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The jewels of Tefaf Maastricht

Published on March 7, 2023

Anna Hu, bracciale Enchanted Lily, con un peridoto da 53,92 carati, gemme colorate, diamanti

In Maastricht (Netherlands) Tefaf is back (11-19 March) and, alongside antiques and works of art from the 270 exhibitors, it also presents, as always, extraordinary high jewellery. On display are vintage designer jewels, but also new ones, signed by Maisons that choose Tefaf to showcase their new creations, such as the German Hemmerle, Boghossian, Otto Jakob, but there are also jewelery brands such as van Cleef & Arpels .

Collana in oro, smeraldi, zaffiri e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels

Among the new jewels present, new pieces presented by the artist-designer Anna Hu should not be forgotten, such as the Enchanted Lily Bangle bracelet, centered by a 53.92-carat peridot with colored gems, diamonds and gems. But even vintage jewelry has a special charm. For example, the heritage necklace and clip pendant by Van Cleef & Arpels created in 1971 in yellow gold, with 13 engraved emeralds for approximately 35.52 carats, 14 Burmese sapphires also engraved for approximately 32.17 carats and diamonds.

Fabergé, spilla in oro, diamanti e crisopraso

Another piece out of the ordinary is the brooch with a chrysoprase in the center signed by Fabergé: it has an extraordinary provenance, which includes three European royal families, Danish, Greek and Russian imperial. Last note: last year at Tefaf (which was held in June due to covid) a sensational, incredible robbery took place, with the theft of a necklace worth 27 million euros. But it seems that no one has been put off by this precedent.

Boghossian, orecchini con conch pearl, diamanti gialli e zaffiri rosa

Hemmerle, anello con diamante brillante di 5,68 carati e diamanti reverse per 2,5 carati

The best designers: Pierre Sterlé

Published on August 3, 2021

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Pierre Sterlé, spilla con zaffiri e gemme, anni Sessanta

Great designers to rediscover: the French master Pierre Sterlé ♦

Time ago, Hancocks, the London company specializing in the sale of rare jewels, was in the Tefaf in Maastricht with 88 pieces, including a special necklace: the Pierre Sterlé diamond Ribbon, a jewel made in 1960. The choice is also a recognition for the French jeweler. The necklace, 62.9 carats, has a stylized arch motif, with the ends more thin and diamond baguette cut. Son of a banking family, Pierre Sterlé was born in 1905.

As a boy he lived with an uncle, a jeweler in Paris: so he also was initiated to the craft and debuted in 1934 with his own creation. He worked for Boucheron, Chaumet and Ostertag. The writer Colette loved the work of Sterle and was one of its first customers. During World War it moved to larger premises, in Avenue de l’Opera, near Place Vendome. He also worked for the way of fashion, Dior, Balenciaga or Jean Desses. Pierre Sterlé has earned an international reputation and clientele: from Indian maharajas to the King of Egypt, Farouk, who ordered him a ring for his wife, the Queen Narriman.

Pierre Sterlé’s style is easily recognizable: it is characterized by inspiring themes, artistic treatment and technical mastery. The recurring motifs in his work derive from nature: birds, wings, feathers, animals and various types of flowers. His themes feature asymmetry and a Baroque type of extravagance, contrasting with opulent geometric shapes and arabesques seen in traditional jewelry of the era.

Collana twist a nastro con diamanti taglio brillante e taglio baguette proposta da Hancocks

His reputation was cemented when he won the De Beers Diamond Award, a major achievement in the profession of jewelry, which has won for three consecutive years, in 1953, 1954 and 1955. But not everything went the right way: by Sterlé jewelry has expanded to perfumes, Huit-Huit and 2 Diam, which have been an economic disaster. Despite this, his career continued as a jeweler, but always with little luck since financing point of view (although the family had made a fortune with finance). So in 1976 he had to liquidate the company, and all the material was purchased by Chaumet. It disappeared in 1978, but her jewelry continue to be more popular than ever.

Anello in oro con rubini, diamante color acquamarina

Bracciale in oro comn diamanti e granato

Bracciale di Pierre Sterlé in oro bianco e giallo

Time travel with Otto Jakob

Published on October 26, 2020

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Orecchini Wolodja di Otto Jakob. Sono ispirati al film del 1925 «La corazzata Potemkin». I volti sono stati realizzati utilizzando lo stesso stampo, ma smaltati in modo leggermente diverso per farli sembrare gemelli

From the Etruscans in Tuscany to the Tefaf in New York: the elaborate jewelry by Otto Jakob.

The end of October coincided with Otto Jakob’s return to Tefaf in New York, this year in an online version (1-4 November). From Karlsruhe, a city in southwest Germany, the German designer has won legions of admirers. Her recipe calls for 70 percent of fantasy, 25 percent of design and 5 percent of the Teutonic spirit instilled in her jewelry. That of Otto is not a job, but a vocation: he began at age 17 with the study of Etruscan art, Celtic and classical: influences that are still present in his unique pieces, plus a kind of medieval soul. From 1977 to 1980 he studied painting. Then, it is dedicated exclusively to jewelry making. But is not jewelry that you can be bought in any jewelry: are special pieces, exposed only to Tefaf or in an art gallery. Nor is it surprising that in previous editions Jakob was assigned to Tefaf in an area reserved for ancient jewels.

His real teachers, in fact, are Italians goldsmiths like Benvenuto Cellini in Fortunato Pio Castellani.

There is no trace of modern design in its rings, earrings or bracelets. They are special pieces. For example, he can use crystals of Pakistan rock and, simultaneously, with gold inclusions, oil, tar and gas, red spinel, ruby and diamond. On average, each piece is made with about one hundred hours of work by nine craftsmen. 70 percent of production are unique pieces, the rest is made up of small variations of already proposed jewels. The prices of her jewels start at around 7,000 euro and arrive in tens of thousands. And they are reserved for those who truly love his style. Rudy Serra

Pendente Lalibela in oro con perla keshi e rubino

Anello vintage con diamante in oro e smalto

Pendente Araçari con un'ametista che si è sviluppata all'interno di un quarzo — Pendente Araçari con un’ametista che si è sviluppata all’interno di un quarzo

Orecchini Edentulina ispirati a una lumaca. Sono realizzati con una rara conchiglia verde africana e tormaline arancioni

Tefaf online with high jewelry

Published on October 20, 2020

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Tefaf New York Fall, a fair of precious and antiques, will be online this year due to the health emergency (1-4 November, with a preview on 30-31 October, 300 exhibitors). At Tefaf, in addition to the rookies we wrote about here, there are prominent jewelers, such as Hong Kong artist-designer Wallace Chan, Hemmerle, Cindy Chao, Taffin, Otto Jakob, as well as jewelry from past designers such as Suzanne Belperron.

European jewelry is represented by Hemmerle, a great Maison in Munich that combines the avant-garde with luxury. Refined shapes, surprising combinations of materials are the ingredients of Hemmerle’s jewels. Among the jewels present at Tefaf online, there is a pendant with tassel composed of small natural pearls suspended from a base of silver and white gold, paved with diamonds. The cord is made from smoky quartz beads knitted using a nearly extinct Austrian technique revived from the early 19th century of woven precious gem beads. Each bead is cut and carved and pierced by hand. Otto Jakob also comes from Germany, specializing in small jewels with floral or animal themes. He often uses gold and enamel together with colored stones.

French, but a long time resident in New York, James Taffin de Givenchy is another refined jeweler present in the Tefaf review. It is difficult to frame Taffin’s jewels and his Maison in a single style: they are truly out of the ordinary. Like the necklace with large tanzanite accompanied by black pebbles on platinum and rose gold. Really unique.

Taffin, collana con tanzanite e ciottoli

From the East, Hong Kong, comes another jeweler-artist always present at Tefaf: Wallace Chan, who presents a brooch in the shape of a butterfly. It is a jewel that highlights Wallace Chan’s fantasy and superfine technique, which uses titanium to maintain the lightness of the jewel. For example, the gemstones on the butterfly’s wings are angled to convey a sense of life and movement. The butterfly also houses an 8.24-carat imperial topaz used for the body of the butterfly, with two emeralds at the end. The brooch also includes rubies, yellow diamonds, orange sapphires, tsavorite garnets and set diamonds. Also from Hong Kong, Cindy Chao (who was born in Taiwan) brings her pieces of high jewelry.For example, the Black Label Masterpiece III Green Plumule 2020 brooch, made with 487 emeralds (17 of these from Colombia) different shapes and sizes, for a total of 172.58 carats.

Spilla farfalla In Love with Spring di Wallace Chan

Cindy Chao, spilla Masterpiece III Green Plumule Brooch

Collana in oro e diamanti di Suzanne Belperron, in vendita da Siegelson

Orecchini di Taffin in giada su platino e oro, con ceramica e zaffiri

Tefaf’s new jewelers

Published on October 16, 2020

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Bracciale della collezione Genesi di Gismondi 1754

Many debuts, including two Italians, at Tefaf New York Fall, the prestigious fair of precious and antiques that this year, due to coronavirus, will be online. The two italian news are Gismondi 1754 and Vendorafa. The online fair organized by the European Fine Art Foundation (1-4 November plus a preview 30-31 October, 300 exhibitors) includes a large group of famous jewelers, such as Hong Kong artist-designer Wallace Chan, Hemmerle, Cindy Chao, Taffin, Otto Jakob. We talk about it in another article. But it’s also interesting see who the new jewelers are.

One of the novelties is represented by Gismondi 1454, which will present the Genesi collection, with jewels that are inspired by the helical spiral of the Nautilus shell. In fact, the Maison is from Genoa, a seaside city. The jewels, in fact, are inspired by the fossils seen by the Ceo Massimo Gismondi at the Natural History Museum. The jewels are composed of 18k rose gold strands that describe soft ellipses, paved with diamonds and topped and drop-shaped white ceramic with gold edges.

The other Italian brand debuting, the Maison of Valenza Vendorafa, offers its classic gold creations, such as the Onda ring. The jewel features a typical Vendorafa workmanship, with hammered yellow gold together with a polished finish band and a line of small diamonds on the edge.

Pod ring di Nicholas Liou con un diamante blu-verde e diamanti bianchi

From the East, however, the new entry is Nicholas Lieou, a high-end jewelry designer based in Hong Kong. We already saw her jewels last year in GemGèneve, but theis fair won’t be held this year. Nicholas Lieou started out as an apprentice for London-based jeweler Shaun Leane. And he was also design director for high-end bespoke jewelry for Tiffany & Co. He has recently launched a capsule collection in collaboration with Sotheby’s Diamonds: one of the jewels he presents is the Pod Ring, with a fancy cushion-cut diamond in color 4.40 carat bluish-green surrounded by a pavé of white diamonds on platinum.

Orecchini Pearl Raind di Tatiana Verstraeten

Finally, another new name for Tefaf is that of Tatiana Verstraeten, a Belgian designer who prefers jewels with long fringes, such as the earrings with a shower of pearls of the image on this page. Tatiana practiced at Chanel under the supervision of Karl Lagerfeld and acquired the secrets of French master craftsmen. A year ago she opened a showroom on Place Vendôme and, as if that were not enough, she allocated part of the proceeds from the sale of her fringed earrings to UN Women France, with the aim of promoting gender equality and the emancipation of women. women. Cate Blanchett and Eva Longoria, who bought her jewelry, appreciate it. Federico Graglia

Tatiana Verstraeten. Copyright: gioiellis.com

High jewelery by Van Cleef & Arpels in exhibition at Tefaf

Published on March 7, 2020

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Bracciale, 1956. Platino, oro bianco, 3 smeraldi taglio quadrato per 13,20 carati, diamanti. Collezione Héritage

High jewelery is at home at Tefaf in Maastricht. And also this year Van Cleef & Arpels participates in the art and antiques fair (7-15 March). Tefaf is also an opportunity for the French Maison to show some historical pieces, as well as contemporary collections. After the exhibition held at the Palazzo Reale, in Milan, it is another opportunity to admire the stylistic richness of Van Cleef & Arpels and the excellence of its high jewelery.

Borsetta da sera, 1964 Oro giallo, platino, smeraldi, rubini, specchio interno. Collezione Héritage — Borsetta da sera, 1964
Oro giallo, platino, smeraldi, rubini, specchio interno. Collezione Héritage

For example, Tefaf exhibits pieces from the historic Héritage collection, which brings together historic creations of high jewelery, fine jewelry and objects made by Van Cleef & Arpels between the 1920s and the 1990s. Each specimen has been the subject of careful archival research in order to reconstruct its history and certify its authenticity. And not just jewelry in the traditional sense of the term, as evidenced by an evening handbag from 1964.

Clip Noeud, circa 1925. Platino, oro bianco, diamanti. Collezione Héritage

Or, among the historical pieces, the clip Noeud, an interweaving of ribbons interpreted, in particular, during the so-called white period of the Art Deco, with creations in platinum and diamonds. Dated around 1925, this clip testifies to a type of cockade bow that, in the context of the production of Van Cleef & Arpels of the time, alongside the horizontal ribbons (called simple) or others more geometric. The clip has been designed to be worn vertically and is studded with 261 round cut diamonds and 28 baguette cut diamonds that punctuate the composition.

Collana Zip Antique Orient, trasformabile in bracciale. Oro rosa, corallo, perle bianche di coltura, diamanti

Bracciale Damita. Oro bianco, smeraldi, diamanti

Clip ballerina Pink finch. Oro bianco, oro rosa, zaffiri rosa, diamanti 6 — Clip ballerina Pink finch. Oro bianco, oro rosa, zaffiri rosa, diamanti

Reza al Tefaf’s jewels

Published on October 15, 2019

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Orecchini con diamanti classe D per 47,3 carati su platino

Maison Reza’s fine jewelery arrives at Tefaf in New York ♦

It is not uncommon for jewelers to have lives or adventurous stories behind them. This is especially true for the great jewelery makers from the East or the Middle East. And it is also the case of Alexandre Reza, who died in Paris in 2016 at 94, but with a story worthy of a novel. Suffice it to say that he was considered the greatest collector of gems of modern times, before becoming a jeweler. And from 1 to 5 November the jewels of the Maison that he founded can be seen at the New York edition of Tefaf, the great exhibition dedicated to objects of art, antiquities and luxury and collectible jewels. Today the Maison is run by the founder’s son, Olivier, at the Place Vendôme site.

Anello Troïdia (a tre lati) con rubino non trattato Est Africa di 8,48 carati, diamanti

Alexandre Reza was born in 1922 in Moscow, son of a jeweler. Like other Russian families, after the October Revolution the Rezas moved to France, first to Nice and then to Paris. He began his career as a diamond expert, traveling a lot to find every stone. Alexandre Reza has also supplied gems to jewelry brands such as Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, Harry Winston, Louis Gérard and Van Cleef & Arpels. And as has happened to many other merchants and gemstone experts, at one point he decided to turn himself into a jeweler. But of gram class: only high jewelry with rare diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. According to the Sotheby’s auction house, “movement, lightness, composition and harmony are the key words of his works”.

Orecchini Crescent, con due diamanti taglio princess per 8,27 carati e 204 taglio brillante per 9 carati

But mishaps were not missed: in 1994 armed thieves stole gems worth about $ 21 million in the jeweler’s salon in Paris. On the other hand, in May 2010 Sotheby’s sold a fancy 5.02 carat blue fancy diamond set in a toi-et-moi ring next to a 5.42-carat white diamond of 6.3 million dollars, setting a record price for a jewel of Reza. Margherita Donato

Bracciale Dune con madreperla e 72 diamanti

Orecchini con zaffiri birmani taglio pera di 18,5 e 20 carati

Orecchini con 16 rubini del Mozambico per 36,6 carati e 24 diamanti taglio marquise per 33 carati

Anello Tour Rectangle, diamante di 2,59 carati, rubini per 3 carati e 118 brillanti

Anello con zaffiro a taglio turbante di 6,68 carati su platino

Hemmerle’s new extraordinary creations

Published on March 31, 2019

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Hemmerle, orecchini in alluminio anodizzato con cavità in cui sono inserite acquamarine

The extraordinary creations of Hemmerle, queen of high jewelry design ♦ ︎

It is not a case when a marriage lasts 22 years. And if, more, the union is not conditioned by juridical or religious ties, the marriage is even more valid. Indeed, it is no coincidence that the German Maison Hemmerle has been present for 22 years at the Tefaf in Maastricht, a refined appointment for those who love antiquity but, more generally, art. Here only a few jewelers arrive, only those who make their production a work that is on a par with a painting or a sculpture. And Hemmerle is one of them.

The Munich jeweler is an extraordinary creator of refined unique pieces.

Born 126 years ago, Hemmerle is still managed by the family, in particular by Christian Hemmerle, and produces around 200 pieces a year. Unique pieces not only for the style, but also for the use of surprising materials and cutting-edge manufacturing. For example, aluminum. Thanks to an anodizing process, Hemmerle creates an aluminum with shades that recall the colors found in nature in precious stones. The earrings presented at Tefaf that look like small blue asteroids, for example, were made of anodized aluminum and aquamarine.

Orecchini ispirati al pittore svizzero Paul Klee. Argento annerito, filo in oro, diamanti — Orecchini ispirati al pittore svizzero Paul Klee. Argento annerito, filo in oro bianco, diamanti

But Hemmerle also manages to ennoble silver, perhaps in alloy with other metals to make it unrecognizable. At Tefaf, for example, the brand presented two blackened silver earrings inspired by a 1927 painting by Paul Klee, Schwarzer Fürst, with a stylized face in which the eye is a diamond. But it makes jewels also with titanium, a light and sturdy metal, but difficult to work with: is one of the Maison’s favorite materials. Truly a unique case in the world of jewelry. Alessia Mongrando

Orecchini di giada su argento annerito e oro

Orecchini in bronzo, oro bianco e diamanti

Anello in alluminio, oro bianco e tsavorite

Anello in bronzo, oro bianco e diamante brown

The new jewels of Tefaf

Published on March 10, 2019

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Wallace Chan, collana Wheel of Time, con perle del Mare del Sud, diamanti gialli, zaffiri, diamanti bianchi e titanio

The sophisticated jewels of Maastricht’s Tefaf are back, from Wallace Chan to Hemmerle ♦ ︎

Tefaf is back (Maastricht, March 16-24), a fun fair for art lovers, antiques and even jewels. And of the 279 exhibitors participating in Tefaf Maastricht 2019, 40 are new. Here, in any case, are showed only ancient and valuable jewels, or contemporary, but signed by prestigious designers that is better defined as artists. A new entry, for example, is that of Cindy Chao, of which we have already written.

Read also: Cindy Chao’s jewels at Tefaf

Another great oriental master will also be present: Wallace Chan. His jewelry-sculpture are pieces sought after by collectors and almost always leave open-mouthed. Chan is a master sculptor and jeweler from Hong Kong, who started working in a gemstone workshop in 1974 and is now a jewelry deity. Suffice it to say that he invented a particular method of working, the Wallace Cut: a carving system of stones that creates figures, for example a face, inside the stone itself. Another of Wallace Chan’s prerogatives is its ability to work with titanium, a lightweight material, but very difficult to use. Yet the Chinese master manages to shape the titanium like a silver leaf. And it’s not over: a couple of years ago announced the creation of Wallace Chan Porcelain, a ceramic five times stronger than steel, which can be modeled in a wide range of colors and shapes. In short, a kind of Leonardo da Vinci of jewelery.
Next to his jewels you will find, as always, those of another innovative Maison, Hemmerle, which combines refined and rare pearls, green diamonds, gold and platinum to materials such as iron, aluminum or copper, in a simple and refined design. Exactly the opposite of Chan, but equally stimulating. Federico Graglia

Wallace Chan, Parure Eyes of Infinity, con alessandrite, occhio di gatto, rubini, granati demantoidi, zaffiri gialli, diamanti fancy

Wallace Chan, spilla Bellezza celeste, in titanio, zaffiri

Hemmerle, anello in alluminio con tanzanite

Hemmerle, anello in bronzo e oro bianco con diamante fancy

Cindy Chao’s jewels at Tefaf

Published on February 13, 2019

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Spilla Greenovia, con crisoberillo occhio di gatto da 105 carati, titanio, oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, argento, diamanti, smeraldi, granato demantoide, tsavorite, alessandrite e zaffiro verde

High jewelery: Cindy Chao debuts at Tefaf with the new masterpieces Blacklabel ♦ ︎

A titanium brooch, with 1,369 diamonds, 705 tsavorites, 450 yellow diamonds, 28 cabochon emeralds and two larger emeralds for a total of 52.44 carats. These stones are mounted so that the jewel can also move. The Flower Bud brooch is the masterwork, among other masterwork, of the Black Label Masterpiece, which at the haute couture week in Paris celebrated the birthday number 15 of Cindy Chao The Art Jewel.

The designer born in Taiwan, in fact, has climbed the top positions in the world of high jewelery in a relatively short time. Her jewels are already legend. Like the red peony shape brooch with 2485 rubies and 668 diamonds on purple titanium and yellow and white gold. It took more than 10,000 hours of work to produce it. Perhaps it’s more serene thanks to the yoga lessons that the designer organized twice a week with her team, to ease the pressure of work. The next appointment, in fact, is challenging: the debut at the Tefaf in Maastricht, a particularly selective fair.

Spilla Peonia, vincitrice dell'Outstandg Objects Award alla Masterpiece Fair del 2018, a Londra — Spilla Peonia, vincitrice dell’Outstandg Objects Award alla Masterpiece Fair del 2018, a Londra

But pieces like the Greenovia brooch, designed around a 105-carat cat’s eye chrysoberyl, titanium, 18-carat white and gold, silver, diamonds, emeralds, demantoid garnet, tsavorite, alexandrite and green sapphire, can satisfy even the most demanding fond of high jewelry. And of art, of course. Giulia Netrese

The jewels of Tefaf in New York

Published on October 23, 2018

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Spilla a forma di salamandra di epoca vittoriana, in oro, diamanti, granato demantoide

The Tefaf returns to New York for the Fall with so many exceptional jewels ♦ ︎

The Tefaf is back in New York, the great event dedicated to design, antiques and precious objects, like jewels. Born in Maastricht, the fair has long since expanded its appointments with two events in the American city, in spring and autumn (October 27-31 in 2018). The reason is clear: New York offers the ideal setting in America for a fair like Tefaf, which remains the benchmark for the European market. In short, it is a point of arrival for traders and lovers of beauty, from painting (with works until 1920) to jewelry, but in this case it is not only vintage.

At Tefaf in New York there are pieces of Maison like Cartier, Otto Jakob, Hemmerle or designers like Suzanne Belperron and René Lalique.

Bracciale art déco in platino con diamanti, smeraldi, zaffiri, rubini, smalto

In addition to the commercial aspect, cultural events are also scheduled at Tefaf, such as a conference on Sunday, October 28th, which focuses on Men and Jewelry: does an earring have gender? Why, in short, are the jewels in the West seen so often as a feminine art form? Meanwhile, the Metropolitan Museum prepares an exhibition entitled Jewelry: The Body Transformed. In short, for those who happen in New York it is an opportunity to consider the jewels also from a cultural point of view. Margherita Donato

Collana di René Lalique in argento dorato, oro, vetro e oro smaltato

Hemmerle, anello in argento, oro bianco e diamanti

Cartier, orecchini in corallo, diamanti, platino

Spilla Fiore di Suzanne Belperron, in calcedonio, diamanti, zaffiri su oro bianco

Orecchini a grappolo di Cartier con turchesi e diamanti

Orecchini pendenti con diamanti e smeraldi colombiani

May’s Tefaf jewels

Published on April 10, 2018

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Suzanne Belperron, orecchini in platino con perle e diamanti, anni Cinquanta

Suzanne Belperron and Taffin protagonists of the spring edition of Tefaf in New York ♦ ︎
Founded in fairly recent times, in 1988, Tefaf is considered the world’s leading organization of art, antiques and design. It is a high level fair, with exceptional pieces. Also of jewels. But over time, Tefaf has multiplied by three: in Maastricht it covers 7,000 years of art history; New York Spring focuses on art and modern and contemporary design and New York Fall covers decorative and refined art from antiquity to the 1920s. To a certain extent, jewels never fail in any of these manifestations, even though the greatest quantity of pieces can be found at the Maastricht appointment in March.
Now, however, it is time of New York (4-8 May 2018). Also in this case there are interesting pieces. With two authors, in particular: Suzanne Belperon and James Claude Taffin de Givenchy, founder of the Taffin brand. Among the first, the catalog includes pieces with a collar-shaped collar in gold, 40 centimeters, from 1940, but also a geometric ring in silver and hematite of the ’30s, or a pair of clip-on earrings with pearls, platinum and diamonds. Of Taffin, a rose gold ring with garnet and ceramic, a brooch with spessartite cabochon and two earrings with diamonds in gold, ceramic and rose gold. In short, among many paintings, sculptures and antique furniture there is no shortage of jewelry to see. Federico Graglia

Bracciale art déco con corallo, onice e madreperla

Suzanne Belperron, collana in oro e diamanti, circa 1940

Reza, anello Swing, in oro giallo e bianco con diamanti

Taffin, orecchini asimmetrici con diamanti brown, ceramica e oro rosa

Taffin, spilla con spessartite cabochon, zaffiri birmani, argento ossidato, oro bianco e rosa

Taffin, anello in oro rosa con ceramica bianca e granato Malaya

Suzanne Belperron, anello geometrico in argento e ematite, anni Trenta

Cartier, collana revival antico Egitto. Realizzata con una placca di lapislazzuli scolpita, turchesi a forma di navette, all'interno di una cornice di diamanti a taglio circolare e smeraldi con taglio a calibro, diamanti — Cartier, collana revival antico Egitto. Realizzata con una placca di lapislazzuli scolpita, turchesi a forma di navette, all’interno di una cornice di diamanti a taglio circolare e smeraldi con taglio a calibro, diamanti

Collana di perle naturali grigie e diamanti

This necklace has bewitched the Tefaf

Published on March 17, 2018

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Collana di Maubussin con rubini e diamanti

A necklace with ruby and diamonds of Maubussin: it’s been presented at Tefaf by SJ Phillips ♦ ︎
At Tefaf, the fair in Maastricht (Holland) dedicated to antiques and not only, among the many antique, vintage and contemporary jewels stood out some pieces by SJ Phillips. Starting from a three-row necklace of turquoise and lapis lazuli, with a pierced oval in the center and carved with a floral scroll pattern, mounted in gold. But the focus was also on a necklace, Indian inspired, designed and created by the French maison Mauboussin in Paris in 1930, with cabochon rubies, square diamonds, circular and baguette cut, mounted on platinum. According to jewelry historians, in the Thirties Mauboussin was considered the most fashionable Maison. And between 1928 and 1931 in his store on Rue de Choiseul, in Paris, he hosted three special exhibitions, each dedicated to a precious stone: emerald, ruby (as in the case of the necklace) and diamond. For the record: the necklace has been put on sale for 5.5 million dollars.
Sj Phillips is a company specializing in exceptional antique jewelry based in London. And at Tefaf also showed other, like a necklace that is dated even 1770. The style is rococo. It is composed of a cross, with asymmetrical floral motifs and combines the religious symbol with an interest in science, especially botany, which at that time was a new field of study thanks to the Swedish scholar Linnaeus. Federico Graglia

Collana art déco con turchesi e lapislazzuli

Pendente a croce e motivi floreali, stile rococo

Spilla Ottocento con diamanti, rubini, smeraldi, zaffiri — SJ Phillips, spilla Ottocento con diamanti, rubini, smeraldi, zaffiri

Anello art déco con tre rubini e diamanti baguette

Orecchini a forma di fiore, zaffiri e diamanti, anni Sessanta

The jewels of Tefaf

Published on March 11, 2018

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Girocollo Glycines di Philippe Wolfers, Art Nouveau. Oro, tormalina intagliata, opale intagliato, rubini, granato

The jewels return to the Tefaf of Maastricht. Here are some of the most interesting pieces ♦ ︎
Tefaf is back (Maastricht, 10-18 March). Founded in 1988, the Dutch city fair is considered the world’s premier appointment for art, antiques, design and special jewelery. Although it has recently multiplied with two events in spring and autumn in New York, the original Tefaf in Maastricht is still the most awaited event. Managed as a non-profit foundation, Tefaf boasts a tradition of masterpieces in every category of art, design and antiques, but also of Haute Joaillerie. And even this year the strong pieces of jewelry are not lacking. You can find very different jewels, from a gold pendant, emeralds and enamel made in Spain in the eighteenth century, to a ring by the Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro, or the bracelet with matching ring of Cartier in 18k yellow gold, amethyst and turquoise , dated between 1966 and 1969. But there is no shortage of contemporary jewels, such as earrings with smoky quartz, brown diamonds, bronze and white gold from Hemmerle. It’s also by the refined German Maison is the Harmony bracelet with aquamarine, aluminum and white gold with a diameter of about 8 centimeters, another piece of great design.
Among other things, more in general, Tefaf boasts a great deal of control over the quality, authenticity and condition of the objects proposed: an aspect not to be underestimated when buying vintage pieces. Federico Graglia

Hemmerle, bracciale Harmony con acquamarina, alluminio e oro bianco

Hemmerle, orecchini con quarzo fumé, diamanti brown e oro bianco

Hemmerle, spilla con zaffiro, ferro e oro bianco

Hemmerle, anello in rame, oro bianco e zaffiro

Arnaldo Pomodoro, anello in oro bianco e giallo, con una sfera traforata

Cartier, bracciale e anello in oro giallo 18 carati, ametista, turchese (1966-1969)

Oro smeraldi e smalto 6 x 45 cm 2.4 x 1.8 in — Spilla spagnola del Settecento in oro, smeraldi e smalto

Spilla Calabrone firmata Fabergé con diamanti, rubini e perle

Wallace Chan returns to the Tefaf

Published on February 26, 2018

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Wallace Chan, anello Onde. Diamanti e titanio

Wallace Chan returns to Maastricht’s Tefaf with some pieces out of the ordinary ♦ ︎
At the Tefaf in Maastricht (March 10th-18th, 2018) there are several names of jewelery designer in the catalog. And not just vintage jewelry by great Maison, like Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels, but also from contemporary designers. In addition to Hemmerle, for example, the master Wallace Chan also returns to the great Dutch art fair, antiques and design.
Read also: The jewels of Tefaf
Wallace Chan is a legend in the world of jewelry and more. Born in a poor family in Fuzhou in 1956 and moved to Hong Kong at the age of five. After a long apprenticeship, in 1987, he devised a method for sculpting figures inside a stone. The technique uses carvings as in cameos to create an image that is then reflected within the gem and creates a three-dimensional effect. As in the jadeite in the shape of a horse’s head, with white diamonds, yellow pink and brown, crystal, tsavorite garnet, on titanium: a piece not to be missed and which you see photographed on this page.
At Tefaf, in any case there are other pieces of unusual jewelry, such as the necklace with citrine signed Andrew Grima, or the ring with the Cassiopea diamond of 4 carats, part of the collection of Amy Burton. Federico Graglia

Wallace Chan, spilla Una storia d'amore. Giadeite a forma di testa di cavallo, diamante, diamante rosa, giadeite, cristallo, diamanti yellow e brown, granato tsavorite, titanio — Wallace Chan, spilla Una storia d’amore. Giadeite a forma di testa di cavallo, diamante, diamante rosa, giadeite, cristallo, diamanti yellow e brown, granato tsavorite, titanio

Anello con diamante Cassiopea, 4,07 carati, collezione di Amy Burton — Cassiopeia Unum ring, 4,07 carat, Amy Burton

Bracciale in oro e corniola, Londra 1962

Collana con citrini e diamanti di Andrew Grima, 1974

Glenn Spiro, anello con diamante taglio marquise su oro rosso e bronzo, 1962

Orecchini Tourbillon di Van Cleef & Arpels in oro bianco e diamanti

Pendente o spilla di Karel Appel, oro giallo, diamanti e smalto

Spillaa forma di gufo di L. Gautrait, in oro, berillo dorato, smalto e diamante, circa 1900

Collana art déco Marchak, con turchesi e lapislazzuli intagliato. Circa 1930

Spilla art déco di Cartier, in platino, diamanti e ametiste

Van Cleef & Arpels, clip in oro rosa, spinelli, diamanti

Cartier at Tefaf

Published on October 29, 2017

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Bracciale di Cartier in corallo, smeraldi, diamanti, a forma di due chimere

Cartier at Tefaf in New York, exceptional pieces with an extraordinary story ♦ ︎
At the Tefaf Autumn Edition, in the second time in New York, the catalog has shown several pieces of Cartier that you can see with a special attention. It is, in fact, jewels (plus a box) that stand out for history and artistic quality. This is the case, for example, of a bracelet that is inspired by two carved, coral carved chimera with round and oval cabochon emeralds and square, round and circular diamonds, round yellow gold hinges. Each one opens in the opposite direction. The jewel remembers the shape of the ancient bracelets with animal heads found by archaeologists: they were used mainly by Middle Eastern and Mediterranean civilizations, from Assyria to Greece. The Cartier bracelet is mounted on platinum and yellow gold. It also has a story that is worth telling.
The Duchess of Windsor
In 1923, Louis Cartier created a clasp with a chimera head (head of a lion, body of a goat and dragon tail) carved in coral, diamonds and emeralds with gold and platinum. It was the first Art Deco chimera: it would become an iconic form of Cartier. The chimera is also a symbol of longevity and success. Cartier has created several chimera-shaped bracelets from 1927 to 1929. In 1933 Jeanne Toussaint assumed the post of director of the luxury jewelery department. At the end of the 1940s the figure of the chimera came back to the fore when the Duchess of Windsor bought a pink coral bracelet very similar to that exposed to Tefaf. Jeanne Toussaint then modernized the design with decorative motifs of Indian inspiration, and with diamonds and emeralds. Federico Graglia

Bracciale di Cartier, oro, lacca nera, diamanti. Circa 1930

Bracciale di Cartier in stile indiano, oro e diamanti. Circa 1939

Collana di Suzanne Belperron, con pietre colorate stile Cartier

Box composto da pannelli fossili di Orthoceras, antico cefalopode simile al calamaro, cinghie di argento sterling lucido e piedini in argento. Circa 1925

Wonders at Tefaf

Published on October 26, 2017

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Wallace Chan, orecchini in titanio con diamanti bianchi e gisalli, tsaforiti, granati, smeraldi

At Tefaf in New York the wonders of jewelery from yesterday and today ♦ ︎
Successful things are replicating. For example, fairs such as Tefaf, an institution founded in 1988 in Maastricht, Netherlands, and soon became the most renowned Art and Antique Fair in Europe. And, last year, also in America, with the New York Autumn Edition, at Park Avenue Armory. In 2017 there is the second test of relocating Tefaf in the States (from 28 October to 1 November). As with the Maastricht edition, most of the pieces exhibited include works of art, antique furniture, and antique furniture. But there are also old and modern jewels, all of the highest quality.
For example, Siegelson presents Cartier art pieces and signed by Suzanne Belperron. But, like in the European edition, there are also today’s designers, such as German Hemmerle, or the Chinese jeweler-artist Wallace Chan, who, alongside a high technical virtuosity design, also uses patented systems to work with titanium. Among the exhibited works, for example, there are the Wonders of Life earrings, which recall a flower blooming by a pine, with roots made of diamonds and emeralds. A green light shines from the bulb made up of purple titanium cheeks, while pink sapphires link the stem of the plant to a white diamond flower. Federico Graglia

Otto Jakob, orecchini in oro giallo parzialmente ossidato

Wallace Chan, orecchini in titanio con diamanti bianchi e gialli, tsavoriti, granati, smeraldi

Wallace Chan, anello in titanio con rubino a forma di esagono e zaffiri rosa

Van Cleef & Arpels, spilla e orecchini in platino, diamanti e zaffiri

Hemmerle, orecchini in oro bianco con argento e peridoti

Hemmerle, anello in bronzo e oro bianco con zaffiro gialli

Hemmerle, orecchini in bronzo e oro con zaffiri gialli

Hemmerle, orecchini con giada, diamanti, argento, oro bianco

Castellani, collana in oro, perle e rubini. Roma, 1880

Masterpiece of jewelery in London

Published on June 23, 2017

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Wallache Chan, Damask Silk. Diamanti trillion, tormalina rosa, diamanti fancy, zaffiro rosa, agata bianca

Back to Masterpiece London, art, antiques, but also many jewelries ♦ ︎
Masterpiece London (June 29 – July 5) is one of the highlights for those who love art and antiques. And the jewels. The fair brings together 150 of the best galleries and specialists around the world, and attracts 40,000 visitors on average. As mentioned, there are also jewels and jewelers, with pieces of antiquity, but also new creations. There are Maison like Grima and Hammerle who choose to be present only here in London and Tefaf. From Wallace Chan to Van Cleef & Arpels, from Boghossian to Cartier, Boucheron, Jar and Fabergé, you can find the most interesting pieces with Wartski, Symbolic & Chase, Verdura, Hancocks and SJ Phillips. As always, there there is jewelery created by painters and sculptors, such as Calder, or jewelry that can represent a bridge between different disciplines, such as those of Theo Fennell. Here are some of the most interesting pieces that are present in the exhibition catalog. Federico Graglia

Spilla del 19esimo secolo a forma di ape, con topazi o rosa, diamanti e smeraldi

Bracciale di Louis Osman in argento e turchese, 1968

Bracciale di Boghossian con diamanti e perle

Bracciale di Cartier a forma di due tigri

Collier in oro e diamanti, Afro Basaldella, 1955

Bracciale in platino con diamanti e rubini attribuito a Ruser, 1940

Orecchini in oro, diamanti e granati, firmati Grima

Van Cleef & Arpels, bracciale e clip in oro e diamanti, 1935

Wallache Chan, Bliss and Peace, collana. Una boccetta da fiuto imperiale dal periodo Daoguang (1821-1850) della dinastia Qing si trasforma in un vettore di buon auspicio

Who’s in Tefaf in New York

Published on May 3, 2017

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Spilla di Bulgari a forma di libellula. Diamanti colorati per 16,30 carati. Circa 1960

The Tefaf edition in New York houses jewels and jewelers of great value, from Jar to Reza ♦
Back to Tefaf, the most important art and jewelry market. Obviously this is not the original edition, which takes place in Maastricht, but of the one in New York. The Tefaf New York Springtime takes place from May 4 to 8, 2017 and is held in the historic Armory Park Avenue. As mentioned, there are jewels, moderns or antiques, but all of exceptional value. There will be, for example, exclusive pieces of Jar, sought after by collectors. It’s no coincidence that some opening hours are reserved for VIPs. But also of Bulgari. And you will also find jewelery designed by artists of the artefact or sculpture, like Max Ernst, Giò Pomodoro and Louise Nevelson. Straight from Place Vendôme is another famous jeweler, Reza. Here are the useful info.
Tefaf New York
Park Avenue Armory
643 Park Avenue
Wednesday, May 3
Noon – 08:00 (Vip only)
Please note: Due to limited capacity at Park Avenue Armory, only Vip Tefaf cards are valid for entry during the Vip Preview on May 3rd.
Thursday, May 4th
11am – noon (Vip only)
Noon – 08:00
Friday, May 5th
11am – noon (Vip only)
Noon – 08:00
Saturday, May 6th
11am – noon (Vip only)
Noon – 08:00
Sunday, May 7th
11am – noon (Vip only)
Noon – 08:00
Monday, May 8th
11am – noon (Vip only)
Noon – 18:00

Spilla Butterfly, in oro e diamanti, Inghilterra, circa1870

The Hamster Diamond, anello dalla storia avventurosa, circa 1910

Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti, circa 1870

Anello con smeraldo da 13,11 carati, circa 1930

Fibula brooch firmata Jar. Tormalina, granato, diamanti. Circa 1993

Getulio Alviani, orecchino composto da un disco di alluminio. Roma, 1968

Reza, orecchini con 4 smeraldi pan d -zucchero di 15,96 carati e 632 diamanti del peso di 11,67 carati su oro bianco. Possono essere ndossati come orecchini o come spilla

Giò Pomodoro , collana in oro giallo 24 carati, oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, smeraldi

Hemmerle still amazes

Published on March 20, 2017

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Orecchini in rame, oro bianco, smalto, zaffiri, zirconi

Hemmerle still amazes at Tefaf: the refined combinations of Egyptian earrings, bracelets, aluminum and precious stones.
Innovation, courage, imagination. What other definition is lacking to describe Hemmerle? Paradoxically a: tradition. It sounds really strange that one of the maison’s creative Maison in the world, to the limits of recklessness, is also the fruit of a centuries-old history. Hemmerle was born in Monaco of Bavaria in 1893. In this year Japan decided to adopt the Gregorian calendar, Rudolf Diesel patented the type of engine that bears his name, and died the writer Guy de Maupassant. In short, in another era.

Two years later the company was already working for Ludwig III of Bavaria, and the imprinting of working on unique pieces, imaginative, unusual, is perhaps the feature that has preserved better. The descendant of the race of goldsmiths elite, Christian Hemmerle, now leads with his wife Yasmin the company famous for its refined creations, such as those who showed during the Tefaf in Maastricht (in a stand designed by the Dutch architect Tom Postma). It’s high jewelry, unusual, where wonderful sapphires can be mounted on an aluminum set, a brown diamond is accompanied with the humble copper, or with earrings in ancient Egyptian style. Giulia Netrese

Orecchini in alluminio, ametista e zaffiro

Orecchini in oro bianco, alluminio, argento, acquamarina

Orecchini in rame, oro bianco, zaffiri e tormalina

Hemmerle, bracciale con acquamrina e zaffiri

Orecchini con micro mosaico di rame, oro rosa, zaffiri

Orecchini in oro bianco, zaffiri, demantoidi, zirconi