Parigi - Page 4

With Courbet the artificial diamonds in Place Vendôme

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Perhaps some jewelers experienced it as a provocation, who knows. But for a couple of years in Place Vendôme in Paris, the capital of high jewelery, there has been a new Maison specializing in jewelry with laboratory-grown, that is, synthetic diamonds. The brand has an equally provocative name: Courbet. It is the name of the French painter of the nineteenth century also famous for being the author of a painting, The origin of the world, which portrays a female sex in the foreground (today it causes less scandal, but then it was a shock), Courbet, curiously , during the Paris Commune he was among the promoters of the destruction of the bronze column of Place Vendôme, considered an anti-pacifist monument (but it was later rebuilt).

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti lab grown
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti lab grown

The brand is headed by Manuel Mallen, who spent 20 years as a manager of Piaget and Baume & Mercier. The designer is the Swedish Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, former marketing manager in Europe for Procter & Gamble. The Courbet shop is located on the fifth floor of Cour Vendôme, just behind the square. The jewels have as their flag the label of sustainability, of an ethical product. In addition to lab grown diamonds, Courbet emphasizes the use of recycled gold. And not only from other jewels: it also uses gold present in obsolete computer and industrial material. While a very good mine produces only about 5 grams of gold per ton of ore, one ton of e-waste can contain up to 1 kilogram of yellow metal.
In short, jewelry with synthetic diamonds, a stone’s throw from the boutiques of Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Damiani, Piaget… the world is really changing.
Orecchini a cerchio con diamanti lab grown
Orecchini a cerchio con diamanti lab grown

Orecchini a bottone Celeste
Orecchini a bottone Celeste
Orecchini in oro rosa Eclipse
Orecchini in oro rosa Eclipse
Bracciale in oro giallo con diamanti lab grown
Bracciale in oro giallo con diamanti lab grown
Anello in oro rosa con diamanti lab grown
Anello in oro rosa con diamanti lab grown
Anello in oro bianco con diamante sintetico
Anello in oro bianco con diamante sintetico







Passion and Mont Blanc in the new Buccellati high jewelery

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The passion of the Buccellati Maison consists in proposing a style that is renewed over time, but is always faithful to its origins. So it is perhaps not surprising that one of the pieces that attracted the most attention in the new high jewelery collection presented during Paris Couture Week 2021 is called Passion. It is a ring in white and yellow gold, with a 10.72 carat rubellite and diamonds. In the same collection, another creation that sparked the imagination is, instead, the Polvere di Luna set, which includes a necklace combined with light pendants.

Anello Passione, in oro  bianco e giallo, rubellite di 10,72 carati
Anello Passione, in oro bianco e giallo, rubellite di 10,72 carati

The style is the unmistakable one of the Maison founded by Mario Buccellati a little over a century ago and now directed from the creative point of view by Andrea Buccellati (the property is instead of the Richemont group). Another piece in full Buccellati-style is the Mont Blanc ring, which replaces the snow on the summit with a pearl that rises from a zigzag design surrounding the yellow gold bezel. It goes without saying that the classic embroidery of bracelets, earrings and necklaces is not lacking. On the other hand, it is the Maison’s factory stamp.

Bracciale in oro  bianco e giallo, e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e giallo, e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello Monte Bianco, in oro, diamanti e perla
Anello Monte Bianco, in oro, diamanti e perla
Bracciale in oro bianco e giallo, zaffiri
Bracciale in oro bianco e giallo, zaffiri
Alta gioielleria Buccellati, bracciale
Alta gioielleria Buccellati, bracciale

Collier Polvere di Luna, in oro  bianco e giallo, e diamanti
Collier Polvere di Luna, in oro bianco e giallo, e diamanti







The different jewels of Pascale Monvoisin

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Different jewels, a personal style, the search for a market niche: Pascale Monvoisin in Paris does not compete with the great Maisons of Place Vendôme, but follows her path. And so, considered he has decided to open a second boutique in the heart of the French capital, it seems that his work is appreciated. Pascale Monvoisin is one of those designers happily affected since childhood by the jewelry syndrome, a dangerous disease that causes those who suffer from it to open a company that produces rings, bracelets and earrings (we are joking). But the event that convinced him to take the step of founding his own brand was, he himself says, a trip to India.

Collana in oro, argento, diamanti, bachelite
Collana in oro, argento, diamanti, bachelite

Some years ago, in Jaipur, the jewelry and stone capital of Rajasthan, he bought a kilo of turquoises. And he immediately started designing jewelry. After that exploit, the source of inspiration completely changed: it was the photographs of Robert Mapplethorpe. Pascale Monvoisin’s jewels use gold and precious and semi-precious stones, but also unusual materials for fine jewelery, such as bakelite.
Collana in oro con citrino e diamanti
Collana in oro con citrino e diamanti

Anello Varda in oro, diamanti e bachelite
Anello Varda in oro, diamanti e bachelite
Anello Souad in oro e diamanti
Anello Souad in oro e diamanti
Anello Souad in oro e citrino con diamante
Anello Souad in oro e citrino con diamante
Collana in oro con cristallo di rocca e diamanti
Collana in oro con cristallo di rocca e diamanti

Anello in oro, diamanti e bachelite
Anello in oro, diamanti e bachelite







A super ring (and more) for Messika’s Valentine’s Day

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A super ring for Valentine’s Day. But not only: Messika has prepared her high jewelry for the longest day of lovers. But there is no doubt that the shiniest piece of the Maison founded by Valérie Messika is the Toi et Moi ring with its 7 and 3-carat heart-cut asymmetrical diamonds. The pair of diamonds is of a different color, fancy yellow and pink: two shades that are rare individually, but are even more exclusive when mounted in pairs on a ring and, moreover, with the rare heart cut. In short, a uncommon jewel.

Anello con diamanti giallo e rosa, in atmosfera San Valentino. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Anello con diamanti giallo e rosa, in atmosfera San Valentino. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean

The ring goes well with one of Messika’s most successful collections: My Twin. This collection, in fact, has been designed to unite opposites (as happens in couples). The jewels use, in fact, delicate but sensual pear cut stones, together with others with emerald cut. The two diamonds are used both for rings of the Toi et Moi type, and for earrings and necklaces. A high-end jewelry that seems to have been designed especially for Valentine’s Day.
Anello Toi et Moi con diamanti asimmetrici a taglio cuore da 7 e 3 carati
Anello Toi et Moi con diamanti asimmetrici a taglio cuore da 7 e 3 carati

Anelli e bracciali della collezione My Twin
Anelli e bracciali della collezione My Twin
Collier con diamanti della collezione My Twin
Collier con diamanti della collezione My Twin
Orecchini con diamanti della collezione My Twin
Orecchini con diamanti della collezione My Twin
Anello con diamanti della collezione My Twin
Anello con diamanti della collezione My Twin






 

Romantic Stone Paris

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The romantic jewelry of the French with Polish origin Marie Poniatowski, founder of Stone Paris.

Stone Paris: a name that does not leave space to guess what is the city in which it is located (it is on the rue des Saints-Peres, Latin Quarter). The imagination, however, don’t is missed to its creator, Marie Poniatowski. But again it is easy to guess what is the origin of the designer. You guessed it, it is a noble Polish family that has its roots in 1400, but is now Parisian of adoption. Paris Stone was founded in 2004. And Marie is a predestined: the father was the editor of Vogue France and her mother was a designer. After a foray into the world of film, Marie has now found her the road to make jewels , with its original vision: modern without being too modern, classical without being too classic.

Anello in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo e diamanti

The Jade collection, for example, was inspired by a trip to Venice and late Gothic architecture. Like the embroidered decorations of the Ca d’Oro, which was originally covered with gold leaf and lapis lazuli. In short, the Stone Paris collection pays homage to 15th-century Gothic architecture.
Pendente della collezione Jade in oro rosa e diamanti
Pendente della collezione Jade in oro rosa e diamanti

Perhaps a bit ‘romantic, as is the fate of the Poles who have brought to France the cheerful and melancholy spirit of their history. On the other hand she say to worship the Victorian period. Roads of fate aside, the jewels are made of gold, in three colors, and small white or blacks diamonds that make sparkling jewel without drawing attention to a single point, like a spider web of wires. Margherita Donato
Anello della collezione Jade in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello della collezione Jade in oro rosa e diamanti

Orecchini a cerchio in oro bianco e rosa con diamanti
Orecchini a cerchio in oro bianco e rosa con diamanti
Bracciale in oro nero e diamanti
Bracciale in oro nero e diamanti

Pendente in oro bianco e oro rosa con diamanti
Pendente in oro bianco e oro rosa con diamanti







The evolutions of Poiray




It has just turned 45, but he has not lost the desire to “disturb a world, that of Place Vendôme, sometimes frozen in its convictions as in its traditions”. This is how Poiray, the Parisian brand founded by François Hérail and Michel Ermelin, describes itself. The starting idea was to offer jewels to be worn easily, on any occasion. In short, nothing to do with high jewelery, but without departing from the world of luxury. An idea strengthened in the mid-eighties with the arrival, as creative director, of Nathalie Hocq.

Il pendente Cœur Entrelacé in oro, simbolo di Poiray
Il pendente Cœur Entrelacé in oro, simbolo di Poiray

It is to her that we owe the choice of the shape of the intertwined heart as a symbol of the Maison in rue de la Paix. The Cœur Entrelacé is still one of Poiray’s classic pieces. In the history of the brand, a few years ago, also the purchase by Ams, a French family company already operating in the world of luxury, must be recorded. The president thus becomes Jean-Paul Bize, owner of the brand in 2013. And he renews Poiray’s proposal, with collections such as L’Attrape-Coeur and Lolita, created by designer Aurélie Bidermann: another sign that the Maison intends to do not forget the rebellious spirit with which she was born.
Anello con pavé di diamanti e zaffiro giallo
Anello con pavé di diamanti e zaffiro giallo
Orecchini con pavé di diamanti e zaffiro giallo
Orecchini con pavé di diamanti e zaffiro giallo

Collana con granato rodolite e perla
Collana con granato rodolite e perla
Bracciale in oro giallo e granati
Bracciale in oro giallo e granati
Boucles doreilles Dune de Poiray
Orecchini in oro giallo e granati
Anelli con topazi, pietra di luna e rodolite
Anelli con topazi, pietra di luna e rodolite







Burma multicolor




The proposals by Burma, the French queen of bijoux: fake jewels that seem true ♦

About the twenties, in Paris, they have written many, Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald and of course, the French authors. But several pages of the Jazz Age has also was been written by a Maison specializing in jewelry: Burma. In Paris is a synonym of jewelry created with elements that seem valuable, but they are in half. For example, vermeil (gold-plated silver), or cubic zirconia instead of diamonds. But Burma has specialized in this capacity to bring large pieces of jewelry without the need to use always real gemstones: its jewels are from nearly a century of valuable pieces with a zero in the least.

If a large ring with sapphires and rubies might cost, say, 20,000 Euros, by Burma with the same appearance it could cost 2,000 or 200.

Orecchini in argento rodiato
Orecchini in argento rodiato
From Gaston Doumergue, who inaugurated the Maison, to Josephine Baker and the Folies Bergères, something has changed nowadays. For example, Burma invented and patented Burmalite, a synthetic stone, zirconium oxide, similar to diamond. But it costs a lot less and doesn’t look like an unnatural gem to an untrained eye. The colored stones of the Maison, with this material, are a real show. Seeing is believing.

Anello Anello della collezione Opera in oro bianco 18 carati e burmalite a forma di peradella collezione Opera in oro bianco 18 carati eburmalite a forma di pera
Anello della collezione Opera in oro bianco 18 carati e burmalite a forma di pera
Bracciale in argento bianco e burmalite
Bracciale in argento bianco e burmalite
Collana in argento rodiato e burmalite bianca
Collana in argento rodiato e burmalite bianca
Collana a quattro fili in argento rodiato e burmalite
Collana a quattro fili in argento rodiato e burmalite
Orecchini in argento rodiato e burmalite gialla
Orecchini in argento rodiato e burmalite gialla
Collana in argento rodiato con burmalite gialla
Collana in argento rodiato con burmalite gialla







Mellerio, the oldest jewelry in the world




The oldest jewelry company in the world has long since turned 400 years old. Which is of (very distant) Italian origin. Mellerio, whose full name is Mellerio dits Meller, is now French. It was founded in 1613 and the descendants claim to be the oldest family-type business in Europe. The jewelry also gives its name to a particular cut of gems, the Mellerio in fact, which has 57 facets in an oval shape within an ellipse. Today Mellerio has a shop in rue de la Paix, in Paris, with branches in Luxembourg and Japan.

Parure in oro e ametista datata 1820
Parure in oro e ametista datata 1820

The jewelry company started its business in 1613 by the Mellerio family, originally from Val Vigezzo (north of Lake Maggiore), but later moved the business to Paris. Jean-Baptiste Mellerio (1765-1850) then opened a workshop in Versailles in 1777, where the court of the King of France resided. In 1796 the Mellerio family also opened a shop in rue Vivienne, also in Versailles. Francois Mellerio (1772-1843) then moved with the company to Paris.
Spilla a forma di pavone realizzata per un maharaja indiano agli inizi del Novecento
Spilla a forma di pavone realizzata per un maharaja indiano agli inizi del Novecento

The Maison Mellerio owes its fame to the extraordinary ability to make jewelry, a quality that has guaranteed it the favor of many crowned heads. Starting with the Italian, who became queen of France, Maria de ‘Medici, second wife of Henry IV, which fell in love with Mellerio’s jewels. Since then the road has been downhill between Versailles and the Maison as far until Marie Antoinette. But even after the French Revolution, Mellerio jewels continued to be coveted: an esteemer was Napoleon’s first wife, Giuseppina.
Collana in oro bianco, rubini, diamanti e perle della Medici collection
Collana in oro bianco, rubini, diamanti e perle della Medici collection

Since 1815 the workshop has been at 9 rue de la Paix, where it is still located today. Masterpieces of the goldsmith’s art are marked in the jewelery ledgers, such as a bracelet with a cameo and ruby ​​purchased by Queen Marie Antoinette, the diadem bought by Napoleon’s sister, or the tiara with ruby ​​ordered in 1888 by the King of the Netherlands and magazine of recently during a Dutch royal wedding, in 2004. Or a brooch representing a peacock, with a golden beak and waves of diamond plumes, made in the early twentieth century for an Indian marajà. Now the historic maison is celebrating four centuries of activity. Hoping to have four more to do.
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti che copre tre dita
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti che copre tre dita

Naturally Mellerio, alongside the conspicuous tradition inherited from the past, has been renewed and today offers collections suitable for modern times. For example, the new high jewelery Collection Privée, where stones, shapes and colors are tuned to the tastes of modern queens, but also of all women who have the privilege of buying or receiving Mellerio rings, necklaces and bracelets as gifts.

Collana di oro bianco, con 5.080 diamanti e rubini birmani. Per realizzarla ci sono volute 4.600 ore di lavorazione
Collana di oro bianco, con 5.080 diamanti e rubini birmani. Per realizzarla ci sono volute 4.600 ore di lavorazione
Anello Nosy della Collection Privée con zaffiro a taglio cuscino viola, zaffiri rosa, diamanti e ametiste su oro bianco
Anello Nosy della Collection Privée con zaffiro a taglio cuscino viola, zaffiri rosa, diamanti e ametiste su oro bianco







The gems of wonders with Van Cleef & Arpels




Van Cleef & Arpels is, among the jewelery houses, one of those that boasts great attention in the choice of precious stones. A testimony of this special attitude is the Pierres précieuses exhibition, inaugurated at the Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle in Paris and which will continue until June 14, 2021. The work of Van Cleef & Arpels is entitled Rocher aux merveilles and is centered on the contrast between rough stones and high jewelery. The nine high jewelery creations that make up the Rocher aux Merveilles include ring, clip, pendant, earrings and bracelet.

La composizione Rocher aux merveilles
La composizione Rocher aux merveilles

The most surprising aspect of the exhibition is just the contribution made by the Parisian Maison, which used a large raw stone of lapis lazuli of 6.2 kilograms that looks like a mountain, resting on a 13 kilogram blue quartz plate, next to a forest of tourmaline crystals for 2,171 carats and with a small treasure of high jewelery: a dragon, a unicorn, two fairies, flowers, and a cascade of diamonds and sapphires. The whole is a miniature fairy tale landscape. An atmosphere that, in fact, is one of the recurring inspirations in the high jewelery collections by Van Cleef & Arpels.
La clip unicorno
La clip Unicorno

The making of this small world of fine jewelry involved carving the fairies and the unicorn in wax, cutting the stones, assembling, crafting jewelry, setting and polishing. In all, almost 6,400 hours of work were required, with over 4,700 hours of jewelry, 1,200 hours of setting and 500 hours of polishing.
Clip con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Clip con diamanti e zaffiri rosa

Posizionamento dei cristalli di tormalina
Posizionamento dei cristalli di tormalina
La locandina della mostra Pierres précieuses
La locandina della mostra Pierres précieuses
Posizionamento della clip Palmyre con diamanti e zaffiri sulla roccia di lapislazzulo
Posizionamento della clip Palmyre con diamanti e zaffiri sulla roccia di lapislazzulo
Il modellino in cera della clip Unicorno
Il modellino in cera della clip Unicorno







Murat, Paris for all

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About a century and a half ago (in 1847 to be precise) Charles Murat founded in Paris the jewelry that still bears his name today. Unlike the Maison of Place Vendôme, however, Murat has focused on a “boulevard jewelry” at super affordable prices, in 925 silver, gold, gold plated and steel. In short, Parisian jewelry, but not suitable for a soirée at the Opera. In 1998 the French group Marcel Robbez Masson bought the brand with the idea of maintaining the original philosophy: French style combined with everyday life.

Anello Adventure placcato oro e lacca
Anello Adventure placcato oro e lacca

For summer 2020, for example, Murat proposed the Adventure collection, with gold-plated metal and coral-colored lacquer anti-evil eye decoration. The bijoux are made of 925 ‰ silver, gold plated and 316L steel, with the addition of crystals, cubic zirconia or colored lacquer and prices range from 30 to 160 euros.
Orecchini della collezione Adventure
Orecchini della collezione Adventure

Collezione Glamour, anello in argento e lacca
Collezione Glamour, anello in argento e lacca

Collezione Glamour, anello in argento e lacca rossa
Collezione Glamour, anello in argento e lacca rossa
Collezione Glamour, bracciale in argento e lacca
Collezione Glamour, bracciale in argento e lacca
Orecchini placcati oro e cubic zirconia
Orecchini placcati oro e cubic zirconia

Bracciale placcatoi oro e cubic zirconia
Bracciale placcato oro e cubic zirconia

Pubblicità Murat degli anni Cinquanta
Pubblicità Murat degli anni Cinquanta







The high acrobatic jewelery by Messika

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Valérie Messika, the queen of diamonds in Paris, always oscillates between two poles for her jewels: stones of great value and irreverent design. A combination that has upset the classic canons of high jewelery, often anchored in an unchanging style. The new collection, Voltige, also follows a philosophy that Messika describes as movement, balance and imbalance, symmetry and asymmetry. The images of the processing of the jewels, released by Maiason, confirm this description.

La lavorazione di un gioiello della collezione Voltige
La lavorazione di un gioiello della collezione Voltige

The collection includes 20 pieces which, according to the founder of the Maison, is also a return to origins. Voltige is a collection of high jewelery and, therefore, there is no shortage of very precious pieces. Like the Trapézistes ring, with a 10.19 carat pear fancy diamond set in a pentagon. Or the Danseurs Aériens hoop earrings, where a 5.06 carat emerald diamond and a 6.02 carat pear cut diamond coexist in a surprising balance. It is no coincidence that the jewelry line is called Voltige, the French word for circus stunts. The stones, in fact, seem to float in the air: thanks also to the Parisian artisans who managed to concretize the daring designs of the collection.
Anello Trapézistes, con diamante taglio fancy giallo pera da 10,19 carati incastonato in un pentagono
Anello Trapézistes, con diamante taglio fancy giallo pera da 10,19 carati incastonato in un pentagono

Voltige’s sense of freedom, on the other hand, is in Messika’s DNA, which at the debut became known with its jewelry with moving diamonds that move on tracks. And that many celebrities like them, such as Beyoncé, who wore a Messika necklace for the Superbowl, or Gigi Hadid, Selena Gomez and Toni Garrn. All attracted by luxury combined with lightness: which is the true symbol of wealth.
Lavorazione dell'orecchino Danseurs Aériens
Lavorazione dell’orecchino Danseurs Aériens

Messika, alta gioielleria
Messika, alta gioielleria
Orecchino della collezione Voltige
Orecchino della collezione Voltige
Orecchino con diamante taglio a pera
Orecchino con diamante taglio a pera

Orecchini a cerchio Danseurs Aériens con un diamante taglio smeraldo da 5,06 carati e un diamante taglio pera da 6,02 carati
Orecchini a cerchio Danseurs Aériens con un diamante taglio smeraldo da 5,06 carati e un diamante taglio pera da 6,02 carati







Double-sided for Marie Mas

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Marie Mas, brand of the Parisian designer Marie Cabirou, who loves to move her jewels (as we have explained here), offers her Summer Swinging Stones. They are jewels with a double-sided design, with mother of pearl on one side and semi-precious stones like malachite on the other. Beyond the romantic associations of inspiration with the summer (walks in the twilight by the sea, quiet evenings in the lightness of the breeze, travel) the collection does not renounce the playful aspect that characterizes the brand, which uses patented techniques to add mobility to jewelry.

Pendente in oro rosa con malachite e madreperla
Pendente in oro rosa con malachite e madreperla

There are, for example, reversible drop-shaped earrings in 18-carat pink gold, which have green malachite on one side and white mother-of-pearl on the other. The necklace too can be worn showing the malachite (green) side or the mother of pearl (white) side. The collection includes 16 pieces (necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings) made of 18-carat pink gold. Bracelets and necklaces can be stacked together to create a more playful design and have adjustable closures.

Collana in oro rosa con malachite
Collana in oro rosa con malachite

To me a moving jewel is a gentle reminder of the freedom we have to change everyday. A reminder that there is always a brighter side.
Marie Cabirou

Collana della collezione Summer Swinging Stones
Collana della collezione Summer Swinging Stones
Orecchini della collezione Summer Swinging Stones
Orecchini della collezione Summer Swinging Stones
Orecchini in oro rosa e malachite
Orecchini in oro rosa e malachite
Orecchini in oro rosa e madreperla
Orecchini in oro rosa e madreperla







Jacky Kennedy’s jewel watch sold by Christie’s




A desk clock with sapphires, diamonds and rubies by Van Cleef & Arpels, which was part of the personal collection of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis: it is the most valuable piece sold at the Christie’s auction in Paris. The jewel-watch was sold for 310,000 euros, almost eight times the estimate before the sale, and was the subject of a flurry of offers between five bidders. A Cartier diamond ring was sold for € 175,000 and a rare Chaumet Art Deco emerald and diamond bracelet was sold for € 92,500. In the Paris auction there was also a ring with sapphire and Verdura diamonds, sold for € 274,000 and a necklace of emeralds and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels, sold on Christie’s Live (online) for € 81,250, doubling his estimate presale.

Jackie Kennedy
Jackie Kennedy

We are excited about the great results achieved today. They show that collectors are still eager to buy beautiful jewelry, such as the Van Cleef & Arpels desk clock sold for 310,000 against a presale estimate of 40,000-80,000. This price once again demonstrates collectors’ appetite for large provenance since this watch came from Jackie Kennedy’s personal collection! We are also pleased to see international buyers from 30 countries. Of all the lots sold, 39% were purchased on the Internet and 43% on the phone. These statistics demonstrate Christie’s international reach and the importance of our digital progress.
Violaine d’Astorg and Mafalda Chenu, sales specialists

Orologio da tavolo appartenuto a Jackie Kennedy Onassis in oro, diamanti e rubini, Van Cleef & Arpels
Orologio da tavolo appartenuto a Jackie Kennedy Onassis in oro, diamanti e rubini, Van Cleef & Arpels

The auction totaled 4.6 million euros (5.2 million dollars), with 79% of the lots awarded for 85% of the value. Federico Graglia

Bracciale art déco di Chaumet con diamanti e smeraldi
Bracciale art déco di Chaumet con diamanti e smeraldi

Anello di Cartier con diamanti di 14,37 carati
Anello di Cartier con diamanti di 14,37 carati
Anello di Verdura con zaffiro e diamante
Anello di Verdura con zaffiro e diamante
Anello art déco con zaffiro e diamanti di Cartier
Anello art déco con zaffiro e diamanti di Cartier

Spilla di David Webb a forma di uccello con zaffiri, smeraldi, rubini e diamanti
Spilla di David Webb a forma di uccello con zaffiri, smeraldi, rubini e diamanti







Alexandra Abramczyk, the world in a drop of glass

It seems that jewels, originally born as talismans, exert a charm that goes beyond their objective reality: the Parisian Alexandra Abramczyk, for example, is one of those designers who attribute to objects that creates a spiritual dimension. Her pieces, he says, are a source of balance, harmony, energy and well-being. As we have repeatedly said, this is probably important for those who create the jewel, to which it confers a mysterious power. It is a little less important for those who buy jewelry simply because they like it. However you think, you will agree, however, that Alexandra Abramczyk’s jewels are undoubtedly interesting.

Collana con pendente Carpa Koi, in oro giallo 18 carati, pietra luna, tormalina e diamanti
Collana con pendente Carpa Koi, in oro giallo 18 carati, pietra luna, tormalina e diamanti

The designer, she says in her autobiographical note, grew up with strong personalities who influenced her life, starting with her Argentine father, an art lover and silverware collector, who took her around for antique fairs. Alexandra Abramczyk then studied Fine Arts in Madrid, where she learned about the restoration of ancient paintings and the work of gilding.

Collana con pendente orsetto, in oro rosa 18 carati, zaffiri e diamanti
Collana con pendente orsetto, in oro rosa 18 carati, zaffiri e diamanti

Back in Paris, she studied in parallel at with the BJOP (Ecole Privée de la Bijouterie) and the National Institute of Gemology. She then gained experience with Cartier, in the High Jewelery department and then Graff, in London. Since 2015, Alexandra has launched its namesake label: Alexandra Abramczyk.
Her work reflects a strong creativity: for example, with the Secret Glass collection, composed of ten pendants set in a drop of glass and gold and suspended on a hammered chain. Inside there are miniatures of worlds with en tremblant gems and animal figures. Or the ring with rainbow tassel, with apatites, sapphires and diamonds.

Anello con nappa arcobaleno, oro 18 carati, apatiti, zaffiri, diamanti, tsavoriti
Anello con nappa arcobaleno, oro 18 carati, apatiti, zaffiri, diamanti, tsavoriti
Ciondolo con cane in oro bianco, tsavoriti e diamanti
Ciondolo con cane in oro bianco, tsavoriti e diamanti
Ciondolo con drago in oro rosa, tsavoriti e diamanti
Ciondolo con drago in oro rosa, tsavoriti e diamanti
Anello Rainbow con opale, ametiste, zaffiri, tsavoriti
Anello Rainbow con opale, ametiste, zaffiri, tsavoriti
Collana Snake in oro giallo 18 carati, smeraldi, tormalina, diamanti
Collana Snake in oro giallo 18 carati, smeraldi, tormalina, diamanti
Anello SUltana conin oro 18 carati, diamanti e pietra luna
Anello SUltana conin oro 18 carati, diamanti e pietra luna

Graff superstar at the Sotheby’s auction in Paris




Do you love Graff’s jewels? An interesting occasion presents itself for you in Paris: the Fine Jewels auction organized by Sotheby’s on 27 May. To tell the truth, the jewels are many: 168 lots which include pieces by Bulgari, Boucheron, Buccellati, Cartier, Fabergé, Garrard, Suzanne Belperron and René Boivin, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels, etc. But, above all, the pieces signed by the London jeweler Graff stand out.

Collana di diamanti su platino e oro bianco di Graff
Collana di diamanti su platino e oro bianco di Graff

The most esteemed (110.000-140.000 euros) is an exceptional necklace with brilliant cut diamonds on platinum and 18 carat gold. Another valuable piece is a rounded ring with a pavé of rubies and diamonds, also by Graff. Still, pierced circle earrings with pear-shaped and brilliant cut diamonds, as well as round cut emeralds, a pendant with decorations with brilliant cut diamond pavé, on a chain decorated with brilliant cut diamonds in a closed setting, a necklace with emeralds and diamonds also by the English jeweler, and last but not least, a pair of pear and diamond-shaped round blue sapphires.
Anello con rubini e diamanti di Graff
Anello con rubini e diamanti di Graff

For those who love vintage, among the many jewels at auction, a pair of clip earrings with rock crystal and diamonds stands out, designed by Suzanne Belperron and René Boivin from around 1930.

Collana con pendente di diamanti
Collana con pendente di diamanti
Collana con pendente di diamanti  e smeraldi
Collana con pendente di diamanti e smeraldi
Orecchini con diamanti e smeraldi
Orecchini con diamanti e smeraldi

Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri
Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri

Orecchini con cristallo di rocca intagliato di Suzanne Belperron e René Boivin
Orecchini con cristallo di rocca intagliato di Suzanne Belperron e René Boivin







The elaborate jewels of Emeline Piot for Mathon

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Mathon, Parisian jewelry founded in the seventies by the goldsmith artist Roger Mathon, proposes to another artist, Emeline Piot, to design a collection of jewelry. This is not just any collection, but a series of jewels that are the result of the particularly intense collaboration between Emeline Piot and the artisans of the Atelier Mathon. These are very elaborate jewels, with a style that for some reason recalls art nouveau, but also oriental art. Bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings are certainly different from the usual ones and are also looking for women capable of wearing them: they are not jewelry for everyone.

Anello Ara, con tormalina neon, zaffiri rosa, spinelli neri e  rossi, zaffiri gialli, diamanti GVS, smeraldi,  granati, spessartite,  Rubino
Anello Ara, con tormalina neon, zaffiri rosa, spinelli neri e rossi, zaffiri gialli, diamanti GVS, smeraldi, granati, spessartite, Rubino

The themes of inspiration for the jewels are animals and plants, but without any idea of ​​representing natural elements. Rather, they are a rich elaboration of the original subject. The materials used are top quality with a large choice of gems, such as red and orange spinel, black cabochon spinels, Paraíba tourmalines, blue sapphires, GVS diamonds, emeralds.
Anello Nkuma, con spinello rosso-arancio, neri e rossi, tormaline Paraíba, zaffiri blu, diamanti GVS, smeraldi
Anello Nkuma, con spinello rosso-arancio, neri e rossi, tormaline Paraíba, zaffiri blu, diamanti GVS, smeraldi

Collana lunga Janus
Collana lunga Janus
Emeline Piot, manchette Pisces
Emeline Piot, manchette Pisces
Orecchino Quetzacoal, spinelli rossi, tormaline neon, spinelli neri, sfumati rosa e viola, zaffiri rosa e viola, diamanti, smeraldi
Orecchino Quetzacoal, spinelli rossi, tormaline neon, spinelli neri, sfumati rosa e viola, zaffiri rosa e viola, diamanti, smeraldi
Collana Anqa, con ametista, pietre di luna, spinelli rossi, diamanti, smeraldi, granati, spessartiti,
Collana Anqa, con ametista, pietre di luna, spinelli rossi, diamanti, smeraldi, granati, spessartiti,

Emeline Piot, collana Nyiama
Emeline Piot, collana Nyiama







The original design of Muriel Grateau

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Many in Milan still remember Muriel Grateau: she was a designer alongside the entrepreneur Diego Della Valle (Tod’s), but then in 1992 she returned to Paris. She designs objects, furnishings, accessories, but also imposing jewels with a bold personality. She goes so far as to hide the most precious materials, such as gold under black enamel.

Anello in onice intagliato con viso maschile
Anello in onice intagliato con viso maschile

«I create high jewelry that does not have the flashy characteristics. My pieces are not for social status, “comments the designer. Her jewels are truly amazing, with golden lace spiders, black diamonds, pop-style brooches, light and slightly acidic enamels together with sapphires. The result is a line of high personality, refined elegance, exasperated research. The wearer takes on a part of originality. But she remained entirely a designer and in her gallery at 37 rue de Beaune she also exhibits her collections of dishes and accessories as well as jewelry.
Spilla Grand Soleil
Spilla Grand Soleil

Ever since he started, Muriel Grateau has followed his path in the creative world. He designed unique clothes, noticed by Hélène Lazareff, founder of Elle magazine. He then worked alongside the legendary designer Peggy Roche. In the mid-sixties he took part in the creation of Promostyl, the first trendy agency. And for Basile and Mario Valentino he designed collections for every season. It had an avalanche production: Muriel Grateau approached 1,500 models per season during the 1980s.
Anello in onice e corallo
Anello in onice e corallo

The first jewelry collection dates back to 2005. Each piece may take up to three months to make. “I immediately understood that freedom in jewelry consists in going beyond borders”. So do not think twice before combining poor materials, precious stones and high technology, using, for example, laser cutting. For Muriel Grateau, if his jewels are impressive “it is only for their volume and not because they must be ostentatious”. Matilde de Bounvilles

Spilla Witch's eye
Spilla Witch’s eye
Muriel Grateau
Muriel Grateau
Bracciale Boule
Bracciale Boule
Orecchini Boule Diamants
Orecchini Boule Diamants

Anello Boule Diamants
Anello Boule Diamants







David Morris’ high jewelery in the Electric Geometric Collection

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High jewelery capable of shock up that of David Morris. During the haute couture week, the British jeweler showed some pieces from his Electric Geometric Collection in Paris. Electrifying jewels, in fact, given that the shapes and composition of these unique pieces are to be considered at the top.

Bracciale Hexagon con diamanti bianchi e rosa
Bracciale Hexagon con diamanti bianchi e rosa

For example, the Sunrise bracelet: an abstract and modern interpretation of the sun’s rays emerging on the horizon and making their way through the clouds. The bracelet is made up of over 2,000 white diamonds, set with a technique that uses 3D modeling and prototyping. In short, goldsmith’s art alongside technology: tiny hinges, each made by hand, allow the bracelet to open and lie completely flat. It is undoubtedly an exceptional piece. The Hexagon bracelet takes its name from the hexagons that make up the texture of the jewel, inspired by bee hives and snowflakes, but also by cells. It took almost two years to complete, with many of the white and pink diamonds cut to size for symmetry, with the aim of adapting to the cells of the design. Each of the latter is a separate piece which, according to David Morris, represents a technical turning point for the workshop of the atelier in the creation of flexible spring bracelets.
Bracciale Sunrise in oro rosa, diamanti bianchi
Bracciale Sunrise in oro rosa, diamanti bianchi

Among the pieces of the collection, the Phoenix earrings also stand out, with almost 25 carats of Paraíba tourmaline and white diamonds, but also the Chrysalis necklace and earrings set, which represents the moment when a butterfly is transformed. The necklace is composed of pink and white pear cut diamonds, the largest of which is over 7 carats.
Orecchini con diamanti e tormalina paraiba
Orecchini con diamanti e tormalina paraiba

Orecchini a cascata con diamanti e paraiba
Orecchini a cascata con diamanti e paraiba
Spilla Fractal in oro bianco con diamanti bianchi e rosa
Spilla Fractal in oro bianco con diamanti bianchi e rosa

Collana Chrysalis con diamanti taglio a pera
Collana Chrysalis con diamanti taglio a pera







Marie Mas’s new mobile jewels

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The number of mobile jewels of Marie Mas, the brand of the Parisian designer Marie Cabirou, becomes bigger. The Wave collection, which we anticipated here, added other pieces to those presented on the occasion of VicenzaOro September.

Orecchini Imperial Wave
Orecchini Imperial Wave

The Wave collection is characterized by a sinuous movement of the jewels, which announces mobile elements, ready to follow the curvature of the wearer’s body. The jewels are made of 18 carat pink and white gold.
Ocean Ripple Earring by Marie Mas
Ocean Ripple Earring by Marie Mas

I chose to work with rainbow moonstones in the Wave Collection to translate the magic of the sea and the shimmer of light dancing on the waves: when the sunlight slides to the surface, the water seems to change color. The dramatic and mysterious chromatic play is captured through the fluttering splendor of the rainbow moonstones as they move. These exquisite gems can be transparent or shine in abandonment. Due to their inner splendor known as flattering, the stones have a naturally seductive blue fire, which makes them very unique and a joy to work with.
Marie Cabirou

Anello Moonlight
Anello Moonlight

The French designer’s jewels combine aesthetic pleasure with playful pleasure: they invite you to play with the jewels and, at the same time, offer an aesthetic in symbiosis with the curved lines of the body. After studying at the prestigious École Duperré (art, design and fashion college) and IFM (French fashion institute) in Paris, Marie learned jewelry design by helping Florence Croisier and Shourouk. In 2012 she entered the Christian Dior Couture Maison with Raf Simons, where she honed her skills in designing jewelry. After three years, Marie decided to launch her high fashion and high fashion jewelry line which she named Marie Mas, in homage to her maternal grandmother, Henriette Mas, who influenced her taste for femininity, beauty and creation.
Queen Wave Ring nelle due posizioni degli elementi mobili
Queen Wave Ring nelle due posizioni degli elementi mobili







The diamonds of the debs ball





Once the debutante’s ball marked the entry of 18-year-old girls into society. The dance was reserved for girls and boys of rich and aristocratic families. The girls debutantes bowed before the queen (in Britain), they wore white clothes, gloves and tiaras. This tradition has been forgotten for many years, to come back into vogue in the late 1980s. The problem is that now the girls don’t wait 18 years to attend parties and living rooms. The arrival of social networks, like Facebook or Instagram, has also made sociality a universal phenomenon. So what’s the point of a (almost) debutante’s dance today? Yet from Vienna to Paris they are still organized.

Ralph and Russo for the wonderful gown-of HRH Princess Maria Carolina (da Instagram)
Ralph and Russo for the wonderful gown-of HRH Princess Maria Carolina (da Instagram)

In France, for exemple, the traditional debutante ball was organized from 1957 to 1973. But in 1994, Ophélie Renouard invented a modern version, which he called Le Bal. It is a dance evening which, in addition, aims to raise funds for charity. And, given that the girls have largely attended parties and social events, the real debut thanks to Le Bal is the media one, including photos published in gossip magazines and specialized websites. The idea has its own logic.

Debs and Chevaliers
Debs and Chevaliers

Le Bal also smells of exclusivity: only about twenty selected young women and as many cavaliers can participate, along with guests (non-debs) willing to pay for the event. By regulation, the knights wear the classic white tie, while the haute couture houses dress the Debs.
Diadema di diamanti con fiore di giglio in oro realizzato da Harakh e indossato per l'edizione 2019 di Le Bal a Parigi
Diadema di diamanti con fiore di giglio in oro realizzato da Harakh e indossato per l’edizione 2019 di Le Bal a Parigi

In a world that is always connected without borders, the Debs and the knights come from around 12 different countries and include the sons of famous managers, entrepreneurs, aristocrats, with a splash of the entertainment world. Some names to give an idea: Princess Fawzia Latifa of Egypt, Princess Sarah Poniatowska, Princess Adishree Singh, Princess Gauravi Kumari of Jaipur, Princess Akshita Bhanjdeo, Ananya Panday, Isha Ambani, Ashna Mehta, Elisabeth Senghor, Diane and Chloé Bouygues, Caroline and Nadine Ghosn. Or, this year, Jane Li, daughter of the iconic star of the Chinese action movie Jet Li.
Anello con diamanti a goccia di Harakh
Anello con diamanti a goccia di Harakh

What does the debutante dance have to do with jewelry? Well, for 2019 the official jeweler of the event, organized at the Shangri-La Hotel in Paris, was the Indian Harakh Mehta. His House, Harakh, a word that means joy, has provided high jewelry with pear-cut diamonds. The Maison is famous for its diamonds, mounted on platinum or 18k gold, and stones of color D, E, F and VS, VVS or IF (internally impeccable).
Orecchini Raindrop in oro bianco e diamanti di Harakh
Orecchini Raindrop in oro bianco e diamanti di Harakh

Harakh Mehta is a fourth-generation diamond specialist: family activity began in the early twentieth century between Gujarat and Rajasthan, and is currently based in Mumbai. The biographical note of the specific jeweler who habitually practices yoga and meditation. But, perhaps, now he also loves the ball.
Orecchini con cascata di diamanti di Harakh
Orecchini con cascata di diamanti di Harakh







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