Milan Design Week is back and so is the exhibition of the finalists of the Contemporary Jewelry Contest at the Rossini Gallery (13 April – 4 May, Viale Monte Nero, 58, Milan). The exhibition includes the display of over 50 contemporary jewels made by artists from Italy and abroad. The curators Marina Chiocchetta and Sonia Patrizia Catena have selected unique and versatile, multifaceted and heterogeneous pieces, born from the research and creativity of Italian and foreign designers, goldsmiths and artists. The exhibition aims to take stock of the state of the art of jewellery.
The selected authors, in some cases, propose jewels that challenge the traditional perception of wearability, incorporating interactive or transformable elements that involve the user in a unique and engaging experience. The authors are Adagio Lab, Basia Arte Gioielli, DarioJewelDesign – Dario Gargiulo, Flora Sica, Patrizia Giachero, Kleo Glens, Kolata Design, Lalice arte orafa, Lamb Gioielli di Laura Agnello Modica, Local Heavens, Magistri Gioielli, MagmaLab, Maiesta, Mari Design, Marion Sterner, Paola Cisterni, Andrea Scarpa, V Design Lab Jewellery.
The finalists were chosen by two juries, one inside the gallery and one external, made up of curators, art experts, teachers and designers. The winners, proclaimed during the inauguration of the exhibition on Saturday 13 April, will be offered the possibility of a personal exhibition in the Rossini Gallery, the opportunity to exhibit at the Bijou Museum in Casalmaggiore, at the Spazio Heart in Vimercate and at the Spazio E in Ghemme .
During the exhibition, the artist’s jewels of Gioi Giulia Vignetti, winner of the Rossini Prize, proclaimed during the opening evening of Redefining Jewellery, a project now in its 9th edition and of which the gallery has been a partner since 2012, will also be on display. the sculptural works of the artist Chiò.
The surprising jewels of Studio Renn
There is no country more fond of its traditions than India. And there is no country so surprising in the innovation of India (except the US). One of the surprises, as far as jewelry is concerned, is called Studio Renn. The name already portends a different path from that of traditional jewelers. And it is not surprising that Studio Renn won the Couture Design Award in the Best Innovative category in 2021.
Studio Renn is based in Mumbai and was founded in 2018 by Rahul and Roshni Jhaveri. They are two jewelers who love contemporary art, of which they are collectors. And this passion is reflected in the unique pieces they make. Renn, a word meaning rebirth, is the guiding star of the creative process. So: restart, innovation, breaking of habits and no perfection. Yes, instead to unusual materials and innovative shapes. In short, a process similar to that of the artistic composition of a work of art. Reflections, volumes and voids take precedence over tangible materials, is the philosophy of the two designers.
A collection called (An) otherness, for example, was conceived in collaboration with the artist Prashant Salvi. And there is also a concrete ring made in collaboration with Material Immaterial Studio, which creates functional objects in concrete and precious stones. Or earrings set with diamonds that show the hidden side, usually the back of the stones. Nothing is impossible and nothing is impracticable for Studio Renn.
Rosa Van Parys between architecture and jewelry
Often jewelers are inspired by architecture, especially for art deco jewels. But it is quite rare for a jeweler to also carry out the profession of architect. And this is precisely the story of Rosa Van Parys, who reached the final in the Best in Pearls category at the Couture Design Awards. Yet jewelry was not a casual choice nor a forced one. The Rosa Van Parys architecture and design studio was successful when she decided to launch her Maison in 2017 and her first high jewelery collection.
The Ecuador-born designer studied in Europe, graduated in architecture and in the United States from the Harvard Graduate School of Design and now lives and works in Westlake Village, a suburb north of Los Angeles. It goes without saying that her jewels retain an inspiration linked to geometry and architectural design. The focus, in fact, is on composition, balance, shape, symmetry and color. Pearls are a key element for the designer, who has also launched pieces of a line of men’s jewelry, which also includes elaborate dagger-shaped pendants. Also because, even though she designs jewelry, Rosa Van Parys has not abandoned the activity related to architecture: she, together with her husband, directs a ten-person studio.
Perhaps creativity cannot be transmitted genetically, but growing up between two famous architects can be useful for developing one’s aesthetic sense. And this is what Lavinia Fuksas, daughter of Doriana and Massimilano Fuksas, two internationally known Italian designers, can tell. Lavinia, however, followed her path. And she is now considered one of the emerging jewelery brands. Merit, if one can say so, also of the lockdown period caused by the covid, which has allowed a time for reflection and planning for the long-held idea of tackling the jewelery market.
Furthermore, one of the characteristics of Lavinia Fuksas jewels, based in Rome, is that they are designed indifferently for men or women. Gender fluid is a trend and, on closer inspection, for jewelry designers to propose rings or earrings without distinction of gender is a great saving and an excellent opportunity.
The designer’s style is a road with two points of arrival and departure. On the one hand there is the architectural geometry, daughter of the cultural environment in which the designer grew up, on the other the effort to make the figures of triangles and rhombuses, which recur in the collections of Lavinia Fuksas, ductile and not too rigid. She also reveals it with the choice of one of her collections, Jaipur, inspired by the atmosphere of the Indian capital city of gold and gem processing.
In 2017 it won the Design Couture Awards in Las Vegas in the People’s choise category. And in 2021 Mariani 1878 did it again, this time in the Best in Gold category. The Maison based in Monza, a town a stone’s throw from Milan, is preparing to celebrate 150 years of a life full of awards, which testify to a goldsmith’s skill across the board. The previous prize, for example, was awarded thanks to Pon Pon, a three-dimensional drop pendant with 27 carats of very high quality diamonds. in the jewel each diamond was set individually and inserted in a sort of network that surrounds the central solitaire.
A jewel, the one presented at the Couture, which seems to have also enticed Melania Trump, at the time first lady with domicile in the White House. On the other hand, Mariani jewels in the US have also convinced celebrities Sylvester Stallone and Denzel Washington, in the mood for gifts to their partners.
Four years later, however, it was been a pair of long earrings with a burnished gold and diamond link that convinced the jury. The Maison, as its name indicates, was founded in 1878 and is managed by the brothers Carlo and Federico Mariani, graduates in economics and masters in gemology, under the guidance of their father Giuseppe Mariani, direct descendant of the founder Camillo Mariani.
Hannah Martin, pride and Rock N ‘Roll
The limited edition of fine jewelry by Hannah Martin, in London ♦
The Central St Martins School in London deserves a medal (in gold, of course) to be an inexhaustible factory of high-level designers. One is Hannah Martin (almost the same name of the school, coincidentally), who started working as a consultant for other luxury brands in Paris, Place Vendôme area. Inevitably, then she harnessed her capacity with a brand that bears her name, along with business partner, Nathan Morse.
In 2005 she founded in London her brand. Her philosophy, a little ‘surprise, it’s based on three pillars which at first glance are not all connected with the jewelry: authenticity, creativity and honesty. Three important values, as essential stylistic choices, combined with the focus on the technical aspects of implementation. Many pieces are made to order, others are limited editions. Each piece is handmade by the best craftsmen in London, in the laboratory of the company or through an intricate network of specialists in Hatton Garden “We are unabashedly proud of our direct link with the historic nature of the trade,” is the comment by Hannah Martin. The results give the reason. As the It’s Only Rock N ‘Roll collection, which has its references from the idea of a youth style.
JMG, design without borders
JMG: a small Maison that focuses entirely on design and which can be summed up in one name, José María Goñi. After the mandatory stop caused by the pandemic, the brand has returned to its niche market with a presence in Vicenzaoro. The perfect opportunity, according to the designer, to present the Pentagono collection, which brings together jewels defined by the Maison as pieces with “bold and geometric shapes, full of life and vivid colors”. A description that corresponds to reality. Each jewel is handmade, using only the highest quality materials such as 18-karat gold and vvs1-colored G diamonds. Not only. The brand also stands out for its use of large semi-precious stones, such as amethyst, cut with fancy, unusual shapes. The jewels are unique pieces, intended for those with a passion for jewelry.
José María Goñi is a Franco-Chilean designer who learned the secrets of the trade across the United States, Argentina and France, where he studied jewelry at the Sorbonne, experimented and was inspired. His bio tells that he has always been a lover of fine jewelry, since he was a child, and that his half-French, half-Japanese grandmother Harriete Hou Carrier owned a fabulous collection of jewelry that sparked the imagination of José María as a child. The Maison is based in Bangkok, where the designer creates his new collections, with which he won the 2019 Luxury Lifestyle Awards.
The jewels that speak with Kendra Pariseault
Creative jewels, designer jewels, jewelry that reminds of voices. They are those of Kendra Pariseault ♦ ︎
You can find runners not only in the morning in city parks or engaged in a marathon. There are also runners who prefer to engage in other speed competitions. For example, with a trunkshow on Moda Operandi even before having a fully functioning website. This milestone (it was May 2019) is reach by the runner-designer Kendra Pariseault, the new rising star of US design. His work, which has just begun, has already been promoted with flying colors. All that remains is to follow his career.
Kendra Pariseault grew up in Rhode Island, attended Skidmore College where she specialized in Gender Studies and art and then jewelry at the Rhode Island School of Design. Later, he worked for Calvin Klein and David Yurman, where he discovered the world of colored stones. She is also co-founder and creative director of the low-priced jewelry line Kendra Phillip. Now, instead, with his brand Kendra Pariseault Jewelry, he aims higher, at more expensive and refined jewels. Without forgetting what his interests are outside of jewelry: fashion, femininity and feminism. And some esoteric aspects: he claims to have recorded the voice of a deceased on his cell phone and, from this experience, he has drawn some jewels that represent sound waves. Pariseault also creates personalized bracelets with the sound wave of a word or a sound at the request of a customer. His jewels cost between $ 5,000 and $ 50,000.
Sean Gilson, amazing design
The innovative jewels, without excesses, by the American designer Sean Gilson ♦ ︎
Designer? Artist? Artisan? What is the right definition to define Sean Gilson? Meeting him is not easy: he is usually in his laboratory in a small town in Connecticut, USA. Although every so often he goes to New York for some workshops or for extraordinary events, as it was for GemGèneve, where Sean Gilson was present in the Designer Vivarium area.
The difficulty of meeting this eclectic jewelry artist is also due to his way of working: he personally creates the finish of the jewel. Pieces that are often surprising. As for the earrings presented at the Swiss event, made with a particularly delicate stone, together with white gold and blue sapphires: a piece of virtuoso jewelry. To achieve the desired effect the American designer also uses different techniques and combines traditional tools with more modern ones. The result is innovative, modern jewels that do not lose their wearability. “A jewel should never scream if there is the integrity of design, materials and craftsmanship,” says Gilson.
The design of Vram
The wearable sculptures of Vram, a Los Angeles jewelry brand with a Couture Award ♦ ︎
In 2018 he won one of the Couture Awards in the Best in Debuting category. But, to be honest, Vram Minassian was been a debutant just for the Wynn stage in Las Vegas, where the show took place. Because Vram, Maison of Los Angeles, debuted in 1985. The common thread of this brand has always been the search for a sophisticated, very modern and cool design. The ring awarded to Couture is an example: the volume is simple and at the same time refined, with the yellow gold that is interrupted in two ovals that show a surface paved with green tourmaline. And in 2023 Vram collaborated with Platinum Guild International for a special Chrona Butterfly ring, created for Las Vegas Couture.
The choice is to offer jewelry that resemble small modern sculptures. But there are also collections that are inspired by elements of the body, for example the bones, as in the case of the Chrona Hypercuff bracelet reminiscent of the vertebrae line. Vram’s jewels are destined to have an ever-growing public: for many years the Maison has produced only unique pieces, on request, or for third parties. For the past few years, however, Vram has taken to the field with collections for a wider audience, even if selected. The recognition at the Couture Awards is a result.
The links of Salima Thakker
Salima Thakker, perfect example of cultures that meet: the designer was born and works in Antwerp, an Indian father and a Belgian mother. Antwerp is the European capital of diamonds and jewels were an irresistible temptation for Salima Thakker, moreover to join with the world of art: she studied at the Royal Academy in Antwerp and earned her Master’s degree at the Royal College of Art in London, where she consolidated his profession and passion for design. So much so that she later became a teacher at the Academy of Fine Arts, with which she still collaborates. But her jewelry house came after a collaboration with Damiani, in Milan, about twenty years ago.
An experience that helped her to open her workshop and shop in Antwerp, making the jewels herself. The designer describes her work as the result of an intertwining, a shared culture between different ethnic origins, which are a fusion of world culture. She uses only ethically traceable stones, gems and diamonds, and her jewelry is now sold worldwide, including New York, Hong Kong and Antwerp.
Busatti in Milan is a historic name in jewelry. It has now doubled. A branch of the family has decided to focus decisively on research and innovation and has created its own brand: Busatti 1947. After a few months of life it already boasts a prestigious recognition: second place in the Best in Diamonds Above $40,000 Retail category at Couture Design Awards. Merit, precisely, of a decisive push towards a strong design and a choice of materials that is unusual in many respects. Behind all this are the brothers Lalla and Davide Busatti. The family history goes back to when the grandfather, Antonio Busatti, began traveling to Japan after the Second World War to buy pearls.
His son, Luigi, continued the business with gems. Lalla (designer) and Davide Busatti (who selects the gems) represent the third generation, who have decided to introduce jewels with their own brand to the precious stones trading business. But, as mentioned, putting a lot of innovation into it. For example, in introducing unusual materials, such as carbon fiber to make a super resistant resin, which is combined with gold and diamonds or cacholong. The high-end jewels have already been presented at the main international jewelery fairs, from Las Vegas to Dubai, Geneva and Hong Kong.
The refined design of Paola Brussino
There are those who limit themselves to re-proposing small variations of the same subject. And who, like Paola Brussino, sets out on unexplored roads. Choice of materials and extraordinarily effective design constitute the map of the Turin architect and designer, who in her long career has collaborated with international jewelery brands and the most prestigious niche maisons. Her bio states that her work has been exhibited in various European countries, Qatar, Japan, Russia and the United States. After having lived for a long time in Geneva, she returned to Italy in 2012 and began a path of pure research.
One of the aspects that characterize Paola Brussino’s jewels is the choice to work with elements such as carbon, titanium, zirconium and corian in high jewellery. Zirconium, for example, is a metal with an appearance reminiscent of titanium. It is mostly made from zircon and is very resistant to corrosion. It is used in nuclear plants and, now, also in the designer’s rings and earrings.
Furthermore, the roots that sink into design and architecture have directed Paola Brussino’s jewelery towards jewels that express rigor and fantasy at the same time, lightness and luxury, but with defined and pleasant, natural and elegant geometries.
Annette Welander to infinity and beyond
Swedish design is appreciated all over the world for its ability to synthesize aesthetics and practicality. And this is also the key to understanding the jewels of Annette Welander, a designer born in Gothenburg and then moved to the capital, Stockholm. The jewels of the new collection, Lemniscate combine the idea of the purity of geometries inspired by architecture to transform themselves into jewels in a creative way. The word lemniscate in algebraic geometry indicates one of the many inverted eight-shaped curves, also used to indicate infinity.
The Lemniscate collection presents a complex construction of each of the pieces, made thanks to the craftsmanship and design skills. The style is also the result of the designer’s studies, who specialized in art history at the University of Gothenburg, then at the business school of the Institute for Higher Marketing and finally at the Berghs School of Communication in Stockholm, graduating in communication , branding and design. In short, the right mix before founding her Maison in 2018.
The gold is worked as a continuous piece by the house craftsmen, with a feminine, artistic and sinuous shape. The pieces in the collection are crafted in Stockholm with 18-karat ethical gold and Top Wesselton VVS diamonds (EF colour) from sustainable sources. The diamonds are displayed in a set which allows light to flood both sides of the diamonds, to enhance the reflections. The jewels are exclusively handmade to order.
Lunati’s star continues to shine
Lunati turns 85, but enjoys excellent health. The Valencian company was founded in 1937 by Pietro Lunati and continues to produce high quality jewellery, in perfect Valencian style. Which means precision, luxury, creativity interpreted with the long artisan tradition of jewelers and goldsmiths. The company produces classically made jewellery. They are unique pieces, or in small series for the simpler ones. The traditional style is reinterpreted in a modern key, but without exaggerating: even the jewels with colored gems are composed in a balanced way.
Lunati Gioielli continues the path of Pietro who, together with his brother Giulio, made the company take off, which is now led by his son, Giovanni Luca Lunati, director. Gioele, Piero’s nephew, marketing and communication expert, has decided to start selling some collections online. The production of brooches after World War II was soon joined by the creation of necklaces and rings, which were also very successful on the markets of Austria, Germany and Switzerland. The company can also boast the 160 AL mark to mark the production as a guarantee of authenticity of the jewels.
There is a high jewelery shop that lives in Brussels. In the capital of Belgium, Fred Fa paints, designs and produces exceptional jewels, and if you are not planning to pass through the city you can take a look at the privilegecreation.com website. In his studio, the Belgian jeweler-artist imagines high-end jewels, starting with sketches drawn in pencil: a skill that, by now, few can boast. But this does not exclude the use of new technologies, such as the use of 3D design programs or the use of lasers. In short, freedom and creativity.
We must not confuse Fred Fa with that type of high jewellery, sometimes a little boring, which re-proposes traditional patterns and shapes. His jewels are unique pieces that do not give up on trying new paths. It is no coincidence that he calls himself an explorer in the world of jewelry. Known by true connoisseurs, Fred Fa created his studio-laboratory in 2009. The passion for jewels, he says, follows that for drawing, a path that began at the age of 16 and perfected by studies to combine the artistic vein with the ability to create jewelry world. Once designed, the jewels are crafted by a network of trusted artisans in Brussels.
The new amazing design A.Win Siu
In just a few years, China has become one of the countries with the highest concentration of jewelery designers. But not only. In addition to the many jewelers who more or less follow the classical tradition, creative designers such as Xiao Xintong have taken the stage, choosing A.Win Siu as the name of her Maison. The designer, who participated in GemGèneve, is a jewelry artist, but also an illustrator. Fantasy-themed designs are a source of inspiration for equally imaginative jewelry. The latest theme of her collections is called Light. But the light is seen through the colors of the gems and titanium, a metal which, in addition to being light, also allows us to take on surprising shades.
Xiao Xintong uses her imagination to create jewels such as candy-shaped brooches, which contain precious gems inside them. Or a titanium ring, with spessartite, and mother-of-pearl inspired by ancient petroglyphs discovered in China.
The designer founded her own jewelry brand in November 2017 and a year later she has designed over one hundred pieces with a very personal style. In 2019 she went to France to follow courses in goldsmith craftsmanship and luxury brand management. She was invited to participate in the China International Consumer Products Expo (Hainan Expo) in May 2021 and launched a co-branded jewelry collection with Korean artist Kim Jung Gi. Her bio also mentions her participation in the special fashion and design exhibition Peridot – The Gift of Hope, hosted by the Shenzhen Jewelry Museum in August 2022 and her contribution to The Joy of Color – The Evolution of Jewelry in the Era of the Metaverse and Nts’s in 2023.
The three-dimensional innovation of Yael Kaduri
Who said that in the world of jewelry there is no room for invention? Perhaps thanks to technology, if combined with a good dose of creativity. An example of this is Yael Kaduri, a 3D jewelry designer who boasts a very personal path halfway between art and goldsmithing. Although, in truth, her focus is not centered on precious materials, but on the possibilities that 3D printing offers when combined with traditional craftsmanship. Yael also teaches at the Bezalel Academy of Arts & Design in Jerusalem, holds degrees in jewelry and fashion, and teaches as an assistant professor at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. In short, an eclectic creativity, also testified by the passion for the connection between music and visual arts.
Jewels are a world apart. According to the Yael, jewels combine concentration, accuracy, enigmatic essence and delicacy with communication and body awareness. “The main sources of my inspiration are the natural worlds and aesthetic ideals of traditional Japanese craftsmanship,” she adds. Yael Kaduri’s work is focused, according to her description, on product development in an attempt to come up with some new craft skills to design jewelery using 3D printed polymers, combined with cast metal and traditional goldsmithing. A hybrid object, which she calls digital precious. But even more precious are her innovative ideas.
The ancient but new jewels by Chris Davies
The unique pieces by Chris Davies, a New York designer who uses ancient techniques for his jewelery ♦ ︎
In New York there is a jewel artist who loves to discover and use ancient processing techniques. It is, sure, an attitude not widespread in the city that more than any other is a symbol of dynamism, change, speed. Chris Davies, however, in college has studied ancient civilizations and art history. When he become a jeweler, he decided to combine his passions and creates pieces made up of hundreds of tiny 18-karat gold beads (the granulation technique used in ancient Greece), or he creates jewels with the cloisonné technique, a particular enamelling, difficult realization, which dates back to ancient Egypt, was in vogue during the Byzantine Empire and more recently in China. Technique that used for the recent collection, Silk Road.
An art form which, he explained, will soon disappear, because only the oldest artisans are still able to use. Or Davies weaves 18-karat gold pearls on steel wires. Each piece, he explains, takes two to six months to complete. There are also jewels made of rare stones, selected for their particular shape or appearance: tourmalines, demantoids, citrines (but green), moonstones (but peach-colored), sapphires (but orange) and so on. An example is the Delos necklace, made with the 18-carat white gold granulation technique, hematite, white topaz and blue-green amethyst. Prices? Chris Davies’ jewels are unique pieces, like the price of his jewels: on average from 10,000 to 20,000 dollars.
Jared Lehr, jewels for the stars
The jewels of the stars was signed by Jared Lehr, a designer who is takeing off in Hollywood ♦ ︎
He looks like an actor, lives in Hollywood, attends the world of cinema. Yet it does not participate in films and television productions. Jared Lehr, in fact, is a jeweler. Although he offers his work a broader definition: “I do not make jewels, I make art to wear”, he says without false modesty.
His style? Strong, irreverent, with jewels with irregular shapes, with large stones in bold colors.
The son of a jeweler-architect, Sam Lehr, after attending the Fashion Institute of Technology, in 2015 Jared gave life to his very exclusive brand. It produces a few pieces, but very precious and sold at a consequent price (sometime its jewels exceed 100,000 dollars). Also because he himself often goes to Africa, South America, Asia to select and buy the stones to use. In particular, he loves the family of tourmalines: green, blue, red and pink. In particular, those of the variety indicolite (blue-green): considers them more beautiful than emeralds. His ability to reveal himself sympathetic, his undoubted good looks, together with the ability to enhance the great stones of color that he uses for his jewels have made him rise in the ranking of the favorite jewelers of many stars.