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Gold at record, will it continue to rise?

Gold has reached an all-time high: will it continue to rise? Or was it just a blaze destined to go out? The answer interests both the world of jewelry and those who invest in the yellow metal. Everyone knows that the future is unpredictable even for the most experienced analysts. However, it is possible to draw a picture that can offer some indications.

Andamento del valore dell'oro a 5 anni
Trend in the value of gold over 5 years

At the beginning of March, gold prices in New York exceeded 2,140 dollars an ounce, with a peak of 2,145.40 dollars. Yet the previous record had been reached only three months earlier: on 4 December the value of gold had risen to 2,135 dollars, but then fell. The fundamental point, however, according to experts, is the exceeding of the 2,000 dollar mark in mid-February: a psychological threshold, which opens up to any scenario, so much so that in a week the yellow metal has increased by around 100 dollars.
Polsini in oro giallo a forma di vite e bullone. Prezzo: 4200 euro
Villa Gioielleria. Yellow gold screw and bolt shaped cufflinks

Why has the value of gold risen so much? There are two main factors: the geopolitical tensions that push towards safe haven assets and the maneuvers of large investment funds. The first factor is simple to understand: war in the Middle East, war in Ukraine, American elections which can be a factor of further uncertainty. Reasons that push many investors to bet part of their money on the solidity of gold. This factor conditions some investment funds which, also due to the algorithms that determine portfolio choices, join the trend. In this way they further fuel the rise in prices.
Bracciale in oro con la forma di teschio di ariete
Gold bracelet in the shape of a ram skull by Vicky Shawe. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Warning: it is not an automatic mechanism, destined to repeat itself forever. Another aspect that affects the price of gold is, for example, the trend in interest rates. Investors expect the Federal Reserve, the American central bank, to reduce rates as inflation appears to be under control. This expectation affects the yield of American government bonds and the price of the Treasury Bond has already partly reflected these expectations. If the value of bonds falls, many investors think, an alternative is to buy gold. Of course, if the Fed were to not lower rates and the wars around the world were to end or, at least, find a truce, gold would probably lose part of its appeal, with a reduction in prices.
Piccoli lingotti d'oro
Small gold ingots

Alo Yoga meditation jewels

Yoga jewelry. But it is not necessary to wear them while practicing an asana exercise. The idea comes from Alo Yoga, an American company specializing in clothing dedicated to those who practice the ancient Indian discipline or, more easily, the muscle relaxation technique widespread in the West. In any case, Alo Yoga, alongside leggings and sweatshirts, now also offers a collection dedicated to those who practice yoga or meditation.

Modella con le collane di Alo Yoga
Model with Alo Yoga necklaces

The capsule collection includes four pieces: necklaces composed of spheres of stones such as quartz, tiger’s eye, white turquoise and black onyx. The necklaces are made with 108 beads, a number that should be useful for reciting mantras. In the center is the Be Here pendant in 18k gold-plated palladium. The jewelery is made by an all-female team of Tibetan artisans and a portion of each sale will be donated to the care and education of children at the Manjushree Vidyapeth Orhpanage in the eastern Himalayas. The price is 215 euros or dollars.

Collana con perle occhio di quarzo rosa
Necklace with rose quartz eye beads
Collana con perle occhio di onice nero
CNecklace with black onyx eye pearls

The art of Carlo Luca della Quercia

Carlo Luca della Quercia, a story behind in the form of a snake ♦ ︎

A century of history that get revival: it is 27 years Carlo Luca della Quercia, brand born in the last century and rebuilt by Giovanni along with Carlo and Gian Luca in the eldorado of the Italian jewelery, Valenza, in 1997.
Carlo della Quercia studied gemmology at the Gia of New York and N.Y. University. Gian Luca studied in Milan and London with artistic title. This luggage has enabled the revival of historic jewels of the early twentieth century and art deco, preserved in the archives of the Maison. Among the jewels that more than others have found in the story of Carlo Luca della Quercia, there is the Serpenti series, one of the most famous jewel forms.

Bracciale Serpente con madreperla
Snake bracelet with mother of pearl

But that, to be realized as it should be, it needs a careful and expert working. Snakes are extensible bracelets of varying lengths, which can vary in length: from one lap to several laps. All are made entirely by hand, each single flange is connected to the next with retractable pins and with the introduction inside two gold springs extending in the opposite direction and they contribute to giving the maximum extension to the bracelet. Snake bracelets can only be gold in enamelled warm in different shades of gold in gold-plated mother of pearl, enriched with gemstones embedded in pavé on the head and beads in the eyes.
In short, in order to succeed it need have a great deal of expertise. And in fact, part of the company’s business takes place on behalf of major international Maison, which entrusts to their laboratory the realization of their own jewels.

Insomma, per riuscirci bisogna possedere una grande perizia. E infatti, parte della attività dell’azienda si svolge per conto di grandi Maison internazionali, che affidano al loro laboratorio la realizzazione di propri gioielli.

Anello in oro 18 carati, con zaffiro birmano, acquamarina e diamanti
18k gold ring, with Burmese sapphire, aquamarine and diamonds
Anello anni Sessanta con zaffiro di Ceylon di 18,16 carati e diamanti
1960s ring with 18.16 carat Ceylon sapphire and diamonds
Collana di smeraldi e ametista
Emerald and amethyst necklace
Anello serpente in oro, smalto, diamanti
Snake ring in gold, enamel, diamonds

Come vendere i vostri gioielli

Four tips before knocking at a jeweler’s door or trying to sell a jewel. It is not easy to conclude a good deal ♦

Is It A Good Time To Sell Jewelry? It depends. Wholesale diamond prices, for example, have dropped a lot compared to 2015. By contrast, the value of gold has returned to rise. But when you sell a jewel, the quality of the assembled stones comes into play, along with the design and the brand. A jewel of an established Maison takes the lead in evaluations, and for this reason many jewelers who easily accept necklaces, rings and bracelets that have the brand of famous jewelers. But if the stones used are of high quality, it is also possible for a jeweler to buy the jewel only to remove the precious stones to be fitted with a more modern design. But be careful: selling the grandma’s brilliant ring is not easy. At least: it is not easy to get a unique price. While gold has certain quotes, the diamonds have a number of aspects in the evaluation (How choose a Diamond)  that make it susceptible to different proposals regarding the price. Apart from this consideration, there are four aspects to consider.

Spilla con diamanti e perle
Brooch with diamonds and pearls

1. Think what you really have. Just because Grandma said his old diamond ring was precious (a gift from his beloved grandpa) does not mean that he really is. The sentimental value is one thing, the true is another. So, before running from the first jeweler, better to have a precise picture of its quality and genuineness. If it is a diamond of a certain size and weight, it is worth referring to a qualified expert who can give an impartial opinion of the characteristics and conditions of the stone. And also to highlight the positive attributes that could affect its value. But first get to know the cost of the exam: it must be worth it. Often a pawn shop offers a similar service.

Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds from around 1950

2. Get ready for a realistic price. Dreaming is beautiful, but we have to deal with reality. We said that the market is at a favorable time for the sale, but it depends very much on the type of stone mounted on the jewel. To get an idea, have a look at sales on eBay. Finally, before turning to a seller, think that you will buy only if you are convinced of a good deal, not for a favor.

Bracciale a forma di cigno bianco, con diamanti
White swan-shaped bracelet with diamonds

3. Consider selling options. Those who buy your jewel have two options: sell the piece to another industry or the public. Also consider taking the opportunity to contact a jewelery manufacturer: probably the price you can check will not be the best, but in return, the sale is very fast. But be careful to call on operators who have all legal permissions and a clear curriculum. Investigations on many gold shopping shops are showing that it is easy to come across dealers of dubious honesty. A brief survey on Google can be of help. By the way, there is also a site specializing in private online shopping (www.idonowidont.com). The mechanism offers a guarantee to seller and buyer (of course you pay a commission), but be careful: it is in English and there may be some customs problems.

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo e oro bianco
Ring with emerald cut diamond and white gold

4. Are you emotionally ready to sell? The hardest thing is not to come up with a good price, but be sure you want to sell a jewel that is usually part of your story as well. It tends to add an emotional value to a diamond on the engagement ring, and the disappointment on real market value can be a shock.

Anello in oro giallo con diamanti
Yellow gold ring with diamonds

5. Consider the auctions. If you have a jewel of a certain value, an interesting way is to propose it in an auction. In addition to the giants Sotheby’s and Christie’s, each country has auction houses that periodically organize auction sales. If the jewelry has an interesting shape, a price could be higher than that of a simple sale in jewelry. Federico Graglia

Un'asta condotta da David Bennett (Sotheby's)
An auction conducted by David Bennett (Sotheby’s)

How to choose an engagement ring

How to choose an engagement ring? We have asked several people, men and women.

Once upon a time, engagement rings were only made of yellow gold. It is the most traditional gold, the one that signals the value of the metal. Today, however, a yellow gold engagement ring has a slightly vintage feel, even if it always remains a classic. Someone prefers it this way, precisely because of its taste of a jewel from other times, but with a value that will remain intact for the future as well. In this case, however, it is better to choose a simple design, perhaps with a small diamond set.

Yellow gold. Once the engagement rings were made in yellow gold. It is the more traditional gold, which indicates that the value of the metal. Today, however, an engagement ring in yellow gold has a vintage feel. Some people prefer it so, just for its flavor jewel of other times. In this case , however, better to choose a simple design, perhaps with a small diamond.

Anello indossato della collezione Motion
Ring worn from PdPaola’s Motion collection

White gold. Beware: in reality there is the white gold. It is, you know, gold mixed with some metal without color, such as silver, nickel, manganese and/or (more rarely) palladium. Beware, then by those who proposed a ring in “pure white gold”. It is often coated with rhodium to give it a patina whiter and a brilliant finish. This type of ring after a few years it should be dipped again in a solution in order to maintain its white color and luster and replace the rhodium plating, otherwise it will return to the color of its main ingredient: yellow gold. It’s a hassle, but in reality the process is relatively inexpensive, and many jewelers offer this service for free.

Anello con diamante a taglio marquise
White gold ring with marquise cut diamond

Red and rose gold. The red gold is a alloy with copper. It’s not used traditional for engagement rings, less than complicated processes that combine white gold or yellow. An engagement ring in red gold, which is very fashionable for other types of jewelry, it is considered a bit too bling, inelegant. Of course, the design of the ring counts for a lot in the final judgment.

Anello doppio in oro rosa e diamanti indossato
Piaget, double ring in rose gold and diamonds worn

Platinum. This means that it has a natural white color, although slightly greyish. To be sold as a platinum ring should be composed of at least 90-95 per cent with this metal. Over time the color of the platinum does not tend to yellow, as for the white gold. But loses its glossy finish: some like it because that, by contrast, makes the diamond even more sparkling. Platinum, in any case, can be professionally polished to restore its original splendor, a process that is comparable in terms of cost of care for the white gold. In general, the color of white gold and platinum are similar, but not exactly the same thing: try to put a ring type on the same hand and you will see. White gold is more silvery, while platinum is more gray. The white diamonds beautifully complement them both, but beware: if your engagement ring is platinum, do not add a wedding band in white gold. Remain coordinated with the metal selected the first time is a better idea.

Anello in platino, morganite, diamanti
Platinum, morganite, diamond ring by Tomasz Donocik

The price. The biggest advantage of white gold than platinum is definitely the cost. Platinum is more expensive because it is more rare than gold. Every year there are only extracted 160 tons of platinum against 1,500 tons of gold. In addition, platinum is denser than the yellow metal: the same size ring will weigh significantly more platinum than gold (and precious metals are valued by weight). Broadly speaking, a gem in white gold costs about half an equivalent in platinum. So if you like the white and want to save, choose the gold.

Gioielleria Rocca a Bologna, ingresso
Rocca jewelry store in Bologna, entrance

Which gold to choose. Most of the engagement rings in gold are a 14 or 18 carat , usually marked with the initials 14k or 18k . The letter k means carat. The 14k gold is only 58.3 percent pure. The one on the 18k is 75 percent pure. The greater the amount karat, the purer the gold, but it is also less resistant. The gold in its purest form, in fact, is at 24k, but that state is too soft to use for jewelry complex: it deforms. Must be alloyed with other metals in order to harden and become resistant. To reinforce the gold is usually used in alloys nickel, but sometimes causes allergy. Platinum, however, is a strong metal, stronger and heavier than gold. Among other things, the platinum is more pure and is considered hypoallergenic. You can, however, also find white gold without nickel.

Mariah Carey con l'anello di alta gioielleria in oro bianco e diamanti. Photo: Koto Bolofo
Mariah Carey with the high jewelry ring in white gold and diamonds by Chopard. Photo: Koto Bolofo

Symbols. Gold historically indicates wealth, wisdom, and divine power. Remember the golden rules of the Bible? Or, the golden age or the golden years, which signify good times. And the 50th wedding anniversary is said to be one of the golden wedding. Gold is also considered by many as the traditional metal for wedding rings and engagement rings. Since it does not oxidize over time, helps to symbolize the pair of eternal harmony. Yet now it is platinum that seems to be the new symbol of wealth and prestige. Think of the “platinum credit card” which often has better benefits and privileges that the “credit card of gold.”  The choice is yours.

Anello con diamante a cuore indossato
Worn heart diamond ring

How narrows or widens a ring

You can tighten a ring, or enlarge it: read when and how you can do it ♦

What to do when the favorite ring has become too narrow or too wide? You can ask at the goldsmith to return the gold eliminated in this operation? Because the cost is so different between one ring and another? Here are six questions and six answers.

1 How do you enlarge a ring?

The goldsmith opens the circumference with a saw very thin. Then he picks up (if it has to tighten) or add a piece of metal similar to that of the ring. With pliers, joins the two pieces. At this point welding the ring and then proceeds with different polishing phase with brushes previously immersed in three different abrasive pastes, up to obtain the desired surface.

Anello da allargare
Ring to enlarge

2 It should be every time added another gold to enlarge a ring?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. If the ring has only need to widen up to less than a quarter of its original size and the metal is often, the jeweler may be able to modify your ring working on a mandrel and using the hammer to jeweler. But it is not likely to occur. Usually the ring is expanded with the addition of a small piece of gold or platinum. The ring is then welded again and polished.

Anello da stringere
Ring to tighten

3 How do you resize more little?

To resize a ring, a small section of the circular band is removed. Then the ring is shaped again and then welded. If there are stones on display, they must be tightened again in the griffe. There is a limit: if the stones can not be tightened there is the risk to falling out from the metal support.

Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili
Cazzaniga Nobili goldsmith workshop

4 You may retrieve the gold deleted when you resize a ring?

The amount of gold that is removed in the reduction process is usually so small that it wouldn’t make sense for a refund. Also, sometimes the ring must be polished and the gold is transformed into a fine powder which is sucked. The reduction of a ring requires a lot of skill: the milligrams of gold to the jeweler who remain, are largely discounted by the price of his labor.

Decisamente da stringere
Definitely to tighten

5 Why is it more expensive to widen or tighten some rings than others?

The cost of labor depends very much on the amount of work and by the size of the ring, on the weight and type of metal. To work the platinum is more expensive than gold, because it takes more heat and more attention. It is usually more expensive also work on rings with stones, that need special care. For example, only diamond, sapphire, ruby can withstand the heat of a welding flame. Other gems or should be removed from the ring, or require the use of a laser, because if they are heated, they burn and are hopelessly ruined. The more work and equipment needed for these rings raise the cost of the operation.

Controllate le misure della dita
Check your finger size

6 The size of the finger is different from store to store. Why?

Rings and fingers are measured with spindles. Between one and the other can be a different calibration and, therefore, may be a different measure of the circumference. The variation is usually between 1/4 and 1/2 of the size. In addition, the fingers can also change size depending on weather conditions (shaking with the cold, the heat swell), or due to the condition of health, or weight, and even the time of day.

Magic Wire with gold’s memory

Founded in 1960, Rancangelo is one of the largest jewelery companies based in Vicenza. Founded by Angelo Antonio Rancan, it has developed and is today led by his son, Pietro Rancan. The company produces high-end jewellery, under the Rancangelo brand, but has also recently launched the Magic Wire brand, born shortly before the pandemic. As in the rest of the company’s production, the basic element for Magic Wire is gold. But, as the name of the brand suggests, it plays on the shape of the soft and flexible wire.

Collezione Quadrati
Quadrati collection

To ensure flexibility and, at the same time, resistance, the gold wires have a titanium core. The combination of the two metals adds flexibility without the risk of losing the original shape of the jewel. The system is patented under the name Shape Memory. They are apparently simple and linear jewels, but which hide refined technology. As demonstrated by the Square and Onde collections, where the three-dimensionality of the jewel is combined with the movement of the soft gold thread.

Square rings are available with multiple strands, alongside bracelets, earrings and necklaces. The cleanliness of the shape is the real protagonist. The jewels of the Onde collection are a succession of curved lines of different widths. They move together with the different body postures or gestures of the wearer. In addition to gold, some models feature brilliant-cut diamonds.

Pianeti collection
Pianeti collection

Other Magic Wire lines are Angel, the brand’s evergreen, and Pianeti, of a minimalist nature. The iconic spiral ring is part of it, a best seller of the brand, thanks to its particularity and versatility which also make it perfect combined with other pieces. And the Perfect line adds diamonds to the essentiality of Angel.
Onde collection
Onde collection

Emi & Eve, give peace a chance

New jewels by Emi & Eve, the brand of an Italian designer born in London to help the Cambodian population ♦ ︎

Emi & Eve jewels are born from the creativity of a young designer, Cassandra Postema, graduated in Fashion and Textile Design at Central St. Martin College in London. A trip to Cambodia changed her life and gave her the right inspiration to start a project characterized by excellence in design, innovation and social responsibility. It is no coincidence that the name of the jewelry brand adds an explicit payoff: Bombs to Beauty. How to transform weapons into something beautiful, in short.
Read also: Emi & Eve jewels for peace

Anello Unity in ottone placcato oro 23,5 carati con corniola e topazio bianco
Unity ring in 23.5 carat gold plated brass with carnelian and white topaz

Cassandra has therefore decided to create an opportunity through jewels made in Cambodia and inspired by nature and oriental philosophies. The artisans who work for Emi & Eve use the metal recovered by Cmac agents (Cambodia Mine Action Center) and by local fishermen.
The basic material used in all the collections is brass, derived from the recycling of war remnants extracted from Cambodian soil. The brass is then gold plated to keep the color unchanged over time, in some cases with the addition of natural and untreated stones.

Anello Unity in ottone placcato oro 23,5 carati con onice e topazio bianco
Unity ring in 23.5 carat gold plated brass with onyx and white topaz
Anello in ottone placcato oro 23,5 carati
23.5 carat gold plated brass ring
Orecchini Unity in ottone placcato oro e topazio bianco
Unity earrings in gold-plated brass and white topaz
Orecchini Unity in ottone placcato oro e ametista
Unity earrings in gold-plated brass and amethyst
Orecchini River in ottone placcato oro e onice
River earrings in gold-plated brass and onyx
Bracciale in ottone e corniola
Brass and carnelian bracelet

L’oro è meglio se equo e solidale

Buying and selling gold jewelery extracted in mines that respect workers’ rights and reduce dangers, in addition to being an ethically right action, can become an advantage for marketing. Think about it: would you rather buy a jewel that cost the life of some underpaid miner or, with a minimal difference in price, gold that respected all civil rights? Fairtrade gold is the equivalent of fair trade for food. This reasoning is pushing numerous jewelry brands to specify the ethical origin of the material used and, in particular, of the gold. And ethical provenance, in addition to being laudable, also proves to be a powerful marketing tool.

Pepite d'oro
Gold nuggets

Fairtrade, says the presentation text, «offers a lifeline for artisanal and small-scale miners and their communities. Our passion is to see transparency, traceability, truth and justice in the living conditions of millions of artisans and small-scale miners around the world. Small-scale miners work in remote, marginalized and harsh conditions, doing life-threatening work. They are constantly exploited by brokers and their access to markets is limited and they rarely receive a fair price for their gold.” In short, the association tries to bring some balance to a world dominated by large mining multinationals.

Anello Eternity in oro Fairtrade
Eternity ring in Fairtrade gold by Mad

In recent years, the membership of around a hundred jewelers and gold artisans in Great Britain, for example, has brought the miners 100 thousand dollars in the form of bonuses. Those who join Fairtrade can purchase gold and silver ethically certified by five master licensees. Gold is semi-processed into sheets, wire, tube or grains. The annual consumption limit is 500 grams of gold or platinum, or 2 kilograms of silver. According to Reena Agarwal, coordinator of the association, «it is a great moment for small jewelers. The ethical jewelery market is growing rapidly and the Fairtrade mark is the most widely recognized certification worldwide. Fairtrade has a strong brand profile.”

Cercatore d'oro
Gold digger

In short, fair trade gold can also be an advantage in terms of sales. «Fairtrade for gold and precious metals is a very innovative initiative, offering a lifeline for poor, small-scale miners around the world. It’s the best way to communicate the benefits of responsibly sourcing metal to customers. In addition to registered jewelers, we also have 50 licensees for the purchase of large quantities of gold, who are authorized to stamp their jewellery”, adds Reena Agarwal, as reported by the Professional Jeweler website some time ago.

Anello Rose in oro 18 carati fairtrade
Rose ring in 18k fairtrade gold by Ute Decker

Gold at the highest, the forecast for 2024

Gold surpassed $2,100 an ounce, a record. Time to sell? Or to buy? A confidential report from the Dutch bank ING offers some suggestions.

For gold, the market seems to be accelerating for two reasons: expectations on the monetary policy strategies of central banks and geopolitical tensions, to which is added the uncertainty for the future of the stock market. The result is that the yellow metal reached $2,146 an ounce in December. The previous record of $2,075 was reached in August 2020, when the world was grappling with the covid pandemic and rates were below zero. Since the beginning of 2023 the increase has been approximately 15%. The end of the inflation threat should push central banks to lower rates and buying gold seems like a good idea to many international investors.

Lingotti d'oro
Gold bars

The two ongoing wars in Ukraine and Israel contribute to pushing towards a diversification of investments into more defensive assets, such as gold. Added to this is the policy of the central banks which have increased their gold reserves. In the third quarter of 2023, for example, gold reserves increased by 337 tonnes. And in the first nine months of the year, central banks purchased 800 tonnes (+14% on 2022) of yellow metal, more than a third of the mining production in the same period, which was already a record. And among the central banks, the most active was the Chinese one.
Lingotti d'oro in vendita
Gold bars for sale

Ing’s report
But will gold continue its run? A confidential report by the Dutch bank ING tries to answer this question. “We expect prices to remain above the $2,000 level next year as the global gold rush continues,” argue the authors, analysts Warren Patterson (Head of Commodities Strategy) and Ewa Manthey (Commodities Strategist). «We believe Fed policy will remain critical to the outlook for gold prices in the coming months. The strength of the US dollar and tightening central banks have weighed on the gold market for much of 2023. Higher rates are generally negative for gold” is the premise. “The latest US data shows that inflation and the labor market are cooling, with markets now pricing in a 50% chance of a rate cut in March and fully pricing in a rate cut in May.” This should support the rise in gold.
I gioielli in oro sono destinati ad aumentare di prezzo
Gold jewelery is set to increase in price

Even if the picture is not so schematic. For example, investments in gold-focused funds declined in 2023. Year-to-date, global outflows have amounted to $13 billion, equivalent to a 225-ton drop in reserves. Most of these sales came from European funds and North America. “Looking ahead to 2024, we believe we will see a resurgence of investor interest in the precious metal and a return to net inflows as gold prices rise as US interest rates fall,” Ing forecast.
Piccoli lingotti d'oro
Small gold ingots

Also pushing gold, as previously mentioned, is the central bank factor, which has increased its purchases, mainly China (+78 tons), Poland (+57 tons), Turkey (+39 tons) and India (+9 tons). China was the largest buyer of gold in 2023 in an 11-month buying spree. The People’s Bank of China has purchased 181 tonnes this year, bringing gold to 4% of its reserves. Not only that: in 2022 central banks purchased a record 1,136 tons of gold, compared to the 450 tons purchased in 2021, driven by the uncertainties caused by the war in Ukraine. One more reason, according to Ing, to continue supporting the value of gold to rise in 2024.

The prospects, however, according to analysts, are not to exceed the December 2023 record too much: «We expect gold prices to reach new highs next year and reach an average of 2,100 dollars per ounce in the fourth quarter, with an average of 2024 by $2,031 per ounce,” they write in the report. In short, the value of gold should remain high, around the levels of the end of 2023.

Le previsioni di Ing
Ing’s forecasts

The affordable luxury of Dana Rebecca

Third generation of jewelry designers, Dana Rebecca Gordon seems to have precious stones in her DNA. And in fact, she debuted with a line at just 16 and right after college (she is an American from Chicago): during the summer, she tells her, she went to India with my father and returned home with her my first collection. Immediately all sold. An encouragement to found the brand with the name Dana Rebecca.

Anello Sophia in oro bianco e diamanti
Sophia ring in white gold and diamonds

All her creations, which she defines as accessible luxury, start from the combination of gold and diamonds above all, although sometimes she loves working with different stones, for example tourmaline, moonstone, opal, aquamarine: many colors set in gold 14 carat. But these are timeless and very versatile jewels as they can be combined with the same ease with a couture dress or worn with a t-shirt and jeans. The collection for next season is also made up of many pieces, many earrings, and geometric shapes of different volumes: elegant jewels, but to be worn every day.

Pendente Sadie in oro giallo e diamanti baguette
Pendente Sadie in oro giallo e diamanti baguette

Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti baguette
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti baguette

Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti

Pendente com diamanti taglio marquise
Pendente com diamanti taglio marquise
Orecchini in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini a cerchio in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini a cerchio in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello eternity con topazio
Anello eternity con topazio

Clean the jewels with ketchup, beer and vodka

Tomato ketchup, vodka or beer to clean your jewelry. Yes, you can. If you do not have anything better at hand … ♦

At the table with jewels. To clean them. According to somebody, there are many ways to make brighter necklaces, rings and earrings: just use some products that are usually used in the kitchen. For example, ketchup, beer and vodka. Attention: we are not advising to follow these indications, especially for your most precious jewels. But, who knows, maybe it works …

Tomatensauce
Tomato sauce

For example, a bowl of ketchup can clean a ring dipped in red sauce after 5 or 10 minutes. Don’t leaving the jewel in contact with the sauce for too long: could cause damage. Clean everything with a toothbrush and rinse. Another useful food is beer: just pour a little on a clean cloth and rub gently to revive the gold. Better not to try, however, on light plating, and do not use dark beer.

Pulire i gioielli con l'acqua minerale
Pulire i gioielli con l’acqua minerale

Alcohol also likes diamonds: a small glass of vodka can restore brightness to the stones, but also to zirconia and crystal. Just pour the vodka on a soft cloth and carefully clean the jewels, or immerse the jewel in a glass full of the Russian liquor par excellence. Those who are teetotalers are consoled: sparkling water is excellent for resurrecting the splendor of the gems. Immerse a jewel with stones embedded in a glass with sparkling mineral water. Let it rest overnight: in the morning everything will be more shiny.
And after lunch? Brushing your teeth is a good hygiene rule. While you are there, however, you can use toothbrush and toothpaste on metal jewels or stones like diamonds or rubies. Then, rinse (before returning to the table).

Spazzolino e dentifricio sono utili anche per pulire i gioielli
Toothbrush and toothpaste are also useful for cleaning jewelry

Brusi and the asymmetric nature

The jewels of the small Milanese Maison Brusi, founded in 1930 ♦

Brusi is part of the many stories of Italian jewelry. A story that began in Milan in 1920, when the young Pietro Codari, a young goldsmith, started his business and opened a laboratory. The story continued: in 1970 his son Paolo inherited his laboratory and profession. Over time the company has expanded and has refined its vocation. Today, Paolo, Andrea and Simone, Paolo Codari’s three children, work in the family business and are responsible for the creative, financial and commercial management of Brusi.

Anello in oro con tanzanite e corona di diamanti
Gold ring with tanzanite and diamond crown

The company, located in a historic area of the city, between the Monumental Cemetery of Milan and the Chinese quarter, offers good quality pieces, based on gold, diamonds and precious stones. Rings with champagne diamond pavé and precious stones such as tanzanite are the workhorses. Always with the style of «almost symmetry». That is, that difference from the perfect geometric specularity that is often found in nature. The goal is to present jewelry in harmony with nature, thanks to this natural asymmetry. Subtle but interesting concept.

Anelli con smeraldi e zaffiri
Rings with emeralds and blue sapphires
Anelli con diamanti champagne
Anelli con diamanti champagne
Orecchini in oro, apatite, madreperla, diamanti brown
Orecchini in oro, apatite, madreperla, diamanti brown
Orecchini in oro e diamanti champagne e bianchi
Orecchini in oro e diamanti champagne e bianchi
Orecchini in oro e zaffiri blu
Orecchini in oro e zaffiri blu
Orecchini in oro e rubini
Orecchini in oro e rubini
Anello in oro bianco e tanzanite
Anello in oro bianco e tanzanite

Salvatore Arzani, hearts, flowers and fantasy

Pavé diamonds, gold, sapphires … These are the classic materials used to make Salvatore Arzani jewels ♦

One of the many luxury craft workshops that are found in Valenza is Salvatore Arzani. It is a small company, but with great quality, so it can sells abroad most of its production. As often happens in the Piedmont town, the company is the daughter of a long tradition. Together with the wife of founder, daughters and a dozen virtuosos of embedding, engraving and welding machine, the small brand is a kind of summary of what the Italian craftsmanship and design in jewelery.

Collana in oro bianco 18 kt con pendente chicco di riso in pavé di diamanti
18 kt white gold necklace with grain of rice pendant in pavé diamonds

For example, with a collection of unique pieces in 18 carat gold and diamonds, with extensive use of colored stones that dot the large rings that make up the chains. Even collections such as Fantasia, in any case, follow the classical canons of diamonds, whites, blacks or colored stones like sapphires pavé that make sometimes resemble mosaics and a winding arabesques. Bracelets, big rings, pendants in the shape of hearts or flowers, are the cornerstones of signed Salvatore Arzani jewelry.

Anello-in-oro-bianco--18-kt-con-incassati-diamanti-taglio-brillante.
18 kt white gold ring set with brilliant-cut diamonds
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti a forma di fiore
Flower-shaped ring in white gold and diamonds
Anelli con diamanti e zaffiri della collezione Fantasia
Rings with diamonds and sapphires from the Fantasia collection
Anelli rosa con diamanti bianchi, neri e colorati
Pink rings with white, black and colored diamonds
Catena in oro e diamanti
Chain in gold and diamonds
Anelli catena in oro bianco, giallo e diamanti
Chain rings in white and yellow gold and diamonds

The atomic jewels of Settantove Studio

Whoever reads this article wears, or has in their drawer, at least one piece of gold jewellery. But, probably, he doesn’t know it fully. He does not know, for example, that the atoms that make up the gold of his jewel are composed of 79 electrons. It seems like a superfluous detail, but it isn’t: gold is gold precisely because it has that certain number of elementary particles. And it is also the reason that led Gioia Lelli, a designer from Forlì, to call her jewelry brand Settantanove Studio. The word Studio, however, indicates the search for an essential and contemporary design. The designer’s choice, however, does not derive from a scientific background: before dedicating herself to jewellery, Gioia graduated in pedagogy and worked in the school sector.

Anello cuore in oro 18 carati
Heart ring in 18k gold

The jewels of Settantanove Studio, therefore, can only be in 18 karat gold, with a design that is defined as composed of simple and essential lines. The jewels are designed by Gioia and are taken care of down to the smallest detail, from the design phase to their creation, with entirely handmade workmanship and meticulous attention to detail. Attention is also paid to the choice of materials: Settantanove Studio prefers the use of ethical gold deriving from mines that respect specific environmental and social standards. The precious and semi-precious stones are supplied by certified companies. Finally, the brand uses packaging made with recyclable materials.

Collana Luna
Moon necklace
Orecchino in oro con acquamarina
Gold earring with aquamarine
Orecchini Bold in oro
Bold earrings in gold
Collana Puro Amore con acquamarina
Puro Amore necklace with aquamarine

The body art by Anissa Kermiche

Anissa Kermiche, a designer with the temptation of small provocations that enhance the female body, but not just ♦ ︎

From engineer become a jeweler: it is not a usual the Anissa Kermiche path. Born in Paris to a French-Algerian marriage, had, she says, a strict upbringing. Perhaps for that, or perhaps as a reaction to the engineering profession, after graduating he flew to London to learn 3D Computer Aided Design at Holts Academy in Hatton Gardens. She wanted to create jewelry. And she managed quite well. Now its brand, Anissa Kermiche, includes jewelry in gold and diamonds and a pinch of provocation, as the earrings with the challenge finger raised, or pendant depicting a naked woman torso. In short, exactly what one would not expect from a girl with degree in engineering.

Orecchino a bottone in oro 9 carati
Orecchino a bottone in oro 9 carati

Moreover, it also boasts a very pretty appearance, perhaps even more than pretty, and so it is a perfect ambassador of herself. Of course, in her jewelry there isn’t shortage of geometric references. But she prefers to be inspired by artists such as Francois Morellet, Alexander Calder and Constantin Brancusi. So he decided the destiny: the streets to jewelry are endless.

Bracciale in argento dorato con perle di acqua dolce
Golden silver bracelet with fresh water pearls
Bracciale in oro 14 carati con tanzanite
14k gold bracelet with tanzanite
Orecchino Brönte a cerchio in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Brönte hoop earring in 14k gold and diamonds
Collana Buonanotte in argento placcato e smalto
Goodnight necklace in plated silver and enamel
Collana Le Derrière Sanded, argento placcato
Le Derrière Sanded necklace, silver plated
Orecchino con perle
Pearl earring
Anissa Kermiche
Anissa Kermiche

Jewelry and gold: real or fake? Questions and answers

True or false? Can gold be recognized with a bite? Is real jade cold? Is cubic zirconia, often confused with zircon, indistinguishable from diamond? Does silver cause allergies? Is 925 the number of perfect silver? Do the reflections of a stone have to be rainbow? These are among the many questions we often receive and their answers.

To check that your jewel of gold genuine need to bite him.

FALSE Pure gold is a very soft metal and, in fact, teeth can easily leave a mark if it is very pure, 24 carats. But biting it is neither a guarantee nor a recommendable test. Furthermore, it can damage your teeth. Not to mention that lead is even softer than gold: a jewel that uses gold-plated lead could easily be mistaken. Furthermore, 18 karat gold is usually used for jewelry, or even less: 14 and even 9 karat. It is gold alloyed with other metals: this makes the gold less malleable and also less expensive. In short, in reality, in addition to gold, we also end up biting other metals such as silver, copper, palladium, nickel.

Biting gold is not a guarantee
Biting gold is not a guarantee

True or false? To find out if a stone is genuine need to look at it in the light.

TRUE Note: the only truly reliable way to identify a gemstone is the opinion of a gemologist or a jeweler, or laboratory tests. That said, here’s a helpful hint to decide whether it is worthwhile to consider the stone of a ring or a necklace. Place the stone against the sunlight and look at the range of colors it produces. The authentic gemstones usually show a rainbow that will be reflected on a nearby surface. Most of the real gems will produce a full range of colors: the stone closer to the eye and tilt it, you should see a rainbow. The stones that produce nothing are often false. We repeat: it is not a final proof: for some stones, especially those very dense, deep coloring or that were not completely polished, the system may not work. But it is a little test should not be overlooked.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show
Examination of a diamond jewel

A cubic zirconia is virtually the same as a diamond, only it costs less.

FALSE What is commonly called a zircon is actually a cubic zirconia: an artificial stone that resembles a diamond. It’s brilliant, but much, much cheaper. In fact, it is just very difficult to distinguish it from a real diamond if you are not an expert. It is a cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide. It is a very hard synthetic material, optically perfect and usually colorless, although it can be made in a variety of different colors. It should not be confused with natural zircon, a stone composed of zirconium silicate, often blue in color. Cubic zirconia is sometimes mistakenly called “cubic zirconium”. Commercial production began in 1976. Its main competitor as a laboratory-created gem is synthetic moissanite.

Cubic zirconia
Cubic zirconia

The silver cause allergies and skin turns green.

FALSE The color is not caused by an allergy is a reaction to the metals used in jewelry and it is often fused with silver, especially when the skin sweats. In short, it indicates that silver is not pure. It is the copper and silver often result in a green halo on the skin. Sterling silver, for example, is 7.5 percent of an alloy with copper. The most common stains left by Sterling Silver Jewelry, in any case, are black and not green. Some sterling silver jewelry are coated with products that help them to maintain the patina, but the coatings may fade over time.

Bracciali in argento a maglia geometrica con charm
Geometric mesh silver bracelets with Pandora charms

The number 925 indicates that the jewelry is real silver.

TRUE In the inner part of a jewel, engraving or stamping the number 925 indicates that the material is, in fact 925, the most common alloy. Of course, the warranty covers: nothing prevents that was affixed to a false jewel, but usually not the case for silver.

In questo orecchino di Giovanni Raspini è ben visibile la punzonatura con il numero 925
In this earring by Giovanni Raspini the hallmark with the number 925 is clearly visible

The Chinese store near your house has rings of jade at a very good price. Can I trust you? They told me that the real jade is cold.

TRUE The temperature is not sufficient proof, but it gives an indication: the jade is poorly conductive. Place it in a sensitive part, for example on the face, it is easy to feel a sensation of cold. Another easy tip is to try to carve the stone with the nail: the true jade is very tough and not show a scratch. The same test can be conducted with a very hot object: the real jade will not show signs of the contact. Finally, authentic jade usually has small imperfections, which are common in nature. A perfect stone should you be born a suspect. In any case, real jade is very expensive.

Anello Palloncino con giada
Palloncino Ring with green jade by Vhernier

5 rules for selling your gold jewelry

Is it a good idea to sell your jewelry? How do you sell a ring, a necklace or earrings? Here are the things to know before selling your precious jewels: the first thing to check is … ♦

The price of gold rises, falls, goes up again. Will it be the right time to sell your jewelry? If you have a gold jewel, before selling it is better to get an idea of ​​the quotation of the yellow metal. But what is the real price? If the jewel is of a great Maison, with diamonds or other precious stones, it is better to have it evaluated by at least three different jewelers: the evaluations can be very different.

Gioielli in oro
Gold jewelry

If, however, your jewelry is made in large part of gold, the first thing to do is look carefully at the charts of the quotes (but also silver and platinum). The experts can also follow the lists of the New York Spot Gold or London Fix. Which one is better? Depends: the first is a price index mainly for transactions in the United States, while the latter refers to European and international markets. It is not a small detail if you intend to sell an important jewel, because the buyer could make his assessment on the most convenient square for him. Knowing, however, the price of gold serves to get an idea of ​​the price: better not to trust what some operators who buy jewelry by weight explain. Here, then, five tips to sell their golds at best.

Isabelle Fa, collana in oro indossata. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Isabelle Fa, gold necklace worn. Copyright: gioiellis.com

1 Identify price changes: if there is an upward surge in gold prices, London Fix is ​​the first to record its growth, so this is the best market for the seller and obviously not for the buyer. We repeat: this applies to jewels that have a certain weight. For a few grams the difference is not much.

2 Learn gold weights and measures: it is essential, because even if buyers use grams as a unit of measure, in reality the value on the international market is set in ounces. And 1 oz is equivalent to 31.1 grams. So, to understand the current price you just have to multiply the value by 1 ounce by 31.1.

Lingotti d'oro
Gold bars

3 Check the carats of the jewels: the official price of gold is that of pure metal, at 24 carats. But no modern jewel has 24 carats. The jewels are made of gold combined with other metals, to increase resistance, or simply to lower the price. 14-carat gold means, for example, that only 58.3% of your jewelry is made of gold. The rest can be nickel, silver, copper … So when you go to sell the jewel, it will be calculated not for its total weight, but in that relative to the gold part. Attention, 9-carat jewels are often advertised as gold, but when sold they are not considered as such.

Lavorazione di gioielleria
Jewelry making

4 Calculate and compare the best price: It is better to measure and accurately weigh jewels before going to any store, to get an idea (on the internet special scales are on sale). Also, keep in mind that those who buy gold do not pay the theoretical price of the list, because they must merge the jewel and, obviously, add its percentage of income, on which the taxes are paid. Basically, if you have calculated well the value of your gold jewel taking into account the percentage present in the alloy (the carats) and its weight, you must remove at least a good 30%.

Lavorazione orafa. Foto: LaPresse
Goldsmith workmanship. Photo: LaPresse

5 Get the best price: Internet is a good channel for buying jewelry, but not for selling. Some buyers apply discounted rates up to 50% compared to some stores “buy gold”: the same necklace of 14 carats could be estimated at half The jewelers could, however, pay more if they detect a fine craftsmanship, because the jewel it could be transformed and reused.

Controllate il peso del gioielli
Check the weight of the jewelry

The eight gold colors of Annamaria Cammilli

Annamaria Cammilli is the only Maison to offer gold jewelery with eight different shades.

There are those who bet everything on white gold, perhaps accompanied by a small diamond. There are those who expand the choice to the three classic colors of metal: yellow, pink and white. But only a Maison has expanded beyond these boundaries and has expanded the color palette of gold. With four? Nah. Five? Not even. Annamaria Cammilli had pushed herself up to seven colors of gold. Until yesterday. Because the brand from Florence has further expanded the color palette with Brown Chocolate. The colors of gold for which the brand is famous, in short, have become eight.

Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Natural Beige
Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Natural Beige

Gold changes color in exclusive shades that are the result of fusions of special alloys. But all colors are strictly 18 carat gold.

Anello della collezione Aqua in oro 18Kt Giallo Lemon Bamboo e Giallo Sunrise (al centro) con diamanti
Anello della collezione Aqua in oro 18Kt Giallo Lemon Bamboo e Giallo Sunrise (al centro) con diamanti

The eight gold colors proposed by Annamaria Cammilli are: Lemon Bamboo Yellow, Sunrise Yellow, Ice White, Champagne Pink, Brown Chocolate, Lava Black, Apricot Orange, Natural Beige.

Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Bianco Ice 18Kt con diamanti
Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Bianco Ice 18Kt con diamanti

The nuances introduced over the years by Annamaria Cammilli range from sunrise yellow to champagne pink, up to black, through white and natural beige. Even the new jewels in the chocolate shade use the classic finish of the surface of the satin gold, one of the distinctive signs of the Maison. The special work in which the brand is famous is also found in the new collections, which we will discuss in other articles on gioiellis.com. M.B.

Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Rosa Champagne con diamanti
Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Rosa Champagne con diamanti
Anello della collezione Serie Uno in oro Brown Chocolate con diamante
Anello della collezione Serie Uno in oro Brown Chocolate con diamante
Anello della serie Regina in oro Giallo Lemon Bamboo 18Kt con Brillanti
Anello della serie Regina in oro Giallo Lemon Bamboo 18Kt con Brillanti
Orecchini della collezione Premiere in oro Nero Lava con diamanti
Orecchini della collezione Premiere in oro Nero Lava con diamanti
Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Arancio Apricot
Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Arancio Apricot

What are carats?

How many carats is your diamond in? And how many karats is your gold ring instead? For those who are not a jewelry expert or do not know the basic rules of the world of jewelry, the carats are a big mess. The carats that are the unit of measurement needed for precious stones and pearls, in fact, are a completely different thing from the karats that refer to gold. Did you know? In English, everything is easier: the carats that measure diamonds start with the letter C while those for gold start with the K. In other languages, however, it is written the same way and everything is more complicated.

This is why we must be careful not to confuse the different concepts: the carats of diamonds (or rubies, emeralds, sapphires, etc.) with the karats that are related to gold. Here’s how to distinguish.

Diamante a cuore di Recarlo
Diamond in the heart of Recarlo

The carats of the stones

The carat (the abbreviation is ct) is a unit that indicates the mass of a stone or pearl. Carats are used for convenience, after in past each country regulated itself differently for centuries. For those who traded in diamonds or other stones it was therefore difficult to work. In Florence, for example, the basic unit of measurement was equivalent to 197.2 milligrams, while in London to 205.49. After much discussion, in the end, in 1907 it was decided to adopt 200 milligrams as a carat measure. A single carat, therefore, equals one fifth of 1 gram.

Anello con diamante bianco ovale da 31,82 carati
31.82 carat oval white diamond ring

Now you know exactly how much the diamond on your finger weighs: divide the number of carats by five and you will have the weight in grams. Or, more easily, in milligrams, since it is not common to wear a diamond that weighs 5 carats (and therefore 1 gram). for this reason the carat is divisible into 100 points of 2 milligrams.

Anello di Van Cleef & Arpels a forma bombata con diamanti
Van Cleef & Arpels rounded shape ring with diamonds

By the way, why is the carat called so? The origin seems to be linked to carob seeds. The word carat derives from the Arabic qīrāṭ قيراط, which however is derived from the Greek kerátion κεράτιον, which indicates carob seeds. And these seeds were used to weigh jewels, thanks to their always regular shape. Then the term carat was used in Italy and later in the rest of the world. The use of the carat unit of measurement to weigh diamonds dates back to 1570.

Selezione dei diamanti nel laboratorio di Antwerp (Anversa)
Selection of diamonds in the Tiffany laboratory in Antwerp

The karats of gold

The carats of diamonds, precious stones and pearls refer to weight. The karats of gold, on the other hand, indicate the percentage of yellow metal present in a jewel, its fineness. The term karat has prevailed among the many systems adopted in the past and, in particular, on the measurement of pounds and ounces, which are still used for the weight of gold, platinum or silver. So why this confusion? Simple: the ancient origin of the word is the same, i.e. the carats used to measure precious materials.

Anello a fascia in oro 22 carati
Band ring in 22 carat gold

In the case of the karats that refer to gold, however, they indicate the thousandths of quantities of gold (or other precious metals) contained in an alloy. The maximum, as regards gold, is 24 karats. You will never find gold of 25 or more carats. The 24 karats indicate that the gold is 100% pure. The 24 karats are the basis for calculating the rest (always for gold). The 18-karat jewels, therefore, are 75% gold. It is calculated as follows: 18: 24 = 0.75. Similarly, a jewel with 14% gold means that it contains slightly more than half of gold, the rest are other metals (14: 24 = 0.58).

In some cases, the karats of gold can also be indicated with the number that refers to the percentage (the result of the arithmetic division). For example, 18-karat gold can also be indicated with the initials 750, 14-karat gold with 583 and so on. Again, if you read the number 375 in a jewel, know that it equals 9 karats.

The karats are also used for silver. The silver sterling, for example, contains 92.5% of silver and 7.5% of other metals, generally copper. It is generally referred to as 925 silver.

Anello Wave Stacking in oro 24 carati
Menē, Wave Stacking ring in 24 carat gold
Anello Bahia in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Bahia ring in 18K gold and diamonds
Anello in oro rosa 14 carati
14K rose gold ring
Anello in oro rosa 9 carati e diamante ice
Ring in 9 carat rose gold and ice diamond
Anello in argento satinato e lucido
Satin and polished 925 silver ring
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