Vacheron Constantin

The Louvre in Vacheron Constantin watches

Are you art lovers? How about wearing a Rubens? It is possible, if you have an adequate bank account. Vacheron Constantin proposes the idea of work-watches It is the development of the A masterpiece on the wrist initiative: a limited edition of a single Les Cabinotiers timepiece, whose dial can be decorated with the enamel reproduction of a work of art of the Louvre Museum chosen by the buyer. A story that the Swiss Maison (Vacheron Constantin was born in 1755) has already started in 2019, with a partnership with the Louvre Museum, which allows it to offer customers an experience that goes far beyond personalizing a timepiece.

Vacheron Constantin, Les Cabinotiers – Omaggio a Pierre Paul Rubens, La lutte pour l'étendard de la Bataille d'Anghiari
Vacheron Constantin, Les Cabinotiers – Omaggio a Pierre Paul Rubens, La lutte pour l’étendard de la Bataille d’Anghiari

The idea is the result of the example of the limited edition watch Les Cabinotiers, Homage to Pierre Paul Rubens, La lutte pour l’étendard de la Bataille d’Anghiari, coming from the Bid for the Louvre auction of 2020. It is haute horlogerie that becomes the motif of a prestigious collection.

Studio preparatorio per l'orologio
Preparatory study for the wristwatch

The processing is particularly complex. After using line drawing to clearly outline the details of the contours, the Maison’s master enameller traced the outline of the dial. During the following stages, he tried to recreate the great delicacy of Rubens’ drawing through very clear and muted shades and halftones. The master enameller used around 20 shades of brown, gray brown, sepia brown and cream brown: a surprising number, which corresponds to as many firings at 900 degrees Celsius. The first layers were fired very lightly, just to start the vitrification, so that subsequent firings would not alter the first shades.

Cerca Trova
Cerca Trova

For the watch, grisaille enamel was used, the result of years of practice in Limoges, to reproduce the sensitivity of the work of art with countless tiny details connected to each other and replicated identically, maintaining the graphics and specificities of the original work. The combination of miniature enamel and grisaille enamel, as original as it is brilliant, has given rise to a timepiece powered by the Manufacture caliber 2460 SC, whose oscillating weight is engraved with the east facade of the Louvre. The motto Cerca Trova, which dates back to the 17th century, is engraved on the hinged case back.

Massa oscillante in oro rosa 22 carati con incisione della facciata est del Louvre
Oscillating weight in 22-carat pink gold engraved with the east facade of the Louvre

Les Cabinotiers – Tribute to Pierre Paul Rubens, La lutte pour l’étendard de la Bataille d’Anghiari

Caliber 2460 SC
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Self-winding mechanical
26.2 mm (11 1/4 lines) in diameter, 3.6 mm thick
Oscillating weight in 22-carat pink gold engraved with the east facade of the Louvre
About 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
182 components
27 rubies
Timepiece certified with the Hallmark of Geneva
Indications Hours, minutes and seconds in the centre
Rose gold case
Caseback with hinge and line engraving
40mm in diameter, 9.42mm thick
Miniature dial on enamel and grisaille enamel
Rose gold hands
Strap Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather
Buckle Rose gold pin buckle
Box set Les Cabinotiers box set
Edition limited to one copy only
Certificate of authenticity for the reproduction of the masterpiece issued by the Louvre.
Warranty certificate issued by Vacheron Constantin.

Vacheron Constantin, Les Cabinotiers – Omaggio a Pierre Paul Rubens, La lutte pour l'étendard de la Bataille d'Anghiari
Vacheron Constantin, Les Cabinotiers – Omaggio a Pierre Paul Rubens, La lutte pour l’étendard de la Bataille d’Anghiari

Vacheron Constantin, new Overseas with retrodate date

Vacheron Constantin is the oldest watch manufacturer in the world: it was founded in 1755, obviously in Switzerland. But that doesn’t mean he gives up on opening up new challenges. At Watch and Wonders 2023 in Geneva, the Maison presented its first sports watch with a retrograde date display. In other words, instead of traveling a 360-degree circle, a hand moves in a narrower arc, numbering from 1 to 31. Another distinctive point is the technical complexity in a sporty-chic style.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas fasi lunari data retrograda
Vacheron Constantin Overseas fasi lunari data retrograda

The in-house caliber 2460 R31L/2 has precision moon phases, which only require a one-day correction every 122 years, presumably when the watch will be from another owner. The retrograde indication is a function that is part of Vacheron Constantin’s heritage, but is used for the first time in the Overseas line. However, the new model retains the characteristics that characterize the collection: hexagonal bezel evoking the Maltese cross, fluted crown, polished and satin finishes, translucent lacquered dial, luminescent hour markers and hands, to which it associates the retrograde date and precision moonphase .
Quadrante traslucido laccato blu, finitura satinata soleil e rehaut con finitura effetto vellutato Indici delle ore e lancette delle ore, dei minuti e della data in oro bianco evidenziati da Super-LumiNova blu
Quadrante traslucido laccato blu, finitura satinata soleil e rehaut con finitura effetto vellutato
Indici delle ore e lancette delle ore, dei minuti e della data in oro bianco evidenziati da Super-LumiNova blu

The Overseas collection continues the design history, with new calibres, of the original model born in 1996. The idea is to combine Haute Horlogerie and casual elegance. Over the years, the different versions of the Overseas have kept hexagonal bezels, in-house self-winding movements and interchangeable bracelet-straps. All features present in the new Overseas model with retrograde date and moon phases. At the heart of the 41 mm diameter steel case is the Manufacture caliber 2460 R31L/2, which for the first time in this collection combines a retrograde date and a highly precise moonphase. The blue lacquered dial creates a play of light thanks to the rehaut, the outer part on which numbers and additional scales such as the tachymeter scales are engraved, with a velvety finish and sunray satin center. The complications are legible with great clarity.
Cinturino aggiuntivo in caucciù blu
Cinturino aggiuntivo in caucciù blu

It took several months of aesthetic research to combine a precision moon phase and a retrograde date in a sporty yet elegant case, while ensuring high legibility and balance. The first step was to integrate the retrograde date, the Maison’s signature, into a sports-inspired watch.
L'orologio mostra ore, minuti, data retrograda, fasi lunari di precisione, età della luna
L’orologio mostra ore, minuti, data retrograda, fasi lunari di precisione, età della luna

The self-winding Manufacture caliber 2460 R31L/2 has a 40-hour power reserve. The movement, which has 275 components, can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case back. In particular, the pearly surface of the plate and the 22-karat gold oscillating weight adorned with a stylized wind rose recalling the themes of travel and exploration. The phases of the moon are visible through an aperture at 6 o’clock, with a graduated scale from 0 to 29½, which serves to count the days since the last new moon. This complication, known as the age of the moon, corresponds to the rotation of our satellite around the Earth, which takes 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes.
Il calibro è meccanico a carica automatica. Massa oscillante Overseas in oro 22 carati 27,2 mm (11 linee e 1/2) di diametro, 5,4 mm di spessore. Circa 40 ore di riserva di carica
Il calibro è meccanico a carica automatica. Massa oscillante Overseas in oro 22 carati 27,2 mm (11 linee e 1/2) di diametro, 5,4 mm di spessore. Circa 40 ore di riserva di carica

A retrograde date indication with a central hand occupies the top of the dial. To ensure optimal use, all functions are set via the crown: winding, date correction, moon phase and time adjustment. The timepiece is delivered on a steel bracelet accompanied by two calfskin and blue rubber straps.

Acciaio (maglie lucide e satinate a mezza Croce di Malta) dotato di una chiusura déployante a tripla lama in acciaio inossidabile con pulsanti e sistema di regolazione
Acciaio (maglie lucide e satinate a mezza Croce di Malta) dotato di una chiusura déployante a tripla lama in acciaio
inossidabile con pulsanti e sistema di regolazione

Dragons and phoenix at the time of Vacheron Constantin




The biggest watch collectors are found in Asia. And in China the dragon is a mythological animal full of meanings. In the West, on the other hand, it is the phoenix, a bird reborn from its ashes, that has entered mythology, even if the bird is also present in Chinese tradition. Two aspects that prompted Vacheron Constantin to create three Traditionnelle tourbillon timepieces in a limited and numbered edition of 16 pieces for each type of watch, inspired by these two symbolic animals. On the hand-guilloché dial, the phoenix and dragon take the form of sculpted rose gold applications.

Il retro dell'orologio
Il retro dell’orologio

The three versions of the model are different starting from the galvanic treatment of the dial: it can be black, dark blue and silver. The pink gold case has a diameter of 41 millimeters, and is engraved with cloud-shaped scrollwork on the bezel and lugs, forming a low-relief motif on the caseband. The watch uses the self-winding caliber 2160 with tourbillon and consists of 188 elements. The ultra-thin movement is just 5.65 millimeters thick thanks to the peripheral rotor, which guarantees an 80-hour power reserve. The case has a sapphire crystal case back, through which the details of the finishes can be admired.
Traditionnelle tourbillon di Vacheron Costantin
Traditionnelle tourbillon di Vacheron Costantin

The Traditionnelle tourbillon watch therefore reproduces the dance of the phoenix and dragon around the pearl, one of the typical symbols of Chinese tradition. The finish of the watch evolved along the way: initially the pearl had to be polished and the flames sandblasted, but in reality, due to its very small thickness (3/10 of a millimetre), the Maison decided to do the opposite . The mythical creatures are represented through rose gold applications, printed and finished by hand with the ramolayage technique, which involves modeling with a burin and the subsequent smoothing of the parts in relief with a file. The exquisite details and precise operations used to depict the plumage of the rooster-headed phoenix, symbol of the Chinese empress, and the undulating body of the scaled dragon, emblem of the emperor, orchestrate a celestial choreography.
Una fase della lavorazione del segnatempo
Una fase della lavorazione del segnatempo

The whole scene comes to life thanks to the Maltese cross-shaped movable tourbillon cage, emblem of Vacheron Constantin, while the regulator acts as a support for one of the dragon’s legs, and the beating of the phoenix’s wings seems to mark the rhythm. On the lunette and on the handles, the sky is symbolized by a series of volutes carved in bas-relief.
Retro del Traditionnelle tourbillon
Retro del Traditionnelle tourbillon

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Traditionnelle tourbillon
References 6040T/000R-B959
6040T/000R-B960
6040T/000R-B961
Caliber 2160/1
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, peripheral rotor
31 mm (13 1/2 lines) in diameter, 5.65 mm thick
About 80 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
188 components
30 rubies
Timepiece certified by the Hallmark of Geneva
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon cage (colored screw)
Tourbillon
Rose gold case
41mm in diameter, 11.21mm thick
Hand engraved bezel and lug sides
See-through sapphire crystal caseback
Waterproof tested at a pressure of 3 bar (about 30 meters)
Gold dial, hand guilloché, silver/dark blue/black galvanic treatment
Hand engraved and applied rose gold phoenix and dragon
Strap Brown/dark blue/black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator lining, hand-stitched, topstitched, large square scales
Buckle Rose gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross
Limited edition consisting of 16 individually numbered copies.
Available exclusively at Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.
Lavorazione del Traditionnelle tourbillon
Lavorazione del Traditionnelle tourbillon

L'orologio indossato
L’orologio indossato

Una delle tre versioni dell'orologio
Una delle tre versioni dell’orologio







The second edition of Vo Vintage is already scheduled





A great little success. The first edition of Vo Vintage, a mini fair inside the VicenzaOro fair, met with great public interest. The area dedicated to watchmaking and vintage jewelery was, in fact, a gamble. Organized in a floor open to the public of VicenzaOro (which is instead an event reserved for operators), and in a more limited period (18-20 January) it saw the participation of 30 exhibitors. A success that pushed the organizers of Ieg to already plan the next edition.

Al piano superiore Vo Vintage, sotto VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Al piano superiore Vo Vintage, sotto VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Vo Vintage has attracted collectors of vintage jewelry and watches, a growing market estimated in our country at 1 billion euros. Not only fair, however, but also cultural events, such as Vo Vintage Talk, a dialogue between Michele Mengoli, one of the greatest Italian watchmaking experts and Sandro Fratini, famous Italian collector of vintage watches, with a heritage of over 2000 pieces from the worth approximately 1 billion euros, among which the Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet brands stand out. The new format could also count on the valuable contributions of Giulio Papi, director of Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi, Stefano Mazzariol, one of the greatest experts of Rolex Daytona in the world, and Bruno Bergamaschi, with his Watches & Passions forum, Ugo Pancani of the Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie, by the president of Assorologi Mario Peserico.

Lavoro su orologi d'epoca a Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Lavoro su orologi d’epoca a Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli d'epoca a Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli d’epoca a Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro January 2020
VicenzaOro January 2020

Gioielli d'epoca a Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli e orologi a Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com