The French fashion house’s Signes & Symboles high jewelry collection.
The interpretation of symbols has always been a topic of discussion. But it’s also of interest to humanity, which seeks to find meaning in a symbol even if it has none. In any case, signs and symbols are part of the human universe and are irreplaceable in communication. This sometimes dark and fascinating universe is also the source of inspiration for Chanel’s Signes & Symboles high jewelry collection. The collection consists of 85 pieces. The symbols and signs are those that for some reason have dotted the history of the Maison, such as the camellia, the star, the sun, and the lion, all linked to founder Coco Chanel.
Leo, for example, is the designer’s zodiac sign. The Lion Puissant necklace evokes a lion’s head, crafted with diamonds of different cuts and almost invisible settings. The jewel is further embellished with a 10.25-carat cushion-cut diamond, D color, and Flawless clarity, as well as eight emerald-cut diamonds, D color, and Flawless clarity (VVS), for a total of 8.21 carats.
Symbols and signs have always been attributed with supernatural power. Believe it or not, superstition is the realm of symbols. For this reason, jewelry has often held a talismanic function since ancient times. And the Signes & Symboles collection does not overlook this superstitious aspect, even if it is attributed to the precious gems used. On the other hand, given the price required to obtain one of these jewels, hoping for good luck can also be comforting. The Talisman Graphique necklace, for example, is crafted from white gold, diamonds, and onyx, featuring a 3.05-carat oval-cut diamond, D color, and flawless clarity.
The collection uses semiprecious stones alongside diamonds of various types, creating surprising combinations. Like the Symbole Camélia brooch, which depicts Coco Chanel’s favorite flower, crafted in white and rose gold, with diamonds, rock crystal, and enamel. At its center is a 1.58-carat round brilliant-cut diamond, E color and VVS2 clarity. It can also be worn as a pendant on a necklace.
Stars, meanwhile, are transformed into space-age jewels, like the Symbole Étoile necklace in white gold and diamonds, tanzanite beads, imperial topaz, spessartite garnets, and carnelian. At its center is a 26.21-carat cushion-cut imperial topaz. As is increasingly the case, this is a transformable piece of jewelry: it can be long or short, with detachable sections that become bracelets.
