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Cannabis and jewelry, the odd couple

Marijuana leaves also inspire fine jewelry, from Bulgari to Daniela Villegas and … ♦︎

The New York Times has also written about this: the world of jewelery and high jewelery has discovered the new leaves and flowers for its inspiration. After the lotus flower, the roses, the daisies and the innocent calla, the new vegetable to arouse interest is cannabis. Yes, the plant that, when properly pruned and dried turns into marijuana.

Bulgari, collier ispirato alla marijuana in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi
Bulgari, collier ispirato alla marijuana in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi

Bijoux at low prices that reproduce cannabis leaves have been on sale for years. They are sold to an alternative youth audience and are quite simple. Now, however, even the world of high jewelry has decided that marijuana leaves are a subject to be transformed into jewelry. Even following the decision by some countries, such as Canada or California, to liberalize cannabis use. Bulgari, for example, has recently presented a collection, Wild Pop, which also features pieces that reproduce marijuana leaves, like a necklace with diamonds and emeralds. A provocation? Maybe. But it’s calculated. In California Daniela Villegas has proposed a series of necklaces with pendants in the shape of pipes for smoking grass, made in gold, tourmaline, prehnite and topaz.

Daniela Villegas, collana con pendente vaporizzatore di cannabis, oro, diamanti, tormalina, lapislazzuli
Daniela Villegas, collana con pendente vaporizzatore di cannabis, oro, diamanti, tormalina, lapislazzuli

Also in California lives another designer who added marijuana leaves to her Sweet Leaf collection, Jacquie Aiche. A little more related to the alternative, but luxury world, is the Sapphire Collective in Los Angeles, which created the Stoned collection with necklaces and pendants in 18k gold with sapphires that they have the shape of joint, worn by a model who smokes visibly.

Brent Neale Winston ha deciso di portare al Couture di Las Vegas le sue creazioni in oro, diamanti e malachite
Brent Neale Winston ha deciso di portare al Couture di Las Vegas le sue creazioni in oro, diamanti e malachite

Nikki Erwin of the Established brand has instead created a pair of diamond earrings and a bracelet coordinated with a series of cannabis leaves, which are often mistaken for innocent stars. And Brent Neale Winston decided to bring his gold, diamond and malachite creations to Las Vegas Couture. A stone that is perfect for her jewelry with the shape of marijuana leaves.

Orecchino di Jacquie Aiche in oro e diamanti
Orecchino di Jacquie Aiche in oro e diamanti
Un braccialetto d'oro con foglie di cannabis, spesso scambiato per stelle, di Established
Un braccialetto d’oro con foglie di cannabis, spesso scambiato per stelle, di Established
Le collane della collezioen Stoned di Sapphire Collective
Stoned collection by Sapphire Collective
Orecchini di Brent Neale Winston in oro, malachite, diamanti
Orecchini di Brent Neale Winston in oro, malachite, diamanti
Orecchini di Brent Neale Winston in oro, malachite, zaffiri, tormalina
Orecchini di Brent Neale Winston in oro, malachite, zaffiri, tormalina

Ana Khouri, imagination to power

Brazilian fantasy, American concreteness: that’s why they like Ana Khouri jewels ♦

Ana Khouri, born in San Paolo, based in New York, the city design. Brazil is for decades been a hotbed from which come jewelers global quality. And Ana Khouri, the daughter of an engineer and a pianist, has successfully combined the grace of music with mathematical rigor. The result is a mixture of fantasy and simplicity, yet luxurious. Her jewels have been worn by Emma Stone, Lupita Nyong’o, Liberty Ross, Rihanna, Isabeli Fontana, Emma Watson, Alicia Vikander, Miley Cyrus, Lady Gaga, Michelle Obama, Glenn Close, Sara Paulson, Karlie Kloss, Claire Foy, Emily Blunt and Jennifer Lawrence.

Phillipa Diamond ring
Phillipa Diamond ring

Given also that the designer studied sculpture at the Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado in his hometown, it’s simplest to say that its jewels are extremely three-dimensional shapes. Never flat shapes, despite the search for essential forms. In New York, the enterprising young Brazilian has also studied at the Gemological Institute of America then moved to London to graduate from Central Saint Martins. In short, she pocketed the better curriculum for a jeweler. The result, her jewels, are appreciated by a large number of celebrity. You see why in these pictures: earcuff large diamond-studded rings that twist as bent by the wind, earrings from the elusive form of small cones. To mark as a favorite.

Ana Khouri
Ana Khouri
Gold Maia diamond & 18kt yellow and white gold ring
Gold Maia diamond & 18kt yellow and white gold ring
Row ring, con pavé di smeraldi
Row ring, with emerald pavé
Choker in oro 18 carati e smeraldo
Choker in 18K gold and emerald
Row earrings, con pavé di smeraldi
Row earrings, with emerald pavé
Orecchino con pavé di diamanti e smeraldo
Earring with pavé diamonds and emerald

The links of Salima Thakker

Salima Thakker, perfect example of cultures that meet: the designer was born and works in Antwerp, an Indian father and a Belgian mother. Antwerp is the European capital of diamonds and jewels were an irresistible temptation for Salima Thakker, moreover to join with the world of art: she studied at the Royal Academy in Antwerp and earned her Master’s degree at the Royal College of Art in London, where she consolidated his profession and passion for design. So much so that she later became a teacher at the Academy of Fine Arts, with which she still collaborates. But her jewelry house came after a collaboration with Damiani, in Milan, about twenty years ago.

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti navette e tormalina Paraiba
Earrings in white gold, navette diamonds and Paraiba tourmaline

An experience that helped her to open her workshop and shop in Antwerp, making the jewels herself. The designer describes her work as the result of an intertwining, a shared culture between different ethnic origins, which are a fusion of world culture. She uses only ethically traceable stones, gems and diamonds, and her jewelry is now sold worldwide, including New York, Hong Kong and Antwerp.

Collana in oro 18 carati e argento
Necklace in 18 carat gold and silver
Anello Labyrinth con peridoto
Labyrinth ring with peridot
Anello eternity in oro giallo e diamanti
Eternity ring in yellow gold and diamonds
Anello in oro rosa con tormaline
Rose gold ring with tourmalines
Bracciale in oro giallo 18 carati
18K yellow gold bracelet
Bracciale in oro giallo 18 carati e citrini
Bracelet in 18K yellow gold and citrines
Bracciale in oro giallo 18 carati e argento sterling
Bracelet in 18K yellow gold and sterling silver
Orecchini in oro bianco e rosa, con morganite e acquamarina
Earrings in white and pink gold, with morganite and aquamarine

Millefiori silver with Giovanni Raspini

Millefiori collection by Giovanni Raspini.

Flower necklaces were, arguably, the first jewel-like female accessory in the dawn of humanity. And today’s jewelry often does not deviate too much from that ancient typology, even if the collections of earrings, rings or necklaces are made with noble metals, instead of simple flowers collected in the meadows and intertwined. An example is the Millefiori collection by Giovanni Raspini. Of course, the flowers are the inspiration, while the jewels idealize the concept with the proposal of silver jewels in the usual style of the Tuscan company.

Pendente Millefiori in argento
Millefiori silver pendant

The Millefiori collection is made with tiny flowers that form a texture on circular bases of burnished silver. The surface of the jewels is made more brilliant thanks to a diamond-plating process, a metal working technique that gives a shimmering effect in contrast with the shadows of the burnished base. The Millefiori collection is declined in three necklaces, two bracelets, two rings and three earrings.

Orecchini a bottone Millefiori
Millefiori stud earrings
Bracciale piccolo in argento
Small bracelet in silver
Anello a doppia banda in argento brunito
Double band ring in burnished silver
Anello a banda in argento brunito
Band ring in burnished silver
Orecchini in argento brunito
Burnished silver earrings
Orecchini a cerchio Millefiori
Millefiori hoop earrings
Collana Lunga Millefiori
Silver burnished necklace Millefiori  
Anello a doppia banda in argento brunito
Silver necklace Millefiori

Sea version sequins with Chantecler

Wear sequins at the seaside? Not exactly the ideal kind of match. But wearing Chantecler jewels, but it’s better not on the beach, is another thing. The Maison of Capri has the Paillettes line among its collections, with a version that seems suitable to be worn in an elegant seaside resort. It is a series of jewels that are part of the collection, characterized by the use of a pavé of deep blue sapphires, which are combined with 18-karat yellow gold. The jewels present the precious stones on one side and the Chantecler logo, the stylized gold rooster, on the lower surface. In some cases the jewels have a touch of sea blue enamel.

Collana in oro e zaffiri blu della collezione Paillettes
Necklace in gold and blue sapphires from the Paillettes collection

The jewels, for example the bracelets, also hide a titanium core, to preserve the flexibility and non-deformability of the metal. The design of the collection is made up of many round elements, which in the case of the bracelets are proposed in sequence. A style that recalls, in fact, the shape of the sequins.

Anello in oro, smalto e zaffiri
Ring in gold, enamel and sapphires
Bracciale flessibile in oro giallo e zaffiri blu
Flexible bracelet in yellow gold and blue sapphires
Collana con pendente fronte e retro
Necklace with front and back pendant
Orecchini a bottone in oro giallo e zaffiri
Yellow gold and sapphire stud earrings

Vintage jewelry guide

Vintage jewelry are liked more and more, but before choosing them you need to know their characteristics well. Here are the advice of the gemologist of the Catawiki online auction house ♦

What vintage ring choose? She will like it? Or: how to let him know what I like? The first rule is to go on the classic. The second, is to follow the trend. And, in this key, there’s the advice of the of Catawiki, an online auctions company. According over the company, there would be (better to use the conditional) an increase in the purchase of antique rings. Could be. But, in any case, the rings in a style of yesteryear have always had estimators and admirers.

Collana vittoriana con diamanti. Prezzo: 28.000 dollari
Collana vittoriana con diamanti. Prezzo: 28.000 dollari

The auction house, therefore, has seen fit to ask Deborah Mazza, gemologist and herald of Catawiki, a comment: “Over the past decade there has been a significant change compared to what users are looking for when choosing a engagement ring. The trends show a move away from the classic-style rings, like the solitary bought in upscale jewelers, and now you try something that does not fall in the ordinary, why the vintage rings have become very popular and in demand. But this implies having to do a search to select an object and vintage, to avoid that the future remains disappointed bride, you have to consult a gemologist, who can guarantee the quality and the ring came from. Everything else depends on personal taste.”

Spilla vittoriana in alluminio annerito e jet-Whitby
Spilla vittoriana in alluminio annerito e jet-Whitby (giaietto), un mineraloide di origine vegetale

Adds Louise Baltruschat Hollis, head of the known site for weddings Whimsical Wonderland Weddings: “For some couples, marriage is undoubtedly the most important day of their lives. For this, it’s no wonder that everything is being done to make this day memorable. Today’s brides are opting for something custom, chic festival ceremonies in the woods, and this desire to have something unique also depends on the choice of ring. ”
So here’s a brief guide to the rings in the style of the past.
Victorian. It is a ring for those who love the colors. Very often, in fact, the Victorian ring mount colored gemstones rings including garnets, emeralds and sapphires, why the rings of this time period are the ideal choice when looking for an alternative to the classic solitaire diamond. “Typically, when you opt for colored gemstones, there is a tendency to choose rings with sapphire due to its wear resistance, and it was been Kate Middleton to launch this trend” continues the gemologist. “For those looking for something unusual but colorful and durable, however, I would suggest finding a ruby. Rubies have an incredible strength, second only to diamonds and half the price, so it is no surprise that there has been a sharp increase in demand.”

Anello vittoriano in oro e diamanti
Anello vittoriano in oro e diamanti

Art Nouveau. They are the antithesis to the simplicity of a traditional solitaire. The Art Nouveau-style rings are characterized by their shape. A native of the early twentieth century, the Art Nouveau style is known for intricate designs and rich in details and curves, making a bold choice for brides. Are rich in history and romance have details. Often they possess many grafted colored stones in a delicate style but complex.

Il classico Trinity di Cartier, in oro e diamanti. È nato nel 1924 ed è ancora prodotto
Il classico Trinity di Cartier, in oro e diamanti. È nato nel 1924 ed è ancora prodotto

Art Deco. This style has gained popularity in the twenties and thirties, with designs are characterized by a sharp angles and geometric style that represent a break with the previous period style. They are back in fashion thanks to movies as The Great Gatsby.

Anello Art Deco in platino, diamanti e onice
Anello Art Deco in platino, diamanti e onice

Antique Tiffany & Co. For some women who only want excellence, the only choice is a vintage Tiffany & Co. The American house produces engagement rings since 1837, and although they tend to have a classical style by buying a vintage piece can ensure a unique touch to feel out of the ordinary and wear a piece of history.

Il classico anello in oro bianco e tre diamanti di Tiffany & co.
Il classico anello in oro bianco e tre diamanti di Tiffany & co.
Spilla a forma di farfalla con diamanti e perle, di epoca vittoriana
Spilla a forma di farfalla con diamanti e perle, di epoca vittoriana
Tiara e collana vittoriana venduta da Christie's
Tiara e collana vittoriana venduta da Christie’s
Spilla di René Lalique, con smalto e crisoprasio
Spilla di René Lalique, con smalto e crisoprasio
Anello Art Nouveau con lucertola e uccello, in oro e opale
Anello Art Nouveau con lucertola e uccello, in oro e opale
Bracciale Art Déco con diamanti e rubini di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1940
Bracciale Art Déco con diamanti e rubini di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1940
Anello art déco con diamanti
Anello art déco con diamanti
Particolare di un bracciale Art Deco di Cartier, con perle con zaffiri e diamanti
Particolare di un bracciale Art Deco di Cartier, con perle con zaffiri e diamanti

If the ring is rainbow

Jewelers offering marriage rings for people of the same sex are on the rise. And men prefer rings made in … ♦

Do you remember Tiffany’s same sex ring campaign ? It’s been all over the newspapers, often with appreciative headlines and even with a hint of cynicism: a step forward for marriage rights or a step forward for sales? In fact, the advertisment has not only expanded this market segment, but actually has identified a new trend: the engagement ring from man to man or woman to woman. Of course, this is a niche, but is growing: for example, legalising gay marriage, in England, Scotland and Wales in 2014, has increased the demand for wedding bands.

Matrimonio gay
Rainbow wedding

And, in fact, if once sales are focused on informal rings as a symbol of a private commitment, now there is a shift to something more institutional, a choice more considered and custom made. Men are looking for something less flashy, but not necessarily less precious: diamonds, pink gold palladium and titanium are at the top of the charts. Customization is the key to win the English customers, who are also interested in the finish, which is polished, matt or brushed finish is not important, but they want to contribute to the design ring. Which brings greater creativity, although jewelers facing so much talent always give the same advice: because it’s supposed to last several years the band should follow personal taste rather than the latest trend.

La firma del registro
The signature on the marriage register

In a female marriage, for now, a trend closer to faith seems to prevail, to the classic wedding ring, a gold circle that symbolizes the union between two people. Even with small variations, for example, with a small diamond set inside the metal band. But, essentially, women seem to prefer more sobriety. It is also an aesthetic question: men have on average larger hands and, therefore, even the rings are larger and are more visible.

Cerimonia di matrimonio gay al femminile
Female wedding ceremony

Although same-sex marriages are now permitted in a large number of countries, it does not seem that a common formula has been codified regarding the jewels to wear, starting with rings. At the moment, in short, a simple transposition of the characteristics for wedding rings used by heterosexual couples prevails. It’s the tradition. But it is said that in the near future the rings may take on a different appearance: it is a universe that is still unexplored.

Matrimonio gay
Scenes from a wedding

Les Bonbons for leBebé

New collection by leBebé, the jewelery brand that has always been characterized by the unmistakable silhouettes of boys and girls applied to rings, earrings or pendants. On the occasion of the summer, leBebé jewels broaden the proposal with the introduction of color. The collection is called Les Bonbons, i.e. candies in French, which adds a playful reference that fits well with jewels intended above all for new mothers. The 9-karat white and yellow gold are combined with baguette-cut blue topaz, aquamarine, purple navette-cut amethyst and pink tourmalines.

Collana con sagoma bimbo in oro bianco 9kt con diamante, topazi azzurri taglio baguette e acquamarine
Necklace with baby silhouette in 9kt white gold with diamond, baguette-cut blue topaz and aquamarine

Not only that: the leBebè boy and girl silhouettes are embellished in the center with a small diamond. another novelty concerns the use of the two-finger ring for the first time. The jewels of the Les Bonbons collection are intended for young and dynamic mothers, as can be understood from the new shot of the Play! in which mother and daughter have fun on board the skate.

Anello con sagoma bimba in oro giallo 9kt con diamante, ametista viola taglio navette e tormalina rosa
Ring with girl silhouette in 9kt yellow gold with diamond, navette-cut purple amethyst and pink tourmaline
Anello due dita con sagoma bimba in oro giallo 9kt con diamante, ametista viola taglio navette e tormalina rosa
Two fingers ring with girl shape in 9kt yellow gold with diamond, navette cut violet amethyst and pink tourmaline
Anello due dita con sagoma bimbo in oro bianco 9kt con diamante, topazio azzurro taglio baguette e acquamarina
Two-finger ring with baby silhouette in 9kt white gold with diamond, baguette-cut blue topaz and aquamarine
Anello con sagoma bimbo in oro bianco 9kt con diamante, topazio azzurro taglio baguette e acquamarina
9kt white gold baby silhouette ring with diamond, baguette cut blue topaz and aquamarine

The Gringoire jewels

The jewels of the French Maison Gringoire, a Parisian with a century and a half of history ♦ ︎
“I wrote silences, nights, I noticed the inexpressible, I stared dizzy.” While Arthur Rimbaud, one of the great French poets of the late nineteenth century, wrote these words, in Paris at number 79 of rue de Turbigo, in Paris, a new brand of jewelry was born. It was founded in 1880 by Achille Hourdequin. After the founder’s sudden death in 1942, Gérard Gringoire, the son-in-law, took over the company, along with his wife, Edith Hourdequin. The company has been successful.

Anello in oro bianco e topazio blu
Ring in white gold and blue topaz

Today around 500 jewelers in France distribute the H. Gringoire brand. Not only that: the Maison’s jewels are also distributed in Southeast Asia, the Middle East and the United States. After almost a century and a half, in short, Gringoire Joaillier is still a Maison that focuses on high quality jewelry, often with large colored stones, such as amethysts, topazes and citrines, surrounded by diamonds.

Anello con ametista rosa e diamanti, oro 18 carati
Ring with pink amethyst and diamonds, 18K gold
Anello con zaffiri rosa e diamanti, oro 18 carati
Ring with pink sapphires and diamonds, 18K gold
Anello con rubino e diamanti, oro 18 carati
Ruby and diamond ring, 18K gold
Anello con topazio blu e diamanti, collezione Intemporelle
Ring with blue topaz and diamonds, Intemporelle collection
pendente con topazio blu e diamanti, collezione Intemporelle
Pendant with blue topaz and diamonds, Intemporelle collection

The refined design of Paola Brussino

There are those who limit themselves to re-proposing small variations of the same subject. And who, like Paola Brussino, sets out on unexplored roads. Choice of materials and extraordinarily effective design constitute the map of the Turin architect and designer, who in her long career has collaborated with international jewelery brands and the most prestigious niche maisons. Her bio states that her work has been exhibited in various European countries, Qatar, Japan, Russia and the United States. After having lived for a long time in Geneva, she returned to Italy in 2012 and began a path of pure research.

Orecchino in zirconio con tsavorite e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Zircon earring with tsavorite and diamonds. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

One of the aspects that characterize Paola Brussino’s jewels is the choice to work with elements such as carbon, titanium, zirconium and corian in high jewellery. Zirconium, for example, is a metal with an appearance reminiscent of titanium. It is mostly made from zircon and is very resistant to corrosion. It is used in nuclear plants and, now, also in the designer’s rings and earrings.

Orecchini con zaffiri rosa La Rose de Edith
La Rose de Edith pink sapphire earrings

Furthermore, the roots that sink into design and architecture have directed Paola Brussino’s jewelery towards jewels that express rigor and fantasy at the same time, lightness and luxury, but with defined and pleasant, natural and elegant geometries.

Anello con zpinello blu cobalto e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Cobalt blue spinel and diamond ring. Copyright: Gioiellis.com
Anello con due diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with two diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Paola Brussino. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Paola Brussino. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Piero Milano without borders

Who knows why there are jewelers who manage to build a legend around their collections and others, like the Piedmontese brand Piero Milano, who are just as good, but are less bold in communicating it. Sometimes marketing strategies are a little mysterious. Just as it is hard to understand that a brand like Piero Milano is appreciated in stores abroad, has many admirers, but has less recognition in the collective image.

Collezione Eden, anello in oro bianco e full pavé di diamanti
Eden collection, ring in white gold and full pavé diamonds

Yet the Valencian company founded half a century ago by Piero Milano and Luigi Benzi has nothing to envy to many other Maisons that enjoy (sometimes undeserved) celebrity. All right, Piero Milano boasts a good market success, thanks to the ability to interpret the classic jewel, as is the tradition of the goldsmiths of that Piedmontese province. Gold, platinum, diamonds, precious and semi-precious stones: nothing is missing in the vast catalog of proposals, ranging from high jewelery to easy to wear.

Anello flessibile in oro giallo e diamanti della collezione Goa
Flexible ring in yellow gold and diamonds from the Goa collection
Orecchini in oro rosa e diamanti, collezione Goa
Earrings in pink gold and diamonds, Goa collection
Orecchini in oro bianco diamanti e zaffiri realizzati con la tecnica invisible setting
Earrings in white gold, diamonds and sapphires made with the invisible setting technique
Anello in oro rosa con diamanti
Rose gold ring with diamonds
Collana con pendente in oro bianco, diamanti e rubini
Necklace with pendant in white gold, diamonds and rubies

Alviero Martini 1st Class in Cape Town

The maps of Alviero Martini 1A Classe, the Milanese brand that became famous for the maps printed on bags and suitcases, presents a new collection of fashion jewelry: Long Street. The jewels are made entirely of 925 silver in the natural or gold-plated version. The metal also houses leather inserts with the Geo Map print that distinguishes the Maison. The choice of name reflects the connection with the geographical theme and continues the series of collections inspired by famous places. Specifically, Long Street is a tourist street in the heart of Cape Town, South Africa, where there are ethnic style shops and bookshops and clubs with an international flair.

Collana in argento, cubic zirconia, inserto Geo Map in pelle
Necklace in silver, cubic zirconia, Geo Map insert in leather

The collection includes necklaces, bracelets and rings. The necklaces use the round silver pendant covered in leather with the Geo Map print together with cubic zirconia. The pendants are available both in the 925 silver version (99 euros) and in yellow gold plated silver (109 euros). There is also a maxi version in silver with a bilière-type chain (made up of small spheres) of cubic zirconia with Geo Map printed leather (179 euros). The two bracelets are also composed of spheres with a central Geo Map pendant in 925 silver (109 euros) or yellow gold plated (119 euros). Finally, Long Street includes an adjustable ring (109 euros).

Anello in argento, cubic zirconia, pelle
Silver ring, cubic zirconia, leather
Bracciale in argento, cubic zirconia, pelle
Bracelet in silver, cubic zirconia, leather

Smarties for Mattioli

The commonly known Smarties are small sugar-coated chocolate sweets of various colors. But now Smarties are also high-end jewels by Mattioli. They are not eaten, but worn. However, the new Smarties collection of the Turin brand recalls the shape of the homonymous colored chocolates covered with sugar icing, launched by Rowntree Mackintosh in 1937 and produced by Nestlé since 1988. But, to tell the truth, even if the name and the appearance of the jewels may recall a candy, the collection is inspired by refined architectures of the past. In any case, the jewels are handcrafted in 18K rose gold.

Collana in oro rosa e topazi champagne
Necklace in rose gold and champagne topaz

But, above all, they are composed of champagne topaz stones cut in a round shape like a brilliant. Each jewel is made up of numerous gems. For example, the ring takes at least a dozen. Necklace and bracelet many more. The stones are mobile, attached to the jewelry, but not set in a static crown. By moving the hand wearing the ring, for example, the topaz stones also swing.

Bracciale in oro rosa e topazi champagne
Rose gold and champagne topaz bracelet
Anello in oro rosa e topazi champagne
Rose gold and champagne topaz ring
Collana della collezione Smarties
Rose gold and champagne topaz necklace
Licia Mattioli. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Licia Mattioli. Copyright: gioiellis.com

History of the Cartier Panther

History of the Cartier Panther, the most famous icon of the great French Maison. Here are all the things to know about the precious Panthère

Why do jewels (and Cartier watches) often use the Panther icon, which has become the sign of some famous collections? The charm of the Panthère originates in 1914, with a painting. At that time, as the expert Sabrina Doerr said, the Parisian company was run by Louis, Jacques, and Pierre Cartier (the Maison was founded in 1847 by his grandfather, Louis-François Cartier).

A brooch from the Panthère series by Cartier with yellow diamonds, onyx and emeralds
A brooch from the Panthère series by Cartier with yellow diamonds, onyx and emeralds

That year Louis asked French painter George Barbier to create a watercolor painting to use as an invitation to a jewelry exhibition. La Dame à la Panthère depicts an elegantly dressed woman with a panther at her feet. The small painting was so successful that from that moment Cartier started using the feline design.

George Barbier, «La Dame à la Panthère»
George Barbier, «La Dame à la Panthère»

According to Geo Cramer, an expert at Cartier, “at the beginning of the twentieth century, big cats were in vogue to express femininity: these animals were seen as the highest expression of women”. Characters who animated Parisian nights, such as the Marquise Luisa Casati, who had adopted cheetahs in her house in Venice (now home to the Guggenheim), confirm the fascination that super cats exerted in high society. In any case, in 1914 it marks Cartier’s first panther: a watch that has a speckled surface. The panther was completely depicted for the first time on a beauty case owned by Jeanne Toussaint, director of Cartier jewelry since 1933, considered the Coco Chanel of jewelry.

Aquamarine, diamond e perle, Panthère de Cartier, bracelet
Aquamarine, diamond e perle, Panthère de Cartier, bracelet

A working relationship between Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976) and Louis Cartier began when she was 31. Cartier had been awed by his beauty, carefree spirit, and aura of grandeur. Toussaint played an important role in making the Panthère de Cartier collection the icon it has become, so much so that she herself has been nicknamed La Panthère. In 1927, a designer named Peter Lemarchand joined the Cartier team. Very skilled, he observed the panthers at the zoo until, in collaboration with Toussaint, he was able to translate them into designs for making jewelry. Lemarchand played an important role in making the panther the legend it is today. In this period the first brooches depicting animals appear.

Cartier, colored sapphire, multi gem and diamond Panthère ring
Cartier, colored sapphire, multi gem and diamond Panthère ring

Over the years, many celebrities and high society figures have become admirers of the Panthère de Cartier collection. Actresses such as the Mexican Maria Felix, the American heiress Barbara Hutton, or the Duchess of Windsor, were among the fans of the panthers of the Parisian Maison. In 1948, for example, Wallis Simpson’s third husband, Prince Edward, Duke of Windsor, asked Cartier to create a three-dimensional panther brooch for his wife. The result is a jewel in yellow gold dotted with black enamel with an emerald-cut cabochon. This brooch also marked a milestone in the history of the Panthère de Cartier: it was the first time the feline was represented in three dimensions. A year later, in 1949, the Windsors bought another three-dimensional panther brooch, this time made with diamonds and onyx set in platinum, on a 152-carat sapphire cabochon. Not only that: the Duchess of Windsor bought other pieces from the Pantera collection in the following years.

Classic Panthère in gold, diamonds, platinum, onyx, emerald by Cartier
Classic Panthère in gold, diamonds, platinum, onyx, emerald by Cartier

Daisy Fellowes, socialite, heiress, editor of the American fashion magazine Harper Bazaar, was also a fan of the Cartier panther: in her time she bought a diamond and sapphire brooch, with the feline in the position of the sheep that symbolizes order. chivalrous of the Golden Fleece. In 1958, the Panther conquered Princess Nina Aga Khan (Nina Dyer, an Anglo-Indian model married to Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan). The Aga Khan purchased several elements of the Panthère de Cartier collection, including a brooch, a bracelet with panther-shaped ends, and a fluted gold bracelet designed with elements that can be transformed into earrings. And the story still continues. In 2014 Cartier celebrated 100 years of Panthère de Cartier with a series of 56 pieces of jewelery and an exhibition in Paris, at the Grand Palais.

Cartier Panthere clip broche. White gold, diamonds, onyx, emerald
Cartier Panthere clip brooch. White gold, diamonds, onyx, emerald
Panthère brooch in yellow gold, diamonds, onyx, emeralds
Panthère brooch in yellow gold, diamonds, onyx, emeralds
Cartier Panthere Tropical wristwatch
Cartier Panthere Tropical wristwatch
Collier Panthere, yellow gold, emerald
Collier Panthere, yellow gold, emerald
Resonances Panthere bracelet, 18K white gold, rubellites, emeralds, onyx and diamonds
Resonances Panthere bracelet, 18K white gold, rubellites, emeralds, onyx and diamonds
Anne Hathaway wears a Panthère bracelet by Cartier
Anne Hathaway wears a Panthère bracelet by Cartier
Jeanne Toussaint
Jeanne Toussaint

In Milan in Montenapo with Alviero Martini 1st Class

The journey with Alviero Martini 1A Classe continues. The fashion and accessories brand, which became famous for its bags decorated with maps, has also launched jewelery lines inspired by famous places around the world. This time the place chosen is the same city that saw the birth of the brand. The jewelry line is called Montenapo, short for via Monte Napoleone, the luxury shopping street in the city. The jewels are made of 925 silver and the dominant motif of the jewels is the 1A Classe lettering, with single letters that become a decorative element with a decisive and rigorous style.

Alviero Martini 1a Classe, dettaglio della collana
Alviero Martini 1a Classe, detail of the necklace

All the jewels of the Montenapo collection, necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings, are available in the silver version or with yellow gold plating. The necklaces in the collection are 40 cm long and have a personalized closure. They are made up of a light chain and a central motif, with single letters forming the word 1 Classe, in the silver version (89 euros) and in the yellow gold-plated silver version (99 euros).

Bracciale rigido in argento placcato oro
Bangle in gold plated silver

The two bracelet models are also available both in the silver version (49 euros) and with yellow gold plating (59 euros). The bangle model, in 925 silver and with an adjustable size, is the masterpiece of the collection. The 1A Classe lettering is repeated three times and becomes real logomania (239 euros). The rings are adjustable in two sizes, in the silver version (39 euros) and in yellow gold-plated silver (49 euros). Finally, the earrings are offered in two versions (49 euros or 59 euros).

Anello Montenapo in argento
Montenapo ring in silver
Orecchini in argento
Silver earrings
Bracciale a catena in argento
Silver bracelet

Nature seen through Nicholas Varney’s eyes

The jewels of great design by Nicholas Varney, one of the top jewels of the moment ♦

Among the designers who in recent years have reached quotations at the top there is Nicholas Varney. Being born in a rich environment, also from an aesthetic point of view, it meant something in his training. The father of Nicholas, in fact, is the owner of Dorothy Draper, who is an interior designer company in New York considered very anti-minimalist. He, however, decided to break away from the family and living in Palm Beach. But the taste for the richness of the elements that make up something, remained.

Organic forms, like fish and plants, but also abstract and geometric shapes characterize its jewels.

Set di orecchini e spilla a forma di nespola in oro e diamanti fancy
Set of earrings and medlar-shaped brooch in gold and fancy diamonds

He do not works about environments, luxurious homes of wealthy Americans, but he is dedicated to the richness as composite jewelry, with the choice of unusual precious and semi precious stones. To be clear: her jewelry can cost several tens of thousands of dollars. They are, in short, for an audience of connoisseurs, who loves the colors, the combinations and metaphors. One of favorite subject of Nicholas Varney is the sea, but also the waters of the Mississippi River, Colorado. Surrounded for years by floral wallpaper and plush furnishings, also he has that typically American taste to mix a bit ‘styles. Eclecticism? It depends on your point of view. Here are some examples of his work.

Orecchini in oro giallo e cacholong
Earrings in yellow gold and cacholong
Anello in oro giallo e acquamarina
Yellow gold and aquamarine ring
Anello in legno, oro e acquamarina
Wood, gold and aquamarine ring
Anello con smeraldo e diamanti
Emerald and diamond ring
Anelli con perle naturali di colore diverso
Rings with natural pearls of different colors
Orecchini con perle e diamanti
Earrings with pearls and diamonds 

New 925 Kulto rings with baguette stones

New simple variant of rings signed Kulto 925 which, as the brand number indicates, are made of silver. This time Kulto 925 offers new rings that have baguette-cut stones as their distinguishing feature, i.e. with an elongated rectangular surface. Each ring mounts three stones, white or colored cubic zirconia. The metal, on the other hand, is silver, even in the version with a yellow gold finish.
Kulto 925 rhodium-plated 925 silver rings can use white, blue, green or yellow colored stones. For the version of the rings in 925 silver with a yellow gold finish, Kulto 925 combines white and light green zircons (price 39 euros).

Anello in argento rodiato e cubic zirconia bianchi
Ring in rhodium-plated silver and white cubic zirconia
Anello in argento rodiato con finitura oro e cubic zirconia bianchi
Rhodium plated silver ring with gold finish and white cubic zirconia
Anello in argento rodiato e cubic zirconia blu
Ring in rhodium-plated silver and blue cubic zirconia

Thais Bernardes, the Brazil studied Italy

Thais Bernardes, the jewels of Brazil that have a little bit of Italy ♦ ︎

There are many Brazilian citizens of Italian origin. But there are also designers who simply take an example from Italians, those who work in jewelry. This is the case of Thais Bernardes, who says: “I learned from the Italians to value details and invest in quality. My jewels follow a contemporary style for women who want, at the same time, to dictate fashion with elegance and lightness “.

Collana di Thais Bernardes indossata
Collana di Thais Bernardes indossata

The founder of the brand that has her name, among other things, was born and grew up in Minas Gerais, the place that is the largest producer of natural gemstones among the Brazilian states.

And growing in contact with the stones for jewelry gave her a decisive imprinting. Although she started her career as a model. Then, however, she studied gemology and jewelry design, with a specialization in Fashion Brand Management in Milan. Finally, in 2015 she founded the brand Thais Bernardes, now also at VicenzaOro September. Her jewels are all made of silver, gold and precious and semi-precious stones, “where the Italian workforce combined with the Brazilian tradition creates inimitable objects”.

Choker con pappagallo, argento e cubic zirconia
Choker with parrot, silver and cubic zirconia
Anello in argento, smalto e zirconia cubica
Ring in silver, enamel and cubic zirconia
Anello in argento, rodiato o placcato oro e zirconia cubica
Ring in silver, rhodium plated or gold plated and cubic zirconia
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con smalto verde e zaffiro
18K yellow gold ring with green enamel and sapphire
Orecchini in oro rosa 9 carati con smalto verde e zaffiro giallo
Earrings in 9 carat rose gold with green enamel and yellow sapphire
Anello in oro rosa 9 carati con smalto nero e peridoto
Ring in 9 carat rose gold with black enamel and peridot

Faidee’s dream rubies


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Roop Chand Lunia. It may be that this name means nothing to you. Yet he is linked to the world of jewelry: Roop Chand Lunia, born in 1895, he is considered the king of the Burmese ruby. It was he, who passed away in 1960, who founded Faidee, a high-end jewelery house specializing in rubies. Roop Chand Lunia was a gemstone trader, known for his collection of rare and exceptional stones. But he especially fell in love with the red Burmese gem, one of the rarest and most valuable. For this reason, the company founded by Roop Chand Lunia is called Faidee, a name that means good luster, shining, in the Thai language. Faidee specializes in one stone, the ruby: it offers the most colorful, impressive and, of course, expensive gems.

Collana con un motivo a farfalla composta da 30 rubini taglio ovale e diamanti pera e marquise
Collana con un motivo a farfalla composta da 30 rubini taglio ovale e diamanti pera e marquise

The scarcity and rarity of Burmese Pigeon’s Blood rubies have made them one of the most sought-after gemstones in the world. Now in its fourth generation, Faidee therefore offers great jewels with splendid rubies and diamonds. The descendant of the founder, Rajeev, for much of his youth learned to cut and classify diamonds to continue his great-grandfather’s legendary legacy. Today Rajeev guides the skilled craftsmen of Faidee in the processing of the rough stones up to the final polishing.

Anello con rubino di forma ovale di 10,05 carati e diamanti
Anello con rubino di forma ovale di 10,05 carati e diamanti
Collier con 32 rubini taglio cuscino alternati a diamanti
Collier con 32 rubini taglio cuscino alternati a diamanti
Anello con rubino e diamanti di James W. Currens per Faidee
Anello con rubino e diamanti di James W. Currens per Faidee
Bracciale a cinque fila com 60 rubini a forma ottagonale e diamanti baguette e quadrati
Bracciale a cinque fila com 60 rubini a forma ottagonale e diamanti baguette e quadrati
Ring with rubies and diamonds
Ring with rubies and diamonds
Bracciale con 39 rubini taglio cuscino e diamanti
Bracciale con 39 rubini taglio cuscino e diamanti







Fabrizio Riva, design without end

Milan, the capital of the design and point to start Fabrizio Riva, long-time designers and not just jewelry. He has indeed worked for designers as well as for art projects and even cured the inclusion of jewelry at a resort in Dubai. Today his creativity is channeled into Estro Studio, also in the Lombard town. In short, an eclectic Italian, perhaps with the creativity that characterized the Renaissance and the Humanism. In his lengthy curriculum, there are collaboration with Giancarlo Montebello and Niki de Saint Phalle for a jewelry collection, with Gabriele de Vecchi to silver accessories, with Redwall Group for jewelry to an accessory bags and Eleonora Fiorani for a project of anthropology and semiotics through the language of jewelry.

Anello Nodo in oro bianco e diamanti
Knot ring, white gold and diamonds

Again: he designed jewels and watches with Nina Ricci, care the edition of Notebook trends Arabia to the World Gold Council, coordinates for the Bliss by Damiani jewelry line, then he created a collection of jewelry for wedding dresses for the fashion designer Elisabetta Polignano, and to redesign jewelry crafted by African production … On its website the list of his works is longer and more detailed. Here, however, we show some jewels of his collection: rings and earrings made with surfaces in gold, often oxidized, and pavé with white and colored diamonds, with the exception of some precious stone, like emeralds. Personal style there is everything, the quality also.

Anelli con acquamarina e prenite
Rings with aquamarine and prenite
Anello con tanzanite a goccia e zaffiri blu
Ring with teardrop tanzanite and blue sapphires
Orecchini a bottone in oro, diamanti bianchi e neri
Stud earrings in gold, white and black diamonds
Orecchini di Fabrizio Riva in oro bianco e diamanti brown e ice
Earrings by Fabrizio Riva in white gold and brown and ice diamonds
Orecchini in oro bianco ossidato 18 carati, diamanti verdi e brown
Earrings in 18K oxidized white gold, green and brown diamonds
Anello in oro bianco ossidato 18 carati, diamanti verdi, bianchi e brown, smeraldo
Ring in 18k oxidized white gold, green, white and brown diamonds, emerald