diamante

How narrows or widens a ring

You can tighten a ring, or enlarge it: read when and how you can do it ♦

What to do when the favorite ring has become too narrow or too wide? You can ask at the goldsmith to return the gold eliminated in this operation? Because the cost is so different between one ring and another? Here are six questions and six answers.

1 How do you enlarge a ring?

The goldsmith opens the circumference with a saw very thin. Then he picks up (if it has to tighten) or add a piece of metal similar to that of the ring. With pliers, joins the two pieces. At this point welding the ring and then proceeds with different polishing phase with brushes previously immersed in three different abrasive pastes, up to obtain the desired surface.

Anello da allargare
Ring to enlarge

2 It should be every time added another gold to enlarge a ring?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. If the ring has only need to widen up to less than a quarter of its original size and the metal is often, the jeweler may be able to modify your ring working on a mandrel and using the hammer to jeweler. But it is not likely to occur. Usually the ring is expanded with the addition of a small piece of gold or platinum. The ring is then welded again and polished.

Anello da stringere
Ring to tighten

3 How do you resize more little?

To resize a ring, a small section of the circular band is removed. Then the ring is shaped again and then welded. If there are stones on display, they must be tightened again in the griffe. There is a limit: if the stones can not be tightened there is the risk to falling out from the metal support.

Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili
Cazzaniga Nobili goldsmith workshop

4 You may retrieve the gold deleted when you resize a ring?

The amount of gold that is removed in the reduction process is usually so small that it wouldn’t make sense for a refund. Also, sometimes the ring must be polished and the gold is transformed into a fine powder which is sucked. The reduction of a ring requires a lot of skill: the milligrams of gold to the jeweler who remain, are largely discounted by the price of his labor.

Decisamente da stringere
Definitely to tighten

5 Why is it more expensive to widen or tighten some rings than others?

The cost of labor depends very much on the amount of work and by the size of the ring, on the weight and type of metal. To work the platinum is more expensive than gold, because it takes more heat and more attention. It is usually more expensive also work on rings with stones, that need special care. For example, only diamond, sapphire, ruby can withstand the heat of a welding flame. Other gems or should be removed from the ring, or require the use of a laser, because if they are heated, they burn and are hopelessly ruined. The more work and equipment needed for these rings raise the cost of the operation.

Controllate le misure della dita
Check your finger size

6 The size of the finger is different from store to store. Why?

Rings and fingers are measured with spindles. Between one and the other can be a different calibration and, therefore, may be a different measure of the circumference. The variation is usually between 1/4 and 1/2 of the size. In addition, the fingers can also change size depending on weather conditions (shaking with the cold, the heat swell), or due to the condition of health, or weight, and even the time of day.

What are rose cut diamonds?

The rose cut diamonds is back in fashion. But this type of cutting of the most famous stone in the world has pros and cons. Here is what you need to know before buying a jewel with a rose cut diamond. And, above all, learn about this ancient cut of the most precious and beloved stone. The first question is: what are rose-cut diamonds? If you have any doubts, know that this shape does not actually imitate the appearance of the flower.

Anello con cluster di diamanti rose-cut
Ring with rose-cut diamond cluster

How to recognize the rose cut. The rose cut is a type of diamond processing that was used in the past, in particular in the Georgian era, that is the period of the history of England that goes from the reign of George I to that of George IV, between 1714 and 1830 Rose cut diamonds are often confused with round or round cut diamonds, but the difference is notable. Rose-cut diamonds have a rounded top, but a flat base. The top of the stone features different triangular facets than brilliant cut diamonds. Brilliant cut diamonds have become popular since the late 1800s and manage to make the diamond appear much more sparkling thanks to 57-58 facets. Rose-cut diamonds, on the other hand, have a maximum of 24 facets. Brilliant cut diamonds have a pointed bottom that reflects more light. Rose-cut diamonds, on the other hand, can be brighter, albeit less sparkling.

Anello con diamanti per 15 carati
Sutra Jewels, 15 carat diamond ring, rose cut

The advantage. Rose-cut diamonds weigh less than brilliant-cut ones, as they are less thick (they don’t have a pointed underside). For this reason, for the same carats (i.e. the weight of a stone) they will have a larger surface. In short, they are larger for the same weight. A 1-carat brilliant-cut diamond measures 6.5 millimeters when viewed from above, while a rose-cut diamond of the same weight measures approximately 7.5 millimeters. Not only that: rose cut diamonds can have many different shapes: round, oval, pear, kite, hexagon, square, or they can also be cut into random and irregular shapes. In fact, we must not confuse the cut with the shape of the diamond, which refers to the outline of the stone (rectangular, round, pear-shaped). The cut, on the other hand, refers to aspects such as proportion, facets and polishing.

Anello di alta gioielleria con smeraldi per 6 carati, e diamante rose-cut al centro
High jewelry ring with 6 carats of emeralds and a rose-cut diamond in the center

The classification. Rose-cut diamonds follow the usual classification of other diamonds: the color ranges from D (completely colorless) to Z (brown or yellow shade). Since they sparkle less, rose-cut diamonds are also often used in more accentuated colors such as gray, champagne, dull white, black and yellow. Clarity is also classified as for other diamonds.

La differenza tra un taglio rosa e un taglio brillante
The difference between a pink cut and a brilliant cut

Is it worth buying a rose-cut diamond? Often rose-cut diamonds are offered as a rarity, or as a stylistic choice of the jeweler. It is undoubtedly an easier cut to make and, therefore, faster and less expensive. In India, the rose cut is part of tradition and is still widely used. There are other brands, such as 64Facets of New York that mainly use rose-cut diamonds. Before buying a jewel with rose cut diamonds, however, it is good to evaluate the aesthetic result. The best thing is to compare a jewel with rose cut diamonds to one with more modern cut stones, to see the difference with your own eyes.

Anello con diamante taglio brillante al centro e taglio rosa ai lati by 64Facets
Ring with brilliant cut diamond in the center and rose cut on the sides by 64Facets

Umrao, scent of ancient India

The ancient charm of India of Rajasthan in the traditional jewelry of the Maison Umrao in Jaipur ♦ ︎

The millennial history of India, ancient traditions, legends, rituals, spirituality, folklore, craftsmanship, love for luxury … Put all this in an ancient brass vase together with fragrant incense. The result is Umrao, jeweler of Jaipur, Rajasthan, flag bearer of the tradition of the great Asian country.

Choker tradizionale con diamanti taglio polki
Traditional choker on 24k gold with polki cut diamonds

Its jewels, in addition to a particularly rich and elaborate appearance, are anchored in the Hindu tradition. For example, with jewels that follow the principle of Navaratna: nine stones on a single piece, usually a necklace. Navaratna stones are ruby, diamond, blue sapphire, yellow sapphire, emerald, red coral, pearl, cat’s eye and hessonite: they represent the energies of nine astrological planets. In fact, each stone is considered to be linked to a planet in its alignment and corresponds to a particular chakra. It is a sacred combination recommended in Vedic astrology to promote financial prosperity, professional growth and good health.

In short, if you love traditional India and follow astrological influences, chakras, etc., these jewels are just for you, if you can afford it. By the way: in addition to precious stones, almost always with antique cuts like polki diamonds (used during the Mughal empire), Umrao’s jewels are in pure 24 carat gold, an other traditional choice.

Umrao Jewels was founded Shri Umrao Mal Shah, and now that in Jaipur no geverna plus the maharaja, children and grandchildren continue his work. In addition to the traditional Indian style, the Maison loves to create art pieces in Edwardian, Byzantine, Maghul, art dé and art nouveau styles, often with a fusion of fascinating styles.

Girocollo con rari smeraldi russi color pastello, oro, diamanti
Choker with rare pastel-colored Russian emeralds, gold, diamonds 
Orecchini in oro 24 carati, rubini, diamanti
24 carat gold earrings, rubies, diamonds
Umrao, Navartna necklace
Umrao, Navartna necklace
Collana tradizionale in oro 24 carati, con diamanti a taglio piatto
Traditional necklace in 24k gold, with flat cut diamonds
Tradizionale collana Sath Lada nello stile del Deccan popolare durante il periodo del Nizam Of Hyderabad. Tradizionalmente composta da sette file di perle graduate per dimensioni, infilate su in oro, diamanti non tagliati e pietre preziose
Traditional Sath Lada necklace in the Deccan style popular during the time of the Nizam Of Hyderabad. Traditionally composed of seven rows of pearls graduated in size, strung on gold, uncut diamonds and precious stones

The Silvio Ancora’s Class

Jewelry by Ancora Gioielli, made in his goldsmith workshop in Valenza ♦ ︎

Since 1989 Silvio Ancora (the name is pronounced with the accent on “a”) works in his laboratory in Valenza. Do you know him? Difficult if you are not in the industry, if you do not work for some great brand that has had the opportunity to work with him, if you have not commissioned a custom jewel. Because Silvio Ancora’s peculiarity is to work again as a time, with methods and skills that are part of tradition and are taught on the field.

Anello Dream con rubino, zaffiri e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Dream ring with ruby, sapphires and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

A fairly narrow field, in fact, because the jewels offered by the small Maison are of high-end, with the use of gold and precious stones or precious stones. The style is Italian, classic forms combined with some fancy flying, but without exceeding in extravagance. Here are some examples of his work.

Anello Petals con acquamarina e zaffiri blu. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Petals ring with aquamarine and blue sapphires. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello con quarzo, zaffiri e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with quartz, sapphires and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello in oro bianco con pavé di diamanti e zaffiro blu
White gold ring with pavé diamonds and blue sapphire
Anello in oro bianco, ametista, topazio, quarzo
Ring in white gold, amethyst, topaz, quartz
Orecchini in oro, tormaline, diamanti
Gold earrings, tourmalines, diamonds

How to distinguish between real and synthetic diamond?

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Attention: the number of synthetic diamonds is increasing, which are now even produced by De Beers. Do you know how to recognize laboratory-created diamonds? The first thing to know is…  ♦

How do you know if the diamond in your ring is synthetic? Is it possible to find out if a diamond is real or fake? The answer is: it depends. The difference is not visible to the naked eye, but only with sophisticated instruments. Naturally, a diamond is considered fake only if its origin is not declared. Synthetic diamonds, if they are officially declared as such, cannot be considered fake. Lastly, diamond giant De Beers has also entered the scene, producing synthetic diamonds with a laboratory in Great Britain for jewelery under the Lightbox brand.

Orecchini lab-grown di Lightbox
Lab-grown earrings by Lightbox

The misunderstanding between real and synthetic, however, is a problem for traders: in fact, in case of doubt, for large stones traders turn to gemological institutes. But if the certifications are dubious, large jewelers do not use smaller stones, under 1 carat, to avoid the risk of compromising their reputation. Alberto Osimo, diamond wholesaler and president of the Geci (Gemological Education Certification Institute) of one of the main gem laboratories in Italy, stated this some time ago: «Currently there is only one machine, the Diamond view, produced by Dtc, the Diamond trading company, able to carry out this analysis, which however takes ten minutes and is uneconomical in the case of diamonds of one hundredth of a carat. In fact, it is not convenient to certify and check a stone worth just a few euros when the procedure could cost up to 80 euros per piece.” However, other systems subsequently proposed to analyze diamonds also require long and expensive procedures.
By Ethereal Green Diamond, 34,59 ct. Photo: Johnny (Chak Wan) Leung
By Ethereal Green Diamond, 34,59 ct. Lab-grown diamond. Photo: Johnny (Chak Wan) Leung

A partial solution to the problem comes from another machine created by the Swiss institute Ssef and capable of analyzing even 4 thousand stones in a single hour. So everything is fine? In part: the device only identifies the molecular structure of the object, i.e. it divides them according to type. And, fortunately, only one of these categories is artificially replicable. In short: a synthetic diamond can only be identified with expensive machines and complicated procedures.
Expertise in un laboratorio Tiffany
Expertise in a Tiffany laboratory

But it’s not just synthetic diamonds. Alongside the natural diamond, there are laboratory-created stones on the market, such as cubic zirconia and synthetic moissanite. Which are certified and sold as extremely cheaper alternatives to diamonds which are the result of the thousand-year-old work of the earth.

So, how do you know if your diamond is real or fake?

1 A real diamond is certified. Therefore, a diamond jewel must also have the certificate attesting its purity, color and carats.

2 You can purchase a device to test yourself. A device such as the Professional Diamond Selector I. It is a probe or thermal conductivity meter and can be found on sale on Amazon for a few dollars, serves to distinguish real diamonds from other simulated stones. For example, it finds out whether the stone is, in fact, a crystal or a cubic zirconia. However, he will not be able to find out if the diamond was created in a laboratory.

3 Other tests that you can do at home: drop the diamond into a glass full of water (but this presupposes that it is separated from the jewel). If the gemstone sinks it is a real diamond. If it floats on the surface of the water or just below it, it is false.

4 Breath test: fog the diamond with your breath, as if cleaning the lenses of your glasses. If the water vapor dissolves immediately from the surface, the diamond is more likely to be authentic. Needless to say, it’s a very crude method…

5 Take a magnifying glass. If you see the tiny abbreviation CZ on the stone it means that it is cubic zirconia.

6 A test for strong hearts: heat your diamond on a flame for 40 seconds. Then throw it in a glass of cold water: if it’s real it won’t break. But if it’s a crystal…  We don’t recommend it, if you want to try it’s your risk.

Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio
Control of CVD plasma reactor producing diamonds in De Beers laboratory

Rivière jewelery guide

Rivière and Triple X: Two terms that are sometimes used in jewelery. You want to know what Rivière and Triple X mean? Read here ♦

Some time ago, in New York, in a Bonhams auction, a 51 diamond rivière necklace, rated triple X-cut, was sold for $ 1.2 million. It was been the jewel that has reached the highest price. Each diamond of the necklace was accompanied by a certificate from the Gemological Institute of America. The diamonds in question weigh over 70 carats: in the necklace are joined by a 2.04-carat heart-shaped clip. The stones are mounted in platinum. But do you know what the rivière and triple X definitions mean?

Collana rivière di diamanti di metà XIX secolo
Mid-19th century diamond rivière necklace

Rivière. The term rivière derives from the French word that means river. In jewelry, it indicates a row of stones that are the same size or scale, that is, from larger to gradually smaller. It is also a way to make the most of the stones of different sizes and order them in a geometric pattern. It is a set often used for diamond necklaces, more rarely with other stones. Very fashionable in England during the Georgian period, rivière style necklaces are still popular today.

Collana rivière in stile art déco in oro bianco, tormalina, malachite, onice e diamanti
Boucheron, art deco rivière necklace in white gold, tourmaline, malachite, onyx and diamonds

Rivière necklaces are usually designed without ornaments, to enhance the stones used. But in some cases these necklaces hide a small ring that allow you to add a pendant. There is also a practical reason when it comes to necklaces with stones of different sizes: enhancing the larger ones, placing them on the front of the necklace, makes the jewel more slender. The perspective effect of the stones that become smaller when they approach the nape of the neck also makes the necklace more slender. Finally, it is difficult for a jeweler to have so many stones of the same size and quality. This solves the problem.

Nicole Kidman con una collana rivière in un'immagine di qualche anno fa
Nicole Kidman with a rivière necklace in an image from a few years ago

Triple X. Also known as Triple Ex, it is an informal denomination, mostly in the commerce sector, which means a diamond that has excellent chiselling, symmetry and cutting. The definition is only intended for brilliant cutting diamonds.

Nicole Kidman con una collana rivière in un'immagine di qualche anno fa
Nicole Kidman con una collana rivière in un’immagine di qualche anno fa

Tripla X. Conosciuta anche come «Triple Ex», è una denominazione informale, per lo più nel settore del commercio, che significa un diamante che ha ottima cesellatura, simmetria e taglio. La definizione è destinata solo ai diamanti taglio brillante.

La collana rivière appartenuta a Zsa Zsa Gabor. Stima: 1,2-1,5 milioni di dollari
The rivière necklace that belonged to Zsa Zsa Gabor
Bonhams Riviere necklace
The rivière necklace sold at Bonham’s for $1.2 million
Collana rivière a tre fili
hree-strand rivière necklace
collana cartier
Rivière necklace by Cartier. Sold for $2.8 million

Can an engagement ring be colored?

A ring with a colored gem instead of the classic white diamond? You can.

Perhaps it will be surprising for many, but the engagement ring must not necessarily be linked to the classic white diamond. Mind you: a rim in white gold with a brilliant and fourteenth -century diamond or six rebbi (the Tiffany frame) that block the gem, are fine. Indeed, such a ring has the advantage of being able to be worn on any occasion, with any dress, at any phase of life. It is necessary to know, however, that this type of ring is a fairly recent convention.

1 When do you give an engagement ring as a gift?
2 The 10 etiquette rules for the engagement ring
3 How to choose the engagement ring
4 Engagement ring: 5 things to know
5 Women dissatisfied with the engagement ring
6 Women willing to pay for their engagement ring
7 Colored Engagement Rings

Anello Essentially Color di Picchiotti indossato con tormalina verde, ametista, diamanti
Essentially Color ring by Picchiotti worn with green tourmaline, amethyst, diamonds

The rings that for centuries have accompanied a request for engagement, a commitment for marriage, or simply were a testimony to the love of a man towards a woman, they were not the solitaire. Indeed, more often a colorful gem was chosen, from ruby to sapphire. It was, and it is still, a choice appreciated by women, the more the ring is made with generous size stones.

L'anello di fidanzamanto indossato da Kate Middleton. Era di Lady Diana
The engagement ring worn by Kate Middleton. It was Lady Diana’s

Therefore, it is completely legitimate to give an engagement ring with a precious or semi-predious gem. Just remember Diana Spencer’s famous engagement ring, with a large blue sapphire surrounded by a diamond crown. But it is not the only example of engagement ring with colored gems. Although there are also those who, like Jennifer Lopez, have received a ring with diamond, but of green shades, a very rare color for this type of gem.

L'anello con diamante verde di Jennifer Lopez
Jennifer Lopez’s green diamond ring

However, the choice of an engagement ring with colored gems must be performed carefully, because there is the danger of exaggerating. A ring full of colorful gems, very lively and flashy is not indicated as an engagement ring. Rather, it is what is called a cocktail ring, which suits, precisely, for parties or worldly occasions. An engagement ring, however, will often be worn on several occasions: it will therefore have to be sober, without excess, to be able to combine with any dress, both during moments of leisure, and in the office or during a ceremony.

L'anello con acquamarina indossato da Merghan Markle
Aquamarine ring worn by Meghan Markle
Anello con rubino e diamanti indossato
Ruby and diamond ring worn

William Goldberg and the Ashoka cut

William Goldberg and the rare Ashoka cut diamonds, modeled on one of the oldest and most famous stones in the world ♦ ︎

Once upon a time, and there still is, the very ancient original Ashoka diamond: classified as D (completely colorless), it weighs 41.37 carats. The name is in honor of the Buddhist warrior Ashoka Maurya, who lived two centuries before Christ, and was sold and repurchased twice by Harry Winston. The diamond has fascinated kings and billionaires, but also merchants in love with precious stones, such as William Goldberg, known as Bill, , who passed away in 2003. Many years ago the dealer and jeweler studied each of Ashoka’s facets: from its elegant and elongated shape to the rounded edges. Finally, he managed to understand the secret of that exceptional stone until he patented the cut: but it takes a special rough diamond to become an Ashoka diamond.

Anello con diamante fancy yellow con taglio Ashoka
Ring with fancy yellow diamond with Ashoka cut

Goldberg was born in Brooklyn, New York. He began cutting diamonds in 1948, and then trading high-quality gems. Goldberg & Weiss, with diamond cutter Irving Weiss, was founded in 1952. And in 1973 he founded the William Goldberg Diamond Corporation, in the city’s Diamond District. In 1978 he was elected president of the New York Diamond Dealers Club. He dealt in famous diamonds, including the Queen of Holland diamond, the Premier Rose, the Red Shield diamond and the Pumpkin Diamond. Now William Goldberg is the name of the American Maison run by the heirs, but Ashoka remains a difficult goal, because less than 1% of rough diamonds meet the demanding standards required. All Ashoka diamonds are cut by the masters of William Goldberg. But, of course, William Goldberg doesn’t just offer Ashoka diamond jewelry.

Anello eternity con diamanti taglio Ashoka
Eternity ring with Ashoka cut diamonds
Bracciale rigido con diamanti taglio Ashoka
Rigid bracelet with Ashoka cut diamonds
Anello con diamante taglio Ashoka
Ashoka cut diamond ring
Orecchini pendenti con diamanti taglio Ashoka
Ashoka cut diamond drop earrings

Anello con zaffiro taglio Ashoka
Ashoka cut sapphire ring

William Goldberg il giorno del suo matrimonio con Lili Gordon
William Goldberg on his wedding day to Lili Gordon

How much is your stone worth?

How much are the stones in your jewels worth?

Raise your hand if you don’t have at least one jewel with colored gems and have never wondered how much that stone is really worth. Amethyst or ruby, emerald or citrine, sapphire or moonstone: there are not only diamonds. But how much are colored stones worth? How much is a ruby ​​worth? Or an emerald? Or, again, aquamarine? If you want to know how much the gem you have set on the ring is worth, or in a necklace, earrings or bracelet, read here. We try to explain in a simple way what are the characteristics that determine the value of a colored stone.

Filippo G&G, pietra ametista e di diverso tipo
Filippo G&G, gems of different types

Of course, there is immediately a fairly obvious aspect: in general, the value is determined by how rare a gem is. A ruby, always in principle, has a higher value than a simple citrine quartz. But this is only a starting point. In fact, it is not said that in reality this is the case. Let’s see, instead, what are the criteria that guide the evaluation of a precious or semi-precious stone.

Anelli con pietra di colore by Bulgari
Bulgari gemstone rings

The starting point is that the value of a colored stone depends on several factors, not just one. Hence, the estimated price doesn’t just depend on the weight and volume of a stone. So, as we said, it is not even the type of stone that determines its absolute value. If you have a ring with a sapphire, it is likely to have a value greater than that of a moonstone. Probable, but certainly not. For example, diamonds are also used in industry, since they are the hardest material that exists. And, of course, the diamonds used to cut ceramic tiles are not of the same quality as those found in jewelry. This is to make it clear that the same type of mineral can have very different qualities.

Orecchini in oro, diamanti, gemme colorate
Earrings in gold, diamonds, colored gems

The 4C
As with diamonds, precious colored and semi-precious stones are also valued for the classic 4C: color, clarity, cut (in English cut) and carat weight (which also determines the size). But among these 4C the first is the most important: the color. Of course, let’s talk about colored stones.

Gemme per Liaison de Couleurs
Paul Wild, gems for Liaison de Couleurs

Color
For precious (emerald, ruby ​​and sapphire) or semi-precious (all others) colored stones, the color is assessed with three different criteria: hue (name of color), tone (darkness and brightness) and saturation (vividness) . The relationship between hue, tone and saturation is the most important aspect for evaluating a colored stone. This is why emeralds (or rubies, sapphires, etc.) are not all the same. In general, when a gem has a more saturated color it will also be darker. To obtain a more saturated color, the stones are often subjected to particular processes: for example, they are subjected to intense heat, radiation, or treated with chemicals (not harmful). Natural stones, untreated, have a higher value, obviously with the same appearance and weight.
But if you want to observe what the exact color of your stone is, pay attention to the light source: a light bulb that illuminates with yellow hue, for example, can make your stone appear in a different shade than the natural one.

The duPont Emerald, anello con smeraldo colombiano di 9,11 carati
The duPont Emerald, ring with a 9.11-carat Colombian emerald

Clarity
Usually the stones, some in particular such as emerald, are not as clear as a glass crystal. Clarity measures the degree of internal or surface transparency. Inside the stones there may be inclusions, that is, small imperfections, traces of other minerals that can determine their value. Usually, the fewer inclusions there are, the more the gem has value. But, be careful: if they offer you an absolutely clear emerald, look at it with suspicion. It could be synthetic. In contrast, amethysts are generally free of inclusions. Other stones, on the other hand, are appreciated precisely for their inclusions: for example, the cat’s eye. Or the star sapphire, which has that particular reflection precisely because it has a rather rare inclusion.

Zaffiri e rubino
Blue, pink, yellow and ruby sapphires

Carats (weight)
Size matters. Of course, the color is important, but if the gem is tiny … The weight of the colored stones is indicated in carats. Yes, but what is it equivalent to? Quickly said: a carat is about a fifth of an gram. A gem with higher carats will generally cost more than another smaller, if the quality is equivalent. But the proportion is very different: amethysts are also found in relevant sizes, even over 100 carats and, therefore, the difference between different sizes and weight is relative. Large rubies, on the other hand, are very rare: in proportion, their value with respect to weight will increase more than that of amethyst.

Anello in oro bianco con acquamarina taglio ovale e diamanti
Paolo Costagli, white gold ring with an oval cut aquamarine and diamonds

Cutting
It is not easy for anyone who is not a gemologist to judge whether the cutting of a stone is correct. But you have to know that in evaluating a gem it also matters how it was cut. The light, in fact, will be better reflected and will make a well cut stone brighter. Proportions, symmetry and polishing are the main aspects. On the price of a gem, however, its shape has less influence, if it is one of the classic cuts used, such as brilliant, emerald, shuttles, etc. A good cut can enhance the nuances of a colored gem. An imperfect cut can, on the contrary, depress its beauty. And do not think that the cut is a simple operation performed automatically: each stone is different from the other and a cut that is good for one may not be suitable for a similar one, but not the same.

Anello con rubino birmano a forma di cuscino, di Harry Winston.
Burmese Ruby Cushion Ring by Harry Winston

The country of origin
Last thing to consider: the stone passport matters. There are mines that have a better reputation and average quality than others. And, therefore, in evaluating the stones it is also important to know what the origin is. Burmese rubies are more valuable. The emeralds of Colombia are the most requested, followed by those of Zambia. The now unavailable blue sapphires of Kashmir are the most sought after.

Bracciale con ametista, rubini birmani e diamanti su argento e oro
Bracelet with amethyst, Burmese rubies and diamonds on silver and gold
Citrino con taglio StarBrite da 29,96 carati di John Dyer & Co
29.96 Carat StarBrite Cut Citrine by John Dyer & Co
Anello della collezione Aristocrat, in oro bianco e diamanti, alessandrite taglio brillante
Ring from the Aristocrat collection, in white gold and diamonds, brilliant cut alexandrite
Orecchini in oro bianco, topazio e diamanti
Tamara Comolli, earrings in white gold, topaz and diamonds
Anello con zaffiro star di Ceylon su ceramica orange e grigia
Ring with Ceylon star sapphire on orange and gray ceramic
Anello con zaffiro del Kashmir e diamanti
Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring

How to choose single diamonds earrings

A classic of all time: solitaire diamond earrings, also called single diamonds earrings.

Simple and elegant, they are a jewel that should always be present in your jewelbox. Here’s how to choose diamond earrings. Diamond stud earrings are every woman’s dream, with the glimmer that lights up any face. A fashion started with queens and ladies of the 16th century, which continues on the Red Carpet with Angelina Jolie, Natalie Portman, Scarlett Johansson and Eva Longoria. But, in addition to embellish, diamond studs earrings have another virtue: they can be worn for day to day the day without feeling awkward: although do not go unnoticed these earrings can be discreet. Here some tips for buying best, including a review of the 4 C appropriate to the jewel.

Orecchini di diamante solitario, in oro bianco con chiusura a vite
Solitaire diamond earrings, in white gold with screw closure

Fit

Diamond must sit flat on the lobe and not slant, even slightly, from the ear, otherwise the stone looks down and can’t catch the light. It’s a risk you take with gems over two carats if the earrings are not well designed. Of course, it also depends on the dimension of the ear, but it is crucial that diamond is set in such a way to have the center of gravity back the lobe, in order to have a balanced look.

Orecchini punto luce indossati
Small diamonds earrings worn

Clasp

Butterfly clasps, perfect for smaller earrings, have a drawback: the use is likely to come loose, with the risk of losing the beloved jewel. Safer is the screw back, but also less confortable to put on and remove. There is a third type of back, convex and circular with a special cavities, which blocks the clasp until is pressed to the sides and is therefore the most reliable.

Damiani, orecchino taglio rotondo con chiusura bombata
Damiani, round cut earring with convex closure

Certification

Better to opt for certified stones if it’s diamonds. Basically you buy essentially the gem, the work of the setting is minimal.

The 4 C

Carat It’s important because determines the size and appearance of the earrings. But beware to the differences of the various dimensions to the naked eye: a 2-carat diamond does not seem to be twice the size of a one carat diamond. Not only that, a 0.50-carat stone may appear larger if surrounded by a border of micro-setting diamonds that gives more shine to the ensamble.

Orecchini a bottone Celine, con diamanti
Celine stud earrings, with diamonds

Cut It depends on taste and budget, but round cut is the most popular because with its 57-58 facets reflects more the light, which seems to radiate from the center to the its board and makes the stone more brilliant. Afterwards, as popularity for this kind of jewels, princess and heart cuts. But they required more waste material to obtain the same brightness of the round cut and, therefore, cost more because for equal finished product using larger stones.

Color and clarity Diamonds without inclusions or blemishes are rare and expensive. In the case of diamond studs earrings, it is preferable to give priority to the cut and then the color and then the clarity. Better opt for stones whiter, brighter and then, even if with some internal defect to have the maximum relative value.

Orecchini di diamanti solitario, taglio a cuore
Solitaire diamond earrings, heart cut

Cleaning

Diamonds are a magnet for dust, especially earrings so close to the face and hair, thus more easily in contact with creams and gels. Precisely for this reason must be cleaned at least once a week. Just a little of warm water, mild liquid detergent and a soft brush to make them shine again.

Poche gocce di sapone liquido sono sufficienti
A few drops of liquid soap are enough
Collezione Illusion, orecchini in oro nero 18 carati e diamanti
As29, Illusion collection, earrings in 18k black gold and diamonds
Orecchini con diamanti ognuno del peso di 20,27 carati
Earrings with diamonds each weighing 20.27 carats
Orecchini con diamanti sviluppati in laboratorio Lightbox
Earrings with synthetic diamonds developed in the Lightbox laboratory

The jewelry in 10 steps




The 10 fundamental steps in the history of jewelry that you need to know. The first is… ♦ ︎
Long ago the Financial Times published an article which identified the 10 milestones of jewelery over the past two hundred years or so. The article starts from innovation in diamond cutting, with the introduction of fashion to bright, up to 3D printing. It is interesting the analysis, to don’t forget the history of the jewel.
1 Brilliant Cut
Round or brilliant cut diamonds were introduced at the end of the 17th century, after the brilliance of the stones had become predominant in Baroque jewelry. The brilliant cut developed in the laboratories of Paris, Amsterdam and Antwerp, which produced the precursor of the contemporary cut, which today is the one chosen for 75 percent of the diamonds.

Il diamante da 102 carati taglio brillante
102 carat brilliant cut diamond

2 Electroplating
How do you make gold if you have not? Nothing philosopher’s stone: since 1840 gold and silver are applied using an electrolytic process, which has become a pillar of the production of affordable jewelry. It was the goal of a Birmingham surgeon, John Wright, who developed galvanic baths with potassium cyanide. Wright and his partners George and Henry Elkington, patented electroplating process, allowing you to apply a thin film of gold or silver on a regular jewel of other material , such as steel.

Bracciale in galvanica oro rosa di Swarovski
Rose gold galvanic bracelet by Swarovski

3 Tiffany setting
In 1886 Tiffany invented the most popular ring among women: it elevates the diamond above the ring rim by four or six prongs, instead of being set in the metal. In this way the diamond is seen much more. Since then, the solitaire ring remains alone for a very short time: everyone wants it. Before Tiffany, diamond ring settings were much lower on the finger—the stones were usually set in a gold band or held with shorter prongs, so the stones had a low profile. The Tiffany setting enhances the diamond.

Anello solitario in platino e diamante con il Tiffany Setting
Platinum and diamond solitaire ring with the Tiffany Setting

4 Platinum
At the end of the 19th century, the use of platinum spread, a metal that is more difficult to work with, but much more resistant than gold. Thanks to the new platinum treatment techniques, Cartier can create a refined jewel like the tiara with a garland design. Platinum has a remarkable resistance to corrosion, and does not deform even at high temperatures: it is considered a noble metal which ensures a long life to the jewel.

Orecchini in platino e diamanti
Earrings in platinum and diamonds

5 Cultured pearls
Until the early twentieth century pearls were very rare, because only those produced naturally by oysters could be found. From the Akoya variety, Kokichi Mikimoto has instead managed to obtain man-induced pearls. But it is also thanks to his wife. On July 11, 1893, Mikimoto’s wife examined a basket of freshly caught oysters and saw the first hemispherical cultured pearl as beautiful as a natural pearl. Three years later, in 1896, Mikimoto obtained his first patent for cultured pearls.

Bracciale con tre fili di perle coltivate
Bracelet with three strands of cultured pearls

6 Clip Earrings
In the thirties have spread earrings held by a small spring, as the use of the reaction in the ear hole, considered barbarous (it seems that it is no longer the case now). Clip-on earrings can be worn by everyone, while pierced earrings are reserved for those with pierced ears. In the 1970s, however, pierced ears came back into fashion, and not only that.

Verdura, orecchini clip con la forma di grappolo d'uva, con oro, perle, platino e diamanti
Verdura, clip-on earrings in the shape of a bunch of grapes, with gold, pearls, platinum and diamonds

7 Serti Mystérieux
It is an innovation of Van Cleef & Arpels: it use the technique to placed stones on the jewel without showing claws or other devices to immobilize the individual elements. Thin and invisible rails lead the stone into the desired position. Needless to add that it is not a simple task, though it has since been imitated by many other Maison.

Clip Panache MystОrieux. Serti MystОrieux Vitrail zaffiri colorati, diamanti
Van Cleef & Arpels, Panache MystОrieux clip. Serti MystОrieux Vitrail colored sapphires, diamonds

8 Titanium
In the early sixties he comes in titanium. Even in this case is the technology that has allowed the most innovative jewelers like Jar of work this lightweight and durable metal, which allows you to make jewelry with bold shapes, impossible with more traditional alloys such as those with gold and silver.

Bracciale Calla in titanio e diamanti
Calla bracelet by Vhernier in titanium and diamonds

9 3D Design
For the uninitiated, despite the films of the major brands continue to show artists with pen and colors and draw their own collections, the vast majority of jewelry is designed to the computer. This is due to the introduction, in the eighties, of 3D design, with a software called Cad. It’s a less poetic system of colored pencils, but much more efficient.

Progettazione in 3D dei gioielli
3D jewelry design

10 3D Print
For some years the border is 3D printing. Most initially it was made of plastic, but now you can also use the metal. After designing the jewelry, the path leads to the realization through special printers that instead of churning out the vacation photos, build by subtraction (ie carve the excess material), or by aggregation (adding gold dust or silver, kneaded) for rings, necklaces or bracelets.

Gioielli di platino realizzati con la stampante 3D
Platinum jewelry made with the 3D printer

 

The largest artificial diamond is from India

The technology applied to the diamond industry has produced the largest artificially created gem. This was announced by the Gemological Institute of America, which has cataloged a laboratory-grown diamond of record weight. The gem was produced in a chemical vapor deposition (CVD) process by Ethereal Green Diamond, a company based in Mumbai, India. The man-made diamond presented at the GIA laboratory in Hong Kong weighs 34.59 carats and has an emerald cut. It is the largest lab-grown diamond GIA has ever examined, according to Wuyi Wang, GIA’s vice president of research and development. Alongside the interest in the unusual dimensions of the stone, however, the quality must also be considered.

Un impianto di produzione di diamanti sintetici
A synthetic diamond production plant

The diamond has been graded G color (the best class is D) and VS2 clarity. In the gem there are small inclusions of black graphite inside and others that testify to the growth layers of the diamond. This type of diamond, in fact, is created with an accumulation of special steam inside special machines. Fluorescence examination revealed growth streaks typically seen in diamonds created with the CVD technique. Not only that: there is also a faintly oily or wavy grain in the facet of the surface, a characteristic that occurs in diamonds of this type. So far, the record for lab grown diamonds was held by the 16.41 carat princess cut diamond created by Shanghai Zhengshi Technology and examined in GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory in 2022.

La nuova miniera: l'impianto di produzione in Oregon di diamanti artificiali
Lightbox (De Beers) Man-Made Diamond Oregon Manufacturing Facility

Pay attention to the symmetry of diamonds

Beware about symmetry: the cut of a diamond can enhance or make a less brilliant ring. Here’s how to find out.

While you’re ready to invest part of your savings in a diamond ring, think through how to choose the jewel. Of course, a diamond is forever: for this reason it is worth to make a careful choice. You already know what are the four C. You have already read our guide How to choose the diamond ring and How to choose a diamond. But there is still one thing to know: you must pay attention to symmetry. Yes: a diamond can also be «a bit faulty». In this case it will shine less and have less value in the future.

Il diamante ovale da 88 carati messo all'asta
88 carat oval diamond auctioned by Sotheby’s

What does symmetry?
The symmetry refers to the precision, the shape and arrangement of the diamond facets. The brilliant-cut, for example, has 58 (or 57 if it has not the one on the bottom tip, the culet) that must be perfectly symmetrical: is not simple. We must say that identifying the symmetry is not easy: the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has put 15 years and has studied 38 million diamonds before deciding how to judge the symmetry of a diamond, in particular the round, brilliant-cut. At the end of so much effort it has established the parameters and classification. The symmetry can be Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor.

A sinistra, un diamante con una simmetria classificata come Ottima. A destra, una pietra classificata con simmetria Povera
On the left, a diamond with a symmetry classified as Excellent. On the right, a stone classified with Poor symmetry

Why it is important?

Think about it for a moment: a diamond must be as transparent as possible to let the light filter inside. Then, it must reflect light through its facets. If these aren’t perfectly symmetrical, the sparkle of the light won’t be perfect either. More: the diamond could sparkle very little because the stone is unable to let the light out from inside. Defects of this type, caused by lack of symmetry, are called deviations. Does it happen often? Fortunately no. Once upon a time those who cut stones did everything by hand, in poorly lit environments. Now technology helps not to make mistakes, or almost.

Anello con diamante ovale di 51,60 carati
Ring with oval diamond of 51.60 carats

Here are the degrees of symmetry of the diamond

Excellent. Diamonds with excellent symmetry. They have no deviations and have no incorrect or missing facets.

Very good. Diamonds with symmetry that has a couple of unimportant deviations, such as minimal misalignment or an imperfect facet.

Good. Diamonds with good symmetry, but also some deviations which can affect the brilliance. For example, due to the angle of the pavilion or a missing facet.

Discrete. Diamonds that exhibit various deviations and, consequently, a reduced brilliance. Deviations impair perfect light reflection.

Rare. Poor symmetry and several obvious deviations can make the diamond nearly dull. The causes can be different, such as a non-perfectly centered surface, missing or non-identical facets.

Williamson Pink Star, 11-carat pink diamond
Williamson Pink Star, 11-carat pink diamond

What should you watch?
The images you see are eloquent: the differences in the cut may be minimal, or jump to the eye. The best thing to do is compare different diamonds with the same cut, and in the same light: choose the one that seems to shine better, that you like the most: most likely you will not find a not symmetrical diamond.

On the left, a diamond with Excellent symmetry. Right, good symmetry. The difference is barely visible
On the left, a diamond with Excellent symmetry. Right, good symmetry. The difference is barely visible

At the altar with ititoli




Wedding rings, engagement rings, white gold rings and diamonds are the specialty of brand ititoli ♦

It is the era of specialization, even for jewelry: following this reasoning, the brand ititoli has decided to engage in one form of jewelry, the solitaire. That is, in rings with diamond that, by convention, are donated in most cases for an engagement or for special occasions. Gold (or platinum) and diamond: a simple formula, however, has also been widely used. In short, to be seen must be good.

Anello in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti
Anello in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti

The idea dates back to 1990, when in Valenza, area of ​​Piedmont where bloom dozens of jewelry companies, Aldo and John Ramerini have founded the Maison: ititoli, however, is only the name of the initiative, while their experience in the world of jewelry is much longer. The specialization in engagement rings and wedding also allowed to add innovative features, such as Diamond Xl, a set type which give 70% more light thanks to a special design. Diamond after diamond, to collections were later joined pendants, bracelet and earrings, but all with the classic diamond in the center.

Bracciale di diamanti della collezione XL
Bracciale di diamanti della collezione XL
Anello solitario in oro bianco e diamante
Anello solitario in oro bianco e diamante
Anello in oro bianco e diamante
Anello in oro bianco e diamante
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Pendente della collezione XL
Pendente della collezione XL







Korloff from black to pink




The Luna collection by the Parisian brand Korloff: gold, diamonds and many rounded geometries ♦

Hold a record is a good starting point, even for the jewels: the Parisian brand Korloff can boast of a record not little, that of the largest black diamond in the world, the 88 carat weight, cut with 57 perfect edges. It is insured for $ 37 million. The Korloff Black is the soul and symbol of society and it is showed around the world for decades.

Il diamante nero di 88 carati Karloff
Il diamante nero di 88 carati Karloff

But of course, the Maison also offers a lot of other jewels.

Anyway, it all started in 1978, when Daniel Paillasseur conceived the brand Korloff Paris, inspired in part by the journey of Korloff family Sapojnikov from Russia to France. In the nineteenth century this precious stone belonged for several generations to the Russian family of Karloff-Sapozhnikov. And according to legend, the Karloff Noir brings good luck and prosperity to those who touch it. Apart from the black diamond that has given him fame, the Parisian brand produces high-level jewelry, as well as watches and other luxury products, such as perfumes. Korloff has 50 boutiques around the world.

Anello Korlove in oro rosa  e diamanti neri
Anello Korlove in oro rosa e diamanti neri
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della collezione Eclat, ispirata alla piramide dl Louve
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della collezione Eclat, ispirata alla piramide dl Louve
Orecchini della collezione Eclat in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini della collezione Eclat in oro rosa e diamanti

orecchini soleil
Orecchini Soleil in oro giallo e diamanti

Collezione di alta gioielleria Divine Nature, anello con diamanti
Collezione di alta gioielleria Divine Nature, anello con diamanti

Orecchini in oro rosa con 192 diamanti, per 2,50 carati
Orecchini in oro rosa con 192 diamanti, per 2,50 carati







Ten useful tips before buying a jewel





How to choose a jewel to give or buy for you? Here are ten useful tips for those looking for a diamond or gemstone ring ♦ ︎

When buying a diamond, or rubies, emeralds, sapphires, the advice of an expert is essential. But, in any case, it is better to know more about the characteristics of the stones. If the famous 4 Cs of diamonds carat (carat), color (color), clarity (clarity) and cut (cut), are now known to everyone (and if you don’t know them you can find the explanation in our section To know), here some things to know before entering the jewelry store.

Lo store di Tiffany in piazza Duomo, a Milano
Lo store di Tiffany in piazza Duomo, a Milano

They are not just any advices: they are those elaborated by the Gemological Institute of America (Gia), that is the United States mineralogy research and learning center, the most famous in the world, which also helped create the diamond valuation standard. Its certification is a guarantee in evaluations and transactions. Hence, it is best to follow his advice.
La cassaforte per gioielli Baron
La cassaforte per gioielli Baron

1 Also think about where to store them. Buying a piece of jewelry is easy if you have the necessary money. But a non-trivial and often underestimated aspect concerns your home. Do you have a place, possibly safe, to keep the jewels? If your jewelry investment is high, think about where and how to store your jewelry first. In addition to safety, another important aspect concerns the integrity of the jewelry. Your precious rings, necklaces and bracelets, in fact, can be damaged if they are placed in contact with each other: it is better to always keep them in the box in which they were sold by the jeweler. For example, in addition to diamonds, sapphires are also very hard stones and can scratch other stones they come into contact with. In short, the jewels are best kept separate.
Lo zaffiro birmano Royal Blue non riscaldato di 118,88 carati e l'anello con rubino birmano di 6,41 carati
Lo zaffiro birmano Royal Blue non riscaldato di 118,88 carati e l’anello con rubino birmano di 6,41 carati

2 Green is in fashion. The green color has an advantage, in addition to being the symbol of nature and the environment: emeralds, which have this color, are larger for the same weight. So, if you want to make a good impression, go for emeralds for the same price. Since this mineral has a low density, in fact, a 1 carat emerald will be larger than a diamond of the same weight. In short, the emerald is more voluminous for the same weight.
Anello con smeraldo ottagonale di 8,32 carati
Anello con smeraldo ottagonale di 8,32 carati

3 Size matters. There is nothing worse, if you want to give a ring as a gift, than buying one of the wrong size. The joy of receiving a precious gift turns into disappointment for not being able to wear the jewel. Sure, a ring can be widened or tightened (but not always), but the surprise effect is ruined. So, pay attention to the size of the ring: it is very important that it can be worn easily, without causing discomfort. The ring should slide smoothly down the bottom of the finger, but it shouldn’t be too loose. He must not turn around or slip out of his position. How to know exactly the right ring size? We wrote about it here.
Giovanni Ferraris, anelli Vanity
Giovanni Ferraris, anelli Vanity con perle

4 Decide on a budget. Before buying a ring, it is good to know the maximum price you want to spend. It is an important aspect, because once you enter the jewelry it is better not to have indecision or, worse, to repent immediately after the purchase just made. When you enter the jewelry store, therefore, it is best to immediately explain how much you are willing to spend: this will help the jeweler find the right jewel for your budget.
Madalina Ghenea con una collier della colelzione Vulcania, alta gioielleria Damiani
Madalina Ghenea con una collier della collezione Vulcania, alta gioielleria Damiani

5 The purple color. Do you like strong colors? A ring with a rather large ruby ​​costs a lot. Of course, alternatively you can choose a jewel with spinel, which often has a lower price, but it is always a high cost. An alternative is amethyst, which is purple but is always a rather warm shade. And it costs less. But not all amethysts are the same: the most popular shade of amethyst is the one that tends to purple red, or an intense purple, without brown or bronze shades. The color of the amethyst must be uniform, visible to the naked eye when looking at the stone from above. Otherwise the amethyst may appear too dark in low light conditions.
Anelli a incastro in oro bianco e diamanti (1 carato)
Anelli a incastro in oro bianco e diamanti (1 carato)

6 Diamonds with discount. Diamonds cost a lot, especially if their weight exceeds 1 carat. If you have a lot of money to spend, and don’t think of the ring as a jewel to resell, you can opt for a 0.99 carat diamond or a similar weight: the appearance will be practically identical to that of a 1 carat stone, but the cost will be much lower. In short, a diamond with a discount, because the psychological threshold of 1 carat raises the price a lot. An alternative is to choose a Halo type ring, that is, with many smaller diamonds mounted around a central stone: this crown of small stones serves to increase the brilliance of the central one and helps to keep the price down.
Un esempio di certificato, quello dell'IGI, Istituto Gemmologico Italiano
Un esempio di certificato, quello dell’IGI, Istituto Gemmologico Italiano

7 Ask for the certificate. If you buy a diamond jewel do not forget to ask for the certificate of authenticity of the stones. Unfortunately, anyone who is not an expert and does not turn to a good jeweler risks falling into some trap. For example, a diamond created in the laboratory can be mounted on the ring instead of a diamond, very similar to the natural one, but which costs less. Synthetic stones are many and difficult to distinguish for those who are not experts. Jewelery with an unnatural stone should not be sold in a non-transparent way. And this usually doesn’t happen if the dealer is well known: a fake stone would ruin his reputation. In any case, a certificate of guarantee will indicate the characteristics of the diamond, ie weight and quality.
Analisi di un diamante
Analisi di un diamante

8 Look inside the gems. Diamonds aren’t the only stones imitated by lab-created gems. But how to distinguish them from natural ones? A fairly simple way is to look at them very closely, through a magnifying glass, perhaps the ones that come close to the eye used by jewelers (they can be bought online at a modest price). Natural stones almost always show some inclusions inside them. They are small imperfections which, however, are also a guarantee of their origin. For example, pink or red tourmaline often has multiple inclusions that are visible to the naked eye. A true emerald always has small cracks or inclusions. In short, an imperfect stone has also certainly been extracted from the earth.
Bracciale con rubini burmesi e diamanti
Bracciale con rubini burmesi e diamanti

9 Ask for your passport. If you buy a jewel with a precious stone, find out where it comes from: the place where the gem was extracted also affects the price. For example, a ruby ​​mined in Burma is more valuable than the same type of stone, but which comes from Ceylon. Or, an emerald from Colombia is more expensive than one mined in Mozambique. Of course, the evaluation also depends on the weight and quality of the gem. In any case, the origin has a certain importance in the evaluation, just as it happens for the products that are purchased every day: for the same quality, one brand can have a higher price than another. Marketing magic.
Anelli con pavé di diamanti bianchi, brown e neri
Anelli con pavé di diamanti bianchi, brown e neri

10 Different diamonds. As we said in point 7, if you want to buy a diamond ring, the request for a certificate certifying the origin of the stone is necessary. But, in addition to authenticity, the gemological certificate also guarantees the quality of the diamond. In short, it is a question of understanding the classification according to the four C. For example, colorless diamonds are not always perfectly transparent. There are white diamonds that can have a milky transparency. Or inclusions. Or, more often, have a slightly yellowish color. These diamonds can be used for beautiful jewelry. But their price must also be different.
Shopping in Place Vendôme, Parigi
Shopping in Place Vendôme, Parigi







The pink super diamond stolen in Qatar by a psychic




We have written it many times: be wary of those who say that stones have special powers, magical effects, healthy influences. You may be dealing with not only a cheater, but also a thief. The incredible story of the stolen pink diamond proves it. Unveiled in November by Christie’s as a Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond set in a ring, with impressive VVS1 clarity, weighing 13.15 carats, and an estimate of up to $35 million, it was scheduled to be auctioned December 6 at New York. Instead, he disappeared from the radar. The major auction house did not consider explaining why. But there is a reconstruction that seems incredible.

According to some documents filed in court and discovered for the first time by the Court Watch organization, specialized in the analysis of judicial documents, the diamond was allegedly stolen in Doha, Qatar. The diamond would have been bought by a sheik, rich but somewhat naive. In fact, he lent the diamond to a man who introduced himself as John Lee, who billed himself as an online psychic. An employee of the sheikh then sent to mr. Lee some jewels, including the pink diamond, to “cleanse them of evil spirits.” But the real magic was making the jewels disappear. Don’t laugh, please.

Doha, capitale del Qatar
Doha, capitale del Qatar

Un momento dell'asta di Christie's
Asta da Christie’s

Il diamante rosa rubato in Qatar
Il diamante rosa rubato in Qatar







The blue diamond illuminates Christie’s




Nearly $60 million in jewelry. This is what Christie’s auction of Magnificent Jewels in New York totaled. To be precise, total sales are $58.8 million, with 93% sold per lot and 105% sold above the low estimate. The top lot was a 31.62-carat fancy blue diamond, the largest ever to appear at auction, which sold for $11.8 million. In short, diamonds as an investment are always interesting. Other pieces that earned a six-figure rating include an 86.64-carat diamond pendant necklace that sold for $5.7 million and a 107.46-carat large fancy yellow diamond brooch by Graff that sold for 2.6 million, while an important diamond ring of 51.60 carats was purchased for 2.5 million by the prince of dealers William Goldberg.

Diamante taglio smeraldo Fancy Vivid Yellow, Internally Flawless di 13,75 carati di de Beers
Diamante taglio smeraldo Fancy Vivid Yellow, Internally Flawless di 13,75 carati di de Beers

Other results highlighted by Christie’s: an Art Deco sapphire and diamond pendant sold for 1.4 million, almost ten times its lowest estimate, a pair of heart-shaped colored diamond earrings fetched 1.4 million, more than five times their lowest estimate. Also successfully sold were a Bouquet brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, which belonged to Evita Perón, sold for $195,300, and a Flower Brooch by the same Parisian ruby and emerald Maison, which fetched 1.2 million.

Anello con diamante ovale di 51,60 carati
Anello con diamante ovale di 51,60 carati
Collana di diamanti con un eccezionale diamante taglio pera di colore D da 86,64 carati
Collana di diamanti con un eccezionale diamante taglio pera di colore D da 86,64 carati

Spilla Bouquet con zaffiro retrò, zaffiro colorato e rubino appartenuta a Evita Peron
Spilla Bouquet di Van Cleef & Arpels con zaffiro retrò, zaffiro colorato e rubino appartenuta a Evita Peron

Ciondolo con diamante blu di 31,62 carati
Ciondolo con diamante blu di 31,62 carati







Faraone Casa d’Aste: diamonds and a Cartier bracelet on top




A single diamond not mounted on a ring was the top lot of the sale organized by Faraone Casa d’Aste in Milan. Jewellery, together with watches and luxury goods, totaled a total of 1.2 million euros, approximately 105% of the estimated value. A positive balance, therefore, which added to that of the auction held in May, marks +35% compared to the result of the two auctions in 2021. The protagonist was a 3.41-carat diamond, estimated at 30,000 euros and awarded for 50,000. A pair of brooches with sapphires and diamonds also stands out, sold for 13,000 euros, but with an estimate of 5,000. A solitaire ring in white gold, with a 3.12-carat round brilliant-cut diamond was auctioned for 26,000 against the 18,000 estimate, and a brooch in 9-carat rose gold, but with an octagonal emerald of 12.20 carats, arrived at 12,000 euros against the starting 1,500.

Diamante taglio brillante di 3,41 carati
Diamante taglio brillante di 3,41 carati

Also sold well were a platinum ring with a minor oil Colombian emerald weighing 3.60 carats, surrounded by diamonds (24,000), and a double-strand choker with natural saltwater pearls (27,000), a rigid yellow gold bracelet and white and diamonds (20,000) and a platinum ring signed Sabbadini with a cushion diamond of 8.45 carats, is sold for a value of 78,000 against the 50,000.00 estimate. Finally, a Cartier Chimere Open Bangle in yellow gold that started at 8,000 euros reached 77,000.
Coppia di spille in platino e oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti navette, baguette e tapered per circa 6,80 carati. Al centro zaffiri carrè invisible set per  circa 5,20
Coppia di spille in platino e oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti navette, baguette e tapered per circa 6,80 carati. Al centro zaffiri carrè invisible set per circa 5,20

Open Bangle Chimere di Cartier in oro giallo
Open Bangle Chimere di Cartier in oro giallo
Spilla in oro rosa 9 carati con smeraldo ottagonale di 12,20 carati
Spilla in oro rosa 9 carati con smeraldo ottagonale di 12,20 carati
Anello in platino con smeraldo colombiano minor oil di 3,60 carati
Anello in platino con smeraldo colombiano minor oil di 3,60 carati
Anello con diamanti di 3,12 carati
Anello con diamanti di 3,12 carati

Bracciale rigido in oro giallo e bianco e diamanti
Bracciale rigido in oro giallo e bianco e diamanti







How hard are jewelry stones?




How resistant are the stones of your jewels? Can they be damaged easily?

The hardness of gems is measured by the Mohs scale. The name derives from the German scientist Friedrich Mohs, who conceived it in 1812. The Mohs scale assigns a grade from one to ten to the degree of hardness of the stones. In this way, you can know which ones are more delicate, for example, which scratch or break more often. It is an aspect that is best known to avoid nasty surprises: knowing how hard the stones of your jewels are is also useful for cleaning. For example, an opal is not as strong as a ruby ​​and should be treated with greater delicacy.

Gemme di Filippo G&G
Gemme di Filippo G&G

In short, generally when someone buys a piece of jewelry they don’t ask you if it will be tough enough to withstand occasional bumps. Yet it is a question that is best to ask yourself, especially if the stone is mounted on a ring, a jewel that is more easily subject to contact with other materials. But the same goes for earrings or necklace if these jewels have stones.
Diamante taglio cuscino di Jack Reiss. Il diamante è l'elemento più duro in natura
Diamante taglio cuscino di Jack Reiss. Il diamante è l’elemento più duro in natura

Although we tend to believe that a stone is incredibly more solid than any common object of everyday life, this is not the case. The gems of your jewelry could be fragile stones, at risk of being scratched or even shattered in some unfortunate circumstance. Even the diamond is absolutely not safe from all danger. Fortunately, Mohs took the trouble, almost two centuries ago, to measure the hardness of different minerals, including precious stones. It is therefore possible to know the degree of hardness of the stones with some certainty.
PietraDurezza
Diamante10
Rubino9
Zaffiro9
Alessandrite8.5
Crisoberillo8.5
Topazio8
Spinello8
Smeraldo7,5-8
Andalusite7.5
Hambergite7.5
Acquamarina7,5-8
Goshenite7,5-8
Berillo7,5-8
Morganite7,5-8
Granato demantoide7-7,5
Ametista7
Tormalina7-7,5
Quarzo7
Kunzite7
Citrino7
Danburite7-7,5
Iolite7-7,5
Rubellite7-7,5
Tanzanite6,5-7
Peridoto6,5-7
Granato6,5 - 7,5
Diaspro6,5-7
Axinite6,5-7
Crisoprasio6,5-7
Corallo fossile6,5-7
Agata6,5-7
Spessartite6,5 - 7,5
Occhio di tigre6,5-7
Zircone6,5 - 7,5
Diasporo6,5-7
Eliotropio6,5-7
Tsavorite6,5 - 7,5
Onice6,5-7
Corniola6,5-7
Calcedonio6,5-7
Rhodolite6,5 - 7,5
Sillimanite6,5 - 7,5
Labradorite6 - 6.5
Pietra Luna6 - 6.5
Giadeite, giada nefrite6 - 6.5
Amazzonite6 - 6.5
Opale5.5 - 6.5
Ematite5.5 - 6.5
Lapislazzuli05-giu
Turchese05-giu
Ossidiana5-5,5
Malachite3,5-4
Corallo03-apr
Perla2,5-4,5
ChrysocollaDi 2 - 4
Ambra2-2,5

The Mohs scale was initially based on ten readily available minerals. This ranking was subsequently completed and is now an important indicator for those who buy a stone. But be careful: it is a special scale. For example, a corundum (such as ruby) is twice as hard as a topaz, but a diamond is nearly four times harder than a corundum. What you see on this page is a table that summarizes the hardness of the main stones. At the head is the diamond. Immediately after there are rubies and sapphires. Then … Federico Graglia
Acquamarina e tormalina rosa di Nomads
Acquamarina e tormalina rosa di Nomads

Set di spinelli di diverse sfumature di Paul Wild
Set con spinelli di diverse sfumature di Paul Wild







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