An auction of precious items, featuring gemstones and jewelry from major luxury houses.
Dorotheum will hold a jewelry auction in Vienna on November 19. The sale will feature approximately 150 lots, with a special focus on natural, untreated colored gemstones such as Colombian emeralds and sapphires from Kashmir or Ceylon. Alongside these gems, the catalog includes creations from prestigious jewelry houses and renowned designers—such as Cartier, Bulgari, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co.—as well as pieces by Suzanne Belperron and the celebrated Viennese jewelers Heldwein and Rozet & Fischmeister.
A standout highlight is a Harry Winston ring featuring a 4.61-carat pear-shaped diamond (estimated at €40,000–€60,000). Another ring, also estimated at €40,000–€60,000, showcases an untreated 2.47-carat Kashmir sapphire. Prized for their rarity and distinctive color, Kashmir sapphires hold a special place in the hearts of collectors. Another exceptional piece—a ring featuring a 9.21-carat brilliant-cut diamond solitaire—comes from the historic Viennese jeweler Heldwein (€30,000–€50,000).
The avant-garde jewelry of Suzanne Belperron (1900–1983) captivated the fashion world and was cherished by prominent figures such as Wallis Simpson, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Diana Vreeland. Belperron is considered one of the most innovative designers, representing the transition from Art Deco to modernism. They boldly combined precious diamonds with semi-precious stones such as chalcedony, smoky quartz, and rock crystal. One example is a diamond brooch dating from the period between 1928 and 1955, featuring a pointed, faceted rock crystal (estimate: 15,000–30,000).
The auction also includes a wide selection of Cartier jewelry, such as a dragonfly-shaped brooch set with untreated Ceylon sapphires and diamonds (20,000–40,000), as well as a Cartier London diamond and Colombian emerald brooch dating from around 1920–30 (10,000–20,000). A Wellendorff “Umarme Mich” (Embrace Me) bracelet featuring a 15.07-carat untreated Ceylon sapphire and brilliant-cut diamonds will be offered with an estimate of 30,000–50,000. Finally, a notable highlight is a 1.58-carat fancy light pink marquise-cut diamond, estimated at 40,000–80,000 euros.
Fine Watchmaking
On November 20, Dorotheum will hold its wristwatch and pocket watch auction, featuring approximately 160 timepieces from leading international watchmakers. The selection ranges from rare vintage models to technically sophisticated modern wristwatches and includes prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaquet Droz, Audemars Piguet, IWC Schaffhausen, Cartier, and Omega. An extraordinary highlight is the Jaquet Droz “Loving Butterfly” automaton. This wristwatch, the product of meticulous engineering, combines exceptional craftsmanship with a touch of poetry. The dial features an elaborate scene crafted in 18-karat rose gold, depicting a butterfly pulling a putto in a chariot. The design draws inspiration from the sketch *The Butterfly Following Love*, created by Henri-Louis Jaquet-Droz in 1774 for an automaton. Upon pressing the button on the watch case, the butterfly’s wings begin to flutter and the chariot wheel starts to turn. This engineering masterpiece is number 23 of a limited edition of just 28 pieces produced in 2018 (80,000–160,000). Collectors of vintage Rolex watches might hope to find a rare Rolex Oyster Chronograph dating from around 1946 (25,000–50,000). A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date II with a “Chocolate” dial, from around 2009, is expected to reach a value of 20,000–30,000. A. Lange & Söhne is represented by several exceptional models, including a Datograph Up/Down with an oversized date display, dating from around 2012, and a Lange 1 Time Zone, also featuring an oversized date (30,000–50,000 and 20,000–30,000, respectively). A Patek Philippe Aquanaut with date display carries an estimate of 20,000–40,000.
