Diamanti - Page 2

How much is your jewelry’s worth?

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How much are your jewels worth? What is the authentic value of a ring, necklace or pair of earrings? This is what determines the value of your jewelry ♦ ︎

The most famous financier in the world, or rather the long-term investor who doesn’t miss a beat, Warren Buffett, has the shares of Borsheim’s Fine Jewelry, a Nebraska jewelry company founded in 1870, in his portfolio of funds. This choice has convinced many that if Warren Buffett, one of the richest men in the world, invests (also) in jewelry, then buying gold rings and necklaces is a good idea to direct their savings. This statement is right and wrong at the same time, let’s see why.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show
Esame di un gioiello com diamante

What are jewels for?

You might consider them useless, yet since humanity has existed, women have always chosen to wear jewelry, as evidenced by the archaeological findings. The jewels are, therefore, part of the culture, of the society, and consequently have an ideal value, which is added to the venal value, that is the material of which they are made. The value of a jewel is determined by the shape, the type of processing, the material used, but also by the fame of the Maison that made it. Not only. There is another important aspect, which usually those who buy and then sell a jewel do not calculate: it is the value in use, just like for an apartment or a car. In economics, use value means the ability of a good or service to satisfy a given need. This opportunity for jewelry can be translated into numbers, just like for other material goods. In short, a jewel was created to be worn and the use of a pair of earrings, a ring, a necklace must be taken into account. If you want to sell a jewel, remember that it is a used item. Therefore, from this point of view, a jewel offers an immaterial but real return: it is that given by use.

Modella con collana composta da 374 diamanti bianchi e gialli
Graff, modella con collana composta da 374 diamanti bianchi e gialli

How much is a jewel worth?

The value is not absolute. Varies. For example, a jewel created in the nineteenth century has a different shape from that of a corresponding contemporary object: at one time even the materials and the cut of the stones were different, because the processing technique was different. Today what was the maximum a hundred years ago may seem outdated. It is therefore not surprising that a jewel has a value that changes over time. The price of a jewel can go up, but it can also go down if its shape corresponds less to the concept of beauty, what is in demand on the market. But a jewel of excellent quality, which has certificates of origin and is well made, is likely to maintain its value or increase it over time.

Diadema fine Ottocento firmato Fontana in argento, oro e diamanti
Diadema fine Ottocento firmato Fontana in argento, oro e diamanti

How much is a branded jewel worth?

Although the aesthetic criteria are changing, the jewels of famous Maison, such as Cartier, Tiffany, Buccellati, manage to keep their value more easily than those of anonymous artisans. This, however, is especially true for large jewels, pieces that can be enhanced in an auction sale. A simple silver pendant, even if it was sold by a famous company, still has little chance of increasing its value over time.

Spilla di Cartier anni Trenta con smeraldi e diamanti
Spilla di Cartier anni Trenta con smeraldi e diamanti

How much are gold and precious stones worth?

The value of a jewel is mainly determined by its appearance and the hours it took to create it. For example, high jewelery is made up of unique pieces, with craftsmanship that sometimes lasts weeks or even months, often with particularly expensive precious stones. The value of these jewels will be high, but not only for the material used. Instead, for a normal jewel, for example a ring like many others, the value will be very determined by the materials it is made of. The gold of a ring, for example, will often be valued by weight in the case of mass-produced jewels. In this case, keep in mind that the gold contained in the alloy with which the ring was made, or the earrings or necklace, will determine the value of the metal. 18-karat gold, so to speak, is 75% yellow metal, the rest is usually 7-12% silver and 13-18% copper. 14- or 9- and 10-karat gold jewelry contain even higher percentages of other metals and lower percentages of gold. The same goes for pink or white gold: also in this case it is alloys with other metals, which give it a different color (in nature gold is only yellow). For stones, the evaluation is more complicated. While usually a gold jewel is easier to classify, for stones that do not have a certificate issued by a universally recognized gemmology institute, one must trust the jeweler or an expert. In general, it is very easy for the proposed price for a small diamond to be much lower than your expectations: do not think that a 0.05 carat diamond on the engagement ring has a great value.

Lavorazione di un anello Toi & Moi by Messika
Lavorazione di un anello Toi & Moi by Messika

How is the value of a jewel determined?
With these premises, how is the true value of a jewel determined? If it is a vintage or vintage piece of jewelry, the best way to find out is to browse the catalogs and, of course, the auction results. It is easy for you to find a jewel similar to yours in terms of age, materials and aesthetics. Observe the result of the sale, the relationship between the initial estimate and the final award. This is a good indicator. At auctions, contemporary jewels are also sold, so even in this case you may find indications on the value of your jewel. If you want to sell a piece of jewelry, auction houses have experts who can offer you a rough valuation. But the result of the auction is not always consistent with the estimates, for better or for worse. If you have something more modern, you can start asking the jewelers of your city for an opinion. Not just one, but at least three different jewelers. Furthermore, if the jewels have stones, it is necessary to establish whether they are authentic and what their quality is, unless you have a gemological certificate that certifies it. A different and more uncertain way is direct selling with one of the many online auctions. But in that case the value is largely entrusted to luck and the ability to present the jewel. In any case, keep in mind that participating in an auction also has variable costs, better inquire first.

 

Benoit Repellin, responsabile dell'asta Magnificent Jewels di Sotheby's a Ginevra
Benoit Repellin, responsabile dell’asta Magnificent Jewels di Sotheby’s a Ginevra
Asta di Christie's a Ginevra
Asta di Christie’s a Ginevra







How important is the clarity of a diamond?

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How important is clarity in the evaluation of a diamond? Here’s how to find out what is the degree of clarity ♦ ︎

We make clarity on the diamonds. And it is not a expression: clarity is one of the famous four C  that define the quality of a diamond together with the weight (carat), the color and cut. In short, it is an aspect to pay close attention when buying a stone or a jewel with a diamond. Clarity could compromise the value of the stone, even if the other three parameters mentioned are excellent. Fortunately, when you buy a diamond jewel you can also ask for a certificate listing the classification of the stone.
Here, then, what to look for to know what is the degree of clarity of your diamond and what the abbreviations that appear on the certificate mean.

La scala della chiarezza secondo il Gia
La scala della chiarezza secondo il Gia

The scale of clarity

The clarity of a diamond is about its degree of transparency. If the stone has no impurities inside it will get the highest mark. If within the stone appear small or large inclusions, ie impurities imprisoned in the mineral, will have a lower grade. The scale starts from Flawless (FL), the stone without defects, and goes up to Included 3 (I3) ie with serious impurities inside. This scale of value is the one adopted by the authoritative Gia, Gemological Institute of America, the best known mineralogy research and learning center in the United States of America, founded in 1931 by Robert Shipley in California.

Il diamante taglio smeraldo, da 163,41 carati, D flawless e di tipo IIA di de Grisogono
Il diamante taglio smeraldo, da 163,41 carati, D flawless e di tipo IIA di de Grisogono

How important is clarity?

Is very important. First of all because better clarity translates into perfect reflections of light and, therefore, into a brighter diamond. In addition, impurities, if very accentuated, could over time compromise the structure of the diamond itself. Given this, we must add that a diamond completely free of inclusions is very, very rare. Usually imperfections are not visible to the naked eye, but you have to enlarge the stone at least ten times (the standard used by jewelers) to see inclusions.

Laurence Graff con il più grande diamante taglio brillante (102 carati) internally flawless
Laurence Graff con il più grande diamante taglio brillante (102 carati) internally flawless

What do the degrees of clarity mean?

Inclusions can hardly be identified with the naked eye, except in very large stones with pronounced defects. At this point the choice is a matter of taste: a stone with low clarity, that is with inclusions, can have a considerably lower price than a super-transparent diamond: in short, you can choose a slightly larger stone for the same price as a small, but with maximum clarity. Hardly anyone will notice it, except at the time of a sale. A good compromise could be to choose a middle ground, that is a diamond with Vs1 or Vs2 classification. If, on the other hand, you really want to go on the safe side and aim to buy a diamond jewel also as a form of investment (long term), focus on a stone classified by FL to VVS1. Experts advise against, however, diamonds with SI3 purity as they are probably stones equivalent to grade I1 or I2, in which the inclusions are too obvious: they are low quality diamonds.

Anello in oro con diamanti con inclusioni
Anello in oro con diamanti con inclusioni

Flawless and Internally Flawless

In the description of a diamond you might come across the Flawless and Internally Flawless definitions. What do they mean? Flawless means that the diamond is without visible inclusions or imperfections with a magnification of ten times, Internally Flawless only that no inclusion is visible.

collana Art Deco con ciondolo composto da un diamante eccezionale (colore D, Internally Flawless) di 16,24 carati, all'asta da Christie's
Collana Art Deco con ciondolo composto da un diamante eccezionale (colore D, Internally Flawless) di 16,24 carati, all’asta da Christie’s

What about inclusions?

They are elements of different kinds. They can be tiny crystals, needles, imperfections with the shape of feathers, clouds, points, teeth). Just one of these almost invisible inclusions is enough to let the diamond descend into the clarity scale. In general, for example, a diamond classified as VVS1 has at least one point inclusion, if it is VVS2 or at least two. Of course, not all inclusions have the same effect on the diamond. Transparent inclusions are preferable to white inclusions, which in turn are less harmful than dark inclusions. The worst are the dark and central inclusions in the SI1 grades. One of the most common inclusions is described as a cloud. In reality small clouds composed of different points generally have no effect on the appearance of the diamond. The so-called feathers, however, is a micro-crack that touches, but does not compromise the surface of the diamond. A small crack has no impact, while a larger one can be dangerous over the long term, to the point of compromising the solidity of the stone. These are the most common defects, but in reality there are many others, such as graininess.

Diamante fancy con piccole inclusioni
Diamante fancy con piccole inclusioni

How to choose?

A gemological certificate is the first aspect to consider. Also, consider if the diamond jewelry could be sold sooner or later, or stay with the family. Finally, the most important aspect: look carefully at the diamond. Look at it from a distance of 30-40 centimeters, holding it with tweezers or, if mounted on a ring, grasp the circle. Focus and observe it well against the light, towards a light source. What do you see? The choice is up to you.




Diamante con piccole inclusioni
Diamante con piccole inclusioni
Diamante taglio a cuore di 15,87 carati
Diamante taglio a cuore di 15,87 carati, colore D, senza inclusioni
Anello di platino con diamante da 9,13 carati. Colore D, privo di inclusioni
Anello di platino con diamante da 9,13 carati. Colore D, privo di inclusioni
orecchini
Orecchini con diamanti a taglio circolare colore D, privi di inclusioni, di 22,60 e 22,31 carati, venduti per 8,565 milioni dollari
Anello con diamante rosa taglio a pera Fancy Intense da 13,20 carati, Internally Flawless. Stima: 9-14 milioni di dollari  
Anello con diamante rosa taglio a pera Fancy Intense da 13,20 carati, Internally Flawless
Diamante da 100.20 carati, D color, Internally Flawless, type IIa. Stima: 18 - 23 milioni di euro, venduto a 20, 6 milioni di euro
Diamante da 100.20 carati, D color, Internally Flawless, type IIa. Stima: 18 – 23 milioni di euro, venduto a 20, 6 milioni di euro







What is fluorescence in a diamond

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One third of the diamonds have fluorescence among the characteristics. Here’s how to recognize it ♦ ︎
When you buy a jewel with diamond, for example a ring, you should observe it in the sunlight. Not only to see it spark, but also to find out if the diamond you want to buy is fluorescent. Here because.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti con effetto fluorescenza
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti con effetto fluorescenza

What is fluorescence?
Fluorescence is the reaction of a diamond to ultraviolet light. Approximately one-third of the diamonds are fluorescent and change its appearance when it is hit by UV rays. When such a stone is exposed to the UV rays of the sun, or even in the light of a fluorescent lamp, it changes color. Different fluorescence intensities have been classified: None (Nil / None), Slight / Faint, Medium (Medium), Strong (Strong), Very Strong (Strong). In most cases, however, fluorescence is weak and you can’t see it. And if the diamond is not exposed to UV rays, fluorescence does not appear.

Gradi di fluorescenza dei diamanti
Gradi di fluorescenza dei diamanti

What color does a fluorescent diamond take?
It depends. In most cases when exposed to sunlight, especially early in the morning, the diamond has a blue color. It is usually considered an advantage because it improves a diamond perhaps not of the highest quality (tending to the yellow). But in other cases the fluorescence may tend to yellow: in this case a not too white diamond may worsen its color, making it less white. On the contrary, a fancy yellow diamond, which is naturally yellow, could see its characteristic improved in the case of yellow fluorescence and decreased in the case of blue fluorescence. But fluorescence can also be white.

Diamante da 70,33 carati, con fluorescenza azzurra
Diamante da 70,33 carati, con fluorescenza azzurra

Fluorescence is a defect?
No, it’s a feature of stone. The effect depends on the color of the diamond: it can exalt or depress the color.
Why is it better to look at a diamond in the sunlight?
A diamond might look better than it is if it is seen in the artificial light of a fluorescence lamp. Or, on the contrary, if it is observed in the light of a lamp that hides the fluorescence of the stone, if this worsens the coloration. The best thing is to examine the diamond with different light sources.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti di Luminous Diamonds
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti con fluorescenza di Luminous Diamonds

Does fluorescence affect the price of diamond?
Opinions are controversial. In general, if fluorescence exalts the characteristics of a diamond, it can certainly not depress the price.
Fluorescence can affect the appearance of jewelery?
A fluorescent diamond may not fit well if mounted near other diamonds lacking this feature. Also for this it is good to look at a jewel carefully with different lights.

Spilla Cloud e Skyline in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti fluorescenti
Spilla Cloud e Skyline in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti fluorescenti







Gold, diamonds and GioMio

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Gold, diamonds and the sober elegance of GioMio, fruit of the imagination of Georges Sabbagh ♦ ︎

The name perhaps sound Italian, but was born in Antwerp, the European capital of diamonds, from the initiative of a designer, Georges Sabbagh, of Greek origin. He, however, loves Italy and supports Ferrari. GioMio obviously offers gold and diamond jewelery. The style is recognizable: the jewels are mostly made of pink or white gold, with a diamond outline, often with a larger central stone surrounded by smaller ones, or with a pavé that helps emphasize the brilliance while keeping more content the price.

The jewels are made in Antwerp by local artisans, while the jewels are produced and made by the founder of the brand.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti

Even if the dominant theme is that of gold and small diamonds, jewels are not monotonous. There are collections, like Diamond Blossom, that can express a light and elegant personality. This collection, for example, reproduces the natural shapes of branches and flowers ready to bloom for spring. Giulia Netrese
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti

Collana in oro rosa e diamanti
Collana in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini flessibili in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini flessibili in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini a cerchio in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini a cerchio in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello flessibile in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello flessibile in oro bianco e diamanti

Anello in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti







Boom of demands for diamonds

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Diamonds: is it worth investing in women’s best friend stones? The question recurs and the answer is always the same: it depends. A few years ago, some companies that, including through banks, sold diamonds to those who wanted to invest their savings, presenting them as a safe choice, ended up in court. Wrong, because the price of diamonds varies, it does not grow by divine law and, once purchased, it is also necessary to find those who buy back the diamonds. That said, it should be noted that the crisis due to the coronavirus pandemic seems to have had a positive effect on the diamond market.

Diamanti di Thelma West
Diamanti di Thelma West

The world diamond trade has spent years in doldrums, but after to be paralyzed by the pandemic, things started to improve. Now business is booming. Bloomberg, an American agency specializing in financial news, explained this in a long analysis. As the report tells, Indian carvers in the Indian city of Surat, one of the world’s centers of diamond processing, are desperate for an increase in production. The most skilled polishers are in contention among factories with 50% wage increases, free food and housing. India, where about 90% of diamonds are cut or polished, imported nearly $ 2 billion in rough diamonds last month
The reason is that the demand for diamonds in the market has soared. De Beers, one of the largest producers of the stone, has already raised the prices of diamonds and the rival company, Alrosa, has predicted that the price of precious stones will rise again.
Esame di un diamante in India
Esame di un diamante in India

Why did this boom happen? The causes indicated by analysts are different: exceptional sales of jewelry during the Christmas period, particularly in the United States and China. Reduced or eliminated luxury travel, often forced to stay at home or to restrict travel, those who do not have economic problems have poured out luxury shopping on precious objects. According to an Alrosa manager, online sales of diamond jewelry have almost doubled and reached around 20% of the total.
store cinese shenyang
Inaugurazione di uno store Tiffany a Shenyang, in Cina

And this trend has the effect of increasing the demand for polished diamonds, those used for jewelry. So do you have to rush to buy diamonds? Warning: some industry players, Bloomberg reports, also fear that the market is overheating, and there is a risk of a collapse later in the year. The reason: Annual demand for diamond jewelry had stagnated, estimated at around $ 80 billion, over the past five years, and gem brokers were struggling to make a profit. And if, thanks to vaccines, the pandemic were to be quickly defeated, consumption could return to pre-covid rhythms.
Selezione dei diamanti nel laboratorio di Antwerp (Anversa)
Selezione dei diamanti nel laboratorio Tiffany di Antwerp (Anversa)

But, for now, this is not the case. One of the big American jewelry chains, Signet Jewelers, reported a 7.8% increase in holiday sales in North America. And in China, the second largest market in the world, another big name in the industry, Chow Tai Fook, saw an 18% increase in quarterly sales. De Beers and Alrosa both responded to demand by raising prices, trying to make up some of the ground lost last year when demand plummeted. In short, for now the boom continues.
Diamanti
Diamanti







Alarm fake diamonds

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Beware of fraud: the number of synthetic diamonds that are fraudulently proposed as natural is increasing ♦

Diamonds alarm. Experts report a surge in synthetic diamonds passed off as real. Time ago, a good number of these fake diamonds have been identified by the Gemological Institute of America in India. Gia, in fact, discovered an unusually large number of undeclared synthetic diamonds, which were mixed with natural diamonds.

Verifica dei diamanti in India
Verifica dei diamanti in India

Read also: Recognize if a diamond is true

To be precise, 101 synthetic diamonds were identified in a pack of 323 stones from the Mumbai laboratory of Gia. All small: 0.014 to 0.015 carats. The problem is that the analysis service has been offered since last years: how many fake stones have been certified as authentic before? It is not, in fact, the first time that a fraud falls on the network: the first major discovery of undeclared synthetic stones occurred in May 2012, when several hundred CVD diamonds were sent to the Gemological Institute (IGI) of Antwerp and Mumbai, with the aim of being certified as natural diamonds.

Esame di un diamante in India
Esame di un diamante in India

Even these fake diamonds were created with the technique called CVD (it is not the only system): it is an acronym that indicates the technique that allows you to manufacture diamonds with the deposition of chemical vapor. Basically, a mixture of hydrogen and methane is subjected to very high temperatures (about 900 degrees). At that point the molecules split and transformed into carbon elements are deposited on a tiny element of silicon, tungsten, molybdenum, silicon carbide, silicon nitride or quartz glass. The crystals that are formed have the same texture and appearance as those of a natural diamond. The process is expensive, but for small diamonds it is extremely convenient. Except for those who believe in buying a natural diamond.

That discovered in India was not the only case of fraud: in accordin to BBC, on the Alibaba e-commerce site, for example, advertisements were discovered that offered synthetic diamonds as natural.

Falso diamante
Falso diamante

This type of fraud worries large mining companies. The answer could be the use of blockchain, a technology that guarantees the authenticity of any transaction and allows us to trace the origin of any object or sale that is registered on this platform. Everledger in Australia and De Beers’ Tracr are examples of the use of blockchain technology. Russian diamond mining giant Alrosa also announced last fall that it will join the Tracr platform. Problem solved? Unfortunately not: not all diamonds mounted on the jewelry on sale come from these big manufacturers. Federico Graglia

Diamanti sintetici
Diamanti sintetici







Warning: synthetic diamonds sold as real

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Buy a synthetic diamond and think buying a natural diamond. The risk is there, despite what companies who sell lab-grown diamonds claim. This is indicated by the case broadcast by the popular television program Good Morning America. Of course, the case reported by the broadcast concerns the USA. But it turns on a red light on what can happen on a global scale.

Il diamante cresciuto in laboratorio
Il diamante cresciuto in laboratorio

The story of the Good Morning America investigation concerns a woman, Molly Carlson, who purchased her diamond engagement ring from a jewelry store in a shopping center. After purchasing the ring, she went to another jewelry store to check the jewel. And she had a bad surprise: the jeweler, in fact, revealed that the diamond is artificial, not natural. But at the time of purchase, Molly’s boyfriend confirmed, the seller had described the style, clarity and color, without ever explaining that it was a stone grown in the laboratory.
Molly Carlson
Molly Carlson

It seems that the little transparent commercial practice is widespread. In the United States, the federal agency sent warning letters to eight online sellers of lab-grown diamonds last year that hadn’t made it clear. For example, there are those who have defined synthetic diamonds simply as “alternative”. And it is legitimate to ask: what is the situation in Europe?
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox

Anello in oro bianco e diamante di laboratorio
Anello in oro bianco e diamante di laboratorio

Anello ispirato alle fioriture eterne e alle farfalle danzanti del poetico Giardino Inglese. Lavorato a mano in oro bianco 18k Fairtrade, con 184 diamanti da laboratorio Diamond Foundry, per 6,84 carati
Anello ispirato alle fioriture eterne e alle farfalle danzanti del poetico Giardino Inglese. Lavorato a mano in oro bianco 18k Fairtrade, con 184 diamanti da laboratorio Diamond Foundry, per 6,84 carati







The diamonds of 2019 have shone less. And here is why

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If you are interested in knowing if it is time to buy a diamond, read this article. Because you will be surprised by the discovery that diamonds are excellent stones for a jewel, but future epochal changes are expected. This is affirmed by an authoritative report by Bain & Company, one of the world’s leading consulting companies, in association with the World Diamond Center in Antwerp.

Anello con pavé di diamanti
Anello con pavé di diamanti

Bain & C’s analysis is fierce: diamond sales have fallen a lot. In particular, the forecasts indicate that for 2019 the sale of rough diamonds should fall by 25% and those of polished stones ready to be set on a ring or necklace are estimated to have fallen by 10%.

Diamanti in vendita ad Anversa
Diamanti in vendita ad Anversa

Furthermore, the analysis by Bain & C arrives at the same time as the announcement by Anglo American, the parent company of the De Beers group. The company said diamond sales were down 26% in 2019 and lowered production targets in the near future. De Beers, by 2019, is expected to have extracted about 31 million carats of diamonds, down 11% compared to 35 million last year. And prices have fallen by around 20%.
Antwerp Diamond Ring e1459175492372
Anelli di diamanti esposti nel cosiddetto Diamond Ring di Anversa

In short, the world is asking for fewer diamonds: a decline that is driven by consumer changes in the two largest markets, the United States and China, with retail sales falling due to the decline in consumer confidence and geopolitical uncertainty. But in the long run the situation could be different. In fact, Bain & Company provides a positive outlook for the coming years.
Anversa: acquisti di un buyer
Antwerp (Anversa): acquisti di un buyer

Despite several short-term challenges, we expect a positive result for the long-term diamond market. First of all, however, the industry must overcome some uncertainties in 2019 and 2020, due to the continuing geopolitical instability, the strong signs of an imminent recession and limited support for marketing, in particular for jewelery without brand and range low. On the other hand, it is expected that the luxury branded diamond jewelery segment, which represents about 15% of the total diamond jewelery market, will perform well, growing at high figures, in line with the growth of personal luxury.
Olya Linde, partner of Bain & Company and lead author of the report

In alcune gioiellerie Helzberg Diamonds si possono provare gli anelli virtualmente
In alcune gioiellerie Helzberg Diamonds si possono provare gli anelli virtualmente

Retail sales
According to the report, retail sales of diamond jewelry in the United States are expected to fall by 2% in 2019, in contrast to the 3% growth in 2018. And there are three main reasons for the decline. First of all, consumer confidence has fallen to its lowest point since 2016 due to uncertainties in the labor market, commercial tension and a possible recession. Second, the continuing decline of Chinese tourists in the United States has reduced luxury purchases overall. Third, an additional 15% rate on Chinese jewelry came into effect in September 2019 and could affect sales during the holiday season.
hong 2
Gli affari sono affari, anche a Hong Kong

Last year the Chinese market, including Hong Kong, grew by 4%. In 2019, that trend was reversed. The Chinese market should decline by 5% if calculated in US dollars. The shift is attributed to the depreciation of the yuan, the decline in consumer confidence due to the commercial tension between the United States and China, and significantly lower sales in Hong Kong due to protests shaking the former British colony.
Verifica dei diamanti in India
Verifica dei diamanti in India

In India, the diamond jewelery market declined by 1% in 2018 following the devaluation of the rupee and the failure of the large jewelry retailer Gitanjali. In 2019, sales should return to a 3% growth due to increased customer confidence, a growing number of working women and a shift from preferences to bargains to everyday jewelery only.
thumb yeprem
Yeprem, collier di diamanti indossato

In 2019, performance in Europe was adversely affected by political uncertainty in the United Kingdom and by gilets jaunes unrest in France, but this was partially offset by increased spending by tourists in the euro area. Diamond sales are expected to remain stable in 2019 in Japan due to lower consumer confidence and lower spending by Chinese tourists.

The trends
In 2018, global production fell by 3% to 147 million carats, but after 2017, a record year of production. The production increase of 26 million carats in 2017 was the largest since 1986 and has created a surplus that has affected the entire value chain. As a result, inventories in the mining and medium-sized markets also increased for 2019. Prices and revenues fell in both segments in 2019 despite only a slight reduction in consumer demand. In 2019, sales of assortments moved to smaller stones, which also helped reduce sales. And in 2019, production is expected to drop by a further 4 percent.

Anelli con diamanti
Dior, anelli con diamanti

According to the Bain report, there are four trends for the diamond market:
1 Rapid growth of online sales channels between 5 and 10%. Also because the share of diamond jewelry sales online is lagging behind other consumer products. However, jewelery e-commerce is accelerating and major retailers in the US and China have increased their online sales by 13 and 11% respectively.
2 Marketing expenses will increase. Companies in the sector have increased their efforts and budgets. In 2019, over 200 million dollars were invested in the marketing of the diamond industry, ranging from 70 to 80 million dollars channeled through the Diamond Producers Association.
3 More diamonds created in the laboratory: in 2018 and 2019 the production of laboratory-grown diamonds increased from 15 to 20%. Most come from China. With the evolution of the laboratory diamond market, different business models are emerging. Chinese companies mainly use high-pressure and high-temperature (HPHT) technologies to produce rough diamonds, competing on the lowest production cost. In the United States, companies are pursuing a vertically integrated business model by selling premium brand jewelry.
4 Greater attention to the environment and sustainability: both consumers and investors require more transparent and environmentally friendly practices. Multiple industry initiatives are focused on transparency and traceability, which could increase the trust of both lenders and consumers.

Orecchini con diamanti sviluppati in laboratorio Lightbox
Orecchini con diamanti sintetici sviluppati in laboratorio Lightbox







Survey: the ideal diamond is round and weighs 1 carat

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What is your ideal diamond? What would be your choice in buying a diamond ring? And what shape would you like a diamond? Questions that are concerned for thousands of consumers, but also as many jewelers, who aim to propose what the market demands. The American analysis company GemFind Digital Solutions, which has provided its analysis based on hundreds of online consumer searches, now provides some guidance.

Anello di Beatrice di York con diamante di 2,5 carati
Anello di fidanzamento di Beatrice di York con diamante di 2,5 carati

Result: the ideal weight of a diamond, expressed in carats, is 1–1.25. But even 0.75–1 carat diamonds are appreciated, so much so that they are in second place in online research. In short, whoever wants to give an engagement ring, first of all inquires about the characteristics and the cost of a diamond with this size, which is ideal for an engagement ring.
Bliss, collezione Rugiada, anello con diamante
Bliss, collezione Rugiada, anello con diamante

The classic round cut, brilliant, remains the most requested type of diamond. But according to the research company the ovals are the new trend, which has passed the cushion cut and the princess cut. Overall, the type of four-sided cut (cushion, princess, Asscher) includes about a fifth of the research.

Lenti Villasco, anello in oro bianco e diamante
Lenti Villasco, anello in oro bianco e diamante ovale

And the quality? Those who buy a ring choose a favorable quality-price ratio. Therefore, it is difficult to buy a ring with a diamond of color classified D, E or F, that is the best. The most popular are the G or H colors. A diamond of color G, experts say, is not distinguished from a stone D, unless you are a gemologist.
Anello con diamante chiarezza VVs2, taglio brillante, da 10,78 carati. Venduto per 251.175 dollari
Anello con diamante chiarezza VVs2, taglio brillante, da 10,78 carati. Venduto per 251.175 dollari

In any case, and it is not surprising, the classification of diamonds is generally obscure matter for a buyer (unless he is a regular reader of gioiellis.com). Clarity, for example, is one of the four C’s that determine the value of a diamond, but there is a bit of confusion, even if this type of evaluation represents almost 40% of all diamond research. Few consumers, however, understand that a SI1 or even SI2 diamond can be as beautiful and shiny as a VS stone. No wonder, however, that consumers are more attracted to diamonds without inclusions.
Anello con diamante taglio cuscino
Anello con diamante taglio cuscino

Anello con diamante taglio Asscher
Anello con diamante taglio Asscher

Anello Tiffany con diamante taglio princess. A partire da 10.800 euro
Anello Tiffany con diamante taglio princess. A partire da 10.800 euro

Diamante di colore K, taglio cuscino, oltre 80 carati
Diamante di colore K, taglio cuscino, oltre 80 carati







In USA synthetic diamonds in the crosshairs

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Synthetic diamonds against natural diamonds: in the US the Federal Trade Commission takes the field ♦

Synthetic diamonds, first alarms. A warning is issued by the Federal Trade Commission of the United States. The Ftc is a government agency that protects consumers and has dealt, in particular, with the advertising of some companies that sell laboratory-created diamonds. In the viewfinder are claims that can fool potential buyers of synthetic diamonds. Among other things, a year ago the Federal Trade Commission published guidelines for those involved in marketing and communication for companies selling artificial diamonds.

Diamanti sintetici
Diamanti sintetici

The examples cited by the American body, which can result in penalties for eight companies that come under the lens of the controllers (all active in the US), are statements that define synthetic diamonds as natural, for example referring to cubic zirconia, which is instead created in the laboratory. Or simply indicated as cultivated, like plants or pearls. But a large amount of electricity is required to make a synthetic diamond.
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox

According to the American body, when selling a synthetic diamond it must be specified that it has grown in the laboratory, or created in the laboratory and indicate the name of the producer who made it. The word cultivated, instead, can lead consumers to associate diamonds with a non-artificial process. It is also forbidden to define them as real diamonds, although from a chemical point of view there is no difference with the natural ones. And if, as happens with some companies, it is claimed that production is sustainable for the environment, it is necessary to provide proof that it is true. For example, you must indicate which energy sources are used to create diamonds.
Anversa: valutazione di un diamante
Anversa: valutazione di un diamante

Some operators, finally, point out that it is easy to resell a natural diamond, while there is no (at the moment) a market for artificial diamonds. In this case, in a nutshell, an artificial diamond is forever (and remains to you).

Anello in oro bianco e diamante di laboratorio
Anello in oro bianco e diamante di laboratorio







De Beers synthetic diamonds, right or wrong idea?

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New laboratory diamonds from Lightbox, trademark of De Beers. But what if it’s a strange idea? ♦

Are synthetic diamonds, from a chemical point of view indistinguishable from natural ones, the future of jewelry? Opinions are divided. However, it is possible to reflect on what is happening. As we have already reported on gioiellis.com, the largest diamond trading company, De Beers, has decided to sell laboratory-created diamonds, that is synthetic. Thanks to a very substantial investment he therefore started producing and marketing non-natural stones.

Pendente in argento placcato oro con diamante sintetico da 1 carato
Pendente in argento placcato oro con diamante sintetico da 1 carato

The result is called Lightbox, a brand that in some countries, like Great Britain and the United States, has begun to make its way on the jewelry market. The diamonds are very similar to the natural ones, they are offered with different cuts (the last proposal is of cushion-cut stones) and also in color. And while a natural pink diamond could cost thousands to millions of dollars, Lightbox’s synthetic diamonds are sold for a few hundred euros. A bracelet with a pink diamond, for example, is sold in the US for 600 euros. More generally, these diamonds are sold for $ 800 per carat. An incredibly low price even for artificial diamond standards. Also because the stones are often mounted on silver and not on gold, to keep the price low.
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox

With the premise that no one will ever be able to distinguish a natural diamond from an artificial one, except with a complicated gemological laboratory test, it is not surprising that Lightbox can succeed.
Catena in argento con diamanti sintetici di Lightbox
Catena in argento con diamanti sintetici di Lightbox

But is it a success even for those who sell jewelry? According to an analysis by the USA monthly Forbes, it could be a sensational own-goal. Especially if the artificial diamonds like those of Lightbox will be sold in jewelry and not only on online sites. According to De Beers, Lightboxes at low prices turn to the fashion accessories sector and not to the jewelery world. The data quoted by the American newspaper, however, cast doubt on this statement.
Anello Blue Moon
Anello Blue Moon

In October, De Beers announced a decline in diamond sales of 39% compared to the quarter, and 44% compared to a year ago. The company has indicated the uncertain global economy and tensions in Hong Kong as a cause. Yet brands like Bulgari have not encountered the same problems. On the contrary, the jewelry of the LVMH group sold more. In short, selling diamonds created in the laboratory may have been an unbrilliant move.
Bracciale con diamante rosa creato in laboratorio
Bracciale con diamante rosa creato in laboratorio

Orecchini con diamanti blu creati in laboratorio
Orecchini con diamanti blu creati in laboratorio







Stelo, Floro and Rozo: three new diamond cuts

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Three new diamond cuts introduced by the Indian Hini Star. The record is 91 facets ♦ ︎

There are traditions that seem immutable. A diamond, for example, is forever. But only since, in 1947, De Beers launched an advertising campaign with this slogan. Even the most popular diamond cut, the brilliant, has no secular tradition, but began to spread only in the early 1900s.

Taglio Stelo, con 91 sfaccettature
Taglio Stelo, con 91 sfaccettature

But the evolution has not ended, according to the Hong Kong-based Indian diamond manufacturer, Hini Star. A few weeks ago, in fact, the company presented three new diamond cuts, which are part of a series called Optica. The three newcomers are called Stelo, Rozo and Floro, but the Optica series includes 18 new diamond cuts, which will be presented later.
rendering di un diamante con taglio Floro: 77 sfaccettature
rendering di un diamante con taglio Floro: 77 sfaccettature

According to Smit Virani, chief operating officer of Hini Star, each of the cuts in the series has patented symmetrical optical motifs that are the result of over 30 years of research, development and innovation. The cuts offer overall lighting performance that has never existed before. In any case, diamonds are offered with Giae certificate with a scientific evaluation regarding brightness (reflected light) and light symmetry. The new cuts, according to Hini Star, have been developed thanks to the new digital tools, which have allowed us to calculate new parameters that enhance the optical properties of the stone.
Taglio Rozo, con 56 sfaccettature
Taglio Rozo, con 56 sfaccettature

The reflections for the three cuts are also inspired by real images: star (Stelo), rosa (Rozo) and flower (Floro). Stelo has 91 facets, a record (the brilliant-cut diamond has 57). Rozo is limited to 56 facets, while Floro reaches 77: a possible result only with the new, modern diamond-cutting machines.

Taglio Stelo blu
Taglio Stelo blu







4×4 diamonds at Couture

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At the Couture in Las Vegas the diamonds of Canadamark in 4×4 version directed by Muse ♦ ︎

The Couture in Las Vegas organized between the Wynn and the Encore Resort is always an event full of news. One of these, in the 2019 edition, is represented by the series of jewels created by four leading designers for the Canadian Canadamark, a mining company engaged in diamond mining in Canada (responsibly, they stress).

Bracciale di Nikos Koulis con smalto nero e diamanti  Canadamark
Bracciale di Nikos Koulis con smalto nero e diamanti Canadamark

The four designers engaged by Canadamark through the Muse agency are Mark Davis, Nikos Koulis, Silvia Furmanovich and Vram. Each designer made four Canadamark diamond jewels and for this reason, the series was called 4×4.

Anello di Nikos Koulis con smalto nero e diamanti Canadamark
Anello di Nikos Koulis con smalto nero e diamanti Canadamark

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Nikos Koulis, a Greek designer who creatively uses the Art Deco style and unusual geometric shapes, has chosen to expand his famous Oui collection, obviously with Canadamark diamonds. Sylvia Furmanovich, Brazilian designer was inspired by a Japanese maple leaf represented on a kimono from the Meiji period. Vram Minassian used diamonds with yellow gold to create jewelry with inusual curved shapes. Mark Davis combined Bakelite with diamonds to create pieces like a vintage air bracelet.





Anello di Sylvia Furmanovich realizzato in legno di acero giapponese scolpito, oro 18 carati e diamanti Canadamark
Anello di Sylvia Furmanovich realizzato in legno di acero giapponese scolpito, oro 18 carati e diamanti Canadamark
Bracciale di Sylvia Furmanovich in legno di acero giapponese scolpito, oro 18 carati e diamanti
Bracciale di Sylvia Furmanovich in legno di acero giapponese scolpito, oro 18 carati e diamanti

Vram, orecchinin oro e diamanti
Vram, orecchinin oro e diamanti

Vram, anello oro e diamanti
Vram, anello oro e diamanti

Orecchini di Mark Davis in bachelite e diamanti
Orecchini di Mark Davis in bachelite e diamanti

Bracciale di Mark Davis in bachelite e diamanti
Bracciale di Mark Davis in bachelite e diamanti







Here are Christie’s auction stars

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Rubini, a Fabergé tiara and a 118 carat fancy diamond: here are the stars of Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction ♦ ︎

More and more: the Magnificent Jewels auction organized by Christie’s in Geneva totaled sales of 77.2 million dollars (68 million euros). Also because the super auction also included watches and collector wines, as well as thrilling jewels. The number of visitors to the Four Season, where the auction was scheduled, also gives an idea of ​​the event: 3,000 went on a pilgrimage to see the 271 jewels, 249 watches, and wine bottles. Other statistical data: bidders from 51 countries on six continents, 87% of the lots found a buyer.

Anello con rubino birmano a forma di cuscino, di Harry Winston.
Anello con rubino birmano a forma di cuscino, di Harry Winston.

The king of the day was a ring with a Burmese ruby ​​in the shape of a pillow, by Harry Winston. A jewel that has tripled its pre-sale estimate and has been sold for 7.2 million dollars (6.3 million euros), “maximum price achieved in all homes in Geneva this spring”. Does anyone think it is an allusion at Sotheby’s?

Siamante giallo fancy 118 carati che è stato acquistato da Siba in onore di Sam Abram
Siamante giallo fancy 118 carati che è stato acquistato da Siba in onore di Sam Abram

The Magnificent Jewels auction took place in a very dynamic room for six hours with strong bidding across the globe. Natural pearls and jewels with noble provenance such as the 75.61 carat emerald from Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia found much acclaim and sold for far above their pre-sale estimates. Also, of note was the 118 cts fancy yellow diamond that was purchased by SIBA Corp. in honour of Sam Abram, a prominent figure in the Jewellery world, who very sadly passed away last week.
Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s Head of Jewelery International

Collana con 110 perle naturali
Collana con 110 perle naturali

Natural pearls continue to deliver strong prices. A necklace with 110 natural pearls was sold for 5.7 million dollars, doubling the pre-sale estimate. The period jewels are also well received. The Fabergé tiara made in 1904 as a wedding gift by Frederick Francis IV, Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin (1882-1945) to his wife Princess Alexandra of Hanover and Cumberland (1882-1963), composed of nine graduated pear-shaped aquamarines it was sold for 1 million dollars against a pre-sale estimate of 340,000. And the necklace owned by the Duchess Vladimir of Russia with a pear-shaped Colombian emerald was allocated to 4.3 million dollars. Also noteworthy is the price of the ring with the Jonker V diamond at 3 million dollars, which however remained within the range of the estimate. Federico Graglia





Smeraldo taglio a pera appartenuto alla duchessa Vladimir di Russia
Smeraldo taglio a pera appartenuto alla duchessa Vladimir di Russia

Diadema con acquamarine appartenuto alla gran duchessa Alexandra di Macklenburg-Schwerin
Diadema con acquamarine appartenuto alla gran duchessa Alexandra di Macklenburg-Schwerin

Collana di diamanti e rubini birmani di Van Cleef & Arpels, venduta per 2,4 milioni
Collana di diamanti e rubini birmani di Van Cleef & Arpels, venduta per 2,4 milioni

Il diamante Jonker V di 25,27 carati
Il diamante Jonker V di 25,27 carati





A marquise cut diamond wins with Faraone Casa d’Aste

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A Rolex and a marquise-cut diamond the most prominent pieces for the sale of Pharaoh Casa d’Aste ♦

Collectors, professionals intrigued by the selection of watches and private customers in search of a bargain, faces that are always new and exponential in number, have begun to work alongside traders who had always been in the front row seat in the two annual auctions of May and November. The May auction of Faraone Casa d’Aste, which was held at the Four Seasons Hotel in Milan, totaled purchases for 703,067.60 rights included. 50% of purchases were made by 31 private individuals, the rest by only seven traders. A fact that satisfies Faraone Casa d’Aste, which not only guarantees the excellent selection of the pieces placed at auction, but that has managed to convey the message that the purchase of jewelry and watches through the auction is convenient for an audience wider and not just exclusive to the sector operators.

Rolex Cioccolatone
Rolex Cioccolatone

In the rounds dedicated to watches, in the early hours of the afternoon, the auctioneer Luciano Carnaroli beat a Rolex Cioccolatone 1945 Ref 4645 with a rose gold case and bracelet worth 14,500 euros against a starting value of 9,000, in favor of a bidder on the telephone. A sale that has positively confirmed the intuition of the auction house to dedicate a special space to watches with its own auctioneer. In the part reserved for jewelry, the Patrizia di Carrobio auctioneer decreed the sale of lot 315, a marquise-cut diamond, D Color VVS2 of 4.98 Ct. Gia certificate, at the center of a series of raises between traders in the room and on the phone, for a final value of 90,000 in favor of a written offer from the United States and delivered a few hours before the start of the session.

Diamante taglio marquise venduto per 90.000 euro
Diamante taglio marquise venduto per 90.000 euro

We were used to an ever increasing turnout by private individuals at our previous auction dates, but we did not expect such a decisive role at the spring auction, usually attended by traders. This is a positive sign, a satisfaction and a praise of professionalism that I turn to all my team.
Vittoria Bianchi, managing director of Faraone Casa d’Aste







Diamonds in pills with As29

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The new As29 jewels: gold and diamonds as a medicine to bring back the good mood. And they succeed ♦ ︎

Why 29 is her favorite number? She hasn’t explained it yet. Certainly, however, the name As29 to its trendy jewelry house also derives from the initials of Audrey Savransky, who founded it. Born in Anvers in a family that has been trading in diamonds for four generations, the designer moved to London and then to Hong Kong, where she now resides. It is in the Asian city that she decided to combine her activity as a jeweler with that of a diamond dealer.

It was 2008. After ten year and more, the Maison is remained faithful to its very aggressive style, but clean, sometimes disorienting.

Bracciale della collezione Illusion in oro nero e diamanti
Bracciale della collezione Illusion in oro nero e diamanti

The design of As29’s jewels reflects the name of the Maison: it is synthetic and at the same time new. The idea is to offer jewelry with diamonds that can be worn at any time of the day, not only in the evening or in ceremonies. Of course, there is no shortage of pieces with a large number of carats, which advise against traveling on the subway to go to the office or a party with friends. But most jewelry has a luxury that can be lived without problems. Indeed, it dispels problems.

The designer, in fact, considers diamonds as a perfect medicine for women. And all As29 jewels are sold in pill-shaped packs. A fun way to present jewelry, which is certainly a medicine for your mood. Lavinia Andorno




Anello in oro nero 18 carati e diamante
Anello in oro nero 18 carati e diamante
Collezione Illusion, anello in oro nero 18 carati e diamanti
Collezione Illusion, anello in oro nero 18 carati e diamanti
Collezione Illusion, orecchini in oro nero 18 carati e diamanti
Collezione Illusion, orecchini in oro nero 18 carati e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti in oro nero e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti in oro nero e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco 18K e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco 18K e diamanti

Bracciale esagonale con pavé di diamanti
Bracciale esagonale con pavé di diamanti

Orecchini a goccia in oro bianco con diamanti
Orecchini a goccia in oro bianco con diamanti







The half million dollar Zip

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Diamonds and period jewels like the Zip necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels: here are the results of Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York ♦ ︎

A ring with two blue diamonds of 6.7 million dollars. It is the price realized for the most prominent piece of the Magnificent Jewels auction organized by Christie’s in New York. A sign that colored diamonds are still popular, even if the price did not reach the maximum estimate, which was 8 million dollars.

Anello con due diamanti Fancy Vivid Blue
Anello con due diamanti Fancy Vivid Blue

On the other hand, diamonds were still the most requested pieces. A rectangular-cut diamond of 16.33 carats, on platinum and 14-carat gold from Tiffany & Co was beaten to 1.6 million, another marquise-cut diamond ring of 16.69 carats totaled slightly less, 1.45 million, and an oval cut rose diamond ring was purchased for 1.4 million. Other stones have found buyers for figures of just under a million dollars.
Anello con diamante fancy pink di 6,11 carati
Anello con diamante fancy pink di 6,11 carati

The outcome of the sale of jewelry is interesting. The highest price was obtained by a Zip necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels: estimated for a maximum of 200,000 dollars, the piece was more than double: 483,000 green tickets. Instead, the diamond and sapphire bracelet sold for $ 435,000 respected the forecast. The sapphire has also won acclaim for a ring of Bulgari beaten at $ 375,000. And always of the Roman Maison, a multigemma necklace has found a buyer for $ 375,000. Federico Graglia





Anello di Tiffany con diamante di oltre 16 carati
Anello di Tiffany con diamante di oltre 16 carati

Anello di Bulgari con zaffiro e diamanti
Anello di Bulgari con zaffiro e diamanti
Bracciale con zaffiri e diamanti
Bracciale con zaffiri e diamanti
Collana multigemma di Bulgari
Collana multigemma di Bulgari
Collana Zip di Van Cleef & Arpels
Collana Zip di Van Cleef & Arpels

Diamante taglio marquise di 16,69 carati
Diamante taglio marquise di 16,69 carati montato su anello







Diamonds and dolphins at Christie’s

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Magnificent Jewels in New York with Christie’s: here are the most interesting pieces for sale at auction ♦ ︎

As always, as it was and as it will be, the Magnificent Jewels auctions hide pieces that make jewelry lovers go crazy. There is no need for some diamonds in the catalog to add a record to the list of more expensive gems. Jewels and exceptional stones, however, are not lacking at the auction on 16 April in New York organized by Christie’s. In short, the Magnificent Jewels rarely disappoint.
The auction (285 lots) includes a selection of colorless diamonds, colored diamonds and precious stones, along with important signed pieces by Bulgari, Cartier, Harry Winston, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels.

The king of the sale should be the Twin-Stone Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ring of 3.06 and 2.61 carats, two stones valued between 6 and 8 million dollars.

Anello con due diamanti Fancy Vivid Blue
Anello con due diamanti Fancy Vivid Blue

There are also three D-colored diamonds of over 15 carats, including a ring with marquise-cut diamonds of 16.69 carats, color D, type IIa, potentially internally flawless, from the Elizabeth Stafford collection (rated between 1.2 and 1.8 million).

Anello con diamante squadrato di oltre 17 carati
Anello con diamante squadrato di oltre 17 carati

Among the colored diamonds to report also a Fancy Pink Diamond Ring of 6.11 carats (1.2-1.5 million), a pair of Fancy Deep Yellow Diamond earrings of 7.55 and 7.51 carats, a Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond Ring of 37.65 carats and a pendant with an intense yellow diamond of 35.06 carats.

Anello con diamante fancy pink di 6,11 carati
Anello con diamante fancy pink di 6,11 carati

In addition to large stones, the catalog includes significant signed pieces by Bulgari, Cartier, Harry Winston, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels. In the collection of Florence and Herbert Irving there are, for example, a Burmese ring with 9.73 carat rubies and diamonds by Harry Winston, a sapphire from Madagascar and a diamond ring of 16.88 carats from Bulgari, a sapphire necklace and diamonds by Bulgari.
From the collection of Jean Tailer come a brooch in the shape of a dolphin with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and gold by Jean Schulmberger for Tiffany & Co. and a 18.36 carat diamond ring, J Color, VS2, by Cartier. Federico Graglia




Spilla a forma di delfino in oro, smeraldi, diamanti firmata da Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany
Spilla a forma di delfino in oro, smeraldi, diamanti firmata da Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany

Orecchini con diamanti, tormalina e rubellite
Orecchini con diamanti, tormalina e rubellite
Anello con diamanti e zaffiro di Bulgari, anello con diamanti e rubino di Harry Winston
Anello con diamanti e zaffiro di Bulgari, anello con diamanti e rubino di Harry Winston
Bracciale con zaffiri e diamanti
Bracciale con zaffiri e diamanti

Bracciale art déco con smeraldi, onice e diamanti di Maubussin
Bracciale art déco con smeraldi, onice e diamanti di Maubussin







Graff’s square diamond record

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This Graff’s maxi diamond weighs over 302 carats and is the largest in the world with the square cut ♦ ︎

Not always a weight loss diet is better solution, even if in the collective imagination, especially in women, thinness is synonymous with beauty. The same rule also applies to diamonds. Maison Graff, however, succeeded in the enterprise: it had a diamond of 1,109 carats at 302.37 carats that has lose weight. The result is a square emerald-cut diamond that has christened Graff Lesedi La Rona. The stone holds the record of grandeur in that particular cut. Not only is it a diamond of exceptional size, but it is also of excellent quality. It is the largest stone, with better clarity classified by the Gemological Institute of America.

Il diamante Graff Lesedi La Rona
Il diamante Graff Lesedi La Rona

Initially Graff thought that obtaining a diamond over 300 carats from the stone was impossible given the conformation of the original stone. But in about a year and a half of study and work the rough stone was divided into 66 small satellite diamonds, with a weight ranging from 1 carat to about 26 carats.

We had an immense duty to cut the very, very best diamond imaginable from this rough. All our expertise, skill and accomplishment went into crafting this incredible diamond masterpiece, which is extraordinary in every way. The Graff Lesedi La Rona is an exceptional diamond with an exceptional cut and exceptional proportions, earning its place in history as the largest and finest of its kind in the world.
Laurence Graff

Il diamante da 302,37 carati
Il diamante da 302,37 carati

Graff had purchased the diamond from the Canadian mining company Lucara Diamond for 53 million dollars. The diamond is one of the largest ever extracted from the earth. Translated into grams, it weighs about 2 hectograms and is as big as a tennis ball. Graff treated the price of obtaining the stone for a year. The diamond was named Lesedi La Rona (which means Our light in the Tswana language) and was discovered in November 2015 by Lucara Diamonds in Botswana, a country that became the second largest diamond producer after Russia.
It is the largest diamond discovered in over a century (the heaviest is still the Cullinan, from 3,016.75 carats, discovered in 1905 in South Africa). Federico Graglia





Graff Lesedi La Rona
Graff Lesedi La Rona

Il diamante grezzo pesava 1.109 carati
Il diamante grezzo pesava 1.109 carati

Lesedi La Rona prima del taglio
Lesedi La Rona prima del taglio







Jewels with blue blood from Sotheby’s

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Princely jewels and a Fabergé tiara: Sotheby’s proposes rare pieces have belonged to the European aristocracy ♦ ︎

For those who love fine jewelry, the Fabergé name is like Raphael or Leonardo for art lovers: a champion who has marked a chapter in history. This is why the Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction scheduled in Geneva on May 14th is particularly interesting.

Among the jewels on sale, in fact, a diamond tiara attributed to Fabergé stands out, created around 1903 for the duchess Cecilie von Mecklenburg-Schwerin (1886-1954), the last hereditary princess of Prussia.

The tiara was given to the princess by her Russian relatives on the occasion of her marriage to Crown Prince William (1882-1951). The diadem has an estimate of 200,000 – 300,000 dollars.

As we saw last November with Marie Antoinette’s pearl, historic jewels have the power to transport us back to a moment in time. The tiara attributed to Fabergé is another perfect example: its Kokoshnik design reflects Crown Princess Cecilie’s Russian family, who gifted it to her for her wedding; from portraits we can see that she paired the tiara with her gowns in a very fashion-forward way for the very early 1900s. For so many collectors today – who seek out unique pieces with ‘soul’ – this jewel is really a masterpiece.

Tiara di diamanti -attribuita a Fabergé, circa 1903
Tiara di diamanti -attribuita a Fabergé, circa 1903

Daniela Mascetti, president of Sotheby’s Jewelry, Europe

The history of this tiara is linked to the fate of the Duchess Cecilie von Mecklenburg-Schwerin, who would become the last hereditary princess of Prussia. In June 1905, tens of thousands of people flocked to Berlin, the capital, to attend his marriage. It was the largest social event of the century still young. The extravagant celebrations lasted four days and the couple was showered with gifts, including silver, porcelain and even a splendid carriage drawn by Hungarian gray stallions, presented by the Austrian Emperor, Francesco Giuseppe I. Among the beautiful jewels given to the spouses there was the tiara attributed to Fabergé, an extraordinary gift from Cecilie’s Russian relatives.

Collana di smeraldi e diamanti, circa 1935
Collana di smeraldi e diamanti, circa 1935

But the tiara will not be the most important jewel from the point of view of evaluation. Among the period pieces, for example, there is an Art Deco necklace, attributed to Van Cleef & Arpels. The beautiful necklace is of emeralds and diamonds and was created in the 1930s by Hélène Beaumont (1894 – 1988), an American and friend of the Duchess of Windsor. The necklace has 11 Colombian emeralds for a total of over 75 carats and is estimated at 3-4 million dollars. It is also a very versatile jewel: the central sections of emeralds and diamonds in the necklace can be detached and worn as bracelets.

This is Art Deco at its absolute finest, a connoisseur’s jewel. Rare and exceptional pieces like these are the reason people collect Jewellery. The first time I laid eyes on this emerald and diamond necklace was exactly 25 years ago when we sold the Hélène Beaumont collection in Geneva. I said at the time that it was the most important row of cabochon emeralds I had seen during my then 20-year career. Today, 25 years on, that statement still holds true.
David Bennett, president of Sotheby’s Worldwide Jewelery

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo di Harry Winston
Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo di Harry Winston

The other jewels

After the sale of a spectacular oval diamond of 88.22 carats in Hong Kong, in Geneva two exceptional white diamonds will be on sale. The first, a brilliant-cut stone, weighs 36.57 carats (estimate 4.7- 5.7 million). Harry Winston’s second emerald cut diamond weighing 18.86 carats is valued up to 1.2 million. Both diamonds are of color D: the highest possible chromatic classification for white diamonds and belong to the rare subgroup of type IIa diamonds – which includes less than 2% of all diamonds, including the legendary Koh-i-Noor diamonds that they are part of the jewels of the British crown. Type IIa diamonds often boast exceptional optical transparency.

Spilla in onice, diamanti, rubini di Cartier, circa 1925
Spilla in onice, diamanti, rubini di Cartier, circa 1925

Another prominent jewel is an Indian-inspired jabot created by Cartier around 1925, during the period considered the maximum creativity of the house. With oval rubies, diamonds and polished onyx, the jewel reflects the important influence of India in Cartier’s work: it is inspired by a traditional ornament worn on a male turban, known as the sarpech. Another special jewel is a necklace with emeralds and diamonds created by the Maison of Trieste Janesich around 1920. The necklace has delicately carved emeralds depicting bunches of grapes and leaves. Finally, to report a ring with a central Kashmir sapphire of 8.35 carats. Federico Graglia

Anello con zaffiro del Kashmir e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro del Kashmir e diamanti