cabochon Archives | gioiellis.com

What is a bezel?

Published on September 17, 2023

Bracciale rigido Diamond Torque, incastonato con un diamante a forma di cuore internamente impeccabile di colore D di 50,05 carati

Do you really know what a bezel means and what it is? And how is a ring with a stone set made? Here are the things you need to know about bezel rings.

Things to know if you like jewelry and you are not a jeweler. Do you know what a bezel is? What is a set with stone? Do you have a ring with a stone set in a bezel? If you are curious about what a jewels setting is, read here.

Anello Taglio Smeraldo, con berillo taglio smeraldo da 14,04 ct e pavé di cristallo di rocca, incastonato in oro giallo — Boucheron, ring, with 14.04 ct emerald-cut beryl and rock crystal pavé, set in yellow gold

Hold the stones. The bezel, or casing, is a mount that serves to hold a stone in place, especially if it has a cabochon cut, that is, with a faceless cut, often hemispherical. The bezel consists of a metal protection that fixes the circumference of the stone. It can be formed by a cavity around which turns a thin metal border that folds over the contour of the gem or, in open frames, from small jaws, which hold the stone in several places. The bezel is positioned in the visible, upper part of the ring and frames the stone which, in this way, remains still. There are different techniques of setting, but all have in common the metal fixing, in silver or gold, which is welded and surrounds the stone. The gem may be more or less positioned in the hollow of the metal. Jewelers today tend to adjust the metal to the size of the stone to be set, following the external shape.

Anello in oro giallo con zircone verde — Yellow gold ring with green zircon set

The height of the edge. The setting can vary in the size of the metal belt that wraps the stone, which can be more or less enveloping, usually about 0.5 millimeters. In the case of diamonds, for example, we tend to keep the metal as thin as possible. The advantage of a setting like a bezel rather than a claw one is that the stone is more protected in this way and is less likely to be damaged. Once the stone is placed in the hollow and surrounded with the metal band, the bezel can be welded to the ring band. The base, in some cases, is eliminated to leave room for the only band that stops the stone.

Clip Panache MystОrieux. Serti MystОrieux Vitrail zaffiri colorati, diamanti — Van Cleef & Arpels, Panache Mysterieux clip. Serti Mysterieux Vitrail colored sapphires, diamonds

When the setting is not seen. There is also an invisible setting. It is a particular technique used to fix precious stones so that the metal support structures are not visible. In French this technique is called serti mystérieux (mysterious setting), and was introduced by Alfred Langlois in 1930. Later, the two French jewelers Salomon Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef, founders of Van Cleef & Arpels, elaborated with Langlois the original idea until requesting the patent of the new casing. Cartier also patented a technique for an invisible bezel, called the invisible serti, but without major developments. Van Cleef & Arpels, instead, continues to use the mystérieux serti in his jewels.

Anello Verde, con smeraldo di 14,90 carati, lacca — Green ring, with 14.90 carat emerald, lacquer

Boghossian, anello con zaffiro di Cylon incastonato in calcedonio intarsiato — Boghossian, Cylon sapphire ring set in inlaid chalcedony

Anello con smeraldo colombiano e diamanti — Grima, ring with Colombian emerald and diamonds with an unusual setting

Anello con rubino e granati, in ceramica, lacca, oro giallo — Ring with ruby and garnets, in ceramic, lacquer, yellow gold

Anello in argento placcato oro con ametista — Gold plated silver ring with amethyst

Anello in oro,giallo e giada — Ring in yellow gold and jade

The classical Greece of Christina Soubli

Published on May 17, 2022

Showroom/bracciale/COLLANE

Orecchini in oro 22 carati ispirati all'antico strumento musicale greco, la lira

The proposals by Christina Soubli, a Greek designer who combines tradition with modern jewelry trends ♦

Greece, a holiday destination, home of classical philosophy and, unfortunately, in recent years has also been at the center of the difficult geopolitical chronicle. But Christina Soubli, a Greek designer, daughter of art, thinks of the Hellas of the gods, of mythology and Olympus, but also of the simple and immediate design of the Nordic countries, as in the Basic Collection, up to the baroque shapes which remember aesthetics Oriental. One of the jewelry collections, in fact, is called Oriental Circles. The small round shapes that make up the jewels are in 18 carat gold, to which are added semi-precious stones with cabochon cut. This collection consists of rings, pendants, bracelets and earrings, for a very pleasant harvest for the eyes.

Christina Soubli was trained at the Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design, where she experimented with different materials, shapes and techniques. For his creations he mainly uses 18 carat gold, which is an almost pure metal. He has received several awards, including Worshipful Company of Goldsmith’s Award of Jewelery. Christina Soubli’s jewels can be purchased in her atelier in Athens, or online.

Bracciale in oro 18 carati realizzato con la tecnica della filigrana

Collana in oro con acquamarina e citrini

Orecchini pendenti con teschio, oro e quarzo

Pendente a forma di uovo in bronzo smaltato, oro e argento

Pendente a forma di ape con zaffiro e topazio blu

New gems from Sofragem

Published on May 11, 2022

Rings/Showroom

Anello in oro 18 carati, zaffiri e smeraldi cabochon

Sofragem has earned a name in the world of jewelry: it is at the same time a manufacturer for third parties and a brand that offers its own collections. He works in one of the world centers of jewelry, Bangkok, where many large Western Maisons, in Europe and in the USA, also have all or part of the creation of high jewelery collections carried out. Sofragem has a special place among these production companies: 160 goldsmiths work there, some of whom have specialized in France.

Much of Sofragem’s production is centered on gems. But not only. The company’s production, in addition to being one of the main manufacturers in the sector and which it produces on behalf of third parties, also includes collections of jewels with its own brand. These are jewels with a different style, which sometimes follow that of the best-known brands, without however being copies. In short, jewels range from the classic style, with diamonds and precious stones, to a more modern genre, where the setting technique becomes in some cases an example of goldsmith virtuosity.

Anello in oro 18 carati, diamanti e quarzo fumé

Anello in oro con rubini, zaffiri e diamanti

Bracciale in oro rosa, con zaffiri orange, gialli e tormalina

Anello in oro rosa 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldi

Anello in oro rosa 18 carati, diamanti e ametista

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e peridoto

Daria de Koning, family colors

Published on October 3, 2021

Showroom/bracciale/Rings

Orecchini della collezione Nomos, con sunstone bianco dell'Oregon, diaspro rosso, oro 18 carati

Daria de Koning, how to paint with jewelery creation ♦ ︎
Dutch blood, born in New York, design with the spirit of the Mississippi. Daria de Koning has a rather original mix behind her. She is the daughter of a Dutch artist and a fifth generation American mother, and also her was a painter: Elaine Marie Catherine Fried. And more, he is his father who is very famous: Willem de Kooning, a painter who disappeared in 1997. But she has preferred to shorten her last name by eliminating a “o”. She tells in her bio, she traveled to the Netherlands, one of the modern design pole, when she was young. But she also studied art and graphics at the University of Washington, St. Louis, South USA and, as Daria said, American formal education has influenced both his personality and his design.

She has shown her passion for gems, rocks and colors since she was a little girl. When she was 11, already she had a collection of stones. The degree at the Gemological of America Institute, combined with metalworking lessons, has convinced the designer to turn her passion into work. Today her jewelery is also sold through the online channel Moda Operandi. She loves colored stones, especially if they are cut to cabochon: she likes smooth surfaces, round volumes, decided shades, lively stones and tending to the same tonality. As she would painting. One of the latest creations is the Nomos collection, which celebrates the orderly and graphic nature of precious stones born from the wild and chaotic planet in formation.

Orecchini con malachite, azzurrite, oro 18 carati

Anello con malachite, azzurrite, oro 18 carati

Orecchini con granato rosso, diaspro di Sonora, oro 18 carati

Bracciale con perle quadrate di acquamarina, tormalina nera burattata, legno fossilizzato

Orecchini con tormalina rosa, celestobarite, oro giallo

Preziosa with small balls

Published on October 12, 2020

Argento

Preziosa Jewelry was born in Milan in 2015 under the sign of the pleasure of traveling: the first collection was inspired by famous places in the world, cities or countries, all stylized on rings, bracelets and necklaces. Five years later, the pandemic is certainly not an incentive to travel. The brand, therefore, has decided to propose a series of rings that have a more abstract shape: they are composed of hemispheres.

Anello in argento placcato oro con quarzo rosa cabochon — Anello in argento placcato oro con resina rosa e scaglie in oro

The rings of the Pallini (little spot) collection are in natural silver, 18-karat rose gold plated or 24-karat yellow gold. All have a cabochon stone set, in some cases also in synthetic resin with the addition of gold flakes, or turquoise, agate in different colors and quartz.

Preziosa Jewelry was founded by Silvia Preziosa (it’s a karma that obviously comes from the name). After the faculty of Fashion Design at the Milan Polytechnic, she moved to London and then to New York, where she attended the Parsons School of Design, before founding her own jewelry brand.

Anello in argento placcato oro e agata viola

Anello in argento placcato oro e quarzo rosa

Anello in argento con resina cabochon e scaglie d'oro — Anello in argento con resina cabochon e scaglie d’oro

Anello in argento placcato oro e turchese

New Boutons for Tamara Comolli

Published on May 11, 2020

Showroom

New Boutons from Tamara Comolli, the German and international easy chic brand. The Bouton collection, one of the most appreciated, is enriched with new jewels, including earrings and bracelets. Let’s start with the first ones: Tamara Comolli introduces a larger version of earrings than the previous model, with cabochon stones that match the rings of the same collection. Bouton 2 Cabochons earrings have two different sizes of stones, with a silhouette embellished with a white diamond. The new earrings are available in Cashmere, Camel, Sand and Sky versions. The Indian Summer version offers particular color combinations with a further touch given by the yellow of the sapphires in the center.

The collection also includes long earrings made with a mix of cabochons, diamonds and sapphires. The design, in this case, is combined with the Mikado Flamenco bracelet, another must of the Maison. A complete novelty are, however, the bracelets, with the same nuance of stones: they can be worn individually or as part of a creative combination, either with a leather cord or with other bracelets of the Bavarian brand.

Dreamboule rings multiply by three

Published on February 7, 2020

Rings/Showroom

Anello della linea Bubble (16 millimetri di diametro)

New models, new dimensions, new objectives: the number of the most original and precious rings increases, those of Dreamboule. As its inventor, Beniamino Crocco explains, the goal has been to further widen the number of fans of the brand born in Milan. In addition to the maxi rings of 36 and 28 mm in diameter, Dreamboule now offers the Bubble Line, with a diameter of 16 mm.

The technique is always the same: 18-karat gold, a large scratch-resistant sapphire glass cabochon with a special liquid inside, the Dream Solution, which fills the hemisphere. It is a bubble inspired by those sold in tourist resorts, the boule de neige, with the snow falling when the souvenir is shaken. Even inside the rings there are different scenarios. Very precious. Words, animals, landscapes found in the transparent cabochon are made with top quality gems. Instead of artificial snow, specks of pure gold float. And all the diamonds of the Dremboule rings are VSI type, color G, next to stones such as sapphires, ruby root, jade, rutilated quartz, mother of pearl, lava stone.

Anello della linea Superb da 36 millimetri

Certainly the Dreamboule rings are differents from the ordinary jewels, made thanks to Beniamino Crocco’s experience in the watchmaking world: his father, Carlo Crocco, was the founder of the Hublot brand, then sold to Lvmh in 2008. And he himself he has worked extensively in the sector of hands and dials. It is no coincidence that the Maison’s jewels are made in Switzerland: it is precisely the technology used for haute horlogerie that allows the birth of Dreamboule jewels.

Anello Snake in oro bianco, diamanti e perla di Tahiti

Dettaglio di un cabochon con diamanti neri e smeraldi

Anello della linea Classic (28 millimetri)

I colori tropicali di Quetzal

Published on April 21, 2014

Showroom

Due immagini inedite dell’anello Quetzal di Sicis, presentato nella scorsa edizione di Baselworld. Si tratta di un anello in oro giallo 18 k, con diamanti, una pietra «blue eagle eye», cioè pietersite a cabochon, titanio e pavé in nano-mosaico. Per chi non lo sapesse, il quetzals è un tipo di uccelli colorati che si trova nelle foreste e nei boschi tropicali del Centroamerica, come Messico e Guatemala. Sono uccelli dalle piume variopinte, come l’anello di Sicis. Un pezzo unico la cui lavorazione ha richiesto 30 giorni, molto di più di quanto è rimasto in vetrina: appena esposto è stato acquistato da una facoltosa signora russa.M.d.B.

The tropical colors of Quetzal

Two new images of the ring Quetzal of Sicis, presented at the last edition of Baselworld. It is a 18k yellow gold ring with diamonds, a stone Blue eagle eye, that is pietersite, cabochon shape, titanium and nano-mosaic paved. For the uninitiated, the quetzals is a type of colorful bird that is found in tropical forests of Central America, such as Mexico and Guatemala. They are birds with colored feathers, like the ring of Sicis. A single piece whose processing has required 30 days, much more than was left in the window: just exhibited was purchased by a wealthy Russian lady.

Les couleurs tropicales de Quetzal

Deux nouvelles images de la bague Quetzal Sicis, présenté lors de la dernière édition de Baselworld. Il s’agit d’une bague en or jaune 18 carats avec des diamants, «bleu aigle œil» cabochon (c’est pietersite), de titane et de nano-pavée en mosaïque. Pour les non initiés, le quetzal est un type d’oiseau coloré que l’on trouve dans les forêts et les forêts tropicales d’Amérique centrale, comme le Mexique et le Guatemala. Ce sont des oiseaux avec des plumes colorées, comme la bague de Sicis. Une pièce unique dont le traitement a nécessité 30 jours, beaucoup plus que ce qui resté à gauche dans la fenêtre: juste exposé a été acheté par une dame riche de Russie.

Die tropischen Farben Quetzal

Zwei neue Bilder von der Ring Quetzal Sicis, präsentierte auf der letzten Ausgabe der Baselworld. Es ist ein 18 Karat Gelbgoldring mit Diamanten, einen Stein Blue eagle eye: eine Pietersit Cabochon, Titan und Nano-Mosaik ist gepflastert. Für die Uneingeweihten, ist der Quetzal eine Art von bunten Vogel, der in Wäldern zu finden ist und tropischen Wäldern von Mittelamerika, wie Mexiko und Guatemala. Sie sind Vögel mit bunten Federn, wie der Ring von Sicis. Ein einziges Stück Hat Wessen Verarbeitung benötigt 30 Tage, viel mehr als das, was in dem Fenster übrig: nur Ausgestellt wurde von einer wohlhabenden russischen Dame erworben.

Тропические цвета Кетцаль

Два новых изображения кольцевых Quetzal Sicis, представленный на последнем издании Baselworld. Это 18k желтое золото кольцо с бриллиантами, камень ‘голубой орлиным взором », то есть pietersite кабошон, титана и нано-покрытием в мозаике. Для непосвященных, кетсалей является одним из видов красочными птицами, который находится в лесах и тропические леса Центральной Америки, такие как Мексика и Гватемала. Они птицы с цветными перьями, как кольца Sicis. Один кусок Имеет Чья обработки требуется 30 дней, гораздо больше, чем то, что осталось в окне: просто Выставленные был куплен богатой русской леди.

Los colores tropicales del Quetzal

Dos nuevas imágenes de los anillos Quetzal Sicis, presentados en la pasada edición de Baselworld. Se trata de un anillo de oro 18k amarillo con diamantes, Blue eagle eye (Pietersite) cabochon, titanio y nano-mosaicos pavimentada. Para los no iniciados, el quetzal es un tipo de pájaro colorido que se encuentra en los bosques y los bosques tropicales de América Central, como México y Guatemala. Son aves con plumas de colores, como el anillo de Sicis. Una sola pieza cuya elaboración ha necesitado 30 días, mucho mas de lo que se quedo en escaparate: se acababa de poner en exhibición que fue comprado por una dama rusa rica.