Coral and more coral, for over 190 years. Yes, it has been almost two centuries (since 1830) that Antonino De Simone has specialized in the processing of red coral from the Mediterranean. The Neapolitan company (from Torre del Greco) has reached its sixth generation, passing on its experience in the processing of material that is the son of the sea. Today it continues to offer jewels that enhance coral in its various shades, from bright red to pink to sophisticated white. All thanks to Antonino De Simone, who in the mid-nineteenth century was able to get the artisan workshop off the ground after learning the coral processing techniques.
From generation to generation, since 2010, after the death of the grandson of the same name, Antonino De Simone, the company is led by Gioia De Simone, together with Michele Palomba. The company combines the traditional production of semi-finished coral products for wholesale customers with a wide range of finished jewels under the Antonino De Simone brand, a brand now of international fame. Alongside coral, however, the Maison also produces jewels with turquoise, pearls, lapis lazuli, chrysoprase, diamonds.
Personalized cameos and coral jewelry from the Rialto bridge, in Venice, with Eredi Jovon ♦ ︎
Do not be fooled: in addition to bijoux for tourists, the jewelry Eredi Jovon, which is located right on the Rialto bridge, in Venice, also sells more interesting pieces. In particular, the jewelry store is specializes in cameos, also made to measure, and in coral jewelry.
The history of jewelry dates back to 1934, when Luciano Jovon opened the shop on what is one of the most famous bridges in the world. Specialized initially in the art of carving shells and agate to make cameos on silver frames, in the fifties Eredi Jovon has expanded the range of action to the coral and can now also offer pieces of a certain value. As times change, today Rialto jewelry aims to sell around the world through the internet. But, moreover, it also offers a special service: the creation of customized cameos with the profile of the client (but also of a couple), based on photo or drawing. Something better than the usual photo of the boyfriend / girlfriend on the screen phone. All jewels are designed and manufactured in Italy.
Coral necklaces, coral earrings, coral rings: but Enzo Liverino 1894 is also much more ♦
The jewels that are not usually owned can be admired only in two places: in jewelry or at major jewelry fairs. You can also peek at the necks of celebrities during their red carpet walks, but they can be seen from afar. There is, however, another possibility, which concerns only a few jewels. They are those kept in museums. One of these is the Coral Museum, in Torre del Greco (Naples). And within this museum there is an entire collection of a single jeweler: the Liverino collection.
Enzo Liverino 1894 is the name of the Maison that has been producing and processing coral for over five generations. But with great attention to the environmental aspect: Liverino is president of the CIBJO Coral Commission, for the Certification as Carbon Neutral through the CIBJO Greenhouse Gas Measurement Initiative.
The collection, in particular, was started in 1934 by Basilio Liverino, when he was 16 years old. Over time he has collected a thousand pieces of jewelery and sculptures in coral and semi-precious stones. The company is still one of the most popular coral jewelry producers today. In addition to necklaces with all shades of coral, rings and earrings, Enzo Liverino 1984 also has cameos, another traditional craftsmanship of the Torre del Greco area, among his specialties. But that’s not all: he recently developed a truly original idea: tiles made of pressed coral. They are jewel-tiles, intended for those who can afford jewel-like furnishings.
How to recognize real coral
They gave you a beautiful coral necklace. But will it be real coral? Can you recognize an authentic coral from a fake when you are about to buy a jewel? How to distinguish real coral from counterfeit coral? Before discovering how to recognize coral, you must of course know what coral is.
What is coral. Everyone knows that coral before being a material for necklaces, earrings or bracelets is a living organism. Corals, for biology, are marine invertebrates of the Anthozoa class of the phylum Cnidaria. They are tiny individuals, each a few millimeters long, called polyps (but they do not have to do with the homonymous fish), which live in compact colonies. There are many types of coral. What is used for jewelry is a kind of skeleton that forms over the years, produced by the individuals who make up the community: this structure can measure up to several meters. Corals require sunlight and clear, shallow water (less than 60 meters or 200 feet). Coral is delicate and is increasingly at risk of bleaching due to stress due to the higher temperature of the water or the toxins present in the sea. Make sure your jewelry has a legitimate and sustainable origin.
True or false. How to recognize a real coral from an imitation? The first rule to follow is: look for the bad part. It is not a paradox. Perfection does not exist in nature. A completely natural material will always have small imperfections which, however, signal its authenticity. Warning: a ring with a perfect coral cabochon is not necessarily fake. The jeweler may simply have eliminated the imperfections. But it is very difficult to erase any traces of what is natural, such as small spots, concentric lines similar to those of wood (they indicate the growth of the coral branch). An idea may be to take a good look at the back (if any) of the jewel, for example a ring: usually any imperfections are reserved for the hidden part.
Black coral. There is red, pink, white coral. And then there is the black coral. But, in reality, the latter does not belong to the same family as the others. What is called black coral is a marine plant (gorgonacea) that grows among the waves of the sea in the area of the equator. Coral, on the other hand, as we have seen, is made up of thousands of small polyps. Black coral, which is often dark brown, is a very hard plant that can be worked on. Be careful not to mistake this material for real coral. Incidentally: black coral is not uncommon (as some would have us believe) and has a rather low value.
The angel skin. One of the traps of dishonest jewelers is to sell fake angel skin coral. This is the name of a rare variety of Satsuma compact pink coral, of Japanese origin: the fewer white spots it has, the better the quality. This type of coral has a particular characteristic, which helps to recognize it immediately: it costs a lot, figures with three zeros. Therefore, a jewel with a lower price is not angel skin, but simple pink coral. Nice, but that’s another thing. By the way: precisely because angel skin coral is so rare, it is usually sold with a guarantee certificate: better ask for it.
The Clash collection by Cartier, the new rings, bracelet, necklace and earrings of the Maison. Images and prices of ring, bracelet, earrings by Cartier ♦ ︎
The Clash were an English punk rock band active from 1976 to 1986. But the word clash in the English language is also synonymous with combat. In short, the word evokes a rough, angular, and not very accommodating concept. Translated into the world of jewelry, Clash now identifies with the new Cartier collection. Which, to be precise, is a bit sharp and is reminiscent in style of bracelets and ornaments used by heavy metal and punk fans.
But the collection, presented with great pomp in Paris, and without The Clash music, does not aim to cover the centimeters of skin of rock music fans. On the contrary, with a soundtrack that includes Brian Eno, Ryuchi Sakamoto or Earthater, he wants to be destined for a refined woman.
The collection includes 14 pieces, all in rose gold, some with small diamonds set, and three with the addition of coral. The prices are those of Cartier’s fine jewelry: it starts from about 2000 euros for the smallest ring in only rose gold, to 7300 euros for a pair of hoop earrings, up to 51,000 euros for the large bracelet with pearls of red coral. Giulia Netrese
The new jewels from the Chérie collection signed by the Maison Chantecler in Capri ♦ ︎
Rings and sautoir that use the refined have the classic colours of Capri. The Chérie collection by Chantecler has been enriched with new creations, with micro sautoir in pearls, onyx, red coral, white coral and turquoise. La Maison di Capri, an isle in front of Naples, emphasizes that only perfect, uniformly colored spheres have been used. The rings are in gold, with white, green, pink, black and turquoise sky circles.
The sautoir in white alludes to the lime-colored and white houses and the linen fabric under the sun of the Neapolitan island.
The new sautoir can also be knotted with a scarf. There are also variations of rings: small sculptures with red, white coral in the center, in addition to onyx and turquoise. The stones are spooled, that is, a marquise, and wrapped in a fine pavé of diamonds. The manufacturing process involves the integration of at least seven different skills and 50 days of processing. This is also a luxury too. Margherita Donato
Pantone chosed the coral color. Here are the jewels with the Living Coral, color of the year 2019 ♦ ︎
Pantone, as every year, has established the color of the year. For 2019 it has the anonymous Pantone abbreviation 16-1546 but, to make the choice a little less anonymous, the company specialized in nuances calls the color as Living Coral.
In short, it is expected that jewels with pink-orange coral will be sought during the year.
Although, to be honest, examples of jewels that use coral and this warm color are certainly not lacking, like that of Wendy Yue, in which the coral is carved in the shape of a rose, along with 18-karat gold, multicolour sapphires, diamonds, emeralds and rubies (if you are interested, it costs $ 95,000). But, of course, the pink-orange coral has long been used by jewelers, especially those who work in and around Naples, or in Sicily. Jewelers such as Castaldi, Chantecler, De Simone, Oro di Sciacca, Rovian, to name a few, are among the heirs of this tradition. But the coral is also used by Maison who all focus on innovative design, such as Salini and Vhenier.
In short, 2019 will see a coral revival. But be careful to clean and polish the coral: the things you need know are here. Freddy Graglia
A coral for Caterina Murino
Jewelery by Caterina Murino, from James Bond to Paris showcases ♦
There is a new jewelery designer. And she miraculously escaped from Spectre, the criminal organization enemy of James Bond. In fact, Caterina Murino, an Italian actress, Sardinian for precision, was the bond girl in 007 Casinò Royale, movie played with Daniel Craig. Since 2004, she lives in Paris. And, aside the art of acting, she rediscovered his passion: jewels. Her collection is called Gemme Bruti and Filigrana, and is exhibited at the Vanier Gallery in Paris from November 24 to December 30. And to say that before he was a successful actress she wanted to do the doctor.
“I am Sardinian, who knows Sardinia knows that it is impossible not to love jewels,” she explained. “I enrolled in a Gemmology school in Paris, where I live. I’ve always been fascinated by the reason why men have come to kill to steal stones from enormous power. Then I realized that each stone has energy from infinite vibrations, it passes through many hands, is extracted, worked, commercialized. My favorite precious stone is definitely the starry sapphire: it was love at first sight after I discovered it in a mine in Sri Lanka. ” In addition to the stones, however, Caterina Murino also have a passion for coral, which reminds her of her land of origin: many of her jewels use the red fruit of the sea. Cosimo Muzzano