify and check a stone worth just a few euros when the procedure could cost up to 80 euros per piece.” However, other systems subsequently proposed to analyze diamonds also require long and expensive procedures.

By Ethereal Green Diamond, 34,59 ct. Photo: Johnny (Chak Wan) Leung — By Ethereal Green Diamond, 34,59 ct. Lab-grown diamond. Photo: Johnny (Chak Wan) Leung

A partial solution to the problem comes from another machine created by the Swiss institute Ssef and capable of analyzing even 4 thousand stones in a single hour. So everything is fine? In part: the device only identifies the molecular structure of the object, i.e. it divides them according to type. And, fortunately, only one of these categories is artificially replicable. In short: a synthetic diamond can only be identified with expensive machines and complicated procedures.

Expertise in un laboratorio Tiffany — Expertise in a Tiffany laboratory

But it’s not just synthetic diamonds. Alongside the natural diamond, there are laboratory-created stones on the market, such as cubic zirconia and synthetic moissanite. Which are certified and sold as extremely cheaper alternatives to diamonds which are the result of the thousand-year-old work of the earth.

So, how do you know if your diamond is real or fake?

1 A real diamond is certified. Therefore, a diamond jewel must also have the certificate attesting its purity, color and carats.

2 You can purchase a device to test yourself. A device such as the Professional Diamond Selector I. It is a probe or thermal conductivity meter and can be found on sale on Amazon for a few dollars, serves to distinguish real diamonds from other simulated stones. For example, it finds out whether the stone is, in fact, a crystal or a cubic zirconia. However, he will not be able to find out if the diamond was created in a laboratory.

3 Other tests that you can do at home: drop the diamond into a glass full of water (but this presupposes that it is separated from the jewel). If the gemstone sinks it is a real diamond. If it floats on the surface of the water or just below it, it is false.

4 Breath test: fog the diamond with your breath, as if cleaning the lenses of your glasses. If the water vapor dissolves immediately from the surface, the diamond is more likely to be authentic. Needless to say, it’s a very crude method…

5 Take a magnifying glass. If you see the tiny abbreviation CZ on the stone it means that it is cubic zirconia.

6 A test for strong hearts: heat your diamond on a flame for 40 seconds. Then throw it in a glass of cold water: if it’s real it won’t break. But if it’s a crystal… We don’t recommend it, if you want to try it’s your risk.

Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti in laboratorio — Control of CVD plasma reactor producing diamonds in De Beers laboratory

The jewels suitable for New Year’s Eve

Published on December 30, 2023

Campus

What to wear for the evening of the last day of the year? Here are jewelry ideas that you will find in some cases at the last minute.

You’ve found the shoes and the dress, to decide what to wear on New Year’s Eve, all that’s missing is the jewelry. But be careful, if you like celebrating the last day of the year so much, you should know that the date is not the same everywhere in the world. If in most Western countries and Japan the last day of the year is December 31, in other parts of the world this date falls on completely different days. Some examples: for certain Orthodox Churches and Eastern Catholic Churches, the beginning of the year (for religious ceremonies) is celebrated on the day corresponding to Gregorian January 14.

Collana di perle by Coscia — Pearl necklace by Coscia

Chinese New Year is celebrated in correspondence with the new moon which falls between January 21 and February 20 (in 2023, for example, it is Sunday January 22). The Islamic New Year, on the contrary, corresponds, compared to the Gregorian calendar, to approximately one month late every three years. So if you want, you can celebrate them all…

Pandora, gioielli della collezione Moments indossati — Pandora, jewels from the Moments collection worn

In short, the most important night of the year, how to choose jewelry? A flashy and colorful necklace will help reinvent a little black dress or a dress already worn before. Or lace, stars, moons on gold and silver, embellished with diamonds or zircons make any look sparkling. If, on the other hand, it is the dress that is flashy, button earrings, a sterling silver bracelet or long thin gold necklaces will give the perfect finishing touch. In short, the important thing is that they shine to celebrate until the early hours of the New Year, but also that they are in balance with the dress.

Madalina Ghenea con una collier della colelzione Vulcania, alta gioielleria Damiani — Madalina Ghenea with a necklace from the Vulcania collection, Damiani high jewelry

There are certainly three guide colors for the night of December 31: black, white and red. For a party that starts strictly after 9 p.m., a black dress is perfect. And with a dark color the ideal is to prefer the classic: the red of rubies, or of a stone of the same shade (there are also cheap ones) and the sparkling white of diamonds or, if in the drawer you Don’t have any such as precious jewelry, white silver or synthetic stones, like cubic zirconia. They just need to shine to the toast.

Collezione Amuleti by Nanis — Amulets Collection by Nanis

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti di Leo Pizzo — Ring in white gold and diamonds by Leo Pizzo

Anello e bracciale di Giselle Effting — Ring and bracelet by Giselle Effting

Jewels and amulets

Published on December 29, 2023

Campus

Amuleto a forma di corno in corallo e pietre semi preziose

The jewels in the shape of an amulet or talisman. But you can wear them even if you are not superstitious ♦

Did our primitive ancestors first make jewelry as an ornament, or as talismans and amulets? The answer will never be known. Certainly, however, the superstitious function of jewels is evidenced by archaeological findings. But this capacity is also reaffirmed, a few thousand years later, by those who think they will be lucky if they wear a necklace pendant that has an eye-shaped shape.

Pendente-talismano di de Beers, in oro bianco e diamanti — Talisman-pendant by de Beers, in white gold and diamonds

Because, in fact, magical jewels, which should avoid unfortunate events or, on the contrary, favor a good fortune, are still bought. Talisman jewels often have the shape of symbols, to which is attributed a value and a magical power of help and propitiation or protection. At the same time, the particular shape of a pendant should (for those who are convinced of it) propitiate lucky events, such as winning the lottery or winning love.

Collana talismano — Talisman necklace by Kristen Malan

The difference. By the way, it is better to clarify the difference: usually talismans are equated with amulets. In reality they are objects created with two different functions. The amulets have (for those who believe in it) the ability to remove or cancel a magical evil influence. Talismans, instead, are objects that have the ability to make something positive happen. In short, an amulet should prevent negativity, while a talisman propitiate a positivity.

talismano in cristallo di rocca e smalto Wartski 1 — Wartski, carved rock crystal and enamel hand-shaped talisman

Talismans and amulets are objects that even today’s jewelers like, often offering jewels that have the function of an amulet or talisman as well as an ornament to wear. In fact, nothing prevents you from wearing a necklace or ring with superstitious symbols even if you don’t believe in those ancient superstitions. Here are some.

Eye of Allah. In Turkish it is called Nazar Bonjuk, while in English it is Evil Eye. It is one of the most famous amulets against the evil eye. It is widely used for bracelets, earrings and necklaces. Once upon a time, children were attached to their clothes with a safety pin. It is one of the most used symbols by jewelers.

Occhio anti malocchio, con smalto e diamanti. Prezzo: 6800 dollari — Aaron Basha, hex eye, with enamel and diamonds

Hand of Fatima or Miriam. Also called Hamsa (which means five in the Arabic language) or Khamsa, it is an amulet shaped like a palm of a hand popular throughout the Middle East and North Africa, but now widespread also in the West, often used also to make jewelry or hang at home as good luck. For the Jews it is the hand of Miriam.

Anello con ciondolo mano di Fatima — Swarovski, ring with hand of Fatima pendant

Horn. It is a widespread amulet in Italy, especially in the South, as a lucky charm. Made in coral, often with the addition of diamonds, it was also used as a model by the great Maison of jewelry.

Skull. According to the different cultures, the symbol of the skull serves to inspire fear, remove the danger of death or protect it from danger.

Anello della collezione Flora con teschio, oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri — Gucci, ring from the Flora collection with skull, white gold, diamonds and sapphires

Crucifix. For those who follow the Christian religion it is the most important spiritual symbol. But even if some wear it to witness their belonging to the cult, others consider it an object capable of giving protection to the person. In short, a symbol with magical powers.

Croce scomponibile Belle Epoque — Damiani, Belle Epoque decomposable cross

Zodiac signs. Libra, Leo, Sagittarius … Whoever wears the symbols of his zodiac sign not only wants to communicate his belonging to a certain period of the year, but he also expects a beneficial power.

David Yurman, pinky ring in oro con iniziali o segno zodiacale — David Yurman, gold pinky ring with initials or zodiac sign

Amuleto con giada nera, bronzo e laccio in pelle — Black Jade, Bronze, and Leather Cord Amulet by Lisa Eisner

Ciondolo amuleto con cristallo di rocca intagliato e diamanti — Temple St. Clair amulet pendant with carved rock crystal and diamonds

Bracciale in oro rosa con smeraldi e quarzo al centro — Rose gold bracelet with emeralds and quartz in the centre

Bracciale in cuoio con mano di Fatima in oro e zaffiri — Pippo Perez, leather bracelet with hand of Fatima in gold and pink sapphires

Thomas Sabo, mano di Fatima in oro rosa 18 carati e zircone — Thomas Sabo, hand of Fatima in 18k rose gold and cubic zirconia

Rivière jewelery guide

Published on December 26, 2023

Campus

Rivière and Triple X: Two terms that are sometimes used in jewelery. You want to know what Rivière and Triple X mean? Read here ♦

Some time ago, in New York, in a Bonhams auction, a 51 diamond rivière necklace, rated triple X-cut, was sold for $ 1.2 million. It was been the jewel that has reached the highest price. Each diamond of the necklace was accompanied by a certificate from the Gemological Institute of America. The diamonds in question weigh over 70 carats: in the necklace are joined by a 2.04-carat heart-shaped clip. The stones are mounted in platinum. But do you know what the rivière and triple X definitions mean?

Collana rivière di diamanti di metà XIX secolo — Mid-19th century diamond rivière necklace

Rivière. The term rivière derives from the French word that means river. In jewelry, it indicates a row of stones that are the same size or scale, that is, from larger to gradually smaller. It is also a way to make the most of the stones of different sizes and order them in a geometric pattern. It is a set often used for diamond necklaces, more rarely with other stones. Very fashionable in England during the Georgian period, rivière style necklaces are still popular today.

Collana rivière in stile art déco in oro bianco, tormalina, malachite, onice e diamanti — Boucheron, art deco rivière necklace in white gold, tourmaline, malachite, onyx and diamonds

Rivière necklaces are usually designed without ornaments, to enhance the stones used. But in some cases these necklaces hide a small ring that allow you to add a pendant. There is also a practical reason when it comes to necklaces with stones of different sizes: enhancing the larger ones, placing them on the front of the necklace, makes the jewel more slender. The perspective effect of the stones that become smaller when they approach the nape of the neck also makes the necklace more slender. Finally, it is difficult for a jeweler to have so many stones of the same size and quality. This solves the problem.

Nicole Kidman con una collana rivière in un'immagine di qualche anno fa — Nicole Kidman with a rivière necklace in an image from a few years ago

Triple X. Also known as Triple Ex, it is an informal denomination, mostly in the commerce sector, which means a diamond that has excellent chiselling, symmetry and cutting. The definition is only intended for brilliant cutting diamonds.

Tripla X. Conosciuta anche come «Triple Ex», è una denominazione informale, per lo più nel settore del commercio, che significa un diamante che ha ottima cesellatura, simmetria e taglio. La definizione è destinata solo ai diamanti taglio brillante.

La collana rivière appartenuta a Zsa Zsa Gabor. Stima: 1,2-1,5 milioni di dollari — The rivière necklace that belonged to Zsa Zsa Gabor

Bonhams Riviere necklace — The rivière necklace sold at Bonham’s for $1.2 million

Collana rivière a tre fili — hree-strand rivière necklace

collana cartier — Rivière necklace by Cartier. Sold for $2.8 million

Holydays in red with coral

Published on December 25, 2023

Campus

Orecchini con tormalina bicolor e corallo

What jewels to wear for holidays? Red is the color of winter holidays and is also the color of coral, which can give an extra touch of liveliness ♦

Winter holidays are colored red, like coral. For this reason, jewels with this material can be an excellent choice to wear for the winter holidays, together with gold and the green color. In fact, shades of red generally go well with an elegant dress and are in line with the Christmas atmosphere. Another advantage is that red coral jewelry is quite easy to find. But be careful: choose those that can prove to be sustainable from an environmental point of view. Many jewelers, who have understood that they cannot risk compromising coral colonies already put to the test by rising temperatures, can show certificates proving the sustainable origin of the coral used for the jewellery.

Anello in oro con corallo rosso e diamanti — Ciaravolo, gold ring with red coral and diamonds

Furthermore, if you have jewels like the ones we publish on this page, be careful not to ruin them. Coral is a natural material, beautiful but also delicate. Coral jewelery must be treated with great care. Coral, like pearls, is a product of animal origin (it is composed of micro organisms) and is not a gemstone or mineral. The tiny corals live in the sea and over the years form calcareous skeletons. This is why you need to be careful. Here you will find the right suggestions to best preserve coral.

Anello con corallo rosso e tsavoriti — Alex Ball, ring with red coral and tsavorites

How to clean coral. It should be cleaned with a soft damp cloth and rinsed with warm soapy water, then dried carefully. But it should not be placed in an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner, nor subjected to a bath in water. If the jewel is dusty, you can also remove the dust using a can of compressed air, of the kind used to clean the inside of computers.

Sautoir di corallo rosso e diamanti — Chantecler, red coral and diamond sautoir

Anello della collezione Riviera in oro bianco, diamanti, corallo — Avakian, ring from the Riviera collection in white gold, diamonds, coral

Orecchini in corallo rosso Cavolfiore — Cassandra Goad, red coral and gold Cauliflower earrings

Bracciale con corallo intrecciato — Eredi Jovon, bracelet with woven coral

Bracciale in argento 925 con sfere in pietra naturale e corallo mediterraneo. Prezzo: 63,35 euro — Salvatore Collaro, 925 silver bracelet with natural stone and Mediterranean coral spheres

4 things to know before giving away a jewel

Published on December 22, 2023

Campus

Four tips from an expert for those who want to give a jewel. Read and above all, do not forget them ♦

How to choose a jewel as a gift? A question that creates some concern. Help arrives from Angelina Chen, head of online sales of Christie’s Jewellery, which published some considerations and four tips. Better to read them and follow them. Better to read and follow them. and if you want to know even more, you can read What to give a woman? and, in particular, how to decide which ring to give. Because jewels cost money and often also become an investment: before purchasing them, therefore, you need to choose them carefully. So, if you intend to give a jewel as a gift, read these tips first.

1 Find the color. According to Angelina Chen, a good idea is to observe which are the favorite colors of the clothes of the person who will receive the gift, the clothes she wears most often. A suggestion, therefore, is to look for a jewel that has that color as its hue. For example, for those who love blue you can choose sapphires, but also simple turquoise, those who love green can opt for emeralds, tsavorites or tourmalines of that shade. When in doubt, there is always the color that is always in fashion: that of white diamonds, that is, colorless.

2 Choose the style. There are those who love modern style and jewelry with a contemporary design and those who prefer traditional shapes: the classic solitaire ring, the necklace with a string of pearls, a simple gold bracelet. So, before choosing, take a good look at the aesthetic inclinations of those who will receive your gift: are you a conservative and traditionalist woman in terms of clothes, or do you change often to stay on the wave of fashion? In any case, the precious jewels, created by a great brand, survive historical eras and fashions and therefore are a little safer. With a less expensive jewel, however, you cannot go wrong: it must be consistent with the style of the jewelry and clothes worn.

3 Beware of collections. There are women who love a kind of jewel and want to wear it always, with small variations. For example, a white gold ring with a diamond, or a simple earring made of the same materials. But also different pieces of the same collection: for example, you can give a ring and, if the jewel has been really appreciated (you have to be sure), you can continue with a bracelet or a necklace from the same collection. If a woman has a certain number of similar jewels in her drawer, she is likely not to disdain to receive another one, obviously with some variations on the theme.

4 Look for the missing pieces. A brilliant idea (in the true sense of the word) is to integrate a series of jewels with the missing piece. For example, someone with a lot of white gold jewelry might want a rose gold piece to add to their collection. Those who have a lot of earrings probably want to increase the number of rings, and so on. The same goes for jewels of the same series of the same brand.

How to behave in a jewelry store

Published on December 20, 2023

Campus

L'interno della boutique di Van Cleef & Arpels

Do you want to buy a jewel? Know that jewelers judge your behavior and may be more or less available. Here’s what not to do when you enter a jewelery store ♦

What a jeweler thinks of you when you go into his store? You must know it: it’s important. Often between customer and jeweler there is a relationship that lasts for years: the engagement ring, the watch as a gift, the necklace for wedding anniversary… But, as with all businesses, even a good relationship may fall apart. A jewelry salesman does his job, and you have to do yours. So, you must remind what the jeweler wants from you. These six points summarize what is expected from you.

La boutique Repossi, a Parigi — The Repossi boutique, in Paris

1 Even if the jeweler has a friendly relationship with you, do not forget it’s anyway a commercial activity. At the end of the day the jeweler look at what he earned. So, do not take the jeweler for a consultant or expert to consult casually. Many, for example, get into a store to ask for a value on a jewel that, maybe, they want to sell. It is not an attitude pleasing to the jeweler, unless he sold you that piece. Bring into the store a ring or a necklace purchased elsewhere may be fine once, if you are regular customers, but no more. Probably your jeweler has a same item you are asking to evaluate: showing a competitor’s product may irritate him.

Non sottovalutate l'esperienza — Don’t underestimate the experience

2 The jeweler seeks to identify customer’s financial resources and on this basis propose rings, necklaces or earrings that can satisfy the needs. If he is a good professional, he’ll be able to offer a good price too. In return, however, he expects loyalty from the customer. It may be benefit for both parties.

L'interno di Harry Winston, a New York — The interior of Harry Winston, New York

3 Certainly, those who buy a jewel is not a jeweler or a gemologist. But jewelers are bothered by the complete ignorance on the subject. They will be ready to explain the characteristics of an object that you like and why its price. In return they expect the customer to understand why a piece of jewelry is more expensive than another, or more simple differences between different diamonds (of course, reading here helps you ). Then, if the client has some knowledge of basic the jeweler is more positive and, perhaps, more flexible about the price.

4 Regarding the price: when you look at a price tag, keep in mind how much it costs to set a warehouse, buy gold, precious stones, conceive original jewelry, charge the craftsmen for manufacturing. Manage a jewelry store, especially small ones, is a substantial investment in terms of capital equipment, that it is there in the form of rings and necklaces. The jeweler expects you to realize that keeping a store of precious is not how to run a bakery.

5 Before getting into a jewelry store is good to be clear how much you are willing to spend. An uncertain idea about financial resources makes difficult for the jeweler, determine what is the most suitable product for you. In any case, aimless expect high quality jewelry on a budget too low.

6 The jewels are delicate and wear and tear. Necklaces, rings and bracelets needs regular maintenance and cleaning. Most jewelers cleans what you bought in their store for free. Others even offer a warranty on their products. But you must not believe that the jewels can last forever. It is not said. Household chores or every day life can ruin your jewels. And even a diamond, in certain conditions, may deteriorate. Do not blame your jeweler.

Gioielleria a Shanghai — Jewelry store in Shanghai

What jewelry to wear at Christmas

Published on December 18, 2023

Campus

18k Pink Gold Snowman Pendant with Australian South Sea Pearl, Ruby & White Diamond by Estee

Which jewels to wear on Christmas Day or on Christmas Eve? Here are 5 things to know. The first is … ♦ ︎

Jewels for Christmas. Jewels for the day after Christmas. Jewels for the day before Christmas. And then comes the last day of the year, to celebrate possibly with new jewels. What to wear during the flurry of days in which there are dinners, toasts, meetings with relatives and friends, not counting the opportunities related to their work in the company, office, professional studio?

Collana con perle by Coscia — Pearl necklace by Coscia

1 The three colors of the parties

No surprise: the colors of winter festivals are red, gold and silver. The important thing is that they shine: no fogged silver, the gold is better yellow or white. And red is not must be just a ruby or coral: there are fun and much cheaper jewels that fit well.

Nanis, collezione Dancing in the Rain — Nanis, Dancing in the Rain collection

2 You are not the tree

The risk is to exaggerate. Taken from the euphoria of the holiday period, there are women who exaggerate and decorate themselves like the Christmas fir tree, but without lights flashing. The advice, in these cases, is always the same: better a single jewel of quality, that stands out, that many, small and cheap. At least for holidays you can wear those jewels that, perhaps, during the rest of the year are considered too important.

Uno special piece di Ole Lynggaard: choker Shooting Stars in oro giallo e rosa 18 carati — A special piece by Ole Lynggaard: Shooting Stars choker in 18k yellow and rose gold

3 Christmas lunch

The jewels are not only designed to be worn in the evening: even in the middle of the day they are pleasant to observe. But, of course, you do not need a diamond necklace to sit down at the table with your family members: gold earrings, or a simple and elegant necklace are enough.

Roberto Coin, Rosemin Manji indossa la collezione Sauvage Privé — Roberto Coin, Rosemin Manji wear the Sauvage Privé collection

4 The eve dinner

For the Christmas Eve, a dark-colored dress is often worn. In this case, yellow or white gold, but also a silver jewel as long as bright and design, is fine. If, on the other hand, you have chosen a more lively dress, perhaps on red, choose not too large earrings and opt for a generously sized or particularly colored ring. In particular, if the atmosphere is more like a party than a dinner for a few close friends, you can opt for a cocktail ring, possibly with a predominant red hue.

Tamara Comolli, anello della collezione Curriculum Vitae, oro rosa 18 carati, 12 diamanti bianchi — Tamara Comolli, ring from the Curriculum Vitae collection, 18k rose gold, 12 white diamonds

5 Toast with jewels

During the Christmas season there are not only family dinners, but also toast with friends or work colleagues. In this case it is not necessary to show off the most precious jewels. On the contrary, it is advisable to exaggerate: you could arouse envy, a negative and dangerous feeling, or be out of tune with the rest of the company. So, for these occasions, the jewels must be carefully considered: the right way between jewels and expensive pieces is better.

Collezione Tiffany T — Tiffany T Collection

Collana indossata di Evanueva — Necklace worn by Evanueva

Girocollo con smeraldi e diamanti, indossato — Choker with emeralds and diamonds, worn. Courtesy Bulgari

Collezione Venezia di Leo Pizzo, indossato — Venice collection by Leo Pizzo, worn

Gioielli per Natale Pandora — Jewelry for Christmas Pandora

What are bridge jewelry?

Published on December 11, 2023

Campus

Do you know what bridge jewelry is? This name has been used to indicate a large part of jewelry. If you don’t know what bridge jewels are, then, here’s an opportunity to learn it.

Bracciale fiorito Pandora Garden — Pandora Garden Blumenarmband

Of course, as with all categories, there are nuances. In some cases there are jewels that can be defined differently, a bit like hair color: there are those who are not blonde or even brunette, but somewhere in between. But this does not mean that jewels have long been divided into categories: high jewelery, jewelery, bridge, fashion, to which is added costume jewelery. As it is clear following this cataloging, jewels defined as bridges are halfway between high-end ones and those much more related to fashion.

Collana con pendente ad anelli — Necklace with ring pendant by Morellato

The jewels defined as bridge, in short, is a category that bridges the gap between low-end costume jewelery and high-end jewelery. Bridge jewelry is made with metal such as silver, 9 karat gold, vermeil (gold plated silver). They can be enriched with crystals or with the least expensive semi precious stones or even with synthetic stones and small cultured pearls. In large part this type of jewel is very popular and is represented by major brands, such as Pandora, Thomas Sabo or Morellato, but also individual Maison such as Monica Vinader, Giovanni Raspini or John Hardy, to name a few. And, of course, there are also small artisans who offer bridge jewels.

Cara Delevigne con bracciale di Monica Vinader — Cara Delevingne with Monica Vinader bracelet

According to a survey conducted a few years ago of about 120 jewelers in the United States, the percentage of bridge jewelry in overall sales has remained the same or has increased over time. Nearly half (48%) of jewelers said their bridge jewelry sales have remained pretty much the same as the percentage of overall sales in recent years, while another 43% said they have increased.

Bracciale in argento con acquamarina e cianite, catena soft flex — John Hardy, silver bracelet with aquamarine and kyanite, soft flex chain

Why have bridge-type jewels been successful? The factors that convinced the buyers are two: the very low price, also because it is not particularly sensitive to fluctuations in gold prices, and a design that in many cases has nothing to envy to that of more expensive jewelry. In any case, there are also notable differences between bridge jewels.

Orecchini piccoli della collezione Nautilus — Small earrings from the Nautilus collection by Giovanni Raspini

Because every ring finger has a meaning

Published on December 8, 2023

Campus

What does wearing the ring on the index mean? Or on the thumb, the little finger, the middle finger?

When you wear a ring, you must know that every finger you have chosen has a precise meaning, a symbol or a story to know. Because it is not the same thing to wear a ring on the index finger, middle or little finger. But few women reflect on the fact that each finger also carries a symbolic meaning or a tradition. And that to match a ring to the finger we have to take into account what that phalanx of the hand represents and also what kind of ring we have chosen.

The little finger
The smallest finger, the little finger, is back in fashion after long oblivion. On this finger noble or chevalier rings are very often worn. These rings were also used in the Middle Ages as a seal for the lacquer wax with which the correspondence was protected. The chevalier ring then became a simple jewel on which appears the coat of arms of the family: it is still worn with this function, for example by Prince Charles. Finally, the chevalier model has turned into a simple ring with a more or less flat surface, with or without decoration design. A ring on the little finger usually attracts attention.
Recommended ring: chevalier

Also read: On which finger to wear the ring

The ring finger
It is the most used finger for the rings, precisely because it has the engagement ring or the wedding ring (or both together). This type of ring is worn on the fourth finger of the left hand, although in some countries the right is used, for example in Poland. There are also those who think that it’s unlucky to wear a ring on this finger before being engaged. But most women do not give much importance to this belief.
Recommended ring: wedding ring, solitaire, trilogy, eternity

The middle finger
The middle finger is a very popular finger for those who wear a ring. The main reason is that the finger to the side is already occupied with the wedding or engagement ring, while the index finger is less used for jewelry. The middle finger, on the other hand, is perfect: it is at the center of the hand, the most visible, it is not as busy as the index finger, it is longer, but it is not wider. Perfect for large and imaginative, colorful, very visible rings. It is certainly one of the fingers on which to insert the multiple rings, which include more than one finger.
Recommended ring: cocktail, semi-precious stones, stacked rings

The index finger
It’s a challenging finger. Who wears a ring on the index finger shows a certain anti-conformism, the desire to mark one’s own personality and to show oneself. This is the finger that is used to show something to someone, or to indicate a road, a landscape, and even the divine will when it is placed towards the sky, but it also works to grasp something very small. In short, it is a finger apparently not very suitable for wearing rings and, for this reason, it is the most suitable to be noticed. But better to wear a type that is not annoying during the day.
Recommended ring: thin metal rings in gold or silver, different types of rings

Thumb
According to some interpretations it is the finger that symbolizes strength, power, will. It is, in effect, the finger with greater muscular energy. The thumb ring was used in ancient Rome, perhaps linked to particular cults of sea gods. But in the modern era wearing a thumb ring, usually in silver, was considered a sign of homosexuality for men, and of independence for women. Today, however, this symbology is outdated and wearing a thumb ring simply means that you have purchased a very large jewel, not easy to put on and take off, maybe even a little annoying if you have to use your hands. But if you like it, it’s fine.
Recommended ring: thin, in gold or silver, without stones

L'anello con acquamarina indossato da Merghan Markle — L’anello con acquamarina indossato da Merghan Markle

Anello della collezione Gaïa indossato — Anello della collezione Gaïa di de Grisogono

Collezione Hoopla indossato — Annoushka, collezione Hoopla indossato

Be careful of the prices of laboratory diamonds

Published on December 5, 2023

Campus

L'attrice Rosario Dawson con i gioielli Pandora Brilliance, con diamanti di laboratorio, lanciati nell'agosto 2022 in Usa e Canada

Why are the sales of artificial diamond jewelery created in the laboratory increasing? Those who love diamonds must take into account a trend that is becoming more and more popular: that of gems produced artificially, in laboratories. Research firm Brainy Insights recently estimated that the $10.8 billion lab-grown diamond market will reach $20.6 billion by 2032. Lab-grown diamonds are increasingly seen as a more attractive option. affordable compared to jewelry made with naturally mined diamonds. And more and more brands, from Pandora to De Beers, offer jewelery with laboratory-grown diamonds, now available in a wide range of sizes and shapes. And at an affordable price. So lab-grown diamond manufacturers are working with several jewelry companies and designers, particularly in Europe, to produce distinctive, fashionable and exclusive jewelry.

Bracciale tennis in oro bianco e diamanti di laboratorio — Tennis bracelet in white gold and laboratory diamonds by V Rai

Also according to the Bloomberg news agency, artificial stones, created in laboratories, are a growing market. Simply put, most artificial diamonds are made by two different methods: with carbon treated in a special microwave and strong overheating, which turns into a plasma ball, or strong compression is used. They are methods that simulate the natural process by which, over millions of years, diamonds were formed in the depths of the Earth. These processes (the two systems are called HPHT or CVD), however, require special machines (don’t try with your home microwave) to crystallize the carbon and transform it into gems also used (but not only) for jewellery. For this reason, in any case, defining laboratory diamonds as green is a stretch: the process of creating synthetic gems is still very energy-intensive. The largest producers of synthetic diamonds are located in India, China and the United States.

Synthesis diamond con taglio a pera — Synthesis diamond with pear cut, stone created in the laboratory

How do you recognize them?
Artificial diamonds are difficult to distinguish from natural ones. Only experts, with special machines and in laboratories with sophisticated equipment, can perceive the different characteristics, processing and cutting. Indeed, some synthetic diamonds have properties such as hardness, thermal conductivity and electron mobility that are superior to those of most natural diamonds. Impurities are generally avoided, but can be intentionally introduced to change some properties of the diamond. In short, distinguishing them is really difficult and, for a simple jeweler, almost impossible. This is also why natural diamonds are accompanied by a certificate that guarantees their authenticity.
Synthetic diamonds are usually very small, weighing less than 1 carat, although larger laboratory gems are starting to appear on the market. They are not just white, colorless. There are also fancy ones, in particular yellow and blue. The yellow comes from nitrogen impurities in the manufacturing process, while the blue comes from boron. Other colors, such as pink or green, are obtained using radioactive rain (but without danger to health, hopefully).

Anello in oro con diamanti di laboratorio della collezione Solstice — Gold ring with laboratory diamonds from the Solstice collection by Brilliant Earth

Do they cost more or less?
Synthetic diamonds are sold on average for 15-30% less than their natural equivalents. However, it also depends on their quality: even artificial diamonds are not all the same. According to the producers, the price should decrease further as production improves. Is it worth choosing them? But, be careful: Rapaport Group, which is a party to the dispute since it deals with information on the diamond trade, has raised an alarm with the aim of warning consumers about the retail prices of laboratory-grown diamonds, considered too high . According to Rapaport, some lab stones were purchased in bulk at prices up to 99% below list price for natural diamonds. But many retailers have not applied the same discount to consumers.

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti lab grown per 0,98 carati — White gold ring with lab grown diamonds totaling 0.98 carats

All about pearls

Published on December 3, 2023

Campus

Anello in oro giallo, con perle South Sea e pavé di diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com

All about pearls: a quick guide with what you need to know about one of the most loved items in jewelry. They are also considered one of the gems (even if they are not) of the month of June ♦

Pearls: this strange and precious shape is in fashion all year, every year. In fact, pearls have been liked for centuries: since ancient times they have been used for jewelry, even for men. Queens and princesses, young girls and old grandmothers: they all wore and will wear pearls, maybe in a different way. But they are not only used for necklaces, rings and earrings: these translucent spheres are in fact made up of a material that is used to produce also some beauty cream.

Ellence, collana Sakura — Ellence, Sakura necklace

Pearl is a sphere but is not always perfect. It consists of calcium carbonate in crystalline form (aragonite). This substance forms as a deposit in concentric layers and is produced from molluscs (usually oysters). The term pearl derives from the Latin word pernula, indicating the shell that contains it, and whose oblong oval shape reminded the ancient Romans, curiously, the thigh of the pig. A pearl is formed when a foreign body, such as parasites or pieces of shells, stops in the shell cavity of the shell. To protect yourself, the molluscs cover it with a pearls. In this way, several layers of calcium are deposited which, in combination with other minerals, create pearls.

Collana di Yoko London in oro bianco, perle e diamanti indossata nella serie «Bridgerton». Copyright: gioiellis.com — Yoko London necklace in white gold, pearls and diamonds worn in the «Bridgerton» series. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The nacre, or mother-of-pearl, is the natural substance that the molluscs secrete to protect themselves from irritants such as fragments of shells, parasites or foreign bodies grafted.
Contrary to what you think, a round pearl is rare (and, therefore, worth more). Usually, however, cultured pearls do not have symmetrical shapes. Although they may be very lustrous, they cost less than round pearls. Pearls that are not round can be created with special systems: to get them, a plastic fragment is inserted with the shape chosen, which the oyster will cover with the mother pearl. The result is that after years of waiting, the pearl that is born has the enlarged form of the initial fragment.
There are not only the white pearls, the most common ones. The rarest ones are pink, cream, dark purple, gray and black. But today with cultivation techniques you can also get pearls in green, blue, or orange shades. They are mainly used in jewelry.

Diverse forme di perle — Different shapes of pearls,0

Black pearls are the rarest. They can be Akoya (they are cultivated pearls that are produced by the Pinctada Fucata Martensii, better known as Oryka Akoya), from river, or Tahiti, the finest. They are also rare because oysters that create black pearls are much more delicate.
There are freshwater and saltwater pearls. The former are cultivated in lakes and rivers, the latter in the ocean and often in the lagoons. The most precious are the South Sea. But they are very widespread: they are found in the Persian Gulf and Red Sea, in the Indian Ocean, along the South Coast of India, Sri Lanka. Mother-of-pearl, besides being used in the jewelery market, is today also used in cosmetics and even for the creation of some paints.

Collana con perle di Tahiti e chiusura in oro — Necklace with Tahitian pearls and gold clasp

How to evaluate pearls
The quality is measured with the luster, that is, with the amount and quality of light reflected from the surface of the pearl. Obviously, the shine is high, the better the quality. How to do? Try: You must be able to see your reflection clearly on the surface of the pearl. If, however, you see nothing, it means that the pearl is too white and opaque, probably of medium or low quality.

Collana di perle by Coscia, indossata — Pearl necklace by Coscia

Evaluation systems

Pearls classification is complicated: in fact, two different systems are in use. AAA-A and A-D (also called Tahiti System). This can create confusion in those who buy a jewel with pearls. The AAA rating system evaluates pearls with a scale ranging from A (lowest vote) to AAA (highest vote). Usually this classification is used for freshwater pearls and Akoya, but it can also be referred to for Australians and Tahiti.

AAA High quality, with no defects. The surface of the pearl has a very high shine, and at least 95% of the surface has no defects.

AA + High quality, luster, 85% of the surface without defect.

AA The surface has a high shine, 75% of the surface has no defects.

A + Luster not very high, surface with some defect, but below 25%.

A Luster shade, more than 25% of the surface with defects.

A-D classification (or Tahiti system)

Consider pearls on a ladder that goes from A (highest vote) to D (lowest vote). It is used in particular in French Polynesia.

A high shine and minimal imperfections, below 10% of the surface.

B High or medium shine, imperfections up to 30%.

C Medium shine, imperfections up to 60%.

D Imperfections on 60% of the surface.

La dimensione delle perle — The size of the pearls

The dimension

The dimensions matter, in this case: the most sought-after pearls are the big ones. In very rare cases the diameter reaches 2 inches (australian ones). Usually, however, they are smaller: from a diameter of even less than 1 millimeter to an average size of 6.5 to 7 millimeters.

Beware of hidden defects: Be careful of your pearls, often those on bracelets or rings hide a defect at the bottom. That’s why they have (or should have) a lower price.

Low priced jewelry is dangerous?

Published on November 27, 2023

Campus

Are jewelry bought on stalls or markets dangerous? Cause allergies? In London they discovered… ♦ ︎

The alarm comes time ago from London. But it can be safely extended to the whole of Europe and, perhaps, to the United States, Australia, and so on. The alarm concerns low-cost bijoux that are sold on stalls, markets, and cheap stores. These jewels, which in almost all cases are manufactured in the Far East countries, like China, often contain toxic substances. In short, they cost little, but the money that you save will be spent in medicine.

The survey results
According to a survey conducted by London Trading Standards and made known by Professional Jeweler, over half of the necklaces low cost have excessive levels of toxic materials. To find out, 30 metal necklaces were purchased from stalls and stores in London. Bijoux has been analyzed to identify components, in particular lead, cadmium and nickel release, measured according to European parameters (Reach Regulation). Lead and cadmium are toxic metals and only very low levels of jewelery are allowed (0.05% and 0.01% of total weight). Result: on 30 tested necklaces, 19 were not conforming to the rules (63.3%), only 11 variants (36.7%) had acceptable levels of lead, cadmium and nickel while 50% had excess lead, In one case even 82.4%.

Bigiotteria in vendita — Jewelry for sale at the market

Nickel allergy
Nickel, in particular, is known to create a sensitivity reaction and is the most common cause of contact allergy in Europe. And one of the headed necklaces had a very high nickel rate, over 60% of the maximum allowed.
How to avoid allergies to nickel

You may not know that many metals that you come into contact with are toxic. Here are the 35 most dangerous: antimony, arsenic, bismuth, cadmium, cerium, chromium, cobalt, copper, gallium, gold, iron, lead, manganese, mercury, nickel, platinum, silver, tellurium, thallium, tin, uranium, vanadium and zinc.

When excessive exposure to these metals occurs, you may feel asthenia and fatigue, up to brain damage, to the lungs, kidneys, liver, up to abnormal changes in the composition of the blood.

Of course it is very difficult that a jewel should cause these symptoms. But it should be noted that prolonged contact with these metals can result in progressive muscle and neurological degeneration, with symptoms typical of serious degenerative diseases such as multiple sclerosis, Parkinson’s disease, Alzheimer’s disease and muscular dystrophy, in addition to tumors.

It should be noted that the list also includes metals such as gold and silver, which are not considered harmful. This is undoubtedly true of jewelry. Yet even gold, if inhaled (for example when powdered) or ingested, can be harmful. Furthermore, there is a small group of people who are also allergic to gold.

Bancarella di bijoux — Stall with jewellery

Mercatino di Portobello, Londra — Portobello Market, London

How to choose a pendant

Published on November 25, 2023

Campus

A pendant at the end of the necklace, a beautiful pendant that attracts attention, is what it takes to enhance your body. But, beware: a pendant, or a pendant, must be chosen well. Here are some tips on how to choose the perfect pendant, a pendant that complements your necklace and your appearance. Before choosing the pendant or pendant, however, you must be sure that you have worn a necklace with the right size for you. If you have any doubts, you can read this article which explains how to choose the length of the necklace.

Pendente in oro rosa e diamanti di Alex Ball — Rose gold and diamond pendant by Alex Ball

The pendants of a necklace can be added later, or they can be purchased together with the jewel. Often the pendants are detachable and this allows, for example, to wear even a simple chain. Buying a pendant together with the necklace on which it will be fixed is the simplest choice, because it allows you to immediately evaluate the relationship with the pendant. A pendant, in fact, must not be too small compared to the thickness of a chain and, in the same way, a large pendant hanging on a thin thread could give the impression of coming off at any moment. And, in fact, this can happen every now and then.

Pendente in oro, madreperla, rubellite e ametista. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Pendant in gold, mother of pearl, rubellite and amethyst. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Compare the weight
Therefore, the first aspect to consider when choosing a necklace with a pendant is the relationship between the chain or cord and the weight of the matched jewel. The pendant must not weigh more than the chain that holds it.

Versione choker con pendente — Choker with pendant by Nanis

Attention to style
Chain and pendant must be combined: if you do not buy the jewel already assembled, pay attention to the style of the two pieces, which must be homogeneous. If the chain is vintage, for example, it will look better with a pendant from the same era. Not only that: choose metal of the same color. Yellow gold, for example, can have very different shades, which depend on the alloy used: check that the shades are the same.

Collana con pendente e anelli — Necklace with pendant and rings by Yeprem

Collecting pendants
A collection of pendants to add to a chain is an excellent idea. It allows, for example, to choose the right pendant for every occasion. In addition, with the purchase of a single chain you will have many different jewels available. You can also choose to collect pendants according to a criterion. For examples, based on the subject of the pendant (flowers, fruits, animals, symbols, objects) or according to a style (art deco, art nouveau, seventies, etc.) or, again, choose pendants from the same Maison.

Pendente della Chic collection — Fair Line, pendant from the Chic collection

How to wear it
It’s easy to get away with “as you like”. In reality, this is not the case. The first thing to consider is your size: are you tall, short, medium? The pendant volume must be proportionate to your body. It is useless to wear a tiny pendant that will become invisible if your hobby is playing basketball. And just as disproportionate will be a great pendant if your height or, better still, lowliness, does not make you stand out in the crowd.

Pendente Pandora O indossato — Worn Pandora pendant

Pendants and décolleté
A pendant is often worn to enhance the décolleté. Right. But keep in mind that a pendant is like a sign that says: look here. Also in this case it takes a bit of common sense. If the décolleté hides a teenager size, it is useless to emphasize this aspect with a flashy pendant. But this also applies to women with an eye-catching bust size: there is no need to emphasize it with extra large pendants. Once you have chosen the right volume of the pendant, avoid that it arrives exactly where the neckline ends: it is better to stop first (this obviously depends on the size of the necklace). Another tip: a pendant should enhance you, not the jeweler who created it. If the pendant is gold, make sure that the color of the metal is the one that best suits your skin tone. If you have any doubts, read How to combine jewelry with face and skin.

Collana e pendente Mezzaluna in oro rosa e diamanti, indossato — Al Coro, Mezzaluna necklace and pendant in rose gold and diamonds, worn

Which style to choose?
The pendant should reflect your style and mood. The most classic pendant there is is the diamond, or several diamonds, with a small setting attached to a thin chain. It is a jewel that will never fade, but it has only one flaw: if you do not have an adequate budget to buy a large stone or a jewel with many small diamonds, it risks being almost invisible. Another timeless jewel is the gold pendant with precious or semi-precious stones, with or without accompanying diamonds. To always remain among the classic pendants, another variant is that of the pendant with one or more pearls.

Gobbi, gioielli indossati della collezione Fairytale — Gobbi, worn jewels from the Fairytale collection

Pendants with message
For years, the jewelry has also offered pendants, even at very affordable prices, which consist of metal, gold, silver or steel medals, engraved with a message, or a date or a zodiac sign. In many cases these medals are customizable, for example with the partner’s name or a special date. Most of these pendants, however, are intended for a very young audience, although there are exceptions. Before buying one, however, think about it: the message engraved on the medal should not tire you after a couple of times you have worn the pendant.

Ciondolo della collezione Très Jolie — Pendant from the Très Jolie collection by Pasquale Bruni

The Victorian medallion
At one time, women wore rather large pendants, and most importantly, with a hidden secret. The medallions that open and conceal a photograph, a tuft of hair or a message inside are cited in dozens of novels from the last century or even earlier. But the reality is that they have never gone out of fashion: very romantic, they are often heart-shaped or oval.

Collezione Comanion by Jörg Heinz: il guscio esterno del ciondolo si apre e si chiude ruotandolo e rivela il suo prezioso segreto — Comanion collection by Jörg Heinz: the outer shell of the pendant opens and closes by rotating it and reveals its precious secret

The spiritual pendant
Each religion has more or less observant faithful. For those who feel a special bond with their faith, there are pendants with religious symbols. For example, the cross for Christians. Cousins of this type of pendants, because they are linked not to a religion, but to popular traditions and beliefs, are pendants with symbols linked to luck or to keep negative events away, such as the four-leaf clover, the hand of Fatima, the eye.

Thomas Sabo, collezione Rebel at heart, con croce — Thomas Sabo, Rebel at heart collection, with cross

Collana Louis Vuitton indossata — Louis Vuitton necklace worn

What is 925 silver?

Published on November 20, 2023

Campus

What does the number 925 mean in jewelry? If you are reading this article you are wondering why this mysterious figure is imprinted on some rings, necklaces, earrings or bracelets. And in fact, there are many people who have asked us for it. The more experienced will smile: the answer is very simple. But there are several things to know around the 925 brand.

Anello in argento sterling con ametista. È visibile la punzonatura con il numero 925 — Pianegonda ring in sterling silver with amethyst. The hallmark with the number 925 is visible

What does the number mean. The number 925 stamped on the surface of a jewel (but also of household items or cutlery) is associated with silver. Indeed, to a particular type, the one that distinguishes sterling silver. And here is the meaning of the number revealed: sterling silver is an alloy made up of 92.5% pure silver, while the rest of the metal is made up of other metals, almost always copper for the remaining 7.5%. Why not use 100% pure silver? The answer is that an alloy with other metals makes silver more resistant: your rings and earrings will scratch less. At the same time, this alloy allows for simple silver processing. More rarely, you may also find the number 999. In this case it is pure silver, not alloyed with other metals. But in this case you have to be careful, because pure silver is also very soft and deforms more easily.

Collana della collezione Skin — Silver necklace from the Skin collection

Oxidation. Sterling silver also tends to turn black, that is, it oxidizes. To reduce silver oxidation and porosity, in addition to copper, other substances can be added, such as germanium, zinc, platinum, silicon and boron. But they are alloys that then take on other names, such as argentium or sterlium.

Anello in sterling silver — Sterling silver ring by Thomas Sabo

How to clean sterling silver? Find all the information in this article.

argento ossidato — An oxidized silver bracelet

History. But why is 925 silver called sterling, the English name for sterling? Obviously because the pounds were made in silver. The sterling alloy, however, did not originate in England, but in continental Europe and was used for trade as early as the 12th century in the area that is now Northern Germany. In England the composition of sterling silver was subject to official controls even before the mid-1100s. This type of alloy then spread all over the world.

Bracciale della collezione Selene in argento rodiato — Bracelet from the Selene collection in rhodium-plated 925 silver by Officina Bernardi

Can an engagement ring be colored?

Published on November 17, 2023

Campus

Crieri, anello con smeraldo della collezione Bogotà. Copyright: gioiellis.com

A ring with a colored gem instead of the classic white diamond? You can.

Perhaps it will be surprising for many, but the engagement ring must not necessarily be linked to the classic white diamond. Mind you: a rim in white gold with a brilliant and fourteenth -century diamond or six rebbi (the Tiffany frame) that block the gem, are fine. Indeed, such a ring has the advantage of being able to be worn on any occasion, with any dress, at any phase of life. It is necessary to know, however, that this type of ring is a fairly recent convention.

1 When do you give an engagement ring as a gift?
2 The 10 etiquette rules for the engagement ring
3 How to choose the engagement ring
4 Engagement ring: 5 things to know
5 Women dissatisfied with the engagement ring
6 Women willing to pay for their engagement ring
7 Colored Engagement Rings

Anello Essentially Color di Picchiotti indossato con tormalina verde, ametista, diamanti — Essentially Color ring by Picchiotti worn with green tourmaline, amethyst, diamonds

The rings that for centuries have accompanied a request for engagement, a commitment for marriage, or simply were a testimony to the love of a man towards a woman, they were not the solitaire. Indeed, more often a colorful gem was chosen, from ruby to sapphire. It was, and it is still, a choice appreciated by women, the more the ring is made with generous size stones.

L'anello di fidanzamanto indossato da Kate Middleton. Era di Lady Diana — The engagement ring worn by Kate Middleton. It was Lady Diana’s

Therefore, it is completely legitimate to give an engagement ring with a precious or semi-predious gem. Just remember Diana Spencer’s famous engagement ring, with a large blue sapphire surrounded by a diamond crown. But it is not the only example of engagement ring with colored gems. Although there are also those who, like Jennifer Lopez, have received a ring with diamond, but of green shades, a very rare color for this type of gem.

L'anello con diamante verde di Jennifer Lopez — Jennifer Lopez’s green diamond ring

However, the choice of an engagement ring with colored gems must be performed carefully, because there is the danger of exaggerating. A ring full of colorful gems, very lively and flashy is not indicated as an engagement ring. Rather, it is what is called a cocktail ring, which suits, precisely, for parties or worldly occasions. An engagement ring, however, will often be worn on several occasions: it will therefore have to be sober, without excess, to be able to combine with any dress, both during moments of leisure, and in the office or during a ceremony.

Anello con rubino e diamanti indossato — Ruby and diamond ring worn

Gioielli, Jewelry, Joaillerie, Joyas, Jewelen

Campus - Page 2

Adjustable necklaces

Adjustable necklaces, necklaces with a knot, necklaces with the string: this is why to choose this type of jewel ♦

Chains and gourmettes

Can you distinguish between different types of chains? Not all jewelry chains are created equal. Here’s how to choose a chain.

How to lengthen a necklace

All about garnet

Garnet is one of the most used stones in jewelry. But can you distinguish it? Here’s what you need to know about the garnet, stone of the month of January, which actually brings together many different types ♦

How to distinguish between real and synthetic diamond?

The jewels suitable for New Year’s Eve

Jewels and amulets

The jewels in the shape of an amulet or talisman. But you can wear them even if you are not superstitious ♦

Rivière jewelery guide

Rivière and Triple X: Two terms that are sometimes used in jewelery. You want to know what Rivière and Triple X mean? Read here ♦

Holydays in red with coral

4 things to know before giving away a jewel

Four tips from an expert for those who want to give a jewel. Read and above all, do not forget them ♦

How to behave in a jewelry store

Do you want to buy a jewel? Know that jewelers judge your behavior and may be more or less available. Here’s what not to do when you enter a jewelery store ♦

What jewelry to wear at Christmas

Which jewels to wear on Christmas Day or on Christmas Eve? Here are 5 things to know. The first is … ♦ ︎

1 The three colors of the parties

2 You are not the tree

3 Christmas lunch

4 The eve dinner

5 Toast with jewels

What are bridge jewelry?

Because every ring finger has a meaning

What does wearing the ring on the index mean? Or on the thumb, the little finger, the middle finger?

Also read: On which finger to wear the ring

Be careful of the prices of laboratory diamonds

All about pearls

All about pearls: a quick guide with what you need to know about one of the most loved items in jewelry. They are also considered one of the gems (even if they are not) of the month of June ♦

Low priced jewelry is dangerous?

Are jewelry bought on stalls or markets dangerous? Cause allergies? In London they discovered… ♦ ︎

How to choose a pendant

What is 925 silver?

Can an engagement ring be colored?