The jewels of Hollywood stars designed by Rosalina Tran Lydster.
One of the big names of the world’s jewelry, and of america in particular, was born in Vietnam. Rosalina Tran Lydster is an American now and draws designer jewelry. And to say that he began his career in the investment banking world, at a major Wall Street studio. But, as a hobby, she was drawing rings for friends. We must point out, however, that even if the father was an architect, the family owned a jewelry store in Vietnam for Vietnamese high society. After leaving Saigon, in 1970, his father opened a jewelry store in San Francisco. In any case, the passion and the flattering opinion received for the first jewelry, convinced Rosalina to go forward and to turn a hobby into a profession. Rosalina in 2001 he founded his company. After only five years he has been named among the official jewelers for the Academy Awards. In 2008 she was chosen as co-designer for the Miss Universe crown. She also decided to stay in San Francisco, where is her store. His work is highly valued by Hollywood stars. How to blame them? Lavinia Andorno
A face for Cartier Magicien
The magical German model Toni Garrn for Cartier.
Toni Garrn, 24, is the new face of Cartier to present the new high jewelry collection Magicien. Diamonds, rubies and emeralds are located right on the skin of the muse portrayed in front of a blue wall, dimly lit, with a light that creates a cozy atmosphere. In some shoots, a mirror reflects light and shade of this stylish and valuable combination. The trick of the model highlights the magic moment. Necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings made from precious stones and natural pearls are portraits by photographer Ben Hassett. The Magicien collection of Cartier has three distinct categories or, better, incantations: that of light, the projects and the otherworldly. The style of jewelry is loosely inspired by the art-deco. For the top model of Hamburg it is not the first collaboration with Cartier. The luxury brand has involved Toni Garrn even for the campaign of Cartier Baiser Volé perfume. Alessia Mongrando
It is already time to think about autumn or, rather, to take a look at upcoming collections. Here, for example, there are the innovations signed by the American designer Michael Kors, as always produced by Fossil, holding the brand license for the jewelry and watches. The novelties are called fringes and crystals that characterize the Fall 2016 collection The fringes are used to a large IP Gold steel necklace (price: 149 euros) and a pair of earrings, always gold-plated steel (99 euro). Another new feature is the finish “sable” for some pieces, like a bracelet (price: 99 euros), while the inserts in black acetate are present as in past collections of the brand. The American designer has just opened a new flagship store in London’s Regent Street. Lavinia Andorno
Carolina Bucci, sex in the summer
About Carolina Bucci we have already spoken. Now the Florentine designer, very popular in the US and Britain, is launching a new collection: Recharmed. The idea is of jewelry that may agree with a summer dress, light-hearted, perhaps from the beach. A little ‘Coachella and a little’ Central Park, but also with discovery of some elements dating back to the past, unearthed in the family drawers, which in Florence is active from over a century in jewelery. The necklaces are long, with semi-precious stones, such as white agate, sunset pink stones, dumorite and beads 18K gold. The sequence of spherical elements is tailored to the nuances of color: coral red bamboo is combined with pink or cream-colored. Carolina Bucci came to prominence almost by accident “I designed the first true pieces whe i was student in New York,” says the designer. “I have not had a store and did only what I liked. But those pieces appeared in Sex and the City and my name has become known. A bit too fast to be honest. ” But, obviously, those who have chosen the pieces of Carolina for fiction has done a good choise. Lavinia Andorno
The Mathilde’s island of treasure
If by chance you landed on the island of Ré, off the French Atlantic coast, you will find a jewelry designer who was born and works there: Mathilde Danglade. It is far away from the famous Parisian boutiques, but she agreed. She chose to stay away from the crowds of the french capital. She is one of those who has always had the desire to grapple with the jewelry, but before she was involved in advertising and publishing. Then, she changed her life. She spent several years in Hong Kong, where she honed notions of gemology. Returned to France in 2007, she opened M29, her first concept store in Saint Martin, on the island of Ré. She has also launched its first jewelery collection. In 2012, she opened a second concept store, M32, in the chic district of Brussels, near Place Brugmann. Her works are very focused on the stones, which wants to enhance the natural beauty: quartz, tourmaline, labradorite, agates, black onyx, white moonstone, pink opal and lapis lazuli, almost always in generous sizes. Despite her secluded location, now her pieces are distributed in more than one hundred stores around the world, from Tokyo to Paris, from Switzerland to the United States. Not bad to be started from a small island. Margherita Donato
The cubes of Kub
She is an interior designer, and now a jewelry one, with a large digression into the world of fashion: Lamia El Ghazouani, of Moroccan origin, has found in France the opportunity to express herself and decided to retrain her ideas of fashion. She is one of those people who are at ease everywhere: she goes around the world and has assimilated a tendency to regard the simple, clean, essential lines as the goal to reach. As evidenced by her latest collection of jewelry, which is called Kub. Does the name remind you, by any chance, of a four-sided solid? It’s right. In fact, there is a lot of geometry in the collection, which somehow reminds those games of wooden constructions with which children used to play (before they took possession of their Mom’s iPhone). Lamia Ghazouani relies on the collaboration of El Karim Tassi and now of Yasmine El Ghazouani Benabdellah: she is a jewelry designer for the Blue Jasmine brand, and she is working for the new line of rings, earrings and necklaces. The Kub jewels are made with gold and precious stones such as diamond or sapphire, with the addition of pearls. They seem more Nordic objects, than jewels with roots behind the Sahara. These are the jokes of globalization. Alessia Mongrando
The surprising jewels of Roberto Paolini
From chef to sculptor, and also jewelry designer: Roberto Paolini, who disappeared a couple of years ago, has been an outsider artist. Very known to few, that is to the lovers of contemporary art. And he has also been a collector of jewels. It is in Palazzo Serbelloni, in Milan, italian headquarters of the famous auction house Sotheby’s, that the jewels of his collection have been introduced. In this occasion the monograph dedicated to the artist has been presented, curated by Adriana Polveroni and edited by Maretti Editore. A volume that is the result of a series of closed doors performing events held in museums and national institutions, in a tour that has started in October. The project is born thanks to the manager of the Paolini Archive and daughter of the artist, Elena Paolini. During the eighties and nineties, as a young girl, she saw her father’s creations being born from his hands. Surprising her, almost thirty years later, someone made her the gift of bringing her into a room full of her father’s creations, preserved and filed through the years. Overwhelmed by the emotion and by the beauty of this collection, she decided to start the Archive and this project.
Here we speak about jewels, but Roberto Paolini communicated the art through his sculptures and paintings, but also in his kitchen: he was also known as chef. After the Italian participation (Museion di Bolzano, Mart di Rovereto, Palazzo Fortuny di Venezia, il Macro di Roma, la Fondazione Pier Luigi e Natalina Remotti di Camogli, la Collezione Ernesto Esposito di Napoli, la Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo di Torino), the tour is set to continue internationally with appearances in London as well as in Miami. In the monograph, adding to the pictures of the events, you can also find old pictures made from the artist himself and archives from magazines since at the end of the eighties the jewels of Roberto Paolini have been worn by Monica Bellucci in the Amica calendar, and were photographed in fashion magazines. E.A.
Qayten, miracle in Bologna
Qayten was born in Bologna, far from the traditional Italian goldsmith centers, in 2014. The result is almost miraculous: it arrived at the top of the jewellery industry in a short time and there are good prospects for a this miracle to continue. By the way, the Qayten name is a word in Sanskrit, the ancient language of India, which means “origin.” And perhaps it alludes to the road leading to the origin of the creative process. The result is an explosive mixture of luxury and design, new forms and unusual materials, such as the rare Indonesian wood matched with gold and diamonds. It is high contemporary jewelery. As the Bologna necklace, made of white gold covered in diamonds, which has the shape of a wave. Qayten wants to explore the farthest reaches of the jewelry, but of course with the intention of producing wearable jewelry and possibly incorporating a wow effect. We must admit that often it achieves this goal. As in the Paisley collection, with jewels that have an oriental fragrance that goes with a typical Italian construction technique. Or in the Bloom collection, where the jewels are transformed into light and bright flowers. Alessia Mongrando
Dml, the tradition continues
Luigino Dal Maso is a mature man, but preserves the diminutive: along with the name did not lose the style that characterizes Dml, acronym that condenses, in fact, the initials of the founder. The story is that of many other companies that make up the Italian jewelery market: the small workshop that specializes in time, enlarges customers, wins. It now has a name. Today Dml is a recognized signature for the choice of materials, the particularity of the gems in cuts and color matching. It is a Made in Italy that continues: the jewels are designed and produced exclusively in Italy by the agile hands of its artisans. They are real jewels: gold, natural and precious stones such as diamonds, sapphires and pearls, are used to create the collections, which include successful lines. A couple of examples are those evidenced by the pictures on this page: the Flowers and Gardens collections. In the first case they were used white gold and diamonds, but in sober shades of white and gray. In the second collection, diamonds and burnished gold accompany the topaz. Alessia Mongrando
Double V for Versace
Right now the best friends of Donatella Versace they don’t have name Naomi or Giselle, but Virya and Vedana. But she are not models ready to parade on the catwalk of the winter or summer collections. They are, however, the names of the two collections of Versace Fine Jewellery, that arriving right when the new season starts. The Virya collection is made with very sharp geometric shapes, with the choice of using a cone from the blunt end, and with precious and semi precious stones such as diamonds, onyx, amethyst and citrine honey color: there is also the greek, the classic line that distinguishes for decades the proposals of the Maison, which is located in the lower part of the rings. The collection includes rings, necklaces. The Vedana collection has a different form, and consists of earrings and rings that hold small balls of colored stones cut in nine different sizes. The gold is pink or white, with small diamonds, and holds the jewel. Alessia Mongrando
Collaro, the classic is always in vogue
With a corporate rather stormy past (it was the late nineties) it is hard to recover. But Teresa Squillante, perhaps thanks to the synergies offered by the Goldsmith Center The Tarì, near Caserta, can now present the Collaro brand, founded by her husband Thomas, showing first of all its gold production. That was, and remains, a good level of quality. Jewelry, made entirely by hand with the right attention to detail, made from white gold, diamonds, precious stones. Nothing revolutionary: the idea is, if anything, to visually reassure that the main objective is to create jewelry that last. In short, do not go out of fashion and they retain their value. Earrings with rubies, rings with diamonds pavé and emeralds little erratic, necklaces with gemstones flowers, are just some examples of the expertise of the Neapolitan Jewelry, which has gone to Jck Las Vegas looking for foreign buyers. Alessia Mongrando
Venice wears the vanguard
There are going up exhibitions dedicated to the jewel: the next one is scheduled in Venice. From the Museum of Vicenza, passing through the festivals during the Milan Design Week, to large exhibitions to Asti and Turin: it seems that the jewel has become a work of coolest Italian art. The new exhibition is planned within the event on Design.Ve design. Curated by Ilaria Ruggiero, the exhibition is organized with the support of the School of Jewellery Alchemy and sponsored by the Association of Contemporary Jewellery.
Design.Ve is a popular festival in the most beautiful lagoon city in the world. And, among the things to see in this event is Adornment – Contemporary Jewelry Exhibition, section dedicated to contemporary jewelery. The theme of the exhibition this year is The shape of wearable art, “a jewellery that explores and crosses the typical formal boundaries of the body to defy the mere fit and be above the limit.” In fact, the spirit of the program is traveling on the vanguard: those pieces that were selected for form, design and use of the material, challenge the conventional fitting space to pass him and enter into dialogue with the body in an unexpected manner, able to unveil new senses and meanings tied to the identity of the individual, as it be single or inserted in the community.
On display will be exhibited 14 artists and designers on the international jewel: Rosalba Balsamo, Florence Croisier, Clara Pope, Marion Delarue, Eleonora Ghilardi, Elie Hirsch, Florence Jaquet, Laberintho, Chiara Lucato, Letizia May, Paola Mirai, Ōki Izumi, Nazan Pak and Caterina Zanca. Federico Graglia
Adornment – Contemporary Jewelry Exhibition
The shape of wearable art
Venice in a Bottle
Castello 1794
30122 Venice
25 May-26 June 2016
Monday to Sunday 10:00 to 20:00
Opening Thursday, May 26, 2016 at 19.00
A poppy for Aurélie
Aurélie Bidermann instructed the Disko marketing agency of the restyling of its e-commerce site. The fanciful Parisian designer has decided to make a change in their commercial image on the web, which did not correspond to his personality. She describes herself in this way: “Imagine a meeting between Paris Patrick Modiano and charming lightness of Bianca Jagger, the Haussmann architectural lines and the fluidity of a Halston gown. Imagine the collision between classicism and exuberance mineral Tropicalist, the Place de l’Etoile and the jungles of South America, and you get an idea of who is Aurélie Bidermann”. In his shop workshop in the heart of the Latin Quarter (https://gioiellis.com/aurelie-bidermann-madame-paris/) the designer has become known thanks to its movable jewels, which contain small stones free, that can move like elements of a kaleidoscope. But not only does what, as you can see from the news for the spring-summer season 2016. As the golden bracelet in the shape of the Paloma collection with poppy flower shape. Rudy Serra
The Beyoncé jewels
She did speak not only his fans, but also serious journalists and television commentators: Beyoncé has launched her video album, Lemonade, with a disruptive message against the company and the men (those who betray easily, perhaps her Jay-Z) . Precisely for this it attracted the attention to herself. Since the video lasts an hour, the singer wears a set of clothes (including a mustard yellow of the autumn collection of Roberto Cavalli), and also a large number of jewelry. Which? Li has revealed the site hollywoodreporter.com, who interviewed Swedish costume designer Bea Akerlund, the project manager. «The shoes are Saint Laurent, and I mixed a lot of jewelry. Beyonce’s wearing a hand piece, an anklet and a body chain by Jacquie Aiche; a Lynn Ban diamond-cuff earring and ring — it looks like a big cuff that’s hanging on her right ear; a Jennifer Fisher cigar ring; Fallon gold hoop earrings; a custom-made Kismet by Milka “B” ring; and a bracelet by Le Vian. I’m a bit of a jewelry freak … I’m totally obsessed with too much accessories», she said. So, you can now imitate Beyoncé outfit, but no baseball bat, please. Rudy Serra
Amrapali enchants Kate
If Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, during his trip to India wore earrings lapis lazuli and diamonds signed Amrapali there is a reason. Okay, in part it is also a sign of polite, to show that the jewelry made in India is apreciate by the British royal family. But it is also because Amrapali is one of the most famous and appreciated Maison of Jaipur, the capital of Indian jewelry. Even many Bollywood stars wear jewelry of this brand which is named (perhaps the Duchess of Cambridge ignored him) of a famous royal courtesan, lived around 500 BC in ancient India. But it is also the name of the Muse of inspiration, intuition and a higher spiritual vision through its timeless beauty and grace. It is a figure so famous in the Asian subcontinent that his name is also mentioned in the ancient Pali Buddhist traditions. A little more concretely, the jewelry company is driven by the passion of its founders, Rajesh Ajmera and Rajiv Arora, who like to revive the ancient tradition of Indian jewelery, but revisited and taken to the highest levels with a rich processing and with high quality stones. Lavinia Andorno
You do not forget to Casato
The Roman Maison Casato is so stingy in communicating his creations, as prodigal in achieving high-class collections. The last two, landed in Baselwolrd, were called Forget Me Not and Back to Origin. A closer look from a semantic point of view the two ideas seem related: you could summarize in a “do not forget the origin’. And in fact, the Casato menu is always with the same precious ingredients: a careful selection of combinations of metal and precious stones, jewels with aligned in a classical fashion. Although, with forget me not, in the poor images that we found on an Asian site geometries are more hefty, almost with references to the ancient shields of imperial Rome. Again the memories emerge. But probably (ah, knowing it) is not the intent of the brand. With safety, instead, one can identify the stones used for the collections. Besides white and colored diamonds, there are amethyst, blue topaz, peridot, rodolite, white opal, emerald and rubies. Among the new entries there are also new pieces into the older collections, such as Boutique and Aquarius, with white and pink gold in small metal beads, with the outline of diamonds. An ever appetizing menu. Lavinia Andorno
Jewels of Italy with design
Many jewels and an albino setting: from 2 April to 12 September, in Milan there is to see the exhibition Brilliant! The future of the Italian jewel, organized as part of the XXI International Exhibition of the Milan Triennale, entitled 21st Century. Design After design, which includes 20 exhibitions around the city in six months. In addition to jewelry, in short, there’s plenty of other things to see if you like the design is a chance (we recommend to visit the whole exhibition anyway). The section devoted to jewelry is curated by Alba Cappellieri. The goal is to connect the jewel of art and design, plus the temptations dictated by fashion. Between craft and technology, they are on display Italian jewelry worn by white plaster busts: the set is truly amazing. By the way: we said plaster busts, because the jewels are all of the same type, ie necklaces. There are unique pieces or with a particular interest. An example: Calla, an ebony with three elements in pavé diamonds by Vhernier. It consists of a single element which, repeated, it chases. It’s made in several versions, including a version with all rose gold elements, a kogolong and rose gold, a full pavé diamonds, it has become an icon of the brand. But the represented brands are many, from Bulgari to Crivelli, from Antonini at Pomellato. Monica Battistoni
Brilliant! I futuri del gioiello italiano
Palazzo della Triennale
Viale Alemagna, 6
20121 Milano, Italia
Biglietti: ticket singolo 15 euro, consente di entrare una volta in ciascun luogo nell’arco dei sei mesi. Season pass 22 euro: permette di accedere a tutte le sedi quante volte si desidera da aprile a settembre.
If the necklace is succulent
Okay, occasionally gioiellis.com let ourselves enchanted by something bizarre, like the succulent jewels. Not in the sense that they are good to eat: are so called because they are made from a type of vegetal which is defined as succulent. In essence they are halfway between the succulents (but without thorns) and the most common ones. The idea of Susan McLeary is to grow, ops, to create jewelry that grow while wearing it. Susan is a florist-jeweler who lives in Michigan, USA. She use the succulent plants to compose necklaces, rings, bracelets, earrings. Each vegetal jewelry can be worn for two to four weeks, then the plants become too bulky and must plant them in a pot. In short, you can grow your jewelry, and to water your earrings and bracelets. You can buy the creations of Susan McLeary on Etsy online platform. Lavinia Andorno
Masterpieces at Tefaf
If you love high-class jewelry, maybe the old jewels, it’s a golden opportunity that comes back: the Tefaf Maastricht, important event dedicated to antiques. In Tefaf you will find everything of the highest quality: furniture, paintings, ceramics, and also exceptional jewelry, as those who publish here as preview. The Tefaf 2016 will be held from 11 to 20 March at the Mecc (Maastricht Exhibition and Congress Centre) of the Dutch city. You have time, then, to prepare for a visit. It’s worth it: in addition to the jewelry you see on this page (is a selection of those who will be exposed), the Dutch exhibition is also an opportunity for numerous cultural events. An area of the fair, for example, will be curated by Mark Kremer: space is entitled «Zeige Deine Wunde / Show your wound», reference to a sculptural work made by Joseph Beuys in an underground passage in Monaco in 1974. The installation will show the work of artists who continue to explore and express the ideas of death, decay, expropriation and the sense of trauma (injury), as suggested in the original work Beuys. In addition, there is the exhibition of a collection of prints and drawings from the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam, with works by Bellini, Grünewald, Dürer, Fra Bartolomeo, Tintoretto, Rubens and Rembrandt to be complemented by modern and contemporary works by artists such as Degas, Cezanne, Dali, Magritte, Fontana and Kusama.
Tefaf
Mecc (Maastricht Exhibition & Congress Centre)
Hours: 11am to 7.00pm (on 20 March the Fair closes at 06.00pm)
Entrance € 40 € 25 € 60 Catalogue Entrance (1 person including 1 catalog) Passepartout € 125 (including 1 catalog) € 20 Children under 12 accompanied by 12-18 yearsChildren an adult free
Jewelery online: they are the future?
The jewelers have the hours counted? There will only online stores? A news not too bright, but that makes you think, it is reported from the site Professional Jewellers: Payne and Son, who started his business in Kent in 1790 and then opened a branch in Oxford 146 years ago, it had to close its doors due the growth of online shopping. The jewelry has suffered a decline in sales at Christmas and they concluded that it could no longer compete with the online store. Not the first jewelry that closes due to the migration of jewelry sales on the online channel, especially purchases between 50 and 350 euro, but not only. Research by Federpreziosi curated by Spice-Research in collaboration with Studio EffeErre on a sample of 1,750 respondents indicates that for Valentine’s Day 2016, 28% of those who bought a jewel in Italy was based on what was seen in the windows, but almost equally, 27%, has been entrusted to the web.
The trend for the coming years
The search for Federpreziosi agrees with the result of analysis conducted in 2015 by Exane BNP Paribas Research together with Luxury Goods & ContactLab on the luxury market. According to the analysis of the French bank, the number of customers registered online and digitally contactable continues to rise. And the customers who are involved via the web then spend more in the store (+ 16%). Who can digitally contact customers, can develop cross-channel platforms (internet more physical store) and these cross-channel clients spend more (on average more than 60% of others). Finally, it is continuing to increase the share of online shoppers of luxury goods every year (from 30% in 2011 to 37% in 2014).
The developments
Jewelers should know that, according to this analysis, by 2020 the luxury brands will know virtually all of their clients, given that those registered online will be 45%, and those contacted by e-mail 41%. Ie almost 90% of all customers in-store will be followed online. And, to make matters worse: the ability to use an online platform will decide the success or failure for luxury brands, given that sales of e-commerce will be at least two or three times the current ones. Federico Graglia