GemGenève - Page 2

The date of the next GemGèneve has already been set





The next edition of GemGenève will take place from 11 to 14 May 2023. The date, set well in advance, marks the entrance of the expo invented by Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber in the circle of classic events, such as the Couture in Las Vegas or Vicenzaoro. A success achieved in a few years, with a challenge at Baselworld that not many would have bet on. Instead GemGèneve has become a solid reality. The second round of 2022 (3-6 November) also had a satisfactory outcome. The organizers registered a total of 3,543 visitors who went to the Palexpo to admire or purchase precious stones, period and design jewels. Of the visitors, according to the statistics, 1,662 returned twice, for a total of 5,205 visits. A participation, the organizers underline, that surpasses all previous editions.

Visitatori a GemGèneve
Visitatori a GemGèneve

The November event was attended by 176 exhibitors, as well as 144 professional dealers, other exhibitors included designers from the Vivarium Quartet, Emerging Talents, New Designers, the Strong & Precious project with Ukrainian designers, school stands, the stand of the Villa hosting the Singapore Gem Museum exhibition, a micromosaic exhibition stand, Bernard Letu and Gem Collectors bookstores.
Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

This edition has exceeded all our expectations in terms of numbers. We had slightly fewer exhibitors in November (176) than in May (201), but never before have we had so many buyers and other visitors. This year GemGenève has further established itself as an authority in the international jewelry trade, becoming one of the most sought after events of its kind.
Ronny Totah, organizer and co-founder of GemGèneve

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot
Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell’evento. Foto: G.Maillot

Visitors came from over 70 countries. Most come from Switzerland, France and Italy, followed by the United Kingdom, Belgium and the United States, as well as India, Germany and the United Arab Emirates.
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

It was a great edition. We received positive feedback from many of the attendees on the organization, design and staging of the exhibition. Most of the exhibitors were visibly happy when they left the event, a sign that business was going well.
Thomas Faerber, organizer and co-founder of GemGèneve

Thomas Faerber
Thomas Faerber

GemGèneve. Copyright:gioiellis.com
GemGèneve. Copyright:gioiellis.com







GemGèneve is back, the organizers speak




From 3 to 6 November GemGèneve is back, an event at the Palaexpo in the Swiss city centered on gems, vintage jewelery and novelties from jewelery designers. As usual, the two founders and organizers of GemGèneve, Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber, answer some questions about the event.

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot
Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell’evento. Foto: G.Maillot

Ronny Totah, organizer of GemGenève and co-founder of the event

Question. Once again, GemGenève has numerous surprises and discoveries in store for visitors and exhibitors. The show provides a comprehensive overview of jewellery, precious, rare and unique stones, pearls; antique jewellery, and historic and modern creations. What’s your secret?

Ronny Totah. I would like to answer that question by pointing out that there is no secret. We have always explained what we are and what our essence is. And the cultural programme flows from that. We’re a small team but we give it our all. We have Mathieu Dekeukelaire (director di GemGenève) in the team and he’s highly committed to producing this cultural programme. He is constantly seeking out new opportunities and novelties to present during the show and makes it a point of honour to create a first-class cultural programme for each new edition. On the other hand, when people realise that GemGenève is not just a trade show but an event in itself, they want to be associated with it. Some projects come directly to us, as was the case with the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation. And this is actually the reward, or a consequence of our initial aim to set up and event which emphasises culture, youth, training, knowledge transfer and above all, on our passion for the jewellery professions. GemGenève, is a trade show AND an event that has been created from the heart.

Mathieu Dekeukelaire. Foto: David Fraga
Mathieu Dekeukelaire. Foto: David Fraga

Question. You recently announced «There are no future plans to put on two editions of GemGenève each year.» This November edition was put on at the express request of exhibitors. Why have you always given in to your exhibitors’ demands up to now? Don’t you know how to say no?

Ronny Totah. Don’t I know how to say no? Perhaps I’ll start with that question. I might perhaps find it difficult to say no in many areas, but it’s not that I don’t know how to say no. Since Thomas and I are also exhibitors, when exhibitors come to us with specific requests, we are able to decide whether they make sense or not. Regarding the November edition, I had confirmation that buyers themselves (and not just exhibitors) needed an event like ours at the end of year, and in Europe. That’s one of the reasons why we agreed to their request. And I am pretty sure that we´ve made the right decision! Now, the next question: how often should we hold GemGenève in the future? I can’t answer that. Thomas and I are constantly listening to the market. And we will talk with everyone who participates in the success of a show: buyers, exhibitors, ourselves and our team.

Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Question. Why do you think people are passionate about GemGenève? Please tell us about your business model.

Ronny Totah. GemGenève’s business model is definitely the same as the business model of a wedding planner. The spouses are the exhibitors and buyers (there are clearly two components like there are in a wedding), and we need to meet the needs of this buyer-exhibitor couple. And that is very important because operating like that eliminates all risk. A conventional organiser will need to take a risk: they place a bet, hoping that in the month of April, for instance, an entire profession with which he is not familiar – because show organisers are not familiar with the profession they exhibit – will need a show in Italy or Germany, or somewhere else. He’s therefore going to start organising this exhibition, estimating the number of people who will attend and making reservations. But this is a risk and the organiser must account for a margin to mitigate any costly mistakes being made. With GemGenève, it’s totally different. We don’t need to take that risk because we respond to a demand that’s real and already there. By not taking that risk, we don’t have the financial need to accumulate money in case we make a bad decision or launch an event that won’t meet our expectations. With us, it’s the complete opposite: our response must meet the expectations of exhibitors and buyers. And that’s why we supplement the commercial side of GemGenève with a whole range of (essentially) cultural and educational events. We think that the passion for a show like GemGenève stems essentially from our business model which, as yet, has no equivalent.

Thomas Faerber. Photo: David Fraga
Thomas Faerber. Photo: David Fraga

Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève

Question. With the current economic and political situation, how is the gem and jewellery market doing? Are you seeing a slowdown in the economy or an increase in prices for certain materials?

Thomas Faerber. The demand for gemstones and the search for rare, valuable pieces remains very high. Finding a new source of these exquisite gemstones is sometimes a challenge. We are also seeing a sharp rise in prices for small diamonds up to 0.05 carats. One reason for this is the Western sanctions imposed on the mining giant Alrosa, a specialist in small diamonds.

Question. You present some beautiful micromosaic pieces in this edition. What is your favourite piece and why?

Thomas Faerber. Personally, I really like this pendant made of acetate and antique micro-mosaic by Carlotte Angloz X Flab. It is a circular pendant set with an 18th century (dated from around 1790) micro-mosaic of a butterfly in an orange acetate and 18k rose gold frame, suspended from a 18k rose gold chain. The frame was designed by Charlotte Angloz for FLAB, marked FF for Faerber and numbered 33390 (pendant approx. 5.8 x 5.8 cm, chain length approx. 41 cm). My daughter Ida and I were impressed by the high standard of Charlotte Angloz’ work. In order to develop the next generation of young talent, we supported this talented student from the Geneva School of Art and Design (HEAD) to develop and launch her first capsule collection. These unique creations were presented for the first time at GemGenve 2021, on the Faerber-Collection stand.

Micromosaico di Charlotte Angloz per FLAB,
Micromosaico di Charlotte Angloz per FLAB

Question. What message would you like to send to the visitors of GemGenève?

Thomas Faerber. First of all, as we have chosen high-level exhibitors, whatever the size of their company or their stand, I hope that our professional buyers and collectors will again find the treasures they are looking for before the end of the year.  On the other hand, I hope that visitors to GemGenève will be inspired by the discoveries they make on site and that they will once again find themselves amazed by the creativity of the young designers’ exhibited works. I would like to stress that this edition promises to be particularly rich in novelties with a high quality cultural programme. For my part, I am looking forward to discovering the exhibition on Micromosaics and the Fabulous Carl Fabergé exhibition of the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation as well as the stand of the Gem Museum of Singapore. Tay Kunming, the founder of the museum, will present a collection of gemstones and minerals to the public. This will be accompanied by explanations of the different stages of their transformation and will allow the general public to better understand our industry. Finally, I wish all the exhibitors a good and successful GemGenève.

Espositore a GemGèneve
Espositore a GemGèneve







Culture and exhibitions in GemGèneve, here is the program





A few days from GemGenève (3-6 November), the event dedicated to gems, vintage jewels and new designers organized at the Palaexpo of the Swiss city specifies the calendar of surrounding events, which are now an integral part of the appointment. During the five days of the exhibition, the director of the exhibition Mathieu Dekeukelaire promoted a series of exhibitions and talks on the world of jewelry. The following is the list of proposals.

Padiglione di GemGèneve maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Padiglione di GemGèneve maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation
Organized to celebrate 40 years of the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation, the Fabulous Carl Fabergé exhibition features more than one hundred Fabergé objects on display, with four main objects, including three imperial eggs. Two will be revealed for the first time in public and included in the next catalog raisonné (due out next winter).
Speakers: Bernard Ivaldi, Alexandra Blin Kourbatoff (respectively President and Vice-president of the Fondation Igor Carl Fabergé)
Spilla "Fiocco di neve" con gemme. Platino, diamanti. Attribuito al laboratorio di Alma Pihl, Carl Fabergé Diametro 3,2cm
Spilla “Fiocco di neve” con gemme. Platino, diamanti. Attribuito al laboratorio di Alma Pihl, Carl Fabergé Diametro 3,2cm

The art of micromosaic through the centuries: with magnificent pieces loaned by some exhibitors, museums and private collectors of GemGenève. Birds, mythological themes, famous monuments typical of the late 18th or early 19th century and the Grand Tour, contemporary pieces and Roman mosaics from the Aventicum. It is an exhibition designed to present the lost art of micromosaic, linking Roman mosaics, Roman micromosaics and contemporary micromosaics.
Lectures and round tables will be organized to discuss these arts.
Speakers: Alice Minter (curator of the Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Collection, at the V&A Museum – London), Sophie Bartschi (curator of the Avenches Museum and Sites).

The Gem Museum, Singapore: The museum aims to make gemology accessible and attractive to a wider audience. The Gem Museum will present an exhibition composed of precious stones and scientific awareness workshops, with demonstrations, observations, where you can discover all the wonders of gems.
Speaker: Kunming Tay

GemGèneve edizione 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve edizione 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For schools
Head (Geneva University of Art and Design): exhibition of four bachelor’s degree projects by students of the Product, Jewelery and Accessories Design department
Current speaker: Nina Genus

Asmebi (Association Romande des Métiers de la Bijouterie) – Etvj – Cfp Arts Genève – Cpne Pôle Arts Appliqués: students will be asked to work in turns on a piece of jewelry, using two workbenches (traditional technical production of a jewel, fabrication of the setting , lunettes, cutting, filing, etc.) + group work (drawings, wax sculptures)
Speakers: Richard Carbonnelle (Cfp Arts Genève), Emmanuelle Garcia (Asmebi), François Monnin (Etvj), Tony Marchese (Cpne Pôle Arts Appliqués).

Launch of the gouache contest between the three schools for May 2023 (Subject: Rien ne se perd, tout se transforme (Nothing is lost, everything is transformed), in which all participating students participate. Design workshop, presented by Elizabeth Fischer ( Head Genève).

Lo spazio riservato alla Head. Foto: G.Maillot
Lo spazio riservato alla Head. Foto: G.Maillot

Create: manage the Crea Eyes Instagram account by creating and editing digital content directly at the fair (photos, videos, interviews with prominent personalities). Crea Genève – Omnes Education offers three-year and master’s degrees in Marketing, Communication and Digital.
Speaker: Donatella Zappieri
Grand Theater of Geneva:
In continuous collaboration with the Grand Théâtre de Genève to make GemGenève part of the cultural landscape of Geneva.
Exhibition of exceptional costumes from the first opera of the 2022/2023 season – La Juive including a magnificent emperor cloak over ten meters long and other surprises. The work done in the workshops, the company experience, the endangered professions are on show.
Discounts for GemGenève visitors and exhibitors on GTG tickets (Grand Théâtre de Genève)
Free admission for GTG members
Speaker: Sabryna Pierre (Head of Cultural Development, GTG)
Partnership already approved for the workshop with HEAD and HEJ students for May 2023

Books: In collaboration with Librairie Bernard Letu
• The metaphysics of jewelery: Charline Coupeau (simplified thesis)
• The soul of the jewel Charline Coupeau, co-author
• Cartier, Rachael Taylor
• Tiffany, Rachael Taylor
• The new stone age, Carol Woolton
• Vogue The jewels, Carol Woolton

Un talk nella precedente edizione di GemGèneve
Un talk nella precedente edizione di GemGèneve

Conferences and talk

THURSDAY 3 NOVEMBER 2022

11.30 – 12.30-Fabergé and his influence on his contemporaries, by Olivier Bachet
13.45 – 15.00 – Announcement of the subject for the Gouache 2023 Competition – ETVJ x CFP Arts Genève x CPNE Pôle Arts Appliqués, followed by the workshop La conceptualization d’un design (The conceptualization of a design), by Elizabeth Fischer (teacher at HEAD Geneva) .
15.30 – 16.30 – Exploration of the extraction of precious stones: Sri Lanka and Zambia, by Richa Goyal Sikri (journalist and narrator). An examination of the lessons learned by Richa during visits to mines, comparing an artisanal mining site (Sri-Lanka) with a large-scale one (Zambia).
13.30 – 14.30 – Book signing: Rachael Taylor, Cartier / Tiffany

FRIDAY 4 NOVEMBER 2022

11.30 – 12.30-History of Bulgari and creation of his style, by Amanda Triossi
13.45 – 14.45 – Splendida et Minuta: trendy Roman jewelery in micromosaic
A Grand Tour around the 18th and 19th century production, from Roman origins to the Napoleonic court and the archaeological revival, by Prof. Anna Maria Massinelli (former curator of the Gilbert Collection, author of the monograph on Giacomo Raffaelli and many other works) and Andrea Petochi;
15.00 – 16.15 – What makes design exceptional? A round table led by Katerina Perez (influencer), with David Roux-Fouillet (head of the product, jewelry and accessories design department, HEAD Genève), Olivier Bachet (expert) and Vivienne Becker (jewelery historian, author);
16.30 – 18.00 – Between science and business, what the names of the stones say about us (Between science and business, what the names of the stones say about us), round table organized by the Association Gemmologie & Francophonie on the challenges of naming precious stones and legal aspects, with Drew Battaglia (jewelry expert and gemmologist), Aurélien Delaunay (CIBJO Diamond Commission and Gemmological Commission, representative of France in ISO), Emmanuel Fritsch (teacher and researcher at the Institut des Matériaux Jean Roule, Nantes; Member of the International Mineralogical Association), Emmanuel Piat (gem merchant, vice president of the CIBJO Colored Stone Commission), Thomas Hainschwang (Antonio C. Bonanno Award for Excellence in Gemmology, Inventor of imaging and spectroscopy techniques DFI, Gemmologist), Enzo Liverino ( President of CIBJO Coral Commission), moderated by Boris Chauviré and Marie Chabrol (lecturer at the Institut de Bijouterie de Saumur, journalist and with sulente);
2.30 – 3.30 pm – Autograph: Carol Woolton, The New Stone Age / Vogue The Jewelery
Professional event | L’Enseignement en joaillerie: les entreprises formatrices (Jewelery teaching: companies providing training), round table / workshop by invitation only, with ASMEBI, CFP Arts Genève, OFPC and companies with the possibility of training students through apprenticeships;

Espositori nell'area Vivarium
Espositori nell’area Vivarium

SATURDAY 5 NOVEMBER 2022

11.30 – 13.00 – Experience! Entre authentification et estimation (Expert evaluations / Between authentication and evaluation. Round table organized by the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation, with Alexandra Blin Kourbatoff, Bernard Ivaldi, Michel Kamidian, Marie-Cécile Cisamolo;
13.30 – 14.30 – The art de la micro-mosaïque, origins, inspirations and techniques, comparison with Alice Minter and Sophie Bärtschi (curator of the Site and Roman Museum of Avenches); Moderator: Gislain Aucremanne (jewel historian);
14.45 – 15.45 – Collecting antique jewelry, conversation with Helen Molesworth (senior curator of the Jewelery Gallery at the V&A Museum) and Vivienne Becker (author and historian of the jewel);
16.00 – 17.00 – From cracked paintings to micromosaics – The Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Collection of micromosaics, by Alice Minter (curator of the Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Collection, V&A Museum);
5.15pm – 6.15pm-Les Trésors de Toutankhamon et son héritage en joaillerie (Tutankhamun’s treasures and his legacy for jewels), by Gislain Aucremanne (jewel historian). On the influence of the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb on the jewels of the 1920s on modern Egyptomania.

Book autographs:
14.30 – 15.30 – Charline Coupeau, The soul of the jewel / The metaphysics of the jewel
1.30 – 16.30 – Caroline Charron, Fabergé, from the Tsar’s Court to exile

SUNDAY 5 NOVEMBER 2022

13.30 – 14.30 – Jewels of all times: a way to spread joy and wonder, moderated by the millennial influencer and journalist Laura Inghirami (Donna Jewel), with David Brough [journalist], and Marianne Fisher (dealership, Paul Fisher Inc.)

14.45 – 15.45 – Young people and jewelery: training courses to respond to the challenges of the sector and the needs of businesses, round table moderated by Donatella Zappieri (jewelery business consultant), with the participation of Emmanuelle Garcia-Gavillet (ASMEBI), Elisabeth Fischer (HEAD), Catherine de Vincenti (journalist) and Allen Adler (Adler Joaillerie)

GemGèneve
place | Dates | Opening time
Palexpo Hall 6 – Entrance in the same place as last year, just in front of the walkway (next to Hall 5) Route François-Peyrot 301218 – Le Grand-Saconnex GE
Just 10 minutes walk from Geneva airport
● Dates: November 3-6, 2022
● Opening hours: 10:00 – 18:30
● Price: CHF 50.-, valid for the entire duration of the show; free for students upon presentation of the student card

 

 

Visitatori a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitatori a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com







Ukrainian jewelry at GemGèneve




GemGenève does not forget Ukraine. Also in the new edition of the event scheduled from 3 to 6 November there will be jewelry creators operating in the country under attack by Russia. In GemGèneve, the organizers planned the Strong & Precious project, which aims to make Ukrainian jewelers known on the international scene. Alongside contemporary creations, the antique jewels of the most famous Ukrainian jeweler of the 20th century, Joseph Marchak, will also be exhibited. He was Fabergé’s main competitor, yet Marchak was called the Cartier of Kiev. Now his jewels occupy a special place in private collections and auction houses.

Pendente Lizard di Zhernov
Pendente Lizard di Zhernov

Ukrainian goldsmith art has very deep roots and every phase of its history, from antiquity to modernity, deserves our careful attention. We are making every effort to organize this exhibition in order to amaze the foreign public with its originality and be remembered for a long time.
Natalia Kietiene, curator of the Strong & Precious project

Among the Ukrainian jewelry brands present on display are Nomis, Inesa Kovalova, Bevza, Rockah.brand, Sergey Zhernov Art & Jewelry, Drutis Jewelery, Lutiki, Gunia, Denis Music.

Orecchini di Gunia Project
Orecchini di Gunia Project

The dissemination of Ukrainian culture – cinema, art, music, literature or jewelry – is our duty today. We want to be recognized and seen through the prism of our truly brilliant cultural tradition. Our first exhibition was a real success and I have no doubt that this time too demanding and professional visitors will appreciate our goldsmith artists
Olga Oleksenko, curator of the Strong & Precious project

Anelli di Inesa Kovalova
Anelli di Inesa Kovalova indossati
Pendente-spilla di Rockah.brand
Pendente-spilla di Rockah.brand
Sea Dreams Kaleidoscope-and-Sides con topazio, tanzanite, smeraldo e apatite di Drutis Jewellery
Sea Dreams Kaleidoscope-and-Sides con topazio, tanzanite, smeraldo e apatite di Sea Dreams Kaleidoscope-and-Sides con topazio, tanzanite, smeraldo e apatite di Drutis Jewellery

Orecchini indossati di Zhernov
Orecchini indossati di Zhernov







Vivarium Quartet, four designer at GemGèneve




It is called Vivarium Quartet. And it is defined as a mini showcase for creators. At the next GemGèneve (3-6 November 2022), Vivienne Becker, jewel historian and curator of the Designer Vivarium of GemGenève, has selected four designer-jewelers: Alix Dumas of Mad Joaillerie, Philippe Lauras, who returns to Geneva as well as Alex Jefford, and Elena Okutova, who previously participated in the Emerging Talents review. Each of the four designers has a different style and a different story behind them. In the coming days we will explore the work of individual designers.

Anello per mignolo in oro bianco e diamanti di Mad Joaillerie
Anello per mignolo in oro bianco e diamanti di Mad Joaillerie

In short, Alix Dumas is a designer born in France, but who has also lived in Romania and Turkey, including Istanbul. She launched her own brand and in 2020 she founded Mad Joaillerie, despite her name, not a crazy decision (you can find her work here). Philippe Lauras, on the other hand, had an artistic education at the École de Joaillerie de Paris (BJOP), but he also studied gemology, design and sculptural modeling. He started working in 1980 and had the opportunity to train in two of the most famous Parisian high jewelery workshops (we wrote about he here).  Alex Jefford was born and raised in Geneva, but lives in London, where she studied fine arts at Central Saint Martins College, with a predilection for engraving and drawing: we have already talked about her work here. Elena Okutova, was born in St. Petersburg, but lives and works in Moscow with her mother Irina. Her work is deeply rooted in Russian traditions, those of craftsmanship and the use of enamels and colored gemstones.
Alex Jefford, anello in oro  giallo e bianco con diamanti
Alex Jefford, anello in oro giallo e bianco con diamanti

Elena Okutova, spilla Papyrus
Elena Okutova, spilla Papyrus

Philippe Lauras, orecchini  Impatiente, con oro rodiato e diamanti
Philippe Lauras, orecchini
Impatiente, con oro rodiato e diamanti

Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello di Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello di Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com







100 Fabergé jewels at GemGèneve




Fabergé jewels are part of the history not only of jewelry, but of culture. And they are not exclusively related to the mythical eggs collected by the tsars. The tradition, style and legacy of the Maison Fabergé have come down to us thanks to the special place occupied by the craftsmanship and creativity of Peter Carl Fabergé, the most famous designer of the family of jewelers active in St. Petersburg. His son, Igor Carl Fabergé, started a foundation that celebrates 40 years this year. And to celebrate the anniversary, he organized a major exhibition as part of GemGenève (3-6 November).

Calamaio ingioiellato d'oro a due colori a forma di fungo porcino. Oro, diamanti taglio rosa, cabochon rubis, cabochon zaffiri, mastro Frederich Koechli, San Pietroburgo circa 1900 larghezza 9,0cm Collezione Palais Royal Hong Kong Ltd
Calamaio ingioiellato d’oro a due colori a forma di fungo porcino. Oro, diamanti taglio rosa, cabochon rubis, cabochon zaffiri, mastro Frederich Koechli, San Pietroburgo circa 1900 larghezza 9,0cm Collezione Palais Royal Hong Kong Ltd

Bernard Ivaldi, president of the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation, recalls that while most of the notoriety about Fabergé is concentrated on the precious Easter eggs commissioned by the Russian imperial family and important private patrons, the Maison’s business does not end here. This is why the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation has decided to offer a different approach by presenting “new finds” and little-known objects as the starting point of the exhibition.

Spilla di presentazione imperiale “Aquila a due teste”. Oro, argento, diamanti, Bottega di Henrik Wigström, Carl Fabergé, numero di inventario 1418 San Pietroburgo 1903, Provenienza: Imperatrice Maria Fedorovna di Russia Lunghezza 4,5 cm
Spilla di presentazione imperiale “Aquila a due teste”. Oro, argento, diamanti, Bottega di Henrik Wigström, Carl Fabergé, numero di inventario 1418 San Pietroburgo 1903, Provenienza: Imperatrice Maria Fedorovna di Russia Lunghezza 4,5 cm

The exhibition includes over 100 pieces from private collections and offers a look at the richness and versatility of the Fabergé workshops. Many pieces have not previously been exhibited in Europe and some are presented for the first time in this exhibition.
Segnalibro oro smaltato. Oro, smalto, cristallo di rocca. Scatola in pelle originale su misura Officina di Mikhail Perkhin, Carl Fabergé, Numero di inventario 2976, San Pietroburgo circa 1900 Provenienza: Imperatrice Maria Fedorovna di Russia Lunghezza 5,9 cm
Segnalibro oro smaltato. Oro, smalto, cristallo di rocca. Scatola in pelle originale su misura Officina di Mikhail Perkhin, Carl Fabergé, Numero di inventario 2976, San Pietroburgo circa 1900 Provenienza: Imperatrice Maria Fedorovna di Russia Lunghezza 5,9 cm

Campanello a forma di cuore. Argento dorato, oro, smalto, perle, calcedonio, Provenienza: Granduchessa Elena Vladimirovna e Nicolas Principe di Grecia Larghezza 5,0 cm
Campanello a forma di cuore. Argento dorato, oro, smalto, perle, calcedonio, Provenienza: Granduchessa Elena Vladimirovna e Nicolas Principe di Grecia Larghezza 5,0 cm
Sigillo a mano in nefrite ingioiellato. Oro, nefrite, rubini, perle. Bottega di Mikhail Perkhin La matrice è incisa con lo stemma della famiglia di Gorchakov Altezza 12,3cm
Sigillo a mano in nefrite ingioiellato. Oro, nefrite, rubini, perle. Bottega di Mikhail Perkhin La matrice è incisa con lo stemma della famiglia di Gorchakov Altezza 12,3cm
Cornice del vaso di Pandora. Cornice smaltata, argento dorato, argento dorato, smalto, Workmaster Israel Roukhomovsky, Parigi circa 1910
Cornice del vaso di Pandora. Cornice smaltata, argento dorato, argento dorato, smalto, Workmaster Israel Roukhomovsky, Parigi circa 1910
Bollitore d'argento semplice. Una grande "bouilloire" in argento semplice con un supporto e il bruciatore, Numero di inventario 23184, officine di Mosca di Carl Fabergé, 1901 Altezza 24,00 cm
Bollitore d’argento semplice. Una grande “bouilloire” in argento semplice con un supporto e il bruciatore, Numero di inventario 23184, officine di Mosca di Carl Fabergé, 1901 Altezza 24,00 cm
Chitarra russa a sette corde. Bomboniera a forma di chitarra russa a sette corde, scolpita da un'unica pietra di agata corniola, cornalina, oro, perle, smalto, numero di inventario 54223. Attribuito alla bottega di Mikhail Perkhin, Fabergé Lunghezza 10,2cm
Chitarra russa a sette corde. Bomboniera a forma di chitarra russa a sette corde, scolpita da un’unica pietra di agata corniola, cornalina, oro, perle, smalto, numero di inventario 54223. Attribuito alla bottega di Mikhail Perkhin, Fabergé Lunghezza 10,2cm
Spilla "Fiocco di neve" con gemme. Platino, diamanti. Attribuito al laboratorio di Alma Pihl, Carl Fabergé Diametro 3,2cm
Spilla “Fiocco di neve” con gemme. Platino, diamanti. Attribuito al laboratorio di Alma Pihl, Carl Fabergé Diametro 3,2cm

La campana di tre tartarughe suona. Campana circolare “Tree turtles”, oro, granato, diamanti con taglio a rosa, pietra dura, numero di inventario 553, Carl Fabergé. Provenienza: Imperatrice Maria Fedorovna di Russia Diametro 8,4 cm
La campana di tre tartarughe suona. Campana circolare “Tree turtles”, oro, granato, diamanti con taglio a rosa, pietra dura, numero di inventario 553, Carl Fabergé. Provenienza: Imperatrice Maria Fedorovna di Russia Diametro 8,4 cm







GemGenève reaches 170 exhibitors




It is the last major appointment of 2022 dedicated to jewelry: the fifth edition of GemGenève (Geneva, Palaexpo pavilion 6, from 3 to 6 November), presents itself with very encouraging numbers: 144 jewelry retailers from 19 countries and over 170 exhibitors , between schools, designers, laboratories and other partners. The new autumn edition, after the one held in May, also hosts a special space reserved for the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary. A hundred pieces representing the story of Carl Fabergé and his master craftsmen will be exhibited, including three imperial eggs in preview, which will appear in the next catalog for winter 2022-2023.

GemGèneve 2021, anello di Studio Renn. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2021, anello di Studio Renn. Copyright: gioiellis.com

After the success of the May 2022 edition and following the requests of our exhibitors, we have decided to organize a second edition in November 2022 in Geneva, but in the future it will not become the norm. The percentage of rebookings between the May and November 2022 editions is over 80%. More than 43 exhibitors participate for the fifth time in GemGenève and over 24 exhibitors will discover the fair for the first time.
Ronny Totah, organizer of GemGèneve

Ronny Totah
Ronny Totah

In terms of attendance, American exhibitors are always in the foreground, and alone account for a quarter of the attendees. This is followed by exhibitors from Switzerland, Hong Kong, Israel, Germany, Belgium, Thailand, India and France, and then companies from the United Kingdom, Singapore, Italy and the United Arab Emirates. And finally, exhibitors from Japan, Russia, Portugal and Spain.
Among the exhibitors at GemGèneve for the first time there are companies such as Ashok Jewelers (India), Arslanian Group (Belgium), House of Art, Madly, Mahenge Gems, Sunny Gem, Miranda Group (Hong Kong) and Heritage Signed Jewels (Portugal).

gemme gemgeneve copyright gioiellis com
Gemme a GemGèneve. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

Anello in oro, titanio e kunzite
Anello in oro, titanio e kunzite







The new designers of GemGèneve




News for the next edition of GemGèneve scheduled from 3 to 6 November. Nine designers will be present: four are part of the Emerging Talents area and five for New Designers, selected by Nadège Totah. The designers are a permanent presence in the event that includes companies specializing in high quality gems and vintage jewelry: they therefore represent an open window on today’s jewelry and tomorrow’s too.

Padiglione di GemGèneve maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Padiglione di GemGèneve maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The work of these designers is displayed in a dedicated space at the heart of GemGenève, a space in which visitors, we hope, will have time and space to study the jewels, to be intrigued, to see and appreciate the new dynamism that is energising jewellery-making today.
Nadège Totah

Wallis Hong, Eternal Butterfly
Wallis Hong, Eternal Butterfly

The four Emerging Talents include Wallis Hong, a Chinese based in Spain, who features miniature sculpture-jewelry made from different materials. They are inspired by nature, marine life, cytology (a discipline that studies the structure and functions of animal and plant cells), botany, religion, mythology. In the same section there is Serendipity Jewelry, France, a brand founded in Paris by Christine Chan in 2017. The designer discovered her passion for stones during a trip to Australia over ten years ago and presents a collection of pieces, combining a concept of respect for nature, respect for freedom and respect for oneself. The third designer is
Vincent Michel, Swiss, with the brand of the same name. He is based in Lausanne and is a travel and mountain enthusiast, from which he draws natural elements are not only a source of inspiration but also his working tools. Finally, Youra Jewelry comes from Saudi Arabia and is a brand based in Riyadh, founded by designer Rabaa Saleh Alangari, who began her journey with a great passion for diamonds, painting, colors and creation.

Sean Gilson. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Sean Gilson. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The five who are part of the New Designers area see the return of Sean Gilson, United States, an American goldsmith and designer who personally creates each of his jewels in his studio in Connecticut and in his laboratory in New York City: he will present a novelty series. A debut for GemGèneve is instead that of Leyser, Germany. Thomas’s grandfather operated precious stone mines in Brazil and ensured the supply of rough stones to the lapidary workshops in Idar-Oberstein, thus creating one of the leading companies in the region. Thomas, along with his son Sebastian, went ahead and developed a passion for creating finished jewelry: he produces a luxury collection of high quality fine jewelry and supplies jewelers all over the world.

Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Paola Brussino comes from Italy, an architect and designer from Turin, who has collaborated with major international jewelry brands. After living in Geneva for a long time, she returned to Italy in 2012 and started a path of pure research. Attracted by the creative possibilities offered by the use of new materials, the designer was among the first to use carbon, titanium, zirconium and corian in fine jewelry. Another return is, however, that of Tenzo, one of those jewelers capable of combining art and design, of which we have already spoken on several occasions. Finally, from Thailand comes the creations of Toji Jewelry, which presents a unique collection of colored gemstones, each with a different story, each with a different meaning, which allows them to create jewelry that reveals the hidden splendor of nature.
Paola Brussino, orecchini La Rose de Edith
Paola Brussino, orecchini La Rose de Edith

Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: Gioiellis.com







GemGèneve returns and celebrates Fabergé




Ronny Totah, one of the two organizers of GemGèneve together with Thomas Faerber, announced it last April: “GemGenève is like a wedding planner for exhibitors. If they want us to schedule two editions a year, we will. We have already received requests for a fair in November of this year ”. The confirmation arrived in mid-August: GemGèneve autumn edition will take place. Last year the appointment with vintage jewelry, avant-garde design and precious gems in the Swiss city was set in November due to the restrictions due to the covid, which had blocked the spring edition. This year, however, the double event, after the one in May, is simply the response to market demands.

I fondatori di GemGèneve, Thomas Faerber e Ronny Totah
I fondatori di GemGèneve, Thomas Faerber e Ronny Totah

“We originally planned to hold only one edition, in May 2022. Following calls from our exhibitors, we decided to organize a second edition in autumn 2022 in Geneva, but this should not become standard practice in the future,” says Ronny. Tota. The new edition of GemGèneve will be held from Thursday 3 to Sunday 6 November at the Palexpo in Geneva and will coincide with the great autumn auctions of the Geneva Luxury Week. In addition to the presence of exhibitors, side events are scheduled. But, of course, business remains the focus. The numbers measure the weight of this deliberately selective event: the first edition, in 2018, had 147 exhibitors and 3,206 visitors. The following year 210 exhibitors and 3,474 visitors. In 2021, autumn edition with problems of post covid restrictions, 120 exhibitors and 2,757 visitors, last May 201 exhibitors and 3,302 visitors. The visits are actually many more if you count those who attended the fair for several days.
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For this edition, which this time will be held in pavilion 6 (usually it is 7), the organizers have also imagined a new scenography, very different from the previous editions and “adapted to the place”. The layout of the room is more squared, less elongated, requires more central spaces that should appeal to more participants and visitors. It will also be an opportunity to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Fondation Igor Carl Fabergé, which this year turns 40, will celebrate its anniversary during the fair and is preparing a beautiful exhibition of exceptional pieces by the famous jeweler of the Tsars. The Foundation will present a range of pieces representing the vast experience of Carl Fabergé and his skilled artisans, ranging from imperial eggs to objets de vertu, testifying to the elegance of his work.
Visitatori a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitatori a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Nadège Totah is once again entrusted with the Emerging Talents area, dedicated to young designers. Among the recent discoveries, in particular, a young self-taught multidisciplinary artist-jeweler who will be presented for the first time at the GemGenève: Wallis Hong, born in China, lives in Spain. Among the new emerging talents also Serendipity Jewelery, created in 2017 in Paris by Christine Chan, and the Vincent Michel jewelery workshop, which offers sur mesure jewelery as well as an exclusive high jewelery collection made up of unique pieces that blend aesthetics, sometimes poetic, and technique. GemGenève will also include the Designer Vivarium for this edition. Tenzo is back, together with the stand of Ukrainian jewelers Strong & Precious, already present in May. An entire space will be dedicated to the art of micromosaic, with a “big surprise” announced.
Anello di Filippo G&G. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello di Filippo G&G. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Padiglione di GemGèneve maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Padiglione di GemGèneve maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve, maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gemme a GemGèneve, maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com







Towe’s microscope nature




Towe’s high jewelry seen through the eyes of biology, as if under a microscope ♦ ︎

Towe Norlén is the founder of the brand that bears her name. The designer is Swedish and the headquarters of the small Maison founded in 1999 is Stockholm, but before creating her own brand, Towe worked in Geneva, Switzerland, for numerous jewelers such as Harry Winston and Piaget, as well as for Sotheby’s. Towe also has another particular aspect: the fusion of high jewelery with biology. A concept that is a step beyond the usual jewel-nature combination, that is, leaves, animals, fruits recreated in gold and precious stones. Here we go into a new dimension: for example, a special feature is the Silk Pattern, which is inspired by the skin, at the molecular level. “My goal is to capture the spirit of nature in its purest form,” says Towe Norlén, who studied design in Copenhagen before specializing in Geneva. “What drives me, I suppose, is a search for purity.”

Anello della collezione Chanterelle in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello della collezione Chanterelle in oro bianco e diamanti

This is the starting point. To which the designer adds other considerations: ” I often think about what defines true luxury. Is it the extravagance of others knowing what you are wearing? Or is it the timelessness of quality? Is it the heritage of luxury, or being able to charge a premium? To me, true luxury is the embodiment of a sense of purity. The clarity of a thought that grows into an idea and takes the form of a design. The purity of the natural materials I work with and how I strive to master them. The time and dedication put into every single detail of what I do. But also the humility of realizing that one’s work is never finished. Constantly looking for new ways to reinvent oneself and learn from other fields of thought, to be inspired and to inspire others. Trying to push the boundaries and find new dimensions of my craft. Ultimately, creating modern pieces that will become future classics. At its utmost, the embodiment of purity is the reflection of joy in a person’s face when she wears something that defines her, a unique romantic memory, a feeling that can last a lifetime.”
The result these reflections are jewels that, in fact, have a structure that somehow resembles the pattern of certain materials seen under a microscope. Only here are molecules and atoms represented by diamonds.

Orecchini Chanterelle con diamanti
Orecchini Chanterelle con diamanti
Bracciale Silk in oro bianco
Bracciale Silk in oro bianco
Pendente Lilas in oro bianco e diamanti
Pendente Lilas in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello Dune SIlk in oro giallo
Anello Dune SIlk in oro giallo
Dune Ring in oro rosa
Dune Ring in oro rosa

Anello in oro Chanterelle
Anello in oro Chanterelle







The lightness of Aaltas




Aluminum has been re-evaluated as a material for jewelry by prestigious fashion houses, by avant-garde designers and also by young enterprising new brands. Like Sonia Lacroix, who lives and works in Geneva, one of the poles of great jewelry and great watchmaking in the world, an activity for which the designer has worked. She does it all by herself, designing and handcrafting her production. At the basis of which, of course, there is the idea of ​​her which is summarized in the name of her brand: Aaltas.

Collana in alluminio champagne e diamanti
Collana in alluminio champagne e diamanti

A name that would be quite cryptic if she didn’t explain its meaning herself. It is a reference to the expression “a altas horas”, which in Spanish means to stay up late. In short, stay up late. And if in Spanish the expression is associated with nightlife, for Sonia Lacroix it means giving vent to her creativity outside the box. Aaltas jewels are simple and complex, with geometric shapes, but studied with attention and imagination. They are, as mentioned, in aluminum, and therefore very light, with gold details and the addition of small stones. The first collection is called Mambo, a perfect dance for those who live at night.

Orecchini della collezione Mambo in alluminio, oro 18 carati e diamanti
Orecchini della collezione Mambo in alluminio, oro 18 carati e diamanti
Mambo Light Antique Rose alumium diamonds
Orecchini della collezione Mambo in alluminio rosa antico e diamanti
Orecchini mini della collezione Mambo in alluminio e oro 18 carati
Orecchini mini della collezione Mambo in alluminio e oro 18 carati
Orecchini in alluminio turchese, oro 18 carati e rubini
Orecchini in alluminio turchese, oro 18 carati e rubini
Sonia Lacroix (da Facebook)
Sonia Lacroix (da Facebook)







Caspita what jewels

//




The alchemy of Arlène Bonnant and her Caspita, a jewelery house that has the name of an exclamation in Italian. But a refined formula ♦ ︎

First premise for non-Italian readers. The word “caspita” in Dante’s language is an exclamation. Those who pronounce it usually add an exclamation mark: wow! It means more or less: “I’m really impressed with this …”. Arlène Bonnant’s grandfather seems to have often pronounced the word caspita and that is why the designer named Caspita her small jewelery house based in Geneva, Switzerland.

Collana con perle di opale etiope
Collana con perle di opale etiope

Second premise. The story of Arlène Bonnant starts from contemporary art. She is an expert in 20th and 21st century art. She worked for eight years together with Simon de Pury and Daniella Luxembourg, and acquired a deep knowledge of the art market. When Phillips de Pury & Company was acquired by the Lvmh group (which then resold it) Arlène Bonnant worked in the Contemporary Art department. In 2005 he created AB Concepts and Dreams (ABCD), a company that cataloged and ensured the conservation of a collection of 300 art objects.

Collane Vishuddha della collezione Chakra in oro, diamanti, smalto
Collane Vishuddha della collezione Chakra in oro, diamanti, smalto

Among the designer’s first initiatives was the collaboration with Zaha Hadid Architects on a collection that combines innovative design technologies and the highest level of craftsmanship. The result was faceted reticular jewels reminiscent of cellular structures. Each piece has been further shaped by ergonomic considerations. The Skein collection includes rings worked in 18-karat gold, some inlaid with precious stones inside the delicate lattice structure, and launched at the Zaha Hadid Design Gallery in London during the Caspita pop-up store.

Collier Farandole Sahasrara in oro bianco e diamanti
Collier Farandole Sahasrara in oro bianco e diamanti

These premises serve to understand why when Arlène decided to devote herself to jewels she considered them in all respects as works of art. And the sources of inspiration were travels to Greece, Italy, India (above all), Israel and Egypt, painters such as Goya, Mantegna, Bosh, Blake and Caravaggio, as well as a particular sensitivity for the world of spirituality. It is no coincidence that his collections are called Chakras and Ourobouros or Alchemy. Perhaps considering the matter divided into sulfur, mercury and salt is a bit simple. But the designer considers alchemy is a spiritual path, like any other path towards self-improvement. Wow, then it’s a bit like jewelry. Lavinia Andorno

Bracciale Chakra in oro giallo 18 carati, 47 spinelli, 49 zaffiri arancioni, 57 zaffiri gialli, 66 tsavoriti, zaffiri blu, 48 ametiste e 224 diamanti
Bracciale Chakra in oro giallo 18 carati, 47 spinelli, 49 zaffiri arancioni, 57 zaffiri gialli, 66 tsavoriti, zaffiri blu, 48 ametiste e 224 diamanti
Collana in oro 18 carati con 18 diamanti, 136 rubini, 98 zaffiri arancioni, 121 zaffiri gialli , 60 tsavoriti , 44 zaffiri blu e 29 ametiste. La chiusura è in oro con 62 diamanti
Collana in oro 18 carati con 18 diamanti, 136 rubini, 98 zaffiri arancioni, 121 zaffiri gialli , 60 tsavoriti , 44 zaffiri blu e 29 ametiste. La chiusura è in oro con 62 diamanti
Anello in oro e diamanti, in collaborazione con Zaha Hadid Architects
Anello in oro e diamanti, in collaborazione con Zaha Hadid Architects
Anello Tourbillon, oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Tourbillon, oro giallo e diamanti
Orecchini Gyroscope
Orecchini Gyroscope






 

The sculpture jewels of Iwona Tamborska




Sculptor, artist, creator: define it as you like, but Iwona Tamborska, from Poland, is certainly not one of the many jewelry designers. Although she creates jewelry. They are, however, different objects, more like sculptures. She is keen to underline this aspect: her brand is called Rękami Stworzone, words that in Polish mean Created by hands. More precisely, she adds in her bio about her that she does not consider herself a jewelry maker, but more as a storyteller, with the difference that these tales are translated into silver and precious stones.

Iwona Tamborska. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Iwona Tamborska. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Stories that can be short, bittersweet fairy tales, which often have a hint of nostalgia for the passing of life and its meaning. But she, she adds, they have one thing in common: they are not just jewels. They are unique pieces created at the request of a client or forged in the Iwona workshop. With her work by her the Polish artist she was a finalist of the Saul Bell Design Award, after being invited to China, Australia, United Kingdom, France and Switzerland, at the 2022 edition of GemGèneve.
Anello a forma di castello con ametista. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello a forma di castello con ametista. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Bracciale in argento che ricorda gioielli ripescati dal relitto di una nave
Bracciale in argento che ricorda gioielli ripescati dal relitto di una nave

Anello Iris in argento con ametista
Anello Iris in argento con ametista
Spilla in argento con rubini
Spilla in argento con rubini

Pendente con ambra che ha insetti inclusi e opale dell'Etiopia
Pendente con ambra che ha insetti inclusi e opale dell’Etiopia

Pisces, spilla in argento ispirata al segno dei pesci con al centro un topazio, zaffiri
Pisces, spilla in argento ispirata al segno dei pesci con al centro un topazio, zaffiri

Virgo Mantis, in argento, oro, rubini, tsavorite, crisoprasio, opale
Virgo Mantis, in argento, oro, rubini, tsavorite, crisoprasio, opale







Extraordinary Bomare

/






The extraordinary stones byBomare, brand founded in Geneva by Marc Boghossian ♦ ︎
Before Boghossian was Boghossian, that is a high-end jewelry brand admired all over the world, there was Bomare. This is the name of the Geneva-based company specializing in high-end colored diamonds, precious stones and unique jewelry creations. Marc Boghossian, Swiss of Armenian-Middle Eastern origin, founded Bomare in 1997. The company, which was present in GemGenève, offers natural pink, blue and yellow diamonds, large white diamonds, rubies and Burmese sapphires, Colombian emeralds and natural pearls. Things for refined investors and collectors. On the other hand, the Boghossian family has been in the diamond and jewelery industry for more than six generations.

Anello con diamante blu e diamanti rosa
Anello con diamante blu e diamanti rosa

A tradition that is rooted in time, in short, and that has helped to build the fame of Bomare. The Maison emphasizes that it has chosen to buy rough diamonds in conflict-free countries, in South Africa, in full compliance with the Kimberley process. The gems are then polished in New York and in Antwerp and are all certified with the Gia and Ssef laboratories. In GemGenève Bomare featured a titanium butterfly pendant, paved with diamonds and sapphires, but above all with a large pink diamond in the center, next to a necklace made of pear cut diamonds with 7.5 carat yellow diamonds. Pieces that do not go unnoticed.

Anello con importante diamante fancy intense yellow
Anello con importante diamante fancy intense yellow
Collana di diamanti taglio pera con diamante giallo pendente
Collana di diamanti taglio pera con diamante giallo pendente
Orecchini con smeraldi della Colombia e diamanti
Orecchini con smeraldi della Colombia e diamanti
Pendente a forma di farfalla in titanio con diamante rosa al centro
Pendente a forma di farfalla in titanio con diamante rosa al centro
Spilla con diamanti e smeraldo colombiano
Spilla con diamanti e smeraldo colombiano







Enzo Liverino 1894, the top jewelry of coral

/




Coral necklaces, coral earrings, coral rings: but Enzo Liverino 1894 is also much more ♦

The jewels that are not usually owned can be admired only in two places: in jewelry or at major jewelry fairs. You can also peek at the necks of celebrities during their red carpet walks, but they can be seen from afar. There is, however, another possibility, which concerns only a few jewels. They are those kept in museums. One of these is the Coral Museum, in Torre del Greco (Naples). And within this museum there is an entire collection of a single jeweler: the Liverino collection.

Collana di corallo con lapislazzulo
Collana di corallo con lapislazzulo

Enzo Liverino 1894 is the name of the Maison that has been producing and processing coral for over five generations. But with great attention to the environmental aspect: Liverino is president of the CIBJO Coral Commission, for the Certification as Carbon Neutral through the CIBJO Greenhouse Gas Measurement Initiative.
Collana in corallo rosa
Collana in corallo rosa

The collection, in particular, was started in 1934 by Basilio Liverino, when he was 16 years old. Over time he has collected a thousand pieces of jewelery and sculptures in coral and semi-precious stones. The company is still one of the most popular coral jewelry producers today. In addition to necklaces with all shades of coral, rings and earrings, Enzo Liverino 1984 also has cameos, another traditional craftsmanship of the Torre del Greco area, among his specialties. But that’s not all: he recently developed a truly original idea: tiles made of pressed coral. They are jewel-tiles, intended for those who can afford jewel-like furnishings.

Enzo Liverino mostra la piastrella composta da corallo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Enzo Liverino mostra la piastrella composta da corallo. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Cameo su corniola
Cameo su corniola

Cameo su pietra sardonica
Cameo su pietra sardonica
Camei di corallo
Camei di corallo
Il Museo del corallo a Torre del Greco
Il Museo del corallo a Torre del Greco

Teschio che si trova nel Museo del Corallo di Torre del Greco
Teschio che si trova nel Museo del Corallo di Torre del Greco. Collezione Enzo Liverino







The nine gems of Saurabh Bhola

/




A new star has been born in the world of jewelry. His name is Saurabh Bhola, he was born in New Dehli, where the family jewelry is based, but he has traveled half the world. He studied design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City with Maurice Galli, former creative director of Harry Winston. He also worked for Tiffany & Co. as a designer, for the Iridesse pearl jewelry chain. Thanks to his attitude he was chosen for a program called Workshop Without The Walls and won a scholarship to study design in Italy, at the Milan Polytechnic.

Anello con diamanti e rubino non scaldato. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello con diamanti e rubino non scaldato. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Meanwhile, he creates unique pieces that have attracted the attention of fans. In 2020 he won the Centurion’s Emerging Designer and in May 2022 he participated in GemGèneve. His style blends ancient Indian tradition in the selection of gems, including Golconda diamonds, with a modern and imaginative design. His path started precisely from the study of the traditional Navaratna: an ancient Sanskrit word that means nine gems.
Saurabh Bhola. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Saurabh Bhola. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The jewels created in this style have an important cultural significance in India, as a symbol of wealth, status and also with beneficial talismans for health and well-being. The traditional combination of nine gemstones includes ruby, diamond, blue sapphire, yellow sapphire, emerald, red coral, pearl, cat’s eye and hessonite, worn in a single ornament. From here Saurabh Bhola began a path that led him to design unique pieces, but with a completely modern style, with elaborate volumes and a refined execution technique, placing one Navaratna stone at the center at a time.
Anello con zaffiro giallo e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello con zaffiro giallo e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Orecchini con diamanti e smeraldi
Orecchini con diamanti e smeraldi
Spilla a forma di scarabeo in oro, onice, e diamante Golconda
Spilla a forma di scarabeo in oro, onice, e diamante Golconda
Anello in oro con diamanti e rubino
Anello in oro con diamanti e rubino
Orecchini con perle naturali
Orecchini con perle naturali







Next GemGèneve in May 2023




The next edition of GemGenève, number five, will take place in May 2023. The clarification is mandatory, because before this year’s edition began (5-8 May) there was a doubt about a possible repeat in November, as is happened last year. But it was an exploit dictated by the pandemic conditions, hopefully overcome, and now the organizers are returning to the spring appointment. The 2022 edition registered 201 exhibitors, of which 160 professional dealers and jewelers, from 19 countries, compared to 120 in 2021.

Vetrina a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vetrina a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

According to the data provided by the organizers, 3,302 visitors from all over the world arrived in GemGèneve (against 2,757 in 2021, 3,474 in 2019 and 3,206 in 2018). Visitors added up a total of 4,850 visits, against 3,800 in 2021, 4,831 in 2019 and 4,300 in 2018. The balance of attendance is therefore positive and, on average, the comments collected by gioiellis.com during the visit to the Geneva event. GemGèneve confirmed itself as an alternative both to fairs like Vicenzaoro and to selective appointments like Haute Jewels Geneva.
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

GemGèneve
GemGèneve

gemme gemgeneve copyright gioiellis com
Gemme a GemGèneve. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

Espositore a GemGèneve
Espositore a GemGèneve







The Ukrainian jewelers at GemGèneve




Jewelery cannot and is not alien to what happens in the world. Thus GemGèneve, an event that hosts companies specializing in the trade of gems, high-end vintage jewelry and a patrol of new designers, also hosted the Strong & Precious project, with the aim of presenting the work of some Ukrainian jewelry designers. The idea is to present Ukraine as a country with a strong potential for jewelry. Ukraine, in fact, is the homeland of jewelers such as Oscar Heyman and Marshak, both of whom had Ukrainian roots and are the brightest examples of Ukrainian goldsmith craftsmanship.

Orecchini di Zhernov
Orecchini di Zhernov

The designers present in Geneva were selected by Olga Oleksenko and Natalia Kietiene. They are very different works, according to the style and technique of the different designers. Some are inspired by the goldsmith tradition of the origins, while others propose themselves as innovators, with original solutions. In short, it is a jewelry store that needs to be developed, as long as it is possible to overcome the difficult moment that the country is going through.
Anelli di Oberig
Anelli di Oberig

I have been working in the jewellery industry for years and always had a passion for collecting. My collection predominantly consists of high jewellery pieces from the XX century by well known names. However now I feel disconnected from them, they are irrelevant for me. I am admiring small independent Ukrainian brands instead. They make things that make sense, reflecting the current situation in my native country.
Olga Oleksenko

Gioiello di Brua
Gioiello di Brua
Anello di Guzema
Anello di Guzema
Orecchino di Inesa Kovalova
Orecchino di Inesa Kovalova
Collana di Lutiki
Collana di Lutiki
Anello Megapolis di Inesa Kivalova. Photo: Ira Merk
Anello Megapolis di Inesa Kivalova. Photo: Ira Merk

Gioielli di Nomis
Gioielli di Nomis







The designers in GemGèneve’s Vivarium




The Latin word vivarium means pond, a small basin of water. And since GemGèneve was born it has proposed its Designer Vivarium (this will be the fourth edition), curated by the jewelery historian Vivienne Becker. The idea is to bring together the work of individual particularly innovative jewelers-designers in a defined space. Since then, the Beckerian lake has seen the succession of young and old designers from all over the world. Some return, others debut. Here, for example, are those foreseen in the Designer Vivarium at the next GemGèneve (5-8 May): Aline Debusigne (Switzerland), Sean Gilson (USA), Regina Gambatesa (Italy), Saurabh Bhola (India), Oktaaf ​​(Spain), Gaelle Khouri (Lebanon), Philippe Lauras (France). Of course, we will be dedicating articles to individual participants of the Designer Vivarium in the near future.

Designer Vivarium ottobre 2021
Designer Vivarium ottobre 2021

Vivienne Becker was assisted and assisted in the selection process by Ida Faerber, daughter of one of the two founders of GemGèneve (Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah). The leitmotif for the selection is the refinement of craftsmanship and the innovative use of materials. The styles represented in the Designer Vivarium 2022, as always, are all very different from each other, and testify to the breadth, depth and versatility of expression in today’s contemporary jewelry world. The idea for a contemporary design showcase originally came from the founders of GemGenève, Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah. An important part of their mission in creating the show was to foster and nurture talent and ingenuity in today’s jewelry world, to give a voice and a platform.

Article updated on April 7. Compared to the previous version, the Russian designer Elena Okutova no longer appears, it is not known whether it is her decision (or impossibility given the geopolitical situation) or a choice of the organizers.

Vivienne Becker
Vivienne Becker
GemGèneve 2021, anello di Studio Renn. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2021, anello di Studio Renn. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com







The number of exhibitors at GemGèneve rises to 160




In a few days, adhesions to the fourth edition of GemGenève (5-8 May, Palexpo in Geneva) have risen from 120 to 160. This was announced by the organizers of the event dedicated to jewels and gems, Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah. In terms of participation, American exhibitors are the most numerous, followed by exhibitors from Switzerland, Israel, Germany, Hong Kong, Belgium, France, Thailand, India and Italy. In addition, there will be companies from the United Arab Emirates, Singapore, the United Kingdom, Sri Lanka, Japan and, finally, Austria. A perhaps unexpected success for what was born as a niche fair, an alternative to the more famous (and expensive) Baselworld.

Jing Zhao, co fondatrice di G Suen, a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Jing Zhao, co fondatrice di G Suen, a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

After the success of the November 2021 edition – The Challenging Edition, we committed to continuing our mission with the same intention to bring together the best of what is being produced in the field of jewellery and precious stones.
Thomas Faerber

79.82% of the exhibitors present in 2021 returned. And more than 45 exhibitors are taking part in GemGenève for the fourth time. Another 20, however, will be present for the first time, such as Claudia Hamann Edelstein, Constantin Wild, La Galerie Parisienne and even larger family companies such as Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt. Ltd and Takat Gems.

The palpable enthusiasm of our exhibitors pushes us to renew ourselves with each edition, while still respecting the event’s DNA. The aim is to maintain the show, designed by the exhibitors, on a human scale, bringing together the general public, the industry professionals, designers of today and tomorrow, including the schools, as well as laboratories, world-renowned experts and informed speakers on the latest trends. GemGenève is a hub which enables quality discussions and examination of major themes of importance to the jewellery trades.
Ronny Totah

Ronny Totah
Ronny Totah

Gioielli a GemGèneve edizione 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli a GemGèneve edizione 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gemme esposte a GemGèneve edizione 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gemme esposte a GemGèneve edizione 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Ingresso a GemGèneve edizione 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ingresso a GemGèneve edizione 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com