Pforzheim Archives | gioiellis.com

IsabelleFa, a chain for two

Published on December 5, 2022

Marriage between German tradition and Belgian creativity. From the union, also in life, of Isabelle Fagnoul with Hans-Georg Mössner, IsabelleFa was born, a company that operates in the Pforzheim area and which has brought a breath of fresh air to Germany, but not only. A story that needs a prologue. The company behind the IsabelleFa brand was born well before the romantic union between Belgium and Germany. In fact, in 1955 the Emil Mössner Goldwarenfabrik was founded, a factory in the town of Eisingen on the initiative of a specialized goldsmith and silversmith. Emil Mössner had directed the company on processes such as the artisanal production of gold chains.

Bracciale Grace in platino, con 6,6 carati di diamanti

Over the years, the workshop has grown into a factory. And here comes the founder’s son, the goldsmith master Hans-Georg Mössner, who, after meeting Isabelle at the Pforzheim goldsmith school, took over the management of Emil Mössner Goldwarenfabrik in the mid-1980s. The Isabelle Fa brand was born from the company and from the union of the couple in 1987. The result is the use of the company’s goldsmith production techniques for product lines that have Nordic design, simple but not boring, their aesthetic philosphy.

Choker e bracciale rigido Navette in oro rosa

Collier Eternelle in oro rosa e diamanti

Orecchini in oro rosa e pavé di diamanti

The Jörg Heinz secret

Published on July 14, 2022

Showroom/Rings

Ciondolo in oro bianco, diamanti, perla di Tahiti

Mobile jewels, which make precision an extra treasure: those of the German Maison Jörg Heinz ♦

When you say «made in Germany», you often think to mechanical industry, for example the cars, that are exported worldwide. But the ingenuity of the Germans also embraces the jewelry, as evidenced by Jörg Heinz. Born in 1942, the designer studied at the School of Arts and Crafts in Pforzheim. Then, it has been four years in Denmark, where he met the Danish jewelry style. He returned to Germany, but after marrying his wife, Irene. And here begins the story of the brand, which has managed to combine the gold with the mechanical genius. The Heinz Jörg jewelry, in fact, have a particularity: they are like the little schloss, castles. They are safe, but also beautiful to look at. The jewels, in fact, contain clasps, fasteners, which are valuable, but also masterpieces.

The German jeweler has started its journey with the development of jewelry with pearls, usually unique pieces or small series. Working around the necklaces with pearls, Jörg has decided to address what is the point more delicate and often least successful of these jewels: the closure, which is often a simple hook. The solution to the puzzle came in 1974: the closure clip was transformed and enhanced. The ingenious designer has transformed the locking mechanism in a design element that should not be hidden behind the neck. Instead, you can simply open holding it and then pressing and rotating the closure. The precise mechanism (we are in Germany) of the closure makes it easy to open and keeps firmly closed the jewel. Since then, the closure has been considered a jewel in its own right and has enjoyed several variations. Today the founder of the company is supported by his sons Martin and Lars Heinz and daughter Andrea Mössner. But the secret of his jewelry is still capable of surprising mechanism: in 2015 a jewel signed Jörg Heinz won the Couture Show in Las Vegas.

Bracciale Mystery Sphere in oro rosa, diamanti e perla di Tahiti

Anello Trias Mystery in oro rosa, diamanti bianchi e neri

Pendente per collana in oro bianco e diamanti

Collana con perle di Tahiti e chiusura in oro

Barbara Heinrich, from bunches to jewels

Published on June 6, 2022

Rings/Showroom/COLLANE

Anello in oro con diamanti e rubellite ovale

Children often use small bunches of grapes to simulate a jewel and Barbara Heinrich grew up next to a vineyard in Heilbronn near the Black Forest. Maybe that game inspired her career as a jewelry designer. The rest was done by her very German education: she followed a three-year apprenticeship with a master goldsmith in Waldorf, so rigorous that apprentices were not allowed to speak or listen to music during the day. Afterwards he continued his university studies at the Academy of Pforzheim, the capital of jewelry in Germany.

In 1983, Barbara Heinrich received a Rotary scholarship, which allowed her to study in the United States, where she completed her Masters of Fine Arts degree at the Rochester Institute of Technology. Then, finally, the designer devoted herself full time to her passion: she founded a studio and moved to Pittsford, New York.

He works with a team of jewelers, with pieces that use multilayer finishes, mainly in 18-karat gold. Gold is brushed and combined with tastefully chosen stones. He has received many national and international awards, including the Couture: Best of Gold of 2009, MJSA Vision Award 2011, the Fashion Award and Luster Award from the International Pearl Design Competition from the Cultured Pearl Association of America.

Pendente con foglie d'oro e diamante nero — Pendente con foglie d’oro e diamante nero

An example of Barbara Heinrich’s work is the pendant with a large black marquise cut diamond set between golden leaves and scattered diamonds, with a black shark leather strap. It can also be worn alone or as a brooch. It was presented at Couture 2019.

Anello in platino con diamanti taglio pera

Collana con zaffiri multicolori taglio briolette

Anello in oro con tsavorite taglio marquise

A long history behind this Hot Stuff

Published on May 30, 2022

Showroom/Rings

Anelli con pietre dure della collezione Colorelle

One of the jewelry brands with most tradition in Germany: Trautz ♦

Trautz family has a long history behind: it is linked to Pforzheim, the German town where it is alive an ancient jewelry tradition. After being divided into different trades, Trautz in the eighteenth century have focused on the jewelry. Since then the name has been synonymous with premium quality jewelry, but the company as it is today has his date of birth in 1928. Since 2007 the management of the jewelry factory is passed to Frank Trautz, which continues the long family tradition. The jewelry line most exclusive by German brand is named Hot Stuff.

A name more Anglo-Saxon Germanic, while the style of the jewelry is absolutely classic: 18K gold, white diamonds or champagne, to compose the rings, bracelets and pendants to show off on important occasions. The brand has also introduced stones like topaz and smoky quartz. Or the Magic flexible jewelery line, in the three colors of gold. They are jewels that do not have anything particularly German, but have an international feel: you might find in a store window in New York, as well as Milan.

Anello Sirius in oro e diamanti della collezione Hot Stuff — Anello Sirius in oro rosa e diamanti della collezione Hot Stuff

Anello Polaris in oro e 107 diamanti per 4,59 carati

Anello flessibile della collezione Magic in oro e diamanti

Bracciale Magic in oro giallo e diamanti

Tango with A.Odenwald

Published on October 7, 2021

Showroom/Rings

Anello Tango in oro giallo e zaffiri multicolori

The mobile jewelery made in Germany by A.Odenwald: gold, sapphires, diamonds, many colors ♦

The jewelry in German version by A.Odenwald (the A stands for Andreas) differs from that of many other brands that are active in the area around Pforzheim. A. Odenwald, in fact, is one of the few manufacturers that can claim to perform all of the in-house creation process: from the design to the work of goldsmiths, to the setting of the stones, finishing or polishing. Everything is produced in the factory in the town of Baden-Wurttemberg. The company has a history of almost a century and a half (born in 1882), but the most famous model is the Tango ring, a classic among the jewels of the German fashion house.

The ring has a mechanism that allows rotation and is studded with colored sapphires. The idea of a movable element, which becomes a pastime, a kind of game for the hands, has also involved the Twist collection, in which the customer can choose the colors of the sapphires around the ring. In short, as in other cases, the German goldsmith combines the precious material with an engineering and mechanical skills. Almost a transposition into the world of the jewels of those amazing animated clocks that have populated the northern cathedrals from the sixteenth century onwards. Rudy Serra

Anello Samba, oro rosa e bianco, zaffiri

Anelli Love in oro rosa o bianco e diamanti

Anelli in oro con pietra a pan di zucchero

The simple avant-garde of Jasmina Jovy

Published on January 21, 2021

Showroom/bracciale/Rings

Avant-garde jewels, with a design that looks to the future, those of Jasmina Jovy. The designer from Pforzheim (Germany) has jewelry in her blood: as a child she spent many hours in her mother’s goldsmith’s workshop and when she grew up she decided to put her experience to good use. But with the contribution of new ideas, which often seem decidedly avant-garde. The jewels have a minimalist style, very Nordic, simple and clean, but they do not lack personality.

Earrings, necklaces and rings are in gold but, more often, in gold-plated silver, although there are also those in steel. Some pieces are finished with rhodium, white or black, sometimes pearls are used. The contrast of volumes can seem strong in some pieces. But in other cases, like in earrings, vintage is combined with contemporary style. Jasmina Jovy founded her House in 2013 after a technical apprenticeship in Design, Jewelry and Devices in Pforzheim and then studies in the field of jewelry design at the University of Design in the jewel capital city of Germany.

The Baroque echoes of Barbara Haas

Published on March 27, 2017

Showroom

Anello dedicato ai 250 anni di Pforzheim

Between Florence, Baroque and Expressionism: the works of German designer Barbara Haas.
Nobles and British and German artists nineteenth century went down to southern, in Italy, for the Grand Tour: a long trip that served to broaden the culture and experiences. Italy still has a special fascination for many Nordic countries, in particular those involved in jewelry. The German designer Barbara Haas is one of these. She attended and graduated at the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence and, perhaps not secondary, she is married to an Italian. But, probably, it have been the cultural layers of the city to stay more imprinted in the mind of Barbara Haas.
When she returned in Germany and established in the jewelry cot, Pforzheim, the designer began to develop and produce jewelry that remember, with their processing, Renaissance and Baroque motifs: flowers, cherubs, ringlets are made of silver and colored lacquers. It also uses the technique of filigree, another classic of Italian jewelery. But not only. She divides her time with the sculpture, realizes statues and works in wood, bronze or stone. Although in this case the Florentine school seems combined with the Expressionist, which is born in Germany. Lavinia Andorno

Ciondolo e pendente della collezione Olimpia