Vivienne Becker

Five new designers of the GemGeneve Vivarium

Young people, still not very well known, with a marked creative sense: this is the identikit of the designers present in the Vivarium area of GemGèneve, a space that is being renewed for the edition of the event scheduled at the Palaexpo in Geneva (11-14 May). Also this Vivarium edition has been entrusted to Vivienne Becker, one of the best experts in the world of jewellery, who has identified five emerging designers, four of which are making their debut. The jewels proposed by the participants were very different from each other, which we will discuss in more detail in other articles.

Collana Quando la mezzanotte sboccia, di Natasha Wightman
Collana Quando la mezzanotte sboccia, di Natasha Wightman

Natasha Wightman presents her first NVW collection at the Designer Vivarium at GemGenève. She is a British artist-jeweler, she uses jewels to tell the stories that most fascinate her: stories of the unexpected, British fauna (in particular the crow), nature, folklore. Leen Heyne is another participant in the Vivarium: he is a Dutch goldsmith and jeweler who offers conceptual jewels. Graduated from the Academy of Goldsmith Arts in Schoonhaven, Leen creates the jewels in his atelier in Tilburg, north of Eindhoven, in the province of Brabant. At GemGenève, Leen is presenting a series of new creations, centered around her experimental work with steel and exhibited for the first time. Designer-jeweler Lia Lam launched her brand just over a year ago, with four collections: Beam, Lagom, Unity and Passepartout, each based on a concept, a story, an emotional experience, synthesized in a pure form and powerful. The style is graphic and architectural, influenced by the Bauhaus movement, brutalism and modernism.
Anello in oro e diamanti di Leen Heyne
Anello in oro e diamanti di Leen Heyne

The fourth designer of the Vivarium is Oushaba, a brand launched earlier this year by three art-loving and collector friends, including Gillian Carr, general manager. The designers describe their brand as a house of sustainable art and design that breathes new life into long-abandoned materials, and their jewelry as wearable art that showcases the skills and techniques of master craftsmanship. Their principle of sustainability and circularity is encapsulated in their first innovative collection, Connection Salvaged. On the other hand, the Russian designer Elena Okutova returns to GemGèneve, who founded her own brand together with her mother Irina, in 2009. The jewels are often inspired by the Russian traditions of art and craftsmanship and in the use of enamels and colored gems, but also in tales and in Russian fairy tales. In this way he is inspired by the Russian tradition of oral storytelling, often related to the forces of nature and handed down from generation to generation.
Anello 100%% di Lia Lam
Anello 100%% di Lia Lam

Oushaba, bracciale Vestige in oro giallo 22 carati con cavo elettrico
Oushaba, bracciale Vestige in oro giallo 22 carati con cavo elettrico

Anello Peonia di Elena Okutova
Anello Peonia di Elena Okutova

Vivarium Quartet, four designer at GemGèneve




It is called Vivarium Quartet. And it is defined as a mini showcase for creators. At the next GemGèneve (3-6 November 2022), Vivienne Becker, jewel historian and curator of the Designer Vivarium of GemGenève, has selected four designer-jewelers: Alix Dumas of Mad Joaillerie, Philippe Lauras, who returns to Geneva as well as Alex Jefford, and Elena Okutova, who previously participated in the Emerging Talents review. Each of the four designers has a different style and a different story behind them. In the coming days we will explore the work of individual designers.

Anello per mignolo in oro bianco e diamanti di Mad Joaillerie
Anello per mignolo in oro bianco e diamanti di Mad Joaillerie

In short, Alix Dumas is a designer born in France, but who has also lived in Romania and Turkey, including Istanbul. She launched her own brand and in 2020 she founded Mad Joaillerie, despite her name, not a crazy decision (you can find her work here). Philippe Lauras, on the other hand, had an artistic education at the École de Joaillerie de Paris (BJOP), but he also studied gemology, design and sculptural modeling. He started working in 1980 and had the opportunity to train in two of the most famous Parisian high jewelery workshops (we wrote about he here).  Alex Jefford was born and raised in Geneva, but lives in London, where she studied fine arts at Central Saint Martins College, with a predilection for engraving and drawing: we have already talked about her work here. Elena Okutova, was born in St. Petersburg, but lives and works in Moscow with her mother Irina. Her work is deeply rooted in Russian traditions, those of craftsmanship and the use of enamels and colored gemstones.
Alex Jefford, anello in oro  giallo e bianco con diamanti
Alex Jefford, anello in oro giallo e bianco con diamanti

Elena Okutova, spilla Papyrus
Elena Okutova, spilla Papyrus

Philippe Lauras, orecchini  Impatiente, con oro rodiato e diamanti
Philippe Lauras, orecchini
Impatiente, con oro rodiato e diamanti

Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello di Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello di Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com







The designers in GemGèneve’s Vivarium




The Latin word vivarium means pond, a small basin of water. And since GemGèneve was born it has proposed its Designer Vivarium (this will be the fourth edition), curated by the jewelery historian Vivienne Becker. The idea is to bring together the work of individual particularly innovative jewelers-designers in a defined space. Since then, the Beckerian lake has seen the succession of young and old designers from all over the world. Some return, others debut. Here, for example, are those foreseen in the Designer Vivarium at the next GemGèneve (5-8 May): Aline Debusigne (Switzerland), Sean Gilson (USA), Regina Gambatesa (Italy), Saurabh Bhola (India), Oktaaf ​​(Spain), Gaelle Khouri (Lebanon), Philippe Lauras (France). Of course, we will be dedicating articles to individual participants of the Designer Vivarium in the near future.

Designer Vivarium ottobre 2021
Designer Vivarium ottobre 2021

Vivienne Becker was assisted and assisted in the selection process by Ida Faerber, daughter of one of the two founders of GemGèneve (Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah). The leitmotif for the selection is the refinement of craftsmanship and the innovative use of materials. The styles represented in the Designer Vivarium 2022, as always, are all very different from each other, and testify to the breadth, depth and versatility of expression in today’s contemporary jewelry world. The idea for a contemporary design showcase originally came from the founders of GemGenève, Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah. An important part of their mission in creating the show was to foster and nurture talent and ingenuity in today’s jewelry world, to give a voice and a platform.

Article updated on April 7. Compared to the previous version, the Russian designer Elena Okutova no longer appears, it is not known whether it is her decision (or impossibility given the geopolitical situation) or a choice of the organizers.

Vivienne Becker
Vivienne Becker
GemGèneve 2021, anello di Studio Renn. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2021, anello di Studio Renn. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com







GemGèneve Designer Vivarium is back




After announcing the return (after the pandemic break year), GemGèneve outlines the contours of the third edition (4-7 November). In particular, the organizers of the Geneva event presented the new exhibitors at the Designer Vivarium, a space reserved for the creators of fine jewelry, small boutiques often made up of a single jeweler. The Vivarium Designer is curated by Vivienne Becker with the contribution of Ida Faerber, one of the leading experts in the world of jewelery, and includes a range of extraordinarily original and innovative contemporary jewelery. A space that, in a certain sense, is an alternative to that of the rest of the exhibitors, focused on precious stones, high-end proposals from exclusive Maison and vintage jewelery.

Il PalaExpo che ospita GenGenève
Il PalaExpo che ospita GenGenève

I look for jewels that have a strong, individual point of view, a well-defined identity and a creative vision, and for a certain artisan refinement. I am looking for a sophisticated integration of concept, material and technique and perhaps above all I am looking for designers who have something to say, something new to say, through their jewels. I am looking for the creators of today who will be part of the long and rich continuum of the history of jewelry.
Vivienne Becker

Vivienne Becker. Photo: G.Maillot
Vivienne Becker. Photo: G.Maillot

Vivarium, on the other hand, offers avant-garde jewelry: an idea originally born by the founders of GemGenève, Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah, perhaps to infuse a breath of freshness that balances a very traditional event. The designers participating in this edition are Aline Debusigne (Switzerland), Regina Gambatesa (Italy), Studio Renn (India), Atelier Allure (Austria), G Suen (Great Britain), Alexandra Jefford (Great Britain), Cora Sheibani (Great Brittany), Alexander Tenzo (Russia).

Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Cora Sheibani
Cora Sheibani







More Love for Cartier

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Just this year a book was published that traces the works by Aldo Cipullo. And just this year Cartier decided to expand the historic collection created by the Italian designer with a new necklace. The collection is the famous Love, designed in 1969 by Aldo Cipullo, who was then working for Cartier. The jewel that has been combined with Cipullo’s name is the Love bracelet, composed of two simple golden arches that join together. The bracelet was successful and became an icon. Since then, the Love collection has remained in the Cartier catalog, which has renewed it year after year.

Il collier Love di Cartier
Il collier Love di Cartier

The yellow or pink gold necklace is the latest addition to a line that includes, in addition to the original bracelets, also rings and earrings, also in versions with four or ten diamonds set in the metal. The history of the collection, but also of the other jewels designed by the Italian artist is told in the book Cipullo: Making Jewelry Modern written by Vivienne Becker (Assouline, 195 euros or dollars), which recalls the story of him who starts from Naples and arrives in New York. The book naturally includes the Love collection, but also his creations for David Webb, Tiffany & Co. and, finally, the jewels produced under his own brand.
Anello Love in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Love in oro giallo e diamanti

Anello Love in oro giallo
Anello Love in oro giallo
Bracciale Love in oro giallo e 4 diamanti
Bracciale Love in oro giallo e 4 diamanti
Bracciale Love in oro bianco e 10 diamanti
Bracciale Love in oro bianco e 10 diamanti

Bracciale Love in oro rosa e 10 diamanti
Bracciale Love in oro rosa e 10 diamanti

Orecchini Love in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini Love in oro rosa e diamanti

Cipullo: Making Jewelry Modern scritto da Vivienne Becker
Cipullo: Making Jewelry Modern scritto da Vivienne Becker







Jewelry on paper for de Grisogono




The story (seen through 160 illustrations) of the Maison de Grisogono and its founder, Fawaz Gruosi ♦ ︎
“No great man lives in vain: the history of the world is just the biography of great men,” said Thomas Carlyle, a Scottish historian, essayist and philosopher who lived in the Victorian period. This principle also applies to the jewelery world. And so, here is Daring Creativity, a book written by specialist Vivienne Becker and devoted to the creator of de Grisogono, Fawaz Gruosi. A widely illustrated story that will fascinate the fans of the Maison of Geneva, attracted by the sometimes scratching fantasy of its founder.
“When it comes to exceptional stones, the secret is to identify the one that will transmit emotions, the one made for you, as if it were an extension of your being. When I create, I already know which woman will wear the jewel and how the stone will become her talisman, “Gruosi tells Vivienne Becker. Gruosi, one of the few visionary spirits in a world often too loyal to tradition, created his brand in 1993 with the first boutique in Rue du Rhône in Geneva. He immediately found his space and, above all, a soul: he has lost the characteristic minimalism of the last decade of the twentieth century and has opted for opulent, sensual, complex creations.
Grisogono’s first creation, a pair of pearls and diamond earrings tailored to begum Salima Aga Khan was already a perfect image of the taste, reachness and originality that would become the jeweler’s trademark. Characters such as Sofia Loren, Duchess Camila of Cornwall, Sharon Stone have worn the glittering models of the Maison. Since then, Gruosi continues to explore the white and black diamonds as well as unique-colored stones, inventing both classical and innovative shapes.
The volume images show the wide range of ideas, technical solutions, innovations of the Maison. With an Italian background, Gruosi manages to blend Florentine and Byzantine influences, combinations of precious stones and craftsmanship.
Daring Creativity
Assouline
Text by Vivienne Becker
28 x 35 cm, 256 pages, 160 illustrations
Isbn: 9781614285847
Price: 195 euros




Il libro Daring Creativity
Il libro Daring Creativity

Bracciale in onice e diamanti. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Bracciale in onice e diamanti. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e neri. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e neri. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Collier con diamanti bianchi e rubini. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Collier con diamanti bianchi e rubini. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Alta gioielleria de Grisogono, anello. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Alta gioielleria de Grisogono, anello. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Alta gioielleria de Grisogono, anello in oro rosa, diamanti, rubino. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Alta gioielleria de Grisogono, anello in oro rosa, diamanti, rubino. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Alta gioielleria de Grisogono, anello con diamanti e zaffiro. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Alta gioielleria de Grisogono, anello con diamanti e zaffiro. Foto di Laziz Hamani
Illustrazioni di Daring Creativity
Illustrazioni di Daring Creativity
Orologio Occhio
Orologio Occhio
Fawaz Gruosi
Fawaz Gruosi

Skull, una delle creazioni più controcorrente di de Grisogono
Skull, una delle creazioni più controcorrente di de Grisogono