All About Citrine




If you like colored stones, you certainly love citrine. It is one of the most fashionable stones and, not least, among the most cheerful. Here’s all you need to know about citrine, it’s the other November stone along with yellow topaz ♦

The name. Citron in French is the fruit of the lemon, word derived from the Latin Citrus. The fruit is yellow as, indeed, the color of the stone. But in ancient times the citrine was considered less poetically a yellow quartz (and indeed from a scientific point of view is a yellow quartz): the term citrine took over only after 1556. Even less appeal is the definition of “merchant stone” because at one time it was believed he would bring luck in business. Unfortunately, it has remained a mere supposition.

Derek Katzenbach, citrino intagliato
Derek Katzenbach, citrino intagliato

It was also considered a magic stone, like many others. In the Middle Ages some had even spread the rumor that it was effective to protect against the plague, from snake venom from spider bites and even from the evil people. Likely, though, that the citrine powers did not worked with those who have put about this nonsense.

Anello in oro giallo, diamanti e citrini
Gringoire, anello in oro giallo, diamanti e citrino

Color. As the name indicates, the citrine is yellow. It is practically impossible without technical means, to distinguish it from a topaz, to the naked eye, but the difference is the hardness. In truth, the stones that are set on jewels are heated citrine: the stone in its natural state has a rather pale color. When heated, however, it takes on a shade amber, almost orange. Rather than citrine it should call orangine, is not it?

Andrew Grima, anello in oro con citrino e diamanti, 1969
Andrew Grima, anello in oro con citrino e diamanti, 1969

Provenance. Many citrines come from the Brazilian mines, but if you go on the hunt for citrine you can also try in Madagascar, Zambia, Namibia, in the Urals in Russia. Often they are found where there are amethysts. It also there is a citrine record of 2,258 carats, guarded at the Smithsonian in Washington. In general, however, on jewelry the stones are below 25 carats.

Anello in oro con citrino e zaffiri
Leyla Abdollahi, anello in oro con citrino e zaffiri

How to clean them. Citrine jewels can be cleaned by immersing the jewel in a cup of warm water, adding a couple of drops of detergent. After about ten minutes, gently rub the jewel with a toothbrush with soft bristles, then rinse.

Anello con citrino cesellato e diamanti
Anello con citrino cesellato e diamanti
Anello in oro con citrino intagliato a mano e zaffiri rosa
Naomi Sarna, anello in oro con citrino intagliato a mano e zaffiri rosa
Anello Cuscino con citrino
Anello Cuscino con citrino
Split Petra Ring, con citrino grezzo e levigato. Prezzo: 1280 dollari
Split Petra Ring, con citrino grezzo e levigato. Prezzo: 1280 dollari
Braccialetto in oro con citrini e diamanti
Braccialetto in oro con citrini e diamanti
Il citrino brasiliano vincitore del premio
Il citrino brasiliano
Anello con citrino centrale, topazi e-tsavorriti
Anello con citrino centrale, topazi e-tsavorriti
La collana di citrini disegnata da Robert Procop
La collana di citrini disegnata da Robert Procop







Alexandrite, chameleon stone





Alexandrite, a stone that changes color and is therefore highly sought after. And it is also one of the stones of the month of June. Did you know? ♦ ︎

Belle de jour, Belle de nuit: no, it is not Catherine Deneuve, but a rare gem, alexandrite, also known as chameleon stone because it changes color depending on which it is exposed. Green grass under the sun, it becomes purple (raspberry for the most magnificent examples) near a lamp or a candle, thanks to the inclusions of chromium and iron, elements that are respectively even in rubies and in sapphires. Unfortunately, the alexandrite is not often found and not even in high quality. From the point of view of gemology this stone is a variety of chrysoberyl and the few copies they end up in the hands of collectors of precious stones, rather than being used in jewelry. When alexandrite is used for rings, necklaces or earrings, are usually small gems that once worked barely exceed the carat.

Anello con diamanti e alessandrite
Anello con diamanti e alessandrite

They cost like diamonds. Sure, there are exceptions, which are evaluated as a diamond of the same size. For example, the stones that have cat eye inclusions over 4 carats. The purest and most transparent gems are cut faceted, those with inclusions to the naked eye instead are mounted as cabochons.

Alessandrite: di giorno ha un colore blu petrolio, di sera i riflessi sono rossi
Alessandrite: di giorno ha un colore blu petrolio, di sera i riflessi sono rossi

History. The alexandrite was discovered in Russia, in the Urals, in the mid-nineteenth century, but today they are also found in Sri Lanka, Zimbabwe, Brazil, Burma, USA, India, Madagascar, Tanzania, Tasmania. The largest faceted alexandrite of 21 century weighing 66 carats and belongs to the Smithsonian Institute in Washington.

Beware of fakes. In circulation there are many imitations of the same gem or of synthetic corundum and spinels with alexandrite’s properties. More transparent than the natural forms, they also have different hues: change from red violet to purple blue.

Anello con alessandrite: nell'immagine, i due colori che assume secondo la luce che attraversa la pietra
Anello con alessandrite: nell’immagine, i due colori che assume secondo il tipo di luce che attraversa la pietra
Anelli in oro giallo, diamanti, alessandrite
Anelli in oro giallo, diamanti, alessandrite
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e alessandrite
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e alessandrite
Anello con alessandrite
Anello con alessandrite
Alessandrite: verde di giorno, rossa di sera
Alessandrite: verde di giorno, rossa di sera
L'esemplare di alessandrite esposto allo Smithsonian Institute di Washington
L’esemplare di alessandrite esposto allo Smithsonian Institute di Washington
Anello in oro e diamanti con alessandrite taglio cuscino sfaccettata di 7, 81 carati
Anello in oro e diamanti con alessandrite taglio cuscino sfaccettata di 7, 81 carati
Anelli con alessandrini sintetiche
Anelli con alessandrini sintetiche
Alex. Anello in oro bianco, alessandrite, tsavorite, diamanti bianchi
Alex. Anello in oro bianco, alessandrite, tsavorite, diamanti bianchi







Everything about tourmaline




All you want to know about the most fashionable stone: the tourmaline. Green, blue or red, is the gem of the moment. Here is a quick tour guide ♦

Often confused with other stones, tourmaline is characterized by a wide range of hues and shades. No coincidence that the name comes from a Sinhalese word turmali, used to indicate carnelian and stones of different colors from Sri Lanka. The main varieties of tourmaline used in jewelry is one that defines the classification of the mineral as Elbaite, which is also a synonym for green tourmalines. Much used Rubellite also, which color are from red to pink, and the rare Indicolite, from a deep blue and exceptional luster.

Pomellato, anello Pom Pom con tormaline verde foresta, verde menta e diamanti
Pomellato, anello Pom Pom con tormaline verde foresta, verde menta e diamanti

Features Tourmaline is a dichroic stone: each crystal, usually very long, has two colors (one dark and one light), that change as intensity depending on the angle of observation. Do you know where the tourmaline name comes from? It comes from the Sinhalese word thoramalli or tōra-molli. It is a word that is applied to a group of stones found in Sri Lanka. In fact this stone arrived in Europe with the ships of the Dutch East India Company to satisfy the demand for colored gems.

Chopard, anello Red Carpet 2013 con tormalina turchese Paraiba
Chopard, anello Red Carpet 2013 con tormalina Paraiba

Color There are many and with different shades. The most sought stones are the Paraiba tourmalines, homonymous field in Brazil, although the name is used for gems from different backgrounds such as Mozambique and Nigeria, when they have this range of shades: Caribbean blue, peacock blue, neon blue, copper green, neon aquamarine, azure, turquoise generated by the traces of chromium. A trace element, chromium, which gives its name to a deep green stones that are found in Tanzania, although the color in this case is given by the presence of vanadium. A great blue saturation, brightness and purity is the rare tourmaline Indicolite. There are, then, the Rubellite with its shades ranging from pink to vivid red, tourmaline Watermelon or watermelon, true wonder of nature, because two-tone: the center is red, surrounded by an outer layer of green, or vice versa.

Harry Winston, anello pezzo unico con tormalina Paraiba taglio cabochon e diamanti
Harry Winston, anello pezzo unico con tormalina Paraiba taglio cabochon e diamanti

How to clean the tourmaline. The tourmaline is a fairly hard stone: it is between 7 and 7.5 degrees on the Mohs scale (the diamond is at 10). It is a hardness considered right for use in jewelry. But be careful not to leave the tourmaline too close to a source of heat for a long time: it could alter it and even break. But the stone can be safely cleaned with hot water and a drop of soap, while there are disagreements on the use of ultrasound and steam cleaners.

Tormalina Elbaite proveniente dalla miniera Cruziero di Santa Maria do Suaçuí, nella regione Minas Gerais in Brasile
Tormalina Elbaite proveniente dalla miniera Cruziero di Santa Maria do Suaçuí, nella regione Minas Gerais in Brasile

Source The most important deposits are in Afghanistan, Pakistan, Russia, Burma, Sri Lanka, and United States (California and Maine). Many African countries have recently become major producers of tourmaline, particularly Madagascar, Namibia, Mozambique, Tanzania, Nigeria and Malawi.

Anello con tormalina fucsia e diamanti
Anello con tormalina fucsia e diamanti

Evaluation is not a simple thing due the amount of varieties and colors. The first thing to do is to examine the stone in sunlight: a green gem under an incandescent bulb may appear almost black, while a pink or red appears gray or brown. If, even under artificial light, keeps its natural tones, is likely to be a stone with a fine color. But beware, the primary color should be predominant for 70-75%. The rest of percentage is obviously a hue, ie a secondary color which, however, may change depending on the illumination, natural or artificial. Moreover, there is no general rule on dimensions and prices: some tourmalines are found only in small sizes and are used as beads in a very low cost, while others are more available in 10 or more carats. The evaluation also takes account of its clarity, which has three degrees defined by the Gia (Gemological Institute of America, the most famous center of research and teaching mineralogy of the United States): if the green tourmaline is usually classified type I, that means, has a slight inclusion visible to the naked eye, blue, orange, yellow, multi-color (except watermelon varieties) and some pink specimens stones have minor inclusions and are grade II, while the red ones , pink and watermelon belong to the third category III where noticeable inclusions are expect ed as it appears from the photos below. Tourmaline is normally not subjected to heat treatment and if this happens does not affect its value.

Anello con tormalina cabochon su oro bianco, pavé di tormaline e diamanti
Martin Katz, anello con tormalina cabochon su oro bianco, pavé di tormaline e diamanti

Anello con tormalina e oro 18 carati
Irene Neuwirthm, anello con tormalina e oro 18 carati
Anello con tormalina menta e tanzanite su oro bianco
Paolo Costagli, anello con tormalina menta e tanzanite su oro bianco
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti e tormalina cabochon
Elke Berr, anello in oro giallo, diamanti e tormalina verde cabochon

Tormalina watermelon. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Tormalina watermelon. Copyright: gioiellis.com







All about the rock crystal




What you need to know about the rock crystal, a very flexible gem, which can turn a jewel into a masterpiece ♦ ︎

It seems valuable, but it is only when it becomes a jewel: the rock crystal is a mineral that, when used for rings and necklaces, buys a certain value. But his nobility depends on treatment and, above all, from jewelry design. According to Wikipedia, the hyaline quartz, commonly also called rock crystal, it is a completely colorless variety of quartz. Usually it is perfectly transparent, with glass-like appearance and the artificial crystal, from which you can easily distinguish, as all other minerals, for the feeling of cold when you wise with his tongue. So if you want to know if a jewel is really made with rock crystal, you can try to give him a little lick.

Great Maison like Picchiotti, Chanel or Boucheron use rock crystal for high jewelery.

Anello con leone scolpito in cristallo di rocca, oro bianco e diamante
Chanel, anello con leone scolpito in cristallo di rocca, oro bianco e diamante

Hyaline quartz, which is widespread all over the world, contains a great variety of inclusions. Unlike milky quartz, rich in various elements, rock crystal is completely transparent. For centuries it has also been considered a material with magical powers: this mineral was considered a stone with hypnotic and divinatory abilities, capable of inducing trance and for these reasons it was used in occultism. Today, however, it is used for jewelry, especially by designers who love very cold, minimal shapes. There are also colored varieties of quartz such as citrine, amethyst, smoky quartz, milky quartz, pink, which however have a completely different appearance. In any case, there are many jewelers who have decided to use rock crystal, with very different results.

Anello in oro bianco con cristallo di rocca e pavé di diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con cristallo di rocca e pavé di diamanti di Boucheron

Does rock crystal have benefits on the body and spirit? Absolutely not, except offering the satisfaction of wearing a beautiful piece of jewelry and, therefore, it can probably put you in a good mood. There is no need to believe in supernatural properties to appreciate a beautiful gem, wear it without asking yourself too many questions (and above all without listening to those who invent medieval nonsense).

Orecchini con cristallo di rocca intagliato di Suzanne Belperron e René Boivin
Orecchini con cristallo di rocca intagliato di Suzanne Belperron e René Boivin

How do you clean rock crystal? Rock crystal is a rather soft mineral, so much so that it is often carved to take on the most diverse shapes. For this reason, care must be taken not to bump it or put it in contact with other jewels with harder stones, such as diamonds or emeralds, which could scratch or scratch the rock crystal. Cleaning, on the other hand, is very simple: soak the jewel in water with a scant drop of neutral liquid soap. Soak for ten minutes and then gently scrub the jewel with a soft toothbrush. Then, rinse off.

Anello in oro con cristallo di rocca e madreperla
Anello in oro con cristallo di rocca e madreperla di Ippolita
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, agata gialla e cristallo di rocca
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, agata gialla e cristallo di rocca by Vhernier
Anello con cristallo di rocca intagliato e tanzanite sugarloaf
Anello con cristallo di rocca intagliato e tanzanite sugarloaf di Ajoomal
Orecchini di Mr. Lieou in cristallo di rocca
Orecchini di Mr. Lieou in cristallo di rocca e diamanti