India

Kamyen, luxury reserved for the few

In about ten years, Kamyen has earned a place among the high-end jewelery houses. It was founded by Pooja Gandhi, the latest generation of an Indian family that has been operating for almost a century in the sector of precious stones and the production of diamonds. It only takes a few steps to go from precious stones to jewels, but the leap may not necessarily be successful. In Kamyen’s case, however, it was a success. And, even if the Maison was born in Mumbai, the style of the jewels is very far from the indian traditional one. This is thanks to the exclusive collaboration with the main Pakistani designer, Faraz Manan, who has given the jewelry and high-end jewelry collections a modern character.

Anello Gemini in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti brown e bianco da 2,44 carati, smalto nero
Anello Gemini in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti brown e bianco da 2,44 carati, smalto nero

Furthermore, Pooja’s family has been able to manage the production of jewelry according to the best commercial principles. The jewelry factory and workshop in Mumbai employs around 120 people and is under the direct control of the Gandhi family. The diamonds are all of high quality and are not from conflict zones, with a certificate accompanying each gem. And more, Kamyen’s strategy does not (for now) provide for the opening of boutiques. The collections can be viewed by appointment only, based in Dubai, or can be purchased online on some e-commerce platforms, such as Moda Operandi.
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, rubino, smalto e smeraldo
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, rubino, smalto e smeraldo

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, rubino e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, rubino, smalto e diamanti
Orecchini chandelier in oro bianco 18 carati e smalto
Orecchini chandelier in oro bianco 18 carati e smalto
Orecchini Ali d'angelo in oro bianco, diamanti e smalto nero
Orecchini Ali d’angelo in oro bianco, diamanti e smalto nero
Girocollo The Rising Sun in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smalto rosso
Girocollo The Rising Sun in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smalto rosso
Orecchini Galaxy in oro bianco, diamanti e smalto
Orecchini Galaxy in oro bianco, diamanti e smalto

India in Hong Kong by Sunita Nahata

Jaipur, capital of the Indian state of Rajasthan, is one of the world centers of jewelry. No wonder Sunita Nahata grew up in what is also called the Pink City, and where so many famous jewelers work. However, she is one of those Indian designers (she is not the only one) who has chosen Hong Kong as a base. Even though she has moved to China, however, she hasn’t forgotten her Indian roots, with a touch of Chinese eclecticism blended with Western taste. The result is original. The roots of Jaipur, one of the most important gemstone sourcing and production centers in the world, remain strong. Also because Sunita Nahata looks back on a family made up of grandfather, father, uncles and brothers all involved in the trade of precious stones.

Anello con ametista e turchese
Ring with amethyst and turquoise

Sunita Nahata founded her own jewelry brand in 2017. She previously worked extensively in a stone trading company Keen Jade, specializing in the most valued gem in Asia. But behind her she also has a Masters in Art and Literature obtained in Jaipur. Her jewels range from cocktail rings with colored gems, to chandelier pendants inspired by the architecture of ancient Indian palaces, up to the most classic jewellery, with diamonds and precious stones combined in the usual forms of high jewellery.

Collana con pendente in diamanti, onice, smeraldo
Necklace with pendant in diamonds, onyx, emerald
Collana con pendente chandelier con pietra luna, diamanti e gemme
Necklace with chandelier pendant with moonstone, diamonds and gems
Orecchini con acquamarina di oltre 44 carati, tormalina paraiba, alessandrite
Earrings with aquamarine over 44 carats, paraiba tourmaline, alexandrite
Anello in oro 14 carati con peridoto e tsavorite
14 karat gold ring with peridot and tsavorite
Anello in oro bianco con smeraldo e diamanti
White gold ring with emerald and diamonds

India in Sophie Theakston’s jewels

The charm of India, the love for art, for decorations, for rich furnishings, but also for more or less imaginative myths: Sophie Theakston is a British designer who loves symbolism and ancient Indian folklore. In fact, her jewels are made in Rajasthan before being sold in London. The workmanship of the jewels is influenced by the Indian tradition, which often occurs. As for the semi-precious stones carved with the figures of the pantheon of the Hindu religion, such as the deity Ganesh.

Collana con stella e luna in oro e diamanti polki
Star and moon necklace in gold and polki diamonds

But not only. Because the designer also presents jewels, such as the 18-karat gold rigid cuff bracelet with symbols that are a reference to the late 19th-early 20th century Austrian painter Gustav Klimt. Sophie Theakston’s jewels, underlines the Maison, are made with ethically sourced materials, are completely sustainable, respectful of the environment and of the people who work to make them. In any case, the designer knows her job well: she represents the second generation of a family of jewelers. She is married to television presenter Jamie Theakston (maiden name is Sophie Siegle) and she gets up at 5.15 every morning.

Collana in oro con Buddha a quattro facce
Gold Necklace with Four Faced Buddha
Anello in oro com una hessonite cabochon
Gold ring with a cabochon hessonite
Bracciale Expectation in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Expectation bracelet in 18K gold and diamonds
Collana con lapislazzuli intagliato con la figura di Ganesh
Necklace with lapis lazuli carved with the figure of Ganesh
Bracciale in oro con opali
Gold bracelet with opals
Sophie Theakston
Sophie Theakston

New Postcards from India by Lydia Courteille

Return to India with Lydia Courteille. The Parisian artist-designer, a great and tireless traveler, adds new pieces to her Indian Song collection, a diary made up of images transformed into jewels, a reminder of her tour in the great Asian country of the French creator. The collection, presented in 2022, is thus enriched with new sculpture-pieces, in the imaginative and eclectic style that distinguishes Lydia Courteille. The additions are precious and particularly elaborate. Rings and bracelets are not only inspired by Indian monuments or icons, but are transfigured with an inimitable goldsmith’s virtuosity.

the Secret Ring, con un Teschio Sadu (figura di asceta della religione induista), realizzato con lapislazzuli scolpiti e adornato con tutti i tipi di pietre preziose colorate: rubino, zaffiro, zaffiri colorati, smeraldo
the Secret Ring, con un Teschio Sadu (figura di asceta della religione induista), realizzato con lapislazzuli scolpiti e adornato con tutti i tipi di pietre preziose colorate: rubino, zaffiro, zaffiri colorati, smeraldo

Two examples: the Secret Ring, with a Sadu Skull (ascetic figure of the Hindu religion), made with carved lapis lazuli and adorned with all kinds of colored precious stones: ruby, sapphire, fancy sapphire, emerald. Or the surprising Taj Mahal ring, inspired by the Mughal-era architectural jewel found in Agra, made with a 27.24-carat tourmaline, tsavorite, moonstone, ruby, diamond, pink sapphire, gold. Not to mention the ring in the shape of a chest with a secret, made with a carved emerald, sapphires and diamonds, which can be opened.

Orecchini a forma di cobra con rubini
Orecchini a forma di cobra con rubini
Anello scrigno in oro, smeraldo intagliato, gemme
Anello scrigno in oro, smeraldo intagliato, gemme
Anello con ametiste, zaffiri viola, orange, diamanti, pietra luna intagliata
Anello con ametiste, zaffiri viola, orange, diamanti, pietra luna intagliata
Bracciale con diamanti e zaffiri di diversi colori
Bracciale con diamanti e zaffiri di diversi colori
Bracciale tigre, con smeraldi intagliati, oro, diamanti brown, zaffiri, tsavoriti
Bracciale tigre, con smeraldi intagliati, oro, diamanti brown, zaffiri, tsavoriti

Viren Bhagat: the genius of Mumbai




The extraordinary jewels of the Indian master Vivren Bhagat.
If you like the jewelry you see on this page you don’t look for the website of Viren Bhagat. There is not. And if ever there is a luxury most luxurious of others in the age of ever-network connection is just to not have a website. It can mean two things: you’re nobody and you do not feel the need, or you are so famous as you can snub the usual web brochure. Viren Bhagat, as you may have guessed, is part of this second species of human beings, those who do not need a business card to represent them. It is considered by some the Cartier India but from others has approached to Jar. Maybe it’s a bit ‘of both: he make a few pieces, fifty, a year, but with a lot of genius.

Spilla con diamanti e smeraldi venduta da Christie's
Spilla con diamanti e smeraldi venduta da Christie’s

His headquarters is in the affluent district of Mumbai. Heir to four generations of a jewelry business, he open in 1991 his store along with his two brothers. He has an ability to interpret the jewelry that sends in the attic of the Maharajah the myths of the past, poetry and Mughal tradition. It is not that India is not present: is felt in all its creations. But it’s not a jewelry store that proposes the old days, if anything is a fusion between Indian style and art deco. “I’m not really inspired by art deco, I grew up with her,” said the jeweler. But perhaps it is the power of tradition that makes him bend metal lightly, with stones that seem to live its own life. Transparencies and thin conjunctions between different parts of a jewel are the constant stylistic. Sure, it takes time and perseverance: to create the bracelets may take six months, including research of the stones, cutting, embedding.

Collana a cinque fili di perle di Viren Bhagat, venduta da Christie's per 1,6 milioni di dollari
Collana a cinque fili di perle di Viren Bhagat, venduta da Christie’s per 1,6 milioni di dollari
Spilla di diamanti
Spilla di diamanti
Anello con zaffiro taglio pan di zucchero e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro taglio pan di zucchero e diamanti
Orecchini con opali e smeraldi
Orecchini con opali e smeraldi
Anello in platino satinato e diamante
Anello in platino satinato e diamante
Anello in oro 18 carati con diamante giallo di 3,82 carati taglio europeo antico e diamanti bianchi
Anello in oro 18 carati con diamante giallo di 3,82 carati taglio europeo antico e diamanti bianchi
Collana con smeraldi e diamanti
Collana con smeraldi e diamanti
Collana con rubini cabochon e perle naturali
Collana con rubini cabochon e perle naturali
Bracciali con perle
Bracciali con perle
Vivren Bhagat
Viren Bhagat
Spilla con smeraldi e perle
Spilla con smeraldi e perle
Orecchini con rubini e diamanti
Orecchini con rubini e diamanti
Orecchini con perle naturali montate a forma di conchiglia
Orecchini con perle naturali

Ricca collana con smeraldi e diamanti di Viren Bhagat
Collana con smeraldi e diamanti







The watch with the most diamonds is Guinness World Record

Three years ago he had launched the ring with the most diamonds in the world. Today the Indian Renani Jewels replicates the watch that has the largest number of diamonds set. The timepiece has been certified by the Guinness World Record, set with 17,524 hand-cut natural diamonds. The watch also has a name: Srinika, inspired by ancient Indian mythology. Srinika means flower, which is in the heart of god Vishnu, it also means Goddess Lakshmi, the Supreme Goddess of good fortune.

Srinika, l'orologio gioiello con 17.524 diamanti naturali
Srinika, l’orologio gioiello con 17.524 diamanti naturali

Every single diamond used is natural, EF color and VVS-VS clarity. It is also enhanced with a solitaire single diamond weighing 0.72 carats, D color and VVS clarity. Furthermore, the watch and the maxi bracelet contain 113 natural blue sapphires. The watch weighs 373.030 grams and contains 54.70 carats of diamonds. The price is on request. The Guinness ring (Read also The record ring with 12,638 diamonds) was instead made with 12,638 diamonds.
L’anello da Guinness con 12.638 diamanti
L’anello da Guinness con 12.638 diamanti

Il bracciale-orologio contiene anche 113 zaffiri blu naturali
Il bracciale-orologio contiene anche 113 zaffiri blu naturali

All shades of P Hirani




The best-known Indian company specializing in diamonds, as well as high-end jewels, is P Hirani. Established in 1981 in Mumbai, P Hirani is a family-run business now owned by Jigar Hirani, while Darshit Hirani is the director. Specifying that the Indian company deals with trading diamonds, however, is not enough. It must be added that they are mostly special diamonds, the colored ones, the most sought after. The so-called fancy diamonds are the house specialty. Precisely this ability to procure and resell loose diamonds or mounted on prestigious jewels has translated into P Hirani’s key to success.

Anello con diamante giallo di oltre 6 carati e diamanti bianchi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello con diamante giallo di oltre 6 carati e diamanti bianchi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The company is now present in India, but also in Hong Kong and Dubai, also thanks to the wide range of gems available, with every color gradation and size of colored diamonds. And it’s always about gems over 1 carat, the most precious. The seriousness of the company also allows it to guarantee the authenticity of the natural color of each stone.
Alta gioielleria P Hirani con diamanti di diverse sfumature
Alta gioielleria P Hirani con diamanti di diverse sfumature

Anello con diamanti giallo, rosa e bianchi
Anello con diamanti giallo, rosa e bianchi
Anello con diamanti rosa e bianchi taglio a cuore
Anello con diamanti rosa e bianchi taglio a cuore
Anello con raro diamante blu, diamanti rosa e bianchi
Anello con raro diamante blu, diamanti rosa e bianchi
Orecchini con diamanti rosa, gialli e bianchi
Orecchini con diamanti rosa, gialli e bianchi







The art of jewels by Munnu The Gem Palace




Bracelets, necklaces and earrings with sumptuous gems in the traditional heart of India: the style of the Mughal empire in the collections of Munnu The Gem Palace. ︎

India is a country full of flowers. Necklaces, decorations, braids of flowers are found everywhere, not only in temples, but also for weddings or special occasions. Thus Siddharth Kasliwal, creative director of Munnu The Gem Palace, an ancient Indian brand from Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, uses gems as flowers, with jewels that become artistic bouquets. This is not traditional Indian jewellery. Indeed, Siddharth Kasliwal spends most of his time in New York and has absorbed much of the spirit of Western aesthetics.

Orecchini chandelier con diamanti, perle, zaffiri blu
Orecchini chandelier con diamanti, perle, zaffiri blu

Jewels with colored stones have a simpler design than those linked to the Indian tradition, closer to the style of jewels made in Europe or the USA. Necklaces composed of simple aligned tourmalines, an emerald that has a diamond set inside it, no-frills earrings with a rounded shape: the jewels of Munnu The Gem Palace are also popular in the West. On the other hand, Munnu The Gem Palace is heir to one of the oldest traditions. Suffice it to say that the Kasliwal family has been creating jewelry for nine generations.
Bracciale in oro con diamanti rose cut
Bracciale in oro con diamanti rose cut

The Gem Palace boasts jewels that resist passing fashions: some pieces dating back to the family’s beginnings in Agra are still worn. In the stratified society of the Mughal empire, gems served both as an investment, for accumulating wealth, and as a display of power. For three centuries the Mughal emperors used the jewels created by the Kasliwal family of Agra: opulent and extravagant pieces, true status symbols. In Munnu’s words, “at that time people wore more jewelry than clothes.”
Anello con serpente in oro su un grande rubino opaco
Anello con serpente in oro su un grande rubino opaco

The jewelers boasted mastery of traditional Indian techniques, such as Kundan setting and Meenakari enamelling. The story continued with a sudden sliding door, when in 1725 Maharaja Jai Singh II started the construction of the new city of Jaipur, which is still today the capital of the Indian state of Rajasthan. Jewelers could not be missing. The Kasliwals then moved within the palace walls as crown jewelers. Even today the house of the Kasliwal family is located in Jaipur.
Orecchini a bottone con tormalina rosa
Orecchini con tormalina rosa

In the 18th century Jaipur experienced a period of wealth and afforded the Kasliwal family the opportunity to centralize their operations in a new location outside the palace walls. Many of the artisans who were previously scattered around the city have thus come together under one roof: the Gem Palace.
Orecchini con zaffiri, ametista e rubellite
Orecchini con zaffiri, ametista e rubellite

The British conquest of India did not slow down the work of jewelers. In 1923 the iconic Gem Palace store was opened in Jaipur, which still welcomes those looking for the Maison’s fine jewels. The jewelery offer is particularly rich. The processing takes place in the adjacent laboratories. Munnu’s jewels The Gem Palace have been the focus of various exhibitions in the West, such as the one at Somerset House in London, with around 250 pieces of jewellery, or for the Met in New York, where Munnu and his son Siddharth have opened a studio and a showroom in a residence in the heart of the city. But the story isn’t over yet.
Bracciale in oro 22 carati con acquamarina
Bracciale in oro 22 carati con acquamarina

Anello in oro con tormalina verde e smalto
Anello in oro con tormalina verde e smalto
Orecchini in oro con tormalina rosa e verde
Orecchini in oro con tormalina rosa e verde

Collana in oro con 5  tormaline pendenti
Collana in oro con tormaline







Minawala, luxury between yin and yang




The fantastic jewelry between yin and yang by Minawala, the creation of Shehzad Zaveri ♦ ︎

India is the largest jewelery market. And it is not surprising that there are many jewelers able to conceive jewels of the highest quality. One of these is Minawala and is located in Mumbai, the richest city in the country, and also the capital of one of the most thriving industries: cinema. Just to Bollywood are dedicated a series of jewelery among the richest and most glamorous as they can enjoy the Indian Hollywood divas. Minawala is led by Shehzad Zaveri, who continues the dream of her mother, a woman single who pushed the jeweler to point not only on gold, the traditional material of Indian jewels, but also on diamonds.

Orecchini in oro con diamanti e smeraldi
Orecchini in oro con diamanti e smeraldi

Since the Eighties, after opening the first boutique in Mumbai, Shehzad Zaveri was get a long way. He convinced not only the actors of Bollywood, but also many Westerners. He traveled between London, the Emirates and Monte Carlo. He has learned to know the Western tastes, but also to satisfy the customers of his country. And, he says, he has learned a lot from an Italian jeweler, Bruno Sabbadini, founder of the Milanese jewelery. It was he, told Zaveri, to teach him the nuances of design, and the secrets of marketing and retail. Today, Minawala has four stores in Mumbai and Bengaluru. But, good Indian, he says that the key to success is not just in the quality of his jewels: “At Minawala we try to synchronize the yin with the yang,” he says. And maybe it is true.

Collezione Avighna dedicata a Ganesh, spilla con ametista, diamanti e rubellite
Collezione Avighna dedicata a Ganesh, spilla con ametista, diamanti e rubellite
Spilla in oro rosa con diamanti e rubellite
Spilla in oro rosa con diamanti e rubellite
Collier con diamanti bianchi e gialli
Collier con diamanti bianchi e gialli
Orecchini in oro con diamanti
Orecchini in oro con diamanti

Orecchini con lavanda intagliata e perle
Orecchini con lavanda intagliata e perle

Anello a forma di turbante in oro bianco, diamanti, turchesi
Anello a forma di turbante in oro bianco, diamanti, turchesi







Luxury flies with Diacolor




Rishabh Tongya traveled alone by plane for the first time at age 11. Destination: New York. Since then he has never stopped visiting airports around the world, starting from Delhi, the capital of India where Diacolor, the family business, is based. Rishabh Tongya is the creative director of the brand and is a frequent flyer, with 150-180 flights per year between Europe, the Middle East, the Far East and Africa. He made one exception when he met the girl who would become his wife, Divya: he postponed a trip to Bahrain for her. Rishabh is a citizen of the world: as a city he loves London, Sardinia for the beaches, the reserves between Tanzania and Kenya for nature and fauna, the Alps for the mountains. Without ceasing to love India, of course.

The Tanzan Enigma, collana di diamanti con una tanzanite di 148,58 carati
The Tanzan Enigma, collana di diamanti con una tanzanite di 148,58 carati
Starting with a small team of five members, Diacolor has grown over the years into an internationally renowned jewelry production house, and also produces on behalf of global jewelry brands.

Diacolor’s jewels reflect Rishabh Tongya’s relentless search for precious stones, often large gems, which are cut and set into jewels that fascinate American sheikhs and billionaires, wealthy Asian tycoons and Russian oligarchs. All jewels of super luxury and also super visible, with generous dimensions. Years ago, for example, Diacolor bought a 5655-carat raw emerald from Zambia, a Guinness record stone.

Lo smeraldo record di 5655 carati
Lo smeraldo record di 5655 carati
Spilla con diamanti e zaffiri
Spilla con diamanti e zaffiri
Bracciale con diamanti e smeraldi
Bracciale con diamanti e smeraldi
Anello con zaffiro taglio ovale e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro taglio ovale e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati con 18,68 carati di diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati con 18,68 carati di diamanti
Rishabh Tongya
Rishabh Tongya






Harakh high jewelry




Diamonds and not only in the collections of Harakh, a new high jewelery brand ♦ ︎

There is a new high jewelery brand in America. It’s called Harakh and, to tell the truth, it is new only for the United States, because in Bombay they have known it since 2017. The name is that of its founder, Harakh Mehta, who represents the fourth generation of a family of jewelers. But in India the word Harakh also has the meaning of joy: which is also that of those who can afford to buy a jewel of the Maison, which has prices ranging between 20,000 and 100,000 dollars. Among the latest creations of the Maison there is, for example, a set of 150-carat diamonds, specially created to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Bloomingdales luxury department in New York.

Orecchini a cerchio in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini a cerchio in oro bianco e diamanti

Diamonds are one of the strong points of Harakh’s jewels, also because the activity of a jeweler comes after that of a gemstone merchant, and also thanks to his studies at the Gemological Institute of America. Use only diamonds classified D, E or F and clarity VS / VVS and IF. Each piece is handmade by the 15 artisans who work with ancient jewelery techniques. But this does not prevent a quality control particularly attentive also to the use and pleasure of wearing rings, bracelets and earrings. As in the Cascade collection, which is made with a blaze of stones. The shapes of the jewels are modern, but in some cases they reflect the traditional Indian figures, such as the elephant or the peacock.

Collana con diamanti bianchi su oro bianco
Collana con diamanti bianchi su oro bianco
Collana con pendente in oro giallo e diamanti bianchi
Collana con pendente in oro giallo e diamanti bianchi
Anello Frangipani in oro bianco e rosa, diamanti
Anello Frangipani in oro bianco e rosa, diamanti
Orecchini Haveli in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Haveli in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Peacock in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Peacock in oro bianco e diamanti

Orecchini Haveli in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Haveli in oro bianco e diamanti

Colorless Diamond Bypass Ring in 18K White Gold
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati e diamanti







Ajoomal between ancient and modern




Rare stones, refined cuts, tradition and innovation: all this is Harshad Ajoomal, Mumbai’s jeweler ♦ ︎

The briolette cut, with its elongated teardrop shape, is back in fashion in jewelery. This was renewed by Harshad Ajoomal, a Mumbai jeweler who used this form born in the Sixties, which says inspired by the traditional Indian Goswala cut. When gemstones have a briolette cut and are exposed to strong light, each facet reflects the color to create a sparkling kaleidoscope effect. An effect that the Indian designer has applied in the Mozambique collection, dedicated to a country that holds in its mines a great variety of precious stones.

Anello con pietra luna intagliata, diamanti bianchi e brown,  rubellite al centro
Anello con pietra luna intagliata, diamanti bianchi e brown, rubellite al centro

Jealous of Indian tradition and culture, Harshad Ajoomal used this form for the capsule collection made with natural precious stones such as sapphires, tanzanites, peridots and orange amethysts. But also unusual stones, like Namibia pietersite. Harshad Ajoomal, in fact, has always emphasized avant-garde design, precious stones and craftsmanship. It is an Indian brand, but very attentive to the world of Western fashion, as is also evident in the Mozambique collection.

Anello con smeraldo di 8,58 carati dello Zambia e diamanti taglio baguette
Anello con smeraldo di 8,58 carati dello Zambia e diamanti taglio baguette
Medaglione in oro bianco, diamante a goccia, occhio di tigre
Medaglione in oro bianco, diamante a goccia, occhio di tigre
Orecchini Cirque du Noir con onice intagliato, diamanti e oro
Orecchini Cirque du Noir con onice intagliato, diamanti e oro
Orecchini in platino con diamanti
Orecchini in platino con diamanti
Orecchini con conchiglie fossili e diamanti
Orecchini con conchiglie fossili e diamanti
Orecchini in platino con smeraldi, diamanti, tanzanite
Orecchini in platino con smeraldi, diamanti, tanzanite
Orecchini in oro e diamanti
Orecchini in oro e diamanti







Santi, Indian high jewelry has distant roots




A jeweler who represents the tenth generation of a family devoted to gems and jewels. It is Krishna Choudhary, an Indian moved to London, who has a very long history behind him. The high jewelery of his brand, Santi, is now the subject of an exhibition-sale organized by the London auction house Phillips. The exhibition, from 19 to 23 September at Phillips’s Berkeley Square galleries, is organized with the assistance of Vivienne Becker, a jewelery historian who has become a sort of hallmark. The exhibition presents the creations of Saints, but also jewels and historical objects from the Mughal era. The roots of Krishna Choudhary, in fact, go back to Rajasthan.

Orecchini Chevron con due diamanti taglio vecchia miniera
Orecchini Chevron con due diamanti taglio vecchia miniera

Through this exhibition I hope to honor my legacy and share with visitors some of the magic that fuels my contemporary works. From historical gemstones of extraordinary beauty or Mughal motifs seen in Indian art, architecture and jewelry, all of these serve as inspiration for my contemporary jewelry, within which I try to marry the rarest gems and the most beautiful and exquisite crafts available today.
Krishna Choudhary

Krishna Choudhary nel suo studio a Londra
Krishna Choudhary nel suo studio a Londra

The Choudhary family was active as bankers and jewelers in 1727, at the founding of the new city of Jaipur by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amer in western India, who settled in the city of Jaipur in the 18th century. The maharaja invited the best craftsmen and craftsmen from all over India. Jaipur, where the Choudhary Haveli (the family palace) is located, is a center still famous today for jewelry and gem cutting. The exhibition and sale includes about forty jewels made in the last four years, some of which were created specifically for this occasion.
Orecchini Champagne Cartouche, caratterizzati da due diamanti brown taglio cuscino, che fluttuano su onde chevron in oro giallo
Orecchini Champagne Cartouche, caratterizzati da due diamanti brown taglio cuscino, che fluttuano su onde chevron in oro giallo

Orecchini Chevron con al centro un diamante taglio old mine
Orecchini Chevron con al centro un diamante taglio old mine
Orecchini Chevron con diamanti e smeraldi colombiani
Orecchini Chevron con diamanti e smeraldi colombiani
Anello Diamond Wave su oro rosa
Anello Diamond Wave su oro rosa
Orecchini Emerald Flower, con diamanti Golconda e smeraldi
Orecchini Emerald Flower, con diamanti Golconda e smeraldi cabochon del Panjshir
Anello ottagonale con spinello taglio old mine e diamanti baguette
Anello ottagonale con spinello taglio old mine e diamanti baguette

Royal Gems a Jaipur, haveli della famiglia Choudhary
Royal Gems a Jaipur, haveli della famiglia Choudhary






The colors of Ila




The easy jewels of Ila and Vikas Sodhani from Rajasthan to the United States ♦

The jewels of Ila and Vikas Sodhani originate from the sands of Rajasthan, the Indian state that also includes a desert on the border with Pakistan: they are sister and brother the Ila brand’s soul. Can you imagine those heavy yellow gold bracelets typical of Indian jewelery? Maybe finely decorated earrings with engravings? Nah. Vikas founded his company in the US, and has little to do with the ethnic taste of India. He spent eight years designing high-end diamond jewelry with his mother and father who emigrated to the United States.

Orecchini in oro 14 carati, diamanti e zaffiri bianchi
Orecchini in oro 14 carati, diamanti e zaffiri bianchi

Vikas Sodhani has an eye for shape and design, but also for technical aspects: he studied engineering at MIT in Boston, one of the most prestigious (and severe) universities in the world. But he combined his studies with a year spent in his homeland, India, where he studied the artisan techniques of jewelry. The result is a brand that has a hybrid soul, with simple shapes and many precious stones that are the legacy of their native land. They can also be purchased online: their jewels have been selected by international retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Moda Operandi, BHLDN, ​​Catbird and ABC Carpet and Home.

Anelli impilati con diamanti e zaffiri su oro bianco 14 carati
Anelli impilati con diamanti e zaffiri su oro bianco 14 carati
Anello Abia con diamante taglio Asscher e diamanti baguette
Anello Abia con diamante taglio Asscher e diamanti baguette
Orecchini con pavé di zaffiri
Orecchini con pavé di zaffiri
Orecchini Griffith con zaffiri e ametista
Orecchini Griffith con zaffiri e ametista
Anello Harper con smeraldi
Anello Harper con smeraldi
Ila e Vikas Sodhani
Ila e Vikas Sodhani
Orecchini con diamanti taglio mezza luna
Orecchini con diamanti taglio mezza luna







Coomi’s eclectic shapes




From Mumbai to the States. There are many Indian jewelers who have chosen to work in America. Among them is Coomi Bhasin, who in 2022 celebrates her special birthday: she began her career in jewelry exactly 20 years ago. She and her husband Hari, a builder, moved to the United States in 1977 and used their design expertise along with engineering to help create a successful family business. Coomi, in fact, has a degree in art history and design, is an architect, landscape architect and textile designer. The jewels are finished by hand and set by hand and, like many Indian jewelers, she loves gold in its almost pure state, at 20 karats (the maximum is 24 karats).

Orecchini in argento brunito e topazi
Orecchini in argento brunito e topazi

The idea of ​​her jewelry is to combine the decorative forms of Indian architecture with the skyscrapers of Manhattan. In reality, the result is original and does not identify with either of the two aesthetics. Alongside gold, Coomi’s jewels also use silver, which is often burnished to acquire a particular flavor.
Orecchini con madreperla intagliata, argento, spinello nero, diamanti
Orecchini con madreperla intagliata, argento, spinello nero, diamanti

Bracciale Opera in oro 18 carati, diamanti bianchi
Bracciale Opera in oro 18 carati, diamanti bianchi
Bracciale Thewa con dettagli antichi su oro 20 carati, diamanti, madreperla
Bracciale Thewa con dettagli antichi su oro 20 carati, diamanti, madreperla
Bracciale Tribal con diamanti e iolite
Bracciale Tribal con diamanti e iolite
Collana trinity in oro 18 carati, diamanti e rubini
Collana trinity in oro 18 carati, diamanti e rubini

Bracciale Trinity in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti per 40,52 carati
Bracciale Trinity in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti per 40,52 carati







The cultural bridge of Sethi Couture

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Sethi is a common surname in northern India and Pakistani. The word derives from Sreshta which means pure or superior in Sanskrit, the ancient Indian language. Following (perhaps) this principle, the two Californian sisters Pratima and Prerna, with their Sethi Couture, have tried to reunite the jewelry made in the USA with its roots in Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh. Rajasthan, in particular, is famous for its goldsmith tradition. The combination of Indian gold and minimal western style has turned into many stackable rings, earrings and bracelets.

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati e diamanti

As often happens, the two young Indo-Californians tried different paths before finding their way into jewelry. Pratima, after an MBA he started his career in a luxury brand. Prerna studied architecture and then worked for the clothing industry. But another detail must be added to the story: the Pratima and Prerna family trades in diamonds and precious stones. In short, the landing in jewelry is part of the roots of the house. In short, diamonds are not lacking in the collection of Sethi Couture. In addition, alongside motifs inspired by the nature of California, references to traditional Indian architecture also appear in the Maison’s jewels. In short, a bridge that crosses the ocean.
Anello impilabili in oro e diamanti bianchi e neri
Anello impilabili in oro e diamanti bianchi e neri

Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Orecchini a forma di foglia in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Orecchini a forma di foglia in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Anello impilabili in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello impilabili in oro giallo e diamanti
Orecchini a goccia in oro e diamanti
Orecchini a goccia in oro e diamanti

Bracciale Ombé in oro e diamanti bianchi e fancy
Bracciale Ombé in oro e diamanti bianchi e fancy







In Rajasthan with the rich jewels of Sawansukha

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The large, luxurious, traditional Indian jewelery gifts signed by Maison Sawansukha ♦

For nearly two centuries the name Sawansukha was associated with the diamond trade. You do not know, probably, but today is one of India’s leading jewelers. In particular of Rajasthan, in Bikaner city. The style is that of the great Indian jewelry, it was of the maharaja’s, now of course mediated by a more modern taste, although anchored to tradition. Gold, diamonds, pearls, platinum and precious stones to create jewelry that make you dream even those who are not fond of the East (but is there anyone who resists the allure of India?).

Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con 36 diamanti
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con 36 diamanti

For a pearl and diamond necklace, for example, the jeweler has a poetic explanation: it represents the dance of a peacock when it rains. The diamonds in the shape of peacock feathers, and hopeful look to the clouds, symbolized by the pearls. The diamonds from the ranks of pearls are like drops of water falling disperse. The other jewel, however, is inspired by the goddess Lakshmi, the center of the pendant: a jewel more traditional, very exotic.

La danza della pioggia del pavone: diamanti e perle, by Sawansukha
La danza della pioggia del pavone: diamanti e perle, by Sawansukha
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti polki, smalto
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti polki, smalto
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti polki, rubino
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti polki, rubino
Bracciali in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Bracciali in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Collana con diamanti e rubini
Collana con diamanti e rubini
Collana con diamanti taglio marquise e pera, sette smeraldi
Collana con diamanti taglio marquise e pera, sette smeraldi







The Indian Song by Lydia Courteille

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In 1300 there was Marco Polo. Today, there is Lydia Courteille. With one fundamental difference: the first was a merchant who had gone to the East with the aim of bringing spices and fabrics to Venice. The second, on the other hand, brought sensations, images, emotions of India to Paris, in this case through the memory of a 17th-century traveler, Jean-Baptiste Tavernier. Ingredients used by Lydia Courteille to create sculptures which, among other things, can also be considered jewels.

Anello dedicato al tempio  Madurai Gapuram, con smeraldo intagliato
Anello dedicato al tempio Madurai Gapuram, con smeraldo intagliato

The new stage of the French designer’s world tour was India. After touring Guatemala, China, Turkey and many other places, the new collection is dedicated to Gandhi’s homeland and is called Indian Song. Name that adds a touch of musicality to the symphony of colors that make up the collection. India is, in fact, a fascinating mystery for Westerners and, perhaps, also for those born there. Hindu mythology and religion reserve surprises that are not always immediately understandable, but that involve.
L'anello dedicato a Madurai Gapuram dedicato a Shiva aperto. Il serpente in zaffiro rosa simboleggia la semi divinità Naga
L’anello dedicato a Madurai Gapuram dedicato a Shiva aperto. Il serpente in zaffiro rosa simboleggia la semi divinità Naga

The jewels of the Indian Song collection cover some of the stages of Indian culture. Like the Khajuraho temple, built between AD 950 and 1050, which is located in Madhya Pradesh and is famous for the erotic sculptures that surround it. Because spirituality doesn’t have to be far from the joy of the body. The same sculptures, but made of sandalwood, surround a ring with a large red tourmaline, also inspired by the heart of the Indian temple. In an era permeated by a return of Puritanism, Lydia Courteille’s ring is a cry for freedom, cheers.
Anello ispirato al tempio Khajuraho. Le figure intagliate sono in legno di sandalo, che circondano una tormalina rossa
Anello ispirato al tempio Khajuraho. Le figure intagliate sono in legno di sandalo, che circondano una tormalina rossa

Another temple, Madurai Gapuram, this time in the state of Tamil Nadu, is dedicated to the god Shiva and the goddess Parvathi: it offered the inspiration for another ring that is reductive to define a jewel. It is, in effect, a small temple, with one side that opens and offers the view of an elaborate interior that features the face of the deity. The whole is made up of cabochon sapphires, rubies and spinels, as well as a carved emerald evoking the splendor of the Mogul era. It should be added that the references to the pantheon of Hinduism are also precise. For example, a red tourmaline snake represents the semi deity Naga, who rules the underworld.
La collana dedicata al Taj Mahal con uno smeraldi intagliati per  175 carati, cristallo di rocca, zaffiri
La collana dedicata al Taj Mahal con uno smeraldi intagliati per 175 carati, cristallo di rocca, zaffiri

Could the Taj Mahal be missing on the trip to India? Of course not. The monument erected by Shah Jehan, Mughal emperor, in memory of the deceased bride, in the Indian Song collection is transformed into a necklace with sapphires and emeralds. Another monument, the temple dedicated to Shiva Mahabalipuram, a Unesco World Heritage Site located near Chennai, is famous for its bas-relief sculptures that surround it. They represent the descent of the Ganges which is intertwined with the epic of the Mahabharata, which tells the story of the gods.
Anello Peacock realizzato con tanzanite, smeraldi, tormaline
Anello Peacock realizzato con tanzanite, smeraldi, tormaline

For example, Sarasvati, Brama’s consort traditionally depicted accompanied by a swan and a peacock. The two birds are used by Lydia Courteille to form an elaborate jewel. Furthermore, the peacock is the decorative protagonist of a palace in Jaipur, the Peacock Gate of the City Palace, and the subject of a gold necklace with 11 tanzanites, ten opals, 11 emeralds, 40 apatite pearls, 60 emerald pearls and tanzanite, 39 yellow sapphires, diamonds. An opulence that would be appreciated by a maharaja. A ring, on the other hand, is dedicated to the temple of Karni Mata, where thousands of mice are considered sacred and are fed by devotees.

Anello ispirato al serpente cobra, simbolo di saggezza e guarigione. Mix di pietre preziose colorate per 175 carati: tormalina verde, tanzanite, zaffiri, rubini, ametista
Anello ispirato al serpente cobra, simbolo di saggezza e guarigione. Mix di pietre preziose colorate per 175 carati: tormalina verde, tanzanite, zaffiri, rubini, ametista
Gioielli in sandalo intagliato, rubellite, zaffiri
Gioielli in sandalo intagliato, rubellite, zaffiri
Collana Peacock, composta da oro 18 carati, vetro, 11 tanzaniti, 10 opali, 11 smeraldi, 40 perle di apatite, 60 smeraldi e perle di tanzanite, 39 zaffiri gialli grani, 14 apatiti, 4 gialli tormalina, 238 grani di zaffiri, 585 zaffiri 30 diamanti bianchi, 330 tsavoriti, 92 zaffiri gialli
Collana Peacock, composta da oro 18 carati, vetro, 11 tanzaniti, 10 opali, 11 smeraldi, 40 perle di apatite, 60 smeraldi e perle di tanzanite, 39 zaffiri gialli grani, 14 apatiti, 4 gialli tormalina, 238 grani di zaffiri, 585 zaffiri 30 diamanti bianchi, 330 tsavoriti, 92 zaffiri gialli
Orecchini con smeraldi intagliati, zaffiri, diamanti
Orecchini con smeraldi intagliati, zaffiri, diamanti
Orecchini con smeraldi intagliati e rubellite
Orecchini con smeraldi intagliati e rubellite
Collana dedicata alla semi divinità Naga
Collana dedicata alla semi divinità Naga
Orecchini Humming Bird con smeraldi, tsavorite, granati, spinello rosso, turchese, oro rodiato nero
Orecchini Humming Bird con smeraldi, tsavorite, granati, spinello rosso, turchese, oro rodiato nero
Anello dedicato alla festa di Diwali e alla divinità Ganesha
Anello dedicato alla festa di Diwali e alla divinità Ganesha
Anello ispirato al tempio di Karni Mata
Anello ispirato al tempio di Karni Mata






Flora Bhattacharya, passage to India

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The scent of India seen through the eyes and creativity of Flora Bhattachary ♦

India and Britain are two souls that history has united: conflicts and love are the legacy of the great empire, that Flora Bhattachary translates into quality jewelry. London designer makes no secret of being fascinated by India of the past, the exotic that Europeans love. The geometric designs of Mughal era are well translated and distilled in decor for jewelry. She don’t forgets the gold and precious stones but, of course, her India is updated for our times, with a less baroque than the goldsmith Indian tradition. In short, wealth, opulence, but do not overdo.

Anello in oro 14 carati con diamante cognac
Anello in oro 14 carati con diamante cognac

The designer is an emerging figure in the London scene: he founded his brand only in 2014, after a Master at St Martins. Yet it is already considered one of the “hot signatures” of British design. It won a number of prestigious awards, including the Prix Unsigned Ecône 2015; One Year On New Designer Award in 2015 and was selected as a finalist in 2015 Collection of the Year Awards for his Baoli Collection.

Anello in oro con perla
Anello in oro con perla
Anello Yakasha con zaffiri blu su argento rodiato nero
Anello Yakasha con zaffiri blu su argento rodiato nero
Collana con ciondolo a spirale Kundalini. Oro giallo 14k carati riciclato
Collana con ciondolo a spirale Kundalini. Oro giallo 14k carati riciclato
Orecchini Aditi a bottone con diamanti e oro giallo riciclato 14 carati
Orecchini Aditi a bottone con diamanti e oro giallo riciclato 14 carati
Orecchini Aditi a bottone In oro giallo riciclato 14 carati e diamanti
Orecchini Aditi a bottone In oro giallo riciclato 14 carati e diamanti
Orecchini a cerchio In oro giallo riciclato 14 carati
Orecchini a cerchio In oro giallo riciclato 14 carati

Orecchini a vortice In oro giallo riciclato 14 carati e diamanti
Orecchini a vortice In oro giallo riciclato 14 carati e diamanti







Goshwara, drops of perfection

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A drop of perfection in the jewelry of Goshwara, a bit of India in New York ♦
In ancient Persia and India, the word Goshwara indicated the perfect shape of the drop. But also the essence of femininity, softness and elegance. Only the best craftsmen could create a stone with this form. The drop was one of the most claim geometric volumes for jewelery.

Orecchini in oro con corallo intagliato e diamanti
Orecchini in oro con corallo intagliato e diamanti

With a leap of a few centuries, the idea of ​​perfection revives today in New York, at the initiative of Sweta Jain, a young Indian designer. Sweta has created her jewelry brand in 2007 with the idea of ​​pointing to the highest goal, perfection. As is often the case with Indian designers, its collections are a bridge between the colors and the exuberance of Indian tradition, and the essential sobriety of Western style. Sweta Jain, on the other hand, the stones know them well: she has worked with diamonds and rubies since childhood, accompanying her father, gem merchant, to the mines in Africa. It’s a training that lets pick the best pieces and combine them with a very personal style.

Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, turchese e diamanti
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, turchese e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo con opale arancio e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo con opale arancio e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con opale e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con opale e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo, smeraldi taglio pera,  turchese e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo, smeraldi taglio pera, turchese e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo con prasiolite e peridoto
Anello in oro giallo con prasiolite e peridoto

Orecchini in oro giallo con prasiolite e peridoto
Orecchini in oro giallo con prasiolite e peridoto







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