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Jacob & Co, luxury that sways

Published on September 29, 2019

Orecchini Lustre, con 200 diamanti taglio baguette

Luster earrings by Jacob & co: a cascade of diamonds that sway ♦

Fanciful, a bit strange for jewelers with long pedigrees, loved by rap artists: Jacob Arabo and his Jacob & co constitute a unique case in the world of luxury. And after years he is still able to amaze, as for creations like the Luster earrings, which sparkle with 200 baguette-cut diamonds hanging individually (from 23.53 to 26.89 carats in total), on white gold and with over 400 white diamonds for the pavé. Furthermore, the earrings are light and sway with every movement of the wearer, with a captivating effect.

The jeweler’s success, in fact, is due precisely to these unusual creations. And the designer’s story is also unique. After graduating in jewelry design in 1981, in New York, Arabic opened a small shop in the city’s Diamond District, where he began designing for private clients and jewelers. In 1986, Arabo opened his company, called Diamond Quasar, and began designing with his label, called Jacob & Co. The jewels, very lively, initially attracted the attention of singer Faith Evans, who later her husband, the rapper BIG, was brought to the boutique. Word of mouth has begun in New York’s musical environment and Jacob’s jewels have become popular. Thanks to its unique products and its famous clientele, the brand has thus gained popularity, even expanding into luxury watchmaking since 2002. But without forgetting the jewels. Lavinia Andorno

Orecchini in oro rosa, diamanti, zaffiri rosa

Jewelry and allergy

Published on September 22, 2019

Campus

Do you have jewelry that causes skin allergy or irritation? Here’s how to solve your problem and avoid a nickel allergy ♦

Some argue that allergies are on the rise. As for jewels, unfortunately, they have always been a problem. The reason is simple: there are metals that cause allergic reactions when in contact with the skin. But there are also less dangerous metals for allergy sufferers, such as gold or steel.

Also read: How to avoid nickel allergies

This is why allergy sufferers choose gold jewelry. The yellow metal, in fact, is hypoallergenic, that is it rarely causes reactions in contact with the skin. But then, why does it also happen who wears a gold jewel to suffer from redness or irritation on the part of the body in contact with earrings, bracelets or necklaces?

Irritation caused by jewellery: this is an allergic reaction called contact dermatitis and is caused when pure gold is not used. It is a problem that, according to some calculations, affects 10% of women. This metal, in its natural state (24 carats) is too soft and deforms easily. For this reason, jewelers have linked it together with other metals, such as nickel. In this way the gold jewel becomes more resistant. In Europe, however, for over 20 years now the EU has issued a directive, which has become law in the adhering countries, which drastically reduces the use of nickel in jewellery. Nickel, however, continues to be present in jewelry made before the new rules. In Italy, for example, the use of nickel must not only be within the limits of the law, but also indicated on the label.

However, nickel isn’t the only metal alloyed in jewelry that can cause an allergy. In fact, it must be remembered that all 18, 14 or 9 carat gold jewels are alloyed with other metals. 18-karat gold, for example, means that out of 10 grams of metal, only 7.5 are pure gold, while at 14-karat this drops to around 50%.

How to avoid allergies. How to avoid nickel allergy? The first answer is obvious: if you buy a vintage jewel, ask the jeweler if the metal alloy of the jewel contains nickel.

If you already have jewelry at home that causes skin irritation or allergies, a simple trick is to use nail polish: brushed on the jewelry will avoid contact of the metal with the skin. You have to use the transparent one, of course. This system doesn’t work well with chain necklaces, but it can solve the problem with a ring or bracelet. Just cover the inside of the jewel, the one in contact with the skin, with the enamel. This prevents the nickel from coming into contact with the skin of the hands or wrist. Naturally it is necessary to verify over time that the enamel is not consumed with the use of the jewel.

Other metals. Another, more expensive way to avoid allergies is to choose platinum or titanium jewelry, two hypoallergenic metals. Copper, recommended by many, is certainly not a real alternative to gold: not only does it not have the same luster (even if it costs much less), but when in contact with sweat, it can ruin and dye the skin. Even silver, as long as it is sterling (92.5% pure) is often tolerated by those who have a nickel allergy, but must be constantly cleaned to prevent blackening.
Read also: Are cheap jewels dangerous?

The new hi-tech jewels

Published on August 4, 2019

Showroom

Wallace Chan, anello Onde. Diamanti e titanio

Not only gold and silver: this is why super-technological materials are increasingly used in jewelery ♦

Carbon fiber, titanium, nanoceramics, volcanic lava and even the rediscovery of aluminum: the use of new generation technology and materials in the world of jewelry is increasingly common. The reasons are different. A metal like titanium, for example, is durable and very light. Not only: the titanium can also take on different colors without having to glaze or plate it with some electroplating. On the other hand, it is very difficult to work: that’s why it is not easy to find a titanium jewel.

Suzanne Syz, bracciale Asparagus in titanio, oro, diamanti, ametiste

Titanium, in any case, is one of the materials that in recent years has become a symbol of research and innovation in jewelry. Masters like Wallace Chan, Suzanne Syz, or Maison like Giovanni Ferraris, or jewelery companies like Mattia Cielo from Vicenza, who after experimenting with titanium wires to enhance the flexibility of its products, have also focused on carbon. As well as another avant-garde designer, Fabio Salini: he also uses carbon fiber next to titanium.

Anello titanio, diamanti, zaffiri blu — Giovanni Ferraris, anello titanio, diamanti, zaffiri blu

Carbon also is used by the Austrian Maison Adler, which strongly believes in this ash gray material and has created an entire collection, called Eclipse, made up of microscopic woven carbon fibers, with a silky and slightly silver patina. The contrast of the dark background with colorless diamonds and white and pink gold give the jewelry an almost lunar appearance. The Swiss of Bogh-Art, on the other hand, use ultra-thin “sewn” titanium wires, that is compacted, with fiber optic beams at a precise temperature and pressure. The obtained layer is then cut to give shape to the wings and the petals of butterflies, dragonflies and flowers that make up rings and earrings. A way to make classic designs and frames more sparkling.

Mattia Cielo, bracciale Vulcano con fibra di carbonio

Another frontier of jewelry is the nanoceramic resin, the result of a mixture of water, butyl alcohol and the often methoxypropanol, it covers like a thin film rings, earrings and pendants from the Mistero collection by De Grisogono, with the advantage of making them unteachable. But it is also used by Roberto Demeglio, or by Vhernier, although in a different way. Finally, the technology can be used to work an ancient material like solidified volcanic lava, still not very widespread, but used by David Yurman, who transformed the debris of an eruption into pearls for a necklace with diamonds.

Orecchini Mistero di de Grisogono, con zaffiri rosa rivestiti di nanoceramica

Another ancient material, but rediscovered thanks to the technology that transforms it, is aluminum. Processed and melted with refined methods that allow it to be colored, even aluminum has turned into a precious metal. Light, resistant, very malleable, it was chosen for example by a young avant-garde designer such as Emmanuel Tarpin, but also experimentally by Vhernier for some necklaces from the Calla collection. And also a Maison of high jewelery like the German Hemmerle proposes jewels like the anodized aluminum earrings with cavities in which aquamarines are inserted. Federico Graglia

Niarchos, collezione Reptilia, collier Lady Caiman in argento placcato con rodio nero e nanoceramica verde e 415 diamanti

Roberto Demeglio, bracciali della collezione Scacco in ceramica nera e diamanti

Garavelli, collier della collezione Drago, in oro rosa e ceramica

Vhernier, collana Calla in titanio e diamanti

Hemmerle, orecchini in alluminio anodizzato con cavità in cui sono inserite acquamarine

Orecchini a forma di foglie di geranio venduti da Christie's, alluminio e diamanti — Emmanuel Tarpin, orecchini a forma di foglie di geranio venduti da Christie’s, alluminio e diamanti

Collana con perle di lava vulcanica diamanti di David Yurman

Orecchini Eclipse in fibra di carbonio, oro bianco e diamanti di Adler

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e titanio di Bogh-Art

Vhernier extends Calla

Published on July 21, 2019

Showroom

collana CALLA in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri grigi e kogolong

A new necklace in kogolong and sapphires is added to the Calla collection by Vhernier ♦

Do you know which flower never fade? The calla. Or, better, the Calla with the capital letter C. The collection by Vhernier , after celebrating 20 birthdays a year ago, has continued to evolve in many variations, with the same ambition to combine the classic, pure, simple Calla design with new aesthetic and technical experiments.

Such was, for example, the introduction of Eyeliner, a technique for making an artisan pavé composed of a carpet of diamonds or sapphires of different sizes, arranged in an apparently casual manner. This type of pavé is now proposed, for example, in a new one-of-a-kind necklace, made with kogolong elements, lava stone characterized by pure white color, combined with three other elements in white gold with pavé Eyeliner of sapphires gray.

Alongside this unique piece, Vhernier has expanded its catalog to introduce pieces made of aluminum, which is added to the just used titanium, and to nanoceramics. It should be noted that Calla is also available in a men’s version, with bracelets and rings in satin-finished titanium, metal as resistant as steel but much lighter, which interact with the softness of pink gold.

For women, on the other hand, next to bracelets, the Calla collection includes the possibility of choosing rings and earrings. Of course the elements that make up the jewels are smaller and allow the bend. Also in this case titanium and rose gold are the materials that go with the diamonds.

Calla bracelets by Vhernier

Published on June 17, 2019

bracciale/Showroom

The Calla bracelets by Vhernier, the newcomers to the Maison’s most classic collection ♦

They are called Calla, because the shape of jewels resembles that of the delicate flower with the petals forming an elongated bell. But the Calla collection by Vhernier, even though it is 20 years old, has not withered. This is demonstrated by the new burst of jewels that expand the line of the Maison with the laboratory in Valenza and the heart in Milan. After last year’s nano-ceramic and titanium necklaces, here are the Calla bracelets, which look like necklaces in all respects, but on a smaller scale.

The Maison emphasizes how the creative effort was aimed at maintaining the classic design of the necklaces, the classic pieces of the collection, but granting a portability that allows the Calla to be put on the wrist. The bracelet is proposed in the classic Vhernier rose or white gold, but in two different variants: mirror-polished or brushed, less usual finish, but also in titanium. Small diamonds are set in metal in a sort of pavé or mark the outline of the different elements. Note: the closure is invisible, but there is: the bracelet opens easily.

Bracciale Calla in oro bianco e diamanti

Bracciale Calla in oro rosa lucido e diamanti

Bracciale Calla in oro bianco satinato e diamanti

Syz Fireworks, the fantasy doubles

Published on May 14, 2019

Rings/bracciale

The jewels of the new Syz Fireworks brand, founded by Suzanne and Isabelle Syz. With the debut in GemGèneve ♦ ︎

Some say that a daughter-in-law and mother-in-law never agree. Not true, at least in jewelry. Do you want the proof? That of Suzanne and Isabelle Syz, founders of Syz Fireworks. The new brand debuted at GemGèneve and with a trunkshow on Moda Operandi. The jewels of Syz Fireworks join those already acclaimed by Suzanne Syz, who has invented a cheerful, transgressive style, also innovative from a technical point of view, since she has staked everything on the use of titanium and unconventional shapes.

The jewels of the original Maison, however, are in a price range that not everyone can reach. Syz Fireworks promises the same creative verve, but with a more affordable cost, on average from 2,500 to 8,000 euros. The jewels are always in titanium, with small diamonds set. Life is too short to wear boring jewelry, say the two Syz. And certainly the jewels of the newborn brand will not bore anyone either.

Anello per capelli in oro giallo e diamanti

Collana con ciondolo in oro rosa, titanio e diamanti

Giovanni Ferraris extends Titanium

Published on April 2, 2019

Rings/Showroom

Giovanni Ferraris, anelli in titanio con zaffiri blu o verdi

New rings from the Titanium collection presented by Giovanni Ferraris at Baselworld ♦ ︎

Titanium is a light metal but very durable. And judging by the Titanium collection by Giovanni Ferraris, it is also able to stimulate the imagination of designers, despite the difficulty of processing this material for jewelry. The Titanium collection of the Maison of Valenza is going to be ten years old, yet every year this metal flourishes in the Giovanni Ferraris workshops to reborn with different colors and shapes. At Baselworld 2019, for example, a leaf-shaped ring was added to the Titanium garden, available in blue or green sapphires. A perfect complement to the butterfly-shaped jewels presented a few months earlier.

Titanium is a metal that also has some precious characteristics for jewelry: a specific weight lower than that of other materials and hypoallergenic properties. Moreover, it also has the ability to take on different colors during the processing phases. In the case of the ring, for example, the metal is blue with the version with sapphires of the same hue, while the other is olive green, just like the butterflies of the same collection.

Anelli a forma di farfalla, in titanio e zaffiri verdi, gialli, viola

Orecchini titanio, diamanti, zaffiri blu

Orecchini vincitori al Couture di Las Vegas 2014. Oro bianco, titanio, diamanti, zaffiri blu

Anello titanio, diamanti, zaffiri blu, tormalina rosa. Anello titanio, diamanti, diamanti gialli, rodolite — Anello titanio, diamanti, zaffiri blu, tormalina rosa. Anello titanio, diamanti, diamanti
gialli, rodolite

Orecchini titanio, oro rosa, diamanti — Orecchini titanio, oro rosa,
diamanti

Anello in titanio, diamanti, acquamarina

Hemmerle’s new extraordinary creations

Published on March 31, 2019

Showroom

The extraordinary creations of Hemmerle, queen of high jewelry design ♦ ︎

It is not a case when a marriage lasts 22 years. And if, more, the union is not conditioned by juridical or religious ties, the marriage is even more valid. Indeed, it is no coincidence that the German Maison Hemmerle has been present for 22 years at the Tefaf in Maastricht, a refined appointment for those who love antiquity but, more generally, art. Here only a few jewelers arrive, only those who make their production a work that is on a par with a painting or a sculpture. And Hemmerle is one of them.

The Munich jeweler is an extraordinary creator of refined unique pieces.

Born 126 years ago, Hemmerle is still managed by the family, in particular by Christian Hemmerle, and produces around 200 pieces a year. Unique pieces not only for the style, but also for the use of surprising materials and cutting-edge manufacturing. For example, aluminum. Thanks to an anodizing process, Hemmerle creates an aluminum with shades that recall the colors found in nature in precious stones. The earrings presented at Tefaf that look like small blue asteroids, for example, were made of anodized aluminum and aquamarine.

Orecchini ispirati al pittore svizzero Paul Klee. Argento annerito, filo in oro, diamanti — Orecchini ispirati al pittore svizzero Paul Klee. Argento annerito, filo in oro bianco, diamanti

But Hemmerle also manages to ennoble silver, perhaps in alloy with other metals to make it unrecognizable. At Tefaf, for example, the brand presented two blackened silver earrings inspired by a 1927 painting by Paul Klee, Schwarzer Fürst, with a stylized face in which the eye is a diamond. But it makes jewels also with titanium, a light and sturdy metal, but difficult to work with: is one of the Maison’s favorite materials. Truly a unique case in the world of jewelry. Alessia Mongrando

Orecchini di giada su argento annerito e oro

Orecchini in bronzo, oro bianco e diamanti

Anello in alluminio, oro bianco e tsavorite

Anello in bronzo, oro bianco e diamante brown

Busatti Milano between titanium and virtuosity

Published on March 6, 2019

Rings/Showroom

Anello in titanio con smeraldo colombiano incastonato un cristallo di rocca

Titanio e virtuosismo orafo segnano il ritorno a Baselworld della Maison Busatti Milano ♦︎

Busatti Milano torna a a Baselworld con l’aggiunta di una novità, introdotta recentemente dal brand di gioielleria: l’utilizzo di titanio, un metallo che è diventato una specie di frontiera per molte aziende della gioielleria. Dall’utilizzo industriale, infatti, il titanio si è trasferito nei laboratori orafi con qualche difficoltà: è leggero, flessibile, anallergico. Ma è anche difficile da lavorare. Ora, però, l’utilizzo del titanio si diffonde, come nel caso del set che Busatti ha deciso di presentare alla fiera svizzera di gioielleria e orologeria.

Il set in titanio comprende un bracciale, un anello e un paio di orecchini. Sul metallo sono montati diamanti e zaffiri di un blu intenso.

Ma non sono questi gli unici gioielli in titanio. Ci sono anche altri pezzi che utilizzano questo metallo, come l’anello con al centro uno smeraldo taglio cuscino incastonato in una spessa corona di cristallo di rocca e circondato da una cornice che, come in un fumetto, sembra indicare un tuffo della pietra: splash. Virtuosismo orafo. Giulia Netrese

Anello con diamanti, smeraldi e opale al centro

Titanium and goldsmith virtuosity mark the return to Baselworld of the Maison Busatti Milano ♦ ︎

Busatti Milano returns to Baselworld with the addition of a novelty, recently introduced by the jewelery brand: the use of titanium, a metal that has become a sort of frontier for many jewelery companies. In fact, from the industrial use, titanium has moved into the goldsmiths’ workshops with some difficulty: it is light, flexible, hypoallergenic. But it is also difficult to work with. Now, however, the use of titanium spreads, as in the case of the set that Busatti has decided to present at the Swiss fair of jewelery and watches.

The titanium set includes a bracelet, a ring and a pair of earrings. Diamonds and sapphires of an intense blue are mounted on the metal.

But these are not the only titanium jewelry. There are also other pieces that use this metal, such as the ring with a cushion emerald in the center, set in a thick rock crystal crown and surrounded by a frame that, as in a comic book, seems to indicate a dip in the stone: splash . Goldsmith virtuosity. Giulia Netrese

The journey of Suzanne Syz

Published on February 15, 2019

Rings/alta gioielleria/Showroom

The new jewels of the artist-designer Suzanne Syz: fantasy, irony and a bit of nostalgia ♦ ︎

A journey through time with the art of a Swiss designer who is truly different from the others. Although his specialty is to propose new techniques and surprising shapes, his journey through time is turned backwards, to the fifties, sixties, eighties. In short, new forms to wink at the recent past, with a little ‘nostalgia.

As in the All Tired Up rings, which have the shape of tires. Almost a provocation if you think that they are the result of a refined jewelry technique.

The rings are made of titanium (but they are also available in gold or golden titanium), a difficult metal to work, which is favored material by Suzanne Syz. The traces of snow between the cracks in the tire are small diamonds. The Arctic Ice ring, in silver and enamel, instead uses ceramic to remember the ice of the North Pole, with a paraiba tourmaline that looks like a small iceberg. Another feature of the designer is the good dose of irony that she uses for her jewelry. An example is the large pair of earrings with the tap-shaped clip: there are not missed hot and cold writing. Also in this case, the idea of the drops of water that come down are paraiba tourmalines, next to small diamonds. Giulia Netrese

Suzanne Syz, orecchini in titanio, oro, diamanti

Orecchini Rock Baroque in alluminio e tormalina

Suzanne Syz, orecchini a forma di rubinetto con tormalina paraiba e diamanti

A new Tourbillon by Vhernier

Published on February 6, 2019

Rings/Showroom

Vhernier, Tourbillon ring, rose gold, titanium

The Tourbillon ring by Vhernier is renewed with a gold and titanium version. And Drew Barrymore … ♦ ︎

The Tourbillon ring by Vhernier is a classic that is renewed over time. The Piedmont-based Maison in Milan focuses on a refined design, for true lovers of the sophisticated exclusivity of the essential. It is also the case of the Tourbillon collection: two large overlapping and offset bands merge into a clean design, a fluid composition, a force in perennial movement.

The novelty is that Vhernier for the first time combines its characteristic pink gold with the opaque gray of titanium.

This is also a sophisticated combination, as the style of the brand provides. The new version is added to the more classic versions composed of two bands in rose gold and white gold, sometimes illuminated by thin pavé diamonds. Among the lovers of the Vhernier style there is also Drew Barrymore, actress and director, who wore the Abbraccio ring for the premiere of The World’s Best, an international talent competition that debuted on the US CBS television network after the 2019 Super Bowl. Lavinia Andorno

Anello Tourbillon in oro bianco e diamanti

Orecchini Tourbillon in oro rosa e bianco

Orecchini Tourbillon in oro rosa e diamanti

Drew Barrymore con l'anello Abbraccio — Drew Barrymore con l’anello Abbraccio

DiaColor and the colors of titanium

Published on September 17, 2018

Showroom

Orecchini a goccia in titanio e diamanti

A titanium collection with many shades comes from India: it’s by DiaColor ♦

Those who still think of India as the country where you move on the back of an elephant must change your mind. India is not only a global economic power, but is also rapidly changing its culture and, therefore, its aesthetic standards. This collection it’s the evidence: it’s called The Many Shades of Titanium. It’s proposed by a New Delhi Maison, DiaColor.

To establish DiaColor was a third-generation jeweler, Rishabh Tongya.

Although most of DiaColor’s production is rather traditional, with large floral motifs, such finely chiselled gold, and with many colored stones, The Many Shades of Titanium collection is innovative in the Indian jewelry scene. Meanwhile, it does not use as a base the metal adored by the Indians, gold. Perhaps also because the Indian government’s policy has long discouraged the importation of the yellow metal. But in any case, using titanium is not easy for anyone. And the DiaColor collection presents bracelets, earrings, rings made by hand, with many colors (it is a characteristic of titanium to be colored) and with diamonds of first choice.
In shades of pink, deep blue, deep gold and aquamarine, the collection stands out in the jewelry scene of the great Asian country, but it can also be interesting for the western market. It is worth taking a look. Alessia Mongrando

Anello con fiore arcobaleno con diamanti gialli e bianchi

Orecchini in titanio colorato e diamanti

Anello Fiore in titanio colorato, occhi di gatto, diamanti gialli e bianchi

earrings carry diamonds over bronze coloured titanium — Orecchini a sfere con titanio color bronzo e diamanti

Bracciale con titanio color bronzo e diamanti

Orecchini con titanio color bronzo e diamanti

Wallace Chan invents the super porcelain

Published on July 23, 2018

alta gioielleria

Wallace Chan qualche anno fa. Photo: Christie's

Wallace Chan invents a super porcelain for his high jewelry ♦ ︎

The jewelery? An activity for hard people. With hard materials, of course. Its knews also by jeweler-artist Wallace Chan, who revealed to the New York Times that he has succeeded in inventing an even harder material than steel: porcelain. But not the porcelain that is used for teacups. In fact, it is a porcelain created to be used in jewelry and with a greater resistance than metal.
Do you have to believe him? Yes, Wallace Chan is a Hong Kong jeweler who does not stop at any technical difficulty. His jewelry-sculptures are examples of the creative virtuosity of which he is capable. As a testament to his invention, the designer showed a large blue porcelain ring surmounted by a diamond and hit him violently on the table. The jewel has not even to go through a scratch. To make this material Chan took seven years, but he obtained a porcelain five times harder than steel. The jeweler also gave him a name: Wallace Chan Porcelain.
How did made it? It’s an industrial secret, he says. It is only known that this jewelry porcelain is made in two German furnaces at about 1,650 degrees Celsius (3,000 degrees Fahrenheit), a temperature that is about 200 degrees Celsius higher than the traditional process. The super-resistant porcelain is Chan’s second major innovation, which introduced the Wallace Cut in the 1970s, a method for carving precious gems like cameos and making it famous.

L'anello di porcellana realizzato da Wallace Chan — L’anello di porcellana realizzato da Wallace Chan

Chan uses super porcelain together with titanium, the metal that has often been used for his elaborate jewels, so much so as to represent a characteristic of his style. Now porcelain could be the new frontier, because according to Chan, besides being resistant, it can be colored. The jeweler has told to undergo the charm of the porcelain since he was a child. He was born in a very poor family, where the adults shared a single porcelain spoon, while he and his brothers used one of plastic, shared. One day, Chan wanted to experience the thrill of holding the porcelain spoon, but he dropped it and broke it. An emotion that, he says, was a stimulus to invent super porcelain. Although now the spoons are not lacking him. Giulia Netrese

A tale of two dragons, spille. Periodo Qianlong (1736-1795) bianco, gancio Jade Dragon cintura, smeraldo, rubino, zaffiro, zaffiri rosa e diamanti fancy

A Lyrical Moment, bracciale con zaffiri colorati, granat,i tsavorite, diamanti bianchi e giali, rubini e ametiste — A Lyrical Moment, 2016. Bracciale con zaffiri colorati, granat,i tsavorite, diamanti bianchi e giali, rubini e ametiste

Ruby Castle, anello. Rubino birmano di forma esagonale, zaffiri rosa, titanio

Stilled Life, spilla scultura. Spilla: giadeite imperiale, giada lavanda, rubino e diamanti fancy. Scultura di bambù: cristallo, diamante giallo, zaffiri rosa, granati, tzavorite

Mattia Cielo per 16

Published on March 29, 2018

bracciale/Showroom

Mattia Cielo presents the Rugiada bracelet, which wraps itself 16 times around the wrist ♦ ︎
If something likes it, like it. And if a jewel likes it, why not propose it again? But at the same time, trying to surprise anyway. Possible? Possible. And that’s what Mattia Cielo did at Baselworld 2018. Instead of proposing something completely different, he showed something completely surprising. That is a special piece of the Rugiada collection. This is a cord bracelet that rolls around the arm for a full 16 turns. It is a unique piece, which completes one of the most successful collections of the Venetian jeweler. Which, it is good to remember, is also one of those that combine jewelry with technology.
The Rugiada collection, like many others of the brand, uses rose gold, yellow, white, together with diamonds or, in other cases, colored stones. They are spirals that wind and wrap around the arm when worn, then return to the original shape. An effect that Mattia Cielo achieves by using a soul in a special titanium alloy used in the aerospace industry. Lavinia Andorno

Mattia Cielo, bracciale Rugiada, oro e diamanti

Mattia Cielo: my tech-design

Published on August 10, 2017

Showroom

The interview recently released to Gioiellis.com by one of the most innovative Italian designers: Mattia Cielo ♦

«If you think that jewelry is fixed thing with time, daughter of ancient traditions and that’s it, you are wrong», begins Mattia Cielo. The Vicenza based designer and goldsmith is, indeed, almost an anomaly in Italian jewelery. Unlike most of his colleagues, in fact, is not afraid to pin the luxury and beauty issue to technology. But the way is not put electronics in a necklace or in a ring: it would be a simple idea. The idea pursued (successfully) by Mattia Cielo, in fact, is another, more complex but also more attractive. «The truth is that we are lucky: from Turin to Venice is a succession of companies able to use technology and to innovate. Just search and visit them, examin on the spot their suggestions, inventions, tools. In many sectors Italy has the world leadership. That’s why I thought using new materials and cutting-edge solutions could be a real innovation in jewelry. For example, micro screws, titanium wires or elements that are used n the aerospace, micro-mechanics and automation, offer the possibility of a different design and greater creativity», says the jeweler, who has a long family history in the spirit of gold and precious stones classical processing.

The search’s results by Mattia Cielo is amazing. One of the first experiments was Armadillo, a ring with an unusual moving armor, similar to one of the animal to which it is inspired: inner springs control the movement of the gold shields with screws that make up the ring. Then came the titanium alloy from aerospace industry, with its cability to change shape but then return to the original position, applied to Rugiada collection spiral bracelets. «Here the movement: only marriage between precious materials and the most advanced technology allows to achieve certain results. But it is not easy to explain to companies committed in such different industries, the needs of a goldsmith, like limited number of pieces, our materials or the design to be met of course what makes beautiful and precious a jewel», adds Cielo.«The comparison, however, in the end, gives the right results». As in the case of the new bracelet Pavone, composed by interlinked arches which oscillate, perfectly synchronized, following the movement of the body. Or the new entry in the collection Vulcano, big volumes in gold 18K resistant but comfortable thanks to technology: a kind of fabric made from structural carbon fibers inserted into molds lined with resin allows to realize oversized jewelry without the problem of space inside that makes the object fragile or on the contrary completely full that makes it too heavy. The concrete proof are the large bracelets and statement groumette necklaces embellished with diamonds, very pleasant to look at and to wear. Monica Battistoni

Bracciale Nebula in oro rosa con elementi scorrevoli anulari in oro e diamanti della collezione Nebula

Vulcano, bracciale in oro rosa e diamanti

Mattia Cielo Les Facettes — Mattia Cielo, anelli

Mattia Cielo 3 — Mattia Cielo, bracciale in oro e diamanti

Mattia Cielo 1 — Mattia Cielo, bracciale

Suzanne Syz for three

Published on August 1, 2017

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Suzanne Syz, anello cin oro con tormalina, diamanti e smalto

Suzanne Syz’s latest jewelery, among unusual materials, pop and a stunning design ♦ ︎
Born in Zurich, who grew up in Paris, she moved to New York in the 1980s and attended Andy Warhol, Jean Michel Basquiat, Julian Schnabel, Francesco Clemente and Jeff Koons. Does anyone wonder why Suzanne Syz describes his business as Art Jewelry? It is, of course, part of his destiny, his attitude, his abilities. The jewels she shows attest this description. The last ones were shown at the Hotel Bergues in Geneva at the end of July. And, as always, they have surprised even by those who know Suzanne Syz very well.
Jewelery could be placed in three different typologies: those of unusual geometries that somehow seem to allude to endless volumes like Möbius’s Ribbon, exuberant luxury jewels, such as the enamel ring, tourmaline and diamonds, and those of Pop inspiration. This is the case, for example, of the fun straw-like earrings made of diamonds and sapphires. Also for these jewels Suzanne Syz often uses non-traditional materials such as aluminum or titanium. Next stage: Salon Art + Design NYC from 9 to 13 November. Margherita Donato

Suzanne Syz, Basket earrings, con diamanti e zaffiri

Bracciale in alluminio anodizzato e diamanti

Orecchini in titanio, platino, oro bianco, diamanti, tormalina

Anello in bronzo, zaffiri rosa e tormalina rosa

Bracciale in alluminio con granati, peridoti, tormalina e diamanti champagne

Anello con tormalina Paraiba circondata da diamanti su titanio blu

Anello in alluminio, oro e diamanti, pezzo unico

New Vhernier Earrings

Published on June 25, 2017

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Vhernier, orecchini con pasta turchese. Prezzo: 900 euro l'uno

A new version of Vhernier earrings from the Vague collection, with turquoise paste. Images and price ♦ ︎
Five years ago Vhernier proposed a pair of limited edition earrings in conjunction with the most famous Italian brand of boats, Riva. They were earrings from the classic Vague collection of Vhernier, but asymmetrical: one was made of turquoise pasta, the other in white gold. Now the brand of Valenza and flagshipstore in Via Monte Napoleone, in Milan, relaunches blue earrings. But the occasion is the opening of the store in Porto Cervo, the port of Costa Smeralda, Sardinia, frequented by notoriously rich tourists. The Vague earrings are perhaps among the Vhernier collections, the one that has long life. However, they are renewed not in the design that simulates a soft wave, but in the materials. In September 2016, for example, were added earring made in titanium, one of the materials used by Maison for its collections. This new version of turquoise paste is sold individually (ie not for pair) at 900 euros. Alessia Mongrando
Read also: Velvet Titanium with Vhernier

Piero Milano dives in Goa

Published on June 3, 2017

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Piero Milano, bracciale e anello della collezione Goa

Piero Milano launches the Goa collection: a thin gold thread is braided around a titanium core ♦
After a visit to Marrakech, a jump in Rome and a climb to Mount Fuji, all of the names of historical collections, Piero Milano decided to relax on the beaches of Goa, India. It is dedicated to the city colonized by the Portuguese four centuries ago and then became a landing point for hippies and, now, for the leisure of thousands of tourists, the new collection of the Maison of Valenza.
The new Goa collection uses traditional jewelery techniques conjugated to new technologies. For jewelry, a single strand of gold is used, which is wrapped around a titanium core, which serves as the “skeleton” of the piece. A bracelet, for example, will be able to be robust, but also lightweight. Gold, yellow as the beaches of Goa, is further warmed up by small diamonds or gemstones.
The company, which has a laboratory in the Piedmont city and offices in the capital of Lombardy, was founded in 1953 by Piero Milano and Luigi Benzi. Maison’s iconic brand is a small golden butterfly with engraved brand signature, a sign that distinguishes every piece produced. Alessia Mongrando
Read also: The news of Piero Milano

Bracciale in oro bianco e giallo con diamanti

The new Fuseau by Vhernier

Published on March 15, 2017

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Anello Fuseau in titanio grigio e diamanti

By Vhernier, a springtime with Fuseau made in titanium and diamonds.
Fuseau is a French word which means spindle, stretched. But it is also the name of a collection of the most iconic by Vhernier, Italian brand of jewelry that focuses on two factors: a unique design and refined materials. This does not necessarily mean stones from the mammoth size but refined combinations, painstaking workmanship, laboratory research. As in the case of collection Fuseau, in fact. It proposed in recent years in different versions, for example gold, mother of pearl, smoky quartz or jade and rock crystal, and reappears in 2017 with a new look. This time, the material used is titanium: a light metal element, resistant, stainless steel. But also very difficult to work. Even more if on the titanium surface are set smaller diamonds that make up a small galaxy. As in the best traditions of the House, the diamond lines, which at first glance seem random, they are actually carefully studied. These small stones also are of the best quality and are tapered on the form of the classic Fuseau ring, which is slightly oblique to stay in line with the shape of the hand, or of three pairs of earrings. In addition to titanium gray version, they add pendants in pink and blue. But this is not the only novelty of Vhernier for 2017 (we’ll talk about soon).

Orecchini Fuseau in titanio rosa e diamanti

Orecchini Fuseau in titanio grigio e diamanti

Anello Fuseau in oro bianco e diamanti bianchi e neri

Vhernier on blue velvet

Published on September 15, 2016

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In New York the new Vhernier necklace, Blue Velvet, made in titanium, diamonds and tanzanite.
It’s called Blue Velvet, as the title of a famous song and a movie. But it is not velvet: Blue Velvet New York is the name of the new Vhernier necklace, designed to celebrate the opening of the two single-brand boutique in the Big Apple. To be precise, the two stores are at 783 Madison Avenue, in the so-called Golden Mile, and at 55 Wall Street, in the heart of the Financial District. The necklace, made entirely by hand, is with titanium, 1,698 embedded diamonds (16.88 carats total) and three extraordinary Tanzanite cabochon cut from deep blue (34,04 carats for the center stone, 20,88 and 21,72 carats for the two side). The metal blue color highlights the excellence of stones and diamonds. The jewel, precise the company, is the result of over two years of study and research to work the titanium in an unprecedented way. And the result that combines technology with aesthetics in perfect Vhernier style.

titanio - Page 2

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Il set in titanio comprende un bracciale, un anello e un paio di orecchini. Sul metallo sono montati diamanti e zaffiri di un blu intenso.

Titanium and goldsmith virtuosity mark the return to Baselworld of the Maison Busatti Milano ♦ ︎

The titanium set includes a bracelet, a ring and a pair of earrings. Diamonds and sapphires of an intense blue are mounted on the metal.

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As in the All Tired Up rings, which have the shape of tires. Almost a provocation if you think that they are the result of a refined jewelry technique.

The Tourbillon ring by Vhernier is renewed with a gold and titanium version. And Drew Barrymore … ♦ ︎

The novelty is that Vhernier for the first time combines its characteristic pink gold with the opaque gray of titanium.

A titanium collection with many shades comes from India: it’s by DiaColor ♦

To establish DiaColor was a third-generation jeweler, Rishabh Tongya.

Wallace Chan invents a super porcelain for his high jewelry ♦ ︎