gemme - Page 2

The surprising design of Paolo Costagli

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Not all jewelers have a page on Wikipedia: Paolo Costagli is part of this elite. But that’s not why we talk about it. Rather, the Italian designer and gemologist based in New York has the ability to continue to amaze even after many years of cutting-edge work, as we observed in his booth in the VicenzaOro Design Room.

Bracciale in oro rosa e diamanti
Bracciale in oro rosa e diamanti

Paolo Costagli has chosen the impervious path of difficult things. New geometries, unusual stones, surprising combinations: they are perhaps also the result of a certain exuberance, evidenced by his curriculum. Born in Florence 54 years ago, at 21 he moved to the United States and attended the Gemological Institute of America in Santa Monica, California. Graduated in gemology, he decided to put the teachings into practice. And he went to Muzo, Colombia where the most famous emerald mines are located.
Anelli con citrino, peridoto e ametista
Anelli con citrino, peridoto e ametista

Back in New York, in 1993 he started his business as a jeweler and a vintage pieces trade. Its inspiring gods, however, were designers such as René Boivin, Suzanne Belperron and Raymond Templier. With good results: in 2008 his Brillante bracelet was included in the permanent collection of the Museum of Arts and Design.
Orecchini con ametista
Orecchini con ametista

Anello in oro con pavé di diamanti
Anello in oro con pavé di diamanti
Orecchini con topazi blu
Orecchini con topazi blu
Bracciali in oro rosa e diamanti
Bracciali in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello e collana in oro e diamanti
Anello e collana in oro e diamanti
Orecchini con tormalina rosa e ametista
Orecchini con tormalina rosa e ametista

Anello in oro bianco con acquamarina e morganite
Anello in oro bianco con acquamarina e morganite







Real and false stones, how to recognize them





How to recognize a real stone from a fake? Some tricks are often used for jewels and can deceive those who are not experts. Here’s what to check ♦ ︎

Beware of false stones. But also to those who are half-faked. Perhaps you do not know that the ways to simulate precious stones on jewels are many. Here are some aspects you need to consider.

Analisi di un diamante
Analisi di un diamante

False stones. Plastic and glass are materials often used to simulate precious stones. Technology today allows you to create something in the laboratory that is not distinguishable from stones such as rubies or fossil resins such as amber. Naturally, an expert jeweler or a specialized laboratory can identify whether they are authentic stones or imitations. If you have doubts, ask for an expert advice.

Orecchini oro e ambra
Orecchini in oro e ambra

Artificial stones. Cubic zirconia and synthetic moissanite (there is also the natural one, rather rare) are two of the stones created in the laboratory and which have characteristics similar to authentic gems, such as diamonds. Similar, but not the same. Of course, if you want to sell them, they have a very low value, but at the time of purchase, only a gemologist can distinguish a cubic zirconia, often passed through a zircon, which is instead a natural stone. How to be sure not to be cheated? Simple: a diamond, even a small one, always has a certificate attesting to its characteristics such as transparency, color, clarity and, of course, the carats. Cubic zirconia, no.

Anello con cubic zirconia
Anello con cubic zirconia

Composite stones. One of the trends among jewelers is the proposal to superimpose different stones or materials. It is a way to reduce costs: it consists of a kind of sandwich of different stones: which is more valuable is above, the one that serves to create thickness is below. The goal is to make the stones used on the surface appear larger, adding an imitation or a cheap gem, perhaps in the lower part of the stone, hidden by the setting. This system is less common for transparent stones, while it is more easily used in opaque ones, such as opals or turquoise. Sometimes the authentic stone is just a small layer that is glued onto a less valuable mineral. Another system, on the other hand, concerns transparent stones. To obtain an interesting shade, one expedient is to glue two or three different stones with a special invisible adhesive, so as to make them look like one and transform them into a “precious” stone with a fascinating nuance. The best brands do not hide this choice. But how to avoid cheating? In addition to relying on a brand that enjoys your trust, it is good to carefully observe, perhaps with a lens, the processing of the jewel.

Il diamante composito naturale-artificiale
Il diamante composito naturale-artificiale

Fantasy stones. Another idea of those who do not want to be transparent with those who buy jewelry is to change the name of the stones. If you read that a ring has an “oriental emerald”, for example, know that it is a green sapphire, which is less valuable. Other examples: an “American ruby” is actually a garnet, which is worth much, much less. And the “Australian jade”? It is simple treated quartz. Conclusion: when you read slightly exotic names of stones, which you have never heard, check on Google. Or on Gioiellis.com, of course.

Andreoli, anello con opale rosa
Andreoli, anello con opale (vero) rosa

Reconstituted stones. There are stones that are stabilized or rebuilt, as often happens in turquoise. Stabilization consists in subjecting the stone to a pressure to make it more compact and eliminate the chalky consistency. Furthermore, often turquoise or other soft stones are reconstituted by mixing powder with a binder. In short, they are a kind of pasta, to which dye is often added, to make the color more vivid.

Anello con la cosiddetta giada australiana
Anello con la cosiddetta giada australiana

How to defend yourself. It is not easy to recognize these tricks. A very low price is already an indication that something is wrong: no one will give you for less money a precious stone and the probability that a jeweler offers substantial discounts on an emerald, diamond or ruby ​​is as rare as water in the desert. The certificates, for very expensive stones, are a good start to avoid the purchase of fakes. The opinion of a jeweler who can guarantee the authenticity of a jewel is another element to keep in mind. Finally, greater security can it guaranteed by a expert gemologist. Giulia Netrese



Anello con turchese: solo 6,99 euro da Claire's
Anello con turchese: solo 6,99 euro da Claire’s
Diamante rosa sotto la lente del gemmologo
Diamante rosa sotto la lente del gemmologo







Baselworld starts again with gems and pearls





Baselworld goes up with gems and pearls: a 50% increase in exhibitors is expected ♦ ︎

Baselworld, the big fair dedicated to watchmaking and the world of jewelry, starts with precious stones and pearls. Perhaps with a bit of surprise, in fact, the organizers announced a 50% increase in gem and pearl exhibitors for the next edition, in 2020, which will take place from April 30th to May 5th.

Zaffiri e rubino
Zaffiri e rubino

The increase, explains the company led by Michel Loris-Melikoff, managing director of Baselworld, is the result of the measures taken after consultation with interested parties in the sector, as well as the decision to move from hall 3 to pavilion 2. The new headquarters is more central and allows all exhibitors to be grouped in a single circular space on the same level, on the ground floor, with secure access to natural light through its rotunda. Thanks to a more central integration in the general exhibition plan, direct access from Messeplatz and Hall 1, is optimized for visitor flows: industry professionals, end customers and media.
Perle nere
Perle nere

I would like to take this opportunity to thank the largest international confederation of the jewellery, gemstones and pearls industry (CIBJO) and in particular its president Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri, for actively supporting us in the reorganization of the sector and for allowing us to redeploy the presence of its members to Baselworld.
Michel Loris-Melikoff, managing director of Baselworld

Michel Loris-Melikoff
Michel Loris-Melikoff

The organizers explain that Baselworld has redeveloped these areas to make them much more spacious, at the same time integrating the hospitality areas and reception with bar and lounge ideal for networking. For the next edition of 2020, exhibitors in this sector now have the opportunity to choose whether to build turnkey constructions or build their own stands. A new offer that meets the expectations of exhibitors, combined with pragmatic cost control, now allows a more competitive positioning, for a better return on investment.

Baselworld 2019
Baselworld 2019







The colorful carnival of Vianna

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Gems, colors, surprising combinations: these are the recipe of Vianna Brasil, a Maison that follows carioca’s taste even if it has the flagship store in Florida, in Boca Raton ♦

If you like the gems then you will be attracted by Vianna Brasil: write down if you do not know this name, because it is almost synonymous with precious stones. Most of gold and precious stones in Brazil were found, and I still am, in an area that today constitutes the State of Minas Gerais, words that are in Portuguese means “General Mines”. In this state, four generations ago, the family Vianna started its activities. In short Vianna has become the most specialized manufacturer in Brazil for jewelry with colored stones. The results are collections as expected from a Brazilian jeweler and more experienced in the use of gems: the geometric shapes and color combinations, sometimes surprising but, above all, bright as the famous Brazilian carnival.

Pendenti con topazio e citrino
Pendenti con topazio e citrino

To realize the jewelery, the brand uses a combination of traditional cuts with the exclusive ones: it boasts of being the only company in Brazil with its cutting system, something that allows a higher quality control. The stones used: quartz, blue topaz, amethyst, citrine, green and pink tourmalines, Paraiba tourmaline, morganite, aquamarine, imperial topaz… Matilde de Bounvilles





Orecchini in oro e prasiolite
Orecchini in oro e prasiolite

Orecchini a cerchio con quarzo fumé e nero
Orecchini a cerchio con quarzo fumé e nero
Orecchini in oro bianco e quarzo nero
Orecchini in oro bianco e quarzo nero
Tiara in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e ametiste di diverse sfumature
Tiara in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e ametiste di diverse sfumature
Collezione Malabaris: braccialetto in oro con rodolite, amtesita rosa e quarzo
Collezione Malabaris: braccialetto in oro con rodolite, amtesita rosa e quarzo
Collana in oro con quarzo fumé, nero e diamanti
Collana in oro con quarzo fumé, nero e diamanti
Collezione Pierrot: anelli in oro con ametista rosa, praziolite, quarzo e diamanti
Collezione Pierrot: anelli in oro con ametista rosa, prasiolite, quarzo e diamanti

Orecchini di ametista
Orecchini di ametista







Paul Wild, the gems are free





The extraordinary combinations with the stones designed by Paul Wild for Baselworld 2019 ♦ ︎

Baselworld is not only a great opportunity to observe watches and, above all, magnificent jewels. But without magnificent stones there would not exist much of the magnificent jewels. Here, then, the exceptional stones of Paul Wild, a fixed presence in Baselworld. Unlike other companies specializing in the sale of precious and semi-precious stones, Paul Wild makes his business an art. He interprets the stones, in short, and every year he orders them according to new sources of inspiration, with an ear that listen the influences of fashion. For example, anticipates the German Maison, the shades for spring 2019 are the red and orange shades. But the desire for a life that follows a more natural rhythm remains present. Not to mention the blue color, which is associated with other aspects of life: stability, trust, truth, faith, loyalty, wisdom, trust. From these considerations Paul Wild has composed three key chromatic themes for 2019: Bright Sight of Light, Abundance of Nature, Liaison de Couleurs.

Set con tormaline rosse africane e berillo giallo
Set con tormaline rosse africane e berillo giallo

Bright Sight of Light

This trend is inspired by the Pantone color for 2019, Living Coral. Paul Wild translates the concept with African tourmalines and golden yellow beryl from Brazil. Stones that can make up a necklace, a ring and earrings, in a suite of 71 gems for a total of 176.74 carats. The necklace radiates from a 39.4-carat golden beryl gold cabochon, with four cascading tiers of pear-shaped tourmalines in a mix of sizes and shades, pink to purple. “We chose this theme to express the spirit of Living Coral, which is radiant and joyful,” says CEO, Markus Paul Wild. A 22,01 carat cushioned tourmaline is chosen for the ring and 10 pear-shaped tourmalines in increasing sizes and color saturation are in the layout to match dangling earrings (10.05 total weight in carats).

Tormaline rosse africane
Tormaline rosse africane

Abundance of Nature

Chromatic trends closely aligned with nature have predominantly green and blue hues. Green is the universal symbol of nature, health. Blue is the color of the sky and the sea. With these images, Paul Wild assembled a vivid green-blue Paraiba tourmaline suite from Mozambique, consisting of a cluster ring and earrings totaling 77.32 carats and a teardrop necklace totaling 146.61 carats, with 63 stones in the set. A suite of beryls and tourmalines, 104 pieces for a total of 407.42 carats, is also part of this line. Like the droplets of water on the petals, the necklace, the earrings and the arrangement of the rings includes 195.30 carats of briolettes of aquamarine, 68.09 carats of morganite and 144.03 carats of Afghan tourmaline. A magnificent necklace of 109 pear-shaped Ceylon sapphires includes a total of 154.25 carats, with a range of colors ranging from blue to green to yellow and pink and all other imaginative colors.

Seto con acquamarina e morganite
Seto con acquamarina e morganite

Liaison de Couleurs

The new fashion colors for spring are vivid. Liaison de Couleurs, as the name suggests, combines natural precious stones to create new combinations. “We see this product as something visionary and innovative,” adds Wild. “We have chosen Basel as the best place to debut this innovation. We want to gather feedback from our good customers there to see what they think about colors, cuts and applications to help us move forward with product marketing. ”





Tormaline Paraiba
Tormaline Paraiba

Set con tormaline Paraiba
Set con tormaline Paraiba
Zaffiri multicolori
Zaffiri multicolori

Gemme per Liaison de Couleurs
Gemme per Liaison de Couleurs







New gems for Morellato

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News with new shapes and colors in the Morellato Gemme collection, images and prices ♦ ︎

In 2017 one of the major novelties of Morellato was the Gemma collection. It seems that the new entry was appreciated by the public. So, a year later, here the Gemma collection returns with new models and colors.

Bracciale della collezione Gemma
Bracciale della collezione Gemma

The gems in the Gemma collection are made of 925 silver which can be natural, white or golden with Pvd, ie with a gold film applied to the metal. But the novelty is the new (synthetic) stones used. Last year they were pink, blue, black, green, yellow and white.

Now delicate colors of pearly white, powder pink, and aquamarine blue are added.

Also in this case they have a cabochon cut, they are shiny and semi-transparent. On the other hand, some surfaces have a cubic zirconia pavé. In the earrings, note the small corolla of a flower formed by three hearts that recalls the Morellato logo. Prices: a single pendant 69 euros, while you go up to 119 in the necklace with five gems. Earrings 69 euros, bracelet 89 euros and 49 euros ring. Lavinia Andorno





Anello con pietra color acquamarina
Anello con pietra color acquamarina

Pendente con pietra rosa
Pendente con pietra rosa
Orecchini in argento e pietre nude
Orecchini in argento e pietre nude
Pendente con tre pietre
Pendente con tre pietre
Orecchini con pietre tonalità acquamarina
Orecchini con pietre tonalità acquamarina
Orecchini a pietra singola
Orecchini a pietra singola
Bracciale con pavé di zirconia cubica
Bracciale con pavé di zirconia cubica

Bracciale in argento con pavé di zirconia cubica
Bracciale in argento con pavé di zirconia cubica







Auction of 680 gems

Do you love the gems? You get ready: in September there will be the first in a series of online auctions that will be selling the David Jerome Collection of 680 rare stones. It is a collection that is believed to be one of the largest in Europe. The gems will be sold by the British John Pye Auction, based. The David Jerome Collection includes “some of the rarest and purest rubies in the world, emeralds, tanzanite, sapphires and other precious gems.” It is estimated that the retail value of gemstones exceed 10 million euro. The collection was formed over 40 years, after the initial purchase of a 133-carat tanzanite, which sparked the passion of the owner (that is anonymous) for gemstones. For sale will up stones from Burma, Sri Lanka, Tanzania and Zambia. Every stone has been independently audited for quality and authenticity. The investment in precious stones, on the other hand, is on the rise: just remember stones like sapphire from 392.52 carat “Blue Belle” sold for 17.3 million dollario the Graff Ruby of 8.62 carats per 8.6 million. Next to the stones, they will be auctioned also jewelry, like a ring with pink topaz estimated around 600 thousand euro. The first auction in September, will sell 345 stones.

John Pye Auction
John Pye Auction
Gemme di diverso tipo. È puramente indicativa, non si riferisce all'asta descritta nell'articolo
Gemme di diverso tipo. È puramente indicativa, non si riferisce all’asta descritta nell’articolo

How to buy rubies in Burma

[wzslider] If by chance you are going to organize a tour to Asia, keep in mind that Burma, or Myanmar as it is now called, is the paradise of the ruby. If you want to stock up on gems extracted in the mines of Mogok, which are prized and are considered among the best in the world, Burma is the place. There are also sapphires and water-marine very beautiful. Beware, though: purchases of stones and jewelry in open-air markets, like the Scott Market in Rangoon, are at risk. Even when you release the export certificates (fake) the vendors can sell many stones heated and pressed, made from powdered waste processing and skillfully reconstructed. If you want to be more confident for purchases, you should go at shops owned by the state, although the prices are less convenient. In addition to the gems, you can buy necklaces of precious stones at very competitive prices. Especially if they will not hide in a long negotiation. But as you buy a stone in Burma? Here is a movie that shows how the trading takes place.

Birmania, ora Myanmar
Birmania, ora Myanmar

Important information: a ruby is a red gemstone, a variety of mineral (aluminum oxide), corundum. The red color is caused mainly by the presence of chromium. Its name comes from ruber, Latin for red. Among other things, sapphires are a variety of corundum. The ruby is considered one of the four precious stones, together with the sapphire, emerald and diamond. Prices of rubies are primarily determined by color. The red brighter and more valuable is called “pigeon blood-red,” that is pigeon blood red. After the color, another important aspect is the clarity: the criterion is similar to that used for the diamonds. A pale stone is valued more. But beware: a perfect ruby, without inclusions, may also indicate that the stone has been treated. Cut and carat (weight) are other important factors in determining the price. Cosimo Muzzano