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How hard are jewelry stones?

Published on December 3, 2022

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How resistant are the stones of your jewels? Can they be damaged easily?

The hardness of gems is measured by the Mohs scale. The name derives from the German scientist Friedrich Mohs, who conceived it in 1812. The Mohs scale assigns a grade from one to ten to the degree of hardness of the stones. In this way, you can know which ones are more delicate, for example, which scratch or break more often. It is an aspect that is best known to avoid nasty surprises: knowing how hard the stones of your jewels are is also useful for cleaning. For example, an opal is not as strong as a ruby and should be treated with greater delicacy.

In short, generally when someone buys a piece of jewelry they don’t ask you if it will be tough enough to withstand occasional bumps. Yet it is a question that is best to ask yourself, especially if the stone is mounted on a ring, a jewel that is more easily subject to contact with other materials. But the same goes for earrings or necklace if these jewels have stones.

Diamante taglio cuscino di Jack Reiss. Il diamante è l'elemento più duro in natura — Diamante taglio cuscino di Jack Reiss. Il diamante è l’elemento più duro in natura

Although we tend to believe that a stone is incredibly more solid than any common object of everyday life, this is not the case. The gems of your jewelry could be fragile stones, at risk of being scratched or even shattered in some unfortunate circumstance. Even the diamond is absolutely not safe from all danger. Fortunately, Mohs took the trouble, almost two centuries ago, to measure the hardness of different minerals, including precious stones. It is therefore possible to know the degree of hardness of the stones with some certainty.

Pietra	Durezza
Diamante	10
Rubino	9
Zaffiro	9
Alessandrite	8.5
Crisoberillo	8.5
Topazio	8
Spinello	8
Smeraldo	7,5-8
Andalusite	7.5
Hambergite	7.5
Acquamarina	7,5-8
Goshenite	7,5-8
Berillo	7,5-8
Morganite	7,5-8
Granato demantoide	7-7,5
Ametista	7
Tormalina	7-7,5
Quarzo	7
Kunzite	7
Citrino	7
Danburite	7-7,5
Iolite	7-7,5
Rubellite	7-7,5
Tanzanite	6,5-7
Peridoto	6,5-7
Granato	6,5 - 7,5
Diaspro	6,5-7
Axinite	6,5-7
Crisoprasio	6,5-7
Corallo fossile	6,5-7
Agata	6,5-7
Spessartite	6,5 - 7,5
Occhio di tigre	6,5-7
Zircone	6,5 - 7,5
Diasporo	6,5-7
Eliotropio	6,5-7
Tsavorite	6,5 - 7,5
Onice	6,5-7
Corniola	6,5-7
Calcedonio	6,5-7
Rhodolite	6,5 - 7,5
Sillimanite	6,5 - 7,5
Labradorite	6 - 6.5
Pietra Luna	6 - 6.5
Giadeite, giada nefrite	6 - 6.5
Amazzonite	6 - 6.5
Opale	5.5 - 6.5
Ematite	5.5 - 6.5
Lapislazzuli	05-giu
Turchese	05-giu
Ossidiana	5-5,5
Malachite	3,5-4
Corallo	03-apr
Perla	2,5-4,5
Chrysocolla	Di 2 - 4
Ambra	2-2,5

The Mohs scale was initially based on ten readily available minerals. This ranking was subsequently completed and is now an important indicator for those who buy a stone. But be careful: it is a special scale. For example, a corundum (such as ruby) is twice as hard as a topaz, but a diamond is nearly four times harder than a corundum. What you see on this page is a table that summarizes the hardness of the main stones. At the head is the diamond. Immediately after there are rubies and sapphires. Then … Federico Graglia

Set di spinelli di diverse sfumature di Paul Wild — Set con spinelli di diverse sfumature di Paul Wild

Gems that look the same

Published on August 14, 2022

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Beware of false friends in jewelry. Or, better, don’t buy stones that have different values, but a similar appearance. Similar, but not the same. Yet, not only authoritative gemologists have fallen into the misunderstanding, but also customers willing to pay figures with many zeros and even crowned heads. Do you want an example? Numerous precious stones belonging to the treasury of Tsar Peter I of Russia, long believed to be rubies, were later classified as rubellite. The same gem, the ruby, also fooled the London royals: the so-called Black Prince Ruby of about 170 carats mounted on the British imperial crown is actually not a ruby, but a spinel, placed next to the Cullinan II diamond, this authentic . In short, stones with the same color and quite similar. But one is worth more than the other.

Al centro della corona il Rubino del Principe Nero, che in realtà è uno spinello

Ruby and spinel. Both are red stones, although the spinel can also take on other shades, for example these stones can also be black. Many spinels used in jewelry have a color and clarity very similar to that of ruby and sapphire (two stones that are varieties of corundum). Not only that: spinel is often found in deposits adjacent to those of these two most precious stones. In addition to the deep red spinel, there is also a raspberry-colored variety that is mined in Tanzania.

Ruby and rubellite. Rubellite is another red stone, which can have an intense hue similar to that of certain rubies. However, it is a variety of tourmaline, a less rare gem than rubies. Rubellite was already known in ancient Roman times and the gem was often confused with garnets and spinels. The great diffusion in the West took place at the beginning of the seventeenth century after the Dutch importation of the rubellite from Sri Lanka. In 1998 a large tourmaline mine was discovered in Nigeria and rubellite invaded jewelers.

Anello con rubino birmano da 8,80 carati e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite

Spinel and taaffeite. Between these two stones it is taaffeite that is rarer and more expensive. Taaffeite is named after its discoverer, the Irish Richard Taaffe, who in 1945 identified it as confused with spinel. Sent to London for analysis, it was identified as a new precious stone, unfortunately very difficult to find. Unlike spinel, taaffeite exhibits the property of double refraction which allows the distinction between these two minerals. It can have different colors, including red, violet and red, which make it very similar to certain varieties of spinel.

Diamonds and zircons. Attention, let’s not talk about cubic zirconia, which are artificial stones with a very low price and used for pendants and bijoux that cost a few tens of euros or dollars. Real zircons are natural stones. They can have different colors, often found in the blue hue, but there are also colorless zircons like diamonds. Furthermore, zircon has a very high refractive index, lower only than that of diamond, and for this reason it has often been mistaken for the gem it resembles. From a chemical point of view, however, diamonds and zircons are different: the former are made of pure carbon, the latter are nesosilicates.

Emerald and demantoid garnet. They are both green stones. The demantoid garnet, just like the emerald, takes on the green hue due to the percentage of chromium and iron, which lead to bright green shades or more tending to green-yellow, even green tending to blue. Another variety of garnet, tsavorite, also has a green hue that can be mistaken for emerald. In fact, many jewelers combine the two stones on the same piece of jewelry to lower the cost.

Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti by Tenzo

Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino

Bracciale Serpente in titanio, tsavorite, onice, lacca

Topaz, quartz, aquamarine. Sometimes white topaz or topaz with faint yellow hues is mistaken for smoky or citrine quartz. Obviously a simple quartz costs less than topaz. In the blue hue, on the other hand, a pale-colored topaz can be mistaken for an aquamarine. The value of the two stones, however, is different.

Pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri — Vanessa Martinelli, pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri

Collezione Petra, collana in bronzo con topazio giallo by Gaia Caramazza

Anello in oro bianco con grande acquamarina

How to clean gold and precious stones

Published on July 30, 2022

da sapere/ORO

How to clean gold, diamonds and other precious stones? Here is a quick guide with what you need to know about how to clean your jewelry ♦

Of course, a very precious jewel must be kept with care and, frankly, if it has a great value, even emotional, it is better to take it periodically to the jeweler, who can also check its state of health: it happens, for example, that the stones can be detached. , or that the surface is covered with scratches. But it is not always necessary. You can (indeed, must) clean your jewelry periodically, just like washing your laundry. A jewel, in fact, is almost always in contact with the skin and is covered with an opaque patina due to the natural fat that comes out of the pores, and even worse it can be ruined by perfumes, creams and lotions used regularly. Here, then, are the tips for cleaning jewelry to perform at home.

Unlike silver, for example, gold does not blacken over time, but it can easily accumulate dust and dirt. The same goes for diamonds which, of all gems, have the greatest ability to retain organic fragments. And so jewelers are horrified when customers bring rings to tighten or widen, earrings to fix, and wonder why they don’t wash them like their clothes. You can restore the luster of jewelry by yourself, just a few household tools and a few ingredients.

1 Pour a few drops of liquid dish soap into a bowl of water that is just over warm, but not hot. Gently mix. Even if normal tap water works well, for even better results, you can use soda-free soda water: carbon dioxide gives rise to a process, carbonation, which in surfactants, i.e. detergents, helps to dissolve dirt. and accumulated debris. Do not use very hot or boiling water because some stones, such as opals, pearls and corals, can break with a rapid and drastic change in temperature. Then, soak for about 15 minutes to allow the solution to penetrate otherwise hard-to-reach cracks and crevices.

2 Gently scrub the jewelry with a soft bristled toothbrush, the softest possible (there are specific products, but a toothbrush or eyebrow brush will be fine), to avoid scratching the surface. Attention, stiff bristles may remove the top layer in the case of gold plated or galvanic treatment jewelry. Particular attention should be paid to very sensitive and soft stones, such as opals, or pearls.

3 Rinse in running water (always lukewarm) to remove the last residues, remembering to cover the drain plug with a pasta or metal filter coffee sieve. Domestic accidents are more frequent than imagined and even the ring or earrings in the sink pipe are a classic! One last consideration. Let the jewelry dry completely before wearing it again: if it is still wet, even slightly, it can retain moisture on the skin and cause mild skin irritation.

There is another method, that of toothpaste, useful for traveling or for everyday jewelry

1 Mix a small amount of toothpaste and water in a bowl to make a smooth paste.
2 Scrub with an old soft-bristled toothbrush.
3 Rinse thoroughly.

But if the dirt remains, before trying more radical methods such as boiling water or ammonia, which we strongly advise against, it is best to consult a professional.

All about ruby

Published on July 2, 2022

da sapere

Anello La Reine in platino, rubino, diamanti

Rubies are one of the most loved gemstones for centuries and are the gem of the month of July. But few know its true characteristics. Here is a quick guide to know all about rubies ♦

Bright, red, expensive: the rubies are one of the four minerals classified as gems, along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds. Beware, though: they are very rare. They are often used other gems like ruby red but usually of lesser value. Have you ever wondered why it is called ruby? Simple: the name of the stone comes from the Latin word ruber, red. Want to know all about rubies?

Anello in oro bianco con rubino non scaldato taglio smeraldo di 6,54 carati

What are. Dispelling a myth: not all rubies are just red. The color varies from red to deep pink. According to science, the rubies are a variety of corundum, a mineral composed of aluminum oxide. But from a chemical point of view the color red is induced by the presence in its interior of chromium. From a mineral point of view, the ruby is a relative of another precious stone: the sapphire, that is also a corundum. So much so that sometimes it is difficult to determine whether a gem is a ruby or sapphire. For example, a ruby with a color not too strong sometime is classified as a pink sapphire. The rubies are used in jewelry, but not limited to: the stones are very rare, almost like a diamond.

Look inside. Within a ruby you can find an asterism: this is a point bright three-or six-point or star that is caused by inclusions of rutile. This type of rubies is cutted into cabochons to display the effect of light. The asterisms are visible properly with a single source of light: they give a sense of motion and are much appreciated.

The provenance is important. The rubies are found in many parts of the world, but those of Mogok Valley, Myanmar (Burma) are the most prized for their intense red color. Rubies are also found in Thailand, Cambodia, India, Afghanistan and Pakistan. In Sri Lanka are usually light pink (pink sapphires are often classified). Small deposits of rubies are also found in Tanzania, Madagascar, Vietnam, Nepal, Tajikistan, and even in the United States. Today, however, Africa is the main source of rubies. An estimated 80% of the rubies come from Mozambique, mainly from the Gemfields mine. But other companies are also active, such as Fura Gems, which began auctioning gems in the last year, along with a third competitor, Gem Rock, which will soon enter the ruby auction market. However, Africa, as a source, has traditionally been despised by industry, especially for rubies: the most valuable gems, in fact, are those from Burma. But with Burmese rubies in short supply, African rubies from Mozambique, Madagascar and Tanzania are on the rise. Therefore, it is better not to focus on the origin: it is better to judge the value of the stone itself, whatever the origin.

How are. Weight, color and quality of the stone determines its value. First of all the color is important: those with a very intense and brilliant red are the most wanted. Their color is described as “pigeon’s blood”. Rarely rubies can also change color or submit an effect “cat’s eye”. It is also important to their degrees of clarity: a ruby without inclusions are very rare, especially over a certain size. A 10-carat ruby without any needle-like rutile inclusions (also called silk) may indicate that the stone has been treated, or is exceptional.

L'Anfiteatro, anello by Picchiotti con rubino di oltre 8 carati, diamanti, platino — L’Anfiteatro, anello by Picchiotti con rubino di oltre 8 carati, diamanti, platino

Treated or natural? Because the imperfections are common in virtually all rubies, they are used by gemologists to tell if a stone has been treated or is a synthetic ruby. The treatment, in most cases consists in heating the raw stone before it is cut. In fact, almost all rubies today are treated in some way, usually by using the thermal method. For this rare untreated rubies and good quality can reach very high prices.

Anello in platino e diamanti con rubino birmano antico di 4,34 carati

Collana di perle naturali con rubini della Birmania e diamanti bianchi

The luxury of Caram

Published on July 1, 2022

vetrina

Anello con zaffiro rosa taglio cuscino e diamanti

If you are fond of precious gems you must know Caram. It was founded by an Indian, Raj Kumar Jain in 1975, but in Idar-Oberstein in Germany. The company is also present in Hong Kong and Jaipur, the city of origin, which is also the Indian capital of gems. The company specializes in the trade of diamonds, colored precious stones, but also produces high jewelery. To give an idea of what Caram treats, we offer you some images that summarize the brand’s activity.

Starting with the Mughal style necklace (Arab domination of the northern part of India, between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries) with carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires. A composition that does not go unnoticed. The 65-carat cushion-cut Colombian emerald is exceptional in size, quality and color. The ring was also made following the dictates of a style of the past. It is made with platinum and a Kashmiri sapphire: it is natural (unheated) gemstone of 5.09 carats. Other jewels, on the other hand, are made according to classic aesthetic models, with large and high quality diamonds or colored stones.

Anello con rubino taglio ovale e diamanti

Orecchini con zaffiri taglio cuscino e diamanti

Anello con zaffiro Padparadscha e diamanti

The charm of Burmese rubies at the Bolaffi auction

Published on April 7, 2022

asta/news

Pendente in diamanti e rubini parte di un girocollo firmato Romolo Grassi

Bolaffi jewelry auction on April 13 and 14 in Milan: the first day will take place live, while the second will continue online. The catalog is quite vast: it includes over 500 lots selected by private clients, with jewels signed by international Maison. Among the jewels there is a collection signed by Buccellati as well as numerous diamonds of various carats and antique jewelry. Among the top lots is a platinum and diamond ring with an ancient Burmese ruby of 4.34 carats accompanied by an Ssef certificate which ensures the Burmese origin and the absence of heating (the starting price is 23,000 euros). In addition, the catalog includes a small collection of eighteenth-century French snuff boxes.

The auction is preceded by public display on Saturday 9 April in the Bolaffi headquarters (via Manzoni 7, Milan, 10 am-6pm, Sunday included). The exhibition will remain open to the public until Tuesday 12 April, while the auction will begin on Wednesday 13 April in the hall, at the Hotel Mandarin Oriental (via Andegari 9), and will continue on Thursday 14 April only live internet on the website Bolaffi.

Anello in oro, zaffiro blu e diamanti di Buccellati

Bina Goenka, incredible India

Published on January 8, 2022

Orecchini/vetrina

Anello con rubini Gemfields del Mozambico

The extraordinary jewels of the Indian designer Bina Goenka, pieces of goldsmith virtuosity between Mumbai and London.

A jewel of Bina Goenka often is exceeding the price of 100,000 Euros or dollars. Yet they were also sold online by Net-a-porter. The images on this page help you understand why this Indian designers, based in Mumbai, but you can also meet her in London (by appointment) is one of the stars of high jewelery. They know well the customers of Grand Hyatt Plaza Hotel in Mumbai, where the designer is present with her jewels since 2007, when she opened his flagship store.

Orecchini con smeraldi di Colombia e Zambia, turchesi

No wonder that his elaborate necklaces, earrings that seem to puzzle to maharajas or the broochs that resemble the work of some Flemish painters of the seventeenth century, are coveted by movie stars, wealthy industrialists, and members of royal families. She, Bina Goenka, founder and Ceo of the brand that bears his name, designs and produces only few pieces per year: it could not be otherwise, since to build one it takes three to four months, not to mention the selection of stones and the time devoted to design unique pieces. geometric designs and patterns that are found in the natural world are sources of inspiration for this gem artist.

Orecchini in oro giallo e bianco, madreperla, rubini, diamanti

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, perle e diamanti

Orecchini con rubini Gemfields del Mozambico, turchesi, diamanti, perle South Sea

Orecchini con smeraldi colombiani, perle Akoya

Why precious stones are heated?

Published on December 26, 2021

da sapere

Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms

Precious and semi-precious stones in the great majority are heated at high temperatures. Or subjected to radiation. That’s why ♦

If the precious stones warm your heart is perhaps because in turn have been heated. Not from your eyes, but from an electric furnace which can reach 1,600 degrees. The thermal treatment of precious and semiprecious stones is known to jewelers and gemologists, but little known to the general public, that is, those who buy jewelry that flaunt jewels of deep red, deep blue sapphires, aquamarines transparent. In fact, the colored stones that are sold as natural are a small minority, most end up in the oven, without the intervention of a chef. We see, then, what is the heat treatment of gemstones.

Un sacchetto di rubini estratti in una miniera birmana

Warm color
The stones are heated above all to bring out the colors. During treatment the stone is heated to very high temperatures (up to about 1600 degrees Celsius). At this temperature the inclusions (small amounts of other minerals) present in the stone melt and add their own color to the stone. Usually, therefore, the heated stone becomes darker, of a more intense hue. This is the case, for example, of rutile in the blue sapphires. There are also sapphires, known as Gouda, which are extracted from the ground milk and white sapphires turn blue when heated. Even the rubies are almost always heated (except exceptions): with the heat the aluminum oxide in the stone creates a new crystalline structure and the chromium is combined in a different way, allowing a better shade of red. Another effect of the heat is that it can improve the transparency of the stone, thanks to the destruction of any gas or fluid inclusions.

I rubini sono stati messi in un recipiente al centro del fuoco, dove vengono riscaldati

How to find them
Do you have a ring with a natural stone or heated? The question should be: what does it matter? But if you are curious to know, you must contact a gemologist with a microscope. And even so will not be easy to find out. The gemologists, however, can examine the internal state of the stone, inclusions, and look for signs of heat treatment. In general, if the stone is perfect or has exceptional value, or has been treated.
What stones are heated
Here the stones more easily end up in the oven: amethyst, citrine, ametrine, aquamarine, tourmaline, topaz, sapphire, ruby, tanzanite, blue zircon.

A sinistra, una tanzanite prima di essere riscaldata. A destra, la tanzanite dopo il trattamento con il calore

Irradiation

In addition to being heated, precious and semi-precious stones can be subjected to radiation. The question is: are they dangerous then? No, no problem: they are under strict control, just like when you go to the hospital for a chest screen. And, in any case, before leaving the laboratory the stones are checked to ensure that they do not emit dangerous radiation. After all, many gems are naturally subjected to radiation when underground. The irradiation that takes place in the laboratory serves to strengthen or change the color. A stone often subjected to radiation is blue topaz, which in nature is found with a very light shade. Often the two treatments, the thermal and the radioactive one, are combined: each one manages to improve a different aspect of the stone.

A sinistra, un rubino naturale. A destra il rubino dopo essere stato riscaldato

Un rubino non trattato: notare le inclusioni e la luce irregolare

A ruby red warms Dorotheum’s auction

Published on May 6, 2021

asta/news

Anello di Cartier con rubino Burma non trattato, 5,59 carati, diamanti ottagonali e brillanti, 1960 circa

A red ruby is about to ignite Vienna. The stone is mounted on a 1960 Cartier cocktail-style ring, which will be auctioned on June 23 at Dorotheum along with 200 other jewels. The gem is a rare Burmese ruby, set in the center of the ring, it is untreated and comes from the Mogok mines. According to the gemological examination, the stone has a rare shade, between purplish red and pink, and is surrounded by individually set diamonds. The estimate is between 160,000 and 260,000 euros.

The cocktail ring became famous in the 1920s, in the United States of prohibition and today all the best known jewelers have included this type of jewel in their catalog. Another example of the Dorotheum auction comes from Bulgari: an untreated blue sapphire of 3.25 carats from Sri Lanka, framed by numerous diamonds and brilliants. another lot that stands out is a jewelry set in the shape of a butterfly signed by Chantecler and consisting of a ring and a pair of earrings. Numerous diamonds, rubies and emeralds are worked in a fascinating and detailed ensemble.

Anello Bulgari con zaffiro non trattato, circa 3,25 carati, oro bianco, brillanti e diamanti taglio marquise

Among the jewels on sale there is also another untreated Burmese sapphire (4.59 carats) in a diamond ring, earrings with two 14-carat emeralds and with diamonds for about 2.40 carats. Again: a 1970 set by Van Cleef & Arpels, consisting of four bracelets with about 6 carats of diamonds and a Freemasons necklace set with about 30 carats of diamonds. Finally, a necklace with about 45 carats of sapphires and diamonds, which comes from “ancient European nobility”.

Collana di diamanti con zaffiri non trattati per circa 45 carati e diamanti a rombi circa 10 carati

Orecchini con smeraldi per circa 14 carati, brillanti per circac2,40 carati

Parure a forma di farfalla di Chantecler, con brillanti, rubini e smeraldi

Uno dei bracciali in oro e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels

Greenland rubies traceable to Gemolith

Published on April 16, 2021

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Gemolith is the first B2B colored gemstone marketplace powered by GemCloud. It has a catalog with over 10,000 precious stones of 28 different types. It will now also have a specific section filtered through an advanced search and dedicated to traceable gems. The first gem to enter this selection is the Greenland Ruby, available only on Gemolith.com.

Minerale con rubini della Groenlandia. Foto: Vincent Pardieu

Gemolith aims to become the digital showcase of best practices in the colored gemstones industry. We want to enable our vendors to be recognized for their efforts in procuring traceable gemstones, give visibility to companies who are implementing traceable solutions and help to give back to the local communities. All the jewelry designers that we have already onboarded are very excited as this is responding to their current need. They can have access to the world’s gemstones only with one click and get live information about them.
Veronica Favoroso, CEO of GemCloud

The rubies and pink sapphires of Greenland come from the mine located in Aappaluttoq. They are unique and their inclusions tell the story of a 3 billion year journey through time and temperature. Colors range from deep red to lighter shades of pink.

Greenland Ruby and Gemolith are a perfect partnership, with both companies having responsibility and sustainability as their core values. Together we promise to bring authenticity and provenance to the gemstone marketplace, while offering an innovative and creative customer experience in addition to our rare and beautiful gems.
Magnus Kibsgaard, CEO of Greenland Ruby

Greenland Ruby officially opened its mine in 2017 in a frozen landscape in southwestern Greenland. These gems are believed to be the oldest on Earth, while the mine and processing plant are the newest and most sophisticated in the colored gemstone industry. Each gem is tracked from the mine to the market, thanks to the GemCloud business management solution. All gems are quarried, cut and polished adhering to responsible environmental, social and governance practices and have a certificate of origin, approved by the Greenland government that validates provenance.

Miniera di rubini in Groenlandia. Foto: Vincent Pardieu

Software allows you to have visibility into Greenland Ruby’s global inventory and digitally mark gems as if they had been inspected once physically checked. GemCloud also engaged with the Pink Polar Bear Foundation, a Greenland Ruby initiative to support international polar research in all disciplines, in particular by supporting the inhabitants of Greenland (humans, animals and vegetation) affected by climate change. and accompanying cultural changes. GemCloud will offer a percentage of the sales of cut and polished Greenland rubies on Gemolith.com

GemCloud is working to add more traceable gemstones in the coming months, as part of a broader program to promote transparency and traceability, developed jointly with TDI Sustainability.

Fabergé celebrates the anniversary of Game of Thrones

Published on April 11, 2021

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What do the famous Fabergé eggs have to do with a fantasy that has kept millions of people glued to the TV? Yet, the high jewelry of the Maison famous for its precious eggs that cheered the tsars, has decided to celebrate the anniversary of the first episode of Game of Thrones, which debuted just ten years ago. For The Iron Anniversary Gemfields, a mining company that has held the Fabergé brand since 2013, has decided to collaborate with Warner Bros. Consumer Products to produce the Game of Thrones Fabergé egg, defined as imperial class.

Il bozzetto dell'uovo di Fabergé per Game of Thrones — Il bozzetto dell’uovo di Fabergé per Game of Thrones

To create the jewel, Fabergé designer Liisa Tallgren collaborated with Game of Thrones costume designer Michele Clapton. The egg design is inspired by the character Daenerys Targaryen, played by actress Emilia Clarke. The egg shape is inspired by the protagonist’s journey and the importance of her color in her costumes, her passion for dragons and how she interpreted her messages through her jewels during his trip to the show. The egg scales are hand painted in purple, red, blue and gray enamel, the color scheme of the character’s costumes, and accented with diamonds and moonstones.

Disegno preparatorio per l'uovo di Fabergé — Disegno preparatorio per l’uovo di Fabergé

The jewel is made of 18 karat white gold, with a dragon that surrounds the base of the egg, dotted with white diamonds. The egg opens into three sections, representing the three dragons of fantasy, while the flaming scales are represented by a pavé of deep red rubies at the bottom and shaded in pink sapphires and white diamonds at the top, with colored gems that stand out from the black rhodium plating on white gold. Inside, there is also a second golden egg, with white diamonds set. Finally, inside this smaller egg, there is a miniature crown on a crystal base, set with a pear-cut ruby from the Montepuez ruby mine of Gemfields in Mozambique.

Faidee’s dream rubies

Published on March 24, 2021

bracciale/vetrina/ANELLI/COLLANE

Collana con un motivo a farfalla composta da 30 rubini taglio ovale e diamanti pera e marquise

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Roop Chand Lunia. It may be that this name means nothing to you. Yet he is linked to the world of jewelry: born in 1895, he is considered the king of the Burmese ruby. It was he, who passed away in 1960, who founded Faidee, a high-end jewelery house specializing in rubies. Roop Chand Lunia was a gemstone trader, known for his collection of rare and exceptional stones. But he especially fell in love with the red Burmese gem, one of the rarest and most valuable. For this reason, the company founded by Roop Chand Lunia is called Faidee, a name that means good luster, shining, in the Thai language. Faidee specializes in one stone, the ruby: it offers the most colorful, impressive and, of course, expensive gems.

Now in its fourth generation, Faidee therefore offers great jewels with splendid rubies and diamonds. The descendant of the founder, Rajeev, for much of his youth learned to cut and classify diamonds to continue his great-grandfather’s legendary legacy. Today Rajeev guides the skilled craftsmen of Faidee in the processing of the rough stones up to the final polishing.

Anello con rubino di forma ovale di 10,05 carati e diamanti

Collier con 32 rubini taglio cuscino alternati a diamanti

Anello con rubino e diamanti di James W. Currens per Faidee

Bracciale a cinque fila com 60 rubini a forma ottagonale e diamanti baguette e quadrati

Bracciale con 39 rubini taglio cuscino e diamanti

Bracciale con 23 rubini taglio cuscino e diamanti taglio pera

How much is your gem worth?

Published on May 25, 2020

da sapere

Raise your hand if you don’t have at least one jewel with colored gems and have never wondered how much that stone is really worth. Amethyst or ruby, emerald or citrine, sapphire or moonstone: there are not only diamonds. But how much are colored stones worth? How much is a ruby worth? Or an emerald? Or, again, aquamarine? If you want to know how much the gem you have set on the ring is worth, or in a necklace, earrings or bracelet, read here. We try to explain in a simple way what are the characteristics that determine the value of a colored stone.

Of course, there is immediately a fairly obvious aspect: in general, the value is determined by how rare a gem is. A ruby, always in principle, has a higher value than a simple citrine quartz. But this is only a starting point. In fact, it is not said that in reality this is the case. Let’s see, instead, what are the criteria that guide the evaluation of a precious or semi-precious stone.

The starting point is that the value of a colored stone depends on several factors, not just one. Hence, the estimated price doesn’t just depend on the weight and volume of a stone. So, as we said, it is not even the type of stone that determines its absolute value. If you have a ring with a sapphire, it is likely to have a value greater than that of a moonstone. Probable, but certainly not. For example, diamonds are also used in industry, since they are the hardest material that exists. And, of course, the diamonds used to cut ceramic tiles are not of the same quality as those found in jewelry. This is to make it clear that the same type of mineral can have very different qualities.

Orecchini in oro, diamanti, gemme colorate

The 4C
As with diamonds, precious colored and semi-precious stones are also valued for the classic 4C: color, clarity, cut (in English cut) and carat weight (which also determines the size). But among these 4C the first is the most important: the color. Of course, let’s talk about colored stones.

Gemme per Liaison de Couleurs — Paul Wild, gemme per Liaison de Couleurs

Color
For precious (emerald, ruby and sapphire) or semi-precious (all others) colored stones, the color is assessed with three different criteria: hue (name of color), tone (darkness and brightness) and saturation (vividness) . The relationship between hue, tone and saturation is the most important aspect for evaluating a colored stone. This is why emeralds (or rubies, sapphires, etc.) are not all the same. In general, when a gem has a more saturated color it will also be darker. To obtain a more saturated color, the stones are often subjected to particular processes: for example, they are subjected to intense heat, radiation, or treated with chemicals (not harmful). Natural stones, untreated, have a higher value, obviously with the same appearance and weight.
But if you want to observe what the exact color of your stone is, pay attention to the light source: a light bulb that illuminates with yellow hue, for example, can make your stone appear in a different shade than the natural one.

The duPont Emerald, anello con smeraldo colombiano di 9,11 carati

Clarity
Usually the stones, some in particular such as emerald, are not as clear as a glass crystal. Clarity measures the degree of internal or surface transparency. Inside the stones there may be inclusions, that is, small imperfections, traces of other minerals that can determine their value. Usually, the fewer inclusions there are, the more the gem has value. But, be careful: if they offer you an absolutely clear emerald, look at it with suspicion. It could be synthetic. In contrast, amethysts are generally free of inclusions. Other stones, on the other hand, are appreciated precisely for their inclusions: for example, the cat’s eye. Or the star sapphire, which has that particular reflection precisely because it has a rather rare inclusion.

Carats (weight)
Size matters. Of course, the color is important, but if the gem is tiny … The weight of the colored stones is indicated in carats. Yes, but what is it equivalent to? Quickly said: a carat is about a fifth of an gram. A gem with higher carats will generally cost more than another smaller, if the quality is equivalent. But the proportion is very different: amethysts are also found in relevant sizes, even over 100 carats and, therefore, the difference between different sizes and weight is relative. Large rubies, on the other hand, are very rare: in proportion, their value with respect to weight will increase more than that of amethyst.

Anello in oro bianco con acquamarina taglio ovale e diamanti — Paolo Costagli, anello in oro bianco con acquamarina taglio ovale e diamanti

Cutting
It is not easy for anyone who is not a gemologist to judge whether the cutting of a stone is correct. But you have to know that in evaluating a gem it also matters how it was cut. The light, in fact, will be better reflected and will make a well cut stone brighter. Proportions, symmetry and polishing are the main aspects. On the price of a gem, however, its shape has less influence, if it is one of the classic cuts used, such as brilliant, emerald, shuttles, etc. A good cut can enhance the nuances of a colored gem. An imperfect cut can, on the contrary, depress its beauty. And do not think that the cut is a simple operation performed automatically: each stone is different from the other and a cut that is good for one may not be suitable for a similar one, but not the same.

Anello con rubino birmano a forma di cuscino, di Harry Winston.

The country of origin
Last thing to consider: the stone passport matters. There are mines that have a better reputation and average quality than others. And, therefore, in evaluating the stones it is also important to know what the origin is. Burmese rubies are more valuable. The emeralds of Colombia are the most requested, followed by those of Zambia. The now unavailable blue sapphires of Kashmir are the most sought after.

Bracciale con ametista, rubini birmani e diamanti su argento e oro

Citrino con taglio StarBrite da 29,96 carati di John Dyer & Co

Anello della collezione Aristocrat, in oro bianco e diamanti, alessandrite taglio brillante

Orecchini in oro bianco, topazio e diamanti — Tamara Comolli, orecchini in oro bianco, topazio e diamanti

Anello con zaffiro star di Ceylon su ceramica orange e grigia

Anello con zaffiro del Kashmir e diamanti

Why Roberto Coin’s jewels have a hidden ruby?

Published on May 18, 2020

da sapere

We thought it was a known story: instead the reason why a ruby is hidden in Roberto Coin’s jewels is not known by everyone. Yet the idea of inserting a small ruby inside the jewelry is undoubtedly a distinctive aspect of the Italian brand.

Therefore, the idea of ruby as a symbolic signature of the Maison of Vicenza is linked to mythology. Roberto Coin, driven by a passion for ancient history, many years ago read three stories related to the stories of the past that sparked his imagination.

The first of these legends belongs to the world of ancient Egypt and to the pharaohs: the ruby was considered a sort of amulet, which worn in contact with the skin guaranteed eternal love, eternal joy and eternal health. The second legend, however, concerns the Burmese warriors. Apparently they wore the red gem in contact with the skin to defeat wounds and death during the battle. Finally, an old Hindu myth considers rubies to be the precious fruits of Kalpa, the sacred tree of desires and hope. In short, ruby as a magic stone, perhaps associated with life for its blood color.

Anello e bracciale della Princess collection

Fascinated by these myths, Roberto Coin therefore decided to associate his brand with ruby. So in 1996 the launch of the Appassionata collection marked not only the beginning of the history of the Roberto Coin brand, but also the principle of its signature: a small ruby set for the first time within the jewels of the collection. A signature that has remained a hallmark of the Venetian Maison.

Bracciale in oro rosa, diamanti e piccolo rubino della collezione Classique Parisienne

Francis Chiu, Thai message

Published on March 29, 2020

alta gioielleria/ANELLI

The precious jewels by Francis Chiu, signature of the classic Thai design ♦ ︎
It is no secret that much of the jewelry and high jewelery of large European Houses is made in Thai workshops and factories. The manual skills of the craftsmen of the Asian country, combined with a lower labor cost, has led several brands to rely on the industrious Thai workers. But, apart from producing jewels for third parties, what are they capable of doing? It is worthwhile, as an example of the ability to create jewelry of great value, to look at the work of Francis Chiu.

His professional history began in 1999. When most of the Thai jewelry companies focused on mass jewels, Francis Chiu chose to create an exclusive jewelery brand in Asia, for the most demanding public. Today its jewels are also appreciated in the West and are also sold through international auction houses. They are jewels based on large and considerable precious stones, from rubies to sapphires, to which jade is added. Around these stones, always of great impact, the jewel is built. The style is classic, sometimes with some concession to oriental taste. Margherita Donato

Anello con giada cabochon, rubini e diamanti

Anello con rubino, diamanti e zaffiri gialli

Anello con rubino taglio a cuore e diamanti

Classico anello con rubino e petali in diamanti

Orecchini pendenti con smeraldi e rubini

Orecchini con smeraldi taglio a goccia, diamanti e perle

The Indian colors by Varda Goelka and her Diagold

Published on February 28, 2020

vetrina/COLLANE

The rich style and a lot of tradition in the jewelry of the Varda Goelka and her Diagold ♦

India is the country that loves most jewelry. It is logical, then, that has a long tradition. But there are also new brands, as Diagold, that without renouncing of tradition, now offer jewelry high class, with a style that also likes to Western women. In fact, Diagold opened a shop in London. If you go to India, any case, you can go to visit one of the stores (Kolkata, Mumbai, Delhi), of this brand, which was founded by a woman, Varda Goenka, about 15 years ago.

It is not about ethnic jewelry: stones and materials go through a selection equal to that of the great Maison West. Just look at the jewels proposed by Diagold to realize immediately that the model that inspired jewelery is classic Italian or French, with an obvious imprint in some eastern parts. All the jewels are still very elaborate, with extensive use of colored stones next to diamonds and pearls, while gold is yellow, the color that is most appreciated by the Indians. This selection of branded jewelery Diagold can give an idea of the style of the brand.

Anello in oro rosa e diamanti di Diagold

Collana di diamanti e rubini di Varda Goelka

Orecchini a forma di goccia con diamanti e smeraldi

Orecchini con perle, diamanti e zaffiri di Diagold

Van Cleef & Arpels shows Jasmin, new solitaire

Published on February 21, 2020

vetrina/ANELLI

An engagement ring or a wedding ring are the symbol of a promise that lasts over time: and it is this message that Van Cleef & Arpels entrusts to the history of its jewels.

The Parisian Maison has summarized the history, evolution (with a new ring) and style of its creations or, more precisely, of the engagement rings and wedding rings. A story that starts in 1895 in the heart of Paris, with the marriage of Estelle Arpels, daughter of a precious stones trader, and Alfred Van Cleef, son of a gem cutter. In 1906, at number 22 of place Vendôme, the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels unites these two names in a common destiny under the banner of jewelry. Since then, as a sort of immutable link, the logogram & symbolizes this union of souls and skills.

L'interno della boutique di Roma di Van Cleef & Arpels — L’interno della boutique di Roma di Van Cleef & Arpels

For diamonds, as for sapphires, rubies or emeralds, Van Cleef & Arpels seeks, in fact, not only excellence, but also character. In addition to the absolute criteria, a meeting occurs, a secret alchemy capable of awakening the senses. In particular, with Le Pierres de Caractère (which is a brand of the Maison).

Legendary couples
From the pearl and diamond set offered to Princess Grace of Monaco as a wedding gift to the solitaire adorned with a fabulous 8.25 carat ruby given by Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor in 1968, from the famous ruby and diamond necklace of the Duchess of Windsor who has the inscription “My Wallis from her David, 19.VI.1936” on the clasp, at the Océan set made for Princess Charlène of Monaco for the wedding in 2011: many famous couples have turned to the Maison in order to celebrate the highlights of their love.

The Rings
Each creation benefits from Van Cleef & Arpels’ High Jewelery experience, handed down for over a century by the Mains d’Or (another brand of the Maison) of its ateliers. This competence is expressed through a succession of meticulously hand-made gestures. And this also applies to collections of wedding and solitaire rings.
The Icône and Couture solitaires wrap the central stone in a tender embrace, while the Perlée and Estelle rings are punctuated by a profile of gold or platinum pearls. Bonheur and Romance creations sublimate the beauty of the diamond thanks to a feminine and timeless aesthetic. The gems also shine on the unique solitaires, evoking the bond with your loved one through the caress of a volute or a precious petal.

The new Jasmin solitaire
Bonheur, Jasmin, Icône, Romance, Menuet, Entrelacs, Motifs Pétales or Boucle: the different frames allow to highlight the Pierres de Caractère selected by the Maison. The new Jasmin Solitaire is part of these criteria of jeweler excellence. Inspired by the jasmine flower, a symbol of love and beauty, this model with a delicate curvilinear trend is adorned with marquise-cut diamonds to evoke a poetic nature. The solitaire is made of platinum, rose gold, a cushion cut ruby of 5.02 carat (Thailand), round cut diamonds and shuttles.

Customization
In order to easily combine the engagement ring with the wedding ring, the Maison has conceived its creations so that they harmonize with practicality and elegance. If some models (Romance, Couture, Perlée, Estelle) are made on purpose, others offer numerous combinations to future spouses. The ensembles can, in fact, be composed according to their own personality: classic and timeless or modern and daring. Playing on the width of the rings, combining simplicity with the brilliance of diamonds, combining gold pearls: the possibilities are manifold. The Maison also offers future spouses the opportunity to customize each engagement or wedding ring through an exclusive engraving.

Fede nuziale Felicité, oro giallo e diamanti

Real and false stones, how to recognize them

Published on February 1, 2020

da sapere

Acquamarina e tormalina rosa di 20 carati by Nomad

How to recognize a real stone from a fake? Some tricks are often used for jewels and can deceive those who are not experts. Here’s what to check ♦ ︎

Beware of false stones. But also to those who are half-faked. Perhaps you do not know that the ways to simulate precious stones on jewels are many. Here are some aspects you need to consider.

False stones. Plastic and glass are materials often used to simulate precious stones. Technology today allows you to create something in the laboratory that is not distinguishable from stones such as rubies or fossil resins such as amber. Naturally, an expert jeweler or a specialized laboratory can identify whether they are authentic stones or imitations. If you have doubts, ask for an expert advice.

Orecchini oro e ambra — Orecchini in oro e ambra

Artificial stones. Cubic zirconia and synthetic moissanite (there is also the natural one, rather rare) are two of the stones created in the laboratory and which have characteristics similar to authentic gems, such as diamonds. Similar, but not the same. Of course, if you want to sell them, they have a very low value, but at the time of purchase, only a gemologist can distinguish a cubic zirconia, often passed through a zircon, which is instead a natural stone. How to be sure not to be cheated? Simple: a diamond, even a small one, always has a certificate attesting to its characteristics such as transparency, color, clarity and, of course, the carats. Cubic zirconia, no.

Composite stones. One of the trends among jewelers is the proposal to superimpose different stones or materials. It is a way to reduce costs: it consists of a kind of sandwich of different stones: which is more valuable is above, the one that serves to create thickness is below. The goal is to make the stones used on the surface appear larger, adding an imitation or a cheap gem, perhaps in the lower part of the stone, hidden by the setting. This system is less common for transparent stones, while it is more easily used in opaque ones, such as opals or turquoise. Sometimes the authentic stone is just a small layer that is glued onto a less valuable mineral. Another system, on the other hand, concerns transparent stones. To obtain an interesting shade, one expedient is to glue two or three different stones with a special invisible adhesive, so as to make them look like one and transform them into a “precious” stone with a fascinating nuance. The best brands do not hide this choice. But how to avoid cheating? In addition to relying on a brand that enjoys your trust, it is good to carefully observe, perhaps with a lens, the processing of the jewel.

Il diamante composito naturale-artificiale

Fantasy stones. Another idea of those who do not want to be transparent with those who buy jewelry is to change the name of the stones. If you read that a ring has an “oriental emerald”, for example, know that it is a green sapphire, which is less valuable. Other examples: an “American ruby” is actually a garnet, which is worth much, much less. And the “Australian jade”? It is simple treated quartz. Conclusion: when you read slightly exotic names of stones, which you have never heard, check on Google. Or on Gioiellis.com, of course.

Andreoli, anello con opale rosa — Andreoli, anello con opale (vero) rosa

Reconstituted stones. There are stones that are stabilized or rebuilt, as often happens in turquoise. Stabilization consists in subjecting the stone to a pressure to make it more compact and eliminate the chalky consistency. Furthermore, often turquoise or other soft stones are reconstituted by mixing powder with a binder. In short, they are a kind of pasta, to which dye is often added, to make the color more vivid.

Anello con la cosiddetta giada australiana

How to defend yourself. It is not easy to recognize these tricks. A very low price is already an indication that something is wrong: no one will give you for less money a precious stone and the probability that a jeweler offers substantial discounts on an emerald, diamond or ruby is as rare as water in the desert. The certificates, for very expensive stones, are a good start to avoid the purchase of fakes. The opinion of a jeweler who can guarantee the authenticity of a jewel is another element to keep in mind. Finally, greater security can it guaranteed by a expert gemologist. Giulia Netrese

Anello con turchese: solo 6,99 euro da Claire's — Anello con turchese: solo 6,99 euro da Claire’s

Diamante rosa sotto la lente del gemmologo

Here are Christie’s auction stars

Published on May 17, 2019

asta/Diamanti/news

Collana di diamanti e rubini birmani di Van Cleef & Arpels, venduta per 2,4 milioni

Rubini, a Fabergé tiara and a 118 carat fancy diamond: here are the stars of Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction ♦ ︎

More and more: the Magnificent Jewels auction organized by Christie’s in Geneva totaled sales of 77.2 million dollars (68 million euros). Also because the super auction also included watches and collector wines, as well as thrilling jewels. The number of visitors to the Four Season, where the auction was scheduled, also gives an idea of the event: 3,000 went on a pilgrimage to see the 271 jewels, 249 watches, and wine bottles. Other statistical data: bidders from 51 countries on six continents, 87% of the lots found a buyer.

The king of the day was a ring with a Burmese ruby in the shape of a pillow, by Harry Winston. A jewel that has tripled its pre-sale estimate and has been sold for 7.2 million dollars (6.3 million euros), “maximum price achieved in all homes in Geneva this spring”. Does anyone think it is an allusion at Sotheby’s?

Siamante giallo fancy 118 carati che è stato acquistato da Siba in onore di Sam Abram

The Magnificent Jewels auction took place in a very dynamic room for six hours with strong bidding across the globe. Natural pearls and jewels with noble provenance such as the 75.61 carat emerald from Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia found much acclaim and sold for far above their pre-sale estimates. Also, of note was the 118 cts fancy yellow diamond that was purchased by SIBA Corp. in honour of Sam Abram, a prominent figure in the Jewellery world, who very sadly passed away last week.
Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s Head of Jewelery International

Natural pearls continue to deliver strong prices. A necklace with 110 natural pearls was sold for 5.7 million dollars, doubling the pre-sale estimate. The period jewels are also well received. The Fabergé tiara made in 1904 as a wedding gift by Frederick Francis IV, Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin (1882-1945) to his wife Princess Alexandra of Hanover and Cumberland (1882-1963), composed of nine graduated pear-shaped aquamarines it was sold for 1 million dollars against a pre-sale estimate of 340,000. And the necklace owned by the Duchess Vladimir of Russia with a pear-shaped Colombian emerald was allocated to 4.3 million dollars. Also noteworthy is the price of the ring with the Jonker V diamond at 3 million dollars, which however remained within the range of the estimate. Federico Graglia

Smeraldo taglio a pera appartenuto alla duchessa Vladimir di Russia

Diadema con acquamarine appartenuto alla gran duchessa Alexandra di Macklenburg-Schwerin

Van Cleef & Arpels, high jewelery in red

Published on March 15, 2019

alta gioielleria/vetrina/COLLANE

Collana della collezione Treasure of Rubies

Red colour celebrates the new high jewelery collection by Van Cleef & Arpels, Treasure of Rubies ♦ ︎

Van Cleef & Arpels in red. It is the color that distinguishes the Treasure of Rubies fine jewelry collection, a new large line of 60 jewels that follows that of Emeraude en Majest in 2016, and continues the research of Pierres de Caractère, that is of special gems. In all, red stones were used for 3,000 carats that come from Tanzania, Madagascar, Mozambique, Burma. Only in this way the Parisian Maison has managed to compose this collection that in many ways resembles the great art deco jewels of the thirties, such as the famous peony brooches, or the famous ballerinas by Van Cleef & Arpels.

As always, for the Treasure of Rubies collection the Maison used the serti mystérieux, the technique invented by Van Cleef that allows you to juxtapose the stones without seeing a metal frame.

Queen of the collection is perhaps Flaming Ruby, a necklace that uses a rare ruby of over 25 carats cut into a cushion, to highlight the quality of the stone. Among other things, ruby has been one of the favorite stones since the foundation of the jewelery brand, thanks to the many trips of the Arpels brothers in India and the Far East in search of precious red gems. The rubies of the Treasure of Rubies collection are used in the Van Cleef style, with flowers, ribbons and oriental motifs composed with the combination of diamonds, on pink or white gold. Rubies, diamonds and class: nothing can be more precious. Giulia Netrese

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti marquise, rubino taglio cuscino

Bracciale Berunda della collezione Treasure of Rubies

Orecchini con diamanti e rubini, i pendenti sono removibili

Rendering di anello con serti mistérieux