jewelry - Page 10

Circles and straight lines with Jolly Bijou

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From the world of fashion in Paris and London to the world of jewelry in New York: the flight across the Atlantic Ocean was carried out by the French designer Caroline Denis, who in 2017 founded the Jolly Bijou brand in Brooklyn, where she lives and produces the his jewels. After 15 years of working with brands such as Saint-Laurent and Chloé, where she was responsible for image and visual identity, Caroline flew with her husband and children to the United States. First she went back to school at the Gemological Institute of America. Then, she put her experience and her new skills to good use.

Anello in oro 14 carati con zaffiri rosa
Anello in oro 14 carati con zaffiri rosa

From France, however, she brought with her the taste for Art Déco in a modern version, used for her collections of 14-karat gold jewelry, with an abundance of gems such as tourmalines and colored sapphires, tsavorites and topazes, which are aligned to compose lines straight lines and broken circles: geometric shapes that, thanks to the colored stones, are very cheerful. Her jewelry is handmade in New York.
Collana in oro con zaffiri colorati
Collana in oro con zaffiri colorati

Orecchini in oro con tormaline
Orecchini in oro con tormaline
Orecchini in oro con tormalina verde
Orecchini in oro con tormalina verde
Orecchini in oro rosa 14 carati con tormalina verde
Orecchini in oro rosa 14 carati con tormalina verde

Anello in oro rosa con rodolite
Anello in oro rosa con rodolite







Jamie Wolf, jewels at dance step

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From stage to laboratory, from paso doble to carats, from exercises at mirror to sketches on paper: Jamie Wolf was a star in two different worlds, that of ballet and, now, that of jewelry. In fact, the designer was a dancer at the New York City Ballet for about ten years, since she was 17. But the world of ballet involves intense commitment, along with long breaks when the show season takes a stop. And during those moments Jamie Wolf began composing jewelry. First with simple models and then more and more professional, which she began to sell to the members of the dance company.

Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti e opali
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti e opali

Given the success of her second job, in 2006 the dancer left the stage and became a full-time jeweler. Successfully: an engagement ring made by Jamie Wolf ended up on Natalie Portman’s finger. The jewels are handmade in New York, with 18K yellow, white and rose gold. Engagement rings, earrings, classic or floral motifs are also for sale online on various platforms.

Collana in oro giallo e diamante
Collana in oro giallo e diamante
Anello in oro giallo e diamanti bianchi e anneriti
Anello in oro giallo e diamanti bianchi e anneriti
Anello in oro giallo e diamanti bianchi
Anello in oro giallo e diamanti bianchi
Anello in oro giallo e tormaline verdi
Anello in oro giallo e tormaline verdi
Orecchini in oro con topazi bianchi
Orecchini in oro con topazi bianchi

Anello in oro con tormalina rosa
Anello in oro con tormalina rosa







The long roots of Madhuri Parson

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Having a grandfather who sells precious stones wholesale in London, Paris and Geneva is a good starting point. In addition, Madhuri Parson has a family that has been doing business with gems and jewelry for six generations, based in Jaipur, India. As she spent her time observing the Indian city’s artisans working gold and gems, the designer was probably already thinking about what she would do when she grew up. Jewelery, of course. Now Madhuri is based in New York, where she studied gems at Gia and jewelry design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, but she also works in Japipur and Mumbai. Curiously, however, all this came after an experience in the world of technology, in Silicon Valley.

Anello in oro 14 carati con zaffiri, topazio bianco
Anello in oro 14 carati con zaffiri, topazio bianco

The family roots, however, have fortunately taken over. Madhuri Parson launched her first collection in 2011 in the United States. Like other Indian-born designers, she likes to mix oriental motifs with modern western aesthetics. In addition to making bespoke pieces, she sells high-end retailers such as Harvey Nichols in London and Bloomingdale’s in the US, or online at Moda Operandi.
Anello Trio in oro giallo 14 carati e diamanti
Anello Trio in oro giallo 14 carati e diamanti

Bracciale Trio in oro giallo 18 carati e diamante
Bracciale Trio in oro giallo 18 carati e diamante
Orecchini con diamanti in oro giallo 18 carati e smalto indiano, diamanti taglio rosa
Orecchini con diamanti in oro giallo 18 carati e smalto indiano, diamanti taglio rosa
Orecchini con tormalina in oro giallo 14 carati
Orecchini con tormalina in oro giallo 14 carati
Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo 18 carati  e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti

Orecchini con madreperla e rubini su oro bianco
Orecchini con madreperla e rubini su oro bianco







How to become a jewelry designer




Designing jewels, creating rings, necklaces, earrings, designing entire collections of jewelry: it is a dream that sometimes becomes reality. But how do you become a jewelry designer?
Becoming a jewelry designer isn’t difficult, but it’s not easy either: it depends on many factors. But, first of all, why do you want to become a jewelry designer? Are you planning to open your own boutique and also become a jeweler? Or are you thinking of looking for a job in a large company that produces jewelry? Or, finally, would you like to simply show your creativity with handcrafted jewelry designed by you?

Harry Winston, schizzo di anello con granato mandarino
Harry Winston, schizzo di anello con granato mandarino

Several options. Although designing jewelry may seem like a precise activity, designing rings, earrings and necklaces is not always the same thing: it depends on the context in which you find yourself. An artisanal activity, in which a few handmade jewels are designed, is different from preparing the design of a collection for a large brand. In the first case, for example, a craftsman can more easily adapt the design of a jewel to the materials available to him, as the size or shape of the stones. A large company, on the other hand, needs to design jewels that are always the same, with standard stone sizes and more easily achievable in large-scale production. Furthermore, in a large company the designer creates after having received the indications on the type of jewel to create, also in terms of cost.
Schizzo preparatorio per anello
Schizzo preparatorio per anello

Paint jewelry. In short, if you imagine the activity of a designer as that of a painter who draws wonderful jewels with many colored stones on cardboard, you should know that this is not the case. But, sure, designers often use a preparatory sketch for their best jewelry. It takes an artist’s hand to draw a necklace with pencil and tempera colors. Keep in mind, however, that it is not easy: the sketch must be very proportionate, because even the difference in tenth of a millimeter, in reality, is of great importance. You need to know how to evaluate the size of a stone you want to insert: most jewels, for example, use gems of predefined dimensions. In any case, no one will ever prevent you from designing your collections starting from a sheet of paper, a pencil and a thin brush. But then you have to know how to do something else.
Laura Bicego, designer e fondatrice di Nanis
Laura Bicego (a sinistra), designer e fondatrice di Nanis

After the sketch. Of course, to create a jewel you have to start from an idea. At this stage, drawing sketches on paper with a pencil can be helpful. Thus, the final design of the jewel is approached. The preliminary sketch will be the basis on which to work. This is the beginning of the creative process. The second step, on the other hand, is to transform the idea, the aesthetics of the jewel, into a project that is achievable. The jewel must not only be pleasant to look at, but also sturdy enough despite being made up of a few grams of metal. In addition, it must also be pleasant to wear, not too heavy or uncomfortable in contact with the skin. All aspects that need to be refined.
Vanessa Martinelli, designer di Lugano (Svizzera) in una foto pubblicata su Facebook
Vanessa Martinelli, designer di Lugano (Svizzera) in una foto pubblicata su Facebook

3D design. After a possible sketch on paper, in most cases the jewel must be designed for industrial production. It needs takes precise measurements, which must be transferred to the production machinery. Obviously, the designer’s job consists in proposing something original, but also achievable with the tools available to the company. Of course, if the jewel is handmade in an artisanal way, the expert eye of the person making it will be especially important. But normally the artistic work on paper is transformed into a special 3D CAD (Computer Aided Design) file with the use of special software. In a certain type of production, for example, the file can later be used to create a plastic model made with a 3D printer. This prototype is then used to make a plaster mold that will be used to proceed with the subsequent processing of the jewel. This last part must also be well known to the designer, who must design jewels that can actually be worked. But at that point the designer is already thinking about the next collection.
Nikos Koulis
Nikos Koulis, grande designer-gioielliere

Training. In short, how do you become a designer? In the world of jewelry there is no shortage of great designers with a self-taught path. But they are exceptions. To become a good designer you don’t need to be skilled only in drawing. Fantasy is not enough. It is necessary to know the whole production cycle of the jewel and, better still, to have at least knowledge of gemology. For example, you need to know the difference in treatment between an opal and a diamond. Furthermore, it is evident, it is necessary to know how to design a jewel. You can learn all this, or almost all, with an apprenticeship in a goldsmith’s shop, or directly in a jewelry company. And there are many who have followed this path, especially in the jewelry districts, such as Valenza in Italy, Geneva in Switzerland or Pforzheim in Germany. But the best solution is to enroll in a jewelry school. There are many, in all major countries and major cities. In fact, once out of school, a small jewelry brand may just ask for a trial period to test your skills. But large companies in the sector can ask for a practical test, organize several interviews to test your preparation and even a written exam. In short, even to become a jewelry designer, creativity is not enough: you need to broaden your knowledge.

Garavelli, progettazione Cad
Garavelli, progettazione Cad







Brooke Gregson’s Nature Stones

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Between London and Los Angeles to make jewelry different from the usual. Perhaps one of the keys to understanding Brooke Gregson‘s work is also her experience as a fabric designer alongside her art history studies. Not to mention that her father was apparently a passionate jewelry collector and this helps. Unfortunately, the designer is also part of the group of people who believe that stones have healing powers (question: why, then, not sell them in pharmacies? Have you ever tried to wear a ring to relieve the headache? We are in 2021 .. .) as well as the inevitable astrology. Ok, let’s forget it and look at jewelry for what it is: jewelry.

Anello in oro 18 carati, smalto e diamanti
Anello in oro 18 carati, smalto e diamanti

Opals, aquamarines, sapphires, rubies and rough diamonds accompany necklaces that Brooke Gregson calls amulets and since she creates them she must be a very lucky person. The designer, born in California, also studied in Shoreditch, an artistic area of ​​London near the equally trendy neighborhood of Hoxton, and graduated from the Chelsea School of Art. A trip to Japan, among the gardens of Kyoto, was the spring of inspiration for the 2018 collection, which is inspired by geisha kimonos, with the use of silk laces for the bracelets, but also by Tokyo architecture. All jewels are made entirely in London and Los Angeles.

Orecchini in oro, slice diamonds
Orecchini in oro, slice diamonds
Anello in oro con slice diamond (sezione di diamante grezzo)
Anello in oro con slice diamond (sezione di diamante grezzo)
Bracciale con laccio in seta, oro, diamanti, smalto
Bracciale con laccio in seta, oro, diamanti, smalto
Pendente in oro 18 carati, smalto verde, diamanti
Pendente in oro 18 carati, smalto verde, diamanti
Pendente in oro 18 carati, smalto, diamante
Pendente in oro 18 carati, smalto, diamante
Anello in oro, smalto, slice diamond
Anello in oro, smalto, slice diamond







The good deeds of Āzlee

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Fashion, photography, the glossy pages of Glamor and Allure Magazines in New York. But, then, a dive into the reality of Guatemala, on the shores of Lake Atitlan: for the designer Baylee Ann Zwart, who grew up between Colorado and California, the change of atmosphere was radical. But, from that experience in the Central American country, in an organization that produced accessories for fair trade with women artisans, the idea of ​​her jewelry brand, Āzlee, was born: a word that is a combination of her middle name, surname and name. In any case, in Guatemala she experienced the thrill of making her first jewels together with local artisans. And Baylee Ann fell in love with jewelry.

Ciondolo in oro con smeraldo
Ciondolo in oro con smeraldo

She describes her production of her as inspired by Art Deco, quite vaguely, alongside the shapes of ancient jewelry, as evidenced by the ring with the owl that represents the goddess Athena according to Greek mythology. Another source of inspiration for Āzlee is the sea, indeed, the ocean. Perhaps this is why her 18-karat gold and platinum jewels are made in Los Angeles with fair trade gold and, above all, 100% recycled. The same solidarity program for the stones, with vintage and already used gems, to limit new extractions. Her clients include Emma Watson, Rihanna, Bella and Gigi Hadid, Zoë Kravitz and Scarlett Johansson.
Anello in oro con diamante taglio smeraldo
Anello in oro con diamante taglio smeraldo

Anello in oro inciso
Anello in oro inciso
Orecchini in oro e smeraldi
Orecchini in oro e smeraldi
Collana in occhio di tigre e oro
Collana in occhio di tigre e oro
Orecchini in oro 18 carati
Orecchini in oro 18 carati

Anello in oro con il gufo simbolo della dea Atena
Anello in oro con il gufo simbolo della dea Atena







Traveling with jewelry, here are the biggest dangers




Traveling with jewelry. Do you dream of beaches, mountains, cities of art? Warning: before leaving for the holidays or for a simple weekend it is good to know the dangers lurking for your beloved jewels. If you want to know what are the right moves to protect your jewelry during a trip, read this article.

In viaggio con i gioielli
In viaggio con i gioielli

Here, instead, we talk about which are the most frequent dangers for those who walk around rings, necklaces and earrings. Warning: this does not mean that you have to resign yourself to walking around without an ornament around your neck or on your hand. You simply need to pay more attention to what appear to be traps for less careful travelers.
Un piacevole bagno, ma senza gioielli
Un piacevole bagno, ma senza gioielli

A sort of ranking of situations in which it is easier to lose sight of one’s jewelry was identified by a recent survey conducted by Jewelers Mutual, a company specializing in jewelry insurance. Who better than an insurer knows what their customers are facing? In fact, 20% of those who turned to Jewelers Mutual said they had lost jewelry during a trip or were the victim of a theft while on vacation. Here, then, are the 6 situations of greatest danger for those traveling with jewels.
La spiaggia è nemica dei gioielli
La spiaggia è nemica dei gioielli

1 Jewel lost on the beach. Sand is the number one enemy of jewels. Not only does it ruin them when it comes into contact with metal and stones, but it often hides them beyond repair. Earrings and rings are the most endangered jewelry on the beach. Better to leave them at home or be very careful if you are walking or, worse, having fun with some games or sports.
Fare il bagno è piacevole, ma è facile perdere gli anelli
Fare il bagno è piacevole, ma è facile perdere gli anelli

2 Jewel lost in the water. Water is also a danger to jewels. And not only that of the sea. Even swimming pools, rivers and lakes can easily swallow your jewelry. The circumference of the fingers, for example, shrinks in contact with water below 37 degrees (about body temperature) and this can easily make you lose a ring. Swimming is also one of the most frequent causes of earring loss.
In hotel lasciate i gioielli in cassaforte
In hotel lasciate i gioielli in cassaforte

3 Theft at the hotel. Do not leave jewelry on the bedside table next to the bed, on the hotel room table or in your suitcase. There are thieves who specialize in this type of theft as well as tempt the cleaning staff. If it is not in your room, every hotel has a central safe to store valuables: use it.
Non imbarcate i gioielli assieme al trolley
Non imbarcate i gioielli assieme al trolley

4 Jewelery lost with the luggage. Unfortunately, the loss of a suitcase or trolley while traveling from one airport to another is not uncommon. Avoid storing valuables in your luggage.
Ops! lavandino anello
Ops!

5 The sinks. Hand washing is necessary, even more so for sanitation reasons. But sinks are a trap for rings, which can fall into the drain hole. Even more frequently, however, the jewels are forgotten on the ceramic edge of the sink.
In viaggio con l'auto
In viaggio con l’auto

6 Car thefts. If you are traveling by car you will be tempted to hide the jewelry under the seat, in a secret compartment (for you, but not for thieves), or in the trunk. A real godsend for thieves, who can perform a perfect search of your vehicle in just a few minutes. Do not leave jewelry unattended in the car.
Spiaggia a Biarritz
Spiaggia a Biarritz







Jewelry for self pleasure with María José

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A tweet from María José, Mexican gemologist and founder of the jewelry brand with her name, sums up her perspective: “I’m so happy to live between Los Angeles and New York,” she wrote. Originally from Guadalajara, the designer moved to the United States, where she attended the Gemological Institute of America in New York. She also studied jewelry design in Tribeca, the Big Apple neighborhood, where she launched her Maison María José in 2014. In short, she has perfectly integrated into American life and also in style: her jewels, in fact, are modern and in in line with international tastes, with a preference for the use of Colombian emeralds.

Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti su oro bianco 18 carati
Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti su oro bianco 18 carati

She is elegant, luxurious jewelry, but with a touch of informal. The objective explained by the Maison, in fact, is to instill a sense of fun in the collections, so that those who buy a jewel are able to wear the pieces with ease, as much as on official occasions.
Like many of her colleagues, María José Jewelry also supports fair trade practices and ethical manufacturing, core values ​​of the brand. All the stones chosen by the designer come from ethical sources and her jewels are handmade in Los Angeles.

Come molti altri suoi colleghi, anche María José Jewelry sostiene le pratiche del commercio equo e solidale e la produzione etica, valori fondamentali del marchio. Tutte le pietre scelte dalla designer provengono da fonti etiche e i suoi gioielli sono realizzati a mano a Los Angeles.

Anello con diamanti champagne
Anello con diamanti champagne
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldo
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldo
Anello in oro bianco con rubini e diamante nero
Anello in oro bianco con rubini e diamante nero
Collana in oro giallo 18 carati con smeraldi
Collana in oro giallo 18 carati con smeraldi
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiro
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiro

Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati con smeraldi
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati con smeraldi







Khiry’s black style

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For some time now the jewelry has also included a black trend line. Designers such as Jameel Mohammed, who founded his jewelry brand Khiry while studying political science at the University of Pennsylvania, have broadened the horizon. And the fruits of this cultural contribution have had a wider response. Jameel Mohammed, for example, a couple of years ago was catapulted onto the pages of Vogue and his career took off: today his jewels are for sale on online platforms such as Net-a-Porter. The designer has been defined as Afro-Futurist for the style he has adopted.

Orecchini a forma di maschera in oro 18 carati con diamanti
Orecchini a forma di maschera in oro 18 carati con diamanti

The Khartoum jewelry line, for example, is inspired by the curved horns of cattle raised by the Dinka tribe of Sudan. Khiry is based in Brooklyn, New York, and through jewelry faces the spirit of the black community, with collections inspired by African roots. He also launched a digital platform called Negritude and is inspired by the literary movement of the thirties and forties, and celebrates the African diaspora. In any case, the jewels follow the path of traditional luxury, with pieces in 18-karat gold, diamonds and precious stones.
Anello Khartoum in oro 18 carati con diamanti
Anello Khartoum in oro 18 carati con diamanti

Orecchini Khartoum in oro 18 carati con diamanti
Orecchini Khartoum in oro 18 carati con diamanti
Collana con pendente a forma di maschera in oro 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldi
Collana con pendente a forma di maschera in oro 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldi
Collana Khartoum in oro 18 carati con diamanti
Collana Khartoum in oro 18 carati con diamanti

Bracciale Horus in oro 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldi
Bracciale Horus in oro 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldi







Double life for Talita




The name Talita means little girl in the ancient Aramaic language. Today it also indicates the brand founded in 2019 and based in London by two (almost) young girls: Talya Shelley and Carolina Aldrovandi. Two dynamic and creative women, with good roots in the society that matters (Carolina, for example, was engaged in the past to Pirelli’s manager Giovanni Tronchetti Provera), but also solid professional skills. Carolina Aldrovandi attended a Fashion Design course at the Politecnico di Milano, then graduated in management at the Bocconi University in Milan and worked in the marketing of fashion companies. Talya Shelley, who is creative director and CEO, studied at the Parsons School of Design in New York, speaks four languages ​​(including Turkish) and founded the consulting firm Diamond Connoisseur.

Orecchini in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia
Orecchini in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia

After different experiences, they joined forces to launch Talita, which aims to offer jewelry with shapes inspired by the seventies and Art Deco. Lively, strong jewels, capable of pleasing those who like it: large dimensions, acute angles, glamor. They are new, high-end, yet affordable jewelry. The reception was positive and already a good number of celebrities, such as Rita Ora, Elizabeth Hurley, Ana Girardot, Caroline Vreeland, Bianca Brandolini d’Adda.
Anello in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia verdi e bianchi
Anello in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia verdi e bianchi

Anello in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia
Anello in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia
Orecchini a bottone in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia
Orecchini a bottone in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia
Bracciale in argento placcato oro rosa
Bracciale in argento placcato oro rosa
Earcuff in argento placcato oro rosa  e cubic zirconia
Earcuff in argento placcato oro rosa e cubic zirconia

Pendente in argento placcato oro rosa  e cubic zirconia
Pendente in argento placcato oro rosa e cubic zirconia







All about the mysterious Moldavite





Moldavite is not a disease, but a stone, even if there are some who suffer from Moldavite. The disease, in truth, only damages the psyche, because thinking that a simple mineral has the power to modify the state of health or protect against evil spirits (or things of this kind) can only be described as simple ignorance or a disorder psychic. But beyond these bizarre aspects, Moldavite has its admirers in jewelry.

Anello indossato con moldavite
Anello indossato con moldavite

The mineral. Moldavite is a green vitreous silica rock, which can have different shades: forest, olive or green-blue. The aspect that makes many people fantasize is that this stone has a different origin than usual: it was formed, in fact, from the impact of a meteorite probably in southern Germany about 15 million years ago. But it must be added that it is not the only mineral substance present on Earth to have an origin of this type. In any case, from a geological point of view it is simply a type of tektite. Its discovery dates back to 1786, when it was presented during a lecture at the University of Prague. The term Moldavite arrived only in the mid-nineteenth century, it derives from the Vltava river, in Bohemia (Czech Republic), from where the first described pieces came from.
Anello in oro bianco con moldavite
Anello in oro bianco con moldavite

Where is it. Moldavite is found in an area that includes southern Bohemia, western Moravia, the Cheb basin (north-western Bohemia), Lusatia (Germany) and the Waldviertel (Austria).
Collana di moldavite
Collana di moldavite

The mineral. Moldavite is a beryllium-10, similar to the composition of the Australian (Australian) and Ivory Coast (Ivorite) tektites. In short, it has nothing so mysterious. The properties of the mineral are similar to those of other types of glass and the reported Mohs hardness ranges from 5.5 to 7 (on the scale a diamond is 10, the maximum). Moldavite can be transparent or translucent with a moss green color, with swirls and bubbles inside or on the surface. Unfortunately, in China they seem to have created imitations of Moldavite, in reality simple glass. If the stone has a smooth surface with no threads (called lechatelierite) inside it, it is probably fake. The real mineral, in fact, has bubbles and various inclusions that resemble small worms inside, which may indicate its natural origin. If this mineral intrigues you, you can visit a museum dedicated to Moldavite, the Muzeum Vltavínů, in Český Krumlov, Czech Republic.
Pendente di moldavite
Pendente di moldavite

Moldavite in jewelry. Moldavite is not a very common mineral in jewelry, but rings or necklaces made with this material, in faceted or natural form, have an appearance that appeals to many. There are, however, three different qualities of Moldavite: high, medium and normal. For jewelry, only high quality moldavite is generally used.

Anello in oro giallo con moldavite
Anello in oro giallo con moldavite







The novel by Vittoria d’Aste-Surcouf

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The life and jewels of Vittoria d’Aste-Surcouf, European designer working in San Francisco ♦ ︎

It is said that every life is a novel, but there are lives that are more compelling than others. Like that of Vittoria d’Aste-Surcouf, designer who works a stone’s throw from San Francisco. It is worth telling it, as she did on her jewelery boutique site.

Pendente in oro con diamanti blu e incolori, inciso a mano
Pendente in oro con diamanti blu e incolori, inciso a mano

Vittoria d’Aste-Surcouf was born of a Greek-American mother and an Italian-French father. She spent the first years of life in the Middle East, between souks and deserts. A part of her youth, instead, passed it in France, among the ancient family possessions, in an ancient building in the Loire Valley full of ancient memories, clothes and jewels included. Finally, as a teenager she moved to the USA. All this mix of experiences has translated into the desire to start a small Maison of jewelry, Vittoria d’Aste-Surcouf Bijoux.

The family tradition inherited from the designer is also reflected on the style of her jewels: mostly rings with diamonds or colored stones.

Anello su misura con cluster di perle
Anello su misura con cluster di perle

But the style of the jewels is also influenced by her passion for ancient art: after graduating from the University of San Francisco, Victoria moved to New York to follow Master in History of Modern Art from Christie’s and attending museums and, finally, jewelery courses at the Fashion Institute of Design and Technology in the heart of Manhattan. In short, many experiences.
Anello con citrino e diamanti
Anello con citrino e diamanti

Pendente con lapislazzulo intagliato a mano
Pendente con lapislazzulo intagliato a mano
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti
Anello in oro rosa con smeraldo
Anello in oro rosa con smeraldo

Vittoria d'Aste Surcouf
Vittoria d’Aste Surcouf







The rites of African Brazil in Elza Pimenta’s jewels


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Ilê Axé Opó Afonjá, also known as Centro Santa Cruz Axé of Opó Afonjá or Casa de Xangô, is a Candomblé terreiro in Salvador, Bahia, Brazil. And Candomblé, informs Wikipedia, is an African diasporic religion that developed in Brazil during the nineteenth century with a process of syncretism between the traditional religions of West Africa and the Catholic form of Christianity. Introduction to frame the Ilê Axé jewelry collection by Brazilian designer Elza Pimenta. The jewelry is made from certified recycled gold and Brazilian stones. The collection is also a tribute to Afro-Brazilian culture, its deities and belief systems.

https://gioiellis.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Orecchini-con-ciondoli-oro-.jpg
Orecchini in oro della collezione Ilê Axé

The jewels are made with natural Brazilian stones such as emeralds, tourmalines and sapphires, and recycled gold with Scs Global Services certification. “The idea of ​​the Ilê Axé SS 2021 collection was born together with one of my best friends, also Brazilian, the art director Lia Paiva, who lives in Italy”, says Elza Pimenta, born in Belém do Pará, the gateway to the Amazon rainforest. “We are two Brazilians living abroad. Lia in Italy and I in Florida, USA, but we are deeply tied to our roots. The concept of a welcoming place of refuge belongs a lot to both, it is exactly the meaning of our friendship ”.

Collane Guia con ciondoli con pietre brasiliane
Collane Guia con ciondoli con pietre brasiliane

Ilê Axé SS 2021 jewels are minimalist, celebrate organic shapes and take inspiration from talismans and amulets, typical of African Yoruba culture. The collection includes rings with colored stones and precious handcrafted details in yellow, white and pink gold, versatile beaded necklaces reminiscent of the deities (the guides) used for protection during the rituals of Afro-Brazilian religions and pendants of raw stones wrapped in golden threads, unique and recognizable. “We also wanted to revisit the brass handcuffs, used for Brazilian slaves, engraved with strong words like Amor and Saravá (Love and Hello) in Portuguese and English, while for the earrings, necklaces and bracelets we thought of delicate pendants gold,” explains the designer, who produces all the pieces in Miami and sells online via her website.

Anello con tormalina rosa, smeraldo a goccia in oro 18 carati
Anello con tormalina rosa, smeraldo a goccia in oro 18 carati
Bracciali Manette
Bracciali Manette
Collana con perle di pirite e ciondoli in oro 18 carati
Collana con perle di pirite e ciondoli in oro 18 carati
Collane di Elza Pimenta
Collane di Elza Pimenta







Monica Rich Kosann, one click jewels

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The jewels of the American designer Monica Rich Kosann reflect all the modernity of New York ♦ ︎

There are women who become jewelry designers after long studies in goldsmithing or gemology schools. Others who leave professions like finance or marketing to dive into the world of rings, necklaces and bracelets. But, perhaps, there is only one woman who has established herself in the jewelry world after being a portrait photographer: the American Monica Rich Kosann. A passion, that for photography, which perhaps helped her to better understand what a woman really wants when she chooses a jewel.

To photography, the designer has joined the creation of her brand, Monica Rich Kosann.

Pendenti con i segni zodiacali in argento placcato oro e smalto
Pendenti con i segni zodiacali in argento placcato oro e smalto

The collection of 18 karat gold and sterling silver jewelery by Monica Rich Kosann starded from in the idea that every woman has a story to tell, she argues. Today its collections are offered in its boutiques in New York and Los Angeles, its lifestyle store in Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and over 100 high-end jewelry stores and specialties. The designer is also part of the Cfda (Council of Fashion Designers of America).
Pendenti in argento placcato oro e smalto
Pendenti in argento placcato oro e smalto

Her jewelry have a very modern, very New York style, very light. It is fine jewelry to wear without problems every day and, in fact, it is offered at very different prices, since it also includes silver jewelry. The latest collection is called Slim Locket and includes a series of pendants that can be opened and in which to insert a photograph. A very modern line for a jewel that recalls the lockets of nineteenth century. Alessia Mongrando

 

Pendente con diamanti bianchi, rubino, zaffiro arancione, zaffiro giallo, tsavorite verde, zaffiro blu e granato viola
Pendente con diamanti bianchi, rubino, zaffiro arancione, zaffiro giallo, tsavorite verde, zaffiro blu e granato viola

Pendente in oro giallo 18 carati con diamanti
Pendente in oro giallo 18 carati con diamanti

Medaglioni apribili in oro rosa
Medaglioni apribili in oro rosa

Locket rettangolare in argento
Locket rettangolare in argento
Medaglioni rotondi in oro giallo
Medaglioni rotondi in oro giallo

Monica Rich Kosann. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Monica Rich Kosann. Copyright: gioiellis.com







Report: the future of diamond jewelry


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After the covid epidemic, what are the prospects for the jewelry market and, in particular, those with diamonds? This question is answered by a long and in-depth report by one of the largest consulting firms in the world, Bain & Company, based on input from the Antwerp World Diamond Center. Result: the pandemic has also affected diamond jewelry sales. But less than in other luxury sectors. And the conditions for a recovery are all there.

Diamanti in vendita ad Anversa
Diamanti in vendita ad Anversa

Diamonds. In summary, explains the Bain & C report, as regards the entire sector linked to the sale of jewelry and diamonds, revenues decreased from 15% to 33%. Operating margins fell, but with significant differences: from -1% to -22%. Despite these declines, however, the global retail diamond jewelry market ($ 64 billion) outperformed the personal luxury market, which contracted by 22%. On the other hand, the production of rough diamonds has dropped a lot, down by about 5% since 2019. But in 2020, production decreased by 20% compared to the previous year.
Anversa: acquisti di un buyer
Antwerp (Anversa): acquisti di un buyer

One of the consequences of the various lockdowns was the increase in rough diamond inventories, which grew to 65 million carats, before declining with fourth quarter sales to 52 million carats (+ 17% from stock level at the end of 2019). Still on the diamond market: rough and polished stones continued to come under pressure. The prices of rough and polished diamonds began to decline in 2018, and then decreased in 2019 by 7% and 4% respectively, due to excessive stock. In 2020, raw and polished prices fell by 11% and 3% respectively.
Interno della gioielleria Rocca
Interno della gioielleria Rocca

The sales. As is well known, lockdowns, travel restrictions and economic uncertainty have all contributed to reducing jewelry sales. Sales, globally, fell 15% in 2020, with most of the decline concentrated in the first and second quarters. In addition, the demand for diamond jewelry has become more localized due to travel restrictions. However, preliminary estimates show growing consumer confidence and an increase in retail activity.
Shopping in Place Vendôme, Parigi
Shopping in Place Vendôme, Parigi

Forecasts. And for the future? Consumers continue to see diamond jewelry as a desirable gift and a key element for marriage, the report explains. In a customer sentiment survey published by Bain, US consumers said jewelry and watches are among the top four gifts they would like to receive. Consumers in China and India ranked them in the top two. In the United States, China and India, 60% to 70% of respondents believe that diamonds are an essential part of an engagement. And after the pandemic ended, 75-80% of consumers said they wanted to spend the same amount or more on diamond jewelry than they would before the crisis. A fact that indicates a strong and continuous emotional connection with the history of the diamond.
Il mercato dei gioielli con diamanti, influenza del covid-19
Il mercato dei gioielli con diamanti, influenza del covid-19

Synthetic diamonds. What Happens With Lab Made Diamonds? Continued technological advancements, warns Bain & C, have contributed to double-digit production growth and lower retail prices for lab-grown diamonds in 2019 and 2020. The price difference between natural and lab-grown fancy color diamonds it is particularly surprising, up to ten times. Thus, major jewelry retailers are adding lab-grown diamonds to their product offerings, further positioning the category in the fashion jewelry segment and making it accessible to a wider range of price-sensitive consumers. In essence, the research explains, two different classes of buyers will be formed: those who look for jewelry with natural diamonds, which can maintain value over time, and those who buy jewelry with synthetic diamonds and less expensive for a simply aesthetic choice, linked to the fashion.
Other important factors are sustainability, transparency and social equity, concepts that have become priorities for consumers, investors and the value chain. They are now in the foreground for mining, trading and retail companies. In the United States, and particularly in China and India, younger consumers say that sustainability is part of their decision-making process and could influence the purchase of diamond jewelry.
Le dinamiche del mercato dei diamanti
Le dinamiche del mercato dei diamanti

La ricerca su Google di gioielli con diamanti
La ricerca su Google di gioielli con diamanti
Le previsioni post-covid, ottimistica e pessimistica a confronto
Le previsioni post-covid, ottimistica e pessimistica a confronto
La produzione annuale di diamanti, in milioni di carati
La produzione annuale di diamanti, in milioni di carati

La vendita di gioielli con diamanti
La vendita di gioielli con diamanti







The sculptures by Aida Bergsen


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Sculptures, lace and animals in the unique jewelry by Aida Bergsen ♦︎
Her name is Aida Bergsen. The name could conjure Norwegian fjords, but in fact the sea girders that sees the designer are those of the Bosforo, a stretch of sea where is reflected Istanbul. Aida Bergsen was born in Cyprus, and she is a sculptor and, at the same time, one of the most creative jewelery signatures. She lives and works in the great city of Turkey, but she studied at the University of Grenoble, France, and her father was Fikri Direkoglu, a sculptor based in Paris. She inherited her passion for art, transformed into creative ability to create amazing jewels.

Anello doppio in oro, argento ossidato, diamanti, smeraldi, granati verdi, rubini, zaffiri blu e quarzo fumé
Anello doppio in oro, argento ossidato, diamanti, smeraldi, granati verdi, rubini, zaffiri blu e quarzo fumé

Her recipe is made up of Turkish passion, along with the European taste for luxury, plus the traditional goldsmith techniques learned directly by the craftsmen of the Istanbul Grand Bazaar. This it’s one of the few Turkish jewelery brands to be well known internationally and at Las Vegas’s Couture has repeatedly figured out successes. Aida has also been chosen among the best designers from Gemfield, for whom she has designed some rings. One of her sources of inspiration is Topkapi, the former palace of the Sultans, where she finds inspiration from the art collections and furnishings of the past, as in the figures of birds. Or, in the line of jewelry with a lace that is an inheritance of the Ottoman stille. And her unique pieces are sought after by collectors: they are not jewelry to wear every day. “It takes some courage,” admits Aida. Also because the prices often exceed 15 to 20,000 dollars. A price that did not discouraged Johnny Depp, who bought one.

 

Anello Achillea, in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Achillea, in oro giallo e diamanti

Bracciale serpente in oro, argento annerito e diamanti
Bracciale serpente in oro, argento annerito e diamanti
Ape in oro, diamanti, zaffiri, smalto
Ape in oro, diamanti, zaffiri, smalto
Bracciale con fiore in oro giallo, argento annerito e diamanti
Bracciale con fiore in oro giallo, argento annerito e diamanti
Collana Anka in oro, diamanti, tormalina verde
Collana Anka in oro, diamanti, tormalina verde
Collana in oro con diamanti e corallo arancio
Collana in oro con diamanti e corallo arancio

Orecchini a bottone in oro, diamanti, granati verdi
Orecchini a bottone in oro, diamanti, granati verdi







Netflix relaunches Regency jewels




History returns, fashions change and then repeat themselves and, sometimes, it also happens to jewels. The latest return of jewelry styles concerns the Regency period (1811-1820). This is the name of the period of the United Kingdom at the end of the Georgian era, when King George III was found unfit to rule due to his (mental) illness and his son ruled as his procurator, as prince regent. On the death of George III in 1820, the prince regent became King George IV. The Regency period is known for its elegance and achievements in fine arts and architecture. But, probably, the style that marked that era would not have returned to current events if it were not for Netflix’s Bridgerton series.

Phoebe Dynevor interpreta Daphne Bridgerton
Phoebe Dynevor interpreta Daphne Bridgerton

Based on the novels of Julia Quinn, set in the world of London high society, it has seen a surge in the sale of jewelry, accessories, furniture and furnishings similar to those used in the series. Online sales of necklaces and rings from the early 19th century, reports The Hollywood Reporter website, have increased on 1stDibs.
Spilla a forma di croce maltese con diamanti
Spilla a forma di croce maltese con diamanti

Anello in oro e zaffiri rosa
Anello in oro e zaffiri rosa
Anello inglese in oro con citrino
Anello inglese in oro con citrino
Orecchini pendenti d'oro in cannetile di epoca Regency
Orecchini pendenti d’oro in cannetile di epoca Regency
Orecchini con turchesi realizzato con la tecnica del cannetille: è simile al lavoro in filigrana. Tipicamente è dotato di fili d'oro fini o fogli finemente martellati. I gioielli con cannetille erano molto popolari nei primi anni dell'Ottocento
Orecchini con turchesi realizzato con la tecnica del cannetille: è simile al lavoro in filigrana. Tipicamente è dotato di fili d’oro fini o fogli finemente martellati. I gioielli con cannetille erano molto popolari nei primi anni dell’Ottocento







The never ending story of Elizabeth Gage

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The jewels of Elizabeth Gage one of the most prolific designers, with a career of 50 years behind 

It is considered one of the most influential jewelery designer of the past five decades. But, despite his long career, it remains a point of reference for young people. She, Elizabeth Gage (she was born in 1937), is a designer, but also an artist who paints, ops, make her jewelry with gold and precious stones. The result is, however, similar to that of a small work of art that blends the themes of nature and architecture, but there are also references to the official art, with its styles and its eras. Rings, necklaces, earrings, brooches, bracelets, pendants: they are unique pieces that you can find in her boutiques of London, in Belgravia.

Anello della collezione Templari in oro 18 carati con al centro una tsavorite ovale
Anello della collezione Templari in oro 18 carati con al centro una tsavorite ovale

After studying design at the Chelsea School of Art and the Sir John Cass College, in 1968, Elizabeth received a commission from Cartier in New York City to create a special collection. Four years later he won the coveted De Beers Diamond International Award. In 1989, he received the Queen’s Award for Export Achievement. A major retrospective of the designer, titled The charming Elizabeth Gage jewelry work ,was organized at the New Britain Museum of American Art in New York in 2015. And at auction Bonhams, among the jewels belonged to Hollywood legend Lauren Bacall, one of the most valuable pieces was signed by Elizabeth Gage: an enamel, pearls and brooch Camel diamonds, sold for $ 23,750. The American actress had bought his first piece of jewelry by Elizabeth Gage in 1985 and continued for a total of 23 pieces. In short, two myths that they met. Lavinia Andorno

Spilla KIss in oro, perle e al centro una moneta in argento di Eubea (Grecia) del secondo secolo a.e.v.
Spilla KIss in oro, perle e al centro una moneta in argento di Eubea (Grecia) del secondo secolo a.e.v.
Orecchini pappagallo Darby e Joan con granato mandarino, tormalina nera, cristallo di rocca, smalto
Orecchini pappagallo Darby e Joan con granato mandarino, tormalina nera, cristallo di rocca, smalto
Orecchini Blossom in smalto, oro e perle coltivate
Orecchini Blossom in smalto, oro e perle coltivate
Bracciale in oro e lapislazzuli
Bracciale in oro e lapislazzuli
Anello in oro giallo con granato mandarino e smalto nero
Anello in oro giallo con granato mandarino e smalto nero
Anello in oro con Acquamarina
Anello in oro con Acquamarina







Kelly Xie, from China with love

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The exuberant imagination of Chinese designer Kelly Xie and her high jewelry.

It is a small Maison, still little known in Europe, but it produces an exceptional high jewelry. This is Kelly Xie Fine Jewelry, a brand founded in 2012 in Shanghai, China. Even in Europe it should have the notoriety it deserves. The founder, Kelly Xie, learned jewelry making from a famous local master, with a focus on traditional Chinese painting. As is typical of the Chinese, she has worked hard to improve her skills. The training lasted ten years.

Anello China Rose Tianwai, in titanio, smeraldo Muzo, diamanti
Anello China Rose Tianwai, in titanio, smeraldo Muzo, diamanti

Her repertoire, she explains, ranges from traditional to free-style and “exudes uninhibited imagination.” She uses many colored stones and her jewels are, in fact, almost the transposition of certain traditional paintings, but reworked with greater vivacity. These three-dimensional paintings in gold and precious stones are also capable of telling stories, largely inspired by the world of nature. It goes without saying that the imagination in drawing would not hold up if it were not supported by an extraordinary ability to translate ideas into luxurious jewels. It is no coincidence that long ago some jewels selected by the same designer were successfully sold at the Hong Kong Poly Jewelry auction at a high price. While Kelly Xie is still (briefly) unknown to us, in China she is already popular with show business stars and celebrities. One more reason to get to know her work.
Spilla Lotus Wind in titanio con opale, pietra luna, tsavorite, zaffiro
Spilla Lotus Wind in titanio con opale, pietra luna, tsavorite, zaffiro

Orecchini Rainforest in oro bianco, diamanti, tsavoriti, smeraldi Muzo
Orecchini Rainforest in oro bianco, diamanti, tsavoriti, smeraldi Muzo
Orecchini in oro e diamanti
Orecchini in oro e diamanti
Spilla con cammeo Figlia del Mare su agata intagliata, oro 18 carati, diamanti, perle
Spilla con cammeo Figlia del Mare su agata intagliata, oro 18 carati, diamanti, perle

Anello farfalla in oro 18 carati, tsavorite, diamanti
Anello farfalla in oro 18 carati, tsavorite, diamanti







Digital jewels with the Brafa 2021




As in 2020, unfortunately, the fairs continue to be postponed due to the covid. The Brafa in Bruxelles is no exception. just like many other events, it has opted for a digital edition. For 2021, therefore, the great fair dedicated to arts, antiques and special jewels, period or contemporary, takes place from Wednesday 27 to Sunday 31 January. Exhibitors registered for Brafa 2021 hope that their galleries in digital format will be able to give an idea of ​​their offer: it is not easy, however, since the objects lose some of their charm when viewed only on a screen. But it is the only possible alternative.

Anello Mosaico di Nardi, in oro giallo e rosso 18 carati, con diamanti fancy gialli e bianchi
Anello Mosaico di Nardi, in oro giallo e rosso 18 carati, con diamanti fancy gialli e bianchi

In total in 2021 there are 126 art dealers from 13 countries and 37 cities. The invitation is to go to the various galleries or visit the web page of each exhibitor where you can find photos and descriptions of the objects presented. As mentioned, there is no shortage of jewels, such as those of the Nardi jewelry in Venice. Bernard Bouisset, jeweler from Béziers (France) presents a ring with a large fancy yellow diamond. There are also other jewels such as those signed by prestigious Maison such as Van Cleef & Arpels, to historical designers such as René Boivin. Federico Graglia
Un classico Moretto della gioielleria Nardi realizzato con diamanti taglio navette
Un classico Moretto della gioielleria Nardi realizzato con diamanti taglio navette

Spilla Mongolfiera di Nardi, in oro 18 carati, con opale di fuoco di oltre 60 carati
Spilla Mongolfiera di Nardi, in oro 18 carati, con opale di fuoco di oltre 60 carati

Anello con diamanti fancy yellow di 10,21 carati e diamanti bianchi triangolari
Anello con diamanti fancy yellow di 10,21 carati e diamanti bianchi triangolari

Orecchini di Van Cleef & Arpels in oro giallo ed ebano
Orecchini di Van Cleef & Arpels in oro giallo ed ebano
Orecchini e anello di Van Cleef & Arpels con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini e anello di Van Cleef & Arpels con diamanti e rubini
Collana Torque Eclat in oro giallo e quarzo rutilo
Collana Torque Eclat in oro giallo e quarzo rutilo
Collana in oro giallo Sablier René Boivin, 1960 circa
Collana in oro giallo Sablier René Boivin, 1960 circa

Collana e orecchini in oro giallo con hessoniti, circa 1820
Collana e orecchini in oro giallo con hessoniti, circa 1820







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