Voice

Voice did it, a doubt remains




It is easy to imagine the president of Ieg (the company that organizes Vicenzaoro), Lorenzo Cagnoni, last spring in the Hamlet version, while reciting the famous monologue: to be or not to be? That is the question. That is: to be Vicenzaoro, and to propose again one of the most important appointments in the world for jewelry, or not to be and cancel the appointment, as other trade fairs have done? With some courage the company has chosen to be a third way: Voice.

Esterno a Voice
Esterno a Voice

Defined as a jewelry summit, Voice has proved to be first of all an attempt to restart the sector, requested first of all by Italian companies. Being able to set up Voice, despite the health emergency is still a ball and chain for the business, is already a success. Of course, the organizers stressed, we shouldn’t expect it to be was the usual Vicenzaoro with the only difference in the masks to wear. And while many big brands have chosen to be present, others, especially those that sell a lot abroad, have deserted the appointment. It was predictable.
Voice, interno
Voice, interno

But, in any case, the official balance sheet indicates 370 companies present, a hundred speakers in the over 600 business matching meetings organized by Ieg (one third online), with a dense schedule of appointments, seminars, conferences and talk shows. In the virtual buyers rooms, created to make up for the reduced presence of foreign buyers, over 200 commercial exchanges took place. The contents generated in the pavilions have had over 3.5 million views on digital channels. Voice, in fact, blended the physical presence at the fair with online channels. A sober, but not spartan, staging has kept the balance with the atmosphere of challenge to the stop caused by the coronavirus.
Lorenzo Cagnoni, presidente di Ieg
Lorenzo Cagnoni, presidente di Ieg

In short, it went well. But the Hamletic dilemma will arise again shortly, given that the next appointment is called, for now, Vicenzaoro January. To be or not to be? Is it possible to propose a fair like the one in previous years if the pandemic has not completely ceased or, at least, has also been reduced from a psychological point of view? Or will Ieg be induced to re-propose the Voice format? The one held in Vicenza was been the only event dedicated to jewelery from February onwards in the world. It was a risk, but we can say that the game was won. With a little out of wheezing, though.

Una virtual buyer room
Una virtual buyer room

Vetrina di Roberto Coin. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vetrina di Roberto Coin. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Espositore di gioielli Antonini
Espositore di gioielli Antonini

Voice
Voice







The politics of Italian jewelry




“Dear minister, it is time to get busy. Indeed, if the government does not know where to start, we will suggest some ideas ”. This is how we can summarize the appeal launched by the professional and entrepreneurial categories of the jewelry world during Voice – Vicenzaoro International Community Event, the Italian Exhibition Group event inaugurated at the Vicenza Fair (370 companies present). The requests are addressed (in the foreseen digital link) to Luigi Di Maio, Minister of Foreign Affairs and exponent of the 5Stelle movement by Cna Orafi Nazionale, Confartigianato Orafi, Confimi Industria Goldsmith and Argentiera Category, Confindustria Federorafi, Federpreziosi Confcommercio, Assocoral.

Il ministro degli Esteri, Luigi Di Maio
Il ministro degli Esteri, Luigi Di Maio

Free trade
The premise: in the goldsmith sector, as explained by associations, duties and non-tariff barriers prevent the direct marketing of Italian products to areas that represent over 60% of world consumption. Notwithstanding, therefore, the need to strongly relaunch the initiatives at EU level for trade policies aimed at the regulated liberalization of world trade through free trade agreements, the sector considers it important that, in the context of the Pact for Export, some specificities. Here are the initiatives needed for jewelers.
Ingresso a Voice
Ingresso a Voice

• The ratification of Italy’s accession to the so-called Vienna Convention on Precious Metals to facilitate the international trade in objects in precious metals while ensuring adequate consumer protection. The delay in the parliamentary approval process does not allow our companies to use the facilities provided within countries that represent 30% of our exports.
• The strengthening of the preventive and ex-post intervention capacities by the anti-counterfeiting help desks on some strategic markets (USA, Turkey, China, UAE, Russia …) and the activation of help desks for an initial support of companies in disputes with foreign operators.
• The strengthening of agreements with large-scale distribution (in the US and Japan, but not only) which represented, in the pre-Covid phase, a success factor in sectoral incremental business policies.
• The activation through agreements with individual countries, of fast-lines or fast-tracks to allow, in compliance with certain bilateral health protocols, the reduction of the restrictions provided for entry into certain countries. This is to promote the arrival of foreign operators in Italy and facilitate, also through our diplomatic offices, the presence of Italian operators in strategic countries for our exports
• Enhancement of actions to support trade fairs in the sector as well as, again in the B2B area, the facilitation of access for small and medium-sized enterprises to the Maeci / Ice Fiera Smart 365 program as well as promotion and support for less smart companies in the fruition of the agreements started with the main international e-commerce platforms.
• The need to accompany the transversal communication of the Italian brand being set up by Maeci, with a sectoral campaign to have a more surgical impact on international trade.
Vetrina di Coin a Voice. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vetrina di Coin a Voice. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Sustainability and origin of raw materials
The precious sector is one of the most advanced sectors in the field of circular economy and in the recovery and reuse of objects and used metals / materials. Not only that: for over 20 years in the sector policies have been adopted for the traceability of the no-conflict origin of diamonds with the certification of the origin of diamonds (the Kimberley Process) and with the adoption of international regulations also for the origin of precious metals.
Furthermore, from January 2021, the European regulation for due diligence will come into force with the aim of guaranteeing the conflict-free origin of gold. Regarding this, jewelers consider it important to underline some requests.
• Italy strives to extend traceability measures to other competitive global areas (China and India) and to harmonize the parts governed by individual member states (sanctions, thresholds, controls …) at a European level.
• We strongly support Italy’s candidacy as a country of reference at EU level for the issuance of Kimberley Process certifications to propose a European regulation on the correct distinction between natural and artificial diamonds.
• Eliminate customs blocks entering China of Mediterranean Red Coral products (Corallium Rubrum), true Made in Italy, and which are not subject to Cites restrictions.
Interno di Voice. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Interno di Voice. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Tax simplification
The world of gold and jewelery is the subject of special and necessary attention in terms of fiscal controls and procedures created to protect operators and consumers. Sometimes, however, these risk burdening and hindering the production and distribution of goods due to overlapping rules that penalize the competition of our companies. Goldsmith companies consider simplification important.
• Extend the Reverse Charge regime to the jewelery production and marketing chain. Introduce a new text of the law referred to in article 17 co. 5 of Presidential Decree 633/72 in order to introduce the reverse charge regime to all commercial steps within the industrial chain, thus solving many interpretative problems and creating obstacles to tax fraud.
• Amend the methods of application of art. 128, U.C. OF T.U.L.P.S. Administrative or precautionary detention in transactions between operators in the sector represents an obstacle to the circulation of goods without this bringing benefits in terms of traceability. In the BtoB exchange, the operator inherits an operation which is already fully traced in itself and which benefits from an extensive fiscal accounting documentation (transport document / invoice) in some cases, the sale and related transactions between operators could be the subject of other transactions between other subjects belonging to the goldsmith chain, adding, in fact, several times, the administrative or precautionary arrest.

Training
Over the next few years, the Italian goldsmith sector will witness the exit from the world of work of several thousand technical professionals due to their age limit. To date, the generational change of these skills is not guaranteed with the risk of impoverishing a unique wealth of knowledge.
• Re-launch vocational training courses through appropriate information and awareness campaigns (students, parents, teachers).
• Strengthen and finance the presence of higher education projects with particular regard to quality productions in artistic high schools, technical and professional institutes.
• Promote the generational relay in an appropriate way for the best management of knowledge transfer in the company.






Voice Vicenzaoro starts




Bet won or bet lost? Voice Vicenzaoro (Saturday 12 to Monday 14 September) is, in practice, the only major event related to jewelry (It’s to be checked Istanbul Jewelry Show in October) that is not stopped or transformed with a digital cosmetics due to covid. Voice Vicenzaoro, however, does not want to be a lame edition of the fairs dedicated to jewelry. Ieg, the company that organizes Vicenzaoro, has in fact studied a somewhat different form. But how different?
Voice september
With many talk shows and seminars, obviously also online, and with exhibitors who have adapted to more sober exhibition spaces. The planned events are organized in several areas of the Vicenza exhibition center and an innovative integration with the most sophisticated television direction systems and digital equipment will allow the live online of all talks and seminars, also visible in streaming on YouTube, Instagram, FB for to allow its continuation in every part of the world.

Voice Talk
Voice Talk

Voice is above all a summit, specified the International Exhposition Group, which has the support of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Ice (export body), Confindustria Federorafi, Confartigianato, Cna, Apindustria, Confcommercio, Assocoral and, at international, Cibjo, the World Confederation of Jewelry.
VicenzaOro January, visitatori nel booth di Giovanni Ferraris
VicenzaOro January, visitatori nel booth di Giovanni Ferraris. Copyright: gioiellis.com

There are 350 companies on the field and, although some big names in jewelry present at the “normal” editions are missing, it already seems a success. Not to mention that outside, in Vicenza, Vioff was confirmed, which includes a series of collateral events. In short, a lot of luxury to exorcise the covid.
VicenzaOro January 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro January 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com







Jewelery 2021? It will be fluid




What will jewelry be like in the next two years? As always Vicenzaoro, which this year is replaced by the Voice format, Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting, the first independent Italian Exhibition Group Observatory specialized in forecasts for the sector, tries to answer. This year the appointment is organized as part of the TV Talk with the title Predictions 2021-22. Emerging Phenomena, Panorama and Forecast 2022. The appointment is scheduled for Monday 14 September at 2.30 pm in the Voice space at Fiera Vicenza, and will also be streamed on the website and on the event’s YouTube and Facebook profiles.

Collana di perle per uomo di Mikimoto
Collana di perle per uomo di Mikimoto

In summary, we can already anticipate the result of the analysis: the trends of the coming years are cultural blending, spirituality and gender fluid. The jewel of the post-Covid restart will be inspired by the craftsmanship of the traditional techniques of India, Europe and South America revisited by young emerging designers. Jewelry will also have the ambition to instill a new spirituality in the wearer, an experience of transcendence that manifests itself through talismans and amulets, an expression of a holistic approach to life. In short, farewell technology, we look to the Middle Ages. At the same time, the jewels will be unisex: they will overcome the gender divisions, proposing themselves to the single individual and aligning themselves with his understanding of life, rejecting any forced and oppressive characterization. Women who will wear the heavy chains chosen by men so far? Or males who will delight in delicate rose gold jewelry? In a scenario necessarily impacted by the global pandemic, Trendvision reveals, the revolutions triggered by #MeToo and the movement for awareness on climate change are pushing towards ethics and sustainability, values ​​shared by Millennials and Gen Z.

Il rapper A$AP Ferg all’evento di presentazione della collezione Tiffany Men’s
Il rapper A$AP Ferg all’evento di presentazione della collezione Tiffany Men’s

The next trend is also the use of innovative techniques, games of contrasts between enamels, colored natural stones, glass and ceramics. A reality that is continuous contamination, fusion, synergy and dialogue, in which there is the awareness that the recovery will have to enhance all parts of the whole, through a virtuous and respectful fusion.
voice
In short, all topics at the center of the meeting scheduled on the interactive stage set up in the heart of Hall 7, The Stage of Voice, with Paola De Luca, Founder and Creative Director of Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting, and David Brough, Founder and Editor in Chief of Jewelery Outlook, event presenters and moderators during talk-show moments. To follow, the presentation of The Jewelery Trendbook 2022+.
VicenzaOro september 2018. Copyright gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro september 2018. Copyright gioiellis.com







There are 350 exhibitors at Voice Vicenzaoro




Who would have bet on such a large participation in Voice Vicenzaoro, the format that replaces the classic September trade fair dedicated to jewelry? Yet, in the end, more than 350 exhibitors attended the event (12 to 14 September) organized by the Italian Exhibition Group in Vicenza.

Tra i booth di VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Tra i booth di VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The first to join the new formula, in the format suggested by the brake imposed by the health emergency, were Damiani, Crivelli, Leo Pizzo, Mirco Visconti, Fope, Roberto Coin, Pesavento, Karizia, Chrysos, Ronco, Chiampesan, Riccardo Orsato, Alessi Domenico, Silvex, Daveri Vicenza, Unoaerre, Giordini, Richline, Fratelli Chini, Quadrifoglio, Amen, Annamaria Cammilli, Rosato, Pianegonda, Brosway, Rue des Milles, Aucella, Bruno Mazza, Coscia, De Simone, Idea Coral, Mattia Mazza, Enzo Liverino.
Rendering di un'area destinata ai talk show a Voice Vicenzaoro
Rendering di un’area destinata ai talk show a Voice Vicenzaoro

Then, other important brands were added, such as the St. Petersburg fashion house Fabergé, Mattioli, Vendorafa, Antonini, Bronzallure, Better Silver, Songa, Ronco, Italgold, the Richline Group, Giordini, F.lli Chini, Golden Clef, Chiampesan , Pianegonda, Amen, Italian cameo. With a watchmaking niche, with Victorinox, Meccaniche Veneziane and the German Junghans.
Team room di Italian Exhibition Group a VicenzaOro
Team room di Italian Exhibition Group a VicenzaOro

All exhibitors can enhance their creations thanks to the online catalog available on the website and on the App of the event, enhanced and renewed for the occasion. During the event, Inspiration boards, photos and posts made by the Vicenzaoro cool-hunters in search of inspiration among the exhibitors’ windows will also be available.
VicenzaOro September 2019. Copyright: gioiellis,com
VicenzaOro September 2019. Copyright: gioiellis,com







GemGèneve has also been canceled




Another jewelry fair falls on the battlefield at the covid. It is GemGèneve, the event that in recent years took place in May and which for 2020 was scheduled from 1 to 4 November, obviously in Geneva. Surprisingly, Anthony DeMarco, a journalist specializing in the jewelry sector, reported it on Forbes.

Il PalaExpo che ospita GenGenève
Il PalaExpo che ospita GenGenève

The one scheduled for November would be the third edition of GemGèneve, which had already registered a good number of subscriptions. But the situation of uncertainty caused by the epidemic prompted organizers Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber to cancel the date: travel restrictions and health precautions are certainly not preparatory to a successful fair. Unlike what happened for Baselworld, however, the organizers have made it known that all 145 expected exhibitors will be reimbursed (companies that participate in a fair pay the cost of the exhibition space in advance). A decision that causes significant losses to the organizers but which, for sure, leaves a good impression on the companies that had to participate in GemGèneve. The only event related to jewelry, therefore, remains Voice VicenzaOro (12-14 September).
Thomas Faerber
Thomas Faerber

Ronny Totah
Ronny Totah

Lo spazio riservato alla Head. Foto: G.Maillot
Lo spazio riservato alla Head. Foto: G.Maillot







The Voice-Vicenzaoro program




With small steps, but with a loud Voice. The stages of approach foreseen by Ieg to Voice, the alternative event (12 to 14 September 2020) in Vicenzaoro, cintempate the schedule of the scheduled meetings: it is no coincidence that Voice is the acronym of Vicenzaoro International Community Event, an innovative format that Italian Exhibition Group organizes with the involvement of 300 companies present and training events. Here, then, are the main events in the spaces of the Vicenza Fair.
voice
Saturday 12 September. Interview with Jerome Favier, CEO of Damiani, French top manager in charge of the Italian brand. The How we see the Future talk, more, will present the point of view of the new generations of entrepreneurs between contaminations from the fashion world, digital innovation, inspirations from new tools. On Saturday afternoon, focus on sustainability, a delicate development area for the market that requires ever-increasing attention and innovation from companies, with two Cibjo seminars dedicated to the post-covid effects on CSR and sustainability and the entrepreneurial initiative of five African artists and designers.

Voice Talk
Voice Talk

Sunday 13 September. Innovation and technology are the topics of talks and in-depth meetings organized in collaboration with the Club degli Orafi Italia. Among the contents, exclusively in Vicenza, De Beers presents the Insight on the diamond sector. The collaboration between Assocoral and Cibjo is renewed, this time with a central objective: the classification of the range of colors of the Mediterranean coral.
Tra i booth di VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Tra i booth di VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Monday 14 September. Trends and design with the VO + Talk entitled Filling the gap: what’s missing between Brand and Retail, in addition to the classic appointment with Trendvision Talk on the cultural phenomena and the style directions of Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting, the independent observatory on the jewel of Ieg which also presents the 19th The Jewelery Trendbook 2022+, in digital version, with advances on the purchasing trends of the coming months. The online anti-counterfeiting talk, tools and strategies organized by Assorologi with the presence of important players in the sector are also dedicated to watches. The President Mario Peserico spoke and moderation was entrusted to Dody Giussani, Editor in Chief of The Clock.
Un aspetto del piano #safebusiness by Ieg
Un aspetto del piano #safebusiness by Ieg

Corrado Peraboni, Ceo di Ieg
Corrado Peraboni, Ceo di Ieg







Here’s what Voice-Vicenzaoro will be like




The Voice was one of Frank Sinatra’s nicknames. Now, instead, in Italy the Voice is Michela Amenduni, Ieg’s product marketing & communication manager Jewelery & Fashion Division. That is, the woman on whom the burden and honor of making Voice known (Vicenza, 12-14 September), the cousin event of Vicenzaoro September, the fair that was canceled due to the well-known global health emergency. Although Italian Exhibition Group, the company that organizes Vicenzaoro, has tried to organize it until the last, this year it was impossible to re-propose the classic fair dedicated to jewelry, which weighs about 13% of the turnover of Ieg (a company that is listed on the Stock Exchange ). Here, then, is the idea of ​​a different format, but no less interesting for this. “In fact, in the future he could also walk with his own legs,” the manager anticipates.

Michela Amenduni, product marketing & communication manager Jewellery & Fashion Division di Ieg
Michela Amenduni, product marketing & communication manager Jewellery & Fashion Division di Ieg

How the idea of ​​Voice was born.
“We have collected requests from companies and sector associations, but also from many buyers, especially from Germany. During the lockdown, when only Italy had stopped, the perception from abroad was that everything was over, that businesses had disappeared. But no, Italian companies are alive and active. But it was not possible to propose Vicenzaoro with half the world blocked because of the virus. Too many question marks”.
voice
The format.
“The idea is Voice, an acronym for Vicenzaoro International Community Event, but it is also an evocative name: we give voice to the jewelry sector. A summit. The Basel and Hong Kong fairs have been canceled, Voice for businesses is the first occasion of the year, after VicenzaOro January. Three days full of opportunities for meetings, including moments of training in collaboration with universities, debates, followed in streaming on social media. But also business. With the help of the ICE there will also be buyers, in particular we are focused on those from the Schengen area “.

The staging.
“Impossible to recreate the same environment of Vicenzaoro. Participating companies will have booths of 15 square meters available, which can double and which, of course, are customizable. We will also try to recreate a color code that relates to the division into homogeneous areas of activity, as is the case for Vicenzaoro. And a lot of space available to comply with health security measures “.

Voice Talk
Voice Talk

Exhibitors and business.
“300 exhibitors have already confirmed their presence, but the number could go up again, perhaps up to 400. For them there is the Buyer Virtual Room project. How does it work? It is a platform (I-Mop Ieg Meeting Omnichannel Platform) that has already been tested in the Rimini tourism fair, and already used for GoldItaly in Arezzo. For the virtual meetings some rooms will be set up “.

Who is there, who is not there.
«To help exhibitors we are collaborating with Alo, a company that creates 3D videos: in the rooms dedicated to remote connections with foreign buyers you will have the opportunity to project videos of the jewels with a much better performance. This can be useful for brands that sell a lot abroad and who have not yet decided whether to participate in Voice.

The future.
«The Voice format could support Vicenzaoro in the future. But don’t replace it. For example, Voice could become an event that walks with its own legs, a hybrid format, more compact and versatile, which could also be exported to the world, from Shanghai to Panama. We’ll see”.

Immagine di VicenzaOro September 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Immagine di VicenzaOro September 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com







Voice-Vicenzaoro with 300 companies and many big names




Vicenzaoro has been suspended. Long live Vicenzaoro. Which, however, in September is called Voice. If the health emergency led Ieg (the company that organizes Vicenzaoro) to transform the format of the event by also changing the name, the companies in the sector have a strong need to show their production to buyers, that the appointment is called Vicenzaoro o Voice doesn’t matter. This is what can be deduced from the announcement that, in July, the companies that have chosen to exhibit their jewels at Voice-Vicenzaoro International Community Event (12 to 14 September) exceed 300.

Booth di Fope, VicenzaOro January 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Booth di Fope, VicenzaOro January 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com

About 300 companies means a very limited drop of about 15% compared to last year’s attendance. And taking into account that the major fairs, not only of jewelery, have been postponed to next year, number of registration to Voice is a success, perhaps unexpected. In short, Vicenzaoro, ops, Voice has a strong attraction. The names that have already reserved their space also testify to this.
VicenzaOro January 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro January 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For example, Damiani, Crivelli, Leo Pizzo, Mirco Visconti, Fope, Roberto Coin, Pesavento, Karizia, Chrysos, Ronco, Chiampesan, Riccardo Orsato, Alessi Domenico, Silvex, Daveri Vicenza, Unoaerre, Giordini, Richline, Fratelli Chini, Quadrifoglio, Amen, Annamaria Cammilli, Rosato, Pianegonda, Brosway, Rue des Milles. And there will also be companies from Campania, specialists in the processing of corals and cameos, such as Aucella, Bruno Mazza, Coscia, De Simone, Idea Coral, Mattia Mazza, Enzo Liverino.
VicenzaOro september 2018. Copyright gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro september 2018. Copyright gioiellis.com

VicenzaOro January 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro January 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com







VicenzaOro September canceled, in its place is Voice




VicenzaOro September is officially canceled. He won the covid-19. Instead, Voice is born, a new format. The great Italian jewelery fair suffered the same fate as Couture and Baselworld, who had to surrender to the health emergency. Of course, in Italy the pandemic has almost disappeared, but in other parts of the world it is raging and this, according to the organizers, would have compromised the September meeting in Vicenza. Italian Exhibition Group, the company that organizes the event, therefore decided to postpone everything to the January appointment.

Nel booth di Roberto Demeglio. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Nel booth di Roberto Demeglio. Copyright: gioiellis.com

As a partial alternative, Ieg proposes the Voice format, an acronym for Vicenzaoro International Community Event, between Saturday 12 and Monday 14 September 2020. The name of the event alludes, in fact, to the idea of ​​giving voice to the protagonists of the jewelery chain. Obviously it is not the same as VicenzaOro, even if Voice will have the patronage of a series of institutions: the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Ice Agency (organization of the State to encourage exports), Confindustria Federorafi, Confartigianato, Cna, Apindustria, Confcommercio , Assocoral and, internationally, Cibjo, the world jewelry confederation.
VicenzaOro January 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro January 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Voice, in the intentions, will be a meeting opportunity to discuss the state of the industry and the next challenges with opinion leaders. Topics: sustainability, trend & design, innovation & technology with institutional moments and technical talks.
VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The events will unfold over several areas of the Vicenza Fair, including television and live directing systems of all talks and seminars, also visible in streaming on Youtube, Instagram, Facebook. However, the part dedicated to the product is not missing: the most courageous companies in the supply chain, who challenge the fear of contagion, will present the new collections. The Buyer Virtual Room project will be activated for foreign buyers who cannot be present: meetings scheduled by the exhibitors themselves through the I-Mop Ieg Meeting Omnichannel Platform. The Voice event will also live outside the Vicenza Fair, in the city, with Vioff, this time titled The new golden way.
Gioielli esposti a VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli esposti a VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com