gemme

Tom Munsteiner, farewell to a gem genius

On December 28, 2023, one of the greatest artists in gem cutting, Tom Munsteiner, founder of the Atelier Munsteiner, passed away. It is a great loss: Munsteiner was not a simple carver, but a creative person capable of giving unusual shapes to precious and semi-precious stones. The Maison’s business will now be carried on by his wife Jutta and Philipp Munsteiner, their son, together with their team in Germany. Atelier Munsteiner is a family-run business of carvers and jewelery designers located in Stipshausen, Rhineland-Palatinate. The laboratory is run by the Munsteiner family and is internationally known.

Tom Munsteiner
Tom Munsteiner

The family is in its third generation in the jewelry business, which includes Bernd Munsteiner, Viktor’s son, who founded the studio in Stipshausen in 1973. In the 1960s, Bernd Munsteiner distinguished himself from the jewelers of the time with his Fantasy cuts, a new approach to lapidary art. This original style, which breaks the canons of traditional jewellery, inspired his son Tom, whose work has an unparalleled style, between the art of faceting and sculpture.
Bracciale in oro e tormaline
Gold and tourmaline bracelet

Tom Munsteiner was not only a stone carver, but also a gemologist and, among other things, he also designed windows. His wife, Jutta Munsteiner is a goldsmith, who takes care of matching the stones with rings, bracelets or necklaces.
Orecchini in platino Apollo con agata nera e acquamarina
Apollo platinum earrings with black agate and aquamarine

Anello con tanzanite
Ring with tanzanite
Anello con acquamarina intagliata di 58,51 carati e tormalina
Ring with 58.51 carat carved aquamarine and tourmaline
Collana Aurora
Aurora necklace

Filippo G&G, the reflections of shining

Are you in love with gems? You should know Filippo Gay, who founded Filippo G&G in Geneva. The company was born with a history behind it: the family, of Turin origin, has been operating for four generations in the sector of precious stones. The business, in fact, was started by Filippo’s great-grandfather at the beginning of the 20th century. But Filippo Gay did not limit himself to buying and reselling precious stones on the wholesale market: he had a long experience going to the field to visit mines and find the best pieces.

Collana pungitopo in titanio, oro bianco, diamanti, kunzite cabochon di 73 carati. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Butcher’s broom necklace in titanium, white gold, diamonds, 73-carat kunzite cabochon. Copyright: gioiellis.com

While the family business continued on its way, between sales in Italy and the cousin who cuts gems and produces jewelry in Valenza and Bangkok, Filippo Gay when he was 20 went to live in Thailand, where he studied gemology at Asian Institute of Gemology, and where he graduated.

Orecchini foglie in alluminio e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Leaf earrings in aluminum and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

But he has not returned to Italy. Instead, he chose to stay in Bangkok, one of the capitals of the gem market, for another ten years. By attending the Thai gemstone market, Filippo confessed to having been cheated several times. Misadventures that served him to gain experience, just as it was very helpful when he was a boy to accompany his father between India and Sri Lanka to choose the stones to bring to Europe. And that’s how Filippo G&G has become one of the appreciate companies among the gem dealers. Not only that: a couple of years ago at GemGenéve Filippo G&G also presented jewelry with an innovative design, made of titanium and, of course, many shiny stones.

Orecchini in alluminio, oro bianco e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings in aluminium, white gold and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello in titanio con opale e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Titanium ring with opal and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchino/spilla in titanio e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Titanium and diamond earring/brooch. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Filippo Gay visita una miniera in Africa
Filippo Gay visits a mine in Africa
Anello in titanio, diamanti e kunzite
Ring in titanium, diamonds and kunzite. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Collier in titanio, diamanti e grossa kunzite al centro
Titanium necklace, diamonds and large kunzite in the center. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello in titanio con rubellite e diamanti
Titanium ring with rubellite and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini glicine in titanio e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Wisteria earrings in titanium and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The rare stone that few know: csarite or zultanite

A fascinating stone, but rare and little known: the csarite or zultanite. It costs like an emerald and can change color ♦ ︎

It is called zultanite or csarite and it is for gemmologists a variety of diaspore (not to be confused with jasper), ie aluminum hydroxide. The csarite is extracted in a single mine in the world, in Turkey: for this reason it is a rather rare stone. The name, zultanite or csarite, is a brand: it has not been established by gemologists, but by the company that owns the mine, the Milenyum Mining. It was discovered only at the beginning of the nineteenth century and the difficulty of processing has delayed its success: only a small part of the mineral is usable for jewelery and it is difficult to turn it into a stone with facets. Today, however, csarite has been used in jewelry also worn by many Hollywood stars for the Oscar night.

Anello con csarite
Anello con csarite

Features. The csarite is a shimmering stone, with shades ranging from yellow to cognac, pink or red. The most intense red hues are caused by high concentrations of manganese. It is also one of the few gems that can change color, along with sapphires, garnets and alexandrite.
Hardness. The csarite has an average hardness, at 6.5-7 on the Mohs scale. Basically, it is a hard stone like the tanzanite or peridot, perfectly able to be used in jewelry.

Anello in oro rosa e csarite
Anello in oro rosa e csarite

The name. As we said, Zultanite or csarite are registered trademarks of the Turkish company that extracts the stone. But the name of the mineral from which it derives, the diaspore, comes instead from the Greek word diaspora, which means scattering. And this because the gem seems to disperse the light and the glow.
At the tops. Some time ago, the mining company announced a gem of this 121.65-carat pear-shaped mineral, cut from a rough stone of about 430 grams, worth $ 1 million. It’s a record. Previously, the largest faceted csarite, always pear-shaped, weighed 88.49 carats. The only other csarite stones of similar size were cabochon cut gems, which have the cat-eye effect, with color change. The zultanite on the market has a price similar to that of emeralds.

Anello in oro bianco con zultanite e diamanti
Evelyn Huang, anello in oro bianco con zultanite e diamanti
Anello con csarite e diamanti
Anello con csarite e diamanti
Anello con csarite taglio a navette e diamanti
Anello con csarite taglio a navette e diamanti
Pendente con csarite e diamanti
Pendente con csarite e diamanti
Pietra di csarite o zultanite
Pietra di csarite o zultanite
Estrazione del minerale
Estrazione del minerale
Csarite a forma di pera da 121.65 carati
Csarite a forma di pera da 121.65 carati

Tenzo, spells of a gem-hunter

The magic of Tenzo, a Russian gem hunter able to excite with his jewels ♦

There are those who call him a gem-hunter, a sort of Indiana Jones in search of the extraordinary stone to be set in his jewels. Certainly Alexander Tenzo, a high jewelry designer based in Tallinn, Estonia, but with constant ubiquity, from Switzerland to the United States, is part of the small patrol of gem artists. He is able, for example, to carve an emerald with a unique ability, or to use precious stones with unusual shapes. In addition to choosing lesser-known gems, such as alexandrite, chrysoberyl, spessartite, along with tourmalines, rubies or diamonds.

Anello in platino con tsavorite di 10,9 carati, zaffiri, diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Platinum ring with 10.9 carat tsavorite, sapphires, diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For each creation, Tenzo tries to show the hidden soul of the stones. “I always have to start from what a stone can tell me”, confirms the artist-jeweler to gioiellis.com on one of the rare occasions when he agrees to talk about his work. The designer founded his small workshop in 1996 and soon the fame of his ability has managed to cross national borders. His unique, teased pieces unite the ancient traditions of jewelry, which in Russia are often Fabergé’s legacy, his eclectic compositional ability.

Collana con diamanti, spinelli birmani rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Necklace with diamonds, pink Burmese spinels. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Alexander Tenzo’s professional career began with a trip to Sri Lanka. On the large island located south of India, he discovered a passion for gems. For several years, Alexander has been involved in the extraction and cutting of gems, from Asia to Africa. An experience that led him to transform himself into a jewelry designer, capable of carving stones to transform them into surprising works of art.

Anello con smeraldo intagliato di 18,38 carati. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with carved emerald of 18.38 carats. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini con spinelli naturali e diamanti
Earrings with natural spinels and diamonds
Anello in oro bianco, pietra luna, spessartine
Ring in white gold, moonstone, Spessartite
Orecchini con oro bianco e giallo, diamanti grigi, gialli e bianchi
Earrings with white and yellow gold, gray, yellow and white diamonds
Pendente in oro giallo e argento, spinello, zaffiri, diamanti
Pendant in yellow gold and silver, spinel, sapphires, diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo e argento, spinello rosa e rosso
Earrings in yellow gold and silver, pink and red spinel
Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti
Earrings with demantoid garnet, diamonds
Spilla intagliata con morganite, crisoberillo, spessartite, tormalina, crisoprasio
Brooch carved with morganite, chrysoberyl, famartite, tourmaline, chrysoprase
Anello con rubino e diamanti taglio marquise
Ring with ruby and marquise cut diamonds
Anello con zaffiro cabochon e diamanti
Ring with cabochon sapphire and diamonds

Jewelry and gold: real or fake? Questions and answers

True or false? Can gold be recognized with a bite? Is real jade cold? Is cubic zirconia, often confused with zircon, indistinguishable from diamond? Does silver cause allergies? Is 925 the number of perfect silver? Do the reflections of a stone have to be rainbow? These are among the many questions we often receive and their answers.

To check that your jewel of gold genuine need to bite him.

FALSE Pure gold is a very soft metal and, in fact, teeth can easily leave a mark if it is very pure, 24 carats. But biting it is neither a guarantee nor a recommendable test. Furthermore, it can damage your teeth. Not to mention that lead is even softer than gold: a jewel that uses gold-plated lead could easily be mistaken. Furthermore, 18 karat gold is usually used for jewelry, or even less: 14 and even 9 karat. It is gold alloyed with other metals: this makes the gold less malleable and also less expensive. In short, in reality, in addition to gold, we also end up biting other metals such as silver, copper, palladium, nickel.

Biting gold is not a guarantee
Biting gold is not a guarantee

True or false? To find out if a stone is genuine need to look at it in the light.

TRUE Note: the only truly reliable way to identify a gemstone is the opinion of a gemologist or a jeweler, or laboratory tests. That said, here’s a helpful hint to decide whether it is worthwhile to consider the stone of a ring or a necklace. Place the stone against the sunlight and look at the range of colors it produces. The authentic gemstones usually show a rainbow that will be reflected on a nearby surface. Most of the real gems will produce a full range of colors: the stone closer to the eye and tilt it, you should see a rainbow. The stones that produce nothing are often false. We repeat: it is not a final proof: for some stones, especially those very dense, deep coloring or that were not completely polished, the system may not work. But it is a little test should not be overlooked.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show
Examination of a diamond jewel

A cubic zirconia is virtually the same as a diamond, only it costs less.

FALSE What is commonly called a zircon is actually a cubic zirconia: an artificial stone that resembles a diamond. It’s brilliant, but much, much cheaper. In fact, it is just very difficult to distinguish it from a real diamond if you are not an expert. It is a cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide. It is a very hard synthetic material, optically perfect and usually colorless, although it can be made in a variety of different colors. It should not be confused with natural zircon, a stone composed of zirconium silicate, often blue in color. Cubic zirconia is sometimes mistakenly called “cubic zirconium”. Commercial production began in 1976. Its main competitor as a laboratory-created gem is synthetic moissanite.

Cubic zirconia
Cubic zirconia

The silver cause allergies and skin turns green.

FALSE The color is not caused by an allergy is a reaction to the metals used in jewelry and it is often fused with silver, especially when the skin sweats. In short, it indicates that silver is not pure. It is the copper and silver often result in a green halo on the skin. Sterling silver, for example, is 7.5 percent of an alloy with copper. The most common stains left by Sterling Silver Jewelry, in any case, are black and not green. Some sterling silver jewelry are coated with products that help them to maintain the patina, but the coatings may fade over time.

Bracciali in argento a maglia geometrica con charm
Geometric mesh silver bracelets with Pandora charms

The number 925 indicates that the jewelry is real silver.

TRUE In the inner part of a jewel, engraving or stamping the number 925 indicates that the material is, in fact 925, the most common alloy. Of course, the warranty covers: nothing prevents that was affixed to a false jewel, but usually not the case for silver.

In questo orecchino di Giovanni Raspini è ben visibile la punzonatura con il numero 925
In this earring by Giovanni Raspini the hallmark with the number 925 is clearly visible

The Chinese store near your house has rings of jade at a very good price. Can I trust you? They told me that the real jade is cold.

TRUE The temperature is not sufficient proof, but it gives an indication: the jade is poorly conductive. Place it in a sensitive part, for example on the face, it is easy to feel a sensation of cold. Another easy tip is to try to carve the stone with the nail: the true jade is very tough and not show a scratch. The same test can be conducted with a very hot object: the real jade will not show signs of the contact. Finally, authentic jade usually has small imperfections, which are common in nature. A perfect stone should you be born a suspect. In any case, real jade is very expensive.

Anello Palloncino con giada
Palloncino Ring with green jade by Vhernier

The bright Hueb

From the center of Brazil, the Hueb brand has conquered the United States and the Middle East with its lively and refined jewelery
Brazil is one of the richest country of gemstones. It is not surprising that from Brazil come designers also with high-level. Like Cristina and Rogério Hueb, who in 1987 founded their Hueb jewelry brand in the city of Uberaba, in the Brazilian state of Minas Gerais, one of the high-density mining areas. But since 1970 the matriarch, Fádua Hueb, had begun selling jewels to his friends, with a success that gave life to the business.

Orecchini Tribal in oro giallo e diamanti
Tribal earrings in yellow gold and diamonds

Today, Hueb’s flagship store is located in downtown Manhattan, in Madison Avenue. As of 2010, the brand has focused on developing the Middle East market in Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Bahrain, Kuwait and Doha. In 2012, Hueb opened its first Dubai international retail store. Obviously, in Hueb’s jewelery, precious stones are never missing, first the diamonds. Like in the Luminus collection, which combines a glittering design with a lightweight look.

Anello Bahia in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Bahia ring in 18K gold and diamonds
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldi
Ring in 18K white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Collana in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldi
Necklace in 18-karat white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Collana Mirage in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldi
Mirage necklace in 18K white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, tanzaniti e diamanti
Earrings in 18K white gold, tanzanites and diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Earrings in 18K yellow gold and diamonds
Orecchini Labyrinth in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldi
Labyrinth earrings in 18K white gold, diamonds and emeralds

Everything about labradorite




Can you recognize labradorite? Yet it is a stone widely used for bijoux and jewelry. Here’s what you need to know about labradorite

When asked if you like Labradorite it is not a reference to the yellow or black dogs who are famous for their water rescue skills. Labrador, in this case, is the place (in Canada) where at the end of the eighteenth century this stone was discovered which is part of the very common group of feldspar, successfully used in jewelry. As with all stones, there is someone who attributes miraculous properties to labradorite. Everyone is free to believe it …

Anello con diamanti taglio brillante, labradorite grigia, granati, tsavoriti, topazi blu e zaffiri arancioni
Anello con diamanti taglio brillante, labradorite grigia, granati, tsavoriti, topazi blu e zaffiri arancioni

Features. Labradorite has the particularity of possessing a play of colors with a metallic reflection, often changing between blue and green. In some rare cases, it can show the full spectrum of colors. There are also colorless, white, gray, gray-black, gray-whitish, yellow, brown, pale green varieties. It is not a very hard stone and the simplest cut in which to bring out the colors is the cabochon, although it is not uncommon to find some other type of cut. As we have mentioned, labradorite can exhibit an iridescent (or schiller) optical effect, which is also known as labradorescence. The term labradorescence was coined by the mineralogist Ove Balthasar Bøggild. From a scientific point of view, labradorizing is the reflection of light from submicroscopic planes oriented in one direction (rarely in two directions). They are planes that never have such a position that they can be expressed by simple indices, and are not directly visible under the microscope.

Where is it. In addition to Labrador, labradorite is also found in Madagascar, Mexico, Russia and the USA. The Finnish variety is called spektrolith.

Orecchini Galaxy con labradorite by Fernando Jorge
Orecchini Galaxy con labradorite by Fernando Jorge

How it is used in jewelry. Labradorite is mainly used for simple cut pendants and pendants, or cut into spheres for necklaces. But there is no shortage of rings that use labradorite, especially in its iridescent version.

How to clean labradorite. Since labradorite is a fairly fragile stone, care must be taken to clean it, avoiding too rough treatments. Water, a drop of detergent and a toothbrush with soft silks are fine. Instead, avoid rubbing the stone with too rough materials. Also pay attention to when you put it back in the drawer: do not place the jewel in contact with other objects that could scratch the stone.

Bracciale con labradorite di Gil Zohar
Bracciale con labradorite di Gil Zohar
Orecchini con labradorite
Orecchini con labradorite by Pippa Small
Bracciale della collezione Etoile Mysterieuse, in argento, labradorite
Elie Top, bracciale della collezione Etoile Mysterieuse, in argento, labradorite
Stephen Dweck, collana con labradorite
Stephen Dweck, collana con labradorite
Orecchini con aquamarina, labradorite, rainbow pietra luna, diamanti non lucidati, oro giallo riciclato
Nak Armstrong, orecchini con aquamarina, labradorite, rainbow pietra luna, diamanti non lucidati, oro giallo riciclato
Anello con topazio blu e labradorite
Jules Kim, anello con topazio blu e labradorite
Federica Rettore, bracciale con labradorite
Federica Rettore, bracciale con labradorite







Dorion Soares’ Dream Gems




High-end jewels, with exceptional gems: they are found in Vitória, a city in Brazil, capital of the State of Espírito Santo, 500 kilometers north of Rio de Janeiro. in the city center is the Dorion Soares boutique. The founder, however, was born in Teófilo Otoni, a city in the state of Minas Gerais, which is also the Brazilian capital of precious stones. A material, precious stones, that he has known since he was a child: his family has a long tradition in the colored gems market. For this reason, his jewels are full of stones such as paraiba tourmalines, rubellites, emeralds, as well as diamonds. He himself combined the gem trade with that of the jeweler.

Anello in oro bianco, con rubellite, diamanti e smeraldi
Anello in oro bianco, con rubellite, diamanti e smeraldi

His rings, necklaces and earrings are unique pieces, with original designs and, above all, of great visual impact. Dorion Soares closely follows the entire production process of the pieces, from the cutting and polishing of the gems to the final finish. The result is jewels that belong to the category of special pieces.
Orecchini in oro rosa con rubellite e diamanti
Orecchini in oro rosa con rubellite e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco, rubellite e rubini
Anello in oro bianco, rubellite e rubini

Collana con pendente in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti
Collana con pendente in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti

Dorion Soares
Dorion Soares
Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi
Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi

Anello in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, tanzanite e tormalina paraiba
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, tanzanite e tormalina paraiba







Only natural gems for Xiao Wang




What could the daughter of a recycled metals trader with a mining grandfather do in life? The fate of Xiao Wang, jewelry designer and founder of her small Maison in New York, was written in her destiny. To these roots we must also add to his confessed passion for manga and pop art. But, in truth, the designer’s story does not end here, because before focusing on jewels, which are also distributed through large online platforms, Xiao Wang was also an actress and model: she also studied fashion design at Fit in New York.

Anello Neptune in oro 18 carati, zaffiro viola e diamanti
Anello Neptune in oro 18 carati, zaffiro viola e diamanti

Xiao Wang’s jewels are made of recycled gold, but another (rather rare) aspect is the rule of using natural colored gemstones, that is, not treated with chemical products, oils or heated to make the color more intense or correct defects. Tourmalines, fancy colored diamonds, emeralds, are therefore offered in the same conditions as they were in the earth, apart form.
Orecchini Galaxy in oro, diamanti, zaffiri
Orecchini Galaxy in oro, diamanti, zaffiri

Anello in oro con zaffiro verde-blu non trattato
Anello in oro con zaffiro verde-blu non trattato
natural color rose cut rustic diamonds and two round natural champagne diamonds
Orecchini in oro con diamanti colorati naturali
Collana Galaxy in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Collana Galaxy in oro 18 carati e diamanti

Anello Galaxy in oro, tormaline, diamanti
Anello Galaxy in oro, tormaline, diamanti

Xiao Wang
Xiao Wang

Anello in oro, zaffiri di diverso colore e diamanti
Anello in oro, zaffiri di diverso colore e diamanti







Gems for Ukraine with Nomad’s




Precious gems to be auctioned for Ukraine. The idea was launched by Nomad’s, a company born in Ukraine, but which now operates in the cutting and trading of precious stones all over the world. Nomad’s started an auction on Ukraine’s Independence Day, August 24, which also marks six months since the invasion of Russian troops. The online auction aims to support the country. Nomad’s will donate the entire proceeds to United24, the support program launched by President Volodymyr Zelenskyy.

L'asta di gemme di Nomad's
L’asta di gemme di Nomad’s

For sale are 13 gems, including a Ukrainian topaz and heliodor beryl from the Volodarsk-Volynskii mine, a pair of 3.63-carat tanzanites, a 10.11-carat blue-green tourmaline and a 72-carat amethyst stone. , 40 carat. Although Nomad’s usually only sells to professional buyers, the company has opened the auction to everyone so everyone can get involved.

Tormalina di Nomad's
Tormalina di Nomad’s
Granato spessartite
Granato spessartite

Rubellite
Rubellite







Gems that look the same




Beware of false friends in jewelry. Or, better, don’t buy stones that have different values, but a similar appearance. Similar, but not the same. Yet, not only authoritative gemologists have fallen into the misunderstanding, but also customers willing to pay figures with many zeros and even crowned heads. Do you want an example? Numerous precious stones belonging to the treasury of Tsar Peter I of Russia, long believed to be rubies, were later classified as rubellite. The same gem, the ruby, also fooled the London royals: the so-called Black Prince Ruby of about 170 carats mounted on the British imperial crown is actually not a ruby, but a spinel, placed next to the Cullinan II diamond, this authentic . In short, stones with the same color and quite similar. But one is worth more than the other.

Al centro della corona il Rubino del Principe Nero, che in realtà è uno spinello
Al centro della corona il Rubino del Principe Nero, che in realtà è uno spinello

Ruby and spinel. Both are red stones, although the spinel can also take on other shades, for example these stones can also be black. Many spinels used in jewelry have a color and clarity very similar to that of ruby ​​and sapphire (two stones that are varieties of corundum). Not only that: spinel is often found in deposits adjacent to those of these two most precious stones. In addition to the deep red spinel, there is also a raspberry-colored variety that is mined in Tanzania.

Spinello di 8 carati
Spinello di 8 carati

Ruby and rubellite. Rubellite is another red stone, which can have an intense hue similar to that of certain rubies. However, it is a variety of tourmaline, a less rare gem than rubies. Rubellite was already known in ancient Roman times and the gem was often confused with garnets and spinels. The great diffusion in the West took place at the beginning of the seventeenth century after the Dutch importation of the rubellite from Sri Lanka. In 1998 a large tourmaline mine was discovered in Nigeria and rubellite invaded jewelers.

Anello con rubino birmano da 8,80 carati e diamanti
Anello con rubino birmano da 8,80 carati e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite

Spinel and taaffeite. Between these two stones it is taaffeite that is rarer and more expensive. Taaffeite is named after its discoverer, the Irish Richard Taaffe, who in 1945 identified it as confused with spinel. Sent to London for analysis, it was identified as a new precious stone, unfortunately very difficult to find. Unlike spinel, taaffeite exhibits the property of double refraction which allows the distinction between these two minerals. It can have different colors, including red, violet and red, which make it very similar to certain varieties of spinel.
Rubellite con tonalità lampone
Rubellite con tonalità lampone

Diamonds and zircons. Attention, let’s not talk about cubic zirconia, which are artificial stones with a very low price and used for pendants and bijoux that cost a few tens of euros or dollars. Real zircons are natural stones. They can have different colors, often found in the blue hue, but there are also colorless zircons like diamonds. Furthermore, zircon has a very high refractive index, lower only than that of diamond, and for this reason it has often been mistaken for the gem it resembles. From a chemical point of view, however, diamonds and zircons are different: the former are made of pure carbon, the latter are nesosilicates.

Zircone taglio brillante
Zircone taglio brillante

Emerald and demantoid garnet. They are both green stones. The demantoid garnet, just like the emerald, takes on the green hue due to the percentage of chromium and iron, which lead to bright green shades or more tending to green-yellow, even green tending to blue. Another variety of garnet, tsavorite, also has a green hue that can be mistaken for emerald. In fact, many jewelers combine the two stones on the same piece of jewelry to lower the cost.

Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti
Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti by Tenzo
Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino
Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino
Bracciale Serpente in titanio, tsavorite, onice, lacca
Bracciale Serpente in titanio, tsavorite, onice, lacca

Topaz, quartz, aquamarine. Sometimes white topaz or topaz with faint yellow hues is mistaken for smoky or citrine quartz. Obviously a simple quartz costs less than topaz. In the blue hue, on the other hand, a pale-colored topaz can be mistaken for an aquamarine. The value of the two stones, however, is different.

Pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri
Vanessa Martinelli, pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri
Collezione Petra, collana in bronzo con topazio giallo by Gaia Caramazza
Collezione Petra, collana in bronzo con topazio giallo by Gaia Caramazza
Anello con topazio e zaffiri blu
Anello con topazio e zaffiri blu

Anello in oro bianco con grande acquamarina
Anello in oro bianco con grande acquamarina







Thomas Frieden, from Switzerland with love (for gems)

//




Since 1898 Frieden, in Thun, in the green canton of Emmental, Switzerland, has specialized in colored precious stones, diamonds and unique handmade jewels. Today Thomas Frieden, a graduate of Gia, and Expert SGG, and René Lauper, also a gemologist with the same studies, coordinate the company. The Maison was founded by Thomas Frieden’s grandfather, Emil, initially to produce silver jewelry suitable for popular costumes.

Anello in oro bianco, zaffiro blu, diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, zaffiro blu, diamanti

At the beginning of the 20th century, the magpie, a bird that loves shiny objects, was chosen as Frieden’s trademark and is still part of the company logo today and guarantees the quality of the jewels. Around 1930, the sons of Emil, Eugene and William, created the first designs of 18-karat gold jewelry. In 1954, Frieden was among the founding members of the Basel Jewelery Show’s pavilion and gradually, the next generation of Frieden Heinz and Thomas built a production and wholesale company, supplier of hundreds of retail jewelers. Among other things, the company was one of the founders of what was Baselworld.
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiro Padparadscha
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiro Padparadscha

But the company also has its own jewelry brand, Thomas Frieden, which offers high-end collections, with precious stones and a modern design. The Feuille Divine collection, for example, is inspired by vaguely art deco floral motifs, but also designs that are also found in the jewels of traditional Swiss costumes. Or the Rainbow collection, which uses natural color sapphires (particularly rare) from the Pink Valley mine in Madagascar and includes earrings, bracelets, rings and necklaces decorated with the shades of the rainbow.

Anello in oro bianco, pavé di diamanti, smeraldo
Anello in oro bianco, pavé di diamanti, smeraldo
Orecchini con zaffiri purple e diamanti
Orecchini con zaffiri purple e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, morganite
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, morganite
Orecchini in oro bianco, zaffiri di diversi colori, diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco, zaffiri di diversi colori, diamanti

Orecchini in oro bianco, ametista, diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco, ametista, diamanti







Perhaps you are in possession of one of these five rare gems





Maybe you have a ring with a rare stone on your finger: grandidierite, hessonite, jeremejevite, dumortierite and taafeite. They are gems that are not easily found. Often these stones are used in jewelry, but they are not all the same and, above all, have a different value. Let’s see, therefore, the characteristics of these five stones: grandidierite, hessonite, jeremejevite, dumortierite and taafeite.

Anello in argento con granato
Anello in argento con granato hessonite

But with a premise: if you searched for one of these stones on Google, you will certainly have found dozens of sites that consider these minerals as if they had magical properties. Don’t believe a word in what they write. They are fake news, lies. The magical properties of minerals are only found in Harry Potter books or the like, do not think that a stone can cure or have even the slightest influence on your health or your psyche. Luckily. On the other hand, they are beautiful stones: isn’t that enough?

Anelli con gemme di Bulgari
Anelli con gemme di Bulgari

More generally, these five stones are part of the inanimate world: there are over 4,000 minerals on earth, many of which are very unlikely to see up close. And they often cost a lot, although not as much as the red diamond, which holds the price per carat record.

Grandidierite verde-blu
Grandidierite verde-blu

Grandidierite. It is a fairly rare green-blue, yellow-blue or blue-green color gem. Grandidierite was first discovered in Sri Lanka and is named after the French explorer and naturalist Alfred Grandidier (1836-1921). It was Grandidier who in 1902, in Madagascar, where most of these stones are mined today, was the first to publish the description. However, there are few grandidierite stones that can be cut and used for jewelry. According to Wikipedia, there are only two dozen stones of this type in the world that have been cut as precious gems. And, it seems, they are very expensive: more than $ 30,000 a carat. Grandidierite is also a fairly hard stone: 7.5 on the Mohs scale, like garnet.

Hessonite tagliata ovale
Hessonite tagliata ovale

Hessonite. It is a variety of garnet, also called cinnamon stone for its reddish yellow color. It is also found in Euroopa, in the Western Alps. Hessonite is a common variety of the grossular, a species of calcium aluminum that is part of the group of garnets. The name derives from ancient Greek: hesson means lower. But it does not refer to beauty, as to the fact that it is a type of garnet less hard than the others. Hessonite has, in fact, a hardness similar to that of quartz (about 7 on the mohs scale). This gemstone is found in Sri Lanka and India, Brazil and California.

Dumortierite montata su un anello
Dumortierite montata su un anello

Dumortierite. It is a mineral that takes its name from the French paleontologist Eugene Dumortier (1803-1873). The color ranges from blue to colorless, up to pale green, sometimes violet. It is considered to be a blue quartz, which ranges from around 7 to 8 on the Mohs scale. This stone can be completely opaque, or transparent, as if it were an ice blue crystal.

Jeremejevite bianco naturale non trattato
Jeremejevite bianco naturale non trattato

Jeremejevite. It is a mineral found for the first time in the Adun-Chilon mountains, in Siberia, in 1883. It has a hardness similar to quartz, from 6.5 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, and is therefore usable for the creation of jewelry. The hue can range from blue to almost completely colorless. Jeremejevite is quite expensive: it is valued at around $ 2,000 per carat.

Taafeite montata su un anello con diamanti
Taafeite montata su un anello con diamanti

Taaffeite. It is one of the most expensive minerals used in jewelry: it is valued at 35,000 per carat. It is a very rare mineral and often mistaken for spinel. It was recently discovered in 1945. Dublin (Ireland), where it had already been cut and polished. But it was (incorrectly) labeled as spinel: only after a thorough gemological examination was it considered a different mineral. The main difference between spinel and taafeite, in fact, is the double refraction that this stone has. The gem is found in alluvial deposits within Sri Lanka and Tanzania.

Anello in argento e dumortierite
Anello in argento e dumortierite
Orecchini pendenti con opale di fuoco, granato hessonite, smalto
Alice Cicolini, orecchini pendenti con opale di fuoco, granato hessonite, smalto







Diamonds? I’ll explain how to avoid bad purchases




Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires: which is their value? How to recognize them? Some people buy them to make up for something, someone to love, for others is a safe haven investment. Whatever the motivation, the opinion of an expert is crucial. Mainly because when it comes to diamonds, there are parameters which are a kind of list of basis for the listing, but for colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires the matter is not simple. What to be careful and what criteria adopted for the selection, is explained by Pio Visconti, Italian Gemological Institute lecturer, consultant of many regional entity and owner of the Gemological Centre based in Valenza. The proof that it is a famous gemologist, lies in the fact that his skill is cited as a guarantee in the auction catalogs, in case of its certification of the jewel. «How to evaluate a stone? If you were to buy a Rolex goes from the authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?», says in this interview with Gioiellis.com .

Pio Visconti in tenuta da golf
Pio Visconti in tenuta da golf

Question. Which among the famous four C carat, color, clarity and  cut, it is more important when choosing a diamond?Answer. The criterion that must prevail, in my opinion, is cut. Of course weight, color and clarity are important, but because spending a stone IF 40 points and 70 points maybe a Vs2 is quite similar, the fact remains that when the diamond is set must shine on the frame, it must be a mountain of light, as the ancients said, and this can only be achieved with a good cut.

Fedi eternity in diamanti
Fedi eternity in diamanti

Q. But those who are not in the industry how can recognize a good job? They only rely on their aesthetic sense?

A. In the certificate are visible the numbers that refer to the values ​​of the upper part, for example 57 %, and the height of the crown 14%. To the customer does not say anything and that is why beside is written the analyst’s judgment: excellent, good, average, as proportions or as accuracy. Ultimately, I’d recommend a diamond cut-out great, because the other criteria are linked to the price.

Q. What do you do if the certificate does not exist?

A. I do have a question: if you were to buy a Rolex goes from authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?

Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi
Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi

Q. Many well-known brands are keen to highlight the exclusive use of certified diamonds, but there is the risk of receiving the certificate of another gem?

A. Anything can happen, but ruining his reputation for a non-transparent behavior for little gems of value is not worth it, especially since it takes very little to turn into a business catastrophe. In cases of very rare stones, the diamond is sealed with his certificate inside, even in the last decade is increasingly the request of  engraving the certificate number on the girdle of the stone itself.

Q. The race to the certification also depends on the remarkable technological developments in producing synthetic diamonds that are derived from carbon yes, but made ​​in a laboratory, and on the increasing of the number of natural stones modified by man to make them look more beautiful. The Gemological Institute of America (Gia), has even developed a 3D software to mask false. Does it work?

A. It is one more tool, but alone is not enough. The job of the gemologist is to identify the authenticity of the stone with a suitable instrumentation. In addition, there is a price list of the maximum for each of the 4 C, but the precise value is determined by supply and demand. Traders can even evaluate the stone without even seeing her, precisely because the certificate is authentic. Things however, is terribly complicated with colored stones: no certifying agency in the world is able to identify parameters in a serious manner that may suggest the value of an emerald, a ruby and a sapphire. And for precious stones is even worse.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show
Esame di un gioiello com diamante

Q. It is said that the origin of the gems will determine the quality. It is true that the Burmese rubies are the most beautiful, as well as Colombian emeralds need to be?

A. It is a simplification: it is known that a Burmese ruby ​​usually has the characteristics of exceptional color because it is bright red, shiny, without saturation of dark tone or purple, almost the shade of the Ferrari cars to be understood. This does not mean that similar stones can not be found even in deposits of other countries, but they are certainly rarer. For example, those thai have excellent transparency, but also a purplish tinge, or a very small saturation blue. The same applies to emeralds: some exemplar, magnificent for color and transparency, the typical characteristics of beryl Colombians, were discovered in Brazil. Sapphires of Kasmhir are of a incomparable blue, but rare, while those of Ceylon are lighter but warmer tinge and, yet, those of Siam are of a very intense shade.

D. If the origin does not guarantee the quality, what about the cut?

A. The colored stones have most complicated crystal systems than diamonds, what matters is a good symmetry and uniformity color view from above, because you will never get this profile. For this reason, a cut not perfectly centered is acceptable in emeralds, rubies and sapphires. On the contrary, it is unacceptable in a diamond.

Q. And it always comes back to cutting …

A. Make the most of both the weight and the color of the gem depends on the skill of the cutter: Australian sapphires are very dark with a greenish overtones and therefore unloved, they are usually sliced ​​thin enough to avoid accentuating the gloom. Instead, those from Ceylon with very nice shades, but not so intense, have a much larger pavilion to enhance the color.

Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms
Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms

Q. But then the criterion of choice for these stones is the color?

A. Yes, it must be as pure as possible, reflect the idea of ​​green or red or blue we have. Obviously, I do not see inclusions with the naked eye, maybe you can help me with a diopter glasses or two, because imperfections will lower the value. And if you happen to want to do some shopping while traveling, before you buy a stone better go before a certifying agency of the place.

Anello Margot con zaffiro taglio pera e diamanti
Anello Margot con zaffiro taglio pera e diamanti

Q. What are the most common counterfeits and the most economically harmful? We often hear about emeralds “No Oil ” as a sign of authenticity. Is also true for rubies and sapphires?

A. Of all the treatments mentioned is that most harmless and also the oldest: Plinius mentions in his writings that make for the most beautiful emeralds was enough to soak them in the oil. The micro-fractures resin impregnated: yes those who are serious. For sapphires the most resounding method is thermo-diffusion, which tinged with blue a natural corundum completely colorless and reduces the value one-tenth. The outcome? A gem from 70 euro including treatment, may also be assessed 1,200 Euros. While the roots of ruby, so named because opaque, are rubies of very low quality, that with a very sophisticated technique, receive infiltration glass. Are generally lead to increase the effect, in order to make the rubies completely transparent. So, a 4 -carat stone of the cost to trade effortlessly exceed 100 dollars, has the same appearance of one evaluated a 5 thousand dollars.

Q. So the certification agency guarantees the authenticity and origin of the product?

A. Yes, it checks whether it is natural or synthetic , in the first case, it has undergone treatment. Thanks to the inclusions, which are the traces of the rock in which the rock was formed, it is possible to trace the geographical area. Value there is a very wide gap related to trade, fashion, personal perception.

Pietre di colore: zaffiro, rubino, rubellite e zaffiro giallo
Pietre di colore: zaffiro, rubino, rubellite e zaffiro giallo







The fair gems of Debra Navarro

/




Her curriculum includes the Graduate Gemologist at the Gemological Institute of America and the Bachelor of Arts (BA) in Speech Communication and Rhetoric. With these experiences, Debra Navarro works in Wichita, a small town in Kansas, in the middle of the United States. The jewelry company that bears her name was founded in 2015. But the life and mission of the designer does not stop at the creation of earrings and rings with large precious stones. In fact, her activity is also directed towards charity initiatives.

Anello Gee in oro e spessartite
Anello Gee in oro e spessartite

And this attitude of helping others is intertwined with the passion for precious stones. Curiously, it is the effect of a documentary called Sharing the Rough, which tells the story of a precious stone. Debra Navarro therefore felt the need to get to know the history and life of those who work in the mines looking for gems in East Africa up close. A journey that changed her life. And that is reflected in her work, with the choice of enhancing the beauty of uncut or roughly shaped stones.
Bracciale con cinque tormaline verdi, due tormaline arancioni, due granati spessartite, due granati  grezzi, due granati rodoliti, due spinelli rosa, un'acquamarina
Bracciale con cinque tormaline verdi, due tormaline arancioni, due granati spessartite, due granati grezzi, due granati rodoliti, due spinelli rosa, un’acquamarina

Not only that: the designer has promoted a non-profit organization to support mining communities, called Gem Legacy. The association supports education, vocational training and local economies in East African mining communities, supporting children, education and entrepreneurship. One hundred percent of the donations go directly to the communities where the gems are extracted.
Anello Zawadi con scapolite
Anello Zawadi con scapolite

Anello Zawadi con tormalina verde
Anello Zawadi con tormalina verde
Orecchini in oro, lava, diamanti
Orecchini in oro, lava, diamanti
Orecchini Hamisi in oro, tormalina verde
Orecchini Hamisi in oro, tormalina verde

Orecchini Rachel in oro, granato, diamanti, tormalina
Orecchini Rachel in oro, granato, diamanti, tormalina







Jewels with Dvani

//




The precious jewels of Dvani, an American Maison founded by three Indian brothers half a century ago ♦

Precious American Indians. In the sense of families originating from India who imported the passion for great gems, for great jewels, for the great gold in the United States. Over time this network has expanded, as shown by the history of A & D Gem, one of the leading importers of colored stones in the United States, which has been working with jewelers and retailers for almost half a century.
Founded by the Kordvani brothers, Abe, David and Johnny, in 1969, A & D Gem quickly emerged among the main sources of precious precious stones from New York, known as the King of emeralds.

Collana con opale e diamanti taglio brillante
Collana con opale e diamanti taglio brillante
Part of this group is the Dvani brand, also from the Kordvani family, created just 50 years ago by the brothers Kordvani, Abe, David and Johnny. As is the tradition of Indian jewelers, it offers rich, colorful collections, but with a design that conforms to Western taste. Diamonds, but also opals and colored stones, are used without saving.

Anello in oro con morganite e diamanti
Anello in oro con morganite e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa con smeraldi e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa con smeraldi e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa con rubini taglio pera e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa con rubini taglio pera e diamanti
Bracciale rigido con diamanti
Bracciale rigido con diamanti
Collana con diamanti
Collana con diamanti

Collana con diamanti bianchi e neri
Collana con diamanti bianchi e neri







The dreamy crystals of JiaJia Jewelry

/


x



Before being cut according to geometric shapes decided by man, the gems of jewels are crystals. So why not keep their original shape? A consideration that Jia-Jia Zhu, who grew up between Shanghai and California, has transformed into her jewelry brand, which offers necklaces and bracelets while maintaining the nature of the stones as much as possible.

Bracciale con zaffiri multicolori e cristallo di quarzo
Bracciale con zaffiri multicolori e cristallo di quarzo

JiaJia Jewelry, however, was born after Jia-Jia Zhu spent 14 years in the retail business in the fashion industry, with retail operations at Issey Miyake and with Gucci Group brands when she was a college student in New York. York. After graduation, she joined the Macy’s purchasing department as a manager and, after a year, Saks Fifth Avenue. After five years, which she describes as “amazing and formative” from Saks Fifth Avenue, she became the purchasing manager of Contemporary Womenswear and Jewelry in Bergdorf Goodman.
Anello in oro rosa, diamanti e quarzo fumé
Anello in oro rosa, diamanti e quarzo fumé

In short, a lot of experience in relationship building, strategic merchandising, creation of exclusive partnerships and products, intuitive analysis of trends and proactive financial planning: she has tripled the growth in the jewelry department by increasing the average prices. But, as often happens, accumulating a lot of work also causes a kind of crisis of rejection. Jia-Jia thus moved to Bali, between healing arts, yoga, meditation and reiki. During her stay, she tells her, during one of her meditations she received “the call” to work with crystals. And in 2020, she launched her own jewelry business, sold online. She now spends training periods in China every year and theorizes extraordinary properties of stones. The important thing, however, is that they are beautiful to wear.

Bracciale con radici di rubino
Bracciale con radici di rubino
Collana con amazonite
Collana con amazonite
Collana in oro con cristallo di quarzo
Collana in oro con cristallo di quarzo
Collana con perle di zaffiri multicolori
Collana con perle di zaffiri multicolori

Collana ain oro rosa con quarzo fumé
Collana ain oro rosa con quarzo fumé







The global gems of Nomad’s




History of Nomad’s, precious stones involved in History, with the initial capital letter. The company is one of the most dynamic in the gem industry and was born in Ukraine after the fall of the Soviet Union. In those years Mikola Kukharuk worked in a company that extracted quartz for optical use. But the company was discarding beryl, topaz and quartz crystals: for the economy of the country’s, at the time, they did not interest.

Granato spessartite di 38 carati
Granato spessartite di 38 carati

So four friends, Mikola, Slavik, Max and Olli, thought of using the discarded semi precious stones. They studied, read, inquired and, over time, moved to Bangkok, one of the world capitals of the precious stones market. The mission of the young Ukrainians also included a life spent from one mine to another, in search of the best gems. A nomadic life. And for this they founded the company with the name of Nomad’s. And after beryl and topaz, the company has expanded its range of action to a wide variety of gems, such as tourmaline, spinel, peridot, aquamarine, garnet and sapphire.
Tormalina rosa di 11,35 carati
Tormalina rosa di 11,35 carati

Over the years Nomad’s has become known for its ability to choose and cut gems, unique pieces that are used in the best jewelry industry. In the meantime, the company has become a tribe of artists, scientists, gemologists, traders and explorers. Nomad does not sell directly to private individuals: it is aimed at jewelers. But if you want to buy a stone to have it mounted on a ring by your jeweler you can use the website and send a request to find out where you can find it.

Tanzanite di 32,89 carati
Tanzanite di 32,89 carati
Rubellite di 20,85 carati
Rubellite di 20,85 carati

Tormalina Erongo Lagoon di 16,51 carati
Tormalina Erongo Lagoon di 16,51 carati







Tamara Comolli with extra-large Mikado

/




Today more than ever there is a need for cheerful colors, such as those proposed by Tamara Comolli. Which is a brand of jewelry linked to the concept of casual, nonconformist, sporty and natural chic, presents several novelties for 2020. For example, the new Mikado necklace, a line of jewels that is one of the most successful ones by the Bavarian designer. The new Mikado necklace highlights the passion for the brand’s colored stones and uses the classic cut of acorn-shaped gems.

Tamara Comolli, collana Mikado
Tamara Comolli, collana Mikado

The concept of easy chic is reflected in the arrangement of the stones which may seem random. It is not. The Mikado necklace is available in two different lengths: short has a Lariat style, with a modern and sophisticated look. The extra-long version becomes a versatile sautoir: it can be worn with a double turn around the neck, or with a Y-shape. And, again, in the longer style. Next to the Mikado necklace with gems of different colors, from blue topaz to green peridot, from carnelian to amethyst, the Maison also presents a version with turquoise and small acorns covered with a pavé of diamonds.

Collana in oro con turchesi e diamanti
Collana in oro con turchesi e diamanti
Collana della collezione Mikado
Collana della collezione Mikado

bracciale milkado

Pendenti Mikado con topazio e pavé di diamanti
Pendenti Mikado con topazio e pavé di diamanti
pendenti mikado
Pendenti della collezione Mikado

Tamara Comolli, a sinistra, con Carolyn Murphy
Tamara Comolli, a sinistra, con Carolyn Murphy







John Dyer’s exclusive cut gems





Look at the citrine cut in the shape of a star by master gemologist John Dyer: it is one of the gems with an exceptional shape proposed by the Michigan expert. Its cuts called with names like StarBrite, Super Trillion or ZigZag have revolutionized the traditionalist market of precious and semi-precious stones.

Citrino con taglio StarBrite da 29,96 carati di John Dyer & Co
Citrino con taglio StarBrite da 29,96 carati di John Dyer & Co

Years ago Dyer received the first prize in the German agreement dedicated to Jewels and precious stones. The judges unanimously gave top marks to a 88.17-carat orange-red citrine stone, which measures 52.6 millimeters in length and 20 mm in width. The theme of the contest was entitled Light My Fire, and Dyer hit the ground.

The American master carver has won nearly 50 awards since 2002: he is considered one of the leading experts and an innovator. The original award-winning gemstone, for example, weighed 335.50 carats, while the final product represents about a quarter of that weight. The cutting process took four days. Dyer is able to enhance the characteristics of a gem with a particularly refined cut, which takes advantage of the brightness produced by the reflections. Examples are some of the stones, which you see on this page, where you can admire the meticulous work of faceting. Among other things, Dyer has also made a video that teaches how to distinguish a well cut stone from a bad quality one. Federico Graglia

Anelli con acquamarina Regal Radiant di John Dyer & Co
Anelli con acquamarina Regal Radiant di John Dyer & Co
Zaffiro del Montana taglio RippleTop
Zaffiro del Montana taglio RippleTop
Anello con morganite Super Trillion d iJohn Dyer & Co
Anello con morganite Super Trillion d iJohn Dyer & Co
Zaffiro rosa taglio StarBrite
Zaffiro rosa taglio StarBrite
Smeraldo da 0,57 carati taglio StarBrite
Smeraldo da 0,57 carati taglio StarBrite
Smeraldo taglio ZigZag
Smeraldo taglio ZigZag