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Juste un clou. Photo: Jean-Jacques Pallot © Cartier 2013

Cipullo’s 70s jewels

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The Cartier jewels designed by Aldo Cipullo: the seventies are a classic ♦

From the bijoux and silver chains of Tuscany to the altars of New York and Paris high jewelry: the story of Aldo Cipullo is probably unrepeatable. The son of a manufacturer of costume jewelery components, as there are many between Florence and Arezzo, Aldo Cipullo moved to New York in 1959, having learned the secrets of the trade from his father. But his reason for living was design and jewelry. First he worked for Tiffany, then for David Web. But his consecration as a great designer took place with Cartier, in 1969, the year of the moon landing.

Aldo Cipullo
Aldo Cipullo

With the French Maison he signed some of the pieces that marked an era, such as the Love bracelet. The idea: two bands of gold held together and tightened on the wrist by a small screwdriver. It is one of the first jewels considered unisex. To launch the bracelet, Cartier gives 25 bracelets double, for him and for her, to as many famous couples, including Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. Liz wears Love in the movie X, Y & Zee, and contributes to the success of the jewel.

Bracciale Love di Cartier disegnato da Aldo Cipullo
Bracciale Love di Cartier disegnato da Aldo Cipullo
Liz Taylor, con Richard Burton, indossa il bracciale Love
Liz Taylor, con Richard Burton, indossa il bracciale Love

Another icon is the Cartier formed by a twisted nail. And in 1972 it was the turn of another iconic jewel, Juste un Clou. A simple bent nail that breaks jewelery conventions with a form borrowed from the world of tools. Cartier proposes this jewel several times, even in new versions with diamonds. A success that convinces Cartier to allow the designer to sign his creations for Cartier, an honor he was the only one to obtain.

Il bracciale in oro rosa e diamanti Just un clou
Il bracciale in oro rosa e diamanti Just un clou

The contamination of gold and semi-precious stones (such as lapis lazuli, carnelian, onyx, jade), the large rings that form necklaces and earrings, the decidedly attuned style of the Seventies, make Cipullo signed jewelry a classic that continues to be appreciated. The designer died in 1984, at age 48, but his jewelry is still produced and sold. Cartier dedicated a retrospective exhibition to Cipullo in 2012. Because his myth still lasts.

Bracciale per Cartier in oro, cristallo di rocca e onice
Bracciale per Cartier in oro, cristallo di rocca e onice
Orecchini per Cartier in oro, lapislazzuli e onice
Orecchini per Cartier in oro, lapislazzuli e onice
Collana per Cartier in oro e corniola
Collana per Cartier in oro e corniola
Collana in oro, crisoprasio e corallo
Collana in oro, crisoprasio e corallo
Orecchini del 1973 in oro, onice, corniola per Cartier
Orecchini del 1973 in oro, onice, corniola per Cartier

Juste un clou. Photo: Jean-Jacques Pallot © Cartier 2013
Juste un clou. Photo: Jean-Jacques Pallot © Cartier 2013







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