smeraldo Archives | gioiellis.com

How to choose a sapphire ring

Published on April 5, 2023

da sapere

Anello a fascia in oro bianco 18 carati, pavé di diamanti e zaffiro ovale

How and why to choose a sapphire ring? Useful tips for buying a ring (but also a necklace, bracelet earrings) with sapphire ♦ ︎

The blue color is beautiful: it is that of the sea, of the clear sky, and also of the most precious sapphire. But you probably know that sapphires are a stone that is found in other colors, such as yellow, pink, purple. But how to choose a sapphire ring? And how much is a sapphire worth? If you are not an expert there are some aspects that you can take into account before buying a sapphire ring (but the same goes for a necklace, earrings or bracelet). Here are some useful tips, which can help you make the right decision if you want to buy sapphire jewelry.

Anello con raro zaffiro blu non riscaldato taglio cuscino di 12 carati

1 Check the provenance. Knowing where a stone comes from is essential. For example, for sapphires, the origin of the stones is particularly important. Sapphire is extracted in many parts of the world, but not all stones are the same: there are the very rare sapphires from Kashmir, or from Burma (Myanmar) or mined in Sri Lanka. They have different prices. For example, the mines of Kashmir (India) have been exhausted for a century and, therefore, sapphires with that origin are very rare and very expensive. They are also generally considered to be of a superior quality: their color is particularly intense, saturated, with a velvety light that seems to come from within. Burmese sapphires are also similar, but have more glassy, transparent, clear reflections, with a vivid color. Finally, Sri Lankan sapphires are very bright, with an almost liquid reflection with purple points. They also often have a particular crystalline texture that gives a different color intensity when turning the stone in front of a light. Sapphires from Sri Lanka look fresher and more modern than those from Burma or Kashmir. But sapphires are also mined in Thailand or Vietnam, or in Africa, for example in Tanzania, Kenya, Nigeria, Madagascar and even in Montana (United States).

Shaun Leane, anello con zaffiro di 10,53 carati

2 Warm or unheated. In most cases, sapphires (as well as many other stones) have been heated to make the color more vivid and the gems more transparent. It has been a practice that has lasted for centuries, so don’t be scandalized. If a stone has not been heated and boasts an intense color, however, it is also of greater value. And if a sapphire is not natural and has not been heated, it is usually a quality that is underlined (and charged for) at the time of sale. Normally the stones are always accompanied by the certificate of a gemological institute. Warning: heating the sapphire is not the only way to make the stone better and more salable. Another system consists in filling the micro invoices with synthetic material with the addition of dyes. In this case, however, the stones can be damaged by an acidic substance, for example during cleaning, for example a soap or lemon juice. Therefore, before buying a sapphire, always ask if it has been treated and with what method.

Anello in oro bianco con zaffiro Ceylon, non scaldato, taglio rettangolare di 33,40 carati

3 What color. Sapphires are not all blue, the most prized color. There are also yellow, orange, red, purple, green and pink sapphires (one particular particularly fine variety is called padparadscha) and there are even colorless gems like diamonds. In general, however, the value of the stones depends a lot on the intensity of the color. The more the color is intense without compromising the brightness, the more the stone is precious.

Anello con zaffiro rosa naturale circondato da diamanti

4 Beware of defects. If you buy a sapphire ring and the stone is of a certain size it will be easier to check if there are any inclusions inside (and usually very likely to be). The inclusions can be, for example, clear filaments of rutile, which make a stone less precious. Not only that: in some cases these inclusions can threaten the solidity of the stone. If the inclusions are very visible, the price of a sapphire can drop substantially. With one exception: if the inclusions form a kind of star reflected on the surface, a fairly rare phenomenon, in that case the sapphire has a higher value.

5 Make a comparison. Even if a sapphire ring looks beautiful to you, ask to compare it in the light with other jewels. Your jeweler certainly has other sapphire jewels available and a comparison between different stones will make you discover, for example, if the color of your stone is more or less intense. Furthermore, as with diamonds, the quality of the cut matters a lot: usually for sapphires a round or oval cut is preferred. Large stones are also offered with a sugar loaf shape.

Anello con zaffiro taglio pan di zucchero e diamanti by Viren Bhagat

6 Look at the cut. One of the aspects that can enhance or depress the value of a gem is the cut. A good cut can make a big difference, giving more brilliance to the stone and reflecting the light evenly over the entire gem. Badly cut sapphires also have a lower value. How do you know if a stone is cut well? In fact I am an expert gemologist can immediately see the defects and identify the technical cause of a failed cut. But if you expose the stone to light and compare it to similar ones, you may notice differences in the reflections: choose the brightest.

Anello in platino con zaffiro giallo di 6,01 carati

Spilla in oro e diamanti con zaffiro viola

An octagonal emerald likes Paris

Published on December 17, 2022

news

L'attrice americana Sarah Rafferty indossa la collana con smeraldo colombiano e diamanti

Time to take stock of the world of auction sales. Christie’s Paris Joaillerie’s online jewelry sale totaled 7,860,006, averaging pre-auction estimates, which included 286 lots. Bidders from 40 countries won 42% of the jewels offered above the maximum estimate. The auction featured a selection of vintage pieces by, among others, Belperron, Boivin, Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, Jar, Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as contemporary designers.

Collier con pendente che può essere indossato anche come spilla con uno smeraldo colombiano di taglio ottagonale da 12,284 carati e diamanti vecchio taglio

The sale also included jewels from collections of private collectors, with a special focus on Art Deco jewels by Cartier, retro jewels by Van Cleef and Arpels and Lacloche, pieces by Suzanne Belperron and René Boivin and a selection of jewels by René Lalique. The top lot proved to be a necklace with a pendant that can also be worn as a brooch with a 12.284-carat octagonal-cut Colombian emerald and old-cut diamonds: it was sold for 604,800 euros, against a maximum pre-sale estimate of 250,000 euros.

Collana con diamanti, oro giallo 18 carati, circa 1950 di Boucheron

Spilla di perle naturali e diamanti dell'inizio del XIX secolo — Spilla di perle naturali e diamanti dell’inizio del XIX secolo

Diamante taglio brillante a pera di 8,59 carati, oro bianco 18 carati

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo di 8,01 carati e diamanti circolari

Diamante taglio brillante a losanga modificato di 15,84 carati su anello di Cartier

Spilla con rubini e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels

How hard are jewelry stones?

Published on December 3, 2022

da sapere

How resistant are the stones of your jewels? Can they be damaged easily?

The hardness of gems is measured by the Mohs scale. The name derives from the German scientist Friedrich Mohs, who conceived it in 1812. The Mohs scale assigns a grade from one to ten to the degree of hardness of the stones. In this way, you can know which ones are more delicate, for example, which scratch or break more often. It is an aspect that is best known to avoid nasty surprises: knowing how hard the stones of your jewels are is also useful for cleaning. For example, an opal is not as strong as a ruby and should be treated with greater delicacy.

In short, generally when someone buys a piece of jewelry they don’t ask you if it will be tough enough to withstand occasional bumps. Yet it is a question that is best to ask yourself, especially if the stone is mounted on a ring, a jewel that is more easily subject to contact with other materials. But the same goes for earrings or necklace if these jewels have stones.

Diamante taglio cuscino di Jack Reiss. Il diamante è l'elemento più duro in natura — Diamante taglio cuscino di Jack Reiss. Il diamante è l’elemento più duro in natura

Although we tend to believe that a stone is incredibly more solid than any common object of everyday life, this is not the case. The gems of your jewelry could be fragile stones, at risk of being scratched or even shattered in some unfortunate circumstance. Even the diamond is absolutely not safe from all danger. Fortunately, Mohs took the trouble, almost two centuries ago, to measure the hardness of different minerals, including precious stones. It is therefore possible to know the degree of hardness of the stones with some certainty.

Pietra	Durezza
Diamante	10
Rubino	9
Zaffiro	9
Alessandrite	8.5
Crisoberillo	8.5
Topazio	8
Spinello	8
Smeraldo	7,5-8
Andalusite	7.5
Hambergite	7.5
Acquamarina	7,5-8
Goshenite	7,5-8
Berillo	7,5-8
Morganite	7,5-8
Granato demantoide	7-7,5
Ametista	7
Tormalina	7-7,5
Quarzo	7
Kunzite	7
Citrino	7
Danburite	7-7,5
Iolite	7-7,5
Rubellite	7-7,5
Tanzanite	6,5-7
Peridoto	6,5-7
Granato	6,5 - 7,5
Diaspro	6,5-7
Axinite	6,5-7
Crisoprasio	6,5-7
Corallo fossile	6,5-7
Agata	6,5-7
Spessartite	6,5 - 7,5
Occhio di tigre	6,5-7
Zircone	6,5 - 7,5
Diasporo	6,5-7
Eliotropio	6,5-7
Tsavorite	6,5 - 7,5
Onice	6,5-7
Corniola	6,5-7
Calcedonio	6,5-7
Rhodolite	6,5 - 7,5
Sillimanite	6,5 - 7,5
Labradorite	6 - 6.5
Pietra Luna	6 - 6.5
Giadeite, giada nefrite	6 - 6.5
Amazzonite	6 - 6.5
Opale	5.5 - 6.5
Ematite	5.5 - 6.5
Lapislazzuli	05-giu
Turchese	05-giu
Ossidiana	5-5,5
Malachite	3,5-4
Corallo	03-apr
Perla	2,5-4,5
Chrysocolla	Di 2 - 4
Ambra	2-2,5

The Mohs scale was initially based on ten readily available minerals. This ranking was subsequently completed and is now an important indicator for those who buy a stone. But be careful: it is a special scale. For example, a corundum (such as ruby) is twice as hard as a topaz, but a diamond is nearly four times harder than a corundum. What you see on this page is a table that summarizes the hardness of the main stones. At the head is the diamond. Immediately after there are rubies and sapphires. Then … Federico Graglia

Set di spinelli di diverse sfumature di Paul Wild — Set con spinelli di diverse sfumature di Paul Wild

Quick guide to the cuts of the stones

Published on September 14, 2022

da sapere

Quick guide to cuts of stones, diamonds included. Learn to which shape the baguette, marquise, and brilliant cuts match … ♦

Brilliant, marquise, briolette … Diamonds, emeralds or rubies (and all other stones) can be cut in many different ways. But how often do you understand the description of a jewel and do not know exactly the meaning of the different forms that a gem takes on rings or necklaces? Here is a small guide among the different cuts of precious stones.

Baguette. It is a type that became popular during the Art Deco period: in essence, it is a variant of the emerald cut. The baguette, that is the wand, recalls the typical French bread: it is long and rectangular, with octagonal corners and 14 facets. It can create truly amazing effects and adds a strong character to the jewel. But it is also a cut that is not easy to use in jewelry. Baguette cutting is often used together with stones with other shapes. For example, a baguette cut diamond can accompany other gems with different volumes.

Galleria Leysen, orecchini in oro bianco, smeraldi colombiani e diamanti baguette

Brilliant / Round. The round cut is the most common form for diamonds, also because it enhances the diffraction capacity of the stone, increasing its brightness. The brilliant cut, or round, represents up to 75 percent of the diamonds sold. This cut is quite recent: it was codified only at the beginning of the last century and has 58 facets. The crown is the area that is at the top, the belt is the circumference, the widest. This cut is not easy to make, but it is certainly the one that offers the greatest enhancement of a diamond compared to its weight.

Orecchini in oro bianco, con diamante taglio brillante da 15 carati e due perle naturali di 13 millimetri

Anello della collezione Melody of Diamonds di de Grisogono. Un brillante, due diamanti a pera, 268 diamanti su oro bianco

Briolette. The briolette cut is among the best known and is often used to make pendants for necklaces or earrings. This cut essentially has the shape of a drop, but multifaceted. In reality there are four variations of the teardrop shape: the most famous has the facets composed of rhombuses. But there are also the most accentuated drop-shaped, olive-shaped, ball-shaped pendants that take the shape indicated by the name.

Oval. It is a very simple and regular form. For this reason it is commonly believed to be one of the oldest cuts to present a diamond. However, this is not the case: this cut for gems has only been experimented since 1960. An oval-shaped diamond has a uniform and symmetrical design and has 56 facets. Like the marquise cut it is, in essence, a variant of the brilliant cut. The advantage is that the elongated shape makes the stone appear larger than the perfectly circular cut.

Lenti Villasco, anello in oro bianco e diamante ovale

Anello con smeraldo colombiano taglio ovale e diamanti

Heart. The heart cut is, in essence, a pear shape with an inward fold on the upper side. As it is easy to imagine, it is used to emphasize the romantic aspect, but it is not very easy to make: it usually requires rather large stones and a lot of workmanship. But there are also Maison, like the Italian Recarlo, often use heart-shaped diamonds, even small ones, and have made them a distinctive aspect. For larger stones, however, the heart shape is usually more expensive in proportion to the carats.

Orecchini con zaffiri tagliati a cuore e diamanti

Asscher. It assumes its name from Asscher, an Amsterdam company specialized in the diamond trade founded in 1854 by the family of the same name (it is responsible for cutting some of the most famous diamonds in the world, including two of the three largest diamonds ever found). In 1902 Joseph Asscher designed and patented his original Asscher cut of the same name. The idea was to combine the emerald cut with the round cut, in a shape characterized by extreme symmetry and dramatically-cut corners. Like the emerald cut, Asscher needs stones without inclusions and very clear.

Anello con grande diamante taglio Asscher firmato David Morris

Anello con diamante asscher giallo contornato da diamanti biancbi taglio a pera

Cushion. It is easy to come across the cushion-cut on antique jewelry: it is, in fact, the oldest form, an update of the so-called Old Mine cut of the 18th century. As the name indicates, it is a cushion-shaped cut with 58 facets. The corners are rounded and the facets typically larger than the brilliant cut. But it requires very high-quality stones.

Diamante fancy intense blue con taglio a cuscino

Anello con diamante fancy intense yellow e diamanti incolori

Marquise. Few people know why this form is called like this: according to the legend this cut has instead a spicy story. It would have been invented at the court of the king of France: Louis XIV commissioned it, it seems, to combine the stone with Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, marquise of Pompadour, her lover. The cut is an elongated shape that reaches a point at both ends, with slightly rounded sides. Like the oval cut, the marquise cut enhances the visual impact of the stone, which appears larger than round cuts of the same carat weight.

Anello con diamante taglio marquise di 4,61 carati, colore D, chiarezza VVS

Chanel, anello con diamante taglio marquise e zaffiri

Pear. Make a mix of the oval cut with the marquise cut and here the result is the pear shape. As the name indicates, the shape is similar to that of the fruit and is widely used in jewelry, also because it has the advantage of enhancing the light in diamonds and adding a hint of asymmetry to the design. A pear cut diamond has 58 facets: asymmetry is one of the most appreciated aspects by many jewelers, who use the pear shape for rings as an alternative to the classic round cut. But this form is also widely used for pendants.

Anello con due diamanti, fancy vivid blue e bianco taglio pera, circa 2 carati l'uno, con diamanti baguette ai lati, montati su platino — Anello con due diamanti, fancy vivid blue e bianco taglio pera, circa 2 carati l’uno, con diamanti baguette ai lati, montati su platino

Princess. It is one of the most recent news. In fact, this type of cut has only been introduced in jewelry since 1980 and is very popular especially in North America. The princess cut is square or rectangular, which in some cases manages to be brighter than the typical round cut. But of course it also depends on the starting shape of the stone. Another advantage of the “princess” cut is that it requires less waste of raw stone than other cuts.

Anello in platino con diamanti bianchi e rosa — Anello in platino con diamante taglio princess e diamanti bianchi e rosa

ANCO02 — Anello con un ciuffo di alghe in tsavoriti e diamanti black, trattiene un’acquamarina taglio princess di 52.45 carati

Radiant. It combines the virtues of brilliant cut with those of emerald cut. The radiant form was developed in 1977 and has between 62 and 70 facets. It is often confused with the princess cut, but unlike the latter, the radiant shape has cut corners, which slightly sweetens the square shape. With the same weight, compared to a round cut diamond, the radiant surface is 4% smaller. On the other hand, a radiant cut diamond appears larger.

Radiant diamond (3.20 ct) and diamond (4.80 ct) ring set in white and yellow gold — Picchiotti, radiant diamond (3.20 ct) and diamond (4.80 ct) ring set in white and yellow gold

Radiant Fancy Pink DB Classic Pavé Ring — Anello con diamante rosa taglio radiant e pavé di brillanti

Emerald. The shape is rectangular, with cut corners. It is one of the oldest and one of the most demanding cuts: with this form the defects of a stone can be seen immediately. On some occasions it is also called step-cut, because its concentric, wide and flat surfaces remind the steps of the stairs. Faulty inclusions and colors are enhanced, but at the same time the best stones are enhanced. It typically has 50 to 58 facets.

Galleria Leysen, anello in platino e diamante taglio smeraldo da 8,32 carati

Charles green, anello con acquamarina taglio smeraldo, diamanti, su platino — Charles Green, anello con acquamarina taglio smeraldo, diamanti, su platino

Trilliant. This cut was also developed by Asscher. It was launched in New York in 1960. It is considered excellent for the ability to enhance light within the stone. Basically it is a triangular shape, with curved and straight parts, sharp and rounded corners. This cut has different variations: the sides, for example, can be curved or straight and the shape of the surface is also subject to different interpretations.

Tanzanite a taglio triangolare con oro bianco e diamanti

Gems that look the same

Published on August 14, 2022

da sapere

Beware of false friends in jewelry. Or, better, don’t buy stones that have different values, but a similar appearance. Similar, but not the same. Yet, not only authoritative gemologists have fallen into the misunderstanding, but also customers willing to pay figures with many zeros and even crowned heads. Do you want an example? Numerous precious stones belonging to the treasury of Tsar Peter I of Russia, long believed to be rubies, were later classified as rubellite. The same gem, the ruby, also fooled the London royals: the so-called Black Prince Ruby of about 170 carats mounted on the British imperial crown is actually not a ruby, but a spinel, placed next to the Cullinan II diamond, this authentic . In short, stones with the same color and quite similar. But one is worth more than the other.

Al centro della corona il Rubino del Principe Nero, che in realtà è uno spinello

Ruby and spinel. Both are red stones, although the spinel can also take on other shades, for example these stones can also be black. Many spinels used in jewelry have a color and clarity very similar to that of ruby and sapphire (two stones that are varieties of corundum). Not only that: spinel is often found in deposits adjacent to those of these two most precious stones. In addition to the deep red spinel, there is also a raspberry-colored variety that is mined in Tanzania.

Ruby and rubellite. Rubellite is another red stone, which can have an intense hue similar to that of certain rubies. However, it is a variety of tourmaline, a less rare gem than rubies. Rubellite was already known in ancient Roman times and the gem was often confused with garnets and spinels. The great diffusion in the West took place at the beginning of the seventeenth century after the Dutch importation of the rubellite from Sri Lanka. In 1998 a large tourmaline mine was discovered in Nigeria and rubellite invaded jewelers.

Anello con rubino birmano da 8,80 carati e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite

Spinel and taaffeite. Between these two stones it is taaffeite that is rarer and more expensive. Taaffeite is named after its discoverer, the Irish Richard Taaffe, who in 1945 identified it as confused with spinel. Sent to London for analysis, it was identified as a new precious stone, unfortunately very difficult to find. Unlike spinel, taaffeite exhibits the property of double refraction which allows the distinction between these two minerals. It can have different colors, including red, violet and red, which make it very similar to certain varieties of spinel.

Diamonds and zircons. Attention, let’s not talk about cubic zirconia, which are artificial stones with a very low price and used for pendants and bijoux that cost a few tens of euros or dollars. Real zircons are natural stones. They can have different colors, often found in the blue hue, but there are also colorless zircons like diamonds. Furthermore, zircon has a very high refractive index, lower only than that of diamond, and for this reason it has often been mistaken for the gem it resembles. From a chemical point of view, however, diamonds and zircons are different: the former are made of pure carbon, the latter are nesosilicates.

Emerald and demantoid garnet. They are both green stones. The demantoid garnet, just like the emerald, takes on the green hue due to the percentage of chromium and iron, which lead to bright green shades or more tending to green-yellow, even green tending to blue. Another variety of garnet, tsavorite, also has a green hue that can be mistaken for emerald. In fact, many jewelers combine the two stones on the same piece of jewelry to lower the cost.

Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti by Tenzo

Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino

Bracciale Serpente in titanio, tsavorite, onice, lacca

Topaz, quartz, aquamarine. Sometimes white topaz or topaz with faint yellow hues is mistaken for smoky or citrine quartz. Obviously a simple quartz costs less than topaz. In the blue hue, on the other hand, a pale-colored topaz can be mistaken for an aquamarine. The value of the two stones, however, is different.

Pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri — Vanessa Martinelli, pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri

Collezione Petra, collana in bronzo con topazio giallo by Gaia Caramazza

Anello in oro bianco con grande acquamarina

How to clean gold and precious stones

Published on July 30, 2022

da sapere/ORO

How to clean gold, diamonds and other precious stones? Here is a quick guide with what you need to know about how to clean your jewelry ♦

Of course, a very precious jewel must be kept with care and, frankly, if it has a great value, even emotional, it is better to take it periodically to the jeweler, who can also check its state of health: it happens, for example, that the stones can be detached. , or that the surface is covered with scratches. But it is not always necessary. You can (indeed, must) clean your jewelry periodically, just like washing your laundry. A jewel, in fact, is almost always in contact with the skin and is covered with an opaque patina due to the natural fat that comes out of the pores, and even worse it can be ruined by perfumes, creams and lotions used regularly. Here, then, are the tips for cleaning jewelry to perform at home.

Unlike silver, for example, gold does not blacken over time, but it can easily accumulate dust and dirt. The same goes for diamonds which, of all gems, have the greatest ability to retain organic fragments. And so jewelers are horrified when customers bring rings to tighten or widen, earrings to fix, and wonder why they don’t wash them like their clothes. You can restore the luster of jewelry by yourself, just a few household tools and a few ingredients.

1 Pour a few drops of liquid dish soap into a bowl of water that is just over warm, but not hot. Gently mix. Even if normal tap water works well, for even better results, you can use soda-free soda water: carbon dioxide gives rise to a process, carbonation, which in surfactants, i.e. detergents, helps to dissolve dirt. and accumulated debris. Do not use very hot or boiling water because some stones, such as opals, pearls and corals, can break with a rapid and drastic change in temperature. Then, soak for about 15 minutes to allow the solution to penetrate otherwise hard-to-reach cracks and crevices.

2 Gently scrub the jewelry with a soft bristled toothbrush, the softest possible (there are specific products, but a toothbrush or eyebrow brush will be fine), to avoid scratching the surface. Attention, stiff bristles may remove the top layer in the case of gold plated or galvanic treatment jewelry. Particular attention should be paid to very sensitive and soft stones, such as opals, or pearls.

3 Rinse in running water (always lukewarm) to remove the last residues, remembering to cover the drain plug with a pasta or metal filter coffee sieve. Domestic accidents are more frequent than imagined and even the ring or earrings in the sink pipe are a classic! One last consideration. Let the jewelry dry completely before wearing it again: if it is still wet, even slightly, it can retain moisture on the skin and cause mild skin irritation.

There is another method, that of toothpaste, useful for traveling or for everyday jewelry

1 Mix a small amount of toothpaste and water in a bowl to make a smooth paste.
2 Scrub with an old soft-bristled toothbrush.
3 Rinse thoroughly.

But if the dirt remains, before trying more radical methods such as boiling water or ammonia, which we strongly advise against, it is best to consult a professional.

The luxury of Caram

Published on July 1, 2022

vetrina

Anello con zaffiro rosa taglio cuscino e diamanti

If you are fond of precious gems you must know Caram. It was founded by an Indian, Raj Kumar Jain in 1975, but in Idar-Oberstein in Germany. The company is also present in Hong Kong and Jaipur, the city of origin, which is also the Indian capital of gems. The company specializes in the trade of diamonds, colored precious stones, but also produces high jewelery. To give an idea of what Caram treats, we offer you some images that summarize the brand’s activity.

Starting with the Mughal style necklace (Arab domination of the northern part of India, between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries) with carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires. A composition that does not go unnoticed. The 65-carat cushion-cut Colombian emerald is exceptional in size, quality and color. The ring was also made following the dictates of a style of the past. It is made with platinum and a Kashmiri sapphire: it is natural (unheated) gemstone of 5.09 carats. Other jewels, on the other hand, are made according to classic aesthetic models, with large and high quality diamonds or colored stones.

Anello con rubino taglio ovale e diamanti

Orecchini con zaffiri taglio cuscino e diamanti

Anello con zaffiro Padparadscha e diamanti

How to recognize the emeralds

Published on May 1, 2022

Due anelli di Denise Cassou con due grandi smeraldi dalla tonalità completamente diversa

The emerald is the stone linked to the month of May. It is one of the most precious stones, yet not everyone knows it thoroughly. Here are the essential things to know about the emerald ♦

How to recognize an emerald? It is easy to understand the value and quality? The answer is no. Only a survey conducted by an expert (or disinterested unpaid) can provide a serious judgment. But knowing the basics can help you figure out if you should pay for an expert opinion, and it helps to have an idea about the stone that interests you.

Anello in oro giallo con smeraldi by Kohinoor Jewelers

Four C. Emeralds, like diamonds, are evaluated based on four parameters (The Four C): color, clarity (clarity), cut (cut) and carat. Unlike diamonds, however, for the color of emeralds is the most outstanding feature. If you think it is also the only gem that gives a name to a color: emerald green.

Color. In the emerald hue and saturation of the color can vary significantly. A deep shade is most appreciated. Hence, the value is linked to the gradient of color: the more intense, the more sought after.

Anello in oro rosa con smeraldo — Vittoria d’Aste-Surcouf, anello in oro rosa con smeraldo

Sharpness. As for diamonds, in an emerald can be no inclusions or blemishes. Sometimes these imperfections are invisible to the naked eye : you have to use powerful lenses and watch against the stone. Among other things, these tiny tracks constitute a kind of ” fingerprint “. Obviously, inclusions, bubbles or scratches that internal influence the value of the stone.

Anello di Van Cleef & Arpels, diamanti e smeraldo con il classico taglio smeraldo

Cutting. The word cut (cut) refers to the way in which it was given shape in an emerald to optimize its beauty. A great emerald can be improved only with the experience of a good cutter. Many have a particular cut emeralds, roughly rectangular in shape that is called, in fact, the emerald cut.

The duPont Emerald, anello con smeraldo colombiano di 9,11 carati

Carat. It is a measure of the weight of an emerald. Of course, the larger an emerald, the higher its carat weight, and often the cost. However, it is not the main feature : better a smaller stone, but transparent and intense color that a large but full of imperfections.

Provenance. The best emeralds are those of Colombia. Other mines are found in Zambia, Africa. Today about 40-50% of the emeralds mined come from Zambia, where these gems were formed 500 million years ago. Emeralds were discovered in the African country in the late 1970s and the first official auction by the Zambian government took place in 1982. But in those years the classification of emeralds was not like it is today. The lower grades weren’t in high demand and didn’t have a great rating. But now groups like Gemfields and Grizzly, with their new technology, are able to propose and classify stones in a better way.

Anello con oro brunito e graffiato, con al centro uno smeraldo — Antonini, anello con oro rodiato nero e graffiato, con al centro uno smeraldo

Beware of treatments. The stones are often treated to improve their appearance. One of these techniques is the so-called heat-treatment (ie through heat): it consists in heating the stone to improve its color and purity. The Deep Diffusion Treatment instead consists in spreading in the stone additives such as beryllium, whose purpose is to obtain colors totally different from the original ones, generally rare in nature. For example, the orange color for sapphires. These two treatments are recognized by professionals, and are specified on the certificate of the gemmology laboratory that examined the stone.

Bracciale di Bulgari con diamanti e smeraldi appartenuto a Liz Taylor

Origin. In Buddhism, the emerald is considered one of the seven treasures and equated with wisdom. The word emerald comes from the Latin smaragdus, which in turn derives from the Greek word σμάραγδος (smaragdos). But the Greek word derives from izmargad, a Semitic term, or maragata, a Sanskrit term (ancient language of India), which means green stone.

Anello con smeraldo e zaffiri di Manuel Bouvier

Il grande smeraldo del peso di 6,225 carati

Smeraldo con piccole imperfezioni interne

Chopard even greener with a maxi emerald

Published on February 8, 2022

news

It is quite rare for a jewelry house to present something that is not a jewel. The only exceptions envisaged concern precious stones but, they are in exceptional cases, such as the one concerning Chopard. One of these concerns a large emerald weighing 6,225 carats which equates to over 1.2 kilograms. Certainly you don’t see many emeralds that big, but also of such high quality. The emerald also has a name: Chopard Insofu Emerald. The word insofu means elephant in Bemba, the language of the people living in the region of origin of the stone, in Zambia, Africa. The stone was extracted, in fact, in the Kagem mine and was chosen directly by the co-president and artistic director of Chopard, Caroline Scheufele.

The fully traceable stone will be cut into different pieces for use in future Chopard collections. The Maison, which for some time has chosen to use only fairmined gold, during the week of couture in Paris also presented other pieces of high jewelery, such as a ring with a 10.88 carat radiant cut fancy intense pink diamond and a Toi ring. & Moi with a 4.10 carat deep blue fancy diamond and a white diamond.

Anello con un diamante rosa intenso fancy taglio radiante da 10,88 carati e rubini

Anello Toi & Moi con un diamante fancy blu intenso da 4,10 carati e un diamante bianco taglio pera

Takat, the design which comes from India

Published on January 13, 2022

vetrina/ANELLI/COLLANE

Anello in oro giallo e bianco, diamanti, smeraldo

Takat, brand which won the prestigious Best Design Jck Award, has a history that comes from afar: Haji Nisar Ahmed Takat, was descended from an ancient family of Indian craftsmen stonemasons. In 1955, he opened his first workshop of carving and polishing in Jaipur, Rajasthan, India. In 1976, with the help of the children Siraj Ahmed Takat and Rafeeq Ahmed Takat, opened a small office in the city and began buying and selling of precious stones.

In 1994, Siraj and Rafeeq began to exhibit in gems and jewelry trade shows around the world, from Hong Kong to Tokyo, Tucson, from Chicago to Vicenza, Milan and Dubai. Up to open an office in New York City. Despite this, Takat remains a family company. The winner of the prize jewel is a necklace with a reversible tanzanite cut shield from 18.73 carat round diamonds and marquise cut diamonds. For those interested, it costs 25 thousand dollars.

Anello con diamanti champagne e morganite

Orecchini con diamanti bianchi per 7 carati e diamanti fancy yellow

Collana con diamanti e tanzanite di oltre 186 carati

Diamonds, an Amour with 77 faces

Published on December 18, 2021

vetrina/Diamanti

Anello L'Amour, con diamante Crisscut classic

A diamond with 77 facets: it’s called Crisscut and is mounted in the jewels of the L’Amour collection by Christopher Designs ♦

Love is true love only if it is excessive, right? It is something that involves, that drives us to do great things, to challenge rules and clichés. And, then, why a diamond donated for love should not be in tune with this pleasant madness? Christopher Slowinski must have thought in this way when he founded Christopher Designs, in 1981. Born in Poland, Slowinski has worked as a simple apprentice with master craftsmen even after moving to the United States, in New York. City.

Long story short: he invented Crisscut, a patented diamond cut that increases to 77 the little faces of the stones, instead of the traditional 48. This cut makes it even brighter and more brilliant diamond. The Crisscut was initially applied to the emerald cut, to increase their reflexes. But then Christopher has also extended the concept to other cuts such as the Asscher and cushion until you get to 109 facets in a round stone. But the brilliant Crisscut actually has straight walls 12 and 12 sides and this further increases the brightness. The diamonds have become the L’Amour collection. Which has no limits, of course.

Diamante Crisscut su taglio smeraldo, a 77 facce

Anello con diamanti taglio Asscher e Crisscut

Anello con diamanti taglio L'Amour Crisscut — Anello con diamanti taglio L’Amour Crisscut

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo Crisscut

La comparazione tra il taglio classico e Crisscut

Why choose an emerald ring?

Published on November 18, 2021

da sapere

How and why to choose an emerald ring: useful tips for buying the green stone ♦ ︎

Is green your favorite color? It is certainly the color of the meadows, but also of Ireland, of youth and much more. For example, emeralds. Green is very fashionable, also thanks to the awareness that greater environmental protection is needed. So, if you want to buy an emerald ring you have made the right choice. Wait a minute: can you choose an emerald ring? Here’s what you need to know (and don’t skip # 5).

Anello in oro e smeraldo di Loren Nicole — Anello in oro e smeraldo colombiano Muzo di Loren Nicole

1 Attention to treatment. Often the stones used by jewelers are not in the same condition as when they are extracted from the ground. Emeralds, for example, are in most cases treated in some way to improve their appearance. And this happens because emeralds very often have inclusions, also called jardin in a romantic way. These gardens can alter the appearance of the stone too much and, for this reason, can be eliminated or reduced with different methods. This is not bad if it improves the appearance. Another problem that is almost always encountered in emeralds are the micro cracks present in the stone. Therefore, it is better to know which treatment the emerald you want to buy undergoes. Often, for example, emeralds are treated with a special oil or synthetic resin. To improve them, the stones are immersed in the liquid, which is subsequently compressed into the gem so that it can penetrate as deeply as possible between the micro cracks of the emerald. The treatment with oil is the most natural and does not remain forever in the stone. Even so, however, inclusions may be visible. Nothing wrong with that: but know that the most precious emeralds (very rare and much more expensive), however, are those that do not undergo treatments.

Winston Emerald Ring HD — Anello di Harry Winston con smeraldo

2 Ask where it comes from. When buying an emerald ring ask where the stone was mined. The most precious emeralds, for example, come from Colombia, often they are also clearer and more transparent. For this reason, green can sometimes appear slightly less intense. The most popular emeralds are those with a darker, deeper shade, almost tending to blue. On the other hand, an untreated emerald, even if it is a little pale, but without inclusions, can be more precious than a treated dark one. Other excellent emeralds come from African countries, such as Zambia. But also from Zimbabwe and Ethiopia.

Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi dello Zambia by Vania Leles

3 How to evaluate an emerald. How much is an emerald really worth? Difficult to say: it can range from a few hundred euros or dollars to thousands for each carat, it all depends on the quality. Color is the most considered aspect in establishing the price for an emerald. The most popular hue tends to a saturated and vivid color, but not too dark. Another important aspect is transparency: the more they are similar to a crystal, the more they are required. Third important parameter is that the color is distributed evenly. So, take a good look at your emerald before buying it.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo della collezione Bogotà by Crieri

4 Shape is important. The classic cut for the green stone is called the emerald cut. It is a rectangular type cut, with a stepped edge, straight linear facets, arranged parallel along the stone. To prevent fracture of the gemstone the corners of an emerald cut stone are usually cut, in order to avoid friction or random impacts. This type of cut also has another reason: it is the one that best suits the type of crystal with which the emeralds are composed. Furthermore, it is the cut that manages to make the micro cracks less evident.

5 Beware of clones. The idea is spreading that it is more respectful for the environment to use synthetic stones instead of natural gems, extracted from the earth. It is a controversial aspect. In any case, usually synthetic emeralds (but also diamonds and other stones) are generally marketed with the company name and the word “created” or “grown”, lab-grown, ie coming from a laboratory. You won’t also find the word “synthetic”, but it is the same thing: they cost less, but it is not a natural stone. To you the choice.

Anello con smeraldo di 6 carati, diamanti e smeraldi a cornice by Mariani 1878

6 How to clean the emerald. Remember that an emerald almost always has micro fractures, usually invisible to the naked eye. Therefore, avoid aggressive detergents, but also cleaning with ultrasound or steam. Warm water and a few drops of neutral soap, on the other hand, are fine.

Anello con smeraldo ottagonale di 8,32 carati

Emerald success for Crieri

Published on October 30, 2021

ANELLI/bracciale/vetrina/COLLANE

Green is in fashion: it is synonymous with environment, nature, hope. But also of emeralds which, in truth, have never gone out of fashion. As the story of Crieri can testify, a jewelry brand made in Valenza (Italy) which, among its finest collections, has one dedicated to the green stone par excellence. The Bogotà collection, as its name indicates, is dedicated to Colombian emeralds. Stones that, according to the company, were at the center of the first trip to the Colombian capital of the company founder, Alessandro Saracino, in 1996. And in the historic district, where Colombian emerald dealers meet every day to buy and sell gemme, in 2005 by Alessandro Saracino he opened the first office.

The result is, in fact, the Bogotà collection, which turns on the lights on the transparencies, reflections and mysteries of the emerald (all the stones are certified by the gemmolgo Pio Visconti and the Swiss C. Dunaigre), mounted on white gold and surrounded by diamonds. A classic line, which brings together a series of classic high-end jewels, offered in a price range ranging from 5,000 to 300,000 euros.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo colombiano

Collana in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo

Collier in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo

Leonori to the top

Published on October 1, 2021

vetrina

Anello doppio con diamanti e zaffiri gialli

Leonori’s high jewelery, an Italian Maison that is high ranking as the bigs ♦ ︎
In Forlì, Emilia Romagna, a stone’s throw from the beaches of the Adriatic Riviera, Cesare Boccalatte manages to offer high jewelery. And this is not a way of saying. To create rings with fantastic emeralds, diamonds and sapphires is Leonori Gioielli a Maison that was founded by Agostino Leonori in 1962. Maestro of jewelery, Leonori studied in Orafa School of Valenza, the cradle of Italian high jewelery, and worked for over 20 years in companies in the industry.

When he learned the secrets of the craft, he returned to his native Forlì where he opened a small jewelery shop. It tells the story of the company that the activity continued with his sons Cesare, Lucio and Daniela. They have expanded and promoted the business, and attracted the attention of customers in Italy and abroad. Caesar, in particular, a few years later made woven relationships around the world to import diamonds from Tel Aviv, emeralds from Colombia, Burmese rubies and Ceylon sapphires. An excellence that focuses on the foreign market (for example, with its presence at the International Jewelery London), thanks to its jewels that have those same quality of the great Maison. As you can see from these images.

Leonori Gioielli, anello in oro bianco con diamanti e smeraldo ovale da 2,09 carati

Collezione Peonia, anello con diamanti e zaffiri rosa

Anello della collezione Giardini Segreti, in oro rosa e zaffiri

Anello con diamanti e smeraldi taglio a goccia

Collana con diamanti e zaffiro taglio a pera

Rajesh Popley’s jewels

Published on August 21, 2021

ANELLI/bracciale/vetrina

Rajesh Popley’s and his Al Anwaar, from India to Dubai for those who love the ultimate in luxury ♦ ︎

If you are planning a trip to Dubai and are in the mood for shopping, and buying jewelry, you can head straight for Al Anwaar, in the large Mall of the Emirates city. It is the realm of Rajesh Popley, an Indian entrepreneur who, in addition to owning the luxurious Dubai store, has a career as a jeweler in his native India.

Rajesh Popley was born into a family of established jewelers and at the age of 16 he attended the course of the Gemmological Institute of India, the country’s leading authority on gemology. From his father, on the other hand, he learned commerce, the ethics behind sales and craftsmanship, refined with a management course at Harvard Business School. He loves travel, which he does with his wife and children, in search of ateliers and precious stones. It is not surprising, therefore, that the jewels found in Al Anwaar and those of his Maison, Rajesh Popley, are of the highest quality. With surprising peaks, as in the case of the ring with a large and rare blue diamond.

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e smeraldi

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti, rubini e zaffiri

Collana di Al Anwaar con diamanti e smeraldi

Umrao, scent of ancient India

Published on June 13, 2021

bracciale/vetrina/COLLANE

Choker in oro con rubino, diamante, zaffiro blu, zaffiro giallo, smeraldo, corallo rosso, perla, occhio di gatto e hessonite

The ancient charm of India of Rajasthan in the traditional jewelry of the Maison Umrao in Jaipur ♦ ︎

The millennial history of India, ancient traditions, legends, rituals, spirituality, folklore, craftsmanship, love for luxury … Put all this in an ancient brass vase together with fragrant incense. The result is Umrao, jeweler of Jaipur, Rajasthan, flag bearer of the tradition of the great Asian country.

Choker tradizionale con diamanti taglio polki — Choker tradizionale su oro 24 carati con diamanti taglio polki

Its jewels, in addition to a particularly rich and elaborate appearance, are anchored in the Hindu tradition. For example, with jewels that follow the principle of Navaratna: nine stones on a single piece, usually a necklace. Navaratna stones are ruby, diamond, blue sapphire, yellow sapphire, emerald, red coral, pearl, cat’s eye and hessonite: they represent the energies of nine astrological planets. In fact, each stone is considered to be linked to a planet in its alignment and corresponds to a particular chakra. It is a sacred combination recommended in Vedic astrology to promote financial prosperity, professional growth and good health.

Coker con pietre Navaratna: rubino, diamante, zaffiro blu, zaffiro giallo, smeraldo, corallo rosso, perla, occhio di gatto e hessonite

In short, if you love traditional India and follow astrological influences, chakras, etc., these jewels are just for you, if you can afford it. By the way: in addition to precious stones, almost always with antique cuts like polki diamonds (used during the Mughal empire), Umrao’s jewels are in pure 24 carat gold, an other traditional choice.

Umrao Jewels was founded Shri Umrao Mal Shah, and now that in Jaipur no geverna plus the maharaja, children and grandchildren continue his work. In addition to the traditional Indian style, the Maison loves to create art pieces in Edwardian, Byzantine, Maghul, art dé and art nouveau styles, often with a fusion of fascinating styles.

Girocollo con rari smeraldi russi color pastello, oro, diamanti

Orecchini in oro 24 carati, rubini, diamanti

Collana tradizionale in oro 24 carati, con diamanti a taglio piatto

Tradizionale collana Sath Lada nello stile del Deccan popolare durante il periodo del Nizam Of Hyderabad. Tradizionalmente composta da sette file di perle graduate per dimensioni, infilate su in oro, diamanti non tagliati e pietre preziose

Muzo, emeralds from the producer to the consumer

Published on May 12, 2021

ANELLI/vetrina

Anello con smeraldo di 13,20 carati e diamanti rosa Argyle

From producer to consumer. It is usually a formula that is used for fruits, vegetables and the like. This time, however, it is emeralds, the most precious, the Colombian ones of Muzo. With the month of May, which has emeralds as its birthstone, the Colombian mining company launched its jewelry collections based on the green precious stone. Muzo has been involving famous designers for years who make jewels with Colombian emeralds. But now he has decided to sell the ones he designed and made directly online.

Orecchini pendenti in oro 18 carati, con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi Muzo taglio rotondo e pera

These are classic jewels, presented with the first collection called Nova. Emerald rings and earrings are set in diamond crowns or set and flanked by white or yellow diamonds. Jewels that are presented with the help of the model Alana Tapigliani. There is also a piece of high jewelry: a 13.20-carat emerald ring surrounded by pink diamonds from the Australian Argyle mine.

Anello in oro bianco con pavé di diamanti e smeraldo

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldo

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldo Muzo

Orecchini con tre smeraldi Muzo e diamanti

The maxi aquamarine of Sanalitro

Published on March 15, 2021

ANELLI/vetrina

Sanalitro, anello con acquamarina e diamanti

x

Milanese jeweler Massimo Sanalitro loves make it big. He started as a teenager learning the secrets of gem cutting in Bologna. Then, he moved to Milan, where he worked with jewelers such as Buccellati and Angela Pintaldi. Finally, he went on his own and founded his Maison. But, in fact, to go big: in particular the jeweler is famous for his cocktail rings generously enriched with stones, often in a maxi format. A fame that has brought him to international markets: he has worked for the Russian designer Valentin Yudashkin and, sporadically, for creators such as Armani, Cavalli, Donna Karan, as well as passing through the windows of Bergdorf & Goodman, in New York.

Over time, the designer has not changed his habits and, every now and then, he surprises everyone with exceptional pieces. For example, this super ring with a 76.72 carat maxi aquamarine, covering three fingers of the hand, mounted on 18 carat white gold. However, the jewel weighs just over 30 grams and it is possible to wear it without problems. In addition, four diamonds are set on the prongs. Another recent and remarkable piece is a ring with a large emerald of 33.95 carats, set in a retro-flavored set, with gold and small diamonds.

Anello in oro con tormalina pesca e topazio fumé con due diamanti grezzi

Anello in oro con acquamarina, quarzo fumé, diamanti

Bayco, story of a luxe

Published on January 3, 2021

vetrina/ANELLI

The story of one of the most emblazoned fine jewelry houses in America: Bayco ♦

Forty years ago the Iranian Gem Trader, Amir Hadjibay, was the first wheel of the engine that has sparked Bayco. After a passage to India and Italy, in 1981, his sons, Maurice and Giacomo (written just in Italian) have launched the company that is based in New York, downtown, and from 1994 began to produce their own jewelry. Now it is the turn of Mark and Manuel, third generation, but the basic idea is the same: “We make jewelery for kings and queens,” says James Hadjibay, co-CEO of Bayco Jewels.

It is not a proclamation only theoretical: the jewels of Bayco are the ultimate, and of course, are expensive even for the nobles of the planet. Everything it’s a heritage of patriarch Amir Hadjibay, who started traveling between Iran and India, to visit maharajah and treat large gemstones that were part of their heritage. Stones only for unique jewelry: brothers Hadjibay decided from the beginning that they would only create jewelry one-of-a-kind. Obviously the highest level: they not just be used diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires. The stones must be exceptional.

Anello eternity in platino e zaffiri blu

Bayco’s jewels are unique and very expensive: the price easily exceeds one million dollars. To protect this uniqueness, Bayco does not lend jewels to celebrities to parade on the red carpet during festivals or gala dinners. “It would be an insult to those who have paid all that money for our jewels and feel a step above compared to actresses and singers”, explained Marco Hadjibay. In short, these jewels are precious and just exclusive.

Style. Bayco mixes old and new trends: his pieces are often influenced by the Mogul period, the Muslim kings who ruled northern India for three centuries. Gorgeous jewelry, resisting to fashions, and are an asset for the future, as well as being of rare beauty. On the other hand the ancient gemological expertise of the family has not been lost: it’s part of their DNA. Matilde de Bounvilles

Anello in platino con diamanti taglio rosa

Orecchini in platino, ceramica e diamanti

Orecchini oro rosa con zaffiri viola naturali a taglio irregolare

Anello in platino con diamanti e rubino al centro

Muzo emeralds for ten women designers

Published on November 19, 2020

vetrina

Orecchini di Colette in oro bianco, smeraldi, onice e malachite

Every year Muzo, which manages the most famous Colombian emerald mine in the world, involves some designers in the design of jewelry with the most desired green gem in the world. Muzo’s goal is to raise awareness and emphasize the quality of emeralds not only for rings, earrings or necklaces with the classic shape, but also for new jewelry, made by designers who love to innovate. This year, however, Muzo changed the rules and reserved the collaboration for a group of entirely female designers. These are Colette, Harwell Godfrey, Jenna Blake, Katherine Jetter, Loren Nicole, Michelle Fantaci, Nina Runsdorf, Robinson Pelham, Silvia Furmanovich and Little Sister.

Anello con smeraldo di Harwell Godfrey per Muzo

The designers who adhered to Muzo’s idea have therefore created a series of high quality jewelry, often surprising and innovative, including cabochon emeralds, emerald pearls and, of course, gems in the classic rectangular cut. The jewels were then presented on Moda Operandi.

Anello con pendente di Nina Runsdorf, con smeraldo e diamanti

Orecchini di Katherine Jetter con smeraldi e smalto nero

Anello in oro giallo, diamanti e smeraldi di Michelle Fantaci

Orecchini di Robinson Pelham con smeraldi e zaffiri di diversi colori

Orecchini di Silvia Furmanovich con smeraldi su oro e miniature

Orecchini di Sorellina con smeraldi e pietra onice bianco intagliata