Anna Hu

Aquamarine at x-ray

All you need to know about one of the gems most loved by jewelry: the aquamarine, which is also the stone of the month of March ♦

The aquamarine is one of the stones most used in jewelry. Major brands of jewelry have included it in their collections. Yet it is little known by the general public that ignores the quality and, above all, the features.

Anello Lyla's Bow con diamanti acquamarina brasiliana
Vania Leles, Lyla’s Bow ring with Brazilian aquamarine diamonds

Identikit. Transparent and crystalline: not by chance is called aquamarine that glitter even under lowlight conditions. A quality that makes it a “star” of fine jewelry. Like emerald, is a stone that belongs to the beryl family. The structure, however, is very different from the green gem: the iron impurities inside give that deep azure blue color, while chromium and vanadium tinged with green emerald. Almost always, the aquamarine is without inclusions: whether appear the star effect or the one called cat eyes it becomes invaluable. Its hardness allows jewelers to experiment with innovative cuts and, in fact, has been used for the Color du Temps necklace from the Peau d’âne collection by Van Cleef & Arpels, for the jewelry designed by Tiffany in the movie The Great Gatsby, for the Bulgari Serpente bought by Justin Bieber during the charity auction at Cannes Film Festival.

Pomellato, bracciale Pom Pom in oro rosa e argento con 729 acquamarina taglio brillante per un totale di oltre 17 carati
Pomellato, Pom Pom bracelet in rose gold and silver with 729 brilliant cut aquamarine for a total of over 17 carats

Color. the range of colors of aquamarine is very narrow: blue, slightly greenish blue, greenish blue, blue-green, blue. The rarest shades are dark blue and slightly greenish blue. In general, the more intense is blue, greater is the stone value: that’s why the most common ones tend to light green.

Acquamarina allo stato naturale
Aquamarine in its natural state

Treatment. Aquamarine is a mineral that is almost always the subject of a treatment to make it more pleasant. Much of the aquamarine in its natural state, in fact, has a blue-green color. For this reason the stone is heated to a rather high temperature. This process can remove the greenish color from the material and transform the hue of the stone into a pleasant deep blue. So if they tell you that an aquamarine is absolutely natural you do not have to believe it. But this does not mean that the result can’t be appreciated.

Anello con acquamarina taglio cuscino, lato superiore . Titanio blu, acquamarina, zaffiri, quarzo capelvenere
Lydia Courteille, ring with cushion cut aquamarine, upper side. Blue titanium, aquamarine, sapphires, maidenhair quartz

Provenance. The best known reserves of aquamarine are those in Minas Gerais, whose buds have a distinctive deep blue color. Always in Brazil there is the Santa Maria de Itabira mine with deep blue, stones which are a favorite choice of gemologists. Other deposits are exploited on an industrial scale in the Urals, Nigeria, Madagascar, Mozambique and Pakistan. As a rule, the color is saturated if weigh more than 5 carats, while the smaller stones are lighter, with the exception of some specimens from Madagascar, known for a very strong hues even if under 5 carats. That’s why it costs more compared to other stones of the same color, but as higher dimensions.

Sanalitro, anello con acquamarina e diamanti
Sanalitro, ring with aquamarine and diamonds
Schlumberger per Tiffany & Co. orecchini Seven Leaves con due aquamarine oval per un totale di 14,89 carati e diamanti taglio brillante
Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Seven Leaves earrings with two oval aquamarines for a total of 14.89 carats and brilliant-cut diamonds
Orecchini in oro bianco, alluminio, argento, acquamarina
Hemmerle, earrings in white gold, aluminium, silver, aquamarine
Spilla con acquamarina, oro bianco, diamanti
Naomi Sarna, brooch with aquamarine, white gold, diamonds
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina
Mirco Visconti, ring in white gold, diamonds and aquamarine
Orecchini Trilliant, con oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina
Fadoua Hueb, Trilliant earrings, with white gold, diamonds and aquamarine
Fraleoni, anello con acquamarina
Fraleoni, ring with aquamarine

The jewels of Tefaf Maastricht




In Maastricht (Netherlands) Tefaf is back (11-19 March) and, alongside antiques and works of art from the 270 exhibitors, it also presents, as always, extraordinary high jewellery. On display are vintage designer jewels, but also new ones, signed by Maisons that choose Tefaf to showcase their new creations, such as the German Hemmerle, Boghossian, Otto Jakob, but there are also jewelery brands such as van Cleef & Arpels .

Collana in oro, smeraldi, zaffiri e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels
Collana in oro, smeraldi, zaffiri e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels

Among the new jewels present, new pieces presented by the artist-designer Anna Hu should not be forgotten, such as the Enchanted Lily Bangle bracelet, centered by a 53.92-carat peridot with colored gems, diamonds and gems. But even vintage jewelry has a special charm. For example, the heritage necklace and clip pendant by Van Cleef & Arpels created in 1971 in yellow gold, with 13 engraved emeralds for approximately 35.52 carats, 14 Burmese sapphires also engraved for approximately 32.17 carats and diamonds.

Fabergé, spilla in oro, diamanti e crisopraso
Fabergé, spilla in oro, diamanti e crisopraso

Another piece out of the ordinary is the brooch with a chrysoprase in the center signed by Fabergé: it has an extraordinary provenance, which includes three European royal families, Danish, Greek and Russian imperial. Last note: last year at Tefaf (which was held in June due to covid) a sensational, incredible robbery took place, with the theft of a necklace worth 27 million euros. But it seems that no one has been put off by this precedent.

Anna Hu, collana Peacock
Anna Hu, collana Peacock
Boghossian, orecchini con conch pearl, diamanti gialli e zaffiri rosa
Boghossian, orecchini con conch pearl, diamanti gialli e zaffiri rosa
Hemmerle, anello con diamante brillante di 5,68 carati e diamanti reverse
Hemmerle, anello con diamante brillante di 5,68 carati e diamanti reverse per 2,5 carati







Anna Hu and Moussaieff, high jewelery for two

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It is not often that great jewelers and designers collaborate together. This is what happened with the high jewelery collection that Anna Hu created for Moussaieff. The Taiwanese designer has designed eight exceptional pieces, including a butterfly-shaped ring that can be worn in five ways and features a large 8.22-carat marquise-cut diamond in the center. She wore it Maria Bakalova, a star of the Borat sequel, during the Oscars ceremony. The meeting between the London-based jeweler and the refined Taiwanese designer was encouraged by Alisa Moussaieff, the 91-year-old owner and president of the family business, which is two centuries in the gem business.

Spilla a forma di giglio-con un raro diamante bianco a forma di cuore di 55,75 carati
Spilla a forma di giglio, con un raro diamante bianco a forma di cuore di 55,75 carati

Other exceptional pieces are a ring with a sugar loaf cut sapphire of over 50 carats, or the lily-shaped brooch with a rare white heart-shaped diamond of 55.75 carats. The pieces are on a traveling exhibition between Taipei, Shanghai and Beijing, for wealthy Asian buyers. Only if some are left unsold will they be housed in Moussaieff’s London boutique.

Alisa Moussaieff
Alisa Moussaieff
Anello a forma di farfalla con diamante di 8,22 carati
Anello a forma di farfalla con diamante di 8,22 carati
Anello Art Déco con zaffiro da 50,52 carati
Anello Art Déco con zaffiro da 50,52 carati
Anna Hu
Anna Hu
Bozzetto per l'anello farfalla
Bozzetto per l’anello farfalla






Christie’s and Anna Hu’s anti-coronavirus diamonds




Diamonds that are good for health. And not just the psychological one of the wearer. Christie’s organized an online auction of three beautiful jewels created by Anna Hu. And the proceeds will go towards supporting health workers who fight against coronavirus. The auction will take place from 3 to 13 July: the pieces will be sold by Diamonds That Care, the recent social responsibility initiative of Alrosa, the largest diamond mining company in the world.

Il diamante brown di Alrosa da 27,02 carati utilizzato per la collana di Anna Hu
Il diamante brown di Alrosa da 27,02 carati utilizzato per la collana di Anna Hu

The main idea of ​​the initiative is that every diamond should help those in need. The designer, Anna Hu, created these unique pieces exclusively for this charity project using brown diamonds extracted from Alrosa in Yakutia, a region of the Siberian Far East. The proceeds from the sale will help health workers who continue to work at the center of efforts to combat the pandemic. The project is organized in collaboration with the non-profit organization Diamonds Do Good.
La lavorazione della collana
La lavorazione della collana

Anna Hu, born in Taiwan from a family active in the jewelry sector, lives in New York. But surprisingly, before becoming one of the most imaginative high jewelery designers, she studied cello, winning national awards. In the United States, she continued her studies at the New England Conservatory of Music. But her musical career was interrupted due to a shoulder injury. From musical notes to color notes: Anna Hu decided to take care of jewelry: she attended the Gemological Institute of America and FIT in New York. And in 2001 he earned a Masters in Art History from the Parsons School of Design, followed by a Masters in Arts Administration from Columbia University. In short, a genius capable of doing charity.
Bozzetto della collana
Bozzetto della collana

Disegni preparatori degli orecchini
Disegni preparatori degli orecchini
La lavorazione del collier
La lavorazione del collier

Disegno preparatorio per l'anello
Disegno preparatorio per l’anello

Anna Hu
Anna Hu







Anna Hu’s musical jewels at the Sotheby’s auction




Anna Hu’s extraordinary jewels from the Silk Road collection will be auctioned at Sotheby’s on October 7 ♦ ︎

The lovers of great jewels proposed in large auctions by large auction companies have already marked the date on the calendar: on October 7, in Hong Kong, Sotheby’s organizes an event that includes five pieces created by Anna Hu, a fine jewelry artist. In fact, among the Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite of the catalog, there will also be the jewels of Anna Hu’s latest collection, Silk Road Music Collection, presented in Paris.

Read also: Anna Hu, high jewelry in music

Orecchini Ellington, dedicati al grande jazzista. Sono in oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, zaffiri blu e diamanti bianchi. Il gioiello raffigura una tastiera di pianoforte a forma di arpa con una perla di conch che pende al centro di ciascun orecchino e ricorda le note musicali
Orecchini Ellington, dedicati al grande jazzista. Sono in oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, zaffiri blu e diamanti bianchi. Il gioiello raffigura una tastiera di pianoforte a forma di arpa con una perla di conch che pende al centro di ciascun orecchino e ricorda le note musicali

The collection consists of a dozen jewels inspired by the musical and cultural environment between East and West, virtually united by the Silk Road, the ancient trade route that came from China to Europe. The choice of the subject, among other things, involved Anna Hu, who studied cello as a girl, a career interrupted due to a shoulder injury as a girl.

La collana Pipa Dunhuang, con un diamante giallo intenso di fantasia da 100,02 carati e diamanti bianchi
La collana Pipa Dunhuang, con un diamante giallo intenso di fantasia da 100,02 carati e diamanti bianchi

The pieces at the auction are real masterpieces, starting with the Dunhuang Pipa Necklace, with an intense yellow fantasy diamond of 100.02 carats supplied by Sotheby’s. The estimate of the jewel is 5-6.25 million dollars. The name can be misleading: the shape of this necklace resembles a Chinese pipe, which is a musical instrument similar to a lute, with four strings. It is in 18-carat white gold, with a sparkling pavé of diamonds running along the neckline. The artist – designer Hu said he was inspired by images of women playing piping in Dunhuang, an oasis for travelers in the desert area of ​​northwestern China along the Silk Road. The necklace can be transformed into brooch and earrings. But the other jewels are equally exceptional. Federico Graglia




Anello Appassionata, in oro bianco 18 carati. I cinque rubini rappresentano i tasti neri del piano
Anello Appassionata, in oro bianco 18 carati. I cinque rubini rappresentano i tasti neri del piano

La spilla si ispira al quadro intitolato Violino appeso al muro di Pablo Picasso. Il gioiello è composto da quattro giadeiti, da 1,43 carati a 34,93 carati, in oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, diamanti gialli e bianchi
La spilla si ispira al quadro intitolato Violino appeso al muro di Pablo Picasso. Il gioiello è composto da quattro giadeiti, da 1,43 carati a 34,93 carati, in oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, diamanti gialli e bianchi

Il motivo cinese della Gazza blu e bianca è realizzato in titanio e oro bianco e giallo 18 carati,  con un pavé di oltre 500 gemme, delicati rami di alberi in oro bianco incastonati con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba. Una perla conch  diventa un uovo su un nido d'oro giallo. Il pezzo è stato ispirato dall'antico motivo a fiori e uccelli blu e bianco su un piatto di porcellana a forma di cerchio del National Museum of History di Washington, DC, nonché alle opere di Giuseppe Castiglione, missionario gesuita e pittore del corte imperiale cinese
Il motivo cinese della Gazza blu e bianca è realizzato in titanio e oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, con un pavé di oltre 500 gemme, delicati rami di alberi in oro bianco incastonati con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba. Una perla conch diventa un uovo su un nido d’oro giallo. Il pezzo è stato ispirato dall’antico motivo a fiori e uccelli blu e bianco su un piatto di porcellana a forma di cerchio del National Museum of History di Washington, DC, nonché alle opere di Giuseppe Castiglione, missionario gesuita e pittore del corte imperiale cinese







Anna Hu, high jewelry in music





High jewelry, high creativity and even music in the new collection of Anna Hu ♦ ︎

Paris, haute couture, high jewelry. In short, between Place Vendôme and the Louvre you can walks up, among the clouds. The high jewelry collections presented at the beginning of July 2019 testify to an always very high level. One of the most surprising collections was that of Anna Hu dedicated to music. The Taiwanese-born designer, who now lives and works in New York, is considered a genius. And also, according to some, the most expensive designer of high jewelry. It could be true. His pieces are few, refined, elaborate, rich. And also smart.

Jadeite Cello Brooch, spilla con giada, oro bianco, diamanti bianchi e gialli
Jadeite Cello Brooch, spilla con giada, oro bianco, diamanti bianchi e gialli

The small Silk Road Music Collection was presented in the dance hall of the Hotel Ritz in Paris, on Place Vendôme: a perfect location to combine luxury and music. Hard to say which of the jewels is more beautiful. Certainly the Jadeite Cello brooch has attracted attention, inspired by a painting by Picasso and also the graphic sign that precedes the pentagram on musical scores. The treble clef is made with four pieces of expertly molded jadeite, from 1.43 carats to 34.93 carats. The designer instead uses gold for the body of the brooch together with a pavé with yellow and white diamonds.
Blue Magpie Brooch
Blue Magpie Brooch

The title of the collection indicates, however, also another element: the road that unites the East to the West. In this case a musical road, a connecting element that allows you to savor the best of both worlds. There is also a pinch of Italy: the Blue Magpie brooch, in fact, is inspired by Giuseppe Castiglione, a Jesuit missionary and painter who in the eighteenth century, at the imperial court of China, created an original style of painting. The brooch is made with colored precious stones that form two magpies, a nest and blue flowers.

Anna Hu, orecchini Ellington, ispirati al musicista americano Duke Ellington
Anna Hu, orecchini Ellington, ispirati al musicista americano Duke Ellington

And, again, Rachmaninov’s bracelet, a Russian composer and late romantic pianist, uses many colored stones, as the music composed by the artist was very colorful. However, the bracelet is inspired by St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow. Russia is, in fact, on the Silk Road.




Anello Papillon, in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri, acquamarina
Anello Papillon, in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri, acquamarina
Siren's Aria, anello in oro bianco con acquamarina
Siren’s Aria, anello in oro bianco con acquamarina
NNA HU Siren’s Aria Earrings in Aquamarine
Orecchini Siren’s Aria con acquamarina
Bracciale di Anna Hu dedicato a Rachmaninov
Bracciale di Anna Hu dedicato a Rachmaninov
Bracciale di Anna Hu dedicato a Rachmaninov, aperto
Bracciale di Anna Hu dedicato a Rachmaninov, aperto
Anello Papillon, in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri e rubellite
Anello Papillon, in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri e rubellite

Anello Papillon con rubino e diamanti
Anello Papillon con rubino e diamanti







The Biennale of high jewelery




In Paris the Biennale des Antiquaires is back with great jewels ♦ ︎
In Paris, at the Grand Palais, the Biennale des Antiquaires (11-17 September) is back. It follows the fair, a bit debated, of 2016. And more, it is still called Biennale, but it was decided that this year will be held every year: who knows if it will change its name. He has certainly changed president: he chose an American, Christopher Forbes, vice president of the publishing house and big collector. In addition, an independent expert committee, called to verify the authenticity of the pieces on display (some fake had caused a scandal last year) was introduced.
In short, the great fair founded in 1959 by André Malraux, novelist and French minister at Culture, changes. But at the same time it remains the same: this year there will be 94 exhibitors with proposals ranging from antiques, Renaissance paintings to Pop art, from watches to jewels. The latter category, for fans, is divided into vintage jewels, with pieces by Maisons as Van Cleef & Arpels or Cartier, and high jewelery with few selected brands: Boghossian, Glenn Spiro, Anna Hu, Moussaieff Jewelers, Nirav Modi. Federico Graglia




Boghossian, anello con diamanti e zaffiri
Boghossian, anello con diamanti e zaffiri
Anna Hu, farfalla
Anna Hu, farfalla
Anello di de Grisogono con diamante centrale, 412 rubini e 94 diamanti bianchi
Anello di de Grisogono con diamante centrale, 412 rubini e 94 diamanti bianchi
Bracciale Tutti i Frutti di Cartier, 1938
Bracciale Tutti i Frutti di Cartier, 1938
Collana di Boghossian con diamanti gialli e bianchi
Collana di Boghossian con diamanti gialli e bianchi
Orecchini di Boghossian con diamanti gialli e bianchi
Orecchini di Boghossian con diamanti gialli e bianchi
Collier a forma di piuma in titanio con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba
Collier a forma di piuma in titanio con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba
Collier e bracciale di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960
Collier e bracciale di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960
Orecchini di diamanti e rubini di Nirav Modi
Orecchini di diamanti e rubini di Nirav Modi
Spilla di Bulgari, 1960
Spilla di Bulgari, 1960
Tiara con diamanti del 1910
Tiara con diamanti del 1910

Orecchini di Van Cleef & Arpels
Orecchini di Van Cleef & Arpels con zaffiri e rubini







Anna Hu crowned by Christie’s

Anna Hu in exhibition at Christie’s, it’s the top of her fast career fast as a light (of genius) ♦
Everybody know she is one of the stars of the world jewelery. But few would have guessed that Anna Hu would be the first contemporary designer to be invited by Christie’s to exhibit in her new hall at St James in London. A selection of his refined jewels, which are considered artworks, were on display for five days. On the other hand, in addition to incredible architectures with gemstones, the jewels of Anna Hu often inspire paintings and sculptures. In short, in many cases they are a kind of meta-art, that is art of art.
Anna Hu was born in Taiwan in 1977, but since childhood she has travels the world together with her father, a merchant of precious and rare gems. Curiously, however, she began her artistic fortune as a cellist: she even won several prizes, but a shoulder injury forced her to stop. Luckily, you could add. She then took the jewelery road. After the Gia, she placed in the drawer two academic titles related to jewelery from Parsons School of Design and Columbia University. A sort of record.
She worked at Christie’s, Van Cleef and Arpels, and Harry Winston. Then, she opened her exclusive jewelery boutique in December 2008, just 29 years old, at the New York Plaza Hotel. She create about than 30 exclusive Haute Jewelery pieces per year for lucky (and wealthy) collectors. In short, she has already achieved success. But in reality her career is still to be written. Margherita Donato
Also read: The High Jewelry of Anna Hu




Anelli Orchidea, oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri
Anelli Orchidea, oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri

Anello Butterfly Lovers
Anello Butterfly Lovers
Anello Sirens Aria, con uno smeraldo da oltre 20 carati
Anello Sirens Aria, con uno smeraldo da oltre 20 carati
Anello Non ti scordar di me, con un grande zaffiro blu
Anello Non ti scordar di me, con un grande zaffiro blu
Anna Hu, spilla in giada che si ispira a un dipinto con gazze
Anna Hu, spilla in giada che si ispira a un dipinto con gazze
Anello Onda, con smeraldo. Ispirato alla famosa onda del pittore giapponese Kanagawa
Anello Onda, con smeraldo. Ispirato alla famosa onda del pittore giapponese Kanagawa
Anna Hu con David Warren di Christie's (da Facebook)
Anna Hu con David Warren di Christie’s (da Facebook)
Anello con giada e diamanti Orpheus, battuto da Christie's
Anello con giada e diamanti Orpheus, battuto da Christie’s
Spilla con grosso zaffiro, diamanti e smeraldi
Spilla con grosso zaffiro, diamanti e smeraldi

Orecchini Turandot, con rubellite
Orecchini Turandot, con rubellite







The high jewelry of Anna Hu

The high jewelry is sometimes so high that you can not see: it is reserved to few lucky who can enter the private rooms of the Maison. It is therefore a fortune when, as happened in the Louvre, are shown one hundred pieces of unique and extraordinary jewelry. But the surprise was also another: the exhibits were of a unique young designer Anna Hu. The honor and responsibility to show own work a few meters from that of Leonardo da Vinci and his associates, has not shaken the enterprising jeweler Sino-American, who created, among other things, a bracelet and ring for Gwyneth Paltrow Academy Awards a couple of years ago. But, apart from the color notes, it are even more surprising her jewelry. The Anna Hu Orpheus emerald ring was sold for more than $ 2 million at a Christie’s auction in Hong Kong: a world record for a contemporary Chinese artist jewelry. And to say that Anna Hu was a cellist and has also played with the famous Yo-Yo Ma. But a shoulder injury has hampered his chances of becoming a senior musician (his favorite musics are the Rachmaninoff concerts for piano 1, 2, 3 and the classical Beethoven’s ninth). Hu has so studied jewelry design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and followed a masteralla Columbia University. He has opened its first boutique in New York Plaza Hotel in 2008, followed by its flagship store in Shanghai. So from cello turned to rings and bracelets, and she entered in the elite of the great jewelers. Margherita Donato




Anello con diamanti colorati
Anello con diamanti colorati

Anello Orpheo con smeraldo cabochon
Anello Orpheo con smeraldo cabochon
Anello rosa, con diamanti, zaffiri, rubino
Anello rosa, con diamanti, zaffiri, rubino
Anna Hu
Anna Hu
Collana Cleopatra, con diamanti, tsavoriti, granati, spinelli
Collana Cleopatra, con diamanti, tsavoriti, granati, spinelli
Collana Ninfee di Monet
Collana Ninfee di Monet

Spille di Anna Hu
Spille di Anna Hu