PIETRE Archives | gioiellis.com

Filippo G&G, the reflections of shining

Published on January 10, 2024

Are you in love with gems? You should know Filippo Gay, who founded Filippo G&G in Geneva. The company was born with a history behind it: the family, of Turin origin, has been operating for four generations in the sector of precious stones. The business, in fact, was started by Filippo’s great-grandfather at the beginning of the 20th century. But Filippo Gay did not limit himself to buying and reselling precious stones on the wholesale market: he had a long experience going to the field to visit mines and find the best pieces.

Collana pungitopo in titanio, oro bianco, diamanti, kunzite cabochon di 73 carati. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Butcher’s broom necklace in titanium, white gold, diamonds, 73-carat kunzite cabochon. Copyright: gioiellis.com

While the family business continued on its way, between sales in Italy and the cousin who cuts gems and produces jewelry in Valenza and Bangkok, Filippo Gay when he was 20 went to live in Thailand, where he studied gemology at Asian Institute of Gemology, and where he graduated.

Orecchini foglie in alluminio e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Leaf earrings in aluminum and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

But he has not returned to Italy. Instead, he chose to stay in Bangkok, one of the capitals of the gem market, for another ten years. By attending the Thai gemstone market, Filippo confessed to having been cheated several times. Misadventures that served him to gain experience, just as it was very helpful when he was a boy to accompany his father between India and Sri Lanka to choose the stones to bring to Europe. And that’s how Filippo G&G has become one of the appreciate companies among the gem dealers. Not only that: a couple of years ago at GemGenéve Filippo G&G also presented jewelry with an innovative design, made of titanium and, of course, many shiny stones.

Orecchini in alluminio, oro bianco e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Earrings in aluminium, white gold and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello in titanio con opale e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Titanium ring with opal and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Orecchino/spilla in titanio e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Titanium and diamond earring/brooch. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Filippo Gay visita una miniera in Africa — Filippo Gay visits a mine in Africa

Anello in titanio, diamanti e kunzite — Ring in titanium, diamonds and kunzite. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Collier in titanio, diamanti e grossa kunzite al centro — Titanium necklace, diamonds and large kunzite in the center. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello in titanio con rubellite e diamanti — Titanium ring with rubellite and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Orecchini glicine in titanio e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Wisteria earrings in titanium and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Jewelry and gold: real or fake? Questions and answers

Published on October 23, 2023

Campus

True or false? Can gold be recognized with a bite? Is real jade cold? Is cubic zirconia, often confused with zircon, indistinguishable from diamond? Does silver cause allergies? Is 925 the number of perfect silver? Do the reflections of a stone have to be rainbow? These are among the many questions we often receive and their answers.

To check that your jewel of gold genuine need to bite him.

FALSE Pure gold is a very soft metal and, in fact, teeth can easily leave a mark if it is very pure, 24 carats. But biting it is neither a guarantee nor a recommendable test. Furthermore, it can damage your teeth. Not to mention that lead is even softer than gold: a jewel that uses gold-plated lead could easily be mistaken. Furthermore, 18 karat gold is usually used for jewelry, or even less: 14 and even 9 karat. It is gold alloyed with other metals: this makes the gold less malleable and also less expensive. In short, in reality, in addition to gold, we also end up biting other metals such as silver, copper, palladium, nickel.

True or false? To find out if a stone is genuine need to look at it in the light.

TRUE Note: the only truly reliable way to identify a gemstone is the opinion of a gemologist or a jeweler, or laboratory tests. That said, here’s a helpful hint to decide whether it is worthwhile to consider the stone of a ring or a necklace. Place the stone against the sunlight and look at the range of colors it produces. The authentic gemstones usually show a rainbow that will be reflected on a nearby surface. Most of the real gems will produce a full range of colors: the stone closer to the eye and tilt it, you should see a rainbow. The stones that produce nothing are often false. We repeat: it is not a final proof: for some stones, especially those very dense, deep coloring or that were not completely polished, the system may not work. But it is a little test should not be overlooked.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show — Examination of a diamond jewel

A cubic zirconia is virtually the same as a diamond, only it costs less.

FALSE What is commonly called a zircon is actually a cubic zirconia: an artificial stone that resembles a diamond. It’s brilliant, but much, much cheaper. In fact, it is just very difficult to distinguish it from a real diamond if you are not an expert. It is a cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide. It is a very hard synthetic material, optically perfect and usually colorless, although it can be made in a variety of different colors. It should not be confused with natural zircon, a stone composed of zirconium silicate, often blue in color. Cubic zirconia is sometimes mistakenly called “cubic zirconium”. Commercial production began in 1976. Its main competitor as a laboratory-created gem is synthetic moissanite.

The silver cause allergies and skin turns green.

FALSE The color is not caused by an allergy is a reaction to the metals used in jewelry and it is often fused with silver, especially when the skin sweats. In short, it indicates that silver is not pure. It is the copper and silver often result in a green halo on the skin. Sterling silver, for example, is 7.5 percent of an alloy with copper. The most common stains left by Sterling Silver Jewelry, in any case, are black and not green. Some sterling silver jewelry are coated with products that help them to maintain the patina, but the coatings may fade over time.

Bracciali in argento a maglia geometrica con charm — Geometric mesh silver bracelets with Pandora charms

The number 925 indicates that the jewelry is real silver.

TRUE In the inner part of a jewel, engraving or stamping the number 925 indicates that the material is, in fact 925, the most common alloy. Of course, the warranty covers: nothing prevents that was affixed to a false jewel, but usually not the case for silver.

In questo orecchino di Giovanni Raspini è ben visibile la punzonatura con il numero 925 — In this earring by Giovanni Raspini the hallmark with the number 925 is clearly visible

The Chinese store near your house has rings of jade at a very good price. Can I trust you? They told me that the real jade is cold.

TRUE The temperature is not sufficient proof, but it gives an indication: the jade is poorly conductive. Place it in a sensitive part, for example on the face, it is easy to feel a sensation of cold. Another easy tip is to try to carve the stone with the nail: the true jade is very tough and not show a scratch. The same test can be conducted with a very hot object: the real jade will not show signs of the contact. Finally, authentic jade usually has small imperfections, which are common in nature. A perfect stone should you be born a suspect. In any case, real jade is very expensive.

Anello Palloncino con giada — Palloncino Ring with green jade by Vhernier

Diamonds or cubic zirconia?

Published on October 16, 2023

Campus

Orecchino in ottone placcato argento e cubic zirconia

Buy a jewel with cubic zirconia, that is, with a synthetic stone that looks like a diamond? Here’s what you need to know about cubic zirconia which is actually … ♦ ︎

Diamonds or cubic zirconia? Those who cannot afford the most loved precious stones are often satisfied with their imitation: cubic zirconia, which is found on jewels that are cheap and shine just the same. But many have asked us to know more: what are the stones called cubic zirconia really? Here’s what you need to know about cubic zirconia, a widely used stone, for example by Pandora and many other jewelry brands with low prices. With a premise: these stones are often sold as zircons. But it is a different stone. Attention: cubic zirconias are also different from diamonds grown or created in the laboratory, which have a chemical structure completely the same as that of natural diamonds. Synthetic or laboratory diamonds cost less than natural diamonds, but much more than a cubic zirconia crystal.
Read also: Cubic zirconia or zircons? Here’s what to choose
Cubic zirconia is often referred to by the initials CZ. If you read CZ in the description of a jewel, then know that it is a synthetic material.

Pandora, charm oro giallo 14 carati con zirconia cubica — Pandora, 14K Yellow Gold Cubic Zirconia Charm

What is it

Cubic zirconia is obtained in the laboratory, it is not a natural stone. But it looks a lot like a diamond. On the contrary, those who are not experts will certainly confuse it as a diamond: it has the same appearance, it is cut simily. Not only that: in addition to the classic colorless appearance, it can also be colored and resemble fancy yellow or blue diamonds. Of course, if you then try to sell a cubic zirconia you will not receive much. Indeed, probably no jeweler will buy a ring with a cubic zirconia mounted.
Cubic zirconia was born in 1976 as a low-cost synthetic diamond. It is obtained by dissolving together a chemical element, zirconium, with zirconium dioxide powder and heating everything at a very high temperature. Since it is a synthetic stone, cubic zirconia is perfect: it does not have the inclusions or defects that can be found on a natural stone. Among other things, the CZ is almost as hard as a diamond: on the hardness scale of Mohs is to 8.5, while a brilliant is the most hard element of all and reaches 10.
How to distinguish a diamond from a cubic zirconia?

Bracciale in galvanica black gun con cubic zirconia — Pianegonda, bracelet in black gun galvanic with cubic zirconia

It is not easy for your eye, and even for a jeweler, who, however, carefully examining the stone with a microscope can identify whether it is synthetic or natural.
If you want to know if the ring that someone gave to you, is with diamond or a cubic zirconia you must necessarily subject the stone to some technical tests.
For example, diamonds are heat conductors, while zirconium oxide is an insulator. In theory, in sum, a diamond heats up before a zirconia. In practice, it takes special tools to ascertain it. Another aspect: hardness. To determine if it reaches 10 or stops at 8.5 without ruining the stone, also in this case it need laboratory instruments. A spectrometer also checks the density of the stone: cubic zirconia is 1.7 times denser than a diamond. Another aspect: the index of refraction: the diamond crossed by a light ray has an index of 2.42 with respect to zirconia, which stops at 2.15-2.18. Then there are other aspects, such as dispersion and color. Cubic zirconia, paradoxically, is almost always more perfect than a diamond. The natural ones on the market, with the exception of exceptions, have a classification lower than the maximum level.
Read also: Diamonds: 4 rules to avoid scams
The price
Cubic zirconia are synthetic stones with a much lower price than a diamond. But, as for natural stones, their cost depends on weight, that is carats. Moreover, not all cubic zirconia are equal: there are some that are better and, therefore, cost more. Finally, do not confuse cubic zirconia, or zircons, with diamonds created in the laboratory, which are much more expensive and almost indistinguishable from natural stones. The real zircons, however, the ones you see in the image below.

Autentici zirconi naturali. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Authentic natural zircons. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Orecchini con zirconia cubica o cubic zirconia, spesso proposti semplicemente (e spesso ingannevolmente) come zirconi — Earrings with cubic zirconia or cubic zirconia, often proposed simply (and often deceptively) as zircons

Rebecca, Elizabeth linea Elegance anello in bronzo placcato giallo e zirconia cubica — Rebecca, Elizabeth Elegance line ring in yellow plated bronze and cubic zirconia

Yvone Christa, anello in argento placcato in oro 22 carati con una zirconia cubica — Yvone Christa, 22K gold plated silver ring with a pink cubic zirconia

Anelli della collezione Radiant Bloom, in lega metallica rosa e zirconia cubica — Pandora, rings from the Radiant Bloom collection, in pink metal alloy and cubic zirconia

Pandora, anelli in argento con zirconia cubica verde — Pandora, silver rings with green cubic zirconia

Everything about labradorite

Published on May 30, 2023

Orecchini Galaxy con labradorite by Fernando Jorge

Can you recognize labradorite? Yet it is a stone widely used for bijoux and jewelry. Here’s what you need to know about labradorite ♦

When asked if you like Labradorite it is not a reference to the yellow or black dogs who are famous for their water rescue skills. Labrador, in this case, is the place (in Canada) where at the end of the eighteenth century this stone was discovered which is part of the very common group of feldspar, successfully used in jewelry. As with all stones, there is someone who attributes miraculous properties to labradorite. Everyone is free to believe it …

Anello con diamanti taglio brillante, labradorite grigia, granati, tsavoriti, topazi blu e zaffiri arancioni

Features. Labradorite has the particularity of possessing a play of colors with a metallic reflection, often changing between blue and green. In some rare cases, it can show the full spectrum of colors. There are also colorless, white, gray, gray-black, gray-whitish, yellow, brown, pale green varieties. It is not a very hard stone and the simplest cut in which to bring out the colors is the cabochon, although it is not uncommon to find some other type of cut. As we have mentioned, labradorite can exhibit an iridescent (or schiller) optical effect, which is also known as labradorescence. The term labradorescence was coined by the mineralogist Ove Balthasar Bøggild. From a scientific point of view, labradorizing is the reflection of light from submicroscopic planes oriented in one direction (rarely in two directions). They are planes that never have such a position that they can be expressed by simple indices, and are not directly visible under the microscope.

Where is it. In addition to Labrador, labradorite is also found in Madagascar, Mexico, Russia and the USA. The Finnish variety is called spektrolith.

How it is used in jewelry. Labradorite is mainly used for simple cut pendants and pendants, or cut into spheres for necklaces. But there is no shortage of rings that use labradorite, especially in its iridescent version.

How to clean labradorite. Since labradorite is a fairly fragile stone, care must be taken to clean it, avoiding too rough treatments. Water, a drop of detergent and a toothbrush with soft silks are fine. Instead, avoid rubbing the stone with too rough materials. Also pay attention to when you put it back in the drawer: do not place the jewel in contact with other objects that could scratch the stone.

Orecchini con labradorite by Pippa Small

Bracciale della collezione Etoile Mysterieuse, in argento, labradorite — Elie Top, bracciale della collezione Etoile Mysterieuse, in argento, labradorite

Orecchini con aquamarina, labradorite, rainbow pietra luna, diamanti non lucidati, oro giallo riciclato — Nak Armstrong, orecchini con aquamarina, labradorite, rainbow pietra luna, diamanti non lucidati, oro giallo riciclato

Anello con topazio blu e labradorite — Jules Kim, anello con topazio blu e labradorite

Federica Rettore, bracciale con labradorite

Thais Bernardes, the Brazil studied Italy

Published on May 19, 2023

Showroom

Thais Bernardes, the jewels of Brazil that have a little bit of Italy ♦ ︎

There are many Brazilian citizens of Italian origin. But there are also designers who simply take an example from Italians, those who work in jewelry. This is the case of Thais Bernardes, who says: “I learned from the Italians to value details and invest in quality. My jewels follow a contemporary style for women who want, at the same time, to dictate fashion with elegance and lightness “.

The founder of the brand that has her name, among other things, was born and grew up in Minas Gerais, the place that is the largest producer of natural gemstones among the Brazilian states.

And growing in contact with the stones for jewelry gave her a decisive imprinting. Although she started her career as a model. Then, however, she studied gemology and jewelry design, with a specialization in Fashion Brand Management in Milan. Finally, in 2015 she founded the brand Thais Bernardes, now also at VicenzaOro September. Her jewels are all made of silver, gold and precious and semi-precious stones, “where the Italian workforce combined with the Brazilian tradition creates inimitable objects”.

Choker con pappagallo, argento e cubic zirconia — Choker with parrot, silver and cubic zirconia

Anello in argento, smalto e zirconia cubica — Ring in silver, enamel and cubic zirconia

Anello in argento, rodiato o placcato oro e zirconia cubica — Ring in silver, rhodium plated or gold plated and cubic zirconia

Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con smalto verde e zaffiro — 18K yellow gold ring with green enamel and sapphire

Orecchini in oro rosa 9 carati con smalto verde e zaffiro giallo — Earrings in 9 carat rose gold with green enamel and yellow sapphire

Anello in oro rosa 9 carati con smalto nero e peridoto — Ring in 9 carat rose gold with black enamel and peridot

Stone’s fantasies by Stephen Dweck

Published on January 15, 2023

Showroom

Anello con opale di fuoco sfaccettato, citrino, oro 18 carati

Stones from around the world, also little known, in creative mix of Stephen Dweck ♦

He participated in the event organized in New York by the CFDA, the association which brings together 508 American designers, including 82 jewelers. He was born in Brooklyn, and so he had felt at home. Stephen Dweck is the kind of designer jewelry that has an artistic vocation: painter and sculptor, Stephen decided to use his creative vision to make jewelry.

Anello con quarzo rutilato, madreperla, citrino, rodonite, tormalina e quarzo cognac

He has already had a career that began in the eighties, but has not ceased to renew itself. It makes jewelry with a fresh style and, at the same time, literary. The Stephen Dweck’s love for nature in all its forms has led him also to collect many different types of minerals, stones that are barely known and which give a unique appearance to its collections. Not surprisingly that is was been defined as a novelist of the stones, which he collects around the world, during his travels. So, he says, the first question that they make is: Where did you get this stone? But it really is not so important “where” what counts is the result.

Anello in argento con ametista, quarzo, abalone, fosfosiderite

Anello in oro con quarzo rutilato, ematite e gemme colorate

Orecchini intaggliati a mano con opale rosa, agata nera, quarzo rutilato, tormalina rosa, diamanti, oro 18 carati

Anello con opale, tormalina, zaffiri e diamanti su oro 8 carati — Anello con opale, tormalina, zaffiri e diamanti su oro 18 carati

Anello con rubellite di 3,4 carati, diamanti, oro 18 carati

How hard are jewelry stones?

Published on December 3, 2022

Campus

How resistant are the stones of your jewels? Can they be damaged easily?

The hardness of gems is measured by the Mohs scale. The name derives from the German scientist Friedrich Mohs, who conceived it in 1812. The Mohs scale assigns a grade from one to ten to the degree of hardness of the stones. In this way, you can know which ones are more delicate, for example, which scratch or break more often. It is an aspect that is best known to avoid nasty surprises: knowing how hard the stones of your jewels are is also useful for cleaning. For example, an opal is not as strong as a ruby and should be treated with greater delicacy.

In short, generally when someone buys a piece of jewelry they don’t ask you if it will be tough enough to withstand occasional bumps. Yet it is a question that is best to ask yourself, especially if the stone is mounted on a ring, a jewel that is more easily subject to contact with other materials. But the same goes for earrings or necklace if these jewels have stones.

Diamante taglio cuscino di Jack Reiss. Il diamante è l'elemento più duro in natura — Diamante taglio cuscino di Jack Reiss. Il diamante è l’elemento più duro in natura

Although we tend to believe that a stone is incredibly more solid than any common object of everyday life, this is not the case. The gems of your jewelry could be fragile stones, at risk of being scratched or even shattered in some unfortunate circumstance. Even the diamond is absolutely not safe from all danger. Fortunately, Mohs took the trouble, almost two centuries ago, to measure the hardness of different minerals, including precious stones. It is therefore possible to know the degree of hardness of the stones with some certainty.

Pietra	Durezza
Diamante	10
Rubino	9
Zaffiro	9
Alessandrite	8.5
Crisoberillo	8.5
Topazio	8
Spinello	8
Smeraldo	7,5-8
Andalusite	7.5
Hambergite	7.5
Acquamarina	7,5-8
Goshenite	7,5-8
Berillo	7,5-8
Morganite	7,5-8
Granato demantoide	7-7,5
Ametista	7
Tormalina	7-7,5
Quarzo	7
Kunzite	7
Citrino	7
Danburite	7-7,5
Iolite	7-7,5
Rubellite	7-7,5
Tanzanite	6,5-7
Peridoto	6,5-7
Granato	6,5 - 7,5
Diaspro	6,5-7
Axinite	6,5-7
Crisoprasio	6,5-7
Corallo fossile	6,5-7
Agata	6,5-7
Spessartite	6,5 - 7,5
Occhio di tigre	6,5-7
Zircone	6,5 - 7,5
Diasporo	6,5-7
Eliotropio	6,5-7
Tsavorite	6,5 - 7,5
Onice	6,5-7
Corniola	6,5-7
Calcedonio	6,5-7
Rhodolite	6,5 - 7,5
Sillimanite	6,5 - 7,5
Labradorite	6 - 6.5
Pietra Luna	6 - 6.5
Giadeite, giada nefrite	6 - 6.5
Amazzonite	6 - 6.5
Opale	5.5 - 6.5
Ematite	5.5 - 6.5
Lapislazzuli	05-giu
Turchese	05-giu
Ossidiana	5-5,5
Malachite	3,5-4
Corallo	03-apr
Perla	2,5-4,5
Chrysocolla	Di 2 - 4
Ambra	2-2,5

The Mohs scale was initially based on ten readily available minerals. This ranking was subsequently completed and is now an important indicator for those who buy a stone. But be careful: it is a special scale. For example, a corundum (such as ruby) is twice as hard as a topaz, but a diamond is nearly four times harder than a corundum. What you see on this page is a table that summarizes the hardness of the main stones. At the head is the diamond. Immediately after there are rubies and sapphires. Then … Federico Graglia

Set di spinelli di diverse sfumature di Paul Wild — Set con spinelli di diverse sfumature di Paul Wild

Magenta jewels, the color of 2023

Published on December 3, 2022

news

Ciondolo in oro con diamanti, spinello rosa e viola, tormalina magenta

Like every December, Pantone, the American company specializing in the color business, announces (its) shade of the year. For 2023 Pantone has announced its choice, called Viva Magenta! The description is: “A new animated red hue that revels in pure unapologetic joy, encouraging experimentation and self-expression without restraint.” If you want to know how Pantone chooses the color of the year, we explained it here. Even if the choice of color has no real explanation, in fact the shade of the year is often a reason for choice for the world of fashion and even jewelry.

Orecchino in oro 14 carati e tormalina intagliata — Orecchino in oro 14 carati e tormalina magenta intagliata

For example, for magenta, jewels in this shade can be different: from rubellites with a dark pink note, to tourmalines, or spinel, while for ruby it is more difficult to identify a red shade with a blue note background. However, there are magenta colored agates, as well as quartz, beryl and a variety of the stone called tiger’s eye, which is a variety of quartz.

Bracciale con perline di agata rossa — Bracciale con perline di agata di Merci Maman

Anello Holika in oro bianco, con rubellite al centro, crisoberillo, tormalina — Cartier, anello Holika in oro bianco, con rubellite al centro, crisoberillo, tormalina

Anello in oro 24 carati con quarzo e zaffiro

Anello in oro 14 carati con tormalina rosa e diamanti — Anello in oro 14 carati con tormalina e diamanti

Only natural gems for Xiao Wang

Published on November 13, 2022

Showroom

Anello in oro, zaffiri di diverso colore e diamanti

What could the daughter of a recycled metals trader with a mining grandfather do in life? The fate of Xiao Wang, jewelry designer and founder of her small Maison in New York, was written in her destiny. To these roots we must also add to his confessed passion for manga and pop art. But, in truth, the designer’s story does not end here, because before focusing on jewels, which are also distributed through large online platforms, Xiao Wang was also an actress and model: she also studied fashion design at Fit in New York.

Anello Neptune in oro 18 carati, zaffiro viola e diamanti

Xiao Wang’s jewels are made of recycled gold, but another (rather rare) aspect is the rule of using natural colored gemstones, that is, not treated with chemical products, oils or heated to make the color more intense or correct defects. Tourmalines, fancy colored diamonds, emeralds, are therefore offered in the same conditions as they were in the earth, apart form.

Orecchini Galaxy in oro, diamanti, zaffiri

Anello in oro con zaffiro verde-blu non trattato

natural color rose cut rustic diamonds and two round natural champagne diamonds — Orecchini in oro con diamanti colorati naturali

Collana Galaxy in oro 18 carati e diamanti

Anello Galaxy in oro, tormaline, diamanti

The unique rings of Bleecker & Prince

Published on October 1, 2022

Showroom

Anello di ametista verde-grigia intagliata con diamanti

On May 15 2020 Leehe Segal became a mother. This news may not be related to the work of Leehe Segal, that is the creation of jewelry with the Bleecker & Prince brand, but in the end, motherhood is a creative work too. About the name of the small Maison: it refers to two streets in New York, Bleecker Street and Prince Street, which are parallel.

Orecchino in oro e diamanti con taglio trillion

After graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, in 2013 the designer launched her inspired brand from these two avenues. Although, in truth, the designer divides her time between the Big Apple and Tel Aviv. The style of her jewels is quite innovative: large rings or earrings, handmade: the Bleecker & Prince jewels are all made of gold and natural precious stones, which can vary in size and color. One of his specialties are rings or earrings made entirely from a single carved stone, such as onyx, citrine, turquoise, marble or amethyst. They may not be very light to wear, but they are certainly unique.

Collana con pendente in oro 14 carati e smalto

Anello di onice intagliato con inserti in oro rosa, rubini e diamanti

Orecchini a cerchio in turchese intagliato, con diamanti e oro 14 carati

Quick guide to the cuts of the stones

Published on September 14, 2022

Campus

Quick guide to cuts of stones, diamonds included. Learn to which shape the baguette, marquise, and brilliant cuts match … ♦

Brilliant, marquise, briolette … Diamonds, emeralds or rubies (and all other stones) can be cut in many different ways. But how often do you understand the description of a jewel and do not know exactly the meaning of the different forms that a gem takes on rings or necklaces? Here is a small guide among the different cuts of precious stones.

Baguette. It is a type that became popular during the Art Deco period: in essence, it is a variant of the emerald cut. The baguette, that is the wand, recalls the typical French bread: it is long and rectangular, with octagonal corners and 14 facets. It can create truly amazing effects and adds a strong character to the jewel. But it is also a cut that is not easy to use in jewelry. Baguette cutting is often used together with stones with other shapes. For example, a baguette cut diamond can accompany other gems with different volumes.

Galleria Leysen, orecchini in oro bianco, smeraldi colombiani e diamanti baguette

Brilliant / Round. The round cut is the most common form for diamonds, also because it enhances the diffraction capacity of the stone, increasing its brightness. The brilliant cut, or round, represents up to 75 percent of the diamonds sold. This cut is quite recent: it was codified only at the beginning of the last century and has 58 facets. The crown is the area that is at the top, the belt is the circumference, the widest. This cut is not easy to make, but it is certainly the one that offers the greatest enhancement of a diamond compared to its weight.

Orecchini in oro bianco, con diamante taglio brillante da 15 carati e due perle naturali di 13 millimetri

Anello della collezione Melody of Diamonds di de Grisogono. Un brillante, due diamanti a pera, 268 diamanti su oro bianco

Briolette. The briolette cut is among the best known and is often used to make pendants for necklaces or earrings. This cut essentially has the shape of a drop, but multifaceted. In reality there are four variations of the teardrop shape: the most famous has the facets composed of rhombuses. But there are also the most accentuated drop-shaped, olive-shaped, ball-shaped pendants that take the shape indicated by the name.

Oval. It is a very simple and regular form. For this reason it is commonly believed to be one of the oldest cuts to present a diamond. However, this is not the case: this cut for gems has only been experimented since 1960. An oval-shaped diamond has a uniform and symmetrical design and has 56 facets. Like the marquise cut it is, in essence, a variant of the brilliant cut. The advantage is that the elongated shape makes the stone appear larger than the perfectly circular cut.

Lenti Villasco, anello in oro bianco e diamante ovale

Anello con smeraldo colombiano taglio ovale e diamanti

Heart. The heart cut is, in essence, a pear shape with an inward fold on the upper side. As it is easy to imagine, it is used to emphasize the romantic aspect, but it is not very easy to make: it usually requires rather large stones and a lot of workmanship. But there are also Maison, like the Italian Recarlo, often use heart-shaped diamonds, even small ones, and have made them a distinctive aspect. For larger stones, however, the heart shape is usually more expensive in proportion to the carats.

Orecchini con zaffiri tagliati a cuore e diamanti

Asscher. It assumes its name from Asscher, an Amsterdam company specialized in the diamond trade founded in 1854 by the family of the same name (it is responsible for cutting some of the most famous diamonds in the world, including two of the three largest diamonds ever found). In 1902 Joseph Asscher designed and patented his original Asscher cut of the same name. The idea was to combine the emerald cut with the round cut, in a shape characterized by extreme symmetry and dramatically-cut corners. Like the emerald cut, Asscher needs stones without inclusions and very clear.

Anello con grande diamante taglio Asscher firmato David Morris

Anello con diamante asscher giallo contornato da diamanti biancbi taglio a pera

Cushion. It is easy to come across the cushion-cut on antique jewelry: it is, in fact, the oldest form, an update of the so-called Old Mine cut of the 18th century. As the name indicates, it is a cushion-shaped cut with 58 facets. The corners are rounded and the facets typically larger than the brilliant cut. But it requires very high-quality stones.

Diamante fancy intense blue con taglio a cuscino

Anello con diamante fancy intense yellow e diamanti incolori

Marquise. Few people know why this form is called like this: according to the legend this cut has instead a spicy story. It would have been invented at the court of the king of France: Louis XIV commissioned it, it seems, to combine the stone with Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, marquise of Pompadour, her lover. The cut is an elongated shape that reaches a point at both ends, with slightly rounded sides. Like the oval cut, the marquise cut enhances the visual impact of the stone, which appears larger than round cuts of the same carat weight.

Anello con diamante taglio marquise di 4,61 carati, colore D, chiarezza VVS

Chanel, anello con diamante taglio marquise e zaffiri

Pear. Make a mix of the oval cut with the marquise cut and here the result is the pear shape. As the name indicates, the shape is similar to that of the fruit and is widely used in jewelry, also because it has the advantage of enhancing the light in diamonds and adding a hint of asymmetry to the design. A pear cut diamond has 58 facets: asymmetry is one of the most appreciated aspects by many jewelers, who use the pear shape for rings as an alternative to the classic round cut. But this form is also widely used for pendants.

Anello con due diamanti, fancy vivid blue e bianco taglio pera, circa 2 carati l'uno, con diamanti baguette ai lati, montati su platino — Anello con due diamanti, fancy vivid blue e bianco taglio pera, circa 2 carati l’uno, con diamanti baguette ai lati, montati su platino

Princess. It is one of the most recent news. In fact, this type of cut has only been introduced in jewelry since 1980 and is very popular especially in North America. The princess cut is square or rectangular, which in some cases manages to be brighter than the typical round cut. But of course it also depends on the starting shape of the stone. Another advantage of the “princess” cut is that it requires less waste of raw stone than other cuts.

Anello in platino con diamanti bianchi e rosa — Anello in platino con diamante taglio princess e diamanti bianchi e rosa

ANCO02 — Anello con un ciuffo di alghe in tsavoriti e diamanti black, trattiene un’acquamarina taglio princess di 52.45 carati

Radiant. It combines the virtues of brilliant cut with those of emerald cut. The radiant form was developed in 1977 and has between 62 and 70 facets. It is often confused with the princess cut, but unlike the latter, the radiant shape has cut corners, which slightly sweetens the square shape. With the same weight, compared to a round cut diamond, the radiant surface is 4% smaller. On the other hand, a radiant cut diamond appears larger.

Radiant diamond (3.20 ct) and diamond (4.80 ct) ring set in white and yellow gold — Picchiotti, radiant diamond (3.20 ct) and diamond (4.80 ct) ring set in white and yellow gold

Radiant Fancy Pink DB Classic Pavé Ring — Anello con diamante rosa taglio radiant e pavé di brillanti

Emerald. The shape is rectangular, with cut corners. It is one of the oldest and one of the most demanding cuts: with this form the defects of a stone can be seen immediately. On some occasions it is also called step-cut, because its concentric, wide and flat surfaces remind the steps of the stairs. Faulty inclusions and colors are enhanced, but at the same time the best stones are enhanced. It typically has 50 to 58 facets.

Galleria Leysen, anello in platino e diamante taglio smeraldo da 8,32 carati

Charles green, anello con acquamarina taglio smeraldo, diamanti, su platino — Charles Green, anello con acquamarina taglio smeraldo, diamanti, su platino

Trilliant. This cut was also developed by Asscher. It was launched in New York in 1960. It is considered excellent for the ability to enhance light within the stone. Basically it is a triangular shape, with curved and straight parts, sharp and rounded corners. This cut has different variations: the sides, for example, can be curved or straight and the shape of the surface is also subject to different interpretations.

Tanzanite a taglio triangolare con oro bianco e diamanti

The three oldest diamond cuts

Published on August 26, 2022

Campus

Il diamante Romanov a taglio rotondo, tradizionale, con 57 sfaccettature

Quick guide to the three cuts of the most used stones in the past and mounted on old jewels ♦ ︎

Do you have a jewel inherited from your grandmother at home? Or maybe even older? Then, probably, you might wonder what kind of cut used for these gemstones. Because once the stones were cut differently. Here is a quick guide to recognize old stone cuts, such as the cut rose-cut, old-mine cut, or Asscher.

Rose cut. It is a round cut used for diamonds. Compared to diamonds with the modern brilliant cut introduced at the beginning of 1900, with 58 facets, the rose cut has a flat base and 24 triangular facets that rise up to a point (a bit like a pyramid). The base of the stone, however, is flat. The rose cut was introduced in 1600 by the Dutch. The rose cut, which has less facets than the brilliant cut, can give the diamond a vitreous appearance, obviously less sparkling. To try to make it shine more, in some cases the diamond was mounted with a thin metal plate on the bottom, to try to reflect more light, before being set on the jewel. There are jewelers, however, that still today use this type of cut, which gives a vintage look to the jewel.

Anello con diamanti per 15 carati — Sutra, anello con diamanti per 15 carati, rose cut

Vak, Desert Rain Ring, rose cut diamonds, su oro rosa spazzolato

Rose cut diamonds can have single and double cuts facets. The single cuts have only one layer of facets. The two double facets. In more rare cases they are also found with three rows of facets (also referred to as Dutch). The ancient stones with these cuts almost never have a perfectly round circumference: the working of the stones, in fact, was done by hand, by hand, and not by machine as it happens now.
The rose cut was particularly used in jewels between the 1700s and the late 1800s. Although it is associated with the diamond, the rose cut was also used for semi-precious stones, such as garnets, to hide inclusions and a poor coloring.

Orecchini Floral con diamanti taglio rosa e brillante

Old-mine cut. It is one of the first types of diamond cuts, which enhances the reflection of light. The mine cut has 56 facets, with a small flat base and a small, equally flat surface. Seen from the side, the minera-cut stone is hexagonal in shape. Sometimes it is referred to as a triple cut. Although the number of facets is similar to that of the modern brilliant cut, the shape of the old-cut diamond mine is completely different. The circumference, in fact, is not round, but is more like a square with rounded corners: it resembles the cushion cut, cushion, with which it is sometimes confused. The name of this cut derives from the arrival, in the mid-nineteenth century, of the first diamonds of the new South African mines. To distinguish these diamonds from those of Indian and Brazilian mines, the name of the old mine was introduced. There is also a slight difference between cutting old American and European mines, with a more pointed rear part.

Anello del periodo Edoardiano con diamante da 2,5 carati taglio old-mine

Asscher cut. The name derives from the inventor, in 1902, of this type of cut: from Joseph Asscher. If you have a diamond of the early twentieth century with this cut, know that it is very rare and, therefore, probably worth a lot ‘of money. It is a perfectly symmetrical diamond with 74 facets. The perimeter is squared (octagonal) and resembles the emerald cut, which instead has only 58 facets. Over time it has evolved slightly: the first Asscher cuts had a slightly smaller surface (the board).

Il diamante da 102 carati taglio brillante

Giulia Sorvillo, art and nature

Published on August 20, 2022

Jewelry, more crafts, more aesthetic, more art of composition: at the center of Italy, in one of the most beautiful medieval towns, Anagni, you can discover the ability of Giulia Sorvillo di Serino (www.giuliasorvillodiserino.com). The designer, after a degree, two masters and a course at Constance Spy Flower School in London in Flower Arrangement, has found its way into the creative world of jewelry. “The goal is to create luxury products made by hand from natural elements, which are inspired by art and … affordable,” she says. She added that the foundation of every single creation “is the careful selection of materials in an environmentally friendly and eco-sustainability. The luxury for me must be luxocratico: a micro affordable luxury, ethical and essential experiences the pure materiality. ”

Collana di due fili con perle rosacee, diaspro, granato e quarzo fragola e rosa

The models that inspire Giulia are nature and art. For the latter, the environment of Anagni (where there are a remarkables medieval frescoes) is a good crib. But she has widened the horizon, ranging from Vermeer to James Bond. For the nature, it depends. For example, the designer prefers freshwater pearls. And then her compositions she chooses white, gray, or pink, from natural elements.

Each piece is made entirely by hand with the use of natural and quality stones. Fantasy also in the choice of the jewels to be made: earrings, necklaces and bracelets, but also clutches, hair clips, cufflinks for shirts. They can also be found on sale in Rome in the bookshops of the Macro Museum and the Ara Pacis Museum as part of the retrospective dedicated to Henri Cartier-Bresson.

Collana di petali di prehnite con perle di fiume rosa e labradorite

Collana di petali di pietra lavica con perle di fiume e pietra di luna

Orecchini con corallo, agata, ametista, acquamarina e perle

Gems that look the same

Published on August 14, 2022

Campus

Beware of false friends in jewelry. Or, better, don’t buy stones that have different values, but a similar appearance. Similar, but not the same. Yet, not only authoritative gemologists have fallen into the misunderstanding, but also customers willing to pay figures with many zeros and even crowned heads. Do you want an example? Numerous precious stones belonging to the treasury of Tsar Peter I of Russia, long believed to be rubies, were later classified as rubellite. The same gem, the ruby, also fooled the London royals: the so-called Black Prince Ruby of about 170 carats mounted on the British imperial crown is actually not a ruby, but a spinel, placed next to the Cullinan II diamond, this authentic . In short, stones with the same color and quite similar. But one is worth more than the other.

Al centro della corona il Rubino del Principe Nero, che in realtà è uno spinello

Ruby and spinel. Both are red stones, although the spinel can also take on other shades, for example these stones can also be black. Many spinels used in jewelry have a color and clarity very similar to that of ruby and sapphire (two stones that are varieties of corundum). Not only that: spinel is often found in deposits adjacent to those of these two most precious stones. In addition to the deep red spinel, there is also a raspberry-colored variety that is mined in Tanzania.

Ruby and rubellite. Rubellite is another red stone, which can have an intense hue similar to that of certain rubies. However, it is a variety of tourmaline, a less rare gem than rubies. Rubellite was already known in ancient Roman times and the gem was often confused with garnets and spinels. The great diffusion in the West took place at the beginning of the seventeenth century after the Dutch importation of the rubellite from Sri Lanka. In 1998 a large tourmaline mine was discovered in Nigeria and rubellite invaded jewelers.

Anello con rubino birmano da 8,80 carati e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite

Spinel and taaffeite. Between these two stones it is taaffeite that is rarer and more expensive. Taaffeite is named after its discoverer, the Irish Richard Taaffe, who in 1945 identified it as confused with spinel. Sent to London for analysis, it was identified as a new precious stone, unfortunately very difficult to find. Unlike spinel, taaffeite exhibits the property of double refraction which allows the distinction between these two minerals. It can have different colors, including red, violet and red, which make it very similar to certain varieties of spinel.

Diamonds and zircons. Attention, let’s not talk about cubic zirconia, which are artificial stones with a very low price and used for pendants and bijoux that cost a few tens of euros or dollars. Real zircons are natural stones. They can have different colors, often found in the blue hue, but there are also colorless zircons like diamonds. Furthermore, zircon has a very high refractive index, lower only than that of diamond, and for this reason it has often been mistaken for the gem it resembles. From a chemical point of view, however, diamonds and zircons are different: the former are made of pure carbon, the latter are nesosilicates.

Emerald and demantoid garnet. They are both green stones. The demantoid garnet, just like the emerald, takes on the green hue due to the percentage of chromium and iron, which lead to bright green shades or more tending to green-yellow, even green tending to blue. Another variety of garnet, tsavorite, also has a green hue that can be mistaken for emerald. In fact, many jewelers combine the two stones on the same piece of jewelry to lower the cost.

Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti by Tenzo

Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino

Bracciale Serpente in titanio, tsavorite, onice, lacca

Topaz, quartz, aquamarine. Sometimes white topaz or topaz with faint yellow hues is mistaken for smoky or citrine quartz. Obviously a simple quartz costs less than topaz. In the blue hue, on the other hand, a pale-colored topaz can be mistaken for an aquamarine. The value of the two stones, however, is different.

Pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri — Vanessa Martinelli, pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri

Collezione Petra, collana in bronzo con topazio giallo by Gaia Caramazza

Anello in oro bianco con grande acquamarina

The stones and rock crystals of Min & ral

Published on July 11, 2022

Rings/Showroom/COLLANE

Collana in oro riciclato 18 carati e labradorite

The word game is fun: Min&ral. It is the name of a Maison born in the South of France, in Marseille, and now with six stores in the rest of the country, but also in Spain, Poland0 Hong Kong and Taiwan. The jewels are inspired by the memories of childhood, in Provence, of the founders Julie and Anthony. All jewels are made of 18 carat gold with the RJC Coc label, that is recycled gold, traceable and whose production respects responsible and ethical practices. Precious and semiprecious stones are 100% natural.

Although the name Min&ral is a recent calembour, the tradition of the Clarency family dates back to 1892, when a goldsmith’s shop was opened. Activity then passed to his daughter and son-in-law, Aimé Mandine. The Maison Mandine is still rooted in Provence. But since 2015 Anthony Berard director (sixth generation), great-grandson of Aimé Mandine and his wife Julie have created this brand that combines precious metal and natural stones. Often the stones are presented in druzy form, that is, with a crystalline form. It is no coincidence that the brand is called Min&ral.

Thomas Frieden, from Switzerland with love (for gems)

Published on July 11, 2022

COLLANE/Showroom/Rings

Anello in oro bianco, zaffiro blu, diamanti

Since 1898 Frieden, in Thun, in the green canton of Emmental, Switzerland, has specialized in colored precious stones, diamonds and unique handmade jewels. Today Thomas Frieden, a graduate of Gia, and Expert SGG, and René Lauper, also a gemologist with the same studies, coordinate the company. The Maison was founded by Thomas Frieden’s grandfather, Emil, initially to produce silver jewelry suitable for popular costumes.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the magpie, a bird that loves shiny objects, was chosen as Frieden’s trademark and is still part of the company logo today and guarantees the quality of the jewels. Around 1930, the sons of Emil, Eugene and William, created the first designs of 18-karat gold jewelry. In 1954, Frieden was among the founding members of the Basel Jewelery Show’s pavilion and gradually, the next generation of Frieden Heinz and Thomas built a production and wholesale company, supplier of hundreds of retail jewelers. Among other things, the company was one of the founders of what was Baselworld.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiro Padparadscha

But the company also has its own jewelry brand, Thomas Frieden, which offers high-end collections, with precious stones and a modern design. The Feuille Divine collection, for example, is inspired by vaguely art deco floral motifs, but also designs that are also found in the jewels of traditional Swiss costumes. Or the Rainbow collection, which uses natural color sapphires (particularly rare) from the Pink Valley mine in Madagascar and includes earrings, bracelets, rings and necklaces decorated with the shades of the rainbow.

Anello in oro bianco, pavé di diamanti, smeraldo

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, morganite

Orecchini in oro bianco, zaffiri di diversi colori, diamanti

Orecchini in oro bianco, ametista, diamanti

Perhaps you are in possession of one of these five rare gems

Published on March 23, 2022

Campus

Maybe you have a ring with a rare stone on your finger: grandidierite, hessonite, jeremejevite, dumortierite and taafeite. They are gems that are not easily found. Often these stones are used in jewelry, but they are not all the same and, above all, have a different value. Let’s see, therefore, the characteristics of these five stones: grandidierite, hessonite, jeremejevite, dumortierite and taafeite.

But with a premise: if you searched for one of these stones on Google, you will certainly have found dozens of sites that consider these minerals as if they had magical properties. Don’t believe a word in what they write. They are fake news, lies. The magical properties of minerals are only found in Harry Potter books or the like, do not think that a stone can cure or have even the slightest influence on your health or your psyche. Luckily. On the other hand, they are beautiful stones: isn’t that enough?

More generally, these five stones are part of the inanimate world: there are over 4,000 minerals on earth, many of which are very unlikely to see up close. And they often cost a lot, although not as much as the red diamond, which holds the price per carat record.

Grandidierite. It is a fairly rare green-blue, yellow-blue or blue-green color gem. Grandidierite was first discovered in Sri Lanka and is named after the French explorer and naturalist Alfred Grandidier (1836-1921). It was Grandidier who in 1902, in Madagascar, where most of these stones are mined today, was the first to publish the description. However, there are few grandidierite stones that can be cut and used for jewelry. According to Wikipedia, there are only two dozen stones of this type in the world that have been cut as precious gems. And, it seems, they are very expensive: more than $ 30,000 a carat. Grandidierite is also a fairly hard stone: 7.5 on the Mohs scale, like garnet.

Hessonite. It is a variety of garnet, also called cinnamon stone for its reddish yellow color. It is also found in Euroopa, in the Western Alps. Hessonite is a common variety of the grossular, a species of calcium aluminum that is part of the group of garnets. The name derives from ancient Greek: hesson means lower. But it does not refer to beauty, as to the fact that it is a type of garnet less hard than the others. Hessonite has, in fact, a hardness similar to that of quartz (about 7 on the mohs scale). This gemstone is found in Sri Lanka and India, Brazil and California.

Dumortierite. It is a mineral that takes its name from the French paleontologist Eugene Dumortier (1803-1873). The color ranges from blue to colorless, up to pale green, sometimes violet. It is considered to be a blue quartz, which ranges from around 7 to 8 on the Mohs scale. This stone can be completely opaque, or transparent, as if it were an ice blue crystal.

Jeremejevite bianco naturale non trattato

Jeremejevite. It is a mineral found for the first time in the Adun-Chilon mountains, in Siberia, in 1883. It has a hardness similar to quartz, from 6.5 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, and is therefore usable for the creation of jewelry. The hue can range from blue to almost completely colorless. Jeremejevite is quite expensive: it is valued at around $ 2,000 per carat.

Taafeite montata su un anello con diamanti

Taaffeite. It is one of the most expensive minerals used in jewelry: it is valued at 35,000 per carat. It is a very rare mineral and often mistaken for spinel. It was recently discovered in 1945. Dublin (Ireland), where it had already been cut and polished. But it was (incorrectly) labeled as spinel: only after a thorough gemological examination was it considered a different mineral. The main difference between spinel and taafeite, in fact, is the double refraction that this stone has. The gem is found in alluvial deposits within Sri Lanka and Tanzania.

Orecchini pendenti con opale di fuoco, granato hessonite, smalto — Alice Cicolini, orecchini pendenti con opale di fuoco, granato hessonite, smalto

A stone for each month: here are the combinations

Published on December 28, 2021

Campus

Pietre di colore: zaffiro, rubino, rubellite e zaffiro giallo

Every culture has combined a month of the year with a precious or semi-precious stone. For some it is a superstition, for others only a game, for the Association of US jewelers it is a matter of principle. In any case, here is a brief guide to the stones of the month, or birthstones. For January it is the garnet and then … ♦

Each month is associated with a lucky stone. The tradition is ancient: if the combination is good, only those who wear it can to say. According to some historians, the idea of combining stones to the months of the year has its origins in antiquity. It was believed, in fact, that there was a link between the twelve stones set in the breastplate of Aaron. The jewel worn by Jewish priests, indicated the tribes of Israel and, at the same time, the signs of the zodiac. Different interpretations of some passages of the Bible have reinforced the idea. At the end of theological disputes, myths and legends, the practice of wearing a different stone for each month of the year has more strengthened. According one interpretation, has become a code during the eighteenth century, in Poland, while for others dates the code back, to 1560, in Germany. In any case, there are some differences between the stones of the month of the past and those of today and, in addition, there are also variations between one country and another. In India, for example, the stones related to the months of the year are completely different. Who will be right?

Spilla a forma di lucertola con pietre preziose

With a typical efficiency American, in 1912, in an effort to standardize the birthstone, ie stones tied to the day of birth, the National Association of jewelers in the US has officially adopted a list of stones. In 1952 the Jewelry Industry Council of America has updated the list with the addition of alexandrite in June and citrine to november while pink tourmaline was assigned to October. But it is not over. The American Gem Trade Association in 2002 added the tanzanite as birthstone to December. And not to be outdone by the National Association of Goldsmiths of Great Britain has created its own standard list of stones, in 1937. Italy also has its stones tied to the month: garnet to January, the amethyst to February, aquamarine to March, diamond to April, emerald to May, the alexandrite, moonstone and pearl to June, Ruby to July, the peridot to August, sapphire to September, opal and tourmaline, citrine to October, the topaz to November, and tanzanite to December, turquoise and zircon.

Mese	Italia	XV-XX Secolo	Usa	Gran Bretagna	India
Gennaio	Granato	Granato	Granato	Granato	Serpentina
Febbraio	Ametista	Ametista, zircone rosso, perla	Ametista	Ametista	Pietra luna
Marzo	Acquamarina	Eliotropio, diaspro	Acquamarina, eliotropio	Acquamarina, eliotropio	Gold Shiva Lingam
Aprile	Diamante	Diamante, zaffiro	Diamante	Diamante, cristallo di rocca	Diamante
Maggio	Smeraldo	Smeraldo, agata	Smeraldo	Smeraldo, crisoprasio	Smeraldo
Giugno	Alessandrite, pietra luna, perla	Occhio di gatto, turchese, agata	Perla, pietra luna, alessandrite	Perla, pietra luna	Perla
Luglio	Rubino	Turchese, onice	Rubino	Rubino, corniola	Zaffiro
Agosto	Peridoto	Sardonia (calcedonio), corniola, pietra luna, topazio	Peridoto	Peridoto, sardonia (calcedonio)	Rubino
Settembre	Zaffiro	Crisolito	Zaffiro	Zaffiro, lapislazzuli	Zircone
Ottobre	Opale, tormalina	Opale, acquamarina	Opale, tormalina	Opale	Corallo
Novembre	Citrino, topazio	Topazio, perla	Citrino, topazio	Citrino, topazio	Occhio di gatto
Dicembre	Tanzanite, turchese, zircone	Eliotropio, rubino	Tanzanite, turchese, zircone	Tanzanite, turchese	Topazio

Mese di gennaio: granato

Una spilla del periodo georgiano. Argento con granati, circa 1820

Mese di febbraio: ametista

Mese di marzo: acquamarina

Anello con acquamarina di 63.63 carati sopra un pavé di diamanti top wesselton

Mese di aprile: diamante

Mese di maggio: smeraldo

Anello con smeraldo taglio pan di zucchero

Mese di giugno: alessandrite

Mese di luglio: rubino

Orecchini in oro rosa e rubino sintetico

Mese di agosto: peridoto

Anello Riflessi di Garavelli. Oro, diamanti e peridoto

Mese di settembre: zaffiro

Anello in platino con zaffiro e diamanti

Mese di ottobre: opale

Louis Vuiotton, anello Capri con opale iridescente e diamanti

Mese di novembre: topazio

Mese di dicembre: turchese

Orecchini di turchese — Confuorto, orecchini con turchesi

Why precious stones are heated?

Published on December 26, 2021

Campus

Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms

Precious and semi-precious stones in the great majority are heated at high temperatures. Or subjected to radiation. That’s why ♦

If the precious stones warm your heart is perhaps because in turn have been heated. Not from your eyes, but from an electric furnace which can reach 1,600 degrees. The thermal treatment of precious and semiprecious stones is known to jewelers and gemologists, but little known to the general public, that is, those who buy jewelry that flaunt jewels of deep red, deep blue sapphires, aquamarines transparent. In fact, the colored stones that are sold as natural are a small minority, most end up in the oven, without the intervention of a chef. We see, then, what is the heat treatment of gemstones.

Un sacchetto di rubini estratti in una miniera birmana

Warm color
The stones are heated above all to bring out the colors. During treatment the stone is heated to very high temperatures (up to about 1600 degrees Celsius). At this temperature the inclusions (small amounts of other minerals) present in the stone melt and add their own color to the stone. Usually, therefore, the heated stone becomes darker, of a more intense hue. This is the case, for example, of rutile in the blue sapphires. There are also sapphires, known as Gouda, which are extracted from the ground milk and white sapphires turn blue when heated. Even the rubies are almost always heated (except exceptions): with the heat the aluminum oxide in the stone creates a new crystalline structure and the chromium is combined in a different way, allowing a better shade of red. Another effect of the heat is that it can improve the transparency of the stone, thanks to the destruction of any gas or fluid inclusions.

I rubini sono stati messi in un recipiente al centro del fuoco, dove vengono riscaldati

How to find them
Do you have a ring with a natural stone or heated? The question should be: what does it matter? But if you are curious to know, you must contact a gemologist with a microscope. And even so will not be easy to find out. The gemologists, however, can examine the internal state of the stone, inclusions, and look for signs of heat treatment. In general, if the stone is perfect or has exceptional value, or has been treated.
What stones are heated
Here the stones more easily end up in the oven: amethyst, citrine, ametrine, aquamarine, tourmaline, topaz, sapphire, ruby, tanzanite, blue zircon.

A sinistra, una tanzanite prima di essere riscaldata. A destra, la tanzanite dopo il trattamento con il calore

Irradiation

In addition to being heated, precious and semi-precious stones can be subjected to radiation. The question is: are they dangerous then? No, no problem: they are under strict control, just like when you go to the hospital for a chest screen. And, in any case, before leaving the laboratory the stones are checked to ensure that they do not emit dangerous radiation. After all, many gems are naturally subjected to radiation when underground. The irradiation that takes place in the laboratory serves to strengthen or change the color. A stone often subjected to radiation is blue topaz, which in nature is found with a very light shade. Often the two treatments, the thermal and the radioactive one, are combined: each one manages to improve a different aspect of the stone.

A sinistra, un rubino naturale. A destra il rubino dopo essere stato riscaldato

rubino non trattato e1544889019119 — Un rubino non trattato: notare le inclusioni e la luce irregolare

Henn’s artistic gems

Published on May 31, 2021

COLLANE/alta gioielleria/Showroom

The carvings, the custom-made jewels, the precious gems of the Henn family ♦ ︎

Thinking about precious stones, gems, minerals that have formed over millions of years under the earth’s crust, the result of random chemical compositions, stratospheric pressures, unlikely combinations, are materials to be considered with veneration. At least with respect. And it is the philosophy that follows the Henn family. Not by chance in decades of work Henn has become synonymous with gemstone lovers, experts required all over the world for their experience.

Pendente con la testa di leone intagliata su acquamarina

Henn operates at the top end of the market, on all continents. The family has expanded, but remains united in the passion that unites two generations of the family throughout Europe. Between Germany, in Idar-Oberstein, and London, Great Britain, where the headquarters of their company are located, the expert gemmologists of the Henn family do not limit themselves to judging, classifying or buying and selling gems, but they also make jewelry and small objects which are authentic masterpieces. Henn of London, for example, creates bespoke high jewelry. But also small sculptures made by directly carving precious stones or using enamelling. Their work is appreciated above all by the most refined collectors.

Hans-Jürgen Henn, creative director of the company, represents the third generation and over fifty years of experience, and has developed a special experience for extraordinary gems and minerals. In his bio he says that he has combined a passion for precious stones with mountaineering, and is always in search of the rare and the unknown. He was the first to coin the term Kashmir Peridot. He also had the vision and foresight to acquire and preserve the Dom Pedro aquamarine as one spectacular stone. This legendary piece, exquisitely cut by Bernd Munsteiner, was gifted to the Smithsonian Institute in 2011. It remains the largest fine aquamarine ever cut and perhaps there will never be another. Axel Henn, employed in the London branch of the Maison, is a gemologist and carver: he manages relations with museums, companies, designers, and is part of the German gemological association. And Ingo Henn is a jeweler, master goldsmith, gemologist: he manages the production of the team of artisans engaged in the creation of jewels and sculptures of carved gems.

Collana con tormalina verde su oro giallo

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, acquamarina

Collana con pavone intagliato in tanzanite

Collana in oro bianco, diamanti e topazio