The auction house is set to auction a collection of 300 jewels, vanity cases, and gold boxes in Geneva.
Major jewelry auctions are back. On November 10 in Geneva, Christie’s presents *Exceptional Jewels & Objects of Elegance: A Connoisseur’s Collection*, a private assemblage comprising nearly 300 20th-century jewels, alongside Art Deco vanity cases and gold boxes from the 18th and 19th centuries. Assembled over more than forty years with a collector’s eye and a curator’s sensibility, the collection reflects a commitment to excellence. The owner sought out only the finest gems and most exceptional creations, acquiring masterpieces from renowned jewelers such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Graff, Bulgari, and David Morris. With an estimated value exceeding $25 million, the collection ranks among the most significant to appear at auction in recent years.
This exceptional collection, assembled and cherished over generations, reflects a legacy of remarkable discernment, refined taste, and an enduring appreciation for timeless beauty. Impeccably curated by a distinguished family of connoisseurs, it brings together celebrated creations from leading jewelry houses alongside delicate masterpieces of extraordinary craftsmanship. It also includes a rare and remarkable collection of Art Deco vanity cases and exquisitely crafted gold boxes, each exemplifying the pinnacle of artistry and innovation.
Rahul Kadakia, President of Christie’s Asia Pacific and President of Christie’s Luxury
A highlight of the collection is a selection of eight masterpieces by Van Cleef & Arpels created using the “Mystery-Set” technique—some of the Maison’s most celebrated and technically sophisticated creations. Patented in 1933, this setting technique allows gems to be mounted without visible prongs, creating unbroken expanses of color. Leading the collection is the *Oiseau Mystérieux* (Mysterious Bird) brooch in rubies and diamonds (estimated at $600,000–$1,000,000); an iconic theme for Van Cleef & Arpels since the 1920s, the bird of paradise has inspired some of the Maison’s most celebrated creations. Purchased directly from Van Cleef & Arpels in the early 2000s, this brooch represents one of the most refined and sophisticated interpretations of the motif. Highlights include a *Fuchsia* brooch featuring the Mystery Set (estimated at $400,000–$600,000), a pair of *Cadix* ruby earrings ($300,000–$500,000), and a Mystery Set ruby ring ($50,000–$70,000). The selection of Mystery Set jewelry also includes sapphire pieces, showcasing the versatility and mastery of the Maison’s famous technique. Together, these jewels demonstrate Van Cleef & Arpels’ exceptional command of color, design, and technical innovation.
The collection features exceptional diamonds and colored gemstones, notably a 14.63-carat fancy orange-pink diamond ring by David Morris ($1,600,000–$2,600,000) and a pair of emerald and diamond earrings by Graff, each weighing over 17 carats ($900,000–$1,500,000). Other highlights include the iconic Bulgari Trombino ring, featuring a magnificent 14.38-carat Burmese ruby (estimate: 700,000–1,200,000), and a pair of oval sapphires weighing 20.60 and 18.99 carats, set in stunning diamond-accented earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels (estimate: 600,000–800,000).
The auction also features a selection of gold boxes and cosmetic cases. A standout group includes highly sought-after Cartier cases, which showcase the Maison’s mastery of the decorative arts. Created from the 1920s onwards, these objects draw inspiration from diverse artistic traditions—ranging from Chinese lacquerwork to Japanese decorative arts—all executed with exceptional attention to detail. Ingenious mechanisms, balanced hinges, and exquisitely designed interiors further demonstrate the technical sophistication for which Cartier is renowned. Rounding out the collection are exceptional gold boxes, snuffboxes, and pillboxes dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. Many are embellished with finely carved hardstones, cameos, and elaborate enamelwork, testifying to the artistry of goldsmiths, jewelers, and silversmiths at the height of their craft. Adorned with Oriental scenes, floral motifs, and mythological subjects, these exquisite objects reflect the refinement, technical mastery, and artistic excellence that define this collection.
