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Bolaffi auction with 726 jewels

Quality jewels at auction in Turin. The Bolaffi headquarters will host the first major autumn sale in Italy on Thursday 12 and 13 October, in person but also online. Also because there are many lots for sale: 726, including rare and antique jewels from an important Lombard collection and private contributions, as well as creations by designers who have marked the history of Italian fashion, such as Missoni, Versace, Lancetti and Roberta of Camerino.

Anello in platino con smeraldo colombiano taglio rettangolare a gradini di 10 carati
Platinum ring with 10 carat stepped rectangular cut Colombian emerald

In the first session, among the top lots stand out the pendant earrings in diamonds and natural pearls by Bulgari (lot 386), which start from a starting price of 25,000 euros. From the same maison, a rare pair of 18K yellow gold bracelets with wavy linear elements (lot 385) and a precious rose gold watch bracelet, with fan-shaped links adorned with diamonds. Also up for auction are jewels by Buccellati, Cartier, Pomellato, Van Cleef & Arpels as well as several lots of diamonds of various carats and cuts.
Devant de corsage settecentesco in oro giallo lavorato a sbalzo e ornato di diamanti taglio rosa simile a quello conservato al Metropolitan di New York
Eighteenth-century devant de corsage in embossed yellow gold and adorned with rose-cut diamonds similar to the one preserved at the Metropolitan in New York

Among the ancient jewels, two eighteenth-century devant de corsage stand out: one made of yellow gold and emeralds (lot 276), the other in embossed yellow gold and adorned with rose-cut diamonds (lot 277) similar to the one preserved at the Metropolitan in New York. Also up for auction is a precious archaeological style choker, with semiprecious stone carvings (lot 85) and a diamond and pink conch pearl brooch (lot 94). Also of interest are the sapphire and diamond clip earrings from the 1940s (lot 97) and the unheated diamond and blue sapphire bracelet from Sri Lanka (lot 98). The second part of the auction takes place online on Friday 13th and is made up of 340 lots of vintage jewels ranging from the 19th and 20th centuries.
The lots will be exhibited to the public on Tuesday 3 and Wednesday 4 October 2023 (10-13/14-18) at the Sala Bolaffi (Turin, V.Cavour 17) and from Saturday 7 to Wednesday 11 October 2023 (10-18) at ‘Hotel Four Seasons (Milan, V. Gesù 6).
Antica spilla in zaffiri blu e diamanti
Antique brooch in blue sapphires and diamonds

Spilla in diamanti e perle conch rosa
Brooch in diamonds and pink conch pearls
Orecchini a clip in zaffiri e diamanti
Sapphire and diamond clip earrings

A royal blue diamond at Christie’s

It has a French name and certainly blue blood: the Bleu Royal diamond will be the highlight of the next Magnificent Jewels auction on November 7 at Christie’s in Geneva. It is a big diamond for being among the few with the color of the sea: it weighs 17.61 carats and is the largest Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Blue gem ever to appear for sale in the history of auctions. The gem has been cut and polished into a perfectly symmetrical pear shape. The diamond, which boasts an intense, vivid blue color and impeccable clarity, is among the rarest ever found. The estimate is between 35 and 50 million dollars. Bleu Royal has been part of an important private collection for 50 years now and it is the first time that the stone, set in a ring, will be put up for sale at auction.

This is a true miracle of nature. Throughout our 257-year history, Christie’s has had the privilege of offering the world’s rarest gems at auction, and Bleu Royal continues this tradition. We are proud to offer collectors the opportunity to own a diamond fit for a king.
Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewelery at Christie’s

Rahul-Kadakia durante un'asta di Christie's
Rahul Kadakia during a Christie’s auction

Driven by collector demand and an increasingly limited supply, prices for high-quality colored diamonds have increased exponentially in recent years. In auction rooms, Fancy Vivid Blue diamonds over 10 carats are virtually unknown: in over 250 years of auction history at Christie’s, only three of these stones have ever appeared for sale:
• The 10.95-carat Bulgari Blue sold for $15.7 million in New York in October 2010
• The 13.22-carat Winston Blue, sold for $23.8 million in Geneva in May 2014
• The 14.62-carat Oppenheimer Blue, sold for $57.5 million in Geneva in May 2016

Bulgari Blue
Bulgari Blue
Winston Blue
Winston Blue
Oppenheimer Blue
Oppenheimer Blue

Jewelery and collectible watches in Montecarlo with Artcurial

As always, the Artcurial auction house organizes auctions in the middle of summer. And, as always, they are aimed at those who frequent the Côte d’Azur. In the Principality of Monaco, at the Hotel Hermitage in Montecarlo, auctions of watches and jewelery are scheduled from 16 to 19 July, as well as Hermès Vintage, and sculpture. Each sale will be preceded by an exhibition open to the general public.

Jaeger LeCoultre, Reverso smaltato in collaborazione con l'artista portoghese José de Guimarães
Jaeger LeCoultre, Reverso enamelled in collaboration with the Portuguese artist José de Guimarães

The Horlogerie de Collection auction will feature iconic pieces and particularly rare vintage watches. The catalog includes a Panda version of the famous Rolex Daytona, with a cream dial and black counters, a vintage piece from 1968, ref. 6239, in excellent condition, today almost impossible to find on the market. Also on sale is a Speedmaster model by Omega made especially for the Raid, the elite unit of the French police. This edition was designed in 2018 by the Parisian watchmaker Antoine de Macedo in collaboration with Omega. In 2021, again at an Artcurial auction, a similar watch was sold in favor of police orphans for the sum of 70,000 euros. Also for watches there is a brand like Jaeger LeCoultre and his Reverso, the company’s best-seller for over 90 years, which is part of a private collection, belonging to a fan of the genre. The collection includes ten original Reversos, such as a rare enamelled model, created by Jaeger LeCoultre in 2003 in collaboration with the Portuguese artist José de Guimarães.
FP JOURNE, Tourbillon Souverain - 2007, Orologio da polso in platino con secondi morti, tourbillon e riserva di carica
Fp Journe, Tourbillon Souverain – 2007, Platinum wristwatch with dead seconds, tourbillon and power reserve

A second piece, produced in 1996 in a limited edition of 25, features an enamelled miniature of a painting inspired by the Czech painter Alfons Mucha. It is estimated at 12,000-18,000 euros. A Rolex/Comex Submariner ref. 16610 supplied to Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise de Marseille will likely be one of the most sought after dive watches of the sale. It is an interesting piece for any professional watch enthusiast.
Van Cleef & Arpels, bracciale art déco a nastro in platino con zaffiri e diamanti, 1925 circa
Van Cleef & Arpels art deco ribbon bracelet in platinum with sapphires and diamonds, circa 1925

For jewels, the catalog includes pieces from important jewelery houses such as Piaget, Chopard and Van Cleef & Arpels. Under the lens, jewels such as the Mauboussin Art Déco brooch in platinum, gold, carved emeralds and diamonds from 1930 (20,000-30,000 euros), or a platinum ring with a pear-cut diamond of 8.44 carats, certified Lfg, Color I, VVS2 purity, no fluorescence, type IIa (60,000-80,000 euros). Van Cleef & Arpels, on the other hand, presents, among other things, a platinum ribbon bracelet with sapphires and diamonds, around 1925 (25,000-30,000 euros).

Anello in platino con diamante taglio a pera
Pear cut diamond ring in platinum
Orologio pendente Cartier in oro giallo e diamanti
Cartier pendant watch in yellow gold and diamonds

For sale is the historical medallion of George III

For history buffs, but above all for British royals, Christie’s is on sale on 6 and 7 July in Bayreuth (Germany) a series of pieces that belonged to George III, King of Great Britain and Ireland between the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (1738-1820 ). Objects in silver and gold are on sale (201 lots in total), but also from a pendant containing a rare medallion commissioned by his wife, Queen Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz (1744-1818) married at 17, as a gift to friends who had remained faithful during King George III’s illness. Medallion made to celebrate the recovery of the king in 1789. Although, in reality, recovery was only a hope. The story of George William Frederick of Hanover, king from October 25, 1760 has been quite difficult.

George III by Sir Thomas Lawrence, Royal Collection
George III by Sir Thomas Lawrence, Royal Collection

Of German origin, he was also Duke of Brunswick-Lüneburg and Elector of Hanover. He was the third ruler of Great Britain of the House of Hanover, but the first to be born in England and to use English as his mother tongue. The problem is that in 1765 he started showing signs of insanity, which got worse over time. Perhaps a consequence of porphyria, a hereditary blood disease Or, according to others, the king fell ill eating sauerkraut cooked in lead pots, a poisonous metal. More recent analyzes have found a high concentration of arsenic on samples of the king’s hair. In any case, the king’s eldest son, George Augustus Frederick, Prince of Wales, ruled as regent for seven years from 1811 until his father’s death.

 Charlotte von Meclemburgo Strelitz
Charlotte von Meclemburgo Strelitz by Thomas Gainsborough

The locket, however, follows an announcement from Queen Charlotte that the king had recovered. Announcement greeted with celebrations and Parliament congratulating the King on 10 March, the date commemorated on the medallion. The medallion was presented by Queen Charlotte on 19 March 1789. It was later surmounted by an enamelled crown, encrusted with diamonds, rubies and emeralds.

Scatola in oro e smalto appartenuta a re George III
Gold and enamel box appears held by King George III
George III enamelled two-colour gold freedom box with mark of James Morisset, London, 1797, offered alongside other presents awarded to Vice Admiral and Third in Command,the Hon. William Waldegrave on 1st June 1797 for the Battle of St. Vincent
George III enamelled two-colour gold freedom box with mark of James Morisset, London, 1797, offered alongside other presents awarded to Vice Admiral and Third in Command,the Hon. William Waldegrave on 1st June 1797 for the Battle of St. Vincent

Christie’s sells magnificent jewels for 62 million

The magnificent jewels of Christie’s in June totaled over 62 million dollars in New York. A result that the auction house considers exceptional. The sales concern The Magnificent Jewels of Anne Eisenhower, the collection of the woman who died in July 2022 and defined as a collector, philanthropist and icon of refinement, in addition to the usual appointment with the Magnificent Jewels. The two sales totaled precisely $62,252,390 and were sold at 117% by lower estimate of the range and 97% by value.

Collana di Van Cleef & Arpels con diamanti e zaffiri appartenuta a Anne Eisenhower
Van Cleef & Arpels necklace with diamonds and sapphires that belonged to Anne Eisenhower

Anne Eisenhower’s Magnificent Jewels totaled $11.5 million, at 141% from its lowest estimate and 100% by value. The sale included a series of jewels from the most important houses. The top lot was the Jarretière ruby and diamond bracelet, purchased by Marlene Dietrich in 1937 and manufactured by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet realized a price tag of 4.5 million.

Bracciale rigido a forma di tigre di Cartier, com diamanti colorati e gemme appartenuto a Anne Eisenhower
Cartier tiger-shaped bangle with colored diamonds and gems that belonged to Anne Eisenhower

The Magnificent Jewels sale featured a mix of jewels from private collections, along with designer pieces from Cartier, Chaumet, Harry Winston, Jar, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, and Verdura. The auction totaled 50.7 million. The jewels sold at 112% by their lowest estimate and 96% by value. The top lot of the sale was The Light of Peace, which made 13.6 million.

The Light of Peace Diamond, 126,76 ct
The Light of Peace Diamond, 126,76 ct

Anello con diamante colorato, diamanti bianchi e rubino
Anello con diamante colorato, diamanti bianchi e rubino

Collana di Chaumet art déco con diamanti e smeraldi
Collana di Chaumet art déco con diamanti e smeraldi

Ruby record of 34.8 million

Here is the most expensive ruby in the world: it is called Estrela de Fura and was sold in New York by Sotheby’s for 34.8 million dollars during the Magnificent Jewels auction. The stone weighs 55.22 carats and is the largest gem-quality ruby ever to appear at auction. The previous world record was held by the Sunrise Ruby, a 25.59 carat Burmese one also beaten by Sotheby’s in Geneva, in May 2015, for 30.3 million dollars.

Estrela De Fura, 55.22 ct
Estrela De Fura, 55.22 ct

Estrela de Fura was made from a rough ruby weighing an exceptional 101 carats, discovered and extracted in July 2022 in the Fura Gems ruby mine in Montepuez (Mozambique), one of the largest ruby deposits in the world. Its quality makes it a particularly rare ruby.

The outstanding result obtained today is not only a source of pride for us, but represents a milestone in the incredible journey of our company which, in just five years, has grown in an extraordinary way. Today, thanks to Estrela de Fura, we have gone down in history: we have set a new world record by selling the largest and most precious colored stone ever presented at an auction. With its 55.22 carats Estrela de Fura is a true wonder of nature, a sensational stone, with perfect color and exceptional clarity that fully represents the extraordinary quality of Mozambique rubies and sets a significant precedent for Mozambique rubies, elevating them to the state of those Burmese. This stone was a gift of nature for Fura, a gift that is granted only once in a lifetime, an acknowledgment of the hard work that the whole team carries out every day. On this occasion they cannot fail to thank the communities and the Government of Mozambique for their continuous support.
Dev Shetty, Founder and CEO of Fura Gems

Dev Shetty
Dev Shetty

Fura Gems is a mining company active in the extraction and marketing of colored gemstones rubies, emeralds and sapphires, founded just five years ago. It is headquartered in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, and has over 1,600 employees on all continents. It operates with three operating branches in Colombia, Mozambique and Australia, for emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Fura will donate 2% of the proceeds from the sale to the creation of the Fura Training Academy in support of the community in which it operates in Mozambique.

We witnessed a historic sale: a ruby from Mozambique as well as one of the most extraordinary and important stones ever beaten at an auction. Estrela de Fura 55.22 literally leaves you enraptured. With its unprecedented size, its extraordinary color and the extremely rare degree of transparency and purity, it set a new world record and has today officially become the most legendary colored stone in the world.
Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby’s Jewelry, America

Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby's Jewelry -Americas &- Emea, versees sale of Estrela de Fura
Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby’s Jewelry -Americas &- Emea, versees sale of Estrela de Fura

The Eternal Pink and other jewels

Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction also had other exceptional pieces up for sale, such as The Eternal Pink, the most vivid pink diamond to ever hit the market, which sold for 34.8 million. In total, the auction reached $95.9 million, the highest figure ever for any jewelry auction ever organized by Sotheby’s in New York. It was also the first auction with two gems selling for over $30 million in the same sale. 91% of all lots found buyers, with over two-thirds of lots sold fetching prices above their high estimates. The sign of the times: more than a third of the lots were purchased online.

The Eternal Pink
The Eternal Pink

Today’s record result is a direct reflection and further confirmation of Sotheby’s position as the market leader at the top level of the global jewelery industry. We are honored to have brought to auction this exceptional selection of jewels, anchored by several private collections with historic provenances, which includes high quality diamonds, superlative colored gemstones and designer jewelery from the most esteemed houses. We look forward to continuing in our tradition of offering the rarest and most spectacular jewels to our worldwide clientele; this remains at the heart of what we do at Sotheby’s.
Catharine Becket, Head of Magnificent Jewels, New York

The Eternal Pink was the other major attraction of the auction. The vivid pink diamond set a new record price per carat of $3,292,763, which is now the second-highest price per carat for a pink diamond, just after the Williamson Pink Star, which sold for $57.7 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in October 2022.

Cartier, sapphire and diamond ring
Cartier, sapphire and diamond ring

Among the other magnificent jewels on sale were 11 pieces from the collection of Constance Prosser Mellon and Constance Barber Mellon, sold at 100% for a total of 6.9 million. The collection included a sapphire and diamond ring by Cartier, which fetched $3.3 million after a lengthy five-minute battle between eight bidders. Weighing 33.51 carats, this extremely rare sapphire is of classic Burmese origin, has no indication of heating, and possesses a royal blue color. Also from the Constance Prosser collection, a magnificent sapphire and diamond necklace created by Cartier in the 1950s has found a buyer for $2.8 million. The necklace is set with five Kashmiri sapphires, totaling approximately 34.95 carats, and is further accented with round, baguette and square cut diamonds.
Cartier, sapphire and diamond necklace
Cartier, sapphire and diamond necklace

Collector’s watches at Cambi’s auction

Charmed watches for collectors: the Milanese Cambi Casa d’Aste is organizing the sale. The sale is scheduled for Thursday 15 June, in the via San Marco headquarters at 3.00 pm. Up for auction is a collection of unique pieces made by international brands such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, along with a number of independent brands.

Rolex sportivo modello Submariner del 1957
Rolex Submariner 1957

Among the top lots there is a neovintage monopusher chronograph made in platinum around 1991 by Daniel Roth with a limited edition of only 16 pieces: it has a dial with satin and guilloché workmanship, Roman numerals and visible caseback (Estimate: 25,000 – 50,000 euros). Another prominent piece is a rare Rolex sports Submariner model from around 1957, in steel with leather strap, glossy black gilt dial, radium buckshot, patent oversized crown, never polished steel case, a rotating bezel with red triangle to signal the at 12. (Estimate: 50,000 – 80,000 euros).

Audemars Piguet in acciaio inossidabile appartenuto all’ex pilota austriaco di Formula Uno Gerard Bergher
Stainless steel Audemars Piguet that belonged to Austrian former Formula One driver Gerard Bergher

There is also a Royal Oak Jumbo D Series from around 1979, produced by Audemars Piguet in stainless steel, and which belonged to the Austrian former Formula One driver Gerard Bergher, winner of ten Grands Prix. The watch has an octagonal case, a Petit Tapisserie blue dial and is accompanied by the original box and guarantee (Estimate: 35,000 – 50,000 euros). Also noteworthy is a rare chronograph with two counters with push buttons signed Omega, Chrono 33.3 model, which stands out for its three-tone gray Lemrich dial, Roman numeral hour digits, manual winding caliber 33.3 and stainless steel case. steel with waterproof screw-down caseback. (Estimate: 12,000 – 18,000 euros).

Omega Chrono 33.3
Omega Chrono 33.3

Finally, another Rolex, the coveted Cosmograph Daytona made in steel around 1965 with an extraordinary Bakelite bezel and millerighe screw-down pushers, a silver Grené dial and contrasting black counters. (Estimate: 55,000 – 80,000 euros).
Rolex Cosmograph Dayton
Rolex Cosmograph Dayton

Precious auction for Pandolfini

Auction of jewels and watches with good results for Pandolfini, a Florentine auction house. The selection of jewels, selected by the head of the Cesare Bianchi department, were hammered out in the historic headquarters of Palazzo Ramirez Montalvo. As regards the Jewelery department auction, 92% of the lots were sold for a total of 2.8 million euros and a 185% increase on the starting estimates. The 18-karat white gold ring with a fancy blue diamond stands out above all, sold for 376,000 euros.

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con solitario taglio brillante di 7,03 carati
Ring in 18K white gold with a brilliant cut solitaire of 7.03 carats

An 18-karat white gold ring with a 7.03-carat brilliant-cut solitaire fetched €163,800 and a pair of platinum earrings with Burmese rubies and diamonds found a buyer for €138,600. At the watch auction, 111 out of 124 pieces were awarded, 90% of the lots, for a total of 1.2 million and a 125% increase on the starting estimates.

Orecchini in platino con rubini birmani e diamanti
Platinum earrings with Burmese rubies and diamonds

Best performance for the 1971 Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Panda, the watch with a steel case and panda dial sold for 163,800. Among the many lots proposed, we also note the awarding of the 1979 Rolex Daytona Big Red, sold for 85,680 and the 1979 steel and gold Patek Philippe Nautilus Jumbo, with monobloc steel case, smooth yellow gold bezel and steel and gold bracelet. 18-karat yellow gold sold for 78,120 euros.

Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Panda
Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Panda

The Bulgari Laguna Blu sold at Sotheby’s for 25 million

A $25 million blue diamond. This is what an anonymous buyer paid over the phone for the Bulgari Laguna Blu, auctioned by Sotheby’s in Geneva. The sale of Magnificent Jewels totaled $85 million, the highest value since May 2018 at the Geneva Jewelery Sales. The 11.16-carat fancy-vivid blue diamond is now the largest blue diamond in a Bulgari jewel and the most valuable Bulgari gem ever offered for sale.

Bulgari Laguna Blu, 11,16 ct
Bulgari Laguna Blu, Fancy Vivid, 11,16 ct

Created in 1970 by Bulgari as a ring, when Bulgari was emerging as the most influential and innovative Italian high jewelery house, diamond is a rarity: it is an 11.16-carat Fancy Vivid blue, among the rarest gems in the world, it is a Bulgari signed jewel, and is unmodified, meaning that its current cut, produced in 1970, could be further enhanced by modern cutting methods to unleash its full potential as a gem.
Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby’s Jewels Americas
Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby’s Jewels Americas

It has been a privilege to witness the glamorous and exciting journey of the Bulgari Blue Lagoon over the past few months, knowing it was first created in 1970, up until its most recent appearance at the Met Gala where it dazzled on the red carpet, set in a Bulgari custom made necklace worn by Priyanka Chopra Jones. So, it is a special moment to see the journey of this extraordinary gem take yet another new turn, this evening in our auction room, into the hands of its first new owner in over 50 years. The Blue Lagoon sale surpasses the outstanding performance of our Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale which saw exceptional colored gemstones, particularly emeralds and yellow diamonds, surpass their high estimates, so spectacularly. There is no doubt that the Fine jewelry of the highest quality can still fetch sky-high prices.
Olivier Wagner, Head of Jewellery, Sotheby’s Geneva

Impressive Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Blue diamond ring
Impressive Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Blue diamond ring

Sotheby’s Geneva’s auction saw over half (53.4%) of all lots sold above the high estimate and virtually all lots sold fetched prices within or above the estimates (97%).

The Bulgari Laguna Blu was auctioned last in the second session of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, following a series of spectacular sales of designer jewelery and exceptional gemstones. After a four-minute bidding battle between three telephone bidders and one bidder in the room, he finally found a buyer over the phone.

Harry Winston, Impressive padparadscha sapphire and diamond necklace
Harry Winston, Impressive padparadscha sapphire and diamond necklace

Colored gemstones, and especially colored designer jewelry, had a stellar night with nearly a quarter of all lots selling above already high estimates, led by sales of yellow ruby, emerald, sapphire and diamond jewelry and rose. For example, a Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Diamond ring was sold for $11.7 million, purchased by Diacore. The same company was awarded another Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond ring, for 1.3 million.
Sapphire and diamond pendant
Sapphire and diamond pendant

Natural pearl and diamond necklace
Natural pearl and diamond necklace

A super diamond for peace at Christie’s auction

In times when cannons sound instead of words, invoking peace is salutary. Even through a diamond. The Light of Peace Diamond, (estimate: $10-15 million) is a D-color, internally flawless, type IIa, pear-shaped brilliant cut diamond weighing 126.76 carats. The gem is the star of the Magnificent Jewels auction organized by Christie’s on June 7 in New York. The auction also includes jewels from private collections signed by Cartier, Chaumet, Harry Winston, Jar, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Verdura. The complete selection will be displayed before the sale as part of Christie’s New York Luxury Week from June 2 to June 6.

The Light of Peace Diamond, which is offered without reserve, was formerly known as the Zale Light of Peace, owned by Texan jewelers Zale Corporation of Dallas. The Zales family chose this name along with a fund for peace support missions alongside philanthropic donations. A portion of the proceeds from the sale will be donated by the current owners to the United States for UNHCR, the United Nations Refugee Agency.

Diamante blu vivido fantasia di 3,10 carati
diamond 3.10 carats, Fancy Vivid Blue, VS2 clarity, Type IIb

More diamonds

In addition to the pacifist gem, the auction includes other diamonds, including a 3.10-carat fancy vivid blue diamond ring (estimate 4,200,000-5,200,000), a 50.40-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond pendant ( 700,000-1,200,000), and an elegant ring with a deep pink diamond weighing 4.01 carats (1,500,000-2,500,000). The colored gemstones are represented by a magnificent 71.27 carat Royal Blue Burmese sapphire set in a diamond pendant (3,000,000-5,000,000), a pair of Harry Winston emerald and diamond drop earrings (500,000- 700,000) and a Burmese ruby of 10.17 carats (400,000-600,000).

Van Cleef & Arpels sapphire and diamond mystery-set bracelete
Van Cleef & Arpels sapphire and diamond mystery-set bracelete

The sale features highlights from the collection of Adolphus Andrews, Jr. and Emily Taylor Andrews. The collection is rich in its variety, with an emphasis on color and original design, including an iconic mystery-set sapphire and diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels (250,000-350,000), reflecting the ingenious setting style of the Parisian house. Also featured in the sale is a selection of jewelry formerly from the collection of Betsey Cushing Whitney, the New York philanthropist and socialite known for her exceptional style and taste in her. Offered is a Van Cleef & Arpels Ruby, Emerald and Diamond Necklace and Earrings Set, circa 1970 (400,000-600,000).

Collana di smeraldi e diamanti Chaumet Art Déco appartenuta alla famiglia Rothschild
Chaumet Art Deco emerald and diamond necklace that belonged to the Rothschild family

Rothschilds and Greta Garbo

Also among the jewels for sale is an impressive Art Deco Chaumet emerald and diamond necklace (2,000,000-3,000,000) of the Rothschild family, including the late Baroness Edouard de Rothschild, the late Jacqueline de Rothschild Piatigorsky and the late Jephta Drachman (née Piatigorsky). The necklace was made especially for the family in 1930 and is well documented in the Chaumet archives.

Jar, colored diamond and diamond shell brooch
Jar, colored diamond and diamond shell brooch

On the other hand, seven jewels by Jar that have never before appeared at auction belong to an American collector. Unpublished such as Salvador Dalí’s Étoile De Mer brooch (1,000,000-1,500,000) from an important private collection and previously from the collection of Rebekah Harkness, recently exhibited at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City in 2021 and a Van Cleef & Arpels diamond ring (50,000-70,000) and a Van Cleef & Arpels diamond flower brooch (10,000-15,000) formerly from the collection of Greta Garbo.

Spilla di Salvador Dalì a forma di stella marina con perle, rubini, diamanti e smeraldi
Salvador Dali brooch in the shape of a starfish with pearls, rubies, diamonds and emeralds

The Christie’s auction will also include The Magnificent Jewels of Anne Eisenhower. The top lot of the sale is the iconic Jarretière ruby and diamond bracelet, purchased by Marlene Dietrich in 1937 from Van Cleef & Arpels (2,500,000-4,500,000). Additional highlights include a variety of magnificent jewels, including a rare Art Deco Diamond and Multi-Gem Moonlight Rose bracelet, by Tiffany & Co (500,000-700,000), an Art Deco Diamond Bangle by Cartier (150,000–250,000) as well as an important D-color diamond ring of 20.54 carats (1,200,000–1,800,000).

Diamond pendant necklace
Diamond pendant necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels diamond ring
Van Cleef & Arpels diamond ring

Many jewels up for auction with Cambi

Many quality jewels, from famous brands: there are almost 400 lots that make up the Fine Jewels catalog of the Cambi Auction House. The sale is scheduled for Wednesday 17 May from 11.00 in the Milan office (via San Marco 22, Milan). In the first round of the auction (lots 1/98) period jewels are the protagonists: among the most interesting objects stand out a collection of corals from various periods and origins, a parure of shell cameos depicting famous Italian poets and classical divinities with original case (estimate: 6,000-8,000 euros), and a micromosaic bracelet with views of Rome (9,000-11,000).

Corals and cameos
Corals and cameos

In the second round (lots 99/402) contemporary jewels are on sale, such as the choker from the Serpenti collection by Bulgari (40,000-60,000), a bracelet with amethyst and diamonds by Michele della Valle (6,000-7,000), a convertible diamond sautoir in necklace and bracelets (30,000-40,000) and a bracelet from the Panthère collection by Cartier (10,000-15,000).
Panthère bangle by Cartier
Panthère bangle by Cartier

Among the top lots are a refined tiara in Colombian diamonds and emeralds (20,000-25,000), a ring with a Colombian emerald of approximately 10 carats (50,000-60,000), a brilliant-cut diamond of 3.48 carats (50,000-60,000), a ring with Kashmir sapphire (60,000-80,000) and a brilliant cut diamond of 13.39 carats (70,000-90,000).

Ring with Colombian emerald of about 10 carats
Ring with Colombian emerald of about 10 carats
Ring with a cabochon-cut Sri Lankan sapphire weighing 7.82 carats and diamonds
Ring with a cabochon-cut Sri Lankan sapphire weighing 7.82 carats and diamonds

The shadow of Nazism on Christie’s largest jewelry auction

The largest jewelry auction with the largest shadow in history. The case was raised by the New York Times and concerns the Heidi Horten jewelry auction organized by Christie’s.
The sale, scheduled for May 10 and 12 in Geneva, includes 700 exceptional jewels, including India’s exceptional Briolette, a 90-carat diamond valued at nearly $8 million. The problem that has emerged in recent days is the origin of the wealth of the German Horten family. Helmut Horten, Heidi’s husband, allegedly had close ties to the Third Reich.

Heidi Horten wearing her important pearl necklace. Copyright The Heidi Horten Foundation
Heidi Horten wearing her important pearl necklace. Copyright The Heidi Horten Foundation

Not only. He would have illicitly enriched himself by purchasing companies sold off at bargain prices by Jewish owners, forced to sell under threats. Heidi Horten, who died last year, was married at 19 to Helmut Horten, 30 years her senior. In the 1980s, Heidi inherited almost 1 billion dollars, also spent on collecting magnificent jewels. The expected proceeds from the Christie’s auction are estimated at over 150 million dollars. the record of 137 million established by the sale of Liz Taylor’s jewels in 2011 would be broken. The proceeds from the auction are destined for charity, in particular to a foundation in Vaduz in Switzerland which owns a museum in the heart of old Vienna, as well as to philanthropic initiatives in the medical field. But that hasn’t stopped the controversy.
Collana The Briolette of India di Harry Winston, con diamanti per 90 carati
Collana The Briolette of India di Harry Winston, con diamanti per 90 carati

The secret story

The problems are in the family history. Christie’s itself has admitted that Helmut Horten built his wealth by buying companies of Jews forced to sell by Hitler’s regime. Stephanie Stephan, daughter of a Jewish businessman on the board of an Amsterdam company that was Horten’s target during the Nazis, think philanthropic efforts aren’t reason enough to push through a sale based on these disputes origins of the family fortune. Stephan, a Munich-based journalist, cites the sworn statement of a colleague of his father, according to which Horten had threatened to deport the Jewish owners to concentration camps if they resisted the takeover.

Collana di perle nere naturali appartenuta a Heidi Horten
Collana di perle nere naturali appartenuta a Heidi Horten

According to David de Jong, author of a book on German billionaires, Horten also laid the foundations for his wealth during the Third Reich by buying at a discount from Jews who were forced to sell out. For example, the Alsberg department store in Duisburg, bought for not even 65% of their real value. At the time Horten described the purchase in a Nazi Party magazine stating that the shop had passed into Aryan hands.
Heidi Horten wearing the Briollete of India, Copyright The Heidi Horten Foundation
Heidi Horten wearing the Briollete of India, Copyright The Heidi Horten Foundation

Before she died, however, Heidi Horten had hired a scholar to investigate the family fortune. Research has confirmed that her husband benefited from buying Jewish businesses, but that the level of wealth achieved in this way should not be overstated. Christie’s, to fend off criticism, has pledged to turn over part of the proceeds to Holocaust research and education.

Collana di Bulgari con smeraldi, zaffiri e diamanti
Collana di Bulgari con smeraldi, zaffiri e diamanti

Bulgari Laguna Blu, record diamond at Sotheby’s

The Blue Lagoon is the title of a 1980 film which marked the debut of Brooke Shields. About forty years later the same name returns to the fore: but this time Laguna Blu is the name of the largest blue diamond in a Bulgari jewel, 11.16 carats, auctioned by Sotheby’s. According to the auction house, it will have its world premiere at the Met Gala in New York on May 1, before being displayed and sold at Sotheby’s Geneva Luxury Week from May 12. Estimated price: more than 25 million dollars. The gemstone was created in 1970 and has remained in the same collection ever since, in Europe. It is the first time it has been offered for sale.

Laguna Blu è il nome del più grande diamante blu in un gioiello Bulgari
Laguna Blu è il nome del più grande diamante blu in un gioiello Bulgari

The Bulgari Laguna Blu is an extraordinary jewel in every respect. At 11.16 carats, this unmodified pear-shaped blue diamond received the highest grade for a blue diamond from the Gemological Institute of America, recognizing its mesmerizing color and hue. This true marvel of nature was selected by Bulgari, the prestigious Roman jewelery Maison, over fifty years ago, to create a ring for a demanding private collector, who has kept it ever since. The Bulgari Laguna Blu diamond is destined to become every collector’s dream object and we are delighted that it will be presented for the first time on the ever-anticipated red carpet of the Met Gala.
Olivier Wagner, Head of Jewellery, Sotheby’s Geneva

With the blue diamond Sotheby’s completes a trilogy of announcements for the sale of unique and extraordinary colored gemstones following the recent presentation of the Eternal Pink (estimate over 35 million), the most valuable purplish-pink diamond ever to appear at auction, and the Estrella de Fura 55.22 (estimate over 30 million), the largest ruby ever to hit the market, which will be the protagonists of the Magnificent Jewels auction at Sotheby’s in New York on June 8th.

One of the gem’s pluses is its weight of 11.16 carats, exceptional given that blue diamonds are among the rarest. The blue color is the result of the presence of the trace element boron within the carbon structure of the diamond during its formation deep in the earth’s core. Blue diamonds over 5 carats are rare, those over 10 carats even rarer. Any blue diamond qualified as Fancy Vivid, the most brilliant hue a diamond can display, over 10 carats is indeed extremely rare: Fewer than ten Fancy Vivid Blue diamonds over 10 carats have been auctioned anywhere in the world in the last few decades. , four of the sold by Sotheby’s.

Bulgari has mounted the Bulgari Laguna Blu in an elegant and essential ring, exposing all facets of the stone to their best vantage point, demonstrating the jeweler’s ability to maximize the intrinsic beauty of an exceptional diamond. The jewel has remained in the same family since its acquisition in the seventies. It has been seen by few. In the fifty years since the Blue Lagoon was faceted, diamond-cutting technology has advanced to further enhance colored diamonds by faceting them as modified brilliant cuts to increase the perceived saturation of the color. So this 1970 diamond could be even more brilliant.

La gemma è stata creata nel 1970 e da allora è rimasta nella stessa collezione, in Europa
La gemma è stata creata nel 1970 e da allora è rimasta nella stessa collezione, in Europa

In addition to the Bulgari Laguna Blu, the same client is offering for sale two other white diamonds signed Bulgari, from the same period in the early 1970s: a pear-shaped diamond weighing 12.08 carats (estimate 600,000-700,000 dollars), and a diamond step cut weighing 18.78 carats (estimate 900,000-1,400,000). Also on sale is a fourth stone signed Pederzani, a pear-shaped white diamond weighing 8.33 carats (estimate 350,000-500,000).

Sotheby’s currently sells the record price for a blue diamond for the De Beers Blue, a 15.10 step cut Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, the largest of its kind ever to appear at auction, sold in April 2022, Sotheby’s of Hong Kong for 57.5 million dollars.

Up for auction at Christie’s 25 creations by Jar

The Jewels of a Legend, Jar: born in New York City in 1943, Joel Arthur Rosenthal graduated from Harvard with degrees in art history and philosophy before moving to Paris. And become a jewel artist. And Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction scheduled in Geneva on May 17 will offer the largest collection of Jar jewels ever to be auctioned. After working with Bulgari in New York, Jar returned to Paris, opening her own jewelry store with his partner, Pierre Jeannet, in 1977.

Anello Bonnet con ametista, zaffiri e rubini
Anello Bonnet con ametista, zaffiri e rubini

Jar produces at 7 Place Vendôme, Paris, only about 70 pieces a year, highly sought after by collectors, movie stars and lovers of original jewellery. Christie’s is offering 25 Jar creations, which will become the American designer’s largest collection ever to appear at auction, with pieces spanning 40 years of creativity. The collection has been built up over the last 15 years by a leading art and jewelery collector, who encountered Jar’s art twenty years ago during the major exhibition The Jewels of Jar, Paris which took place in London between 2002 and 2003 at Somerset House. Five years later the collector was able to acquire a first piece of jewelery from the master jeweler and after 15 years of collecting he decided to sell.
Orecchini a forma di foglie di edera con diamanti
Orecchini a forma di foglie di edera con diamanti

Joel Arthur Rosenthal pairs unusual gemstones with nontraditional materials. The quality of his work is reminiscent of 18th and 19th century jewelry. In 2013, Jar was the first living gem artist to be honored with a retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
Orecchini Pansy multigemma
Orecchini Pansy multigemma

Among the pieces on sale is a camellia brooch, which has become a signature design of Jar and embodies the extraordinary attention to detail, which pushes the boundaries between jewelery and sculpture, Also on sale are 15 pairs of earrings, including a third it is also inspired by nature, such as a pair of Geranium earrings in carved nephrite jade and diamonds or the iconic and delicate diamond ivy leaves earrings designed in 1991.

Orecchini Ventaglio con diamanti, zaffiri e smeraldi
Orecchini Ventaglio con diamanti, zaffiri e smeraldi
Bracciale Eye con zaffiri, spinello e diamanti
Bracciale Eye con zaffiri, spinello e diamanti
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e fancy, zaffiri gialli
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e fancy, zaffiri gialli

At auction with Christie’s the largest collection of jewelry

The large collections that belonged to wealthy owners, now disappeared, are one of the sources of jewelry auctions. Like the one scheduled for 10 and 12 May in Geneva under the banner of Christie’s. For sale is jewelry that belonged to Heidi Horten (1941-2022). Austrian billionaire and art collector, Heidi Horten was the wife (32 years younger) of Helmut Horten, founding founder of the German department store company of the same name. In May 2020, Forbes estimated her net worth at $3.0 billion. No wonder art and jewelery were Mrs. Horten’s passions.

Heidi Horten con indosso una collana di smeraldi di 63 carati. Copyright The Heidi Horten Foundation
Heidi Horten con indosso una collana di smeraldi di 63 carati. Copyright The Heidi Horten Foundation

Witness the pre-sale estimate of the collection: over 150 million. It is the largest and most valuable collection ever to be auctioned. Proceeds will help finance the Heidi Horten Estate foundation, established in 2020 to support the museum of modern and contemporary art she founded in Vienna, The Heidi Horten Collection, as well as medical research and other philanthropic endeavors.
Harry Winston, The Great Mughal necklace
Harry Winston, The Great Mughal necklace

The World of Heidi Horten is the collection of a lifetime. From Bulgari to Van Cleef & Arpels, from a small personal keepsake to the Briolette of India, this is a collector’s dream. Building on extraordinary early pieces she acquired in the 1970s and 1980s, Ms. Horten has continued to grow and curate her sophisticated collection, eloquently combining vintage and modern designs from the world’s leading jewelery houses that today represent some of the finest examples never to come to the market.
Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewelery at Christie

Rahul-Kadakia durante un'asta di Christie's
Rahul Kadakia durante un’asta di Christie’s

But let’s talk about the jewels. The most valuable pieces reported by Christie’s include Harry Winston’s 90-carat diamond Briolette of India necklace, originally sold by Cartier in 1909, a three-strand natural pearl necklace, also by Harry Winston, highlighted by a pink diamond clasp in the shape of a cushion of 11 carats (estimate 7-10 million dollars). Another top piece is the 25-carat Sunrise Ruby and Diamond ring by Cartier, pigeon’s blood color and exceptionally pure (estimate 15-20 million dollars). Also by the American jeweler are an exceptional diamond bracelet (estimate 5-7 million dollars) and The Great Mughal Emerald Pendant Necklace, again by Harry Winston (estimate 500,000-700,000 dollars).
Also noteworthy is a very important selection of Bulgari creations from the 1970s to today, which retraces more than fifty years of craftsmanship of the Italian Maison.
Spilla di Bulgari con diamanti bianchi e colorati
Spilla di Bulgari con diamanti bianchi e colorati

This is a historic moment for Christie’s, for the privilege of offering one of the world’s finest and most important jewelry collections from Europe. Furthermore, witnessing a philanthropic effort of this magnitude is as rare as it is extraordinary. Today, with the establishment of the Heidi Horten Foundation, the late Ms. Horten has created an important framework to ensure the functioning of her museum for decades to come, ensuring the enjoyment of the arts for aficionados around the world.
Anthea Peers, President Christie’s EMEA

Collana e pendenti di Bulgari con zaffiri, smeraldo e diamanti
Collana e pendenti di Bulgari con zaffiri, smeraldo e diamanti

Christie’s will present 400 of the 700 jewels in two live auctions at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva during Luxury Week this spring, as well as an online sale in May, followed by another online sale in November 2023. Part 1 of the The auction series will begin on Wednesday, May 10, followed by a live auction of Part II on Friday, May 12, 2023. The first online sale will open on May 3, running through May 15, followed by a second online sale in November offering the remaining jewels of the collection.
Spille di Van Cleef & Arpels e Bonvin
Spille di Van Cleef & Arpels e Bonvin

Collana di perle a tre fili di Harry Winston
Collana di perle a tre fili di Harry Winston
Anello con diamante rosa di 20 carati
Anello con diamante rosa di 20 carati
Bracciale di Bulgari con diamanti fancy e smeraldi
Bracciale di Bulgari con diamanti fancy e smeraldi
Collana girocollo di Bulgari con diamanti, zaffiri e smeraldi
Collana girocollo di Bulgari con diamanti, zaffiri e smeraldi

How to choose a sapphire ring

How and why to choose a sapphire ring? Useful tips for buying a ring (but also a necklace, bracelet earrings) with sapphire ♦ ︎

The blue color is beautiful: it is that of the sea, of the clear sky, and also of the most precious sapphire. But you probably know that sapphires are a stone that is found in other colors, such as yellow, pink, purple. But how to choose a sapphire ring? And how much is a sapphire worth? If you are not an expert there are some aspects that you can take into account before buying a sapphire ring (but the same goes for a necklace, earrings or bracelet). Here are some useful tips, which can help you make the right decision if you want to buy sapphire jewelry.

Anello con raro zaffiro blu non riscaldato taglio cuscino di 12 carati
Anello con raro zaffiro blu non riscaldato taglio cuscino di 12 carati

1 Check the provenance. Knowing where a stone comes from is essential. For example, for sapphires, the origin of the stones is particularly important. Sapphire is extracted in many parts of the world, but not all stones are the same: there are the very rare sapphires from Kashmir, or from Burma (Myanmar) or mined in Sri Lanka. They have different prices. For example, the mines of Kashmir (India) have been exhausted for a century and, therefore, sapphires with that origin are very rare and very expensive. They are also generally considered to be of a superior quality: their color is particularly intense, saturated, with a velvety light that seems to come from within. Burmese sapphires are also similar, but have more glassy, ​​transparent, clear reflections, with a vivid color. Finally, Sri Lankan sapphires are very bright, with an almost liquid reflection with purple points. They also often have a particular crystalline texture that gives a different color intensity when turning the stone in front of a light. Sapphires from Sri Lanka look fresher and more modern than those from Burma or Kashmir. But sapphires are also mined in Thailand or Vietnam, or in Africa, for example in Tanzania, Kenya, Nigeria, Madagascar and even in Montana (United States).

Shaun Leane, anello con zaffiro di 10,53 carati
Shaun Leane, anello con zaffiro di 10,53 carati

2 Warm or unheated. In most cases, sapphires (as well as many other stones) have been heated to make the color more vivid and the gems more transparent. It has been a practice that has lasted for centuries, so don’t be scandalized. If a stone has not been heated and boasts an intense color, however, it is also of greater value. And if a sapphire is not natural and has not been heated, it is usually a quality that is underlined (and charged for) at the time of sale. Normally the stones are always accompanied by the certificate of a gemological institute. Warning: heating the sapphire is not the only way to make the stone better and more salable. Another system consists in filling the micro invoices with synthetic material with the addition of dyes. In this case, however, the stones can be damaged by an acidic substance, for example during cleaning, for example a soap or lemon juice. Therefore, before buying a sapphire, always ask if it has been treated and with what method.

Anello in oro bianco con zaffiro Ceylon, non scaldato, taglio rettangolare di 33,40 carati
Anello in oro bianco con zaffiro Ceylon, non scaldato, taglio rettangolare di 33,40 carati

3 What color. Sapphires are not all blue, the most prized color. There are also yellow, orange, red, purple, green and pink sapphires (one particular particularly fine variety is called padparadscha) and there are even colorless gems like diamonds. In general, however, the value of the stones depends a lot on the intensity of the color. The more the color is intense without compromising the brightness, the more the stone is precious.

Anello con zaffiro rosa naturale circondato da diamanti
Anello con zaffiro rosa naturale circondato da diamanti

4 Beware of defects. If you buy a sapphire ring and the stone is of a certain size it will be easier to check if there are any inclusions inside (and usually very likely to be). The inclusions can be, for example, clear filaments of rutile, which make a stone less precious. Not only that: in some cases these inclusions can threaten the solidity of the stone. If the inclusions are very visible, the price of a sapphire can drop substantially. With one exception: if the inclusions form a kind of star reflected on the surface, a fairly rare phenomenon, in that case the sapphire has a higher value.

Inclusioni in uno zaffiro del Kashmir
Inclusioni in uno zaffiro del Kashmir

5 Make a comparison. Even if a sapphire ring looks beautiful to you, ask to compare it in the light with other jewels. Your jeweler certainly has other sapphire jewels available and a comparison between different stones will make you discover, for example, if the color of your stone is more or less intense. Furthermore, as with diamonds, the quality of the cut matters a lot: usually for sapphires a round or oval cut is preferred. Large stones are also offered with a sugar loaf shape.

Anello con zaffiro taglio pan di zucchero e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro taglio pan di zucchero e diamanti by Viren Bhagat

6 Look at the cut. One of the aspects that can enhance or depress the value of a gem is the cut. A good cut can make a big difference, giving more brilliance to the stone and reflecting the light evenly over the entire gem. Badly cut sapphires also have a lower value. How do you know if a stone is cut well? In fact I am an expert gemologist can immediately see the defects and identify the technical cause of a failed cut. But if you expose the stone to light and compare it to similar ones, you may notice differences in the reflections: choose the brightest.

in platino con zaffiro giallo di 6,01 carati
Anello in platino con zaffiro giallo di 6,01 carati
Anello con zaffiro blu e zaffiri viola
Anello con zaffiro blu e zaffiri viola
Spilla in oro e diamanti con zaffiro viola
Spilla in oro e diamanti con zaffiro viola

Diamonds and jewels up for auction with Bolaffi

About 500 lots with jewels from the nineteenth century to the present day and very diversified auction bases. This is what is included in the catalog of the spring auction of jewelery by Aste Bolaffi on March 28, scheduled in Milan, at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (via Andegari 9), while on March 29 it will be in live internet mode on the Aste Bolaffi. www.astebolaffi The sale is preceded by the exhibition open to the public from Friday 24 March until the day of the auction (Sunday excluded) at the Bolaffi headquarters (via Manzoni 7).

Spilla in corallo, diamanti e zaffiro blu di Cartier
Spilla in corallo, diamanti e zaffiro blu di Cartier

The selection of diamonds includes the top lots of the sale, including an unmounted 9-carat diamond, F color, VVS2 clarity, accompanied by a Gia certificate (lot 298, starting price 260,000 euros) and a diamond necklace of 36 total carats of exceptional color and purity (lot 297, base 65,000 euros). Also in the catalog are Tiffany, Bulgari, Cartier and Pomellato jewels and an interesting collection by Orisa Torino from the 1940s to the 1960s.
Collana con zaffiri colorati e diamanti
Collana con zaffiri colorati e diamanti

Collana in oro giallo 18 carati di Pomellato
Collana in oro giallo 18 carati di Pomellato

Girocollo con diamanti, zaffiri, rubini e smeraldi intagliati a forma di foglie
Girocollo con diamanti, zaffiri, rubini e smeraldi intagliati a forma di foglie

At Sotheby’s a collection with jewels by Andrew Grima




A new online jewelry auction is scheduled for February 9 at Sotheby’s. The auction includes 276 pieces, mostly made by famous Maisons, such as Cartier, Van cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Tiffany. But the sale also presents an unprecedented opportunity for those who love Sixties and Seventies design. In the catalog, in fact, there are also about ten jewels by Andrew Grima. It is a single owner collection which is now being offered for sale and which features jewelery by the Italian-British designer.

Rhodonite ear clips 1971
Orecchini in oro e rodonite, 1971

Grima, born in Rome, developed his business in London and is considered a jewelery revolutionary. Probably also because his training was far from gold and diamonds: Grima studied mechanical engineering in London and was part of the Royal Engineers during the Second World War. A strange coincidence then led him to deal with accounting in the jewelery company of his wife’s father and, from there, to the design department. The imagination and innovative solutions in the creation of jewels made him famous and appreciated by the royal family, as well as by celebrities of the time. He has been considered the progenitor of modern jewelry, no longer anchored to the traditional style. A path that is testified by the jewels on sale, pieces that remain extraordinarily avant-garde even after half a century.
Andrew Grima
Andrew Grima

Orecchini in oro con perle e diamanti, 1997
Orecchini in oro con perle e diamanti, 1997
Anello con acquamarina e zaffiri
Anello con acquamarina e zaffiri, 1960
Anello con smeraldo e diamanti, 1968
Anello con smeraldo e diamanti, 1968
Spilla in oro con diamanti e perla, 1986
Spilla in oro con diamanti e perla, 1986
Spilla in oro e diamanti, 1960
Spilla in oro e diamanti, 1960







Kim Kardashian buys the cross worn by Diana




It seems like news made to warm the hearts of those who follow social media: the Atallah Cross, worn by Princess Diana, was sold for $197,453 to Kim Kardashian. The American celebrity, through a representative of hers, outbid four other buyers during Sotheby’s Royal and Noble sale. The jewel’s price represents more than double its pre-auction estimate. The cross, as we have already told here, was owned by the former CEO of the Asprey & Garrard group, Naim Attallah.

Kim Kardashian
Kim Kardashian

The Atallah cross features floral details and was created in the 1920s by the court jewelers Garrard. The cross was purchased in the 1980s by Naim Atallah and thanks to his friendship with Princess Diana, he was able to lend it to her several times over the course of several years. Princess Diana wore the jewel several times, as evidenced by the October 1987 photo, on the occasion of a charity gala in support of Birthright, a charity that works to protect human rights during pregnancy and childbirth. After her death the jewel was never seen in public again.
La principessa Diana indossa la croce Attallah
La principessa Diana indossa la croce Attallah

The cross pendant is a bold and colorful piece featuring square cut amethysts and accented with round cut diamonds. The cross has a total diamond weight of approximately 5.25 carats and measures approximately 136mm x 95mm. Princess Diana had a long-standing relationship with Garrard, having chosen her engagement ring from them in 1981.
La croce, oltre alle ametiste, ha circa 5,25 carati di diamanti
La croce, oltre alle ametiste, ha circa 5,25 carati di diamanti

L'Attallah Cross
L’Attallah Cross







An octagonal emerald likes Paris




Time to take stock of the world of auction sales. Christie’s Paris Joaillerie’s online jewelry sale totaled 7,860,006, averaging pre-auction estimates, which included 286 lots. Bidders from 40 countries won 42% of the jewels offered above the maximum estimate. The auction featured a selection of vintage pieces by, among others, Belperron, Boivin, Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, Jar, Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as contemporary designers.

Collier con pendente che può essere indossato anche come spilla con uno smeraldo colombiano di taglio ottagonale da 12,284 carati e diamanti vecchio taglio
Collier con pendente che può essere indossato anche come spilla con uno smeraldo colombiano di taglio ottagonale da 12,284 carati e diamanti vecchio taglio

The sale also included jewels from collections of private collectors, with a special focus on Art Deco jewels by Cartier, retro jewels by Van Cleef and Arpels and Lacloche, pieces by Suzanne Belperron and René Boivin and a selection of jewels by René Lalique. The top lot proved to be a necklace with a pendant that can also be worn as a brooch with a 12.284-carat octagonal-cut Colombian emerald and old-cut diamonds: it was sold for 604,800 euros, against a maximum pre-sale estimate of 250,000 euros.
Collana con diamanti, oro giallo 18 carati, circa 1950 di Boucheron
Collana con diamanti, oro giallo 18 carati, circa 1950 di Boucheron

Spilla di perle naturali e diamanti dell'inizio del XIX secolo
Spilla di perle naturali e diamanti dell’inizio del XIX secolo
Diamante taglio brillante a pera di 8,59 carati, oro bianco 18 carati
Diamante taglio brillante a pera di 8,59 carati, oro bianco 18 carati
Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo di 8,01 carati e diamanti circolari
Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo di 8,01 carati e diamanti circolari
Diamante taglio brillante a losanga modificato di 15,84  carati su anello di Cartier
Diamante taglio brillante a losanga modificato di 15,84 carati su anello di Cartier
L'attrice americana Sarah Rafferty indossa la collana con smeraldo colombiano e diamanti
L’attrice americana Sarah Rafferty indossa la collana con smeraldo colombiano e diamanti

Spilla con rubini e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels
Spilla con rubini e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels







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