Ucraina

Drutis Jewelery’s Ukrainian kaleidoscope

The kaleidoscope was invented in 1814 in England by Sir David Brewster. He would never have guessed that two centuries later that little telescope containing hypnotic geometric figures of crystals would be transformed into jewels. The credit for this idea goes to the Ukrainian Maison founded by Elena (mother) and Dana (daughter) Drutis. Drutis’ business is based in Odessa and, also because of the hateful war, also in London. The jewelry of the Ukrainian Maison is full of innovations capable of combining jewelry with technology and engineering. Making a real micro kaleidoscope, which works perfectly (we tried it) in gold and pavé set with diamonds or gems is not simple.

Il ciondolo-caleidoscopio di Drutis Jewellery. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Drutis Jewellery’s kaleidoscope pendant. Copyright: jewels.com

The kaleidoscope is a beautiful jewel that also turns into a game that takes you back to childhood, as well as the precious idea of freedom. Not only. Those who buy Drutis Jewelery’s kaleidoscope also have the opportunity to design their own piece, as well as collect something to pass down from generation to generation. Among the unusual jewels of the Odessa brand there is also the mUAvement Ring, a jewel that recalls the internal mechanisms of a watch.

Il mUAvement Ring indossato. Copyright: gioiellis.com
The mUAvement Ring. Copyright: jewels.com

In the center is a clear, natural Volyn topaz. It is a gemstone mined in Ukraine. As well as the ring gear was made of Melitopol steel and Ukrainian nickel. The ring is set in gold. The idea of jewels that move, which become something that is not only admired, but touched and distracted, is also realized in the Salomone ring. In this case, stones or metal elements slide inside a groove.

Elena Drutis indossa collane e ciondoli caleidoscopio
Elena Drutis wears kaleidoscope necklaces and pendants. Copyright: jewels.com
Caleidoscopio Victory in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti
Victory kaleidoscope in white gold and pavé diamonds
Caleidoscopio Sea Candy in oro giallo e gemme
Sea Candy kaleidoscope in yellow gold and gems
Anello Salomon in oro 9 carati, platino, smeraldi sintetici
Salomon ring in 9 carat gold, platinum, synthetic emeralds
L'anello mUAvement Ring, con un topazio Volyn
The mUAvement Ring, with a Volyn topaz

Ukrainian jewelry at GemGèneve




GemGenève does not forget Ukraine. Also in the new edition of the event scheduled from 3 to 6 November there will be jewelry creators operating in the country under attack by Russia. In GemGèneve, the organizers planned the Strong & Precious project, which aims to make Ukrainian jewelers known on the international scene. Alongside contemporary creations, the antique jewels of the most famous Ukrainian jeweler of the 20th century, Joseph Marchak, will also be exhibited. He was Fabergé’s main competitor, yet Marchak was called the Cartier of Kiev. Now his jewels occupy a special place in private collections and auction houses.

Pendente Lizard di Zhernov
Pendente Lizard di Zhernov

Ukrainian goldsmith art has very deep roots and every phase of its history, from antiquity to modernity, deserves our careful attention. We are making every effort to organize this exhibition in order to amaze the foreign public with its originality and be remembered for a long time.
Natalia Kietiene, curator of the Strong & Precious project

Among the Ukrainian jewelry brands present on display are Nomis, Inesa Kovalova, Bevza, Rockah.brand, Sergey Zhernov Art & Jewelry, Drutis Jewelery, Lutiki, Gunia, Denis Music.

Orecchini di Gunia Project
Orecchini di Gunia Project

The dissemination of Ukrainian culture – cinema, art, music, literature or jewelry – is our duty today. We want to be recognized and seen through the prism of our truly brilliant cultural tradition. Our first exhibition was a real success and I have no doubt that this time too demanding and professional visitors will appreciate our goldsmith artists
Olga Oleksenko, curator of the Strong & Precious project

Anelli di Inesa Kovalova
Anelli di Inesa Kovalova indossati
Pendente-spilla di Rockah.brand
Pendente-spilla di Rockah.brand
Sea Dreams Kaleidoscope-and-Sides con topazio, tanzanite, smeraldo e apatite di Drutis Jewellery
Sea Dreams Kaleidoscope-and-Sides con topazio, tanzanite, smeraldo e apatite di Sea Dreams Kaleidoscope-and-Sides con topazio, tanzanite, smeraldo e apatite di Drutis Jewellery

Orecchini indossati di Zhernov
Orecchini indossati di Zhernov







Gems for Ukraine with Nomad’s




Precious gems to be auctioned for Ukraine. The idea was launched by Nomad’s, a company born in Ukraine, but which now operates in the cutting and trading of precious stones all over the world. Nomad’s started an auction on Ukraine’s Independence Day, August 24, which also marks six months since the invasion of Russian troops. The online auction aims to support the country. Nomad’s will donate the entire proceeds to United24, the support program launched by President Volodymyr Zelenskyy.

L'asta di gemme di Nomad's
L’asta di gemme di Nomad’s

For sale are 13 gems, including a Ukrainian topaz and heliodor beryl from the Volodarsk-Volynskii mine, a pair of 3.63-carat tanzanites, a 10.11-carat blue-green tourmaline and a 72-carat amethyst stone. , 40 carat. Although Nomad’s usually only sells to professional buyers, the company has opened the auction to everyone so everyone can get involved.

Tormalina di Nomad's
Tormalina di Nomad’s
Granato spessartite
Granato spessartite

Rubellite
Rubellite







Svetlana Lazar, Ukraine in California




From Ukraine to California, but well before the eastern country was invaded by the Russian army. Svetlana Lazar moved to San Francisco when she was only eight, then she graduated from high school and attended courses in sculpture and jewelry, to learn the goldsmith technique needed to start her own business. But she, before her, she had a lot of practice: for 11 years she worked at the counter of a jewelry retailer, with the carving and setting of stones. A hard work which, on the other hand, has endowed Svetlana with precision and awareness in her own means.

Anello in oro 18 carati con tormalina e piccoli diamanti
Anello in oro 18 carati con tormalina e piccoli diamanti

As with many other American designers with roots in distant countries, it is legitimate to ask whether Svetlana Lazar’s jewels also reflect her history and culture of origin. The answer is no. The jewels are made of 18 karat gold, with the addition of stones such as tourmaline, or opal, aquamarine or sodalite, together with small diamonds or sapphires. Some stones are set in such a way as to suggest movement across the translucent surfaces of the gems.

Orecchini in oro 18 carati con sodalite a goccia, tormaline rosse e zaffiri
Orecchini in oro 18 carati con sodalite a goccia, tormaline rosse e zaffiri
Orecchini The Moth in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Orecchini The Moth in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Anello in oro con pietra luna rainbow e diamanti
Anello in oro con pietra luna rainbow e diamanti
Orecchini in oro con pietra luna rainbow, zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini in oro con pietra luna rainbow, zaffiri e diamanti
Collana in oro con pietra luna rainbow, diamanti e zaffiri
Collana in oro con pietra luna rainbow, diamanti e zaffiri
Anello con opale etiope, su oro 22 carati e argento annerito
Anello con opale etiope, su oro 22 carati e argento annerito







New jewelers in support of Ukraine




Jewelers in support of Ukraine. In March, some jewelers launched a fundraiser for children who were victims of war. So far they have raised around £ 25,000 for Hope and Homes for Children, an NGO currently working in Ukraine, in combination with gems extracted from a Brazilian Cruzeiro mine. The support action continues and other designs have been added in recent months. Brazilian-born designer Ana Khouri, for example, has just donated a pair of earrings in yellow beryl and blue indicolite tourmaline, the colors of the Ukrainian flag.

Orecchini di Ana Khouri con tormalina indicolite e berillo
Orecchini di Ana Khouri con tormalina indicolite e berillo

The idea of ​​the jewelry for Ukraine is by Annabel Davidson of Vanity Fair on Jewelery: when Russia started the war she was in Brazil visiting the Cruzeiro mine, which is located in the state of Minas Gerais, north of Sao Paulo . The mine produces tourmaline, quartz, morganite, aquamarine and garnet, as well as blue indicolite tourmaline and yellow heliodine, the colors of the Ukrainian flag. Davidson put two and two together.

Anello di Carla Amorim con tormalina indicolite e berillo giallo
Anello di Carla Amorim con tormalina indicolite e berillo giallo

The CEO of the mine, Douglas Neves, immediately agreed to donate the gems for the project to support the Ukrainian people. They joined immediately: Carla Amorim, Ara Vartanian, Prasi and Kika Alvarenga from Brazil, Jessica McCormack in London,  Ana Khouri in New York and Maggi Simpkins based in Los Angeles, together with Ruth Tomlinson and Sophie Breitmeyer. Other jewelers, such as Solange Azagury-Partridge, Anabela Chan and Robinson Pelham, have instead decided to support the Red Cross or organizations such as Care and Save the Children UK.

Bracciale di Robinson Pelham venduto al prezzo di 100 sterline
Bracciale di Robinson Pelham venduto al prezzo di 100 sterline

The support is also an opportunity for jewelry lovers, who are drawn by lot. Every three weeks a piece of jewelry is up for grabs on JustGiving.com between anyone who makes a donation of 10 euros or pounds. The money raised is passed on to Hope and Homes for Children, which supports volunteers in Ukraine.
Gioielli a forma di girasole, il fiore dell'Ukraina, di Anabela Chan
Gioielli a forma di girasole, il fiore dell’Ucraina, di Anabela Chan

Anelli Hot Lips di Solange Azagury-Partridge
Anelli Hot Lips di Solange Azagury-Partridge







The Ukrainian jewelers at GemGèneve




Jewelery cannot and is not alien to what happens in the world. Thus GemGèneve, an event that hosts companies specializing in the trade of gems, high-end vintage jewelry and a patrol of new designers, also hosted the Strong & Precious project, with the aim of presenting the work of some Ukrainian jewelry designers. The idea is to present Ukraine as a country with a strong potential for jewelry. Ukraine, in fact, is the homeland of jewelers such as Oscar Heyman and Marshak, both of whom had Ukrainian roots and are the brightest examples of Ukrainian goldsmith craftsmanship.

Orecchini di Zhernov
Orecchini di Zhernov

The designers present in Geneva were selected by Olga Oleksenko and Natalia Kietiene. They are very different works, according to the style and technique of the different designers. Some are inspired by the goldsmith tradition of the origins, while others propose themselves as innovators, with original solutions. In short, it is a jewelry store that needs to be developed, as long as it is possible to overcome the difficult moment that the country is going through.
Anelli di Oberig
Anelli di Oberig

I have been working in the jewellery industry for years and always had a passion for collecting. My collection predominantly consists of high jewellery pieces from the XX century by well known names. However now I feel disconnected from them, they are irrelevant for me. I am admiring small independent Ukrainian brands instead. They make things that make sense, reflecting the current situation in my native country.
Olga Oleksenko

Gioiello di Brua
Gioiello di Brua
Anello di Guzema
Anello di Guzema
Orecchino di Inesa Kovalova
Orecchino di Inesa Kovalova
Collana di Lutiki
Collana di Lutiki
Anello Megapolis di Inesa Kivalova. Photo: Ira Merk
Anello Megapolis di Inesa Kivalova. Photo: Ira Merk

Gioielli di Nomis
Gioielli di Nomis







War splits the Responsible Jewelery Council




The war unleashed by Russia in Ukraine is also upsetting the world of diamonds. After the measures against Alrosa (a Russian mining company) decided by the United States, it is the Responsible Jewelery Council that split. And Iris Van der Veken, executive director of the Rjc, an association with about 1,500 members that sets the standards of the diamond supply chain, has resigned. In fact, the association has so far avoided suspending Alrosa.

Iris Van der Veken
Iris Van der Veken

The only change noted, in fact, is the resignation from the position of vice president of the RJC of the CEO of Alrosa, Sergey Ivanov. But the company, controlled by the Russian government, remained among the partners. The lack of a suspension has displeased many. Starting with Pandora, which is also the largest jewelry company in the world, which announced its decision to leave the organization due to RJC’s failure to suspend Russian companies (not just Alrosa) and urged its members to interrupt business with the country: “Pandora cannot , in good faith, be a member of an association that does not share our values, “said the CEO of the Danish group, Alexander Lacik.
Sergey Ivanov, Ceo di Alrosa
Sergey Ivanov, Ceo di Alrosa

A few hours later, the communication from the Richemont group (Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Buccellati) also arrived, which specified that they did not wish to be members of “a sector organization that includes companies that contribute to the financing of conflicts and wars “. Two exits of weight, in short. Will others follow?
La miniera di diamanti Cullinan
La miniera di diamanti Cullinan

Il diamante trovato nella miniera di Karowe, in Botswana
Il maxi diamante trovato nella miniera di Karowe, in Botswana







Does war raise the cost of diamonds?




Will the war in Ukraine also raise the price of diamonds? The question is legitimate. In fact, Alrosa, a state-controlled mining giant that controls 90% of the country’s production and is the first mining company in the world, has also been targeted by sanctions against Russia. To give an idea of ​​the size: in 2021 Alrosa sold 32.4 million carats of rough diamonds, which is equivalent to almost 30% of world production. In short, one in three diamonds comes from Russia. And the CEO of Alrosa, Sergey Ivanov, is on the list of rich Russian billionaires who have been targeted by sanctions.

Sergey Ivanov, Ceo di Alrosa
Sergey Ivanov, Ceo di Alrosa

Among other things, he is the son of former Defense Minister Sergei Ivanov, a close associate of President Vladimir Putin and is also a board member of Gazprombank, an emanation of the oil and gas giant. As a reaction, Alrosa has suspended its membership of the Natural Diamond Council, a market alliance of the world’s leading producers of precious stones.

Il diamante è stato ricavato da una pietra grezza di 179 carati
Diamante di Alrosa ricavato da una pietra grezza di 179 carati

At the same time, however, the Russian state also controls a secret reserve of diamonds, the Gokhran, which it uses to stabilize prices and to generate revenue in times of crisis. In addition, Alrosa has so far bypassed US sanctions and has managed to ensure a smooth flow of diamonds to India, where a good number of diamonds are polished and cut, around 10%. But Tiffany, for example, has just announced that it will no longer buy diamonds from Russia.

Il diamante brown di Alrosa da 27,02 carati utilizzato per una collana di Anna Hu
Il diamante brown di Alrosa da 27,02 carati utilizzato per la collana di Anna Hu

There is, then, another factor to take into account: in the days preceding the sanctions many of the so-called oligarchs or, at least, a good number of rich Russians rushed to jewelers all over the world, but in particular in the Emirates, to buy jewels and stones. It is an easily transportable asset and, unlike the bank account, it can hardly be identified and seized. Conversely, a diamond can be easily resold anywhere in the world, even if the credit card is blocked. In short, a diamond is a kind of insurance policy in difficult times. But, of course, many purchases also mean price strain. Not to mention that for years there have been Russian criminal groups operating in Europe and the US and using diamonds to launder their illicit profits. An operation that could be further encouraged by the climate of war.

Diamante nel laboratorio Tiffany di Anversa
Diamante nel laboratorio Tiffany di Anversa

All this worries companies specializing in diamond processing. The Antwerp World Diamond Center has suggested that the restrictions may prove detrimental to the sector, as Russia can continue to sell diamonds to countries such as India and China. True. But it is certainly not easy to quickly replace the Antwerp specialists in the delicate work of diamond cutting. And Russia sells diamonds rough.
A problem, in any case, which adds up to very small stocks of diamonds: according to Bain & Company, in the coffers of the operators at the beginning of the year, before the war, the stocks had decreased by about 40%, driven by the high demand and the slow resumption of production. In short, there were already fewer diamonds in circulation. And now giving away the classic solitaire is likely to be much more expensive.

Diamanti in vendita ad Anversa
Diamanti in vendita ad Anversa






Aid for Ukraine from Yana Nesper




Jewels for Ukraine. Or, rather, a jewelry designer has organized a subscription in favor of the populations affected by the war. The organizer is Yana Nesper, a designer who lives and works in Germany. And that she is particularly involved in what happened: she herself is proudly Ukrainian. She was born, in fact, in the city of Mykolayiw, which was under siege by the Russian army. For this Yana has promoted a chain of aid for the population.

Yana Nesper assieme al presidente dell'Ucraina, Volodymyr Zelenskiy
Yana Nesper assieme al presidente dell’Ucraina, Volodymyr Zelenskiy

Yana Nesper, an entrepreneur and mother of two children, is also an excellent pianist. She is originally from Mykolayiw, Ukraine, a city on the Black Sea near Odessa. In 1994 the designer married Frank Nesper, managing director of Heinz Nesper, a jewelry company specializing in pearls in Pforzheim, Germany. And since 2010 Yana is also the jewelry designer: her collections are refined, elegant, sober. But in the face of the tragedy of the war, her profession now takes a back seat.
Bracciale Charmant in oro 18 carati e perle Akoya
Bracciale Charmant in oro 18 carati e perle Akoya

Bracciale in oro e perla
Bracciale in oro e perla
Orecchini in oro giallo18 carati e perle
Orecchini in oro giallo18 carati e perle








Vicenzaoro, optimism and fears




Once the curtain has closed, it’s time for the accounts. How much did the war atmosphere weigh on Vicenzaoro, following the covid and post-pandemic euphoria? Ieg, the company that organizes the most important European jewelry fair underlines the positive result. First, however, let’s summarize the result from the small informal survey conducted by gioiellis.com on a panel of 37 exhibitors: 85% said they were very worried about the repercussions on the business (as well as from a human point of view, of course) of the war in Ukraine. 65% have taken into account more or less significant negative effects on their sales, while 10% do not expect jolts and the rest are simply uncertain.
plus ou moins importants sur leurs ventes, tandis que 10% ne s’attendent pas à des à-coups et le reste est simplement incertain.

Vicenzaoro marzo 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro marzo 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

That said, the Vicenzaoro balance sheet (which was joined by T. Gold) marked + 24% attendance compared to the Vicenzaoro September 2021 edition, of the same duration and also inserted in the unprecedented post-pandemic context. In short, despite the winds of war, a confident climate remains, even if shaken by events. The turnout of buyers and visitors from abroad, the final statement specifies, recorded attendances from Spain (6.5% of the total), Germany (6.4%), United States (6.3%), Greece (5 , 3%), France (5.2%), for a total of 53%. Numbers that are added to a brilliant final balance for the goldsmith sector: 2021 turnover of 8.8 billion euros and increased exports of Made in Italy + 15.7% compared to 2019 (+ 54% on 2020), with double-digit growth compared to 2019 towards the USA and the United Arab Emirates (Extra-EU exports worth 75%). With the hope that in September a climate of peace will consolidate an equally optimistic vision, even if two markets are now to be considered off limits.

Visitatrici a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitatrici a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Business a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Business a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gioielli di Roberto Coin a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli di Roberto Coin a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com







The Ukrainian flag among Bibi van der Velden’s Alligators

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Jewels in support of Ukraine. A sign of solidarity, combined with creativity, comes from the Dutch designer Bibi van der Velden. In her Alligator collection, the designer has added a pair of earrings in the colors of the Ukrainian flag. The earrings are made of 18K yellow gold. The body of the alligator-earring is composed of a blue topaz and a yellow citrine carved. His eyes, with one blue and one yellow sapphire, are also in nuance. Furthermore, the earring can also be worn as a pendant. Not only that: the proceeds from the sale of the earring will be donated to Unicef.

Orecchino della collezione Alligator con i colori della bandiera dell'Ucraina
Orecchino della collezione Alligator con i colori della bandiera dell’Ucraina

This is an unlimited edition as Ukrainians need our unlimited support. Each piece sold will be numbered so you will know that you are one of the many who helped make a difference.
Bibi van der Velden

The earring in support of Ukraine is part of the Alligator collection, which includes rings, but above all earrings-pendants in gold, silver and stones such as brown diamonds, tsavorite or chalcedony.

Anello in oro giallo e tsavorite
Anello in oro giallo e tsavorite
Orecchino tondo in oro giallo 18 carati, tsavorite
Orecchino tondo in oro giallo 18 carati, tsavorite
Orecchino in oro bianco 18 carati con diamante bianco e calcedonio blu
Orecchino in oro bianco 18 carati con diamante bianco e calcedonio blu
Earcuff in oro giallo 18 carati, argento sterling, diamanti brown
Earcuff in oro giallo 18 carati, argento sterling, diamanti brown
Orecchino in oro rosa 18 carati, zaffiri colorati, tsavorite
Orecchino in oro rosa 18 carati, zaffiri colorati, tsavorite







War in Ukraine and jewelry: what impact will it have?




What impact will the invasion of Ukraine and the war unleashed by Russia have on the world of jewelry? A question posed in Italy by the Goldsmiths Club and Intesa Sanpaolo, the largest bank in Italy. To understand this, an investigation was carried out for the first time involving the members of the Goldsmiths’ Club, an association that brings together the most important companies in the Italian goldsmith industry. The result is a photograph of the state of health of the sector, but also of the strategic indications that follow the conflict. It is not hazardous to think that the same concerns also involve jewelry companies residing in other countries. The result, presented in the context of Vicenzaoro, leaves no doubt.

Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili
Laboratorio orafo

About 78% of respondents, after the conflict, show a negative impact, with the increase in the prices of raw materials as the greatest criticality indicated by all survey participants. But the ability to react is also significant: 30% of companies are already thinking about organizational changes, in particular through a review of supply channels, but also of price lists and sales channels.

Visitatori a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitatori a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

And to say that the picture that emerged on the Italian goldsmith industry, before the war, is positive. Almost 60% of the interviewees did not suffer a decrease in turnover even during the pandemic year 2020, or it has already completely recovered them in 2021. The Istat turnover index (Italian statistical body) shows a growth in gold and costume jewelery by over 50% in 2021 which brings the levels of 17% above those of 2019, a figure clearly above the manufacturing average (+ 9%) and above all to the other fashion sectors, which still suffer from a gap with respect to pre -pandemic.

L'incastonatura di uno smeraldo, laboratorio de Grisogono
L’incastonatura di uno smeraldo

Competitiveness on international markets is crucial for the recovery of the sector, with exports reaching an all-time record of 8.5 billion euros for gold and costume jewelery and 7.5 billion for gold jewelery alone, thanks to the excellent results achieved on all markets, in particular the United States, which strengthen its role as a first outlet. But in this atmosphere of widespread optimism, with over 73% of companies expecting further growth in turnover in 2022, the investigation by the Goldsmiths Club highlighted concerns as early as January, due to the increase in the prices of raw materials. and delays in procurement.

Laboratorio Garavelli, la scelta delle pietre
Laboratorio Garavelli, la scelta delle pietre

The companies in the sector, however, seem ready for the challenge: 60% have increased their investments in the last two years, despite the pandemic, with particular attention to training and human capital, which received the highest scores in terms of priority and was indicated by only 5% of the sample as not relevant. This is followed by the digitization of the production phase, Research and Development and the enhancement of the brand. In short, the gaze goes beyond war.

Lavorazione di gioielleria
Lavorazione di gioielleria







From Kidult support for Ukrainian refugees




There are also signs of solidarity for Ukraine from the world of jewelry. Like that of Kidult, the Italian brand of bijoux at affordable prices, which is activated with a new project. together with Cesvi, a secular and independent humanitarian organization founded in 1985, which immediately activated itself with the Ukraine Emergency project to support the millions of refugees, almost half of whom are children, on the various gates with neighboring countries.

Bracciale per la festa del papà
Bracciale per la festa del papà

Mabina (the company that owns the Kidult brand) has decided to support Cesvi, donating 20% of the turnover generated by the purchases made on the website www.discoverkidult.com in the period between March 15th and April 15th. In 2020 Kidult has already supported several initiatives to fight covid.
Bracciale con pietre brown
Bracciale con pietre brown

Bracciale in acciaio
Bracciale in acciaio







The jewelers that close in Russia




The real drama is that of human lives lost in vain, of overwhelmed lives, of lives that will never be the same. But the war in Ukraine also causes a smaller, much smaller, but not irrelevant, drama related to jobs, in the West and in Russia, which will be lost to a stupid aggression. Both Russians and Westerners are dealing with the inevitable sanctions announced in time, before the invasion, which will have an impact on the accounts of companies, for example those of jewelry, as well as on the people who work there. The collapse of the ruble and the blocking of the credit card service, in fact, led many jewelry companies to suspend their business. Maybe they will close completely or reopen, if it all ends, but who knows when.

Boutique De Beers a Mosca
Boutique De Beers a Mosca

At the time of writing this short article, the last Western brand to close the boutique in Moscow was Swarovski, while Tiffany was among the first to lower the shutter, along with Vuitton. Others have already done so, others will follow. The list of Western Maisons that have opened a boutique in Moscow, St. Petersburg or other Russian cities is long. In Moscow, for example, they have a boutique Chopard, Van Cleef & Arpels, Akillis, Piaget, De Beers, H. Stern, Stephen Webster, Carrera y Carrera, Mauboussin, Mont-Blanc, Dior, Chaumet, Pandora, Frey Wille, Cartier , Trollbeads, Vuitton, Thomas Sabo, Bulgari, Pomellato, Adamas, Damiani, Buccellati. Other brands, such as Pasquale Bruni or Alcozer, are distributed in non-owned jewelers, or in airport duty free shops.
Boutique Damiani a Mosca
Boutique Damiani a Mosca

According to an analysis concerning Italian jewelery conducted by ICE (the state body for exports) in general, the Russian buyer is oriented towards medium or medium-high level jewelery. Also according to the analysis, the daily use of rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces, especially in the capital and large cities, is now seen as a form of accessory to one’s image, not necessarily combined with luxury clothing or for events special. The favorite items of Russian women are rings, chains and earrings; men prefer chains and bracelets, while brooches and necklaces are bought by a minority of the female population, while typically male jewelry such as cufflinks and tie pins are in low demand. In recent years, however, silver jewelery has been more successful than gold, due to the unfavorable ruble-euro exchange rate. Italy (2019 data) exports about 77 million jewels to Russia, about 22 million France, the United States 21 million and the United Kingdom 23 million. However, the one who exports the most to Russia is China with over 88 million.
Boutique Tiffany a Mosca
Boutique Tiffany a Mosca

Boutique Cartier a Mosca
Boutique Cartier a Mosca







The Ukrainian crisis raises the price of diamonds




There are more important things than jewelry, when life is at stake. But this does not take away the fact that the operators of the jewelry, and even those who want to buy a precious object, are wondering what the effects of the war in Ukraine will be. One consequence can already be deduced: diamonds will cost more. And gold too. One thing, in fact, is certain: the United States has sanctioned one of the largest extractive companies, the Russian Alrosa. The blockade is part of the halt to a number of Russian companies as a result of the invasion of Ukraine.

Il diamante è stato ricavato da una pietra grezza di 179 carati
Diamante di Alrosa ricavato da una pietra grezza di 179 carati

Alrosa is the world’s largest diamond producer by volume and increased its sales by 49% last year. In 2021, it mined 32.4 million carats, with sales exceeding $ 4 billion. The US government explained that the Russian company is responsible for 90% of the diamond mining capacity, an amount that represents 28% globally. And the Russian government holds a 33% stake in the company. In short, when you buy Alrosa diamonds, at least a third of the profits go straight to the Kremlin, not counting the proceeds from taxes. The sanctions decided, however, do not provide for the freezing of Alrosa’s assets, nor a complete ban on doing business with the company.
Diamante con con taglio fancy
Diamante con con taglio fancy

Furthermore, the penalties do not apply to diamonds purchased by Alrosa before February 24, 2022. But the block will have an effect on the near future: all open deals with terms longer than 14 days should be modified to shorten the terms and / or closed quickly. There is also the problem of the embargo on Russian banks, which makes any transaction with normal financial channels difficult if not impossible.
Esame gemmologico di un diamante
Esame gemmologico di un diamante

JVC also advises any US company currently in business beyond. Among the oligarchs affected by the blockade is the chief executive of Alrosa, Sergey Ivanov Jr., son of Sergey Ivanov Sr., a senior Kremlin official who is on the list of targeted citizens. In fact, he is on the board of Gazprombank, the third Russian financial institution and other sanctioned body.

And what about gold? When the war broke out, the price per ounce jumped above $ 1900. Not surprising, given that gold is considered a safe haven asset. But its value remains linked to the progress of the Ukrainian crisis. Until the conflict is over, with a convincing pacification process, the price of the yellow metal will remain hot until it becomes, perhaps, incandescent.

Lingotti d'oro
Lingotti d’oro







The global gems of Nomad’s




History of Nomad’s, precious stones involved in History, with the initial capital letter. The company is one of the most dynamic in the gem industry and was born in Ukraine after the fall of the Soviet Union. In those years Mikola Kukharuk worked in a company that extracted quartz for optical use. But the company was discarding beryl, topaz and quartz crystals: for the economy of the country’s, at the time, they did not interest.

Granato spessartite di 38 carati
Granato spessartite di 38 carati

So four friends, Mikola, Slavik, Max and Olli, thought of using the discarded semi precious stones. They studied, read, inquired and, over time, moved to Bangkok, one of the world capitals of the precious stones market. The mission of the young Ukrainians also included a life spent from one mine to another, in search of the best gems. A nomadic life. And for this they founded the company with the name of Nomad’s. And after beryl and topaz, the company has expanded its range of action to a wide variety of gems, such as tourmaline, spinel, peridot, aquamarine, garnet and sapphire.
Tormalina rosa di 11,35 carati
Tormalina rosa di 11,35 carati

Over the years Nomad’s has become known for its ability to choose and cut gems, unique pieces that are used in the best jewelry industry. In the meantime, the company has become a tribe of artists, scientists, gemologists, traders and explorers. Nomad does not sell directly to private individuals: it is aimed at jewelers. But if you want to buy a stone to have it mounted on a ring by your jeweler you can use the website and send a request to find out where you can find it.

Tanzanite di 32,89 carati
Tanzanite di 32,89 carati
Rubellite di 20,85 carati
Rubellite di 20,85 carati

Tormalina Erongo Lagoon di 16,51 carati
Tormalina Erongo Lagoon di 16,51 carati