Ukraine

Gems for Ukraine with Nomad’s




Precious gems to be auctioned for Ukraine. The idea was launched by Nomad’s, a company born in Ukraine, but which now operates in the cutting and trading of precious stones all over the world. Nomad’s started an auction on Ukraine’s Independence Day, August 24, which also marks six months since the invasion of Russian troops. The online auction aims to support the country. Nomad’s will donate the entire proceeds to United24, the support program launched by President Volodymyr Zelenskyy.

L'asta di gemme di Nomad's
L’asta di gemme di Nomad’s

For sale are 13 gems, including a Ukrainian topaz and heliodor beryl from the Volodarsk-Volynskii mine, a pair of 3.63-carat tanzanites, a 10.11-carat blue-green tourmaline and a 72-carat amethyst stone. , 40 carat. Although Nomad’s usually only sells to professional buyers, the company has opened the auction to everyone so everyone can get involved.

Tormalina di Nomad's
Tormalina di Nomad’s
Granato spessartite
Granato spessartite

Rubellite
Rubellite







Svetlana Lazar, Ukraine in California




From Ukraine to California, but well before the eastern country was invaded by the Russian army. Svetlana Lazar moved to San Francisco when she was only eight, then she graduated from high school and attended courses in sculpture and jewelry, to learn the goldsmith technique needed to start her own business. But she, before her, she had a lot of practice: for 11 years she worked at the counter of a jewelry retailer, with the carving and setting of stones. A hard work which, on the other hand, has endowed Svetlana with precision and awareness in her own means.

Anello in oro 18 carati con tormalina e piccoli diamanti
Anello in oro 18 carati con tormalina e piccoli diamanti

As with many other American designers with roots in distant countries, it is legitimate to ask whether Svetlana Lazar’s jewels also reflect her history and culture of origin. The answer is no. The jewels are made of 18 karat gold, with the addition of stones such as tourmaline, or opal, aquamarine or sodalite, together with small diamonds or sapphires. Some stones are set in such a way as to suggest movement across the translucent surfaces of the gems.

Orecchini in oro 18 carati con sodalite a goccia, tormaline rosse e zaffiri
Orecchini in oro 18 carati con sodalite a goccia, tormaline rosse e zaffiri
Orecchini The Moth in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Orecchini The Moth in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Anello in oro con pietra luna rainbow e diamanti
Anello in oro con pietra luna rainbow e diamanti
Orecchini in oro con pietra luna rainbow, zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini in oro con pietra luna rainbow, zaffiri e diamanti
Collana in oro con pietra luna rainbow, diamanti e zaffiri
Collana in oro con pietra luna rainbow, diamanti e zaffiri
Anello con opale etiope, su oro 22 carati e argento annerito
Anello con opale etiope, su oro 22 carati e argento annerito







New jewelers in support of Ukraine




Jewelers in support of Ukraine. In March, some jewelers launched a fundraiser for children who were victims of war. So far they have raised around £ 25,000 for Hope and Homes for Children, an NGO currently working in Ukraine, in combination with gems extracted from a Brazilian Cruzeiro mine. The support action continues and other designs have been added in recent months. Brazilian-born designer Ana Khouri, for example, has just donated a pair of earrings in yellow beryl and blue indicolite tourmaline, the colors of the Ukrainian flag.

Orecchini di Ana Khouri con tormalina indicolite e berillo
Orecchini di Ana Khouri con tormalina indicolite e berillo

The idea of ​​the jewelry for Ukraine is by Annabel Davidson of Vanity Fair on Jewelery: when Russia started the war she was in Brazil visiting the Cruzeiro mine, which is located in the state of Minas Gerais, north of Sao Paulo . The mine produces tourmaline, quartz, morganite, aquamarine and garnet, as well as blue indicolite tourmaline and yellow heliodine, the colors of the Ukrainian flag. Davidson put two and two together.

Anello di Carla Amorim con tormalina indicolite e berillo giallo
Anello di Carla Amorim con tormalina indicolite e berillo giallo

The CEO of the mine, Douglas Neves, immediately agreed to donate the gems for the project to support the Ukrainian people. They joined immediately: Carla Amorim, Ara Vartanian, Prasi and Kika Alvarenga from Brazil, Jessica McCormack in London,  Ana Khouri in New York and Maggi Simpkins based in Los Angeles, together with Ruth Tomlinson and Sophie Breitmeyer. Other jewelers, such as Solange Azagury-Partridge, Anabela Chan and Robinson Pelham, have instead decided to support the Red Cross or organizations such as Care and Save the Children UK.

Bracciale di Robinson Pelham venduto al prezzo di 100 sterline
Bracciale di Robinson Pelham venduto al prezzo di 100 sterline

The support is also an opportunity for jewelry lovers, who are drawn by lot. Every three weeks a piece of jewelry is up for grabs on JustGiving.com between anyone who makes a donation of 10 euros or pounds. The money raised is passed on to Hope and Homes for Children, which supports volunteers in Ukraine.
Gioielli a forma di girasole, il fiore dell'Ukraina, di Anabela Chan
Gioielli a forma di girasole, il fiore dell’Ucraina, di Anabela Chan

Anelli Hot Lips di Solange Azagury-Partridge
Anelli Hot Lips di Solange Azagury-Partridge







The Ukrainian jewelers at GemGèneve




Jewelery cannot and is not alien to what happens in the world. Thus GemGèneve, an event that hosts companies specializing in the trade of gems, high-end vintage jewelry and a patrol of new designers, also hosted the Strong & Precious project, with the aim of presenting the work of some Ukrainian jewelry designers. The idea is to present Ukraine as a country with a strong potential for jewelry. Ukraine, in fact, is the homeland of jewelers such as Oscar Heyman and Marshak, both of whom had Ukrainian roots and are the brightest examples of Ukrainian goldsmith craftsmanship.

Orecchini di Zhernov
Orecchini di Zhernov

The designers present in Geneva were selected by Olga Oleksenko and Natalia Kietiene. They are very different works, according to the style and technique of the different designers. Some are inspired by the goldsmith tradition of the origins, while others propose themselves as innovators, with original solutions. In short, it is a jewelry store that needs to be developed, as long as it is possible to overcome the difficult moment that the country is going through.
Anelli di Oberig
Anelli di Oberig

I have been working in the jewellery industry for years and always had a passion for collecting. My collection predominantly consists of high jewellery pieces from the XX century by well known names. However now I feel disconnected from them, they are irrelevant for me. I am admiring small independent Ukrainian brands instead. They make things that make sense, reflecting the current situation in my native country.
Olga Oleksenko

Gioiello di Brua
Gioiello di Brua
Anello di Guzema
Anello di Guzema
Orecchino di Inesa Kovalova
Orecchino di Inesa Kovalova
Collana di Lutiki
Collana di Lutiki
Anello Megapolis di Inesa Kivalova. Photo: Ira Merk
Anello Megapolis di Inesa Kivalova. Photo: Ira Merk

Gioielli di Nomis
Gioielli di Nomis







War splits the Responsible Jewelery Council




The war unleashed by Russia in Ukraine is also upsetting the world of diamonds. After the measures against Alrosa (a Russian mining company) decided by the United States, it is the Responsible Jewelery Council that split. And Iris Van der Veken, executive director of the Rjc, an association with about 1,500 members that sets the standards of the diamond supply chain, has resigned. In fact, the association has so far avoided suspending Alrosa.

Iris Van der Veken
Iris Van der Veken

The only change noted, in fact, is the resignation from the position of vice president of the RJC of the CEO of Alrosa, Sergey Ivanov. But the company, controlled by the Russian government, remained among the partners. The lack of a suspension has displeased many. Starting with Pandora, which is also the largest jewelry company in the world, which announced its decision to leave the organization due to RJC’s failure to suspend Russian companies (not just Alrosa) and urged its members to interrupt business with the country: “Pandora cannot , in good faith, be a member of an association that does not share our values, “said the CEO of the Danish group, Alexander Lacik.
Sergey Ivanov, Ceo di Alrosa
Sergey Ivanov, Ceo di Alrosa

A few hours later, the communication from the Richemont group (Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Buccellati) also arrived, which specified that they did not wish to be members of “a sector organization that includes companies that contribute to the financing of conflicts and wars “. Two exits of weight, in short. Will others follow?
La miniera di diamanti Cullinan
La miniera di diamanti Cullinan

Il diamante trovato nella miniera di Karowe, in Botswana
Il maxi diamante trovato nella miniera di Karowe, in Botswana







Does war raise the cost of diamonds?




Will the war in Ukraine also raise the price of diamonds? The question is legitimate. In fact, Alrosa, a state-controlled mining giant that controls 90% of the country’s production and is the first mining company in the world, has also been targeted by sanctions against Russia. To give an idea of ​​the size: in 2021 Alrosa sold 32.4 million carats of rough diamonds, which is equivalent to almost 30% of world production. In short, one in three diamonds comes from Russia. And the CEO of Alrosa, Sergey Ivanov, is on the list of rich Russian billionaires who have been targeted by sanctions.

Sergey Ivanov, Ceo di Alrosa
Sergey Ivanov, Ceo di Alrosa

Among other things, he is the son of former Defense Minister Sergei Ivanov, a close associate of President Vladimir Putin and is also a board member of Gazprombank, an emanation of the oil and gas giant. As a reaction, Alrosa has suspended its membership of the Natural Diamond Council, a market alliance of the world’s leading producers of precious stones.

Il diamante è stato ricavato da una pietra grezza di 179 carati
Diamante di Alrosa ricavato da una pietra grezza di 179 carati

At the same time, however, the Russian state also controls a secret reserve of diamonds, the Gokhran, which it uses to stabilize prices and to generate revenue in times of crisis. In addition, Alrosa has so far bypassed US sanctions and has managed to ensure a smooth flow of diamonds to India, where a good number of diamonds are polished and cut, around 10%. But Tiffany, for example, has just announced that it will no longer buy diamonds from Russia.

Il diamante brown di Alrosa da 27,02 carati utilizzato per una collana di Anna Hu
Il diamante brown di Alrosa da 27,02 carati utilizzato per la collana di Anna Hu

There is, then, another factor to take into account: in the days preceding the sanctions many of the so-called oligarchs or, at least, a good number of rich Russians rushed to jewelers all over the world, but in particular in the Emirates, to buy jewels and stones. It is an easily transportable asset and, unlike the bank account, it can hardly be identified and seized. Conversely, a diamond can be easily resold anywhere in the world, even if the credit card is blocked. In short, a diamond is a kind of insurance policy in difficult times. But, of course, many purchases also mean price strain. Not to mention that for years there have been Russian criminal groups operating in Europe and the US and using diamonds to launder their illicit profits. An operation that could be further encouraged by the climate of war.

Diamante nel laboratorio Tiffany di Anversa
Diamante nel laboratorio Tiffany di Anversa

All this worries companies specializing in diamond processing. The Antwerp World Diamond Center has suggested that the restrictions may prove detrimental to the sector, as Russia can continue to sell diamonds to countries such as India and China. True. But it is certainly not easy to quickly replace the Antwerp specialists in the delicate work of diamond cutting. And Russia sells diamonds rough.
A problem, in any case, which adds up to very small stocks of diamonds: according to Bain & Company, in the coffers of the operators at the beginning of the year, before the war, the stocks had decreased by about 40%, driven by the high demand and the slow resumption of production. In short, there were already fewer diamonds in circulation. And now giving away the classic solitaire is likely to be much more expensive.

Diamanti in vendita ad Anversa
Diamanti in vendita ad Anversa






Aid for Ukraine from Yana Nesper




Jewels for Ukraine. Or, rather, a jewelry designer has organized a subscription in favor of the populations affected by the war. The organizer is Yana Nesper, a designer who lives and works in Germany. And that she is particularly involved in what happened: she herself is proudly Ukrainian. She was born, in fact, in the city of Mykolayiw, which was under siege by the Russian army. For this Yana has promoted a chain of aid for the population.

Yana Nesper assieme al presidente dell'Ucraina, Volodymyr Zelenskiy
Yana Nesper assieme al presidente dell’Ucraina, Volodymyr Zelenskiy

Yana Nesper, an entrepreneur and mother of two children, is also an excellent pianist. She is originally from Mykolayiw, Ukraine, a city on the Black Sea near Odessa. In 1994 the designer married Frank Nesper, managing director of Heinz Nesper, a jewelry company specializing in pearls in Pforzheim, Germany. And since 2010 Yana is also the jewelry designer: her collections are refined, elegant, sober. But in the face of the tragedy of the war, her profession now takes a back seat.
Bracciale Charmant in oro 18 carati e perle Akoya
Bracciale Charmant in oro 18 carati e perle Akoya

Bracciale in oro e perla
Bracciale in oro e perla
Orecchini in oro giallo18 carati e perle
Orecchini in oro giallo18 carati e perle








From Kidult support for Ukrainian refugees




There are also signs of solidarity for Ukraine from the world of jewelry. Like that of Kidult, the Italian brand of bijoux at affordable prices, which is activated with a new project. together with Cesvi, a secular and independent humanitarian organization founded in 1985, which immediately activated itself with the Ukraine Emergency project to support the millions of refugees, almost half of whom are children, on the various gates with neighboring countries.

Bracciale per la festa del papà
Bracciale per la festa del papà

Mabina (the company that owns the Kidult brand) has decided to support Cesvi, donating 20% of the turnover generated by the purchases made on the website www.discoverkidult.com in the period between March 15th and April 15th. In 2020 Kidult has already supported several initiatives to fight covid.
Bracciale con pietre brown
Bracciale con pietre brown

Bracciale in acciaio
Bracciale in acciaio