Men’s jewelry under the spotlight in a volume (and an exhibition) curated by Mara Cappelletti.
Men used to wear it, but more recently, the habit has become less frequent: jewelry for men, however, is back in fashion. From rapper-style chains to military-inspired tags, to high-end jewelry designed for unisex wear, men’s jewelry is a business as well as a fashion phenomenon.
Now a book explores the history of this jewelry category. The volume, titled The Gentleman. Men’s Style and Jewelry, is edited by jewelry historian Mara Cappelletti and published by White Star. The book follows the exhibition of the same title in Milan, currently underway at Palazzo Morando Costume Moda Immagine until September 27.
The Gentleman explores the role of precious adornment in the world of men: jewelry and accessories have represented, over time, distinctive signs of power, elegance, identity, and social belonging. From 19th-century brooches to cufflinks, from signet rings to contemporary accessories, this volume documents the ongoing transformation of men’s jewelry, blending tradition and innovation. Featuring historic pieces and contemporary creations by Italian and international jewelers and designers, the book presents a carefully curated selection of objects from important private collections, offering a rich and varied glimpse into an often underexplored yet fascinating universe.
The 192 pages are packed with images and insights spanning over three centuries of history, from the 18th century to the present day, intertwining aesthetics, customs, social identity, and the evolution of style. Contemporary styles, languages, and trends are captured in images of jewelry from brands such as Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, and Damiani, as well as creative and artisanal firms including Cusi di Corso Monforte, Grimoldi, James Rivière, Margherita Burgener, Milano Jewels, and Lucilla Giovanninetti.
Today, many pieces of jewelry have transcended the distinction between masculine and feminine, both in terms of shape, size, and materials, becoming genderfluid: the horizons of style are thus broadened through new codes. Modern and contemporary ornaments are created with the intention of designers to celebrate the authenticity of the people who wear them, transcending conventions, prejudices, and trends. They are designed for everyone, without barriers of gender or age.
Mara Cappelletti, curator of the exhibition and author of the book
