perle

The crown jewels of Holland

Even the royals of Holland can boast a good number of important jewels. Here are what are ♦

Years ago, Maxima from the Netherlands was included among the 100 most influential people in the world by Time magazine for her social commitment. And she really seems like a lucky woman: she married a prince, she became queen, after Beatrice of Holland abdicated in favor of her son Willem-Alexander in 2013. Maxima Zorreguieta Cerruti, born in Argentina, also had access to one of the richest jewelery collections in Europe. It is a heritage accumulated over the centuries and kept intact thanks to a brilliant solution: that of bringing together the most important pieces in a foundation. And if the female members of the family can use them based on their dynastic role, some of these very precious jewels are reserved exclusively for the reigning queen or consort. Just like Queen Máxima, who one year after her coronation demonstrated great skill in modifying and wearing them. Because these are tiaras that can be dismantled and reassembled like necklaces and bracelets and vice versa. Here’s how, starting from the diamond-sapphire tiara worn on the day of the coronation.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara e gli orecchini della parure di zaffiri
Maxima of Holland with the tiara and earrings of the sapphire set

Sapphire Parure. Made in 1881 for Queen Emma, the tiara, which is part of the Sapphire Parure, has 655 South African round brilliant cut diamonds with a total of 242 carat and 33 sapphires of Cashmere 155 carats. One cushion cut sapphire surrounded by two smaller sapphires and five diamonds on each side is the central element, that can also be worn separately as a brooch. To make it lighter than the new queen has eliminates the three diamonds set in the shape of lilies on the top and replaces them with a single large diamond. The choker of this parure was worn as a tiara adding on top five elements each constituted by one central sapphire surrounded by diamonds in a diamond-shaped set.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la collana della parure di zaffiri indossata come tiara
Maxima of Holland with the sapphire set necklace worn as a tiara

Diamond tiara .It’s a Queen Emma wedding gift from the in 1879, and it was originally topped by three star of diamonds 12-pointed. Now it is composed of three central diamonds that can be replaced by rubies.

Dettaglio della tiara con 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Detail of the tiara with 34 rose-cut diamonds

Rose-cut diamond tiara Tiara formed by a row of 34 large diamonds embedded on the plaque of platinum (chaton) a very popular fashion in the mid-nineteenth century, which can be used as a tiara or necklace.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of 34 rose-cut diamonds

Tiara of antiques pearls Belonged to the Grand Duchess Ana Pavlovna of Russia, wife of William II of the Netherlands, is made up of diamonds and seven pear-shaped pearls that appears to date back to 1600.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara delle perle antiche
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of ancient pearls

Tiara of daisies Transformed several times, initially had on top five pearls round each surrounded by ten diamonds brilliant cut, in order to form a daisy, in fact. In 2002, in lieu of flowers the stars were included handed down by Queen Emma, the second wife of William III. The star-shaped jewelry were popular in the late nineteenth century, and it was Sissi Empress Elisabeth of Austria to bring it to its success using them as barrettes in her hair.

La tiara delle margherite
The daisy tiara

Tiara Mellerio is part of a parure consisting of a necklace, a bracelet and a brooch with rubies and diamonds in large quantities: 385 gems in the tiara, necklace in 425 and 135 in the cuff.

La tiara Mellerio con bracciali e orecchini
The Mellerio tiara with bracelets and earrings

Wurttenberg Tiara is a tiara with an intricate design of diamonds and pearls forming swirls and lilies, surmounted by two rows of pearl teardrop-shaped, six at the bottom and five in the top, both of which are removable and are therefore four possible versions : with or without beads, with the first or second row. It has always been the favorite of the former Queen Beatrix, who since her wedding day worn it in all official occasions.

Dettaglio della tiara Wurttenberg
Detail of the Wurttenberg tiara
Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di tre diamanti centrali sostituibili con i rubini
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of three central diamonds replaceable with rubies
Dettaglio della tiara delle margherite-stelle
Detail of the daisy-star tiara
La tiara dele perle antiche senza perle
The antique pearl tiara without pearls

How much are black pearls worth?

The precious black pearls: have you heard of them? Read how to recognize them and how much they are worth ♦

To indicate something of value is said to be as precious as a pearl. But if the pearl is black, the value increases. In fact, not all pearls are white: the black ones (also known as Tahitian pearls) are very valuable. Actually they are not really black, but only darker in color, tending to gray. They are the fruits of the oyster Pinctada margaritifera (also called the Tahitian black pearl oyster), a mollusk that lives Indo-Pacific Ocean at the latitude of the Tropics.

Collana con perla di Tahiti e diamanti
Necklace with Tahitian pearl and diamonds

Black pearls are found in many shades, metal color, many shades of gray (who knows, maybe 50 …), but also green peacock (they are considered particularly valuable), or to purple, like eggplant, and brown dark. The color depends on the minerals that the clam has ingested contained in the plankton, the food of oysters. In the cultivation of pearls, however, they are using dye or irradiation to improve or change their color. But do not expect to identify them: it is difficult to pick a natural pearl from a treated. As for gems, pearls also have values ​​(and costs) different.

The name of these pearls is, of course, linked to the place where they are grown, ie mainly around the islands of French Polynesia, near Tahiti.

Yoko London, Aurora necklace
Yoko London, Aurora necklace

The value of pearls in jewelry is determined by a combination of brightness, color, size, lack of surface defects and symmetry. A perfectly round bead is considered more precious, while elongated drop-shaped pearls are often used in pendants. Another aspect to consider is the shine, which is an important element of differentiation of the quality of the pearl.

Anello della collezione Bubble con perle di Tahiti
Assael, ring from the Bubble collection with Tahitian pearls

So, how much are Tahitian black pearls worth? As we said, it really depends on the size and quality. Also, there are pearls out there that are simply colored black. A not too long necklace with a string of real black pearls can have a value ranging from a few hundred euros or dollars, if made up of smaller and lower quality ones, up to a few tens of thousands of euros/dollars if the pearls have a good sheen, are natural and have a regular spherical shape.

If you have jewels with pearls of this color, treat them with care: pearls are delicate and can deteriorate if not treated well. In any case, if you want to know how to clean jewels with pearls, we advise you to read the article we have already published and which explains in detail what you need to do to keep jewels with pearls clean, but without damaging them.

Collana di perle di Tahiti, oro giallo, lapislazzuli
Tahitian pearl necklace, yellow gold, lapis lazuli

How to distinguish a black Tahitian pearl from an imitation, fake? In fact, online there are extraordinary offers of jewelry with low price Tahitian pearls. These are most likely colored freshwater pearls. Unfortunately, from the images on the web it is not easy to distinguish real Tahitian pearls from imitations. Colored pearls, however, usually have a uniform hue, while real pearls tend to have color variations on the surface. Furthermore, often the color used to make the pearls black is concentrated more near the small hole where the thread that binds the pearls passes. Then, look with a loupe if the hole in the pearl looks darker than the rest.

Tahitian pearls are judged based on a strict classification. Here it is:

1 Shape: if is more round on a regular basis, plus the pearl is appreciated.

Perle nere
Black pearls

2 Size: bigger is better.

Necklace with Tahitian pearls
Necklace with Tahitian pearls

3 Surface: it is preferred that very smooth, with no flaws.

Collana con perle di Tahiti e chiusura in oro
Necklace with Tahitian pearls and gold clasp

4 Luster: if he shines the most valuable.

Anello con perla nera di Tahiti e diamanti
Ring with black Tahitian pearl with violet hue and diamonds

5 Nacre: more the pearl is thicker, it will last over time.

Anello in argento con perla tahitiana
Silver ring with Tahitian pearl

6 Color: the most popular colors are peacock green, or shades tending to blue, pink, gold, silver, purple eggplant.

Anello Dawn, in oro nero, diamanti, perle di Tahiti, granati e citrini
Dawn ring, in black gold, diamonds, Tahitian pearls, garnets and citrines

How to wear the choker

The chocker, a jewel that has come back into fashion in recent years. That’s when to wear it ♦

The chocker, also called collier de chien, gargantilla or girocollo, is back. Because lights up the face, hides flaws and especially dress up. It knows well Nicole Kidman, seen at the Music Awards with a model in platinum and big diamonds by Fred Leighton. And so did an icon of youth and beauty like Princess Diana, who often wore chockers, even in official photos: three, six, eight threads of pearls, closed by precious stones’s clasps surrounded by diamonds.

La principessa Diana con girocollo di perle con zaffiro blu
Princess Diana with blue sapphire pearl choker

In large and different sizes Chanel new version pearls, strictly false as bubbles in molten glass or metallic. And also others fashion’s big names has used chockers on the catwalk: those of Roberto Cavalli are in panther style, Alexander McQueen, on the other hand, focuses on flowers, but made of steel, while the ones by Maison Martin Margiela would fit on Star Wars soldiers. In the world of jewelry they have with big mesh encrusted with crystals or with all types of colorful chains. So, any style is fine as long as dresses the neck. Also because after a certain age it is almost mandatory not to attention to wrinkles with a normal necklace. Then you might as well act in advance.

Katy Perry con choker di diamanti brown
Katy Perry with brown diamond choker

When to wear it. There is no rule establishing when to wear a crew neck. In short, any style is fine as long as it decorates the neck. But there are rules that advise when not to wear a crew neck. For example, when the neck is not your strong point: if you have a short, thick, not slender neck or a double chin, this kind of necklace may make your look worse. On the contrary, a high choker can be used to hide wrinkles after a certain age. But pay attention to the model: a shape that is too small could cause the opposite effect.

Kim Kardashian con un girocollo firmato Lorraine Schwartz
Kim Kardashian with a choker by Lorraine Schwartz

How to choose a choker. The collier de chien is a challenging jewel: impossible not to notice. This is why the choice of a choker must be carefully considered. First of all: do you have a fairly thin and slender neck? If the answer is yes then the choker is for you. But be careful not to overdo it: a choker made of one or many strands of pearls, in Princess Diana style, is suitable for a rather elegant dress. Chains and groumettes are associated with sportswear or very pop and, in any case, they are not recommended for women over 40 (personal opinion, mind you). In general, a large, very eye-catching choker should not be worn together with other equally important jewels, as big earrings or cocktail rings.

 

Collana della demi-parure di Scavia composta da girocollo e orecchini con rubini birmani (36 carati), smeraldi colombiani (45 ct) e zaffiri (64 ct)
Scavia demi-parure necklace composed of choker and earrings with Burmese rubies (36 carats), Colombian emeralds (45 ct) and sapphires (64 ct)
Collana Butterflies, oro rosa, diamanti, pietre di colore come ametista, peridoto, spinello
Bulgari, Butterflies choker necklace, rose gold, diamonds, colored stones such as amethyst, peridot, spinel
Girocollo Piaget per Jessica Chastain
Piaget choker for Jessica Chastain
Collana girocollo con diamanti e perle
Yoko London, diamond and pearl choker necklace
Illario, girocollo in oro, madreperla e diamanti
Illario, necklace in gold, mother of pearl and diamonds
Collana girocollo con peridoti e iolite
Marina J, choker necklace with peridots and iolite
Girocollo Glycines di Philippe Wolfers, Art Nouveau. Oro, tormalina intagliata, opale intagliato, rubini, granato
Glycines choker by Philippe Wolfers, Art Nouveau. Gold, carved tourmaline, carved opal, rubies, garnet
Dita Von Teese con girocollo di Pasquale Bruni
Dita Von Teese with crew neck by Pasquale Bruni
Girocollo in diamanti in oro bianco, formato da corolle di fiori a scalare con incastonati diamanti taglio brillante di 31,36 carati
Diamond necklace in white gold, made up of graduated flower corollas set with brilliant-cut diamonds of 31.36 carats
Girocollo con diamanti
Samer Halimeh, diamond choker
Girocollo con diamanti e rubini
Zsa Zsa Gabor, with a necklace with diamonds and rubies

Marcello Bread literally

Marcello Pane, the ancient Neapolitan tradition in modern key with the Letters collection ♦︎

The ancient tradition of Neapolitan jewelery also goes through the Marcello Pane brand. The company boasts an ancient birth in 1899. Today the company is led by Ettore and Marcello Pane, descendants of the founder of the small house. Meanwhile, it has moved from the crafts to the industrial scale: the jewels of the Marcello Pane collections are made in the goldsmith’s center of Caserta, near Naples. This shift from craft to one with more modern machining means has allowed to reduce costs.

Anello con cuore stilizzato, collezione Essential
Anello con cuore stilizzato, collezione Essential

The Marcello Pane collections follow two roads: the most traditional one with gold jewelry, and the most affordable price with silver, along with pearls, while the diamonds alternate with the crystals. One of the most popular collections, for example, is one that uses the most alpha alphabet letters in the most classic ways to make names or simply initials. The Essential and Itaca collections use silver with a particular sandblasted finish that enhances the surface of the jewels, with or without gold plating.

Bracciale in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Bracciale in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Orecchini della collezione Essential
Orecchini della collezione Essential
Orecchini in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Orecchini in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Bracciale rigido in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Bracciale rigido in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Girocollo Ellisse
Girocollo Ellisse
Collana con cuore stilizzato, collezione Essential
Collana con cuore stilizzato, collezione Essential

All about pearls

All about pearls: a quick guide with what you need to know about one of the most loved items in jewelry. They are also considered one of the gems (even if they are not) of the month of June ♦

Pearls: this strange and precious shape is in fashion all year, every year. In fact, pearls have been liked for centuries: since ancient times they have been used for jewelry, even for men. Queens and princesses, young girls and old grandmothers: they all wore and will wear pearls, maybe in a different way. But they are not only used for necklaces, rings and earrings: these translucent spheres are in fact made up of a material that is used to produce also some beauty cream.

Ellence, collana Sakura
Ellence, Sakura necklace

Pearl is a sphere but is not always perfect. It consists of calcium carbonate in crystalline form (aragonite). This substance forms as a deposit in concentric layers and is produced from molluscs (usually oysters). The term pearl derives from the Latin word pernula, indicating the shell that contains it, and whose oblong oval shape reminded the ancient Romans, curiously, the thigh of the pig. A pearl is formed when a foreign body, such as parasites or pieces of shells, stops in the shell cavity of the shell. To protect yourself, the molluscs cover it with a pearls. In this way, several layers of calcium are deposited which, in combination with other minerals, create pearls.

Collana di Yoko London in oro bianco, perle e diamanti indossata nella serie «Bridgerton». Copyright: gioiellis.com
Yoko London necklace in white gold, pearls and diamonds worn in the «Bridgerton» series. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The nacre, or mother-of-pearl, is the natural substance that the molluscs secrete to protect themselves from irritants such as fragments of shells, parasites or foreign bodies grafted.
Contrary to what you think, a round pearl is rare (and, therefore, worth more). Usually, however, cultured pearls do not have symmetrical shapes. Although they may be very lustrous, they cost less than round pearls. Pearls that are not round can be created with special systems: to get them, a plastic fragment is inserted with the shape chosen, which the oyster will cover with the mother pearl. The result is that after years of waiting, the pearl that is born has the enlarged form of the initial fragment.
There are not only the white pearls, the most common ones. The rarest ones are pink, cream, dark purple, gray and black. But today with cultivation techniques you can also get pearls in green, blue, or orange shades. They are mainly used in jewelry.

Diverse forme di perle
Different shapes of pearls,0

Black pearls are the rarest. They can be Akoya (they are cultivated pearls that are produced by the Pinctada Fucata Martensii, better known as Oryka Akoya), from river, or Tahiti, the finest. They are also rare because oysters that create black pearls are much more delicate.
There are freshwater and saltwater pearls. The former are cultivated in lakes and rivers, the latter in the ocean and often in the lagoons. The most precious are the South Sea. But they are very widespread: they are found in the Persian Gulf and Red Sea, in the Indian Ocean, along the South Coast of India, Sri Lanka. Mother-of-pearl, besides being used in the jewelery market, is today also used in cosmetics and even for the creation of some paints.

Collana con perle di Tahiti e chiusura in oro
Necklace with Tahitian pearls and gold clasp

How to evaluate pearls
The quality is measured with the luster, that is, with the amount and quality of light reflected from the surface of the pearl. Obviously, the shine is high, the better the quality. How to do? Try: You must be able to see your reflection clearly on the surface of the pearl. If, however, you see nothing, it means that the pearl is too white and opaque, probably of medium or low quality.

Collana di perle by Coscia, indossata
Pearl necklace by Coscia

Evaluation systems

Pearls classification is complicated: in fact, two different systems are in use. AAA-A and A-D (also called Tahiti System). This can create confusion in those who buy a jewel with pearls. The AAA rating system evaluates pearls with a scale ranging from A (lowest vote) to AAA (highest vote). Usually this classification is used for freshwater pearls and Akoya, but it can also be referred to for Australians and Tahiti.

AAA High quality, with no defects. The surface of the pearl has a very high shine, and at least 95% of the surface has no defects.

AA + High quality, luster, 85% of the surface without defect.

AA The surface has a high shine, 75% of the surface has no defects.

A + Luster not very high, surface with some defect, but below 25%.

A Luster shade, more than 25% of the surface with defects.

A-D classification (or Tahiti system)

Consider pearls on a ladder that goes from A (highest vote) to D (lowest vote). It is used in particular in French Polynesia.

A high shine and minimal imperfections, below 10% of the surface.

B High or medium shine, imperfections up to 30%.

C Medium shine, imperfections up to 60%.

D Imperfections on 60% of the surface.

La dimensione delle perle
The size of the pearls

The dimension

The dimensions matter, in this case: the most sought-after pearls are the big ones. In very rare cases the diameter reaches 2 inches (australian ones). Usually, however, they are smaller: from a diameter of even less than 1 millimeter to an average size of 6.5 to 7 millimeters.

Beware of hidden defects: Be careful of your pearls, often those on bracelets or rings hide a defect at the bottom. That’s why they have (or should have) a lower price.

Read also: How to clean pearls

Collana di perle per uomo di Mikimoto
Pearl necklace for men by Mikimoto
Bracciale da mano Asteroid in oro giallo 18kt con perle 1
Tasaki gold and pearl bracelet

Pearls and design by Alessandra Donà

She has remained off the radar of the media, yet Alessandra Donà has conquered a non-secondary place on the jewelry market, especially the one that focuses on exports. The brand, in fact, regularly participates in trade fairs such as the one in Singapore or the Jck in Las Vegas. A sign that the jewels of the Vicenza-based brand meet the taste of a varied public who loves the modern and essential lines that characterize collections such as Friday Night or Timeless, consisting of earrings, necklaces or rings in gold with pearls and pavé of precious or semi-precious stones. precious.

Anello in oro con perla e zaffiri rosa
Gold ring with pearl and pink sapphires

Although it is evidently well established in the jewelry market, not much is known about Alessandra Donà. In the short autobiographical notes it is indicated that she took her first steps in the world of pearls during her collaboration with some of the most important international fashion houses. She has also traveled to Europe and the East for many years, perfecting her experience and knowledge of the market and the most important pearl growing regions in the world. After producing for third parties, since 2009 she has launched the brand under her own name. Among other things, the brand was founded in an Italian Renaissance building, Palazzo Capra Querini, in Vicenza. Alessandra Donà explains her style with the intention of proposing jewels “that do not abandon themselves to the temptation of futile trends, but that trace the future in the imaginary axis that harmoniously unites the greatness of the past with the expressions of the future”.

Mono orecchini con perla nera South Sea e labradorite
Mono earrings with black South Sea pearl and labradorite
Anello in oro con perla
Gold ring with pearl
Anello in oro con perla e tsavoriti
Gold ring with pearl and tsavorites
Bracciale in oro e tsavoriti
Gold and tsavorite bracelet
Collana in oro e pavé di zaffiri rosa
Necklace in gold and pink sapphire pavé
Mono orecchino ion oro con perla
Single gold ion earring with pearl
Orecchini in oro, perle, zaffiri rosa
Earrings in gold, pearls, pink sapphires

Pearl Odyssey in GemGèneve

Paraphrasing an old (beautiful) film by Stanley Kubrick, the new edition of GemGèneve (2-5 November) can be characterized as 2023, A Pearl Odyssey. Because a special focus is dedicated to this fruit of the sea, including precious vintage jewels, gems and design pieces. The Pearl Odyssey exhibition brings together over 30 jewels and extraordinary pieces: the Chaumet maison, the Flee Project collective, a private collection and several partner exhibitors took part in this project.

Devant de corsage by Vever, 1900. Faerber Collection
Devant de corsage by Vever, 1900. Faerber Collection

Natural pearls are wonderful. With their extraordinary beauty, these rare gems have fascinated the world for thousands of years. They take decades to form, and for this reason they are a priceless natural treasure. We have decided to pay homage to them with this discovery-exhibition, in November 2023, to reveal this hidden beauty to visitors. The perfection of natural pearls lies in their very imperfection. Each pearl is unique in size, shape, color and luster. It can be round, oval, baroque or even teardrop-shaped. The color varies from pure white to deep black, passing through a wide range of shades: pink, champagne, or even iridescent blue-green, reminiscent of the wings of a dragonfly.
Ronny Totah, Co-founder of GemGenève

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot
Ronny Totah. Photo: G.Maillot

The space was designed by Flee Project. The exhibition allows a dive into the atmosphere of the pearl divers of the Persian Gulf and other places, presents jewels of imperial origin, or embellished with an extraordinary pearl, but also the creativity of the greatest jewelers. The exhibition itinerary ends with a scientific note and, with the support of the Swiss Institute of Gemology (SSEF), which presents the history of the study of pearls since the last century, with the theme of the differentiation between fine pearls and cultured pearls. From Joseph Chaumet’s first experiments to the cutting-edge techniques developed by the partner laboratory, this last space offers a complete overview of the different evaluation methods that allow us to determine the quality and origin of all the pearls in the world.
Due bracciali-orologio in oro, perle, smeraldi. @Nils Herrmann
Two watch bracelets in gold, pearls, emeralds. @Nils Herrmann

For several years the pearl has returned to the protagonist scene in the world of jewellery. Considered obsolete or too classic for a long time, today it is a source of inspiration for a new generation of jewelers.
Bracciale con perle e diamanti di Cartier, 1962. Faerber collection
Pearl and diamond bracelet by Cartier, 1962. Faerber collection

A collection for Mikimoto’s 130th anniversary

Turning 130 and feeling young. It is a feeling experienced by the designers of Mikimoto, the Japanese Maison synonymous with jewelery with pearls, which is celebrating its important anniversary. And, of course, the best way to celebrate is to present a new collection. The result would have satisfied Kokichi Mikimoto, the founder of the company who in 1983 created the process for obtaining cultured pearls. In addition to the collection, to celebrate the anniversary Mikimoto has produced videos that underline sustainability in the production of pearls, to implement a zero-emission farming system capable of collecting and recycling the waste from the process. Previously, when the pearls were collected, the shells and the rest of the mollusk were thrown away: now Mikimoto reuses and recycles the waste.

Ciondolo Splash con perle Akoya e zaffiri
Splash pendant with Akoya pearls and sapphires

Collagen and conchiolin, the pearl protein, are extracted for use in cosmetics and food supplements, while oyster shells are repurposed for decorative use. The 130th birthday collection is a mix of new jewels and past designs, produced in limited editions. The pearls, mostly of the Akoya type, but not only, were combined with white gold, diamonds and blue sapphires. It is a very varied collection, with prices starting from 640 dollars to 246,000 dollars for the diamond necklace with a pendant composed of a rare pink conch pearl.

Collana con diamanti, oro bianco e perla conch
Necklace with diamonds, white gold and conch pearl
Collana con perle multicolori
Necklace with multicolored pearls
Spella Giardino misterioso con diamanti e perle conch
Mysterious Garden brooch with diamonds and conch pearls
Orecchini con perle Akoya e zaffiri
Earrings with Akoya pearls and sapphires

5 rules for choosing pearl earrings

How to choose pearl earrings? To decide, look at what Kate Middleton wore ♦ ︎

Pearls, especially earrings, have always been a must for queens and princesses. When, for example, Prince Louis was baptized, no one was surprised that his mother, the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, wore pearl earrings (along with a cream Alexander McQueen dress). The earrings, if you’re curious, were by London jeweler Cassandra Goad and cost £ 4,360. Each pearl features a small diamond set, surrounded by 18K yellow gold. Fun Look: The design of these earrings was inspired by clusters of cauliflower in a Sicilian market.

Kate Middleton al battesimo del principe Louis
Kate Middleton al battesimo del principe Louis

Cassandra Goad, orecchini Cavolfiore, indossati da Kate Middleton
Cassandra Goad, orecchini Cavolfiore, indossati da Kate Middleton

In short, this is just one example. Pearl earrings are regularly worn on the most diverse occasions. There are those who choose pearls and combine them with jeans or those, like Kate Middleton, who use them as a classic and always fashionable jewel also for official occasions, evenings and ceremonies. According to the International Gem Society, white pearls have a link with innocence and purity. In Asia, pearls are considered a symbol of divinity and a higher power due to the external appearance and circular shape of the gem. However, pearl earrings are not all the same. First of all, pearls can have different shapes, not necessarily circular. And, moreover, pearls also have different colors: from pearly white to shades of gold, green or dark gray.
Meghan Markle con gli orecchini di perle
Meghan Markle con gli orecchini di perle

How to choose pearl earrings

1 Choose earrings with dangling pearls, perhaps in the shape of a drop, if you have a rather round face.

2 Better earrings with button pearls, or clusters like those worn by Kate Middleton, if you have an elongated face.

3 The color of the pearls can also be matched to the skin tone. White or golden pearls for those with fair skin, Tahitian pearls with a gray color or with purple hues for those with brown or dark skin.

4 A pair of pearl earrings can be worn on any occasion as long as it is simple, such as stud earrings. Pendant earrings, perhaps combined with diamonds or other precious stones is better if they are reserved for busy evenings.

5 Matching with the dress: white pearls are neutral and can be combined with any outfit. Colored pearls, on the other hand, are to be considered in all respects as jewels to be coordinated with the color of the dress, such as a scarf or a brooch.

Orecchini pendenti in oro 18 carati e diamanti con due perle South Sea
Jewelmer, orecchini pendenti in oro 18 carati e diamanti con due perle South Sea

Orecchini in oro bianco e perle di Tahiti, diamanti
Schoeffel, orecchini in oro bianco e perle di Tahiti, diamanti
Orecchini in oro rosa, diamanti e perle rosa
Coscia, orecchini in oro rosa, diamanti e perle rosa
Autore, orecchini della collezione Stars & Galaxies
Autore, orecchini della collezione Stars & Galaxies
Yoko London, orecchini con perle di Tahiti e diamanti
Yoko London, orecchini con perle di Tahiti e diamanti
tiffany signature pearlsearrings 23100509 870395 ED M
Tiffany Signature, orecchini con perle e diamanti
Autore, perle dorate dei Mari del Sud
Autore, perle dorate dei Mari del Sud
La regina Elisabetta indossa gli orecchini con perle
La regina Elisabetta indossa gli orecchini con perle
Orecchini Hoops in fibra di carbonio, perle
Fabio Salini, orecchini Hoops in fibra di carbonio, perle
Orecchini con tormalina bicolore e perle di Thaiti
Assael, orecchini con tormalina bicolore e perle di Tahiti
Orecchini a forma di grappolo d'uva, con perle, platino e diamanti
Verdura, orecchini a forma di grappolo d’uva, con oro, perle, platino e diamanti
Orecchini di perle con diamanti
Mikimoto, orecchini di perle con diamanti
Suzanne Belperron, orecchini in platino con perle e diamanti, anni Cinquanta
Suzanne Belperron, orecchini in platino con perle e diamanti, anni Cinquanta
Clip di perle coltivate di René Bonvin
Clip di perle coltivate di René Bonvin

Beware of jewels that are easily damaged

Did you know that light and heat can ruin your jewelry? Yet it is so. There are many jewels that can be compromised due to continuous exposure to light and too high a temperature. And it is not a question of the flame of a fire, but of simple solar heat. Here, then, which jewelry you need to protect your jewelry from light and heat.

Collana con acquamarina e pietre dure
Collana con acquamarina e pietre dure

The jewels at risk with light
First of all, it is better to clarify: not all jewels are sensitive to light and heat and, even those that are, have different degrees of criticality. An 18K gold bracelet will not have too many problems. The jewels most at risk, on the other hand, are those that use stones or other delicate materials: just like the skin or fabrics, the sun’s rays can compromise their color, which can fade. Too much light (beyond what is necessary for a simple use of the jewel) can also seriously damage their structure. The jewels at risk are those with delicate materials such as amber, ivory, pearls. But also with precious stones such as amethyst, kunzite, topaz, or cameos made with the engraving of a shell. Pearls and ivory, for example, are elements that turn whiter when exposed to extreme light. For a colored pearl, such as the black ones from Tahiti, the light can cause considerable damage. On the contrary, amber becomes darker if exposed to the sun for a long time.

Le perle sono tra i materiali più delicati
Le perle sono tra i materiali più delicati

The jewels at risk with heat
So much heat and then sudden cold, for example in the summer when you go from the beach to an air-conditioned room, is a risk factor for stone jewelry. Sudden changes in temperature, in fact, can crack stones or more delicate materials. Pearls, for example, could dry out, break and discolor if they lose the moisture they need. But even stones like opals can change color and suddenly turn white or dark, and tiny cracks can appear on the surface, which in the long run can compromise the structure of the stone itself. There is also another reason to fear the heat. Many colored gemstones, in fact, are subjected to strong heat to improve the color and, in some cases, to make them even more transparent. Not only that: they are also often treated with solvents, steam and ultrasonic cleaners. These treatments can make the gem more attractive, but also more delicate. In short, don’t leave a stone ring in the sun for a long time.

I rubini sono stati messi in un recipiente al centro del fuoco, dove vengono riscaldati
Birmania, i rubini sono stati messi in un recipiente al centro del fuoco, dove vengono riscaldati per ravvivarne il colore

These are the most delicate gems
According to the ranking drawn up by Gia, among the stones most susceptible to heat and temperature changes, regardless of whether they are treated or not, there are tanzanite, feldspar (sun stone and moonstone), fluorite, iolite, kunzite, lapis lazuli , malachite, opal, topaz, turquoise, zircon.

Riparazione di un gioiello con pietra danneggiata
Riparazione di un gioiello con pietra danneggiata
Gli opali sono pietre particolarmente delicate
Gli opali sono pietre particolarmente delicate
Orecchini con cammeo su conchiglia sardonica
Orecchini con cammeo su conchiglia sardonica

What are akoya Pearls?

What are akoya Pearls? If you intend to buy a pearl necklace or pearl earrings, a bracelet or a ring made with these small spheres produced by special molluscs, it is easy for you to come across the term akoya, which distinguishes a particular type of pearl. But what are Akoya pearls? If you are curious, discover the characteristics of these pearls and, of course, the origin of the name akoya.

Collana di perle akoya
Mazza, collana di perle akoya

Akoya pearls are a variety of cultured pearls known for their beauty and luster. These pearls are grown in salt water and are the fruit of a type of oyster they grow in, Pinctada fucata martensii. These oysters are mainly grown in Japan, although cultivation technologies have also been developed in other countries, such as China and Korea. However, akoya pearls are available all over the world. This variety of pearls are considered the quintessential classic pearls. They were first introduced to Japan in the late 19th century, and have since become one of the most popular pearls in the world.
Orecchini in oro giallo e perle Akoya
Orecchini in oro giallo e perle Akoya

Characteristics of akoya pearls
As we have said, akoya pearls are appreciated for their luster, but also for their brilliant color and regular shape. Luster refers to the pearl’s ability to reflect light, creating a luminous effect on the surface. The color of akoya pearls is generally white or cream, although they are available in other shades such as pink, gold and silver. The round shape is considered the ideal shape for akoya pearls, but they can also be oval, teardrop or baroque. Akoya pearls are generally smaller than other cultured pearls, ranging in diameter from 2 to 10 millimeters. However, there are also larger akoya pearls that can be as large as 12-13 millimeters. These beads are commonly used to make jewelry such as necklaces, bracelets and earrings.
Orecchini con perle akoya
Orecchini con perle akoya di Nimei

Cultivation of akoya pearls
Cultivation of akoya pearls begins with the selection of ripe oysters, which are then grafted with a piece of mantle tissue from another oyster. This tissue stimulates the oyster to produce mother-of-pearl, or nacre, a substance that coats the nucleus of the implanted tissue, forming the pearl.
Bracciale con perle Akoya e diamanti di Yoko London
Bracciale con perle Akoya e diamanti di Yoko London

Pearl cleaning
Akoya pearls are considered a symbol of elegance and sophistication, and are often worn on special occasions such as weddings and formal events. They are also a great choice for gifts, especially for women who appreciate fashion and design. Be careful: Akoya pearls are quite fragile, so they must be treated with care to avoid scratches or damage. Avoid exposing them to chemicals or heat, and it is best to clean them gently with a soft cloth after use.
Assael, bracciale in oro con perle Akoya
Assael, bracciale in oro con perle Akoya

The origin of the name
The term akoya comes from the name of the oyster that produces these pearls, or the akoya oyster according to the Japanese name (Pinctada fucata martensii). These oysters grow naturally in the coastal waters of Japan, where the water is rich in nutrients and minerals that promote pearl growth, and where akoya pearls were first cultured in the late 19th century. The term akoya is Japanese for salt water, which reflects the environment in which these pearls are grown.

Bracciale della linea Milano con perle Akoya gialle indossato
Alessio Boschi, bracciale della linea Milano con perle Akoya gialle indossato

What are maki-e pearls





The word maki, in Japanese, means roll, as those who frequent sushi restaurants know well. Maki-e, instead, indicates an ancient pearls manufacturing technique. It is quite rare technique and often is associated with a mosaic processing.

Orecchini con perle maki-e di Deirdre Featherstone
Orecchini con perle maki-e di Deirdre Featherstone

This technique consists in adding lacquer and 24-karat gold powder paint and tiny abalone tesserae to the pearls. The result is small decorated and even more precious pearls. Maki-e, in particular, is a painting technique developed a thousand years ago in Japan. The lacquer is applied to the surface of the pearl, and then mixed with gold or silver powder paint. The mosaic applied to pearls is, however, a more recent technique, but is often used together with the maki-e process. Only South Sea pearls are used to create these creations.

Pendente con perla di Tahiti e pesci Koi di Judi McCormick Jewelry
Pendente con perla di Tahiti e pesci Koi di Judi McCormick Jewelry

Maki-e is a traditional Japanese decoration technique from the Edo period. Each bead is hand decorated using a combination of Urushi lacquer (from the Japanese Urushi tree), 24k gold dust and abalone shell.

Orecchini con perle maki-e di Karafuru
Orecchini con perle maki-e di Karafuru

If you have never seen a pearl worked in mosaic or painted with the maki-e technique don’t worry: they are very rare. In the world there are only four manufacturers of pearls decorated in this. In the US, Eliko Pearls distributes these pearls, which sells them at a price between 300 and 1200 dollars each.

Orecchini con granati, diamanti e perle a mosaico di Deirdre Featherstone
Orecchini con granati, diamanti e perle a mosaico di Deirdre Featherstone
Collana con pendente: perla maki-e di Deirdre Featherstone
Collana con pendente: perla maki-e di Deirdre Featherstone
Anello con perla maki-e
Anello con perla maki-e







Sophie Bille Brahe’s bubbles of diamonds and pearls






Venice has inspired poets, painters, musicians. But also jewelers and designers. In the case of the Danish Sophie Bille Brahe, however, Venice was not the muse, but Murano. The island near the lagoon city is famous for its glass craft workshops. And it is precisely the artisans-artists of Murano, who work the delicate material, that Sophie Bille Brahe has decided to combine pearls and glass spheres, in an unusual and refined mix.

Bracciale tennis in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Bracciale tennis in oro 14 carati e diamanti
In short, the Copenhagen designer added something more to her way of making jewelry, a passion she has cultivated since she was a child. Once grown up, she studied jewelry design at the Royal College of Art in London and trained with master jewelers in her hometown. She founded his brand in 2011. The jewels are handmade using secular jewelery techniques.
Orecchini Jardin de Coeurs in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Orecchini Jardin de Coeurs in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce

She divides his jewelry into two broad lines: pearls and diamonds. In both cases she uses that simple and intelligent design that is typical of the Nordic countries. Pearls are often used in clusters with ever-changing volumes, while diamonds are aligned with a rivière that provides movement to the composition. Simple, but effective.

Collana Jardin de Peggy in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Collana Jardin de Peggy in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Sophie Bille Brahe
Sophie Bille Brahe
Orecchini Promenade Perles
Orecchini Promenade Perles
Anello Plateau Diamant in oro e diamanti
Anello Plateau Diamant in oro e diamanti
Orecchini in oro e diamanti Ocean Dree
Orecchini in oro e diamanti Ocean Dree

Orecchini chandelier in oro q4 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Orecchini chandelier in oro q4 carati e perle di acqua dolce







The imperial jewels by Vivienne Westwood




Pearl jewels are one of the main trends of 2021. A great comeback, like that of Vivienne Westwood, who died at the age of 81, but who had returned to occupy the pages dedicated to fashion. And her pearl necklaces have become a Google certified trend. One of the most frequent searches on the search engine, regarding jewels, is related to the pearl necklaces signed Vivienne Westwood. And on TikTok the British designer experienced a second youth. In short, in addition to dresses, Vivienne Westwood’s pearl necklaces are popular. And not only that: even the rings are among the most clicked jewels of the London Maison.

Collana in ottone placcato con l'emblema Orb, perle sintetiche
Collana in ottone placcato con l’emblema Orb, perle sintetiche

It must also be added that the prices are absolutely compatible even for the wallets of the youngest. Cubic zirconia and pearls Swarovski, metal and crystals. A distinctive stylistic element is the use of the Orb emblem, a symbol of royal power. It consists of a sphere surmounted by a cross. It symbolizes the cosmos, the universe as a harmonious whole, which originates with the ancient Romans, who associated with Jupiter and, therefore, with the emperor as his earthly representative. And, after all, Vivienne Westwood is a queen of fashion.

Anello canna di fucile, perle sintetiche
Anello canna di fucile, perle sintetiche
Collana in ottone con perle Swarovski
Collana in ottone con perle Swarovski
Bracciale in ottone con perle Swarovski by Vivienne Westwood
Bracciale in ottone con perle Swarovski by Vivienne Westwood
Bracciale in ottone con perle Swarovski
Bracciale in ottone con perle Swarovski
Anello in argento riciclato e placcato oro rosa, con zirconia cubica
Anello in argento riciclato e placcato oro rosa, con zirconia cubica
Anello in argento e cristalli Swarovski
Anello in argento e cristalli Swarovski







Pearls and design with Mizuki




The delicate and refined pearls by the Japanese-American designer Mizuki Goltz ♦

The cult of pearls has arrived in the West from the East. In particular, from Japan, where over a century ago the cultivation of molluscs that generate these delicate spheres began. It is not surprising, therefore, that Mizuki Goltz uses mainly pearls for her jewels. The designer is a perfect bridge between refined and essential Japanese design and the minimal taste of the West, especially that of the North. She explains that her collections reflect her cultural background.

Bracciale con perle barocche e diamanti
Bracciale con perle barocche e diamanti

Mizuki graduated in sculpture at the School of Visual Arts in New York, but then decided to combine her love for fashion and the arts with jewelry, along with fellow artist Alan Goltz. The adventure began in 1996 in a loft in downtown Soho, New York, and has grown to become a life in New York and California. But she often returns to his hometown, Tokyo, to regain contact with oriental culture. Her seemingly simple jewels have received many awards, such as the Town and Country 2017 Pearls of the Year award. In 2016, she won the Pearl Design award at Centurion and the prestigious Pearl Design award at the Couture Show in Las Vegas. Prices of her jewels (on sale online): on average from 1500 to 30,000 dollars.

Collana e orecchini con cascata di perle indossati
Collana e orecchini con cascata di perle indossati
Orecchini di perle e diamanti, pezzo unico
Orecchini di perle e diamanti, pezzo unico
Orecchino in oro, perla barocca e diamanti
Orecchino in oro, perla barocca e diamanti
Anello in oro, perla barocca e diamanti
Anello in oro, perla barocca e diamanti
Anello in oro con perla barocca e diamanti
Anello in oro con perla barocca e diamanti
Orecchini di perle Sea of Beauty, indossati
Orecchini di perle Sea of Beauty, indossati






The classic style seen by Marina J




The classic jewel played by an experienced restorer of ancient jewelery: necklaces, bracelets and rings of Marina J ♦ ︎
From Russia to Los Angeles with the same think: jewels. The story of Marina Feldman, however, also goes through a parallel activity: the restoration of ancient jewels. He worked 25 years in the United States, Russia and Europe to restore pearls jewelry to Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and for many antique jewelery stores around the world. As a restorer, Marina has thought of making a further step forward and drawing new jewels. But of course, his company, Marina J, does not forget what he has learned with the art of restoration.

Spilla vintage a forma di farfalla su collana di agata, zaffiri gialli e tormalina verde
Spilla vintage a forma di farfalla su collana di agata, zaffiri gialli e tormalina verde

Its jewelery resembles a lot, in some cases, to those of the late nineteenth or early twentieth century. For example, the sautoir of pearls with tassels or fringes that resemble those of Cartier or Chaumet, the choker with a medallion in the center, but also art deco bracelets and rings. To these themes is added the Russian soul, which has not been lost but infused in the most western style. In short, Marina J does not underlines to the use of exceptional stones, but to the kind of quality jewelery, with a reassuring, classic design. Even prices are quite reasonable: from about $ 600-800 for earrings, up to $ 2,000 for the most precious necklaces.

Collana vinage in oro e argento con ametista
Collana vinage in oro e argento con ametista
Collana con topazio blu, peridoto, semi di perla, mosaico
Collana con topazio blu, peridoto, semi di perla, mosaico
Orecchini chandelier con perle barocche su oro giallo 14 carati
Orecchini chandelier con perle barocche su oro giallo 14 carati
Collana di perle con nappa, oro 14 carati, diamanti
Collana di perle con nappa, oro 14 carati, diamanti

Collana vintage in oro 14 carati con perle e turchese
Collana vintage in oro 14 carati con perle e turchese







The Starlight Collection by Yoko London




Stars found at the bottom of the sea. This is how South Sea pearls used together with diamonds for the new rings, necklaces and earrings from Yoko London’s Starlight Collection could be considered. The pearls, which are grown in the water of the oceans, become the stars at the center of the jewels inspired by the constellations that illuminate the night sky. And as in the constellations, the collection features some geometric motifs: pearl spheres, symbolizing stars and planets, are found next to the rays that shine from diamonds, often used in diamond patterns.

Anello moi et toi con perle e diamante
Anello moi et toi con perle e diamante

In addition to the white pearls, the collection also uses the black ones from Tahiti. The rings are offered in the moi et toi version, with pearls alternating with white diamonds. Maison Yoko London specializes in pearl jewelery and has just opened a large store in London. The company was founded in 1973 by the Hakimian family and has chosen to use only natural pearls of the best quality.
Anello in oro, diamanti e perla della Starlight collection
Anello in oro, diamanti e perla della Starlight collection

Collana con perla di Tahiti e diamanti
Collana con perla di Tahiti e diamanti
Collana con perla del Mari del Sud e diamanti
Collana con perla del Mari del Sud e diamanti
Orecchini con perle e diamanti
Orecchini con perle e diamanti

Collezione Starlight indossata
Collezione Starlight indossata







The multiplications of Mattia Mazza




The district of Naples is the place in the world where a centuries-old art of working coral has developed. It is also the story of Mattia Mazza, a company founded at the beginning of the twentieth century in Torre del Greco, a town that is part of the Naples area. More than a hundred years have passed since then and four generations have followed one another at the helm of the company. In all this time, the company has expanded its scope of activity. Alongside coral, Mattia Mazza has introduced the production of jewelry with pearls, turquoise, natural stones and cameos, another specialty of Neapolitan jewelry.

Collane di corallo di Mattia Mazza
Collane di corallo di Mattia Mazza

This multiplication of specificities has led the company to create different brands related to the style and materials used. Alongside Mattia Mazza Jewelery, Mattia Mazza Pearls was born, dedicated to jewelery with pearls, Mark, a line of men’s jewelery, Kolié 925 for silver jewelery. Diana, on the other hand, is a brand for jewelry in 18-karat gold and precious stones: rubies, emeralds, sapphires, aquamarine and VVS1-colored F / G diamonds, as well as black and brown diamonds.
Linea Diana, anello in oro, diamanti e smeraldi
Linea Diana, anello in oro, diamanti e smeraldi

Linea Diana, pendente in oro, diamanti e rubini
Linea Diana, pendente in oro, diamanti e rubini
Collane in argento e turchese del marchio Kolié 925, indossate
Collane in argento e turchese del marchio Kolié 925, indossate
Collana di perle akoya
Collana di perle akoya
Orecchini con corallo
Orecchini con corallo

Collana di perle indossata
Collana di perle indossata







Men with pearl necklace by Assael




In the seventeenth century, gentlemen did not disdain brooches or pearl jewelry. Likewise, Indian maharajas have often used pearls, along with precious gems, to decorate turbans or embellish brooches. Understandably, jewelers today are aiming for a return of the male audience to high jewelery. This is the case of Assael, a New York Maison specializing in pearls and coral, which presents a 2023 communication campaign in which the man wears a string of pearls and a flashy brooch.

Anello della collezione Bubble con perle di Tahiti
Anello della collezione Bubble con perle di Tahiti

It is not the first brand to try to persuade men to wear high jewelry: before Assael also brands like Mikimoto or Boucheron presented models wearing precious jewels instead of the usual chains with plaques and leather bracelets. The Assael campaign was shot in Miami by fashion photographer David Benoliel and involves models Michaela Kocianova and James Lorenzo, who wear Assael jewelry. A precious consensus to the style of the campaign came from the jewelery historian Vivienne Becker. Will it be enough to convince a manager to show up at the bank with a pearl necklace instead of a tie?

Orecchini con corallo della Sardegna
Orecchini con corallo della Sardegna
Collana di perle della collezione Bubble
Collana di perle della collezione Bubble
Immagine della campagna 2023 si Assael
Immagine della campagna 2023 si Assael







The two streets of Sophie Bille Brahe




Sophie Bille Brahe summarizes in itself the characteristics of Nordic design: simple, yet surprising, light despite the dimensions, rigorous without missing the imagination. Well-outlined ideas: on her website you can choose two ways: pearls or diamonds. Stop. But behind the choice restricted to two types of jewelry, there is a vast world.

Orecchino singolo in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti per 1,52 carati VVS
Orecchino singolo in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti per 1,52 carati VVS

Sophie is Danish. She was born in Copenhagen (Denmark), one of the cities with the highest percentage of jewelers. The designer is one of those who started to deal with jewelry early, as a child in a small laboratory where she expressed her alternative bohemian attitude. The designer studied jewelry design at the Royal College of Art in London and trained with master jewelers in Copenhagen. She founded his Maison in 2011. A curious aspect: a great-great-great-grandfather of the designer was the famous sixteenth-century astronomer Tycho Brahe, who discovered the phenomenon of supernovae. And Sophie Bille Brahe often is inspired by the night sky for her collections.

Anello Ocean de Fleurs in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Anello Ocean de Fleurs in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Bracciale Fleur de Tennis in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Bracciale Fleur de Tennis in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Anello Grand Ensemble Ruban in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Grand Ensemble Ruban in oro giallo e diamanti
Collana di perle Grand Peggy in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Collana Grand Peggy in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Orecchini Grande rosette in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Orecchini Grande rosette in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce

Orecchino Claudia con perle di acqua dolce su oro 14 carati
Orecchino Claudia con perle di acqua dolce su oro 14 carati







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