smeraldi Archives | gioiellis.com

Joseph Gad, life in green

Published on November 28, 2023

Orecchini pendenti con smeraldi taglio pera e diamanti

The green philosophy of Joseph Gad: at the center of great jewels put great emeralds ♦

Green is the color of grass, of hope and of emeralds. And it is the color that the Gad family has chosen, which continues the tradition of the founder, Joseph Gad, who in 1960 embarked on the path of high jewelery. With a marked preference for green, ie for emeralds, even if it offers jewelery with other gems. And, more particularly, for the emeralds of Colombia, occasionally combined with diamonds or sapphires and rubies. Since then it has become the world’s leading source of precious and rare and rare diamonds.

Anello in oro bianco con smeraldo e diamanti taglio marquise

In 1968, the Gad family became an exclusive partner of the Muzo Mine in Bogata, Colombia. In 1975 the Gad family was instrumental in legalizing the export of emeralds from Colombia to the United States. As a pioneer member of the Responsible Jewelry Council, in any case, the Maison of New York City is committed to ethically finding all the materials, all of which are traceable.

All emeralds are cut and polished at home, with the aim of enhancing their qualities.

However, jewels made with large emeralds are not the only ones. Joseph Gad also designs and manufactures great jewels with other precious stones. In addition, the company also buys vintage jewelry, especially those with exceptional emeralds. Margherita Donato

Joseph Gad, anello con smeraldo taglio smeraldo

Orecchini pendenti con smeraldi e diamanti

Orecchini pendenti con smeraldi taglio pera e diamanti marquise

Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti fancy yellow

Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti taglio marquise

Orecchini con rubino e diamanti — Orecchini con rubini e diamanti

The treasures by Como Gioielli

Published on August 16, 2023

Showroom

Salvatore Como Gioielli, the virtuosity of the Valencia school.

Salvatore Como Gioielli is an artisan jewelery company created by Salvatore Scibetta. Goldsmith, jeweler, designer, after having worked for companies such as Santagostino, Crova and Cantamessa, Scibetta decided to set up on his own in 2007. Even if it is called with the name of a Lombard city, Salvatore Como Gioielli is based in Valenza, in the Italian luxury jewelry. Scibetta immediately put the accumulated experience to good use to design and produce unique pieces of the highest quality. But most of the production is towards other brands, which require the ability and experience of Como Gioielli.

Como Gioielli, aneli polpo e orecchini palla, in oro e zaffiri — Como Gioielli, octopus rings and ball earrings, in gold and sapphires

For example, the company is capable of producing pieces such as the emerald necklace in 18-karat white gold, with natural stones for 43 carats, emerald earrings in 18-karat white gold, the Margherita collection, with an adaptable multi-size ring in 18-karat white gold , diamonds, emeralds, rubies and natural sapphires. Finally, an 18-karat red gold slave bracelet with 22-carat natural white diamonds. Or the series of jewels inspired by the marine world, with octopuses and stars in gold, diamonds and sapphires: a work that only the most skilful Maisons can produce.

Anello a forma di polipo in oro rosa, diamanti e zaffiri rosa — Octopus-shaped ring in pink gold, diamonds and pink sapphires

Collana in oro e diamanti — Gold and diamond necklace

Bracciale in oro 750 e diamanti interamente eseguito a mano — Bracelet in 750 gold and diamonds entirely handmade

Bracciale in oro 750 e diamanti interamente eseguito a mano. Sottobracciale intercambiabile in pelle di galuchat — Bracelet in 750 gold and diamonds entirely handmade. Interchangeable under bracelet in galuchat leather

Andreoli hero of two worlds

Published on February 23, 2023

Showroom

Anello in oro con zaffiri rosa e ametista

From the sale of carpets in India,to Valenza, till up to the headquarters in Rockefeller Center in New York, so here is the high jewelry by Andreoli.
The work in Valenza, the success in the US. Andreoli is an American brand of haute joaillerie that started its journey in Italy in 1945, when the Hadjibay family has established itself in the trade of precious stones (we have also spoken here). Since 1970, the company has evolved and keeps the design and realization of pieces of fine jewelery in Valenza, Italy, while the market on which it operates is the American one. Seen the origins, not surprising that the protagonists of the collections are large stones, like brilliant diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires, as well as pearls, coral and turquoise. Not only that: in addition to gold Andreoli uses also platinum and titanium to create even impressive jewels, such as the large necklace with over 850 carats of rubies and 20 grams of beads. It must not be easy to wear in casual manner. The helm of the company is governed now by Caroline Hadjibay, who took the baton from Jack Hadjibay patriarch from his headquarters in Rockefeller Center in New York.

Spilla a forma di rosa composta con 65,41 carati di zaffiri, oro e titanio — Spilla composta con 65,41 carati di zaffiri, oro e titanio

And to say that the history of the family started by Abraham Hadjibay, in India, where he sold the best Persian carpets. But we must add that Abraham’s father had sold gems to the czar of Russia. Abraham Hadjibay has focused from carpets to jewelery, the trade in precious stones. The son, Jack Hadjibay, then continued the business. The activity of the brand Andreoli, however, originated in Valenza, Italy, where it was founded in 1845. In 1920 Andreoli has launched her prêt-à-porter collection and immediately achieved success around the world. The two stories together have led to what is now one of the most famous brand of high jewelery.

Bracciale in oro bianco con diamanti e rubini

Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo con turchesi e diamanti — Orecchini in oro giallo con turchesi e diamanti

Spilla a forma di rindine con diamanti bianchi e neri — Spilla con diamanti bianchi e neri

Anello in oro, argento, diamanti, peridoto

Alberti, the classic for all

Published on February 22, 2023

Showroom

Alberti, anelli con tsavorite, prasiolite, ametista, topazio. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Alberti, a company in Valenza (Italy) that develops jewellery, from design to final creation ♦

Alberti: the beauty of jewelry without exaggerating. In Valenza, in the goldsmith tradition of the Piedmontese jewelery district, since 1974 the company has been offering the processing of rings and pendants made according to the good habits consolidated by the centuries-old tradition. The company was born from the initiative of an ambitious and young sales person, who collaborated with a passionate production manager, with extensive experience in making superior quality jewellery. The idea, respected, was to propose classic jewels, which were then renewed over time.

Gioielli di Alberti in oro, diamanti, pietre semi preziose

Alberti is one of those brands where a solitaire ring corresponds exactly to a solitaire ring: a brilliant cut diamond on a white gold circle, without distorting the basic idea of the jewel. The rings have their large gemstone, emerald, diamond or sapphire, surrounded by a crown of small brilliant-cut diamonds on white gold. Classics. But that’s not all: there is no shortage of jewels with original combinations of gems or very modern designs, as in the rings seen at Vicenzaoro. The company also manufactures jewelry for third parties, which it sells largely on international markets.

Anello in oro bianco con tormalina paraiba

Little H’s sandwich pearls

Published on July 9, 2022

COLLANE/perle/Rings

Pearls that hide rubies or emeralds: the jewels of Little H are really different from the others ♦ ︎
The cult of pearls originated in Japan, but not all Japanese consider pearls as an untouchable symbol of the perfection of nature. Pearls can be used, worked, opened, excavated, modified: and that’s what Hisano Shepherd does. Born in Japan, but growing up between Tokyo and Los Angeles, where she resides today, the designer began designing jewelry as a girl. “My grandmother took me to the Takarazuka theater, a female theatrical group and wore her most precious jewels. In particular, I remember his emerald engagement ring and cocktail rings with opals”, says Hisano Shepherd.

Orecchini con perle barocche in cui sono incastonati semi di perle

His contact with jewelry began with the study of goldsmithing techniques during high school and then with specializations between Los Angeles and New York. She then started to practice in a repair and polishing workshop for a fashion jewelry producer, until she focused his creative path and founded his Maison, Little H. Today she works mainly with pearls, round or baroque. But in an absolutely original way: the spherical fruit of the oysters is worked up to house rubies, sapphires and emeralds. They are sea pearls or freshwater pearls, perfectly round or with irregular volume, white or colored. And maybe split in half. A collection, for example, is called Pearl Geode, for which it has also filed a patent application.

Anello con perla Edison lavanda e tormaline

Orecchini pendenti con tormaline a spirale e geode di agata

Bijan & Co, gems for queens

Published on March 12, 2022

COLLANE/alta gioielleria

Jewels worthy of queens of Bijan & Co, New York brand ♦ ︎
It defines itself as a brand specialized in majestic jewels, suitable for a queen. For once, the description is not excessive. Bijan & Co., in New York, is a company that collects jewels of known or unknown brands, but all of great value. Large necklaces of diamonds and precious stones, massive earrings for size and value, bracelets worthy of a maharani: these are pieces that can cost tens of thousands of dollars and, in some cases, exceed one million.

Exceptional pieces that the family-run company, led by Eliot Elihu, is able to find on the market and resell all over the world, especially in countries where the number of zeros following a figure is less important. The quality of the proposed jewels is called “museum”. They are pieces, that is, that not only have a value for quantity and size, that is, for the number of carats of the stones, but also for their quality that is at the highest level. The jewels that the brand shows every year are there to prove it.

Collana con diamanti e smeraldi a goccia

Collana con diamanti e smeraldi di Bijan & Co

collana rubini diamanti — Collana con diamanti e rubini

Collana con diamanti e smeraldi taglio smeraldo

Zoë Chicco, from Florence to Los Angeles

Published on February 23, 2022

Showroom/COLLANE

Zoë Chicco’s new jewels, even those with Gemfields emeralds ♦

Italian surname, but she is born in Pennsylvania: Zoë Chicco has convinced stars like Giselle Bundchen, Sofia Vergara, Cameron Diaz, Dakota Fanning, Demi Moore, Penelope Cruz, Jessica Simpson, Uma Thurman or Marisa Tomei that her jewelry is cool. And within 15 years he has managed to be present in more than 100 stores in the US, and more she is selling online through its website. She is curious, loves to travel, oriented towards simplicity without obsucure her fantasy, Zoë Chicco is based in Los Angeles, where she has a staff that creates its handcrafted jewelry lines.

She works in 14k gold, oxidized silver and diamonds. It has become designers after proper training: she started designing jewelry at a very early age. She attended the Skidmore College in Saratoga Springs, New York, and then was in Florence, at the Studio Arts Center International. In Italy he then shot here and there between centers specialized in the processing of jewelry. Her dog is named Rocco, another link with Italy. Here are some examples of his work.

Anello in oro 14 carati con diamanti taglio pera e smeraldo

Collana Mama in oro 14 carati con pendente e pavé di diamanti

Collana in oro 14 carati con pendente e pavé di diamanti

How to clean cameos, pearls, emeralds, opals, crystals

Published on February 19, 2022

Campus/perle

How do you clean a fragile piece of jewelry, which can easily be ruined? Here are the rules to follow to clean a jewel without damaging it ♦
Maybe you have fragile, delicate jewels in your drawer. It is very easy: most of the jewels are not made with very hard stones, such as diamonds or rubies, which are more resistant stones (although despite this they can still be damaged). There are also materials that are damaged or scratched very easily, for example cameos, pearls, emeralds, opals, crystals. And the materials that are glued are also fragile, such as the stones that make up a pavé.

Attention, therefore: this type of jewelry must be treated very, very carefully. Especially when it is necessary to clean them, an operation that must be repeated regularly. By the way: even better than cleaning jewelry is to prevent it from getting dirty. Don’t wear them if you have to do gardening, wash the dishes, or if you are going to sprinkle yourself with a cream, or any other action that has to do with dirt and chemicals.

Fortunately, it is not difficult to clean a delicate jewel, as long as you follow these tips.

Mossa 1: immergere il gioiello in una tazza d'acqua — Mossa 1: immergere il gioiello in una tazza d’acqua

Mossa 2: aggiungere una goccia di sapone liquido neutro. Eventualmente utilizzare uno spazzolino morbido

Materials to use

Warm water
Liquid neutral soap (to avoid antibacterials and aggressive soaps)
Soft cloth: an old cotton T-shirt or microfibre is fine
A soft toothbrush, preferably with natural bristles

How to do

Mix warm water (neither hot nor cold) with a drop of neutral soap in a glass or on a concave dish. When the mixture boils a little and has diluted well, dip the jewels and let stand for two minutes. If dust has settled in the cracks (for example, between a stone and the metal), use the soft bristle brush very gently. Focus mainly on the underside. Make sure to rinse the solution well, always with lukewarm water: soap residues can damage the stones. When finished, dry gently with a soft cloth.

Cameos or emeralds

We can add a separate tip for cleaning cameos or emeralds. In addition to following the instructions you read earlier, in this case you can use the oil that is used for the body of babies. Emeralds, for example, can get damaged due to micro cracks, almost invisible, but which tend to widen: a drop of oil can prevent them from further ruining.
Caution

Warning: these indications are generic. Obviously, if you have a very old or particularly delicate jewel at home, ask your trusted jeweler for advice before carrying out any operations that could ruin it. Lavinia Andorno

Orecchini con perle South Sea e diamanti

Collana di perle coltivate a quattro fili venduta per 40.0000 euro

Bracciale Tudor Rose, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle

Bina Goenka, incredible India

Published on January 8, 2022

Showroom

Anello con rubini Gemfields del Mozambico

The extraordinary jewels of the Indian designer Bina Goenka, pieces of goldsmith virtuosity between Mumbai and London.

A jewel of Bina Goenka often is exceeding the price of 100,000 Euros or dollars. Yet they were also sold online by Net-a-porter. The images on this page help you understand why this Indian designers, based in Mumbai, but you can also meet her in London (by appointment) is one of the stars of high jewelery. They know well the customers of Grand Hyatt Plaza Hotel in Mumbai, where the designer is present with her jewels since 2007, when she opened his flagship store.

Orecchini con smeraldi di Colombia e Zambia, turchesi

No wonder that his elaborate necklaces, earrings that seem to puzzle to maharajas or the broochs that resemble the work of some Flemish painters of the seventeenth century, are coveted by movie stars, wealthy industrialists, and members of royal families. She, Bina Goenka, founder and Ceo of the brand that bears his name, designs and produces only few pieces per year: it could not be otherwise, since to build one it takes three to four months, not to mention the selection of stones and the time devoted to design unique pieces. geometric designs and patterns that are found in the natural world are sources of inspiration for this gem artist.

Orecchini in oro giallo e bianco, madreperla, rubini, diamanti

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, perle e diamanti

Orecchini con rubini Gemfields del Mozambico, turchesi, diamanti, perle South Sea

Orecchini con smeraldi colombiani, perle Akoya

The jewels of the gem hunter Judy Geib

Published on January 5, 2022

Showroom/Design

Orecchini con smeraldi colombiani su oro 22 e 18 carati

The adventurous emeralds (and all the rest) of the gem hunter Judy Geib ♦ ︎

From Pennsylvania to New York to look for emeralds. All right, there are no green stone mines in Manhattan, but the jewels of Judy Geib are found, which has a special passion for emeralds. In fact, she uses them extensively for her collections. The stones have fascinated the designer since she was a child, when she collected minerals. But Judy Geib’s life changed dramatically when, at some point in her life, she followed her family to Brazil, while Judy was a teenager. If you add to this the studies of art and design, you understand why at some point decided to work herself with metal and precious stones. In 2002 she launched his first collection of pieces at the Barneys (a chain of luxury stores) in New York.

Collana con smeraldi colombiani, oro a 22 e 18 carati

Judy Geib’s jewels are at the same time precious and light-hearted. A bit flower power, a little Coachella, a little ethnic, with a thought at work by Suzanne Belperron. But with gold that, sometimes, is used in its purest, 24-carat state. Or oxidized silver with almost baroque processing. In addition to emeralds, his favorite stone, she travels the world in search of paraiba tourmalines, rubies, sapphires, aquamarines, kunzites, pink and green tourmalines. However, her favorite destination for emeralds is Colombia. Not without some misadventure, she says.

Collana in oro 22 e 18 carati, argento, con opale nero

Orecchini Swoosh Extravagant in oro e diamanti

Collar Peter Pan in oro 18 carati e rubini

Diamonds? I’ll explain how to avoid bad purchases

Published on October 16, 2021

Campus

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show

Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires: which is their value? How to recognize them? Some people buy them to make up for something, someone to love, for others is a safe haven investment. Whatever the motivation, the opinion of an expert is crucial. Mainly because when it comes to diamonds, there are parameters which are a kind of list of basis for the listing, but for colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires the matter is not simple. What to be careful and what criteria adopted for the selection, is explained by Pio Visconti, Italian Gemological Institute lecturer, consultant of many regional entity and owner of the Gemological Centre based in Valenza. The proof that it is a famous gemologist, lies in the fact that his skill is cited as a guarantee in the auction catalogs, in case of its certification of the jewel. «How to evaluate a stone? If you were to buy a Rolex goes from the authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?», says in this interview with Gioiellis.com .

Question. Which among the famous four C carat, color, clarity and cut, it is more important when choosing a diamond?Answer. The criterion that must prevail, in my opinion, is cut. Of course weight, color and clarity are important, but because spending a stone IF 40 points and 70 points maybe a Vs2 is quite similar, the fact remains that when the diamond is set must shine on the frame, it must be a mountain of light, as the ancients said, and this can only be achieved with a good cut.

Q. But those who are not in the industry how can recognize a good job? They only rely on their aesthetic sense?

A. In the certificate are visible the numbers that refer to the values of the upper part, for example 57 %, and the height of the crown 14%. To the customer does not say anything and that is why beside is written the analyst’s judgment: excellent, good, average, as proportions or as accuracy. Ultimately, I’d recommend a diamond cut-out great, because the other criteria are linked to the price.

Q. What do you do if the certificate does not exist?

A. I do have a question: if you were to buy a Rolex goes from authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?

Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi

Q. Many well-known brands are keen to highlight the exclusive use of certified diamonds, but there is the risk of receiving the certificate of another gem?

A. Anything can happen, but ruining his reputation for a non-transparent behavior for little gems of value is not worth it, especially since it takes very little to turn into a business catastrophe. In cases of very rare stones, the diamond is sealed with his certificate inside, even in the last decade is increasingly the request of engraving the certificate number on the girdle of the stone itself.

Q. The race to the certification also depends on the remarkable technological developments in producing synthetic diamonds that are derived from carbon yes, but made in a laboratory, and on the increasing of the number of natural stones modified by man to make them look more beautiful. The Gemological Institute of America (Gia), has even developed a 3D software to mask false. Does it work?

A. It is one more tool, but alone is not enough. The job of the gemologist is to identify the authenticity of the stone with a suitable instrumentation. In addition, there is a price list of the maximum for each of the 4 C, but the precise value is determined by supply and demand. Traders can even evaluate the stone without even seeing her, precisely because the certificate is authentic. Things however, is terribly complicated with colored stones: no certifying agency in the world is able to identify parameters in a serious manner that may suggest the value of an emerald, a ruby and a sapphire. And for precious stones is even worse.

Q. It is said that the origin of the gems will determine the quality. It is true that the Burmese rubies are the most beautiful, as well as Colombian emeralds need to be?

A. It is a simplification: it is known that a Burmese ruby usually has the characteristics of exceptional color because it is bright red, shiny, without saturation of dark tone or purple, almost the shade of the Ferrari cars to be understood. This does not mean that similar stones can not be found even in deposits of other countries, but they are certainly rarer. For example, those thai have excellent transparency, but also a purplish tinge, or a very small saturation blue. The same applies to emeralds: some exemplar, magnificent for color and transparency, the typical characteristics of beryl Colombians, were discovered in Brazil. Sapphires of Kasmhir are of a incomparable blue, but rare, while those of Ceylon are lighter but warmer tinge and, yet, those of Siam are of a very intense shade.

D. If the origin does not guarantee the quality, what about the cut?

A. The colored stones have most complicated crystal systems than diamonds, what matters is a good symmetry and uniformity color view from above, because you will never get this profile. For this reason, a cut not perfectly centered is acceptable in emeralds, rubies and sapphires. On the contrary, it is unacceptable in a diamond.

Q. And it always comes back to cutting …

A. Make the most of both the weight and the color of the gem depends on the skill of the cutter: Australian sapphires are very dark with a greenish overtones and therefore unloved, they are usually sliced thin enough to avoid accentuating the gloom. Instead, those from Ceylon with very nice shades, but not so intense, have a much larger pavilion to enhance the color.

Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms

Q. But then the criterion of choice for these stones is the color?

A. Yes, it must be as pure as possible, reflect the idea of green or red or blue we have. Obviously, I do not see inclusions with the naked eye, maybe you can help me with a diopter glasses or two, because imperfections will lower the value. And if you happen to want to do some shopping while traveling, before you buy a stone better go before a certifying agency of the place.

Anello Margot con zaffiro taglio pera e diamanti

Q. What are the most common counterfeits and the most economically harmful? We often hear about emeralds “No Oil ” as a sign of authenticity. Is also true for rubies and sapphires?

A. Of all the treatments mentioned is that most harmless and also the oldest: Plinius mentions in his writings that make for the most beautiful emeralds was enough to soak them in the oil. The micro-fractures resin impregnated: yes those who are serious. For sapphires the most resounding method is thermo-diffusion, which tinged with blue a natural corundum completely colorless and reduces the value one-tenth. The outcome? A gem from 70 euro including treatment, may also be assessed 1,200 Euros. While the roots of ruby, so named because opaque, are rubies of very low quality, that with a very sophisticated technique, receive infiltration glass. Are generally lead to increase the effect, in order to make the rubies completely transparent. So, a 4 -carat stone of the cost to trade effortlessly exceed 100 dollars, has the same appearance of one evaluated a 5 thousand dollars.

Q. So the certification agency guarantees the authenticity and origin of the product?

A. Yes, it checks whether it is natural or synthetic , in the first case, it has undergone treatment. Thanks to the inclusions, which are the traces of the rock in which the rock was formed, it is possible to trace the geographical area. Value there is a very wide gap related to trade, fashion, personal perception.

Pietre di colore: zaffiro, rubino, rubellite e zaffiro giallo

Sotheby’s is putting marahaja glasses up for auction

Published on October 8, 2021

news

I due occhiali Astaneh Ye Ferdaws (smeraldi) e Halqeh Ye Nur (diamanti)

The charm of exotic and precious jewels: Sotheby’s dedicates an auction to the theme Arts of the Islamic World & India. Most of the pieces concern objects, carpets, prints, paintings. But there are also jewels. And two, in particular, attract attention: they are glasses from an unknown princely treasure. The truly unique aspect of these glasses is that they are made with diamonds and emeralds. The auction estimate (London, October 27) for these unique jewels is 1.5 – 2.5 million pounds each. They can be seen by the public in Hong Kong (October 7-11) and London (October 22-26).

These extraordinary curiosities bring together myriad threads – from the technical mastery of the cutter and the genius of craftsmanship to the vision of a patron who chose to fashion two pairs of eyeglasses quite unlike anything ever seen before. They are undoubtedly a marvel for gemologists and historians alike, and it is a real thrill to be able to bring these treasures to light and to offer the world the opportunity to wonder at their brilliance and the mystery behind their creation.
Edward Gibbs, president of Sotheby’s Middle East & India

The history of these glasses begins in 17th-century Mughal India, at a time when imperial wealth, scientific knowledge and artistic endeavor simultaneously reached their peak. Commissioned by an unknown prince, an artist carved a diamond weighing over 200 carats and a brilliant emerald weighing at least 300 carats. Evidence of the technical skill involved, there is no known existence of any comparable example of both. Around 1890, the lenses were inserted into new frames, decorated with rose-cut diamonds.

The original patron for whom the glasses were commissioned remains unknown, but they stem from a rich period of artistic and architectural achievement during the reigns of the Great Mughal of the Akbar emperors (1556-1605), Jahangir (1605-1627), Shah Jahan (1627 -1658) and Aurangzeb (1658-1707).

The quality and purity of the gems is in itself extraordinary and stones of this size would undoubtedly have been an emperor’s reserve. The diamonds are flawless, thought to come from the Golconda mines in South India. Cut in pairs from a single natural diamond, possibly the largest ever found, they now weigh 25 carats together. The facet around the edge shows extreme skill, arranged to maintain transparency in the lenses while releasing light from the edges. The emeralds also come from a single natural Colombian gem and now weigh 27 carats. The bevel of the emeralds has been precisely angled to maintain the intensity of the color in the stone.

While ordinary lenses work simply to improve vision, these filters were aids for a spiritual function, with diamonds meant to illuminate and emeralds believed to possess miraculous powers to heal and ward off evil. In the work Naturalis historia, a treatise that dates back to the first century, Pliny the Elder tells that the Roman emperor Nero observed the gladiator contests through the surface of a precious green stone. Nero’s tutor, Seneca, was an expert in refraction of light, mirrors and optics, and these are thought to have been one of the first glasses ever. Many centuries later, an inventory of the treasure of Charles V of France mentions beryls (a family of precious stones, which includes emerald and aquamarine) framed like spectacles.

Collana del Deccan, con gemme. Circa Ottocento

Closer to where these examples originate, in India, following the tragic death of Shah Jahan’s beloved wife, in whose honor the Taj Mahal was painstakingly built, the emperor is said to have wept so many tears that he had need to heal his sick eyes with emerald gems.

Set di gioielli del Marocco, 18-19esimo secolo

Collana in argento dorato. Marocco, Ottocento

Collana Moghul con perle e smeraldo intagliato

The new jewelry by Vania Leles

Published on August 26, 2021

Rings/bracciale

Orecchini floreali in oro rosa, titanio, rubini del Mozambico

The new jewels by Vania Leles, with the most precious African gems ♦

The legacy of Africa seen through the eyes of a former model of the great jewelery brands who has learned to love precious stones: we have already talked about Vania Leles. The model, now a designer, continues her mission to enhance the precious fruits that come from the African land. The result is high-end fine jewelry. Vania Leles prefers single-colored jewels: all rubies, or all emeralds, all diamonds.

Also read: Vania Leles rubies

Bracciale in oro bianco con diamanti e smeraldi dello Zambia

Descending from the catwalk and leaving the photographic studios, Vania entered the halls of the Gemological Institute of America (Gia), where she learned the secrets of precious stones. After graduating, the designer moved to London and worked for Graff Diamonds, De Beers and Sotheby’s Jewelery Department, where she oversaw the auctions of some of the most prestigious pieces of the century, such as the jewels of the Duchess of Windsor and the Graff Pink, one of the most expensive jewels ever sold at auction. Finally, in 2011 she decided to found her jewelery brand, using high quality diamonds that come from countries without conflict. Vania Leles was one of the designers included in Sotheby’s selection, on show and sale in New York, entitled Brilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance.

Orecchini Kilimanjaro in oro bianco, titanio, diamanti bianchi

Anello Kilimanjaro in oro bianco, titanio, diamanti bianchi

Orecchini Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e neri

Anello in oro rosa, diamanti e rubini del Mozambico, rubellite

The moving jewelry by Paula Mendoza

Published on August 13, 2021

Showroom/Rings

Anello in oro 18 carati con smeraldo trapiche

Paula Mendoza, Latin America and emeralds with a difference ♦

Paula Mendoza’s jewels are extravagant, full of light and decidedly sculptural. The Colombian designer, who in a few years has conquered the American market, also thanks to Beyoncé’s XO video, who sings while wearing her pieces, continues to experiment with new forms: after the myriad of bronze or 24 gold-plated brass spheres. carats and of course emeralds. With a particular choice: she also uses trapiche emeralds. They are emeralds named after a grinding wheel used in Colombia to work sugar cane.These stones have inclusions that resemble a spoked wheel with a hexagonal core.

The jewels, with a very geometric design with removable elements to change the shape of the object, are in fact structures designed to be hung, a bit like those of the American sculptor who was one of the first to invent a sort of abstract art in movement. On the other hand, Mendoza, after studying journalism in Bogota, decided to learn the goldsmith’s art from local artisans not only in her country but also in Peru and later to apply herself in drawing and sculpture in the United States. This happened in 2008, now they say there is a waiting list for some of her unique pieces.

Anello in oro 18 carati con tre smeraldi, di cui uno trapiche

Orecchini in oro 18 carati con smeraldi, diamanti bianchi e neri

Maxi collana Magdalena in ottone placcato oro 24 carati

Orecchini Big Star in ottone placcato oro 24 carati

Orecchini a cerchi in ottone placcato oro 24 carati

Collana in ottone placcato oro 24 carati

Jewelry for self pleasure with María José

Published on May 7, 2021

bracciale/Showroom/Rings

Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti su oro bianco 18 carati

A tweet from María José, Mexican gemologist and founder of the jewelry brand with her name, sums up her perspective: “I’m so happy to live between Los Angeles and New York,” she wrote. Originally from Guadalajara, the designer moved to the United States, where she attended the Gemological Institute of America in New York. She also studied jewelry design in Tribeca, the Big Apple neighborhood, where she launched her Maison María José in 2014. In short, she has perfectly integrated into American life and also in style: her jewels, in fact, are modern and in in line with international tastes, with a preference for the use of Colombian emeralds.

She is elegant, luxurious jewelry, but with a touch of informal. The objective explained by the Maison, in fact, is to instill a sense of fun in the collections, so that those who buy a jewel are able to wear the pieces with ease, as much as on official occasions.
Like many of her colleagues, María José Jewelry also supports fair trade practices and ethical manufacturing, core values of the brand. All the stones chosen by the designer come from ethical sources and her jewels are handmade in Los Angeles.

Come molti altri suoi colleghi, anche María José Jewelry sostiene le pratiche del commercio equo e solidale e la produzione etica, valori fondamentali del marchio. Tutte le pietre scelte dalla designer provengono da fonti etiche e i suoi gioielli sono realizzati a mano a Los Angeles.

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldo

Anello in oro bianco con rubini e diamante nero

Collana in oro giallo 18 carati con smeraldi

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiro

Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati con smeraldi

The Ottoman myth of Sevan Biçakçi

Published on April 25, 2021

Showroom/Rings

Anello in oro 24 carati con quarzo e zaffiro

From Turkey, the jewels that have inherited the Ottoman Empire charm, by Sevan Biçakçi ♦

Sevan Biçakçi is a designer wich a style so unique that it can not be compared with any other. Maybe because his carving on translucent materials, performed with dental instruments, is so careful to leave no words. The fact is that the Armenian jeweler likes a lot. Even to those who love a minimalist style.

Anello in oro giallo e bianco, argento e zaffiro blu

In his incredible rings it is usually reproduce monuments of Istanbul, the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, the old Cistern, the portraits of the sultans and the gods, but also flowers, birds, fruits and insects. In fact, in the bottom of aquamarine, quartz, emeralds, sapphires and other gems they are engraved domes, petals, beaks, all miniatures that float in the transparency of the cabochon-cut stones mounted on ornately chiseled ring shank in gold, silver and enamel. In short, there is all the Byzantine artistic tradition and turkish Ottoman Empire, a kind of time machine that seems to be looking at it in the pages of the book written by Orhan Pamuk, My Name is Red, set in Istanbul of the sixteenth century.

His jewels are a myth for over the world and have won a place of honor also for sale at Barneys New York.

Anello in oro giallo, argento e diamanti neri

The series of rings with the Hagia Sophia made it known all over the world, but the real fame, especially in the US and one of the stars of Hollywood comes thanks to Gwyneth Paltrow, who often wears her necklace with a lock, one of the most recognizable themes Biçakçi, who is also one of the symbols of Turkish culture. Used to close the fences around the graves, represented the promise of good deeds in exchange for a merciful treatment for their loved ones, and take it in the neck meant to recall the commitment making valuable the person wearing it. And then the stylized daggers (the name Biçakçi in turkish means knife) on the facts bracelets with metal mesh as the armor of ancient warriors and other decorations typical of the Muslim world which has an important place even calligraphy.

Anello in oro 24 carati, argento, perla barocca, diamante

In his workshop of five floors near the Grand Bazaar and then a few steps from all the most important buildings of the Turkish capital, the goldsmith with his collaborators, ten people, produces a maximum of 500 units a year, because the work d ‘ etching takes a long time. But not only that the notch on the bottom of the stone is a delicate technique, the risk of cracks in the gem is high and if at the end of the day the result is not excellent is thrown away everything. Fortunately the experience of many years of work, more than twenty, also allows to approach the finest materials without too much fear and create even more three-dimensional and colorful objects. As Jar does not work on commission and the price is established only to finished jewelry, although on average, ranging from 10 000 to $ 30,000 for a ring, and $ 3,000 for a simple necklace.

Anello in oro 24 carati con diamanti e ametista

Anello in oro 24 carati con diamanti e quarzo citrino

Collana in argento e oro 24 carati con diamanti bianchi e neri

Anello in oro 24 carati, argento, quarzo intagliato, diamanti

The New York of Rina Limor

Published on March 7, 2021

Showroom/Rings

Anello con tanzaniti cabochon per 19,230 carati

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The couture jewels (and beyond) by Rina Limor, a New York designer who was inspired by Dolce Vita.

As it says Dolce Vita in New York? To find out, the jewelry designer Rina Limor in the seventies has spent long periods in Italy. But, besides admiring the Tuscan landscape, the artistic beauty of the city (and, hopefully, also the kitchen), she has occupied the time by contacting material manufacturers for jewelery, goldsmiths, setters, and so on. The pleasure of the style of Italy’s pleasure-loving, along with her creativity and to the American taste for conspicuous jewelry, has created the style of Rina Limor, now established signature in the panorama of the New York luxury. His proposal is quite wide, ranging from tubogas bracelets or large chains, spare special couture line.

Emeralds, rubies, diamonds and Paraiba tourmalines are used unsparingly. As in jewelry made with a cluster of stones, in some cases cut with fancy shapes, that is, outside of the traditional standards. The effect is unusual, but pleasant. Prices, of course, are what you can expect for luxury jewelry in New York. Giulia Netrese

Anello Calypso in argento e zaffiri multicolori

Lights and colors by Bavna

Published on February 14, 2021

Showroom/bracciale

The colorful and bright jewels by Sunny Jain, Indian by birth but American by adoption, who created Bavna ♦

Sunny by name and by nature. The jewelry designed by Sunny Jain are bright like the sun that illuminates California, where the designer has grown. The love for bright colors, the Bavna designer has acquired since childhood, from his jewelers family originating in India, where he was born. Sunny Jain, in short, has grown up in the midst of jewelry and immediately felt attracted by the colorful world of gems. Yet before turning to rings and necklaces he wanted to graduate in medicine, his second passion. Perhaps the ability to see inside the human body he also added the ability to interpret the soul of the great colored stones used for collections of Bavna, who created in 2011.

A curiosity: the name Bavna in ancient Sanskrit means “good intentions”, it is also his mother’s name, to which the designer is very attached. Her jewelry, often unique pieces designed around stones with unique color were appreciated by Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce, Rihanna, Camila Alves, Eva Mendes, Halle Berry, Christina Hendricks, Kim Kardashian and Anne Hathaway. Lavinia Andorno

Bracciale in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri

Anello in oro con zaffiri blu e acquamarina

How to invest in jewelry

Published on February 12, 2021

Campus

Invest in jewelry? Allocate your savings to rings, necklaces and bracelets? It is a question that repeats itself. The reason is: the stock markets go up, go up, go up. Then, at a certain point, they fall. The yields on bonds are at their lowest and when they are at their highest it is because there is inflation that decreases their yield. In short, for those with savings to invest, choosing is never easy. So, is it a good idea to invest in jewelry? And is investment in jewelry right for you?

Collier con ametiste e turchesi messo all'asta — Collier con ametiste e turchesi messo all’asta

The idea of investing in jewelry has a basis: in recent years (even if 2020 was conditioned by covid) the jewelry auctions of large companies such as Sotheby’s and Christie’s have shown rising prices. But be careful: the jewelry market is volatile and, in some cases, opaque. According to experts, large jewels and precious stones may be a good choice in the long run, but they do not guarantee an increase in value. According to what Laurence Nicolas, global managing director of jewelry and watches for the Sotheby’s auction house said some time ago, what has changed in recent years is the level of prices they reach.

Il diamante ovale da 88 carati messo all'asta — Diamante ovale da 88 carati messo all’asta da Sotheby’s

Invest in diamonds
In 2017, global demand for diamonds hit a record high of $ 82 billion, according to the De Beers annual diamond report, up from $ 80 billion in 2016. Alrosa, in 2020 the online sales of diamond jewelry have almost doubled, reaching about 20% of the total. Diamonds are considered, like gold, a safe haven asset. But beware, their value doesn’t always grow. As with other materials, their value can also drop. Then there is the problem of selling. While gold is easily sold to specialized shops or to a goldsmith, for diamonds it is generally a bit more complicated.
Furthermore, even diamonds are subject to fashions: today consumers are increasingly eager to buy rare and colored diamonds, fancy, and a little less traditional colorless gems. There is only one problem: the most precious ones (pink, blue, yellow) cost a lot. Also because only one in 10,000 diamonds is colored, according to the Gia diamond classification laboratory.

Investing in precious stones
There are not only diamonds. Gemstones are increasingly popular. Rubies, emeralds and sapphires have seen sharp price increases in recent years, according to the Bonhams auction house. There are particularly rare and in demand stones. Based on the auction results, it turns out that Kashmiri sapphires reported a 970% increase in price in the ten years to July 2018. And a similar increase, of 1,100%, concerns some examples of Burmese rubies. The same goes for Colombian emeralds, the most precious. The problem is that these stones now cost a lot. But it may be nice to know that if you have a ring with a Kashmiri sapphire at home you can sell it at a high price.

The Hope Spinel ha stabilito un nuovo record mondiale a un'asta di Bonhams — The Hope Spinel ha stabilito un nuovo record mondiale a un’asta di Bonhams

Invest in jewelry
Jewelery is also subject to cyclical trends. For ten years, according to Knight Frank’s Luxury Investment Index, the performance of jewelry assets outperformed that of the New York real estate market, gold and US equities. But in 2018, the index fell by 5%. Also because global sales of jewelry partly follow the global economic trend. And it is precisely when money is scarce that those who have jewels try to sell them: the moment, however, is the wrong one.
The weak point, however, when considering jewelry as an investment, concerns modern jewelry. Maybe in 30 years they will be in great demand at auctions, but for now it can be very difficult to recover an investment. In short, modern jewels can be worn and enjoyed, but it is rare to sell them even just to receive the money spent on the purchase. Excluding from this reasoning pieces with stones of exceptional value. This does not mean that one should not buy contemporary jewelry, but only that it is more difficult for a bracelet or a ring made today to be re-evaluated soon.

Gioielli all'asta da Sotheby's — Gioielli all’asta da Sotheby’s

Investing in vintage jewelry
As for the jewels of the recent past, certain eras are more attractive. Art Deco jewelery from the 1920s and 1930s and those of the following decades are in fashion. Jewelery from that period signed by prestigious Maison such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are highly appreciated and are less subject to the whims of fashion. Even the jewels of the sixties and seventies begin to be considered period pieces and revalued, provided they are of excellent quality. Also according to the evaluation of auction house experts, the prices of Art Déco and Belle Époque jewels (from 1890 to 1915) increased by 72% between 2007 and 2018. Antecedent pieces, i.e. late nineteenth century, are less considered , at least in recent years.

Spilla art déco del 1925 con lapislazzuli, corallo, giada, onice, diamanti

How to buy jewelry for investment?
Let’s start from a concept: a jewelry store obviously adds a mark-up on the cost of the jewel. In short, it’s fine to buy a jewel to give as a gift, but don’t expect to close a good deal. And this also applies to vintage jewelry purchased in the store: in this case too, the markup of the jeweler can be high. The alternative is to choose a jewel in the many auctions held every year. But in this case the problem is finding the right price. To embark on a jewelry purchase at auction, you need to be an expert. If you are not, the best thing is to consult the auction catalog well in advance and conduct a preliminary research on the pieces that interest you regarding the prices of similar jewels beaten in the most recent auctions: they can offer an idea of the market valuation. But be careful: remember that auction houses also charge a commission, which will increase the final sale price. In short, the true cost is not the one established at the time the beater’s hammer drops. Another way to understand the true value of a jewel is to rely on insurance companies, even if the price provided by an independent appraiser employed by an auction house is not an absolute guide to determining how much the jewel might sell later. . In short, the ingredients of the recipe for investing in jewelry are many: it takes an eye, choosing high quality jewelry, with beautiful precious stones. And a little luck.

Asta di Christie's a Ginevra — Asta di Christie’s a Ginevra

Vania Leles, the African soul of gems

Published on October 14, 2020

Showroom/Rings

Girocollo in oro giallo e diamanti della collezione Sahara

Rubies, emeralds, diamonds: these are the colors of Africa for Vania Leles, which uses gems of origin that are responsible for high-class jewelery signed VanLeles ♦

Africa for Vania Leles, born in Guinea-Bissau, means two things: pride and precious stones, with which she also realizes collections of fine jewelry. Also for this reason, for example, a couple of years ago, she created a collection of six high-jewelery pieces with emeralds and diamonds from Zambia from the Gemfields mines, which boasts a process of ethical acquisition of stones. The collection pays tribute to Dido Elizabeth Belle, who was born in slavery in the West Indies in 1761, but was liberated and raised in London, and for Sarah Forbes Bonetta, who was presented as a “gift” to Queen Victoria in 1850 and later grown up as the queen’s goddaughter. In short, stories of slavery of other times. But that Vania, of dark skin, wanted to remember. The latest collection, instead, is called Sahara: dedicated to the desert, it is made of gold and diamonds.

Fortunately, the designer had a different story: she was a model for Saint Laurent. But then she decided that jewels were more interesting than life on the catwalk and she studied at the Gemological Institute of America and then worked for Graff and De Beers. How to say that it started from above. Having learned her trade, she opened an atelier in New Bond Street, London. Her jewels are top top top, as you can see from the images on this page. Lavinia Andorno

Orecchini della collezione Sahara in oro giallo e diamanti