Gold at the highest, the forecast for 2024

Gold surpassed $2,100 an ounce, a record. Time to sell? Or to buy? A confidential report from the Dutch bank ING offers some suggestions.

For gold, the market seems to be accelerating for two reasons: expectations on the monetary policy strategies of central banks and geopolitical tensions, to which is added the uncertainty for the future of the stock market. The result is that the yellow metal reached $2,146 an ounce in December. The previous record of $2,075 was reached in August 2020, when the world was grappling with the covid pandemic and rates were below zero. Since the beginning of 2023 the increase has been approximately 15%. The end of the inflation threat should push central banks to lower rates and buying gold seems like a good idea to many international investors.

Lingotti d'oro
Gold bars

The two ongoing wars in Ukraine and Israel contribute to pushing towards a diversification of investments into more defensive assets, such as gold. Added to this is the policy of the central banks which have increased their gold reserves. In the third quarter of 2023, for example, gold reserves increased by 337 tonnes. And in the first nine months of the year, central banks purchased 800 tonnes (+14% on 2022) of yellow metal, more than a third of the mining production in the same period, which was already a record. And among the central banks, the most active was the Chinese one.
Lingotti d'oro in vendita
Gold bars for sale

Ing’s report
But will gold continue its run? A confidential report by the Dutch bank ING tries to answer this question. “We expect prices to remain above the $2,000 level next year as the global gold rush continues,” argue the authors, analysts Warren Patterson (Head of Commodities Strategy) and Ewa Manthey (Commodities Strategist). «We believe Fed policy will remain critical to the outlook for gold prices in the coming months. The strength of the US dollar and tightening central banks have weighed on the gold market for much of 2023. Higher rates are generally negative for gold” is the premise. “The latest US data shows that inflation and the labor market are cooling, with markets now pricing in a 50% chance of a rate cut in March and fully pricing in a rate cut in May.” This should support the rise in gold.
I gioielli in oro sono destinati ad aumentare di prezzo
Gold jewelery is set to increase in price

Even if the picture is not so schematic. For example, investments in gold-focused funds declined in 2023. Year-to-date, global outflows have amounted to $13 billion, equivalent to a 225-ton drop in reserves. Most of these sales came from European funds and North America. “Looking ahead to 2024, we believe we will see a resurgence of investor interest in the precious metal and a return to net inflows as gold prices rise as US interest rates fall,” Ing forecast.
Piccoli lingotti d'oro
Small gold ingots

Also pushing gold, as previously mentioned, is the central bank factor, which has increased its purchases, mainly China (+78 tons), Poland (+57 tons), Turkey (+39 tons) and India (+9 tons). China was the largest buyer of gold in 2023 in an 11-month buying spree. The People’s Bank of China has purchased 181 tonnes this year, bringing gold to 4% of its reserves. Not only that: in 2022 central banks purchased a record 1,136 tons of gold, compared to the 450 tons purchased in 2021, driven by the uncertainties caused by the war in Ukraine. One more reason, according to Ing, to continue supporting the value of gold to rise in 2024.

The prospects, however, according to analysts, are not to exceed the December 2023 record too much: «We expect gold prices to reach new highs next year and reach an average of 2,100 dollars per ounce in the fourth quarter, with an average of 2024 by $2,031 per ounce,” they write in the report. In short, the value of gold should remain high, around the levels of the end of 2023.

Le previsioni di Ing
Ing’s forecasts

The affordable luxury of Dana Rebecca

Third generation of jewelry designers, Dana Rebecca Gordon seems to have precious stones in her DNA. And in fact, she debuted with a line at just 16 and right after college (she is an American from Chicago): during the summer, she tells her, she went to India with my father and returned home with her my first collection. Immediately all sold. An encouragement to found the brand with the name Dana Rebecca.

Anello Sophia in oro bianco e diamanti
Sophia ring in white gold and diamonds

All her creations, which she defines as accessible luxury, start from the combination of gold and diamonds above all, although sometimes she loves working with different stones, for example tourmaline, moonstone, opal, aquamarine: many colors set in gold 14 carat. But these are timeless and very versatile jewels as they can be combined with the same ease with a couture dress or worn with a t-shirt and jeans. The collection for next season is also made up of many pieces, many earrings, and geometric shapes of different volumes: elegant jewels, but to be worn every day.

Pendente Sadie in oro giallo e diamanti baguette
Pendente Sadie in oro giallo e diamanti baguette

Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti baguette
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti baguette

Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti

Pendente com diamanti taglio marquise
Pendente com diamanti taglio marquise
Orecchini in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini a cerchio in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini a cerchio in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello eternity con topazio
Anello eternity con topazio

Clean the jewels with ketchup, beer and vodka

Tomato ketchup, vodka or beer to clean your jewelry. Yes, you can. If you do not have anything better at hand … ♦

At the table with jewels. To clean them. According to somebody, there are many ways to make brighter necklaces, rings and earrings: just use some products that are usually used in the kitchen. For example, ketchup, beer and vodka. Attention: we are not advising to follow these indications, especially for your most precious jewels. But, who knows, maybe it works …

Tomato sauce

For example, a bowl of ketchup can clean a ring dipped in red sauce after 5 or 10 minutes. Don’t leaving the jewel in contact with the sauce for too long: could cause damage. Clean everything with a toothbrush and rinse. Another useful food is beer: just pour a little on a clean cloth and rub gently to revive the gold. Better not to try, however, on light plating, and do not use dark beer.

Pulire i gioielli con l'acqua minerale
Pulire i gioielli con l’acqua minerale

Alcohol also likes diamonds: a small glass of vodka can restore brightness to the stones, but also to zirconia and crystal. Just pour the vodka on a soft cloth and carefully clean the jewels, or immerse the jewel in a glass full of the Russian liquor par excellence. Those who are teetotalers are consoled: sparkling water is excellent for resurrecting the splendor of the gems. Immerse a jewel with stones embedded in a glass with sparkling mineral water. Let it rest overnight: in the morning everything will be more shiny.
And after lunch? Brushing your teeth is a good hygiene rule. While you are there, however, you can use toothbrush and toothpaste on metal jewels or stones like diamonds or rubies. Then, rinse (before returning to the table).

Spazzolino e dentifricio sono utili anche per pulire i gioielli
Toothbrush and toothpaste are also useful for cleaning jewelry

Brusi and the asymmetric nature

The jewels of the small Milanese Maison Brusi, founded in 1930 ♦

Brusi is part of the many stories of Italian jewelry. A story that began in Milan in 1920, when the young Pietro Codari, a young goldsmith, started his business and opened a laboratory. The story continued: in 1970 his son Paolo inherited his laboratory and profession. Over time the company has expanded and has refined its vocation. Today, Paolo, Andrea and Simone, Paolo Codari’s three children, work in the family business and are responsible for the creative, financial and commercial management of Brusi.

Anello in oro con tanzanite e corona di diamanti
Gold ring with tanzanite and diamond crown

The company, located in a historic area of the city, between the Monumental Cemetery of Milan and the Chinese quarter, offers good quality pieces, based on gold, diamonds and precious stones. Rings with champagne diamond pavé and precious stones such as tanzanite are the workhorses. Always with the style of «almost symmetry». That is, that difference from the perfect geometric specularity that is often found in nature. The goal is to present jewelry in harmony with nature, thanks to this natural asymmetry. Subtle but interesting concept.

Anelli con smeraldi e zaffiri
Rings with emeralds and blue sapphires
Anelli con diamanti champagne
Anelli con diamanti champagne
Orecchini in oro, apatite, madreperla, diamanti brown
Orecchini in oro, apatite, madreperla, diamanti brown
Orecchini in oro e diamanti champagne e bianchi
Orecchini in oro e diamanti champagne e bianchi
Orecchini in oro e zaffiri blu
Orecchini in oro e zaffiri blu
Orecchini in oro e rubini
Orecchini in oro e rubini
Anello in oro bianco e tanzanite
Anello in oro bianco e tanzanite

Salvatore Arzani, hearts, flowers and fantasy

Pavé diamonds, gold, sapphires … These are the classic materials used to make Salvatore Arzani jewels ♦

One of the many luxury craft workshops that are found in Valenza is Salvatore Arzani. It is a small company, but with great quality, so it can sells abroad most of its production. As often happens in the Piedmont town, the company is the daughter of a long tradition. Together with the wife of founder, daughters and a dozen virtuosos of embedding, engraving and welding machine, the small brand is a kind of summary of what the Italian craftsmanship and design in jewelery.

Collana in oro bianco 18 kt con pendente chicco di riso in pavé di diamanti
18 kt white gold necklace with grain of rice pendant in pavé diamonds

For example, with a collection of unique pieces in 18 carat gold and diamonds, with extensive use of colored stones that dot the large rings that make up the chains. Even collections such as Fantasia, in any case, follow the classical canons of diamonds, whites, blacks or colored stones like sapphires pavé that make sometimes resemble mosaics and a winding arabesques. Bracelets, big rings, pendants in the shape of hearts or flowers, are the cornerstones of signed Salvatore Arzani jewelry.

18 kt white gold ring set with brilliant-cut diamonds
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti a forma di fiore
Flower-shaped ring in white gold and diamonds
Anelli con diamanti e zaffiri della collezione Fantasia
Rings with diamonds and sapphires from the Fantasia collection
Anelli rosa con diamanti bianchi, neri e colorati
Pink rings with white, black and colored diamonds
Catena in oro e diamanti
Chain in gold and diamonds
Anelli catena in oro bianco, giallo e diamanti
Chain rings in white and yellow gold and diamonds

The atomic jewels of Settantove Studio

Whoever reads this article wears, or has in their drawer, at least one piece of gold jewellery. But, probably, he doesn’t know it fully. He does not know, for example, that the atoms that make up the gold of his jewel are composed of 79 electrons. It seems like a superfluous detail, but it isn’t: gold is gold precisely because it has that certain number of elementary particles. And it is also the reason that led Gioia Lelli, a designer from Forlì, to call her jewelry brand Settantanove Studio. The word Studio, however, indicates the search for an essential and contemporary design. The designer’s choice, however, does not derive from a scientific background: before dedicating herself to jewellery, Gioia graduated in pedagogy and worked in the school sector.

Anello cuore in oro 18 carati
Heart ring in 18k gold

The jewels of Settantanove Studio, therefore, can only be in 18 karat gold, with a design that is defined as composed of simple and essential lines. The jewels are designed by Gioia and are taken care of down to the smallest detail, from the design phase to their creation, with entirely handmade workmanship and meticulous attention to detail. Attention is also paid to the choice of materials: Settantanove Studio prefers the use of ethical gold deriving from mines that respect specific environmental and social standards. The precious and semi-precious stones are supplied by certified companies. Finally, the brand uses packaging made with recyclable materials.

Collana Luna
Moon necklace
Orecchino in oro con acquamarina
Gold earring with aquamarine
Orecchini Bold in oro
Bold earrings in gold
Collana Puro Amore con acquamarina
Puro Amore necklace with aquamarine

The body art by Anissa Kermiche

Anissa Kermiche, a designer with the temptation of small provocations that enhance the female body, but not just ♦ ︎

From engineer become a jeweler: it is not a usual the Anissa Kermiche path. Born in Paris to a French-Algerian marriage, had, she says, a strict upbringing. Perhaps for that, or perhaps as a reaction to the engineering profession, after graduating he flew to London to learn 3D Computer Aided Design at Holts Academy in Hatton Gardens. She wanted to create jewelry. And she managed quite well. Now its brand, Anissa Kermiche, includes jewelry in gold and diamonds and a pinch of provocation, as the earrings with the challenge finger raised, or pendant depicting a naked woman torso. In short, exactly what one would not expect from a girl with degree in engineering.

Orecchino a bottone in oro 9 carati
Orecchino a bottone in oro 9 carati

Moreover, it also boasts a very pretty appearance, perhaps even more than pretty, and so it is a perfect ambassador of herself. Of course, in her jewelry there isn’t shortage of geometric references. But she prefers to be inspired by artists such as Francois Morellet, Alexander Calder and Constantin Brancusi. So he decided the destiny: the streets to jewelry are endless.

Bracciale in argento dorato con perle di acqua dolce
Golden silver bracelet with fresh water pearls
Bracciale in oro 14 carati con tanzanite
14k gold bracelet with tanzanite
Orecchino Brönte a cerchio in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Brönte hoop earring in 14k gold and diamonds
Collana Buonanotte in argento placcato e smalto
Goodnight necklace in plated silver and enamel
Collana Le Derrière Sanded, argento placcato
Le Derrière Sanded necklace, silver plated
Orecchino con perle
Pearl earring
Anissa Kermiche
Anissa Kermiche

Jewelry and gold: real or fake? Questions and answers

True or false? Can gold be recognized with a bite? Is real jade cold? Is cubic zirconia, often confused with zircon, indistinguishable from diamond? Does silver cause allergies? Is 925 the number of perfect silver? Do the reflections of a stone have to be rainbow? These are among the many questions we often receive and their answers.

To check that your jewel of gold genuine need to bite him.

FALSE Pure gold is a very soft metal and, in fact, teeth can easily leave a mark if it is very pure, 24 carats. But biting it is neither a guarantee nor a recommendable test. Furthermore, it can damage your teeth. Not to mention that lead is even softer than gold: a jewel that uses gold-plated lead could easily be mistaken. Furthermore, 18 karat gold is usually used for jewelry, or even less: 14 and even 9 karat. It is gold alloyed with other metals: this makes the gold less malleable and also less expensive. In short, in reality, in addition to gold, we also end up biting other metals such as silver, copper, palladium, nickel.

Biting gold is not a guarantee
Biting gold is not a guarantee

True or false? To find out if a stone is genuine need to look at it in the light.

TRUE Note: the only truly reliable way to identify a gemstone is the opinion of a gemologist or a jeweler, or laboratory tests. That said, here’s a helpful hint to decide whether it is worthwhile to consider the stone of a ring or a necklace. Place the stone against the sunlight and look at the range of colors it produces. The authentic gemstones usually show a rainbow that will be reflected on a nearby surface. Most of the real gems will produce a full range of colors: the stone closer to the eye and tilt it, you should see a rainbow. The stones that produce nothing are often false. We repeat: it is not a final proof: for some stones, especially those very dense, deep coloring or that were not completely polished, the system may not work. But it is a little test should not be overlooked.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show
Examination of a diamond jewel

A cubic zirconia is virtually the same as a diamond, only it costs less.

FALSE What is commonly called a zircon is actually a cubic zirconia: an artificial stone that resembles a diamond. It’s brilliant, but much, much cheaper. In fact, it is just very difficult to distinguish it from a real diamond if you are not an expert. It is a cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide. It is a very hard synthetic material, optically perfect and usually colorless, although it can be made in a variety of different colors. It should not be confused with natural zircon, a stone composed of zirconium silicate, often blue in color. Cubic zirconia is sometimes mistakenly called “cubic zirconium”. Commercial production began in 1976. Its main competitor as a laboratory-created gem is synthetic moissanite.

Cubic zirconia
Cubic zirconia

The silver cause allergies and skin turns green.

FALSE The color is not caused by an allergy is a reaction to the metals used in jewelry and it is often fused with silver, especially when the skin sweats. In short, it indicates that silver is not pure. It is the copper and silver often result in a green halo on the skin. Sterling silver, for example, is 7.5 percent of an alloy with copper. The most common stains left by Sterling Silver Jewelry, in any case, are black and not green. Some sterling silver jewelry are coated with products that help them to maintain the patina, but the coatings may fade over time.

Bracciali in argento a maglia geometrica con charm
Geometric mesh silver bracelets with Pandora charms

The number 925 indicates that the jewelry is real silver.

TRUE In the inner part of a jewel, engraving or stamping the number 925 indicates that the material is, in fact 925, the most common alloy. Of course, the warranty covers: nothing prevents that was affixed to a false jewel, but usually not the case for silver.

In questo orecchino di Giovanni Raspini è ben visibile la punzonatura con il numero 925
In this earring by Giovanni Raspini the hallmark with the number 925 is clearly visible

The Chinese store near your house has rings of jade at a very good price. Can I trust you? They told me that the real jade is cold.

TRUE The temperature is not sufficient proof, but it gives an indication: the jade is poorly conductive. Place it in a sensitive part, for example on the face, it is easy to feel a sensation of cold. Another easy tip is to try to carve the stone with the nail: the true jade is very tough and not show a scratch. The same test can be conducted with a very hot object: the real jade will not show signs of the contact. Finally, authentic jade usually has small imperfections, which are common in nature. A perfect stone should you be born a suspect. In any case, real jade is very expensive.

Anello Palloncino con giada
Palloncino Ring with green jade by Vhernier

5 rules for selling your gold jewelry

Is it a good idea to sell your jewelry? How do you sell a ring, a necklace or earrings? Here are the things to know before selling your precious jewels: the first thing to check is … ♦

The price of gold rises, falls, goes up again. Will it be the right time to sell your jewelry? If you have a gold jewel, before selling it is better to get an idea of ​​the quotation of the yellow metal. But what is the real price? If the jewel is of a great Maison, with diamonds or other precious stones, it is better to have it evaluated by at least three different jewelers: the evaluations can be very different.

Gioielli in oro
Gold jewelry

If, however, your jewelry is made in large part of gold, the first thing to do is look carefully at the charts of the quotes (but also silver and platinum). The experts can also follow the lists of the New York Spot Gold or London Fix. Which one is better? Depends: the first is a price index mainly for transactions in the United States, while the latter refers to European and international markets. It is not a small detail if you intend to sell an important jewel, because the buyer could make his assessment on the most convenient square for him. Knowing, however, the price of gold serves to get an idea of ​​the price: better not to trust what some operators who buy jewelry by weight explain. Here, then, five tips to sell their golds at best.

Isabelle Fa, collana in oro indossata. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Isabelle Fa, gold necklace worn. Copyright: gioiellis.com

1 Identify price changes: if there is an upward surge in gold prices, London Fix is ​​the first to record its growth, so this is the best market for the seller and obviously not for the buyer. We repeat: this applies to jewels that have a certain weight. For a few grams the difference is not much.

2 Learn gold weights and measures: it is essential, because even if buyers use grams as a unit of measure, in reality the value on the international market is set in ounces. And 1 oz is equivalent to 31.1 grams. So, to understand the current price you just have to multiply the value by 1 ounce by 31.1.

Lingotti d'oro
Gold bars

3 Check the carats of the jewels: the official price of gold is that of pure metal, at 24 carats. But no modern jewel has 24 carats. The jewels are made of gold combined with other metals, to increase resistance, or simply to lower the price. 14-carat gold means, for example, that only 58.3% of your jewelry is made of gold. The rest can be nickel, silver, copper … So when you go to sell the jewel, it will be calculated not for its total weight, but in that relative to the gold part. Attention, 9-carat jewels are often advertised as gold, but when sold they are not considered as such.

Lavorazione di gioielleria
Jewelry making

4 Calculate and compare the best price: It is better to measure and accurately weigh jewels before going to any store, to get an idea (on the internet special scales are on sale). Also, keep in mind that those who buy gold do not pay the theoretical price of the list, because they must merge the jewel and, obviously, add its percentage of income, on which the taxes are paid. Basically, if you have calculated well the value of your gold jewel taking into account the percentage present in the alloy (the carats) and its weight, you must remove at least a good 30%.

Lavorazione orafa. Foto: LaPresse
Goldsmith workmanship. Photo: LaPresse

5 Get the best price: Internet is a good channel for buying jewelry, but not for selling. Some buyers apply discounted rates up to 50% compared to some stores “buy gold”: the same necklace of 14 carats could be estimated at half The jewelers could, however, pay more if they detect a fine craftsmanship, because the jewel it could be transformed and reused.

Controllate il peso del gioielli
Check the weight of the jewelry

The eight gold colors of Annamaria Cammilli

Annamaria Cammilli is the only Maison to offer gold jewelery with eight different shades.

There are those who bet everything on white gold, perhaps accompanied by a small diamond. There are those who expand the choice to the three classic colors of metal: yellow, pink and white. But only a Maison has expanded beyond these boundaries and has expanded the color palette of gold. With four? Nah. Five? Not even. Annamaria Cammilli had pushed herself up to seven colors of gold. Until yesterday. Because the brand from Florence has further expanded the color palette with Brown Chocolate. The colors of gold for which the brand is famous, in short, have become eight.

Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Natural Beige
Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Natural Beige

Gold changes color in exclusive shades that are the result of fusions of special alloys. But all colors are strictly 18 carat gold.

Anello della collezione Aqua in oro 18Kt Giallo Lemon Bamboo e Giallo Sunrise (al centro) con diamanti
Anello della collezione Aqua in oro 18Kt Giallo Lemon Bamboo e Giallo Sunrise (al centro) con diamanti

The eight gold colors proposed by Annamaria Cammilli are: Lemon Bamboo Yellow, Sunrise Yellow, Ice White, Champagne Pink, Brown Chocolate, Lava Black, Apricot Orange, Natural Beige.

Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Bianco Ice 18Kt con diamanti
Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Bianco Ice 18Kt con diamanti

The nuances introduced over the years by Annamaria Cammilli range from sunrise yellow to champagne pink, up to black, through white and natural beige. Even the new jewels in the chocolate shade use the classic finish of the surface of the satin gold, one of the distinctive signs of the Maison. The special work in which the brand is famous is also found in the new collections, which we will discuss in other articles on gioiellis.com. M.B.

Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Rosa Champagne con diamanti
Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Rosa Champagne con diamanti
Anello della collezione Serie Uno in oro Brown Chocolate con diamante
Anello della collezione Serie Uno in oro Brown Chocolate con diamante
Anello della serie Regina in oro Giallo Lemon Bamboo 18Kt con Brillanti
Anello della serie Regina in oro Giallo Lemon Bamboo 18Kt con Brillanti
Orecchini della collezione Premiere in oro Nero Lava con diamanti
Orecchini della collezione Premiere in oro Nero Lava con diamanti
Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Arancio Apricot
Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Arancio Apricot

What are carats?

How many carats is your diamond in? And how many karats is your gold ring instead? For those who are not a jewelry expert or do not know the basic rules of the world of jewelry, the carats are a big mess. The carats that are the unit of measurement needed for precious stones and pearls, in fact, are a completely different thing from the karats that refer to gold. Did you know? In English, everything is easier: the carats that measure diamonds start with the letter C while those for gold start with the K. In other languages, however, it is written the same way and everything is more complicated.

This is why we must be careful not to confuse the different concepts: the carats of diamonds (or rubies, emeralds, sapphires, etc.) with the karats that are related to gold. Here’s how to distinguish.

Diamante a cuore di Recarlo
Diamond in the heart of Recarlo

The carats of the stones

The carat (the abbreviation is ct) is a unit that indicates the mass of a stone or pearl. Carats are used for convenience, after in past each country regulated itself differently for centuries. For those who traded in diamonds or other stones it was therefore difficult to work. In Florence, for example, the basic unit of measurement was equivalent to 197.2 milligrams, while in London to 205.49. After much discussion, in the end, in 1907 it was decided to adopt 200 milligrams as a carat measure. A single carat, therefore, equals one fifth of 1 gram.

Anello con diamante bianco ovale da 31,82 carati
31.82 carat oval white diamond ring

Now you know exactly how much the diamond on your finger weighs: divide the number of carats by five and you will have the weight in grams. Or, more easily, in milligrams, since it is not common to wear a diamond that weighs 5 carats (and therefore 1 gram). for this reason the carat is divisible into 100 points of 2 milligrams.

Anello di Van Cleef & Arpels a forma bombata con diamanti
Van Cleef & Arpels rounded shape ring with diamonds

By the way, why is the carat called so? The origin seems to be linked to carob seeds. The word carat derives from the Arabic qīrāṭ قيراط, which however is derived from the Greek kerátion κεράτιον, which indicates carob seeds. And these seeds were used to weigh jewels, thanks to their always regular shape. Then the term carat was used in Italy and later in the rest of the world. The use of the carat unit of measurement to weigh diamonds dates back to 1570.

Selezione dei diamanti nel laboratorio di Antwerp (Anversa)
Selection of diamonds in the Tiffany laboratory in Antwerp

The karats of gold

The carats of diamonds, precious stones and pearls refer to weight. The karats of gold, on the other hand, indicate the percentage of yellow metal present in a jewel, its fineness. The term karat has prevailed among the many systems adopted in the past and, in particular, on the measurement of pounds and ounces, which are still used for the weight of gold, platinum or silver. So why this confusion? Simple: the ancient origin of the word is the same, i.e. the carats used to measure precious materials.

Anello a fascia in oro 22 carati
Band ring in 22 carat gold

In the case of the karats that refer to gold, however, they indicate the thousandths of quantities of gold (or other precious metals) contained in an alloy. The maximum, as regards gold, is 24 karats. You will never find gold of 25 or more carats. The 24 karats indicate that the gold is 100% pure. The 24 karats are the basis for calculating the rest (always for gold). The 18-karat jewels, therefore, are 75% gold. It is calculated as follows: 18: 24 = 0.75. Similarly, a jewel with 14% gold means that it contains slightly more than half of gold, the rest are other metals (14: 24 = 0.58).

In some cases, the karats of gold can also be indicated with the number that refers to the percentage (the result of the arithmetic division). For example, 18-karat gold can also be indicated with the initials 750, 14-karat gold with 583 and so on. Again, if you read the number 375 in a jewel, know that it equals 9 karats.

The karats are also used for silver. The silver sterling, for example, contains 92.5% of silver and 7.5% of other metals, generally copper. It is generally referred to as 925 silver.

Anello Wave Stacking in oro 24 carati
Menē, Wave Stacking ring in 24 carat gold
Anello Bahia in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Bahia ring in 18K gold and diamonds
Anello in oro rosa 14 carati
14K rose gold ring
Anello in oro rosa 9 carati e diamante ice
Ring in 9 carat rose gold and ice diamond
Anello in argento satinato e lucido
Satin and polished 925 silver ring

The gold of Italy is called Marchisio

The history of Italian jewelery has a name: Marchisio. Although the Turin-based company now works for third parties, it has a story that is worth telling: it even begins in 1649, when Gian Piero Marchisio, working with Joannin Marchisio, was appointed jeweler of the royal family. In 1859 Marchisio Giovanni was born, a sole proprietorship, and the jewelery obtained from the city of Turin the first prestigious 1TO hallmark, which attests to the company’s historical roots. Years later, his descendant, Felice Marchisio, also a goldsmith in Turin, moved to Paris to learn new processing techniques. It is no coincidence that most of the terms that are still used in Italian jewelry are of French origin.

Girocollo in oro messo all'asta da Dorotheum
Girocollo in oro messo all’asta da Dorotheum

But from Paris the Italian jeweler fled due to the siege of the Prussian troops (1870). Back in Turin, he founded Marchisio Bros, which then became the largest and most important jewelery in the city: in 1880 it had over one hundred workers. The history of jewelry, between ups and downs, wars and crises, however, has continued. Until the Second World War, which marked a setback. But in 1968 Giovanni Marchisio & co reopened its doors with the Mattioli family.
Bracciale in oro giallo con piastra decorativa
Bracciale in oro giallo con piastra decorativa

In 2013 a new step: the Richemont Group purchased the historic brand. The Swiss luxury giant, in fact, took over the shares of the Ancient Marchisio Company, acquired by the Mattioli family. Marchisio remained, however, a producer for several major international brands in the sector, including some from Richemont itself (Cartier, Piaget, Buccellati, Van Cleef & Arpels). Luciano Mattioli and his daughter Licia then created a new company, Mattioli. Federico Graglia

Orecchini in oro giallo
Orecchini in oro giallo
Bracciale con oro e diamanti
Bracciale con oro e diamanti
Bracciale in oro
Bracciale in oro
Bracciale con diamanti
Bracciale con diamanti

Bracciali di Marchisio Giovanni
Bracciali di Marchisio Giovanni

Ondyn’s aquatic philosophy

Ondyn’s jewels, winner of the Couture Design Awards in the Best in Diamonds Below $40,000 Retail category.

Ondyn, the creature of New Yorker Tara Maria Famiglietti, has distant origins. Tara’s father created bespoke suits and shoes for Eric Clapton, Mick Jagger, John Lennon and Jimmy Hendrix. Her mother and aunt owned the Boutique Menage at Trois on Madison Avenue, New York, and designed dresses for Diana Ross, Bianca Jagger, Barbara Streisand and Diane von Furstenberg. She, the founder of Ondyn, started making jewelry at the age of twenty. Her contemporary jewelry Maison uses diamonds and 14 or 18 carat gold, accompanied by diamonds set to form long threads that are used for necklaces, rings or earrings.

Anello con sirena in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Siren ring in 14K gold and diamonds

Tara graduated with a degree in jewelry design from New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, she has collaborated with some of the big names in the fashion industry to create pieces that have been sold in exclusive boutiques and department stores around the world. Alongside her jewels, she also cultivates another passion: the sea. For a while, the designer lived on a sailboat, traveling across the French Riviera, the Amalfi Coast, the Balearic Islands, the African Coast and the Caribbean. And it is no coincidence that her brand is called Ondyn (a name that resembles the Italian word onda, wave). And, after all, New York is also a seaside city.

Anello Avalon in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Avalon ring in 14K gold and diamonds
Bracciale Magisterial in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Magisterial bracelet in 14K gold and diamonds
Orecchini Eminence in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Eminence earrings in 14K gold and diamonds
Orecchini con frange in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Fringed earrings in 14K gold and diamonds
Orecchini Dalliance in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Dalliance earrings in 14K gold and diamonds
Collana Zen in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Collana Zen in 14 carat gold and diamond

Can the jewels be wet?

Can the jewels be wet? Can jewels be damaged? Certainly the sea is a danger for jewels: we talked about it here. But there is not only the sea. There are many occasions, starting with your own bathtub, shower in the morning or simply the kitchen sink, where jewelry can get wet. Here, in fact: can jewels be wet? It depends. The main aspect to consider is the material they are made of. But, in any case, remember that sea salt and chlorine or other disinfectants in swimming pools can always ruin your jewelry.

I gioielli possono rovinarsi a contatto con l'acqua
Jewelry can be damaged by contact with water

Gold. The metal in its natural state does not oxidize because it does not chemically react to oxygen. Therefore, it is not afraid of contact with liquids. But, be careful: gold is often coated with a thin rhodium patina that serves to make it brighter or to change its color (as in the case of blackened gold). In this case, the jewel often immersed in water could lose its brilliance. There is, then, another problem: gold jewelry almost always does not use metal in its natural state, that is, 24 karat. In particular, the gold jewels most at risk are those that contain a greater amount of other alloying metals. For example, 14-karat gold or, even more diluted in the metal alloy, 9-karat gold. Also in this case, contact with water or other liquids can cause the metal to lose its luster.

Anello Wave Stacking in oro 24 carati
Menē, Wave Stacking ring in 24 carat gold

Gold plating. There are cases of gold oxidation when this is a plating on another metal. This phenomenon occurs, for example, when a mercury gilding process is used, which is based on the application of a mercury-gold amalgam on a metal, followed by heating to remove the mercury: thus a layer of gold is obtained porous, which can let liquids penetrate. In this case, a chemical reaction on the metal used as a support can cause an oxidation phenomenon that is reflected on the whole jewel, even on the gold part. In any case, a gold plating is more fragile and tends to wear out over time. In this case, liquids can oxidize the underlying metal: if this happens, the only remedy is to proceed with a new plating. It is better not to expose gold-plated jewelry, by whatever method it was made, to prolonged contact with water.

Bracciale bronzo placcato oro
Gold plated bronze bracelet

Vermeil. Same goes for the plating: vermeil, in fact, is gold-plated silver. It is considered a fairly refined formula, but it is easy to damage the plating, perhaps with small scratches that can put water in contact with the silver.

Anello Round Trip in vermeil
Vermeil Round Trip ring by Charlotte Chesnais

925 silver or sterling silver. It is the purest silver, a rather robust metal, but which can lose its sheen patina on prolonged contact with water, especially in environments such as swimming pools, or with solvents used for cleaning. Occasional contact with clean, unsalted water does not have a negative effect, but the jewel can be damaged if it comes into contact with sunscreen, perfumes or other cleaning substances. On the market there are also jewelry with 075 silver, which contains germanium, which prevents oxidation and can help preserve the metal with its original appearance. It is a little more resistant, but up to a certain point.

Collana in argento della collezione Amatum
Silver necklace from the Amatum by Pianegonda collection

Brass. It is a fairly robust alloy, but it can oxidize on prolonged contact with water. Brass can corrode due to the components of zinc, copper and tin. In this case the metal becomes progressively blackish, green or blue, with an oxidized coating which, however, can be removed.

Anello in ottone
Brass ring by Ambush

İTÄ from the Grand Bazaar to the Caribbean

Roommates at Syracuse University. And, then, friends and partners of İTÄ, a jewelery brand that forms an unprecedented bridge between Puerto Rico, a Caribbean island that is now part of the United States, and Turkey. The protagonists are Inesita Capó and Äfet Burcu Salargil. Before dedicating herself to jewelry, Inés worked in fashion journalism and Äfet in fashion design. For almost twenty years, the paths of Inés and Äfet have crossed and separated. But travel together, cultural exchange and friendship in 2019 convinced them to embark on the adventure. The technology has helped to fly over the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea.

Anelli in oro 14 carati con diamanti
14 carat gold rings with diamonds

İTÄ Fine Jewelry’s jewelry is made of 14K yellow, white or rose gold and uses enamel or gemstones. The jewels are handmade in the company’s ateliers near the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. As in the Caona collection, a word believed to mean gold in the Taino language used by the Indian populations of the Caribbean. The jewels are inspired by shells and pre-Columbian art objects. But the brand’s collections also include classic jewels such as a lucky charm, such as those inspired by the shape of the eye.

Collana in oro con ciondolo della collezione Caona
Gold necklace with pendant from the Caona collection
Orecchino singolo Tona in oro e diamanti
Tona single earring in gold and diamonds
Anello in oro 14 carati della collezione Caona
14-karat gold ring from the Caona collection
Anello Acu (occhio) con pavé di zaffiri blu e ametista
Acu (eye) ring with blue sapphire and amethyst pavé
Äfet Burcu Salargil (a sinistra) e Inesita Capó
Äfet Burcu Salargil (left) e Inesita Capó

Thais Bernardes, the Brazil studied Italy

Thais Bernardes, the jewels of Brazil that have a little bit of Italy ♦ ︎

There are many Brazilian citizens of Italian origin. But there are also designers who simply take an example from Italians, those who work in jewelry. This is the case of Thais Bernardes, who says: “I learned from the Italians to value details and invest in quality. My jewels follow a contemporary style for women who want, at the same time, to dictate fashion with elegance and lightness “.

Collana di Thais Bernardes indossata
Collana di Thais Bernardes indossata

The founder of the brand that has her name, among other things, was born and grew up in Minas Gerais, the place that is the largest producer of natural gemstones among the Brazilian states.

And growing in contact with the stones for jewelry gave her a decisive imprinting. Although she started her career as a model. Then, however, she studied gemology and jewelry design, with a specialization in Fashion Brand Management in Milan. Finally, in 2015 she founded the brand Thais Bernardes, now also at VicenzaOro September. Her jewels are all made of silver, gold and precious and semi-precious stones, “where the Italian workforce combined with the Brazilian tradition creates inimitable objects”.

Choker con pappagallo, argento e cubic zirconia
Choker with parrot, silver and cubic zirconia
Anello in argento, smalto e zirconia cubica
Ring in silver, enamel and cubic zirconia
Anello in argento, rodiato o placcato oro e zirconia cubica
Ring in silver, rhodium plated or gold plated and cubic zirconia
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con smalto verde e zaffiro
18K yellow gold ring with green enamel and sapphire
Orecchini in oro rosa 9 carati con smalto verde e zaffiro giallo
Earrings in 9 carat rose gold with green enamel and yellow sapphire
Anello in oro rosa 9 carati con smalto nero e peridoto
Ring in 9 carat rose gold with black enamel and peridot

The two-tone rings by Fope Essentials

Why choose between rose gold and white, or between pink and yellow, when you can wear both colors together? The solution identified by Fope is to create jewels composed of gold of two different nuances. We are talking about the Essentials collection, introduced in 2021, which immediately represented a great success thanks to the transversal nature of the Flex’it rings and earrings. Two years later, the Venetian jewelery house presents an extension of the jewelery line with new rings. They are extremely versatile jewels, which use the Novecento knit technique.

Anello in oro bianco e giallo
Anello in oro bianco e giallo

White and yellow gold ring
White and yellow gold ring

As in the other Fope jewels, the patented Flex’it system allows the rings, offered in three different thicknesses, a pleasant flexibility, with a better wearability of the jewel, which adapts better to the size of the fingers. the combinations are white and yellow gold, white and pink gold, pink and yellow gold: the texture of the metal is divided into two colors in the middle of the circumference.
anello ro bianco rosa 1
Ring from the Essentials collection in white and rose gold

Stud earrings with diamonds
Stud earrings with diamonds
Hoop earrings in white gold
Hoop earrings in white gold

The Baroque sea of ​​Massimo Izzo

The unique jewels of Massimo Izzo, jeweler and sculptor of Syracuse inspired by tradition and the Mediterranean Sea ♦

About Massimo Izzo wrote also the New York Times. From Syracuse to Manhattan distance it is great. Yet the fame of the Sicilian jeweler is like the waves that start at one end of the earth and through all the oceans. The marine metaphor is no accident: the jeweler-artist is, in fact, an admirer of the waves and nature hidden beneath the sea surface. Most of his creations, celebrated around the world and sold in the two boutique in Syracuse and Milan, is dedicated or inspired by what the sea offers. Recently Massimo Izzo was invited by Elisabetta Cipriani gallery, London to create a series of works following his original aesthetic and superb craftsmanship which would further push his imagination and creativity. The result is six rings of great impact, made with blackened silver, sapphires and hypnotic opals.

Sciara, Blackened-silver, Australian opal, blue-sapphires ring
Sciara, Blackened-silver, Australian opal, blue-sapphires ring

A truly amazing story, that of Izzo. Born in Messina, but grew up in Syracuse, he said that at 14 he was already fascinated by jewelry. Before moving on international stage, he start from the art school of the State of Syracuse, where he followed an experimental program in jewelery, and has worked for Salvatore Cassone, the largest jeweler in Syracuse. After learning the craft to the bottom, the Sicilian designer has soared thanks to an unusual order: the engraving of a silver plate on the occasion of the visit to the city of Pope John Paul II.

Blackened silver, Mexican Fire opal, orange sapphires ring
Blackened silver, Mexican Fire opal, orange sapphires ring

He has also worked with another famous Sicilian, the Oscar-winning director Giuseppe Tornatore, who commissioned the jewelry worn by Monica Bellucci in the film Malena. The jewels of the Sea collection are made in 18 carat gold and represent octopuses, sea urchins, crabs, starfish. All pieces are refined and processed rhapsody of colors and shapes, often using raw gemstones: resemble most to sculptures than simple jewelery. His work has been compared to that of another great Sicilian jeweler Fulco di Verdura, although the style is completely different. Sure, you can read in the work of Izzo a scent of Sicilian Baroque architecture that gave an impression of entire neighborhoods of the island city. And it is a style that has fascinated, according to his account, even Santo Versace, Tim Burton and JK Rowling. It is not hard to believe.

Golden sea urchin shell with diamonds
Golden sea urchin shell with diamonds
Anello per due dita Cut not Cut con diamanti taglio brillante e una acquamarina naturale brasiliana
Cut not Cut two finger ring with brilliant cut diamonds and a natural Brazilian aquamarine
Collana con ciondolo della collezione I Gioielli del Mare. Oro bianco 18 kt, diamanti taglio brillante
Necklace with pendant from the I Gioielli del Mare collection. 18 kt white gold, brilliant cut diamonds
Orecchini con cavalluccio marino in oro rosa e diamanti
Seahorse earrings in rose gold and diamonds
Collana con antico corallo di Sciacca, oro e acquamarina brasiliana
Necklace with ancient Sciacca coral, gold and Brazilian aquamarine

The secrets of black gold

How do you transform gold, which is yellow in nature, into a black metal? This is how black gold is obtained and how to clean it ♦︎

Gold in nature is yellow. But for some time now, jewelry has also loved to use gold with different colors. The main ones, in addition to the natural color, are the rose gold and white gold alloy. But that’s not all: there are many colors of gold, which depend on the metals with which it is melted. One of the main ones is the black, or blackened color.

Also read: The 9 colors of gold 

Collezione Imperium, anello in oro nero, diamanti bianchi e rubini
Ortaea, collezione Imperium, anello in oro nero, diamanti bianchi e rubini

Among the colors used for gold there is also black. It is almost a paradox, because gold, unlike silver or iron, does not oxidize in contact with air. But the idea of wearing black gold appeals to many women and to many designers who make jewelry with this dark shade of metal.

But not all black gold is the equal. To transform yellow gold into dark metal there are several methods. This also means a different duration or strength of the gold color.

Anello per lo zodiaco cinese, Cavallo
Anello in oro nero per lo zodiaco cinese, Cavallo

The first way is to create a patina by applying compounds containing sulfur and oxygen or ruthenium.
Another system is to proceed with a chemical deposition with steam: it is obtained with the use of amorphous plasma and carbon. Finally, gold can be induced by artificial oxidation with an alloy of cobalt or chromium, usually at 25%. At this point this alloy is brought to a high temperature until a black black oxide layer is formed.

Anello Dawn, in oro nero, diamanti, perle di Tahiti, granati e citrini
Anello Dawn, in oro nero, diamanti, perle di Tahiti, granati e citrini

High tech method

The same effect is obtained by combining gold in alloy with copper, iron or titanium or with a mix of three different metals, for example 75% gold, 15% cobalt, 10% chrome. However, by changing metal, the dark shade of gold can tend to brown or green.

On the other hand, there is an ultra-technological treatment, which involves the creation of nanostructures on the surface, but it is rarer. This is how it is obtained: a laser pulse hits the gold for the duration of 1 millionth of a billionth of a second. A minimal duration, which however deforms the surface of the metal creating an area that absorbs practically all the light, which thus appears as black. But it is a system hardly used in jewelry.

Deefine, orecchini in oro rodiato nero, diamanti neri
Deefine, orecchini in oro rodiato nero, diamanti neri

How to clean the black gold

Cleaning a jewel in black gold is simple: just immerse it in a bowl with a little warm water and a few drops of liquid soap. After about ten minutes, the jewel can be cleaned with the help of a soft-bristled toothbrush. Rub carefully, especially if gold is plated: the surface may be damaged. Finally, rinse. It’s better to avoid stress on jewels with particularly delicate stones, such as the opal, or pearls.

Collezione Staple, orecchino in oro annerito e diamanti
Repossi, collezione Staple, orecchino in oro annerito e diamanti
Anello Crescendo Flare, in oro annerito lucido e diamanti
Kat Kim, anello Crescendo Flare, in oro annerito lucido e diamanti
Anello in oro rodiato nero e diamante nero
Borgioni, anello in oro rodiato nero e diamante nero
Anello della collezione Just Rebel Star, in oro nero e diamanti gialli
Anello della collezione Just Rebel Star, in oro nero e diamanti gialli

How to recognize if a jewel is gold

Raise your hand if you don’t have at least one gold jewel. A ring, a pair of earrings, a gold necklace or bracelet are perhaps the most common gift that is reserved for anniversaries or special occasions. But are you sure that the jewel is real gold? There are several ways to recognize if a jewel is made of real gold.

Orecchini e collana in oro
Gold earrings and necklace

1. Check the carat indication
Gold jewelry is often marked with hallmarks that indicate the purity of the gold. The most common hallmarks are 14K, 18K and 24K, or Ct for an Italian jewel. K or Ct denotes carats, the measure of gold purity. 24K gold is pure gold, while 14K gold is 58.3% gold and 18K gold is 75% gold. The hallmark should be in another inconspicuous location. If you want to know more about gold karats read here.

Questo anello in oro della francese Marie Mas indica l'oro 18 carati con il numero 750
This gold ring from the French Marie Mas indicates 18k gold with the number 750

2. The magnet test
Gold is not magnetic. So if a piece of jewelry is attracted to a magnet, it’s not made of real gold. However, keep in mind that other metals, such as stainless steel or silver, are also non-magnetic, so this test alone isn’t always reliable. But it is still an attempt that can be made.

Collana e orecchini Lunaria Alta indossati
Worn Lunaria Alta necklace and earrings by Marco Bicego

3. The nitric acid test
This test can determine the purity of gold. A small hidden scratch is made on the jewelry and a drop of nitric acid is placed on the mark. The color of the scratch after the acid has been applied will indicate the purity of the gold. However, this test can damage your jewelry, so it should only be done by a trained professional.

Anelli della collezione Anime indossati
Rings from Leonori’s Anime collection worn

4. The density test
Gold is a dense metal, so it will weigh more than most other metals of the same size. A jeweler can perform a density test by measuring the weight of the jewel and calculating its density. However, this test requires specialized equipment, so it may not be within your reach.

Collana Ivy in oro rosa e diamanti indossata
Ivy necklace in rose gold and diamonds by Nanis worn

5. The skin test
Genuine Gold Does Not Cause Skin Reactions or Discoloration: If you wear your jewelery and observe skin reactions it is likely that the jewelery is not made from genuine gold. However, keep in mind that some people may have allergic reactions to other metals, such as nickel, which may be present in gold jewellery, especially older ones.

Collezione Crescendo di FerrariFirenze, gioielli indossati
Crescendo collection by FerrariFirenze, worn jewels

In summary, to recognize if a piece of jewelry is made of real gold, you can check for hallmarks, do a magnet test, do a nitric acid test, do a density test, or do a skin test. However, some of these tests may require specialized equipment or skills, so it is best to have them performed by a trained professional.

Dune Velaa Pavé by Annamaria Cammilli, gold bracelet worn
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